iMac Intel 21,5" EMC 2389 CPU austauschen

Geschrieben von: Andrew Bookholt

Kommentare: 117

iMac Intel 21,5" EMC 2389 CPU austauschen

Schwierigkeitsgrad

Schwierig

Schritte

Zeitaufwand

3 - 4 Stunden

Einleitung

Diese Anleitung zeigt dir, wie du die CPU austauschen kannst.

Werkzeuge

Ersatzteile

Intel i3-540 Desktop CPU

Schritt 1

Ziehe den Netzstecker am iMac und allen sonstigen Peripheriegeräten.
Lege deinen iMac mit der Scheibe nach unten auf eine saubere weiche Oberfläche.
Achte darauf, dass keinerlei Verunreinigungen auf der Oberfläche sind, die die Scheibe verkratzen oder beschädigen können. Am besten legst du ein sauberes weiches Tuch auf die Oberfläche.
Die Klappe ist mit drei Kreuzschlitzschrauben an der Unterseite des iMac befestigt. Drehe sie heraus.
Die Schrauben bleiben in der Klappe hängen.
Entferne die Klappe.

Before beginning unplug your iMac.

Henry Barnett -

The screws are not phillips #1 as implied above. My phillips#2 bit fit.

John McWilliams - 29/03/18

Yes phillips #2 is the correct Bit

Heath - 04/08/18

Whenever I go this “deep” into any computer that has a motherboard battery, like the CR2032 for this iMac, I’ll add a new battery to my workflow. I’m in the “neighborhood” anyway.

The battery is in a spring-loaded compartment, which requires patience and persistence.

I make sure to test the new battery before installation. (The “3-2-1 Rule” applies: 3 of something means 2, 2 means 1, and 1 means none - I keep spare batteries on hand.)

When I took part in my dual-drive adventure, I also added a thorough dusting (outside/outdoors) - phew!

Carrick - 28/03/21

Schritt 2

Ziehe vorsichtig die schwarze Plastiklasche zum Entfernen der RAM aus dem RAM-Slot.
Zieh die schwarze Plastiklasche von der unteren Kante des iMacs weg, um so das Modul/die Module auf dieser Seite des Ram-Gehäuses auszuwerfen.
Womöglich ist etwas Kraftanwendung erforderlich.

It is far harder than I thought you have to pull REALLY hard and then there will be a little click and than you can gently pull out the RAM.

Alison Newton -

Press really hard, to the point you think you’ll cut your thumb, you’ll hear a slight ‘click’. If it’s not properly installed, the iMac will ‘beep, beep, beep’ In protest upon booting…

Brian - 31/12/18

I found it best to make use of the factory ‘pull tabs’. Much much easier than trying to pull the ram out by hand. It may seem like a good idea but, don’t be tempted to use pliers.

Brian - 31/12/18

Just FYI you can install 32GB’s of RAM in this machine. I have been using it this way for over 2 years now.

Heath - 04/08/18

Thanks for your Useful guide …. iMac Intel 21.5" EMC 2428 RAM Replacement was performed step by step on my Imac and every thing is perfect right now.

Jaime Salazar - 08/01/19

I was able to remove one side of the ram, but the other side would not budge. I was afraid that I was going to rip the plastic tab out of the computer. Any suggestions?

Paula McCaulla - 16/07/20

Do you know if 3 ram modules installed would work ? or if it should only be 1, 2 or 4 ?

I currently have 2x2gb installed, but I only want to add 1x4gb to have 8gb in total.

Thanks!

Nikokow - 29/11/20

Only install 1, 2, or 4. And preferably with the same gb for each module.

Snuf Box -

Schritt 3

Zieh die alten RAM-Module aus den Slots im RAM-Gehäuse und leg sie auf die Seite.

would this be a good time to increase the size of the RAM too? Would it be as simple as slipping the new RAM in when redoing the steps? Thanks

timreespt - 23/08/19

Schritt 4

Wiederhole die vorherigen Schritte, um das/die RAM-Module von der anderen Seite des RAM-Gehäuses zu entfernen.

Schritt 5

Beim Installieren eines neues RAM-Moduls, ist wichtig, auf die richtige Einsetzrichtung zu achten.
Achte darauf, dass die kleine Kerbe in jedem RAM-Modul (siehe erstes Bild) auf die Erhebung im RAM-Slot (siehe zweites Bild) trifft.
Dein iMac hat vier RAM-Slots. Achte darauf, jedes RAM-Modul horizontal in seinen Slot zu schieben. Das verhindert, dass sich die Module zwischen zwei Slots verklemmen.
Nachdem du die neuen RAM-Module in die richtige Richtung ausgerichtet hast, schiebe sie vorsichtig ganz in den iMac und benutze deine Daumen, um sie sicher in ihren Platz zu fixieren.

When reinstalling RAM in this machine or any iMac with upgradable RAM slots push hard to get them to go in (Apple really did make this one harder than it needed to be). If you don't push hard it won't go in and your computer won't work. (trust me on this learned the hard way)

Robert Wacker -

I am having trouble with bottom 2 slots. As I get beeping sounds when using them. When removed it boots properly. I tried & tried to push the 2 , 2GB ram modules into the bottom slots BUT all get is beeping. Guess I have to settle for 4GB Rather than 8 unless someone has a suggestion.

