iMac Intel 21,5" EMC 2428 Netzteil austauschen

Geschrieben von: Walter Galan
  • Kommentare: 67
iMac Intel 21,5" EMC 2428 Netzteil austauschen

Schwierigkeitsgrad

Mittel

Schritte

13

Zeitaufwand

40 Minuten - 2 Stunden

Einleitung

Diese Anleitung zeigt dir, wie du ein defektes Netzteil austauschen kannst.

  1. S6gQ2HIHlQuHu5Sy
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    • Ziehe den Stecker, bevor du anfängst. Lege den iMac auf eine weiche Oberfläche, so wie gezeigt.

    • Befestige einen Saugnapf in jeder der oberen Ecken der Scheibe.

    • Um die Saugnäpfe, die wir verkaufen, anzubringen, musst du erst den Saugnapf mit dem beweglichen Griff parallel zur Scheibe aufsetzen. Halte den Saugnapf gegen die Scheibe und klappe den Griff hoch, bis er parallel mit dem anderen ist.

    • Wenn der Saugnapf sich nicht festsaugt, dann versuche die Scheibe und den Saugnapf mit einem milden Reinigungsmittel zu säubern.

    Very easy to lift the glass out. Don't jerk too hard.

    kctipton -

    Another comment on DATA & LCD Temp. Sensor cables: I had to remove the vertical sync, and the backlight cable, however, if you have an assistant or/can carefully rotate the screen clockwise/and then have it held up about 5" to 6" at a slight angle, you do not need to remove LCD data cable or LCD thermal cable, however - IMPORTANT: you must have a second pair of hands/or way to securely prop up the LCD. Also, don't rotate too much, since then you will pull out LCD data cable, and it renders the whole exercise moot, or can damage the cable or connector.

    MaximBorzov -

    You don't need suction cups. The screen, held by magnets, can simply be pried off using a very thin blade such as a screw driver and fingers.

    Deepsurvival -

    That's a bad idea. using a metal tool to pry off glass is likely to end with an expensive broken front glass.

    Suction cups are common. Find a couple and do it the safe way. I use some cheap ones that came with iPhone repair kit.

    max damage -

    No need for suction cups, I just stuck my nails (short like guys usually have) between the top part of the screen and body, and it came off easily. I've never done it before, so it seems to be very easy.

    Nikolas Lintulaakso -

    Nails worked for me too

    Rob Dale -

    Just completed the replacement of the optical drive with an SSD using an OWC Data Doubler kit. Attempted to remove the optical drive without disconnecting any cables but found it a bit fiddly to orient the screen for good access. I bit the bullet and disconnected them and found the process less daunting than I imagined. Reconnecting them was similarly straightforward if you're careful.

    Tip: you can skip the step for removing the optical drive thermal sensor connector from the motherboard. Still need to remove the sensor from the optical drive but you can leave that hanging and reattach it to the SSD later.

    osienna -

    I use Garmin GPS suction cup. Work very well

    jc3Dcx -

    I’ve just successfully installed a 1TB SSD in place of my optical drive thanks to the information here- thank you to everyone who has contributed!

    3 comments- the procedure described here seems to vary between HD replacement and dual HD/optical drive replacement. This can be confusing at times.

    Expect there to be minor differences between the layout described and what you find when you open up your iMac. There are also, surprisingly, differences between the HD enclosure description, and the article provided by ifixit.

    I was able to replace the DVD/HD enclosure single-handedly without fully removing the LCD, or deconnecting any of the cables (steps 5-11). It’s a bit cramped, and fiddly, but I was not happy removing any of the cables despite watching videos, etc., since they all seemed to involve applying more force than I was comfortable with. A more detailed description of how to release them might have helped, but even here, there may be minor variations even within the 2389 model.

    Good luck!

    ivan birks -

    I did it several times with one suction cup at the end of a kitchen brush. Once with the blade of a swiss army knive, also ok. And i’m pretty sure it works with fingernails too

    Tai -

    Fingernails are all you need to free the glass from its magnetic hold. If you don’t have them, slip something thin and plastic, like a spudger, at a top corner.

