iPad 2 CDMA linke Mobilfunkantenne tauschen

Geschrieben von: Jake Devincenzi
  • Kommentare: 195
iPad 2 CDMA linke Mobilfunkantenne tauschen

Schwierigkeitsgrad

Sehr schwierig

Schritte

59

Zeitaufwand

Keine Schätzung

Einleitung

Hier wird der Austausch der linken Mobilfunkantenne gezeigt.

Teile dieser Anleitung wurden mit dem Wi-Fi Modell erstellt. Daher können die Teile im Mobilfunkmodell leicht anders aussehen. Die Vorgehensweise ist bei beiden Modellen die gleiche. Ausnahmen sind entsprechen notiert.

  1. PFpjwVSYrnq3JQap
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    • Wir empfehlen die Mikrowelle vor dem Gebrauch zu reinigen, da sonst Essensreste oder Ähnliches am iOpener hängenbleiben können.

    • Lege den iOpener in die Mitte der Mikrowelle.

    • Für sich drehende Mikrowellen: Stelle sicher, dass der Teller sich drehen kann. Wenn der iOpener hängenbleibt kann er überhitzen und sogar Feuer fangen.

    I didn't find this to be as hard as I had built it up in my mind to be; HOWEVER, saying that I need to say years ago I was the local Nokia service center in my town. But many years ago right after they got rid of analog times. Yeah. A classic installer/repairer mistake when starting something they haven't fixed or installed before is picking up the instructions, flipping through them; maybe even reading a section that is new-then tossing the instructions over the shoulder. "I got this." This usually comes right before something major gets broke. And I can tell you when you try to do it yourself and then mess it up horribly then take it to the repair shop. Well we called that "I can do it myself" syndrome and charged extra to put back together what they brought in in the box. Now knowing all this - I can't stress this enough because I am stupid, stupid, stupid. COVER YOUR SCREEN IN CLEAR BOXING TAPE AND READ ALL THE INSTRUCTION BELOW THROUGH TO THE END BEFORE EVEN ATTEMPTING THIS FIX. Take my advise.

    windizy -

    I didn't have an iOpener, so I used a wheat type heat bag. If you do this though, make sure you put a layer of plastic between your Mac and the bag, or you'll get condensation in places you don't want it.

    Martin Gray -

    I started out using the iOpener but switched to my wife's hairdryer. A heat gun or hair dryer proved to be much more convenient and is a time saviour. You can heat more and the glue becomes more fluid make the next steps with the opening picks much easier

    Jan Van Puymbroeck -

    I know this is obvious, but backup your iPad with iTunes before you start. I'd also turn off your passcode if you have one.

    Laurie Higgins -

    Ther first time you heat up the iOpener for this repair when its room temperature I had to heat it up for more than 30 seconds. I remember I had to heat it up for around 45 seconds. However, after that when you need to reheat it again during the repair 30 seconds will be enough.

    Yousef Ghalib -

    I used the wheat bag in a sensor microwave heating up to 65-70 deg C (155 def F).

    ian cheong -

    Get yourself a cherry pit bean bag the size of your iPad. Heat it, put the iPad on it for 3 to 5 minutes or so, reheat the cherry pit bean bag, again put your iPad on it. Then heat the iOpener and start working. The cherry pit bean bag will have to be reheated several times, but it will soften the adhesive so you have less problems with the iOpener

    Tim Feyaerts -

    The heating can be done very effectively (and quickly) with 3d printer heated bed. Make sure the bed is clean. Set the temperature to 60c, (130f ) and put the ipad face down for +/- 10 minutes. Repeat as needed throughout the “gentle prying” stages.

    polleyphony -

    The iOpener did not work at all for me.

    I had to use a heat gun and bring the edges of the case up to ~200 degrees (used an infrared thermometer to measure) before the glue would weaken. This obviously superheated the metal frame, so I also had to wear gloves to handle the phone while prying the back off with the included picks.

    Mike Jeanette -

    Repair instructions worked like a charm. Had to be patient with the iOpener and getting the screen off. I tried repeatedly without success until shifting the suction cup a bit to the left side where perhaps the glue had loosened up a bit more.