Doug - 03/10/18

Try swapping the to the other slots & don’t forget to press really hard until you hear the ‘click’.

Brian - 31/12/18

Is there an expirience to settle 1600 MgH Ram instead 1333 MgH manual required?

Mikhail B. Bryanskiy - 13/04/19

The Memory Maxxer RAM upgrade kit for the iMac 12,1 EMC 2428 suggests the machine can run 32 gb but Apple’s website says it can run a maximum of 16 gb.

Are we sure 32 gb can run on this machine?

Paul

steedz - 27/04/20

Added 16GB for a total of 20GB, runs great, do make sure of the “click”, the beep is disturbing

Butt Muffins - 28/07/20

2x2 GB 1333 MHz RAM were installed as delivered. I couldn’t manage to get those two out of their slots. I don’t want to damage anything. So, I put 2x8 GB RAM 1333 MHz RAM bars in the other two empty spare slots to have 20 GB RAM in total. The iMac runs fine with it. As described above, make sure to push RAM until they ‘click’ in completely.

Matthias Brandl - 16/02/21

Why are we taking out the RAM modules just to put them back in on the next step ?

Jesse Fenton - 04/05/21

Why do we need the spudger?

Ross - 07/05/21

Schritt 6

Ziehe den Stecker, bevor du anfängst. Lege den iMac auf eine weiche Oberfläche, so wie gezeigt.
Befestige einen Saugnapf in jeder der oberen Ecken der Scheibe.
Um die Saugnäpfe, die wir verkaufen, anzubringen, musst du erst den Saugnapf mit dem beweglichen Griff parallel zur Scheibe aufsetzen. Halte den Saugnapf gegen die Scheibe und klappe den Griff hoch, bis er parallel mit dem anderen ist.
Wenn der Saugnapf sich nicht festsaugt, dann versuche die Scheibe und den Saugnapf mit einem milden Reinigungsmittel zu säubern.

Very easy to lift the glass out. Don't jerk too hard.

kctipton - 26/05/14

Another comment on DATA & LCD Temp. Sensor cables: I had to remove the vertical sync, and the backlight cable, however, if you have an assistant or/can carefully rotate the screen clockwise/and then have it held up about 5" to 6" at a slight angle, you do not need to remove LCD data cable or LCD thermal cable, however - IMPORTANT: you must have a second pair of hands/or way to securely prop up the LCD. Also, don't rotate too much, since then you will pull out LCD data cable, and it renders the whole exercise moot, or can damage the cable or connector.

MaximBorzov - 22/08/14

You don't need suction cups. The screen, held by magnets, can simply be pried off using a very thin blade such as a screw driver and fingers.

Deepsurvival - 13/01/15

That's a bad idea. using a metal tool to pry off glass is likely to end with an expensive broken front glass.

Suction cups are common. Find a couple and do it the safe way. I use some cheap ones that came with iPhone repair kit.

max damage - 19/12/15

No need for suction cups, I just stuck my nails (short like guys usually have) between the top part of the screen and body, and it came off easily. I've never done it before, so it seems to be very easy.

Nikolas Lintulaakso - 18/03/17

Nails worked for me too

Rob Dale - 14/04/17

Just completed the replacement of the optical drive with an SSD using an OWC Data Doubler kit. Attempted to remove the optical drive without disconnecting any cables but found it a bit fiddly to orient the screen for good access. I bit the bullet and disconnected them and found the process less daunting than I imagined. Reconnecting them was similarly straightforward if you're careful.

Tip: you can skip the step for removing the optical drive thermal sensor connector from the motherboard. Still need to remove the sensor from the optical drive but you can leave that hanging and reattach it to the SSD later.

osienna - 20/06/17

I use Garmin GPS suction cup. Work very well

jc3Dcx - 14/03/18

I’ve just successfully installed a 1TB SSD in place of my optical drive thanks to the information here- thank you to everyone who has contributed!

3 comments- the procedure described here seems to vary between HD replacement and dual HD/optical drive replacement. This can be confusing at times.

Expect there to be minor differences between the layout described and what you find when you open up your iMac. There are also, surprisingly, differences between the HD enclosure description, and the article provided by ifixit.

I was able to replace the DVD/HD enclosure single-handedly without fully removing the LCD, or deconnecting any of the cables (steps 5-11). It’s a bit cramped, and fiddly, but I was not happy removing any of the cables despite watching videos, etc., since they all seemed to involve applying more force than I was comfortable with. A more detailed description of how to release them might have helped, but even here, there may be minor variations even within the 2389 model.

Good luck!

ivan birks - 12/10/18

I did it several times with one suction cup at the end of a kitchen brush. Once with the blade of a swiss army knive, also ok. And i’m pretty sure it works with fingernails too

Tai - 27/03/19

Fingernails are all you need to free the glass from its magnetic hold. If you don’t have them, slip something thin and plastic, like a spudger, at a top corner.

Max Powers - 09/04/19

Minha dúvida é a seguinte: após o técnico trocar o HD do meu iMac de 21,5 polegadas, a câmera parou de funcionar. Seria por causa da troca do HD? Tem solução?