    Max Powers -

    Minha dúvida é a seguinte: após o técnico trocar o HD do meu iMac de 21,5 polegadas, a câmera parou de funcionar. Seria por causa da troca do HD? Tem solução?

    Claudio -

    Creio que o cabo da camera não foi plugado ou deu mau contato… ou até danificado.

    glecyo@gmail.com

    glecyo medeiros -

    I can’t get my glass to budge. I’m replacing a cracked one and now it’s about to shatter.

    jamboxmitchell -

    I know that I'm replying really late but I advise to use clear tape over any cracks so the cracks don't get bigger

    Jace Holmes -

    Check for chips in the glass BEFORE you do this step. If there is a chip when you pull up with the suction cups you will wind up with a jagged mess. If you do have a chip I would advise covering the screen near the chip with clear tape of some kind before lifting out. Mine shattered right at the chip and the resulting glass dust cloud got all over. My solution was buying a new glass screen.

    BCam -

  2. dEfYFtAGakgNBgPI
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    • Hebe die Scheibe vorsichtig senkrecht zum LCD an, gerade soweit um die Metallstifte, die oben an der Unterseite der Scheibe angebracht sind zu befreien.

    • Ziehe die Scheibe von der Unterkante des iMac weg und lege sie sorgfältig zur Seite.

    • Achte beim Zusammenbau darauf, die Innenseite der Scheibe und das LCD peinlich genau zu reinigen. Jeglicher Staub und Fingerabdrücke werden sichtbar, sobald die Maschine eingeschaltet ist.

    What's the best product to clean the face of the LCD?

    Steve Speirs -

    Microfiber Cloth

    Leonardo Fournier -

    Try your best not touch it in the first place

    Brian -

    Wearing Nitrile or regular surgical gloves helps prevent finger prints if you accidentally touch the glass.

    amiller770 -

  3. Bix4VhiaYBKCt2rZ
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    • Entferne die acht 8mm Torx T10 Schrauben, die das Display am Gehäuse befestigen.

    • Die beiden letzten Bilder sind Detailaufnahmen von beiden Seiten des Displays.

    The metal near the screws is VERY magnetic. Honestly, the hardest and by far most frustrating step was trying to put these screws back in.

    seancourtney -

    I ran into the same problem - easily the most frustrating part of this process. To help deal with it, I took a drinking straw, cut it to be about 2 inches long, and used it as a chute to guide the screw to the hole. Dropping the screw down the straw, it'd still stick to the side due to the magnets, but using my screwdriver, it was easy to push the screw down to where it needed to go, and the straw kept the screw from being pulled out of place by the magnets.

    josh -

    +1 for the straw tip. Worked a treat!

    osienna -

    Hmm… yes, the magnets sucks - literally. But if you use a normal screwdriver or a bit, the screwdriver tip or the bit can be “loaded” by the magnets too. Just move the screwdriver (or bit) over one of the magnets and then “plug” the screw onto the screwdriver’s tip (or bit). It will be held by magnetic force. Just enough to move the screw vertically and very slowly into the whole.

    There are some special screwdriver on the market with “claws” to hold screws, but they are hard to find/to buy and expensive. I sometimes use superglue (a LITTLE) to temporary fasten the screw at the screwdrivers tip. This technique can be used with destroyed screw heads too to optimize adhesion.

    Udo -

    Les vis sont inévitablement aimantées

    Gui -

    Replacing these screws was like playing the most difficult game of “Operation” imaginable. I wish I’d seen the tip about using a straw before I started playing!

    Bret Mogilefsky -

  4. sHKTUAJPVrAGfLvG

    • Hebe den oberen Rand des Displays leicht aus dem äußeren Gehäuse.

    • Hebe es nicht zu weit hoch. Mehrere Kabel verbinden das Display noch mit dem Logic Board. Wenn du am Display mit angeschlossenen Kabeln drehst oder ziehst, kann dein iMac beschädigt werden.

    You can use one hand to hold the edge up while reaching with the other hand to disconnect cables. You may want to have a prop handy (like a small book) or an extra person to hold the edge up while you disconnect cables.

    kctipton -

    Use the teardown guide for your iMac to familiarise yourself with the layout of everything before you dive in. I was able to get an idea of how much clearance there was once the display is unfixed from the frame, where the optical drive was relative to the base etc

    osienna -

    The harddisk can be removed WITHOUT the next steps. The opening angle of the partially lifted LCD display gives enough room to untighten the two Torx T9 screws of the hard disk bracket, to unplug the two SATA connectors and to carefully lift out the harddisk. There is absolutely no need to dismantle the whole thing.