    Kyle -

    The iOpener, in my opinion, is of no help. Many warnings to say “don’t warm it too much”, but the glue doesn’t melt if not warm enough. As a result, a complete waste of time and energy. In addition, too much liquid in it, so it doesn’t lay on the device on a sufficient surface. I took a hairdryer and it worked much much better.

    laurentvidu -

    I used an immersion bath to heat this to 180F and applied it to the device until the outside temperature of the opener read 150F with an IR thermometer. Removing the screen took very little force with this method.

    breadandbits -

    My experience. I was replacing the screen which had been cracked and a little shattered in some places. The iopener is pretty much useless, so was the suction cup. The suction cup would probably be more useful if I was doing something besides the screen. Also you probably want the clean the screen before using it so it can get good suction. I used a hair dryer on high for a couple of minutes at a time (someone on this tread suggested that). I used my exacto knife and a razor blade to get into the adhesive. First the exacto to get the initial cut, then the razor blade to go a little deeper. Could have probably just used the razor blade, but the exacto has a little more finesse. I got the razor blade in and a little under the glass then I used the picks to wedge in. I didn’t want to risk anything using the razor blade too much. Used tape to keep the shattered glass together.

    trebor65 -

    My experience pt2

    Fortunately the shattering was mostly on the edges and most of it had adhesive on the back so it stuck together. Just take your time and work your way around following the guide to get the screen off. Have some goof off or goo be gone to clean the frame when putting the new glass on or putting the existing one back. (someone suggested that also, very good idea). Be careful of the LCD (you should know that). The cable on my LCD was pretty tight, so I propped it up while taking the cable cover off and when I put it back on I did the same thing. I just put a bottle on the battery and leaned the back of the LCD on that while attaching the cables and putting the screws back on the cover. Also be careful with the home button and the bracket on the back of it. I had enough old adhesive on left on the bracket that it stuck back to the new glass fine. So far only 12 hours in, so we will see how that holds up when the kids get at it.

    trebor65 -

    Another alternative if you do not have the iopener is to use a bed time hotwater bottle. Do not over fill it though. Just put enough hot water in to support the phone while you work around the adhesive.

    I use both the hot water bottle and iopener together on Samsung's. It makes life easier

    gazza667 -

    I followed the directions and heated my iOpener for 30 seconds in a 1000 watt microwave, and it came out at 160 degrees F, as verified by a infrared thermometer. This allowed me to separate the last bit of the back of my Samsung S8, which was already coming off due to a swollen battery (hence the reason for the repair).

    Dennis -

    Hallo,habe den Akku erfolgreich getauscht.Doch seitdem gibt es bei Telefonaten eine Rückkopplung für den anrufenden.Bei mir ist alles normal.Woran liegt das?Mfg

    Manu R -

    If you follow these instructions, you will crack your screen like I did. Heating the iOpener for 30 seconds, using it to melt glue, then waiting 10 minutes to reheat is useless. The iOpener can be used to maybe warm the glue on whatever side you aren’t working on. You need a hairdryer and/or a heat gun to melt the glue and separate the glass from the iPad.

    Anyone want to buy an old iPad with broken glass and a dead battery?

    mpulliam -

    Not everybody has a microwave. You should provide a target temperature for the iOpener and instructions for a conventional oven, or pot of warm water, or whatever. Although I will probably use a heat gun …

    Esmond Pitt -

    Three times heating opener and no luck. Tried pressing down gently on opener with a towel, and the opener broke. Wondering if I now replace table mats, fancy table cloth, etc. or will this stuff wash out.

    Not impressed so far. Maybe the hair dryer next.

    doug -

    I support the comments about the iOpener. Everyone has a hair drier, FHS, so get a cheap IR thermometer (£18) and blow heat until the area is 60+ deg C. Still takes w while, and getting the screen off is v scary, but just add more heat if you feel resistance.

    The rest of the kit is good, esp the magnetic screwdrivers.

    Richard O'Brien -

    No, everyone does not have a hairdryer. Some of us don’t even have hair. Thank goodness I already had an IR thermometer, though.

    nin10doh -

    #### WARNUNG WENN MINIMALSTER SPRUNG IM DISPLAY IST FUNKTIONERT DAS NICHT!!! ######

    Hatte einen winzigen, minimalen Sprung im Display. Ich dachte es könnte gehen, weil der Sprung “abgeschlossen” war. Er hat in einer Ecke ein winzige Glasteil rausgeschnitten. NEIN! Geht nicht. Habe alles mit viel Geduld dem iOpener und einem Föhn erhitzt. Es ist trotzdem sofort über das komplette Display zersprungen…

    T z -

    I’ve started with iOpener but changed very quickly to a heatgun. That was more efficient.