Claudio - 09/06/19

Creio que o cabo da camera não foi plugado ou deu mau contato… ou até danificado.

glecyo@gmail.com

glecyo medeiros - 09/09/19

I can’t get my glass to budge. I’m replacing a cracked one and now it’s about to shatter.

jamboxmitchell - 20/07/19

I know that I'm replying really late but I advise to use clear tape over any cracks so the cracks don't get bigger

Jace Holmes -

Check for chips in the glass BEFORE you do this step. If there is a chip when you pull up with the suction cups you will wind up with a jagged mess. If you do have a chip I would advise covering the screen near the chip with clear tape of some kind before lifting out. Mine shattered right at the chip and the resulting glass dust cloud got all over. My solution was buying a new glass screen.

BCam - 10/03/21

Schritt 7

Hebe die Scheibe vorsichtig senkrecht zum LCD an, gerade soweit um die Metallstifte, die oben an der Unterseite der Scheibe angebracht sind zu befreien.
Ziehe die Scheibe von der Unterkante des iMac weg und lege sie sorgfältig zur Seite.
Achte beim Zusammenbau darauf, die Innenseite der Scheibe und das LCD peinlich genau zu reinigen. Jeglicher Staub und Fingerabdrücke werden sichtbar, sobald die Maschine eingeschaltet ist.

What's the best product to clean the face of the LCD?

Steve Speirs - 02/10/15

Microfiber Cloth

Leonardo Fournier - 11/07/16

Try your best not touch it in the first place

Brian - 31/12/18

Wearing Nitrile or regular surgical gloves helps prevent finger prints if you accidentally touch the glass.

amiller770 - 08/05/21

Schritt 8

Entferne die acht 8 mm Torx T10 Schrauben, die das Display am Gehäuse befestigen.
Die letzten beiden Bilder sind Detailansichten jeder Seite des Displays.

Replacing the screws , especially the two uppermost ones , is awkward due to the magnets attracting the screws off the Torx driver

Anoop Sahal - 19/11/16

I’ve done an HDD replacement on an A1174 (and I’m about to do this model), which is nightmarish, but by far the best solution I found was to use a bit of Blu Tack or the equivalent on the driver.

Boris - 07/01/18

I’ve just replaced the screws by making a little tube from paper and wrapping it round each screw to keep it contained. A cut-down straw would be perfect for job.

Guy Whittaker - 28/02/18

I second this but use a tube of cardboard instead, then its quite easy.

jeank75 - 24/02/21

Schritt 9

Hebe die Oberkante des Displays leicht aus dem Gehäuse.
Hebe es nicht zu weit heraus. Es ist noch mit verschiedenen Kabeln mit der Hauptplatine verbunden.

After sliding the display slightly towards the top edge, enough for the bottom edge to clear the retainers, an alternative is to raise the bottom edge out. Then unplug the LED backlight power cable (this step + 2), unplug the LCD thermal sensor cable (this step + 4), unplug the display data cable (this step + 3), and the display may be rotated over the top edge while leaving the vertical sync cable attached (this step + 1).

Jerry - 25/07/16

Schritt 10

Ziehe den Verbinder am Kabel der Vertikalsynchronisation aus seinem Sockel auf der Platine der LED Versorgung in der Nähe der oberen linken Ecke des iMac.

Do not try to pull the plug off the circuit board as it's soldered. Pull the cable sideways out of the socket.

Alex Campbell -

Skipped step 5-10. I used two 5-6" chopsticks to prop up the display, this gave me more than enough room to complete the rest of the steps. I only had to disconnect the 3 cables are directly connected to the hard drive. Replacing the Seagate hard drive with another Seagate hard drive eliminated any cable issues. Now I have 2TB SSDH

jaime martinez - 27/06/15

I was also able to skip steps 5 thru 10, which meant no messing with any cables except for the two for the HD (steps 13+14). Used a credit card to start the removal of glass panel (step 2) - much easier than I imagined. After removing display screws (step 3) I simply had a friend hold up the display's bottom edge as far as the cables would allow (careful not to stress at connection to logic board) and this provided enough room to remove the HD bracket screws (step 11), detach the HD cables, and remove the HD. Was replacing a failed 1TB Seagate with a 3TB Seagate so no problems with compatibility when reattaching the HD cables and everything worked fine when I restored the OS and data to the new HD. No fan issues. I did take great care to not get fingerprints on the inside of the glass panel and to blow off any dust specks before reinstalling it. It was a bit tricky to get the new HD back in without letting the magnets get a hold of it, so thanks for the warning posted here about that!

Chuckles McBunny - 20/01/16

On my mid 2010 Imac I found it was not necessary to disconnect any cables (except of course those attached to the drive). Simply angle the monitor away from the case to a safe distance without stressing any cables and secure with tape. With a stubby screw driver it was easy to access and remove the drive.

Michael Husselbee - 01/10/16

Skipped steps 6-10; did step 5 so could lift top of display higher, then propped up. A photo of whole interior here would help (hard disk is top center). Used pliers holding T10 bit at right angle to unscrew hard disk holder. SSD installed loose (macOS and fan control app already loaded).

David Menges - 18/05/20

Schritt 11

Drehe das Display soweit aus dem Gehäuse heraus, dass du das Versorgungskabel der LED Rückbeleuchtung von der LED Versorgungsplatine lösen kannst.
Um das Kabel zu lösen, musst du gleichzeitig die Sicherung am Stecker drücken und den Stecker weg vom Sockel ziehen. ( In Richtung Unterkante des iMac.)

