iMac Intel 27" EMC 2390 Lüfter am optischen Laufwerk austauschen

Geschrieben von: Walter Galan
  • Kommentare: 77
iMac Intel 27" EMC 2390 Lüfter am optischen Laufwerk austauschen

Schwierigkeitsgrad

Mittel

Schritte

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Zeitaufwand

Keine Schätzung

Einleitung

Hier wird der Austausch des Lüfters am optischen Laufwerk gezeigt.

  1. sQYsHCwlim2WOs5y
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    • Befestige je einen Heavy Duty Saugheber in den beiden oberen Ecken der Glasscheibe.

    • Um die Saugheber zu befestigen, platziere sie erst mit dem beweglichen Henkel parallel zur Glasscheibe (wie im zweiten Bild gezeigt).

    • Halte den Saugheber leicht an der Scheibe und hebe den beweglichen Henkel bis er parallel mit dem anderen ist (wie im dritten Bild gezeigt).

    • Wenn deine Saugheber sich nicht befestigen lassen, reinige sie und den Bildschirm mit einem angefeuchteten, fusselfreien Tuch. (Am besten verwende destilliertes Wasser und, wenn das nicht hilft, ein 50/50-Gemisch aus weißem Essig und destilliertem Wasser.)

    • Hebe die Glasscheibe nicht nur an den Saughebern hoch, da sie dir sonst runterfällt, wenn ein Saugheber sich löst.

    • Die Originalverpackung des iMacs ist ein guter Ort, um die Glasscheibe abzulegen. Andernfalls tut es auch eine weiche und ebene Fläche, zum Beispiel ein Handtuch auf einem Tisch.

    You can easily lift the glass panel off the magnets with only your fingernails (or something thin like a credit card or a guitar pick). No need to buy suction cups you will only use once.

    Nick Caron -

    Yes, you don't need the specific suction cups to remove the display cover - it's held on by magnets, and if you start at the center by the iSight you can work out to the edges and remove it. I had an iPhone screen suction cup around and it helped with balancing the screen when you pull it out fully, but by no ways is it required.

    jtowner -

    Great guide and pretty straight forward the only thing that took me ages and I didn't manage to undo were the power btn cable (step 28) and the thermal sensor (step 25) Seemed like they were glued on! Very difficult to remove and obviously conscious so I didn't break anything!

    Eddie -

    Thanks!!! Worked excellently.

    I used a plunger (clean first ;-) to get the screen off, and http://exirion.net/ssdfanctrl/ for fan control.

    Then, i did not take out the whole display and left it in the hinges on the bottom side and held it up with two small cardboard boxes. Easy enough to disconnect the hdd then.

    I replaced with an ssd, put that into a ssd enclosure. Had to drill an extra hole in it to fasten the pins that hold it in place.

    Used Carbon Copy Cloner to make an image from the old hdd, with the sad connected via usb. Checked it of it booted via System Preferences > Startup Disk. It worked so the took the imac apart and replaced the disk. Booted, everything was working as always, only faster!

    Frank303 -

    I'm replacing my optical drive too. what exactly needs to be plugged into the SSD? I don't have the kit - as I am not sure one is required if I buy something like this: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0056OB...

    Can you please advise? Can I do it with this piece, or do I need to get the entire bracket kit?

    Allen Borza -

    My display data cable forks, with a smaller section going up near the camera board. Where it forks, it is attached to the aluminum plate that attaches around the cpu board. I haven't seen any images that look similar, and I'm stumped at how to remove this second section of the cable. 2010 i7 build to order

    Awolf -

    Agree with the other comments here. Despite buying suction cups, not sure they were necessary as the screen removed very easily. A sat nav suction cup would do the job fine.

    Stuart Bloomfield -

    I can confirm that it is possible to remove the front glass using fingernails rather than suction cups. It isn’t easy, but if you try you should be able to pry off the glass.

    I did this twice: once at the beginning of the procedure and once again at the end, when I realized that a big pice of lint was trapped under the glass.

    gordonhamachi -

    Don’t use suction cups. totally unnecessary. screen pops off with fingernails.