    Mizzoo, s.r.o. -

    I could not get the iOpener hot enough to melt the glue on my ipad 6. I heated for 45 seconds once and it was boiling and it still never worked. Thank goodness contributors mentioned using a hair dryer. Using an 1700w hair dryer on high did the trick to get the screen off. Still took some time and the case got pretty hot but be patient. It took twice as long and a lot more patience to get the battery out.

    Randal Haufler -

    I have an Ipad with touch screen issue, if i replace this part it should be Ok?

    janderson martin -

    WARNING - DO NOT MICROWAVE ON A METAL MICROWAVE RACK

    The metal microwave rack can heat up and melt through the iOpener cover letting the contents leak out.

    Not a big issue for me as I have a heat gun and used that instead.

    Run Up A Tree -

    I opened my iPad with the iOpener. Be patient! It may take quite a bit longer to it the iOpener in the microwave than it says in the guide. My microwave can only do 800W and I had to put the iOpener in several times (maybe a total of 90-120 seconds). I recommend that you have the transparent side up an watch the bag carefully. As long a the bag doesn't bloat up and the liquid doesn't start bubbling you should be fine. But I recommend to take the iO out from time to time to check it. (More comments in Step 6.)

    marcelflueeler -

    I gave upon the I opener and used a hairdryer. (Fixed an iPad 6)

    Tom Weber -

    iPad mini gen5. I used the iOpener. My microwave is 1200w with carousel. 30 sec got the iOpener to 155ºF. For the 2nd heating, after 10 minutes sitting, the temp was still around 125º so I only cooked it for 15 sec. Not enough increase so +5 sec more which me to 165-170ºF. This should be considered ballpark info because who knows the real output of the various microwaves and the quality of the IR tool used to determine temp.

    To successfully open my iPad mini I applied the iOpener twice to the left edge and twice to bottom. & once to R edge. Using the suction cup was difficult for me (I'm in my 70's so my hands don't work too well anymore). I had trouble holding the guitar pick and slipping them in (at an downward angle). In the end, sliding my thumbnail along the edge opened it very slightly and allowed the pick to get into the gap. I marked the ends of all my picks with a sharpie pen for the recommended 2mm insertion to avoid going in too deep. To get the screen open it took me approx 1 hour.

    jharrison -

  2. ylYXoFMbBeXNAIyj

    • Erhitze den iOpener für dreißig Sekunden.

    • Im Verlauf der Reparatur kühlt sich der iOpener wieder ab. Erhitze ihn dann noch einmal für dreißig Sekunden.

    • Achte darauf, den iOpener während der Reparatur nicht zu überhitzen. Eine Überhitzung bringt den iOpener möglicherweise zum Platzen.

    • Berühre niemals den iOpener, falls er aufgeschwollen aussieht.

    • Falls der iOpener in der Mitte immer noch zu heiß ist, um ihn anzufassen, dann benutze ihn weiter, bis er ein wenig herunter gekühlt ist, bevor du ihn erneut erhitzt. Ein ordnungsgemäß erhitzter iOpener sollte für bis zu 10 Minuten warm bleiben.

    I had to heat mine up for more than 30 seconds. After 30 seconds on high it was only warm. It had to keep trying different times and checking it until it got hot. I think the initial time that I put it in for was over a minute.

    whale13 -

    DO NOT USE IN NON ROTATING MICROWAVE! It will pop a hole. I had it in for 45 seconds the first time. It wasn't very hot inside and I saw it started to leak on the paper towel I put under it. Just a fair bit of advice. I think I will just stick with the heat gun. Loud but useful.

    Alex Jackson -

    I heated mine up for 30 seconds, tested, then again for 30 seconds. It felt adequately hot. Leaving it on the left side, per the instruction, for a minute did not loosen the adhesive. I ended up pulling the suction cup hard enough to shadder the old screen. Moral of the story, I don't think it gets hot enough safely to have an affect.