This is real tricky it is fragile and you have to pull it along the logic board.

John - 22/02/18

First push down on the edge of the connector closest to bottom edge of the iMac. This unlatches the locking mechanism at the top edge of the connector. Then gently wiggle the connector away from its socket.

Oshoma Momoh -

Schritt 12

Das Displaydatenkabel hat einen Verschlussbügel aus Draht. Entriegele den Verschluss, indem du die Plastiklasche nach oben drehst. (Es ist keine Zuglasche)
Ziehe das Displaydatenkabel gerade aus dem Sockel auf dem Logic Board.
Der Sockel ist sehr empfindlich, ziehe das Kabel nicht nach oben. Ziehe parallel zur Oberfläche des Logic Boards.

This cable is very short, I would remove it before any of the others. First time I did this, I didn't realize this and this cable just popped out of it's socket. Luckily, the board wasn't damaged.

maccentric -

i damaged my (step7) cable, and my iMac screen won't work, how to fix this?

Ersan Rasubala -

I did the same thing. The pins are VERY easy to bend. I replaced it with a new cable from this company.

http://www.macpalace.com/922-9497-cable-...

Waiting for it to arrive.

Michael -

I wish this step was listed as a warning before lifting the monitor and as the first cable to undo. I broke it as it popped up and out, had to trash my Mac and I am stuck with a new hard drive.

Frank1701a - 14/11/14

I followed the directions to a T and everything worked going back together. That cable in step 7 is delicate so one must be very careful.

dustynnelson - 31/01/15

Same problem for me. I damaged this cable and am ordering one now.

This is a tough step so I would also suggest removing this cable first.

lyleberman - 25/04/15

Yes, damaged mine too. It is better to take it out of the LCD and install it carefully on the logic board, then install it to the LCD.

asle - 11/08/15

Ok finally got the cable and was able to successfully finish the project.

That video cable is ROUGH to install.

lyleberman - 08/05/15

The same thing happened for me. That cable was by far the shortest and a slight pull of the display up caused the connector to come free. Luckily it wasn't damaged by this. It was pretty unclear to me how that connector fit in as well. It slides in and out parallel to the surface of the mother board, up towards the top of the iMac to unplug and down towards the bottom to plug in. I agree, if I were to do this repair again that is the first interior cable I would disconnect. Maybe a closeup of the cable plugged in and unplugged to show exactly how it engages and disengages would be good as well.

danieljseta - 31/07/15

It is fine to remove the cable from the logic board when when you remove the screen. But when when assembling back together I found it better to take the LVDS cable out of the LCD and install it carefully on the logic board. Then connect it to the top of the LCD. Also the connector to the LCD is much more solid and not so easy to bend.

asle - 11/08/15

This is by far the best way round to do this as trying to refit the cable to the logic board is a complete nightmare.

Russ - 28/10/15

I agree with asle, manipulating the display end of the cable would be easier - at least it cannot be any harder then manipulating the motherboard end.

Jerry - 25/07/16

well I did all t these steps and now the iMac won't turn on at all. I guess the big cable is not connected to the board as it used to... Mac is out of warranty so it's going out the door. RIP

Gilbert Palau - 25/01/16

this thing is super fragile. i had to order a new one. i'd recommend removing the other end at the top of the display.

m Burm - 07/09/16

this part is not complicated if you understand at first how the lock works.. remove the lock is easy, reassemble the cable and connect it is very problematic because the space to work is very tiny, but if you are carefully, it should be not a problem . try to see some videos from youtube first!

Cristian Pizarro - 25/05/17

This totally blows.. If you want to do this correctly and not destroy your computer over this step, - OWC’s video will show you EXACTLy what to do with the display cable ..

https://www.youtube.com/watch?annotation...

Luis Garcia - 02/10/17

Don’t raise the display more than 3-4 inches. Pull the tape off the back of the display and unhook the cable from the display, instead of trying to remove it from the motherboard. As soon as I raised the display, the cable snapped loose. Ordered a new cable from Amazon. Am waiting to see if works ok.

john - 11/12/18

The worst thing about the whole tear-down procedure, was the display data ribbon cable in this step. As others have noted, It popped out of its socket on the mother board while disconnecting the lcd. I didn’t get a chance to see exactly how it connected on to the moboard . I damaged the dainty and minute ribbon end while trying to re-connect it to the wrong side of the receptacle. Duh! I feel so stupid. :(

I had to order a new ribbon cable ($14) . Luckily, i was able to plug new ribbon into the fragile moboard connector adequately, and then the lcd end, during re-assembly. This re-assembly step is made for a very small person with extremely small hands and big eyes (like someone out of Gulliver’s travels).

Dan Packard - 16/07/20

2010 iMac SSD kit from OWC. Their video does not adequately explain the difficulty of re-installing the display port ribbon cable into the logic board. The best procedure would be to follow asle (see prior comment 8/11/15). The problem is exasperated by the fact that the plug into the LCD is covered in tape.

Devere - 01/10/20

Why is this not step 5? By the time I lifted display, the cable had already come out. I think it damaged it.