    All you need is a screwdriver which fits into the room. I’ve used the “Pro Tech Toolkit” from iFixit. The screwdriver with Torx T9 bit fits perfectly.

    The other “tool” you need is either someone who holds the LCD plate or the inner leftover of a kitchenroll, a scrunched paper, a small towel or similar which has to be stuffed between the logic boards and the LCD plate to keep the LCD at its lifted place (careful! don’t unplug any of the cables).

    I’ve opened and changed the harddisks of those 21,5 iMacs a dozen times with the help of the “Pro Tech Toolkit” and a kitchen roll.

    Udo -

    If i want to replace the HD with a SSD, can i still skip the next steps? I think i can’t because i need to change the termal censor, but i would like an other opinion please.

    Danois -

    “Kitchen Roll” - paper towel core.

    kyoder11 -

    Hia,

    thx to IFIXIT and 20+ years of computer repair and building experience (all PC) there was no problem at all to remove a 500 Gb HDD from a mid 2011 iMac and replace it with an 500 Gb SSD Drive (with help from Comtec EDV, where i bought the upgrade kit).

    Skip the steps where people are advised to remove the display. Due to my experience it is def better to leave cables and plugs where they are. I lifted the display 12 cm and fixed this position w/ one pencil in each front corner of the case where the other end of the pencil sticked in ascrew hole of the display-frame. Very easy to operate afterwards! No probs w/ the screws of the hdd-frame.

    Some care-taking of static electricity is advised - wear a wrist cable. And don’t forget to press start button after having removed power chord. I had an Android Tablet on the right side, where i could watch these ifixit pages :-)

    thx to IFIXIT!

    w/ regards from cantbtroo from Berlin

    Hans- Peter -

    Thank you ifixit for the guide. Like so many others I jumped from step 4 to step 10 and left all the cables intact. Felt much safer doing so. Papertowel cores secured the LCD to higher position. There was enough room to remove the old HDD and replace it with a SSD drive.

    Cheers!

    Aapo Kaivosoja -

    I also was able to proceed with rest of instructions, after skillping steps 4-10, just have to be very gentle, i think it would help to have a second set of hands to hold screen above while other hands are uninstalling and installing hard drive, but i was able to do it on my own

    jacob d -

    If you have trouble lifting the LCD or accessing the connectors, check if you have removed the right screws. There are a lot of identical Torx screws that are accessible without removing the LCD that have nothing to do with the screen, I learnt that by nearly breaking mine xD

    Luther -

  5. uYfTvPHNlllVQJ2x
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    • Ziehe den Verbinder des Vertikalsynchronisationskabel aus seinem Sockel auf der LED Treiberplatine nahe der linken oberen Ecke deines iMac.

    Tried doing this on my iMac, but this cable would not come out for love or money. No matter what I did, I could not unplug this cable. My iMac is the same 21inch 2011 as this one. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

    louis.barr -

    use a little poker type thing in your right hand to push on the 2 holes that are on top of the plug and wiggle it out with your other hand,

    Nicholas -

    I was tempted to forgo steps 4-10 but found the inside of the case to be very dusty and decided to do the full disassemble. I struggled getting this vertical sync cable connector out. The trick that worked for me was to prop the display up using a pair of toilet paper tubes then using the fingernails of both thumbs, one on each side of the connector and it came out easily.

    Anthony Zimmerman -

    Great idea of using toilet paper tubes to prop up the LCD! Thanks.

    jim -

  6. Z6oLICdOpXOqb5Sv
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    • Drehe das Display soweit aus dem Gehäuse heraus, dass du das Stromversorgungskabel der LED Rückbeleuchtung von der LED Treiberplatine ablösen kannst.

    • Löse das Kabel ab, indem du den Verschlussmechanismus des Steckers hineindrückst während du ihn gleichzeitig aus seinem Sockel ziehst. (in Richtung Unterkante des iMac).