    Travis Dixon -

    There is a clear problem here with the heating part using the iopener things....no details are given. Whoever is testing them needs to make it clear - What temperature does it need to be? And for which phone models, because they differ in what's needed. It's only £10-15 for a laser guided temp sensor unit, and the designers/repairers should have one of those already for doing these kinds of repairs. Explaining half a repair, is worse than not explaining at all :-(

    assortedrubbish -

    All phones/devices differ it’s unrealistic and unsafe to put a exact time/temperature needed to soften the adhesive. It’s really quite simple you warm the device evenly and in a controlled manner just enough to enable pry tools and picks to begin separating. Best tool in my opinion but again this is because I have experience is a hot plate and heat gun both of which are used at nearly the lowest settings and I can handle flat palming the plate for almost 10 seconds I leave the device to conduct heat until approx it’s about 110 at most 120 ish this will be plenty to soften all the adhesive if any problem areas I use heat gun while prying. Again you need go slowly and learn with a throw away phone

    Greg Latta -

    I used a hot water bottle, works well as it covers the whole screen and stays hot for longer.

    dave -

    If I may suggest include your microwave wattage so people can get an idea on time for there own

    Patrick Storey -

    I agree with this.

    Jarl Friis -

    I ended up using a hair dryer. That iOpener thing took forever.

    mark fitzgerald -

    30 seconds sure isn’t cutting it… 45 didn’t get the screen of my iPad air 2 to budge either… even after resting on the ipad for 4 minutes.

    60 seconds in the microwave, the iOpener burst.

    I’ll get a new one and try once more with heating it 45 seconds and repeat that for 30 minutes like others have said here. If that doesn’t work it’ll have to be the heat gun.

    K

    Karl Marble -

    I can’t recommend the microwave. If the the iOpener becomes too hot, it bursts. Better put the opener in cooking water. Dry it and use it. Instead of an iOpener you can use hot/cool packs as well.

    Bernhard Keim -

    Great idea with using the heat packs. I will try that next time. Thank you

    Collins -

    Trust the directions! I forgot and left it in the Microwave too long and after 1 minute I had Mt Vesuvius - the iOpener burst and spewed the goodies out. The problem is, the Digitizer can be damaged by a hot air gun, so I had to tough out and remove the glue the hard way. I made it … with lots of patience! Tough lesson.

    Larry Bennett -

    I also used a hairdryer. I used it on the low setting and I cut a piece of carboard to protect the rest of the screen. The iFixit tool and method is vert tedious and very time consuming in comparison. With the hairdryer method you can literally have the display apart in a few minutes. Using your other hand nearby the area you are heating it should be very hot but not enough to burn your hand. You only have to heat metal part of case near glass edge. If you have a cellular model then you need to be very careful because the black antenna area is plastic. So less heat and work your way up in adding heat just enough to separate around the area but not so much you melt the plastic!

    Fixrights -

    iOpener was the worst part of the kit. Followed directions for :30 in microwave and took 4 trips to the microwave to loosen adhesive on left side of home button. I thought I was figuring it out and it was working well… even set a timer to wait 10 minutes between heating it up. Was on the right side and was on my 12th heat up when it exploded in the microwave. My only tip is that if you set it clear side up, as soon as you see any bubbles or boiling in the liquid, STOP! If you put a pot holder over the iOpener and press slightly to make good surface contact, that seemed to help. I finished heating with a “Corn Sack” that held heat better than the provided iOpener.

    digital_only -

    Mon iopener n'a pas tenu une réparation. Je ne vous conseille pas ce produit

    Berard Romain -

    Bonjour,

    Nous sommes désolés que votre réparation ne se soit pas déroulée comme prévu. Il se peut que le produit était défectueux. Veuillez contacter notre service client support@ifixit.com (boutique américaine) ou eustore@ifixit.com (boutique européenne) en décrivant ce qui s’est passé.

    Claire Miesch -

    Readers looking for temperature advice might check the comments of the previous instruction, as there are more there. I used an immersion bath to heat this to 180F and applied it to the device until the outside temperature of the opener read 150F with an IR thermometer. Removing the screen took very little force with this method.

    breadandbits -

    Thank you for posting some actual temperatures. I have a heat gun with a very fine self-temperature regulation setting capability.

    I will set it for 150-180 F, and use that to soften the adhesive.

    G Trieste -

    Get a heat gun.

    alesha adamson -

    I followed the directions and heated my iOpener for 30 seconds in a 1000 watt microwave, and it came out at 160 degrees F, as verified by a infrared thermometer. A second heating about 15 minutes later in the micro and it came out at 190 degrees F. Plenty hot enough to soften the adhesive for removing the back on my S8. Based on the comments above I think people just need to use more patience.