Greg Cox - 07/04/21

Got VERY lucky with my SSD replacement. Just leaning the display back popped the cable off the logic board, and I had a very difficult time reinstalling the screen. It might be that the wire bail wasn’t secured in the first place, or the machine has been opened up prior to my obtaining it. I eventually used a parts box to rest the LCD high enough to reinstall the cable. Agree that this should be the first cable to be disconnected and last to be reconnected. Perhaps disconnecting it from the LCD should be considered as a first step?

phantom - 10/04/21

Schritt 13

Löse den Verbinder des Thermosensorkabels zum LCD aus seinem Sockel auf dem Logic Board.
Wenn der Ventilator nach dem Zusammenbau auf Höchstdrehzahl arbeitet, musst du die Orientierung an diesem Verbinder oder am Thermosensorkabel der Festplatte prüfen.

Be very careful - this connector very difficult to disconnect, and you have a high risk of pulling the cable pins out of the connect. If you have disconnected the 3 other cables, you can have a helper rotate the screen out of the way while you remove the hard drive.

Brian Tsai - 03/08/15

I found this connector impossible to remove

Anoop Sahal - 19/11/16

I also found this extremely difficult to remove. Tiny cable with a death grip. I tried using two spudgers, my fingernails, and walking it out. In the end, I used two spudgers and pried it up, using leverage from the clip to the right.

Also, i recommend setting the iMac upright for this. I rested the screen on my chest while I dual wielded my spudgers.

Alex Grayson - 05/09/17

eer ist zerbrochen! hoffe krieg ihn dann trotzdem wieder rein

Peter Pawlowicz - 28/12/17

This was connector was impossible to remove. Like a previous commenter, I did this with the machine upright and with the LCD Panel resting on my upper chest. Ultimately, the pins pulled out of the socket! Once they were out, it was relatively easy to remove the socket. I completed the drive replacement, (installed a 1 TB SSD) and then replaced the pins in the socket and reassembled the machine. One mental error I made was I couldn’t remember the correct orientation for the Black and White wires in the socket. In looking at the photos here on iFixIt, it looks like I reversed their orientation. However, the machine seems to be running fine. I installed macos High Sierra and migrated my data from my old HD and the machine has been running for two days now. I would hate to have to go back in and remove the socket and reverse the wire orientation. Anyone have advise on this?

jmaher - 04/02/18

In followup to my previous post, I launched TechTool Pro 9.6.1 and ran the Sensors Test. All Sensors tests were passed. These included:

LCD Proximity, LCD Thermal Compensation 2, LCD Proximity, Thermal Compensation. Machine seems to be running fine.

jmaher - 04/02/18

Schritt 14

Ziehe das Display vorsichtig in Richtung Oberkante des iMac und hebe es aus dem Gehäuse. Achte darauf, dass sich keine Kabel verfangen.

Schritt 15

Entferne folgende vier Torx Schrauben:
Eine 9,3 mm T10 Schraube mit breitem Kopf
Drei 9,3 mm T10 Schrauben mit normalen Köpfen

The 4 srews are equal

hybanibienen - 26/10/16

Schritt 16

Löse den Verbinder zum Thermosensor am optischen Laufwerk aus seinem Sockel auf dem Logic Board, indem du ihn in Richtung Oberkante des iMac ziehst.

No need to do this! Just gently pull up the felt-pad sticky on top of the thermal sensor (looks like a tiny circuit board), then (again gently) peel the thermal sensor off the ODD. Leave it hanging while you remove the ODD and replace it with the SSD, then just put the thermal sensor covered by the protective felt-pad back onto the SSD enclosure.

cdansmith1 - 12/08/14

I agree with cdansmith1, above.

I had removed the sensor completely. Booted up and the fan was like a jet engine - 4200rpm! I opened up the mac again to check the LCD thermal sensor cable was connected properly (as warned in Step 8). It was.

So, I simply used the spudger to peel off the felt sticky pad from and then the optical drive sensor too from the drive I'd taken out. Stuck the sensor onto the SSD using the same sticky pad, plugged it back into the original socket. Bingo. Booted up and everything was back to normal.

Monkeyrebirth - 27/12/14

Schritt 17

Hebe die innere Kante des optischen Laufwerks an und bewege seinen Verbinder am GPU Rahmen, der am Logic Bordbefestigt ist, vorbei.
Ziehe das optische Laufwerk vorsichtig aus den Befestigungsstiften an der rechten Seite des äußeren Gehäuses, damit du etwas Platz gewinnst, um das Kabel des optischen Laufwerks lösen zu können.
Lasse das optische Laufwerk herunterhängen, während du den Verbinder zum Thermosensor am optischen Laufwerk hinter dem Kühlkörper der GPU herauslöst.

this part is complicated because the wire is very delicate. when you try to extract it passing through the others elements this wire trap it very easily on the other elements of the logic board

Cristian Pizarro - 25/05/17

Schritt 18

Löse den Anschluss vom optischen Laufwerk indem du den Verbinder vom Laufwerk weg ziehst.
Entferne das Laufwerk vom iMac.
Wenn du ein zweites Laufwerk einbaust, darfst du nicht vergessen den Thermosensor vom optischen Laufwerk auf den neuen Laufwerkseinschub zu übertragen.

Schritt 19

Entferne die 13 mm Torx T10 Schraube, mit der der Lüfter des optischen Laufwerks am Gehäuse befestigt ist.