    Slip a thumbnail under the “front” (toward the top of the iMac) of the connector to release its clamp from the retaining ridge. Then push toward the “back” (bottom of iMac).

    Anthony Zimmerman -

  7. npaWnsJX6JZjJGpj
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    • Fasse die Zuglasche am Sicherungsbügel des Displaydatenkabels an und drehe ihn nach oben.

    • Ziehe das Displaydatenkabel aus seinem Sockel auf dem Logic Board.

    • Ziehe das Kabel nicht nach oben, sein Sockel ist sehr empfindlich. Ziehe es parallel zur Oberfläche des Logic Boards.

    I am having a difficult time reattaching the LCD cable. A better description or any tips would be useful here.

    Ben Bauermeister -

    Me too — ditto that.

    Roger Buttermore -

    https://eshop.macsales.com/item/OWC/DIDI... —> abt. 5:30 into the vid. Handle up to slide in, then flip it down to lock the connector in place.

    Roger Buttermore -

    The connector needs to be carefully pushed in parallel to the board with a surprising amount of pressure and the pull tab must be folded back. Not super fragile, but not strong either.

    Isaac Vande Zande -

    I really wish that the fagility of this connector was mentioned in Step 10 or 11.. When i rotated the screen on step 11.. It pulled this connector out and now I can't get it back in.. I hate computers.. HA!

    Philip Nelson -

    This is the most painful part of the whole event. Replacing this cable took me around 30 minutes !

    K. Efe Egilmez -

    I have tried and tried to get this cable back in. How do I know if I have messed it up?

    Christopher Teer -

    Mine seems to be…upside down? Looks like the little flappy lock thing is on the bottom as opposed to it being in top as pictured?

    jinnifer douglass -

    I agree with everybody that this is the critical step in this fix. Removing it is not that difficult, the description is quite accurate, but I would highlight that the “rotate” part of the step could be detailed: the black plastic tab is attached to the metal lock (golden colored) , which should rotate into the direction of the cable almost 180 degrees to unlock the connector. After doing this you can pull the cable out of the connector, PARALLEL to the board and away from the connector. It travels a very short distance to disconnect. After going through the rest of the steps to remove the display, take some time to examine closely the connector and understand what you have to do to reconnect it on assembly. It helps to fully visualize beforehand, since on reassembly it is difficult to see properly.

    Fernando Walker -

    Magnifying glasses are needed for this step. Carefully study the cable and how it attaches to the connector. Take a few pictures to help. This is the most difficult step.

    Norman Staples -

  8. JlRYIragda3eBSWX
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    • Löse den Verbinder des Kabels zum Thermosensor des LCD aus seinem Sockel auf dem Logic Board.

    When putting the display down on the table, be careful not to kink the flat ribbon cable.

    frank -

    The replacement hard drive I used doesn't even appear to spin up and the Time Capsule restore process doesn't show it as available. It just stays at Searching for disks and never finds it.

    JRBv3 -

    I had to use Disk Utility to partition the drive and then it showed fine. Rookie mistake.

    JRBv3 -

    I managed to damage the LCD thermal sensor socket in the logic board. Now the connector won’t stay in place. I know the missing thermal sensor should cause the fans to spin up (they do spin up after a while), but the screen is blank.

    I connected an external monitor and it works fine, so it doesn’t seem to be a graphics or logic board issue. I also replaced the LED driver board with one from a working iMac, to no effect.

    Can the missing thermal sensor be causing this?

    Rodrigo da Rosa Cesconeto -

    Having the same problem. Black screen, works fine with external display.

    Passerby -

  9. X4PMZJwCtrbQ4ALo

    • Ziehe das Display sorgfältig in Richtung Oberkante deines iMac und hebe es aus dem Gehäuse. Achte darauf, dass sich keine Kabel verfangen.

    Btw, I was pretty safe (& content) with two suction cups - i bought 3 for less than 7 Euros. They were a good help for a glass that hasn’t been removed since 2011. But i am sure fingernails will do a good job, too (of course not mine, cos i have short ones).