    Dennis -

    I used various time settings. It got very hot. It would soften the glue but not a whole lot. If my screen had been intact and I was replacing something that was not a digitizer, it may have worked. A broken screen makes the process significantly more difficult. I ended up breaking the home button cable. Good bye TouchID…

    cvela90 -

    After reading previous comments I didn't even use the i-opener. Used the heatgun ( hairdryer ) which works great for me. Maybe I was lucky as this is my first attempt at replacing a cellphone battery. Motoz 3

    Collins -

    It appeared 30 seconds were not enough, so I heated it more, by 5 seconds at a time until I got the right temperature about 70 degrees Celsius (measured with infrared pistol) to get the screen heated up to 60 C, the best for softening the glue. But the heat was quickly dissipating by the big aluminum back cover, so the best I got in 2 minutes of applying iOpener was around 45 C, which made the procedure difficult and having risk of breaking the screen. So I eventually abandoned iOpener and user a hot air gun with precise temperature setup. I set it to 90 C, which allowed me to open my iPad quickly and safely.

    Sergey Kofanov -

    I, too, ended up using a hot air gun. I’ve done earlier versions of iPad before but the adhesive used on this IPad 5 A1822 was particularly difficult to remove.

    Also, while the suction cup worked great when the glass is in tact, any cracks in the glass make the suction cup useless.

    manningrl -

    You need to remember here are different sizes of microwaves. I had the same issue.

    Heating on a smaller unit I used 45-60 seconds. That worked but was time comsuming

    William Draheim -

  3. Q3OPkaQyxV6cdnx3

    • Halte den iOpener an einem der flachen Enden und vermeide die heiße Mitte, während du ihn aus der Mikrowelle nimmst.

    • Der Beutel wird sehr heiß, sei vorsichtig beim Gebrauch. Lege dir am besten einen Topflappen bereit.

    I did this repair. I used a hair dryer, I think it works better: gets very hot fast.

    Cobus de Beer -

    I did too, you get far more control and no expense on fancy equipment.

    Billinski -

    Readers looking for temperature advice might check the comments of the previous instruction, as there are more there. I used an immersion bath to heat this to 180F and applied it to the device until the outside temperature of the opener read 150F with an IR thermometer. Removing the screen took very little force with this method. I don’t know how much microwaves vary in heating consistency with these pads, but knowing how inconsistent the temperature of a bowl of plain rice gets in my microwave, I wasn’t interested in even trying to use it for this.

    breadandbits -

    I used an electric griddle set to the lowest setting. It seemed to work very well.

    John -

    I vote for the hair dryer. The other methods work too but if you aren’t having any luck, switch to the hair dryer. While holding the iPad in my hand, I found that I am aiming the dryer at my finger at the same time and it gauges how hot it is. I stop when my finger can’t take it - maybe five seconds up close. Repeat as needed like I did.

    Robin -

    This thing melts when placed up side down in the microwave…

    Mark -

    If the maximum temperature for this iOpener is lower than the gadget glue minimum temperature, this device does not make sense.
    I think the maximum temperature for this iOpener is below 100⁰C and most gadget glue minimum temperature is higher than 100⁰C. So the iOpener is useless for many opening steps in repair guides. But who knows because temperature range is not specified for this iOpener.

    Jarl Friis -

  4. 2Nj3CEcEUHn2EtLQ
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    • Solltest du keine Mikrowelle haben oder benutzen wollen, folge diesem Schritt, um den iOpener in kochendem Wasser zu erhitzen.

    • Fülle einen Topf oder eine tiefe Pfanne mit ausreichend Wasser, um den iOpener komplett damit bedecken zu können.

    • Erhitze das Wasser (ohne den iOpener) bis es kocht. Schalte die Wärmezufuhr (Platte) aus.

    • Lege den iOpener für etwa 2-3 Minuten in das heiße Wasser. Stelle sicher, dass der iOpener komplett mit Wasser bedeckt ist.

    • Nimm den iOpener mit einer Küchenzange aus dem Wasser heraus.

    • Trockne den iOpener gründlich mit einem Küchen- oder Handtuch ab.

    • Der iOpener speichert die Hitze, und ist daher sehr heiß. Sei vorsichtig, und halte den iOpener nur an den Endlaschen, nicht in der Mitte.

    • Der iOpener kann jetzt verwendet werden. Solltest du den iOpener erneut erwärmen müssen, erhitze das Wasser nochmal bis zum Siedepunkt, schalte die Wärmezufuhr aus, und lege den iOpener wieder für 2-3 Minuten vollständig in das Wasser.