This is the one with a large head.

hybanibienen - 26/10/16

Schritt 20

Ziehe den Lüfter des optischen Laufwerks aus den Stiften am Gehäuse.

Schritt 21

Ziehe den Stecker des Lüfters vom optischen Laufwerk aus seinem Sockel auf dem Logic Board.
Entferne den Lüfter des optischen Laufwerks vom iMac.

If you need to clean it watch here how to easily open it: '''https://youtu.be/MWHcPpSL4O0'''

jeank75 - 21/02/21

Schritt 22

In den nächsten Schritten wirst du folgende Kabel ablösen:
SD Kartenleser und Mikrofon
Linker/rechter Lautsprecher
Wi-Fi Antenne
Bluetooth/Helligkeitssensor/Kamera/Linker Temperatursensor, Thermosensor der Festplatte und Festplattenlüfter
CPU Lüfter/Umgebungstemperatur und Einschalttaste
Infrarotsensor

Be careful, reinstalling the logic board, some of these cables stand under the card and you have to remove the card again to get them… :((

pascal ESNAULT - 29/04/19

Schritt 23

Ziehe den Stecker des Mikrofonkabels zur Oberkante des iMac hin und löse ihn vom Logic Board ab.

Schritt 24

Ziehe das Kabel des SD Kartenlesers aus seinem Anschluss auf dem Logic Board.

When replacing it, copper points down.

agigante - 28/01/19

Schritt 25

Ziehe die Stecker an den Kabeln zum rechten und linken Lautsprecher zur rechten Seite des iMac hin und löse sie ab.

Schritt 26

Heble die beiden AirPort Antennenstecker mit dem flachen Ende des Spudgers aus ihren Anschlüssen auf der AirPort Karte.
Das graue Antennenkabel ist am linken Anschluss eingesteckt, das schwarze Kabel am rechten.

Be super careful here. I spudged the sockets completely off the airport card when I was pulling apart mine.

Cary B - 07/03/20

I as well. These are delicate connectors...

Brett Williams -

Schritt 27

Ziehe den Stecker des Festplattenlüfters zur Oberkante des iMac hin und löse ihn ab.

Schritt 28

Ziehe den Stecker des Thermosensors der Festplatte aus seinem Anschluss zur Oberkante des iMacs hin und löse ihn so vom Logic Board.

Schritt 29

Drücke mit den Daumennägeln beide Seiten des Steckers von Bluetooth/Helligkeitssensor/Kamera/linker Temperatursensor zur Oberkante des iMacs hin und löse ihn aus seinem Anschluss auf dem Logic Board heraus.

Schritt 30

Ziehe den Stecker des CPU Lüfters/Umgebungstemeratursensors zur linken Unterkante des iMacs hin aus seinem Anschluss auf dem Logic Board heraus.
Ziehe den Stecker der Einschalttaste zur unteren linken Ende des iMacs und aus seinem Anschluss auf dem Logic Board heraus.

Schritt 31

Entferne das Stück Klebeband, das das Infrarotsensorkabel bedeckt.

Schritt 32

Drücke den Stecker des Infrarotsensors mit den Daumen zur Oberkante des iMacs hin aus seinem Anschluss heraus.

Schritt 33

Ziehe die Infrarotsensorkarte hinter der Frontplatte des äußeren Gehäuses hoch.
Entferne den Infrarotsensor und lege ihn zur Seite.

Schritt 34

Entferne folgende sieben Torx T10 Schrauben:
Zwei 7 mm Schrauben
Eine 30 mm Schraube
Zwei 25 mm Schrauben
Zwei 21 mm Schrauben

Don't forget the red one in the top corner!

Rob Dale - 14/04/17

Schritt 35

Sei sehr vorsichtig und berühre keine Lötstellen auf der Rückseite des Netzteils. Die Kondensatoren können noch ausreichend geladen sein, um dir einen gefährlichen Stromschlag zu versetzen.
Entferne folgende vier Schrauben
Eine 9,3 mm Torx T10 Grobgewindeschraube
Eine 25 mm Torx T10 Grobgewindeschraube
Zwei 22 mm Feingewindeschrauben
Ziehe die obere rechte und die untere linke Ecke des Netzteils vom rückwärtigen Gehäuse weg, damit die Montagestifte des Netzteils herauskommen.

Make sure the system has been powered off for a while. The capacitors on the power supply can still hold a charge for roughly 15 mins and will electrocute you if not handled properly

Dennis M - 01/06/19

No need to do this if you’re just going to pull out the logic board for GPU replacement.

František Žiačik - 23/02/20

it's possible to change the HDD fan without completely removing either the main board or the power supply. After removing the 4 screws on the PS board, I only had to pull it outward a few mm to remove the plastic wall on the HDD side, which is the part which holds the heat sink (attached to the main board) in place, Once the wires were unplugged from the main board's edges, and the IR board detached from the case front, I was able (with some delicate wiggling) to tilt the board out at the top enough (without unplugging anything from the back side of the board!) to remove the fan. The only tricky bit was getting that one fan screw out, which I managed with a T10 bit fastened to a 1/4" open-end wrench with some masking tape. A little awkward, but it saved a whole lot of disassembly. Somebody probably makes a skinny little ratchet that takes 1/4 hex bits directly, which would have made it easy.