    Kieran Hobbs -

    The reason for caution about suction cups tends to be making sure you don’t apply uneven pressure on the edges of the glass and crack it in the process of removal. I do agree however that some pretty small suction cups would do fine. These suction cups can be had at your local princess auto (Harbor freight) for a few bucks and are useful elsewhere as well. if you use your fingernails or other items just try and do it evenly :)

    Abirinder Brar -

    good duct tape or gaffer tape wrapped around your hands makes an excellent glass removal 'tool'. Even clear packing tape works a charm.

    Stu Blair -

    A great first step that minimizes that first gust of dust migration when the glass is lifted is to clean the glass, sides *and the back* before lifting the glass, and then lift SLOWLY. Most of that dust is already trapped inside and pulled up as the screen lifts, but with care you can keep it there (or gently vacuum out with a micro vac…).

    John -

    before starting any of this…there is a device that you can use that comes with the IFixit kit to format and either clone or restore your hard drive to the new drive…it will save you a lot of headaches..it is a SSD enclosure that you can plug into your existing computer …

    Tom Richter -

    Thanks for the instructions. Before doing this the first time, suggest to everyone, read through at least twice. This is the easiest step, as you’ll soon see. As for removing the glass, USE suction cups, either the ones the sell here, or others. DON’T skimp. Also wear gloves when handling the glass. Don’t take chances.

    ECJohansen -

    Duct tape works too!

    Dani -

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    • Hebe die Glasscheibe rechtwinklig so weit vom Display weg, dass sich die metallenen Befestigungsstifte an der Unterseite der Oberkante lösen.

    • Ziehe die Glasscheibe weg von der unteren Kante des iMac und lege sie vorsichtig beiseite.

    • Trage die Glasscheibe nicht nur an den Saughebern, da sie dir sonst runterfällt, wenn ein Saugheber sich löst.

    • Löse die Saugheber, nachdem du die Glasscheibe sicher abgelegt hast, da der Unterdruck auf Dauer das Glas beschädigen kann.

    • Denk dran, den Bildschirm und die Innenseite der Glasscheibe vor dem Wiederzusammenbau sorgfältig zu putzen, da eingeschlossener Staub oder Fingerabdrücke deutlich sichtbar sind, sobald du das Display einschaltest.

    you should do this mac up, because, for me, one of the suction cup failed, and the glass fall into the lcd screen. Now there is a big hole in it...

    Lau -

    do you still have this panel?

    Alpha Dimension -

    Reassembly: After powering on and running for a few minutes, found a large whitish patch on the screen. Persists after powerdown.

    Turned out to be condensation, though it didn't look like it - more like fine white powder rubbed in. Humidity is very high this time of the year. Fix: start airconditioner in a room, leave it running a while, take iMac in, prise open the glass again. Condensation vanishes instantly. Keep it out for a ~15 minutes running infinite loops to get iMac nicely heated up and fans running. Snap glass back.

    ganesh -

    I used a Swiffer dry cloth to get all the dust off the screen while just blowing with my mouth at a steep angle. I know I didn't get every speck, but the screen looks perfect once assembled and lit again. Removing the glass from the screen is pretty easy if you need to re-clean it.

    Jay Gillibrand -

    I used a microfiber cloth instead, which worked well. The same type as yo use to clean eye glasses, but in a larger form factor.

    Daniel -

    The Swiffer idea worked great! I just brush it over the LCD and glass panel lightly, and all dust particles are gone quickly. The screen after boot up looked beautiful. Thanks!

    dtsai2 -

    I strongly recomment to detach the suction cups while working at the rest of the steps. In my case after half an our i heart a crack noise behind me on the table... The vacuum of one of the suction cups braked the glass! maybe there should be a warning in the Repair guide

    shippe -

    I didn't crack the screen, but it popped out of the shims and then popped back in, as if the glass edge is magnetic or has steel in it to connect to magnets. Be careful with this step — it is pretty nerve-wracking, but doable!