    What do I do if I don’t have a iopener?

    alexdelarge103@gmail.com -

    Use a hair dryer

    Edited To the max -

    2 or 3 cups Rice in a sock, heat for about 2 minutes. But, I recommend the iopener.

    Robert Garcia -

    When boiling in water you can put the iopener in a ziplock to keep it dry.

    Robert Garcia -

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    • Wenn das Displayglas gesprungen ist, versuche die Splitter unter Verschluss zu halten und Verletzungen während der Reparatur zu vermeiden, indem du das Glas mit Tape zusammenhälst.

    • Lege sich überlappende Streifen aus durchsichtigem Packtape über das iPad Display, bis die ganze Oberfläche bedeckt ist.

    • Dadurch werden Glasscherben unter Verschluss gehalten und bauliche Intaktheit beim Hebeln und Display anheben sichergestellt.

    • Gib dein Bestes, um den Rest der Anleitung wie beschrieben zu folgen. Da das Glas jedoch, sobald es einmal gebrochen ist, höchstwahrscheinlich weiter zersplittern wird, brauchst du eventuell ein metallenes Hebelwerkzeug, um das Glas herauszudrücken.

    • Trage eine Sicherheitsbrille, um deine Augen zu schützen und gebe darauf acht, das LCD nicht zu beschädigen.

    Yes...wear safety glasses for sure when doing this!

    Josh West -

    If you have ANY cracks FOR SURE do the tape. I would also make sure to wear safety glasses as it can fly all over even with the tape. And do it somewhere that you don't mind tiny glass shards going everywhere. I had one 3 inch crack in the glass in the lower right corner and it started spidering. The plastic pics don't work once well once they hit a broken point in the glass so you better have a lot of heat to loosen the adhesive, or you end up using an exacto knife to get around the cracked spots.

    jesseokerlund -

    On a few occasions I had an unexpected pop as the glass shattered and little shards struck me in the face. I had taped the surface but pieces at the edge still managed to break free. My advice: definitely wear the safety glasses, and definitely tape the entire glass surface.

    robertmhussey -

    Echo jesseokerlund's comments that you will have glass flying. I made the mistake of doing the repair at my kitchen table and had a lot of cleanup to do. The job would be much easier if there was no broken glass, and the hardest part is where the glass is broken right next to the bezel. I used the metal spudger to work those pieces free, but it takes some time.

    robertmhussey -

    + 1 on the safety glass, I almost got hurt while doing this.

    alexisfogel -

    I followed all the safety precautions mentioned: tape, safety glasses… The best advice I saw on this is to put the iPad in the sun for a few minutes. I placed mine on the windshield of my car in direct sunlight for about 5 minutes. I also used the iOpener to keep heat on the edges I wasn’t working on. I was able to easily remove the glass without any shards flying in about 30-40 minutes total. Great advice and safest way I’ve seen to remove broken glass.

    Robert Jenkins -

  6. 5NdlBiqsqnZsyMFx

    • Nochmal, da du im Laufe der Demontage eventuell mit zersplittertem Glas arbeitest, empfehlen wir dringend eine Sicherheitsbrille, um deine Augen vor umherfliegenden Glassplittern zu schützen.

    • Lege den iOpener flach auf die rechte Kante des iPads und glätte es, sodass ein guter Kontakt zwischen der iPad- und der iOpener-Oberfläche besteht.

    • Lasse den Beutel etwa 90 Sekungen auf dem iPad liegen, bevor du versuchst, das Front Panel zu öffnen.

    It is ver likely that the glass you are trying to replace is broken, and this is tempered glass therefore it will chatter in many small pieces while you are working on it. Take this safety advice very seriously and protect your eyes!!! The glass pieces fly everywhere. AGAIN: PROTECT YOUR EYES!!!! BE SAFE!!!

    McGiord -

    This last statement cannot be underemphasized! I got two shards of very fine glass into my right eye, luckily got them out right away, before reaching for the safety goggles! Later on, I removed them again because working w/ the small parts was easier. Protect your eyes, people!

    Lou Bomski -

    Just use some scotch wide transparent tape and cover the broken screen BEFORE you start to taking it apart. It will hold all the shards together and nothing will fly around.

    Vatevaaa -

    I covered the screen in clear packing tape to control glass particles.

