iMac Intel 21,5" EMC 2428 Netzanschluss austauschen

Before beginning unplug your iMac.

The screws are not phillips #1 as implied above. My phillips#2 bit fit.

Yes phillips #2 is the correct Bit

Just FYI you can install 32GB’s of RAM in this machine. I have been using it this way for over 2 years now.

Thanks for your Useful guide …. iMac Intel 21.5" EMC 2428 RAM Replacement was performed step by step on my Imac and every thing is perfect right now.

would this be a good time to increase the size of the RAM too? Would it be as simple as slipping the new RAM in when redoing the steps? Thanks

When reinstalling RAM in this machine or any iMac with upgradable RAM slots push hard to get them to go in (Apple really did make this one harder than it needed to be). If you don't push hard it won't go in and your computer won't work. (trust me on this learned the hard way)

Is there an expirience to settle 1600 MgH Ram instead 1333 MgH manual required?

Very easy to lift the glass out. Don't jerk too hard.

Another comment on DATA & LCD Temp. Sensor cables: I had to remove the vertical sync, and the backlight cable, however, if you have an assistant or/can carefully rotate the screen clockwise/and then have it held up about 5" to 6" at a slight angle, you do not need to remove LCD data cable or LCD thermal cable, however - IMPORTANT: you must have a second pair of hands/or way to securely prop up the LCD. Also, don't rotate too much, since then you will pull out LCD data cable, and it renders the whole exercise moot, or can damage the cable or connector.

Wearing Nitrile or regular surgical gloves helps prevent finger prints if you accidentally touch the glass.

+1 for the straw tip. Worked a treat!

Hmm… yes, the magnets sucks - literally. But if you use a normal screwdriver or a bit, the screwdriver tip or the bit can be “loaded” by the magnets too. Just move the screwdriver (or bit) over one of the magnets and then “plug” the screw onto the screwdriver’s tip (or bit). It will be held by magnetic force. Just enough to move the screw vertically and very slowly into the whole.

There are some special screwdriver on the market with “claws” to hold screws, but they are hard to find/to buy and expensive. I sometimes use superglue (a LITTLE) to temporary fasten the screw at the screwdrivers tip. This technique can be used with destroyed screw heads too to optimize adhesion.

You can use one hand to hold the edge up while reaching with the other hand to disconnect cables. You may want to have a prop handy (like a small book) or an extra person to hold the edge up while you disconnect cables.

Use the teardown guide for your iMac to familiarise yourself with the layout of everything before you dive in. I was able to get an idea of how much clearance there was once the display is unfixed from the frame, where the optical drive was relative to the base etc

Tried doing this on my iMac, but this cable would not come out for love or money. No matter what I did, I could not unplug this cable. My iMac is the same 21inch 2011 as this one. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

use a little poker type thing in your right hand to push on the 2 holes that are on top of the plug and wiggle it out with your other hand,

I was tempted to forgo steps 4-10 but found the inside of the case to be very dusty and decided to do the full disassemble. I struggled getting this vertical sync cable connector out. The trick that worked for me was to prop the display up using a pair of toilet paper tubes then using the fingernails of both thumbs, one on each side of the connector and it came out easily.

Slip a thumbnail under the “front” (toward the top of the iMac) of the connector to release its clamp from the retaining ridge. Then push toward the “back” (bottom of iMac).

The connector needs to be carefully pushed in parallel to the board with a surprising amount of pressure and the pull tab must be folded back. Not super fragile, but not strong either.

I really wish that the fagility of this connector was mentioned in Step 10 or 11.. When i rotated the screen on step 11.. It pulled this connector out and now I can't get it back in.. I hate computers.. HA!

When putting the display down on the table, be careful not to kink the flat ribbon cable.

Btw, I was pretty safe (& content) with two suction cups - i bought 3 for less than 7 Euros. They were a good help for a glass that hasn’t been removed since 2011. But i am sure fingernails will do a good job, too (of course not mine, cos i have short ones).

At the end of the job it was even possoible to clean the fan that sucks cool air into the iMac (w/ a paintbrush and a controllable vaccuum cleaner). After that, it’s also a good opportunity to clean the air inlet that is part of the aluminium case (behind the stand - it’s always dusty).

w/ regards from cantbtroo, Berlin

In my case the red screw was on the lower left side near the power-data cable!

Same here. There are different versions delivered

Same for me.

No need to remove the thermal sensor connector from the motherboard - refer to Step 17 to remove the sensor from the optical drive instead

The thermal sensor connector shown in the red box is the one for the hard drive, not the optical drive. The optical drive sensor attaches to motherboard near bottom left of optical drive fan.

The guide was correct in my case that this is the Optical Drive sensor. The board has “ODD Temp” written on it. Original HD has it’s own built in temperature sensor without a separate cable to the Motherboard, which is why OWC sells a special “In-line Thermal Sensor” SATA cable with a Temp. sensor that attaches to any new hard drive itself.

On the reassembly, I found threading the optical drive cable back under the GPU frame trying. Here’s some advice: Take some dental floss, form a loop, and feed that loop under the GPU frame. Put the cable into the loop of floss, tighten the loop, and pull the loop back through. This is much easier, faster, and far less frustrating.