    Alex Reynolds -

    You need a big clean surface free, or at least 2 or more free surfaces because the iMac, the glass and the LCD display are quite bulky. You'll also probably need space for a tablet or a laptop to read this guide while you are working. And don't forget room to work on the optical unit and for the tools you are going to use. I covered a large table with a double layer of bubble wrap. In my opinion it's better to put the glass face down to limit powder sticking on the internal surface.

    Roberto Blandino -

    Thanks good advice! I was wondering exactly about the working space issue!

    matteoslataper -

    I am doing this repair now. After successfully lifting off the glass panel (yay!), dust blew out of the lower open edge. So I sprayed a can of air around edges. But a poof of the “air” condensated on the LCD. Does anyone know if I can clean the LCD same as how the glass is cleaned (damp cloth with equal parts white distilled vinegar/distilled water) and if not then how?

    Amy C -

    Hi Amy,

    To clean the LCD panel, I would suggest using a clean microfiber cloth and rubbing alcohol. Distilled water can be used, but avoid regular water, which contains minerals. Make sure the microfiber cloth is absolutely clean and has no hard particles sticking on the surface, which will scratch your LCD when you wipe it.

    Wet the surface with some alcohol and gently wipe with the microfiber cloth. Wipe in one direction.

    Arthur Shi -

    I find that the LCD is not as fragile as we all think. they are very much like any LCD on a tv or monitor. There is no extra glass on the front of a monitor. Not the 23 HP Pro Displays I have anyway. I know this because I punctured one moving my video wall. so I took it apart to know how its put together. I will say, there are several 'lens’ like sheets and a reflective (silver} sheets that are the same size as the panel. and a 1/8”piece of acrylic, all behind the LCD panel. Take care with them and clean as you would your monitor.

    My suggestion is to stand the iMac up after the panel is secured back into the body of the iMac and clean while its vertical. took me 3 attempts before I realized that while laying flat the surface is large and collects dust with mind blowing speed.

    Stu Blair -

    If the LCD glass is badly cracked and broken you need to be extra careful removing as the sharp shard of broken glass can scratch/harm the underlying screen as they may “fall in or onto” the screen below.

    I found that strategically putting sheets of 8x11 paper(s) under the sharpest, largest broken sections help protect the underlying screen. A vacuum was also helpful removing some of the small glass shards.

    Mark Hilliard -

    Be advised: I did a perfect replacement of the hard drive, temperature sensor to the SSD, LCD screwed in, glass cleaned. I went to put back the final glass, I set the bottom edge in place and as I slowly moved to have the magnets take hold, they pulled the screen out of my gingerly held fingers, and smacked into place……cracking the glass! Ugh! So, on this last step, hold tight as you put the glass back in slowly. It will cost you about 40-50 bucks for a new glass (mine is on it’s way).

    R R MOOS -

    Yikes... that sucks. thanks for sharing this information. I took everyone's advice and removed and placed this back very very carefully.

    iSeeU ChilinHomie -

    Don't trust the suction cups after you remove the screen cover. Used both hands to hold this piece carefully!

    iSeeU ChilinHomie -

  3. gykuFKp3jcvy5WbA

    • Entferne die acht T10 Torx Schrauben, die das Display am Rahmen befestigen.

    The replacement display I received did not have a bracket around the edges so I can reinstall it. On the old display, it seems the bracket is screwed in, but even with all screws removed, I cannot get it to budge. Is there a trick? Is this even possible?

    wooten1138 -

    Reassembly: be careful with the screws! The magnets attract them and the screwdriver as well! Better to use a screwdriver without replaceable end insert. I had to use one of this second type and I struggled a lot!

    Roberto Blandino -

    https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=nB172HJeM0...

    Try this easy GPU fix before buying a new graphics card! It fixed the white screen issue on my EMC 2374.

    adamg5 -

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    • Lege den iMac vorsichtig mit der Rückseite flach hin.

    • Da zwischen dem Display und dem Rahmen sehr wenig Platz ist, benötigst du einen dünnen Haken, um das Display anzuheben. Wie im dritten Bild zu sehen haben wir uns einen aus einer Büroklammer gebastelt.