    At the end of the job it was even possoible to clean the fan that sucks cool air into the iMac (w/ a paintbrush and a controllable vaccuum cleaner). After that, it’s also a good opportunity to clean the air inlet that is part of the aluminium case (behind the stand - it’s always dusty).

    w/ regards from cantbtroo, Berlin

    Hans- Peter -

  10. RJPJAYU5XWsQkObu

    • In den nächsten Schritten wirst du deine Hände in die Nähe der offenen Oberfläche des Netzteils bringen. Vermeide einen eventuellen Stromschlag von den vielen großen Kondensatoren auf der Netzteilplatine und berühre die Oberfläche nicht.

    • Entferne folgende vier Schrauben, welche das Netzteil am äußeren Gehäuse befestigen:

    • Eine 9,3 mm Torx T10 Grobgewindeschraube

    • Eine 25 mm Torx T10 Grobgewindeschraube

    • Zwei 22 mm Torx T10 Feingewindeschrauben

  11. XeuoFBfsrOHiaVLJ

    • Ziehe die obere rechte und die untere linke Ecke des Netzteils vom rückwärtigen Gehäuse weg, um die Montagepfosten in den Ecken des Netzteils abzulösen.

    Be very careful as there still might be some current banked in the capacitors. Good enough to give you a minor shock.

    K. Efe Egilmez -

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    • Hebe das Netzteil vorsichtig aus dem äußeren Gehäuse heraus und drehe es um, so dass der Kabelverschluss wie gezeigt sichtbar wird. Denke dabei daran, dass die Gleichspannungs- und Netzkabel immer noch am iMac angeschlossen sind.

    • Löse das Gleichspannungskabel, indem du den Verschlussmechanismus am Stecker drückst, während du gleichzeitig den Stecker weg von seinem Anschluss auf dem Netzteil ziehst.

    • Wenn der Verschlussmechanismus aus dem Anschluss draußen ist, dann ziehe den Gleichspannungsstecker vom Netzteil weg.

  13. OQSTD6SgdClVYCUa

    • Löse das Netzkabel, indem du die Kabelsicherung drückst und gleichzeitig den Stecker weg von seinem Anschluss ziehst.

    • Entferne das Netzteil vom äußeren Gehäuse.

Abschluss

Um dein Gerät wieder zusammenzusetzen, folge den Schritten in umgekehrter Reihenfolge.

Tinte & Feder

Walter Galan

685541 Reputation

10 Kommentare

I avoided this repair for a while. My iMac would not turn on, no fans or response of any kind from pushing the power button. Reapir took me less than 30 minutes and was very straight forward.

lanekrarup -

is there a fuse in the PCB where it can be replaced instead of replacing the whole power supply unit?

Victor Emmanuel Erames -

Excellent guide! Also watched the video, then dove right in. 27 minutes later my iMac was up and running!

Dave -

What video? I do not see any video on this page. Could you please share the link?

Thank you

vedelfino -

It took me like 20 minutes to replace the power supply. Having somebody hold the display unit while disconnecting/connecting the underneath cables was a big help ;)....and a flashlight to see better inside.

vedelfino -

I did this replacement and it went great.

iMac turned on, but all the fans are blowing out of control.

I use Macs fan control now, but I would rather understand what I did wrong and how can I fix it.

Maybe I pulled the wrong wire somewhere? Although I swear I did it exactly as instructed.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

dean baram -

The imac is working fine, with a second display, the imac screen is now black, have checked all connections, not sure what I did wrong, any suggestions?

iMacker -

how to verify a power supply?

erickwok1105 -

Hi i want to replace my power supply of iMac 21,5” Late 2011 to a power supply of iMac 27” 2009-2011 for power increase, because of CPU Upgrade to a i7 2600.

Is it possible?

Greets

Roman Pi -

Thanks, IFixIt! Took me about 1-1/2 hours for the power supply replacement, including cleaning, once the iMac was fully opened. Great instructions. As a novice repair person, I was being ultra careful, though, and was photographing things as I went along. Everything went like a charm until Step 12 (disconnect the DC-out cable). Struggled to get it disconnected even though the locking mechanism was disengaged. Ending up using a tool in the joint between the two cable parts to help pry it apart.

Seriously, order everything you need from IFixIt and support a business that makes your device repair so straightforward. Shipping was extremely fast as well!

R Martin -