Dan Gellert -

https://www.harborfreight.com/8-piece-ri...

Dan Gellert -

Schritt 36

Hebe vorsichtig das Netzteil aus dem äußeren Gehäuse heraus und drehe es, so dass der Kabelverschluss wie gezeigt sichtbar wird. Denke daran, dass die Gleichspannungs- und Netzkabel weiterhin am iMac angeschlossen sind.
Drücke den Kabelverschluss am Gleichstromkabel und löse den Stecker ab, indem du ihn aus seinem Anschluss herausziehst.
Wenn der Kabelverschluss aus dem Anschluss draußen ist, kannst du den Stecker der Gleichspannung vom Netzteil abziehen.

Schritt 37

Drücke den Kabelverschluss am Netzkabelstecker und ziehe ihn aus seinem Anschluss heraus.
Entferne das Netzkabel vom äußeren Gehäuse.

Schritt 38

Entferne die Kunstoffleiste, welche direkt an der LED Treiberplatine eingebaut ist.

Schritt 39

Entferne die Kunstoffandruckleiste, welche neben der Festplatte eingebaut ist.

Last step needed. Once board is free and you can see the battery hidden in the back, very easy to remove. Great guide!

chris - 29/10/16

Schritt 40

Ziehe das Logic Board leicht von der Rückseite des äußeren Gehäuses weg, hebe sie dann hoch, so dass die Frontplatte des äußeren Gehäuses frei wird.

Stopped here, once the logic board was free, I could just simply get to the battery

chris - 29/10/16

I noticed here that I had forgotten the top screw of step 34

Rob Dale - 14/04/17

Schritt 41

Ziehe den Stecker des Audioanschlusses von der Vorderseite des Logic Boards ab.

Schritt 42

Löse, falls vorhanden, das Klebeband ab, mit dem das Festplatten SATA Kabel am Logic Board befestigt ist.

Schritt 43

Drücke den Verschlussmechanismus am Stecker der Gleichstromversorgung und ziehe ihn vorsichtig aus seinem Anschluss auf der Rückseite des Logic Boards ab.

didn't need to do this

chris - 29/10/16

Step 44 Instruction is confusing. Why?

Because you suddenly mention a "mini display port cable" and "a USB cable" that up until now have never been mentioned. I'm not trying to be horsey, truly I'm not, but if you mean "plug in THE mini display port cable and THE USB cable" then I can assume both of these have previously been removed, although in scrolling back over all steps before step 44, I see no mention of either. So I remain confused about this instruction. All the rest of the steps are wonderfully clear and amazing. Apple itself cannot have provided a more perfect instruction (nor would they!). Well I'll leave this comment, although in re-reading Instruction 44, I now understand that these two cables are to be plugged in on the FRAME of the iMAC, OUTSIDE, so as to make sure the logic board INSIDE ends up properly aligned when reinstalled. My initial bad. Thank you.

James Lacey - 27/08/22

Schritt 44

Achte darauf den Anschluss am Logic Boards nicht zu beschädigen, wenn du das Festplatten SATA Datenkabel direkt aus seinem Anschluss auf dem Logic Board herausziehst.
Entferne das Logic Board, achte dabei darauf, dass sich dabei keine Kabel verfangen.
Beim Einbau des Logic Boards musst du zuerst das Kabel des Minidisplayportanschlusses und ein USB Kabel in den äußeren USB Anschluss stecken, bevor du die Schrauben des Logic Boards wieder anziehen kannst. Du stellst so sicher, dass das Logic Board richtig positioniert ist.

Schritt 45

Löse das Stück Klebeband vom Logic Board ab, das das Kabel des Thermosensors am Kühlkörper bedeckt.

Schritt 46

Hebe den Stecker des Thermosensors gerade aus seinem Anschluss auf dem Logic Board.
Achte darauf, dass du nur am Stecker ziehst, nicht am Anschluss.

Schritt 47

Wenn noch der Aufkleber mit "Warranty void if removed" vorhanden ist, dann löse diesen ab. Er verdeckt eine Schraube im Kühlkörper.

Schritt 48

Entferne folgende fünf Schrauben, mit denen der Kühlkörper am Logic Board befestigt ist:
Vier 6,4 mm Torx T8 Schrauben
Eine 4,3 mm Torx T10 Schraube
Es kann sein, dass du den Anschluss mit einem Kreuzschlitzschraubendreher an einer Seite der Platine festhalten musst, während du auf der anderen Seite der Platine die Torx Schraube losdrehst.

4+1 = 5

You say "remove 6 screws".

anne guillaume -

Thanks! Updated.

Andrew Optimus Goldheart -

Schritt 49

Hebe das Logic Board sorgfältig vom Kühlkörper ab.
Wenn die beiden Bauteile aneinander zu kleben scheinen, dann heble sie vorsichtig mit dem flache Ende eines Spudgers auseinander. Achte dabei darauf, dass du die Bauteile auf der Oberfläche des Logic Boards nicht beschädigst.
Bevor du den Kühlkörper wieder anbringst, musst du eine neue Schicht Wärmeleitpaste auftragen. Unsere Anleitung für Wärmeleitpasten erleichtert diese Arbeit.