    • Hebe eine der oberen Ecken des Displays mit einem dünnen Haken am Metallrahmen leicht an.

    • Nach dem Anheben einer der Ecken halte das Display kurz und hebe auch die andere Ecke mit einem dünnen Haken leicht. Um die angehobene Ecke zu stabilisieren kannst du einen Stift von der Seite zwischen das Display und den Rahmen schieben.

    • Hebe das Display nicht zu weit aus dem Gehäuse, da die beiden Teile noch durch einige kurze Flachbandkabel verbunden sind.

    Be careful with any tool while lifting the edge of the display. Under the top left edge of the display sits the bluetooth-antenna-connector. I pulled it out while lifting. It was not such a great problem, cause i could just plug it in again. But maybe you could cut the small cable depending on the tool you use to lift.

    Gee -

    The display is quite heavy, an is fitted with a tight tolerance. I found it very difficult and dangerous, lifting it with any tool in one corner while the iMac was lying down. Instead, after removing the T10 screws, it was quite easy pulling the display out of the iMac with my fingers on both sides, while the iMac was in the upright position. By doing that, you can easily hold the display with one hand and reach for the connecting cables with the other

    Georg P -

    I broke the short ribbon cable that attaches to the inner top of the display but all the pics show the display completely removed after all cables are disconnected without the short ribbon cable intact. Does this short ribbon cable have a purpose and does it need to be reconnected? If so, how? Or is it just some worthless control put in by Apple to show its been messed with when brought back for repair? Thanks

    alligator69 -

    Simple tool to use here is long nose pliers on the corners. safer, better control.

    Kieran Hobbs -

    I just used my suction cup and pulled it out.. Slowly. No need to dig. We have to clean the screen anyway.

    Joseph Collins -

  5. EYck6cdEBnuRmGUo
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    • Ziehe vorsichtig mit deinen Fingern das vertical Sync-Kabel aus der Steckverbindung auf dem LED-Treiberboard nahe der oberen linken Ecke deines iMac.

    • Achte darauf die Steckverbindung parallel zum LED-Treiberboard, gerade nach oben aus der Fassung/Buchse zu ziehen.

    This cable is very small and fiddley to remove if you don't have much in the way of finger nails. The cables are very thin and fragile.

    James York -

    It took me a bit of work to remove this cable, it was a hassle actually. What worked for me, without any tools, was to use your index and middle fingers' nails and pull it. That worked better than the index and thumb. Took me like 15 minutes, more than what it should take.

    thefinalzeta -

    Yes, me too! It stuck terribly hard and I spent most of the time for the repair for this s**** little connector. I thought all the time, I'm gonna break it or tear off these tiny cables... All the other cables were *rather* easy-going. In the end I finally got a new SanDisk Ultra II 480 GB SSD working.

    And thanks to the SDD Fan Control app it is sooo silent. Thanks to Exirion!

    Nick van Hill -

    When the cable comes out, make note of which side has the gold contacts visible. On my cable, you could only see them from the "top" side (aka, as you look down on it). From the "bottom" or back side of the cable, you could NOT see any gold contacts. This will help to orient the cable when reconnecting it.

    markcerv -

    In my case, all the cable connectors were oriented having the golden contacts, as seen from the wide side of the connectors, oriented facing away from the board

    Georg P -

    From this point onwards I found very useful a flashlight to illuminate inside the iMac.

    Roberto Blandino -

    Take care not to pull off the socket off along with the connector as happened to me.

    Fortunately there are used pull on eBay. Even saw one that had the same socket ripped off also.

    Joel Yang -

    FYI; Cable in 27 EMC 2390 I just worked on looked different. Was simple flat connecter with nothing other than blue coloring on end. Just flat gold connectors on bottom side. These kinds are very tricky to extract and even trickier to reinsert as there is too much flex and not enough slack/room for finger/tool to get back in.