I have already installed the second SSD drive, but due to the size of the drive I need to change it with another SSHD 1 TB drive. Am I right that I have to follow the instructions up to Step 18? Because The SSD is already behind the optical drive, so what I need to do is remove it and install the new SSHD drive and put everything back again. Please confirm.

This was my only error on reassembly. The SATA cable must be under the black plastic prong. I did not want to pull to logic board again. I managed to bend the black plastic bits and get the cable in the right place.

If you happen to forget to plug the fan in before you re-install the fan, instead of trying to plug it in while it's in there just take the fan back out...I've heard from a friend who did that... :-D

The cable in the yellow box pulls out parallel to board. The connector looks as if it might be different, but grasp the black tabs and pull parallel to the board

The power button cable is super easy to break, use a small tipped plyer, same goes for the right temperature sensor. I broke both on my imac 2011 20.5 model.

Mine is:

2 bands = CH0

1 bands = CH1

0 bands = CH2

Model: AR5BXB112

what does this cables mean?

mine is:

2 bands = CH0

1 bands = CH1

0 bands = CH2

I broke that cable and I would like to know where to buy the right temperature sensor cable. Thanks.

Please be careful with this step on the power button. Mine disintegrated when I pulled it out and I had to put it back in the socket pieced together and tape it. Just be careful.

NOTE: Be aware that (especially refurbished iMac’s) may have adhesive that may increase difficulty removing sensor. Possible recommendation; Use your iFixit Jimmy Tool or spudger to assist you in reaching the adhesive strip.

I tried using my thumbnails as shown to push the connector out of its socket, but the individual wires came out instead. Spudger didn’t help. I had to remove the connector after all 4 wires came loose. I don’t know if this is worth the trouble to fix.

had the same experience as James. Will not replace it and see what happens

On reassembly:

Be sure to route the BT/camera multicolor cable (step 27) and the temperature sensor cable (step 28) into the gap next to the logic board. The correct location is seen well in step 32, just above the person’s index finger.

ALSO on reassembly, check between the board and metal post under the right-hand yellow dot in this picture. Be absolutely sure that the left speaker wire, the SD board cable or the right fan cable aren’t between the board and the post. I shorted out my left speaker by getting it caught in there. Easy fix, but if they’re bent just right they just seem to want to fall between the board and post. Make sure they’re outa’ there!

SAFETY NOTE: Remember ANY high voltage power supply can cause SERIOUS INJURY and may still hold charge LONG AFTER the device has been unplugged, EVEN IF PROPERLY DISCHARGED!!!

Amen. Having been jolted twice from 2 different spots on the power supply, I would recommend covering the power supply with a small microfiber cloth, handling it by the edges and keeping the cloth in place. Cheap insurance. It will also protect the power supply if it touches something conductive on the hard disc when you flip it over to remove the DC-out cable (next step).

At this point on reassembly, make sure the optical drive SATA cable is under the black plastic wall prong. The connector must be low to reach the optical drive.

YES to Terry above. The optical drive cable actually pretty much floats loose when the connectors are pulled off. It needs to stay below the transverse wall which is right under the person’s right hand in the photo above.

Additionally, it would help to take a picture here to remember where the cables all go. You will have some open sockets at the end and it’s a little confusing. There is a good diagram of their locations here: Screenshot #1 at ++https://drive.google.com/drive/folders... Thanks to Timothy in comment for step 41 for this link. Basically don’t get sockets for SSD and HDD confused!

But thats the CPU temp sensor, not LCD

HI,

I just replace the dead GPU Card on an Imac 21.5 Mid 2011,

Got 2x2Gb 1333 sodim in the top of slot.

When i finish the repair, the mac start normally but except the right memory slot ,When looking at the front of the Imac , (The top and bottom Right Slot memory ) (Dimm Ch B )

I search on the net and found that i properly knocked the motherboard when I put it back in.

I think the power Filter, behind the motherboard ,is what cause that.(Because when you fight to put back cable behind the motherboard)

You need to mention that, next time.

I’m not sure about that but I think the part C3230. (I do not disasembly it again to verify (It’s so Fragile)

Can someone confirm that,( And what do i need to do to repair it.??

Or Do someone have the same problem, (Right slot (Top & Bottom ) Not working.??

Mr Desvaux

You forgot after this step to pull out the optical drive cable from the mlb, also make it very clear that its crucial to put those cables back in the right socket not to cause bigger damage to the logicboard.

I searched all over the internet for photos or diagrams of the back side of the logic board to understand where to connect SATA 1 and 2 data cables. This is a pain to reopen and go back to where you can fix the SATA connection.

I located the schematic for the area. I hope this of use to someone https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1...

it's possible to change the HDD fan without completely removing either the main board or the power supply. After removing the 4 screws on the PS board, I only had to pull it outward a few mm to remove the plastic wall on the HDD side, which is the part which holds the heat sink (attached to the main board) in place, Once the wires were unplugged from the main board's edges, and the IR board detached from the case front, I was able (with some delicate wiggling) to tilt the board out at the top enough (without unplugging anything from the back side of the board!) to remove the fan. The only tricky bit was getting that one fan screw out, which I managed with a T10 bit fastened to a 1/4" open-end wrench with some masking tape. A little awkward, but it saved a whole lot of disassembly. Somebody probably makes a skinny little ratchet that takes 1/4 hex bits directly, which would have made it easy.

https://www.harborfreight.com/8-piece-ri...