Schritt 50

Ziehe vorsichtig den Haltebügel an der CPU vom CPU Anschluss weg.
Drehe den Bügel vom Logic Board weg.

Schritt 51

Hebe die CPU vorsichtig aus ihrem Anschluss hoch.
Achte darauf, dass die neue CPU korrekt ausgerichtet ist, bevor du sie wieder festdrückst. Der kleine goldfarbene Pfeil auf der CPU muss mit dem weißen Pfeil, der auf dem Logic Board in der Nähe des Anschlusses aufgedruckt ist, übereinstimmen. Dies ist im zweiten Bild zu sehen.
Bringe eine neue Schicht von Wärmeleitpaste auf, bevor du den Kühlkörper wieder befestigst. Unsere Anleitung für Wärmeleitpaste hilft dir dabei.

Abschluss

Um dein Gerät wieder zusammenzusetzen, folge den Schritten in umgekehrter Reihenfolge.

Tinte & Feder

Andrew Bookholt

578335 Reputation

14 Kommentare

Which of the CPU can i install?

molecularvel -

Hi, one question:

if i buy a new CPU that supports Ram 1600 Mhz, but my iMac use only 1333Mhz, if i put this CPU my iMac can use the total powerful of the 1600 Mhz?

Thanks

Miguel Alonso - 13/05/14

Please note that there are guides here to replace the CPU with a i7 2.93GHz on the iMac. This is specifically for the iMac 27" 2010 and NOT the 21.5". Even though the CPU has the same socket and fits in the ZIF socket there is a big difference between the 27" which uses a 95watt CPU and the 21.5" that only supports 74watt. So your only choice is to upgrade to a i5 3.6GHZ.

asle - 14/07/15

Hola,

Desde luego que hay diferencia, pero no es tanta como uno supondría dada la diferencia de rendimiento. El iMac de la generación del mío (mid 2010) puede usar 5 procesadores diferentes, cuyas especificaciones de disipación térmica son:

Core i3 540 (3.06 GHz): 73 Watts

Core i3 550 (3.20 GHz): 73 watts

Core i5 680 (3.60 MHz): 73 watts

Core i5 760 (2.80 MHz): 95 Watts

Core i7 870 (2.93 MHz): 95 watts

Dado que estos son los procesadores de fabrica de este iMac, al usar un Core i7 870 no debiera tener ningún problema de refrigeración ... claro que igual cruzaré los dedos por si acaso

Saludos cordiales,

jose antonio ossio rosales - 08/11/15

Hola yo tengo una imac core i3 550 LGA 1156, y quiero actualizarlo a un core i5 750 1156 pero no me funciona, pero cuando vuelvo a colocar el core i 3 si funciona. No me da señal de video con core i5 / i7 puede ser que solo funcione con core i3 ? segun vi soporta hasta core i7 ..

Mario - 13/09/16

thanks, upgraded my bottom of the line 2010 iMac 21.5 with a 3.6 core I 5, an SSD drive in the main hd bay, also replaced the defective dvd drive, new thermal grease on cpu, vpu, and north-bridge.

In Yosemite trim can be enabled, used a hardware option for fans to run as they should .

wish I could post a screen grab, it does all indeed work...

chippster stephens - 03/09/15

what chip did you have before? the 3.06 or 3.6 i3?

sjj.tmc - 03/04/19

Mario - 13/09/16

I completed this guide and went from an i3 3.06 to an i5 3.6. All good.

Tip 1 - Arrange all screws on a table in chronological order matching this guide, so reversing the steps is easy.

Tip 2 - No real need to remove the IR sensor from the logic board.

Tip 3 - When reseating the logic board, scan back through the steps and make sure all the cables that you will need to re-attach to the logic board are free and available. Don’t re-screw anything back in before checking this.

Matt Morris - 03/11/17

Did you use the Intel I5-680?

Tim Provily - 29/11/17

Tim - yes, I went to an i5 680

Matt Morris - 16/05/18

Hi guys, please tell me, with what processor could I replace this one?

And what video card do you put in this place (this is defective, some streaks appear to me, and when it enters the system, the gray screen is made)?

iMac 11,1 (Late 2009) A1312 (EMC 2374)

i7 2.8 (860) GHz (Turbo Boost 3.46 GHz)

Maxim 32GB RAM (4 Slots)

Radeon 4850 512RAM

https://everymac.com/systems/apple/imac/...

code4power - 30/06/20

I have an iMac 2010 21.5 screen with an i3-540 processor, 12GB ram memory, Ati Radeon HD4670 and macOS High Sierra.

I upgraded my CPU to i5-660 3.33Ghz, same TDP, socket, etc. My iMac started fine but everything worked slower, I cannot watch youtube without dropping frames, the same on ZOOM.

I run Geekbench 5 and here are the results

i3-540 Single core 511, Multi core 1122

i5-660 Single core 226, Multi core 519

What did I do wrong?

Javier Mendoza - 11/01/21

I have seen two youtube videos where people successfully upgraded their cpu in this machine to a quad core i7, both 2,53GHz and 2.93GHz. There is a question as to whether or not it will except for 32 GB of RAM or only 24, but I’ve seen the pictures and proof of the cpu upgrade. Before I embark on this adventure, I just wanted to verify if anyone else has had luck.

Rob Anthony Dire - 04/05/21