    My solution is unconventional but works. I do not remove the cables (!). I work on the floor, lying on my belly. I open slowly and carefully only as far as the cables inside will allow. Use a flashlight so you can really see clearly. Then I prop up the both sides of the display using anything the right size (box, a pair of boots…) It is crucial of course that you have things propped up securely so screen can stay a few inches up without hands! I use a very short #10 Torx so I can remove the old HD. There is barely enough room to work but it is do-able with care (and light!). As I am usually putting in an SSD these days, I simply use electrical tape to secure it. Close slowly. Test

    Jed Wevaer -

    READ ABOVE ^^^. Don’t risk the other cable removals, just remove and replace drive here. Saved me a ton of worry

    Roger Dewsbury -

    Perfect Idea. Even better if you use a table, quite traditional but still today useful invention: you don’t have to work lying in the floor. Makes it a lot more comfortable. To keep the screen propped up I used two wooden sticks of about 20 cm length with small feet made out of cork to make the construction more stable. I only removed the vertical Sync-cable, otherwise you cannot lift the screen that high.

    The rest was quite easy. Thanxalot.

    jozip renk -

    My cable was also taped to the inside of the case which made the cable VERY tight. Make sure to pull the cable loose from the case before lifting the display much at all.

    Rob Winchell -

  6. 6GY6c2vWvWfwXekt

    • Drücke die beiden Pins des Displaykabels zusammen, um es aus seinem Anschluss auf dem Logic Board zu befreien.

    • Ziehe den Stecker des Displaykabels aus dem Anschluss auf dem Logic Board.

    This connection is very fragile, and many people have broken the display connector on the logic board. You need to carefully pull the connector out, and when putting it back together, you need to carefully push the connector back in.

    pmah -

    i did break mine. do you know where to buy that component?

    Cris -

    In my iMac the cable was stuck to the structure of the computer with a piece of foam tape. Pulling it very gently, gradually it detached with no damages.

    Roberto Blandino -

    I pulled a bit too hard and metal cover over the module attached to the logic board came off from one side exposing metal teeth. To my surprise I managed to put it back. Even bigger surprise Mac works just fine!

    Wojtek -

    I managed to damage mine also .. but, it was probably already damaged by Apple when they replaced a recall hard drive. I managed to fix it like Wojtek. had to re-solder tabs to the logic board. Would like to find a dead logic board and de-solder the connector for a spare; however, I think all the little pins fall out if you try that … SIGH!

    Michael Lambert -

    I also broke this socket. I am able to fit it back over all the pins correctly and reattach the thing using electrical tape to hold i down. However, I see no display (nor backlight) when I turn on the computer. It does chime. Not sure if I got contact with the outer tabs (non pints). Should the backlight turn on even if this cable is unplugged since there is a separate back light cable?

    max -

    I had the exact same thing happen. Were you able to get it working?

    meburt02 -

    Be VERY CAREFUL when removing this cable and also putting it back.

    DistroHopper39F -

    Attention avant de déconnecter la prise de la carte mère, le câble peut être collé sur la partie métallique de la carte vidéo (le bras en aluminium avec des croisillons). Le mieux (de mon point de vue) est de chauffer avec un sèche-cheveux la colle sous de la nappe pour la faire ramollir, tout en insérant un médiator afin de décoller la nappe petit à petit en descendant vers le fond du mac (du haut vers le bas) puis d’exercer une pression sur les deux bras du connecteur pour le libérer de la prise sur la carte mère.

    Cancan -

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    • Hebe das Display weit genug aus dem Gehäuse, um das Kabel der LED Hintergrundbeleuchtung vom LED-Board zu trennen.

    You need to squeeze the connector top to unlatch, then pull it parallel to the LED backlight board.

    Charlie -

    Here I used the flat end of a spudger to unlatch the connector top.

    Roberto Blandino -

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    • Hebe das Display weit genug an, um das Kabel des LCD-Temperatursensors von seinem Anschluss auf dem Logic Board trennen zu können.

    • Wenn dein Lüfter nach dem Wiederzusammenbau mit voller Geschwindigkeit dreht, überprüfe dieses Kabel und das Kabel des Festplatten-Temperatursensors.

    Before you take/remove the LCD thermal sensor cable connector from its socket, make a note of which color cable is on the left, and which is on the right. When I removed the cable, the black cable was leftmost, and the grey cable was rightmost.

    markcerv -

    I replaced hard drive and added a second SSD on a 2010 27" iMac. Everything seemed fine for about a year, and now the fans run continuously. I think it's this cable in Step 8; I'll get around to opening it up to check.

    pigeonf16 -

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    • Ziehe das Display vorsichtig Richtung oberer Kante des iMac und hebe es aus dem Gehäuse.

    And if the panel has no frame? How you unattach the frame from the old panel to place it on the new one?

    Daria Drozd -

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    • Entferne die vier Torx T10 Schrauben, welche das optische Laufwerk am äußeren Gehäuse befestigen.

    Is it possible to use the DVD drive after installing the SSD, or is there no space left?

    Joel -

    Yes, it is possible. The SSD fits below the dvd drive; it doesn't replace it

    Dan -

  11. DgBKVDwBG5aVgdNS

    • Ziehe den Verbinder des Thermosensors vom optischen Laufwerk gerade aus seinem Sockel auf dem Logic Board heraus.

    This step is not necessary. I have problems with the pulling out, and found that it's not necessary to out it in this case.

    Steve -

    Agreed. Leave it plugged in and peel the buffer tape and temp sensor off the optical drive assembly while it's still in the computer.

    John Lavenia -

    What problems did you have?

    Toni Marmol -

    Don't do that! It's not necessary to pull the sensor cable out. And it cost me an hour to find out that it was this sensor cable and not the LCD sensor cable that made the fans spin at 3000+rpm. The less sensor cables you remove, the easier to find the culprit if you stumble into fan issues.

    bhager -

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    • Setze einen Spudger zwischen dem Stecker des optischen Laufwerks und dem optischen Laufwerk ein.

    • Verdrehe den Spudger, um den Stecker leicht vom Laufwerk zu lösen, ziehe ihn dann mit den Fingern ganz ab.

    Hello, is the sata & power cabla from the mac can directly feet inside the SSD?

    Roman Quenin -

    Can the superdrive connector cable (possibly just SATA and SATA power bundled) be used for SSD? I wanted to replace the superdrive completely with an SSD, and thus having in total 2 SSDs and one HDD inside the iMac. Thanks in advance.

    Krisna -

    There is another SATA connector on the back side of the logic board for an SSD.

    Neal Sofge -

  13. q53pwUVhpfY1CeWA

    • Hebe die linke Kante des optischen Laufwerks etwas an und ziehe es von der rechten Seite des äußeren Gehäuses weg.

    • Achte beim Zusammenbau darauf, dass sich in der Frontplatte des optischen Laufwerks zwei Löcher befinden. In diese müssen zwei recht dicke Plastikzapfen passen, damit das Laufwerk richtig sitzt.

  14. 4bXRdjFWVCyGEwGy

    • Schiebe vorsichtig das hintere I/O Flachbandkabel beiseite, um den Stecker zum Lüfter des optischen Laufwerks, der darunterliegt, freizulegen.

    • Löse den Stecker, indem du ihn aus seinem Sockel auf dem Logic Board ziehst.

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    • Eine einzelne Torx T10 Schraube befestigt den Lüfter des optischen Laufwerks am Gehäuse. Drehe sie heraus.

    • Ziehe den Lüfter des optischen Laufwerks weg vom Gehäuse, um ihn so aus den drei Plastikstiften an seinem Rand zu heben.

    • Bewege den Lüfter des optischen Laufwerks vorsichtig aus dem iMac, achte dabei daruf, dass sich keine Kabel verfangen.

Abschluss

Um dein Gerät wieder zusammenzusetzen, folge den Schritten in umgekehrter Reihenfolge.

Tinte & Feder

Walter Galan

685541 Reputation

3 Kommentare

Go slow, and take your time. Easy as long as you do not rush it.

Kevin McCartney -

Wish a view of the back of the fan was included to determine what fan specs are needed for replacement. ifixit doesn’t have the part.

Wizbang FL -

The fan optical fan connector has four metal contacts. These face up when reinstalling the connector. IMPORTANT

matthew -