    I placed the ipad outside in direct afternoon sunlight for an hour and all of the adhesive was softened quite well.....the screen was off in just a few minutes !

    John -

    This is a very good idea John, I wish I'd seen this comment before I spent hours picking tiny bits of glass off the glue!

    Tom Scott -

    Thumbs up for this tip. I left it out in the sun for 15 min only and it worked a treat. I used a razor blade. The plastic tools are next to useless.

    olafgoy -

    I had some issues after replacing this cable.

    Once I had it in and back together only the down volume was working, and shortly after the gyro gave out.

    I ended up going to where the new cable connects to the board, removing it, then replacing it as gently as possible. Not too firm.

    I also removed a foam spacer in that area because it was pushed out over the gyro board.

    Now I'm back to full functionality!

    clatekeen -

    me 2 my volumen up doesn't work and the switch sound/silent any fix?

    Zadd -

    Badly broken screen, taped and warmed about 15 minutes on heating pad set on high. Perfect, gentle, overall warming! Mark the front with Sharpie, ie WiFi, cable, etc. Used thin metal iSes... type tool and guitar pics. BUY NEW Plastic bezel!!! So super cheap. Rewarm on heating pad as necessary. Compressed air helpful to blow away tiny glass bits. Wear glasses! Take breaks! This is easy if you warm carefully and are patient!

    Max -

    I am in the process of replacing a shattered screen on an iPad 3 wifi, and I literally was removing glass piece by piece! I do recommend having a roll of wide clear sealing tape at hand. Then, when you see loose glass shards, pull off about 4 to 5 inches, and stick the tape to pick up the loose glass, and once in a while, fold the tape onto itself (sticky to sticky side), and set it aside. This helps keep it from getting everywhere. Also, spread news paper under your work. Some people don't really think of these things, but the fact is, hardened glass will find its way into your skin very easily. Extremely sharp!

    dbrown900 -

    Have not attempted this repair on my wife's iPad 2, but is there a reason that you put the iOpener on top of the device rather than putting the device on top of the iOpener? After all, heat rises.

    Stephen Weber -

    Can someone please explain which is the right side of the ipad?

    padeacon -

    loll... that's a good one.

    Alex -

  7. 2PSPcOUgDDCBWQiO
    2PSPcOUgDDCBWQiO
    rGJqvVQ4gi42cJDp
    4AaeEduLCNDRkMvO

    • Der Klebering weist in der oberen rechten Ecke des iPads, etwa 5 cm von der oberen Kante entfernt, eine kleine Lücke auf. Diese Schwäche wirst du ausnutzen.

    • Richte das Werkzeug auf die Stummtaste aus. Führe die Spitze eines Plastic Opening Tools in die Lücke zwischen dem Frontglas und der Kunststoffeinfassung. Führe nur die äußerste Spitze des Öffnungswerkzeuges ein, gerade weit genug um den Spalt zu weiten.

    • Es kann einige Kraft fordern, die verkeilte Spitze des Öffnungswerkzeuges zwischen Glas und Kunststoff zu bekommen. Bleibe geduldig und sei vorsichtig, wenn das Plastic Opening Tool vor und zurück bewegst, falls das notwendig ist.

    there is the power flex cable near the top right side of the screen. It could be damaged is not careful.

    cli168 -

    Yes, I severed this one on my first attempt. Might note that you want to start prying open below the sound controls. Additionally I found that a razor was helpful in getting the first pic into the device. Obviously you want to be careful as a razor could cause some serious damage, but I just used the tip of the metal to get some space to fit a pick.

    Nick Dresang -

    Maybe I was doing it wrong, but the plastic opening tool I was using kept bending before it was prying anything apart. Therefore I suggest using either a metal spudger or a razor blade to make the very first opening but being VERY careful. My assistant/wife later scratched the LCD going overboard with the metal tools.

    Logan Kennedy -

    There is a way of making the Wifi/Bluetooth Antenna replacement much easier. If you have a steady hand and a soldering iron simply desolder the connecting cable from the bottom of the antenna and solder it back onto the new antenna. This means there is no need to dismantle the iPad and the repair is much faster. Hope this helps :-)

    Richard -

    The process was pretty straightforward, you do need to be careful in a few spots (like the wifi antenna in the lower right) but overall I found it to be of medium level of difficulty.

    It took me 2.5hrs to slowly dismantle and replace the broken screen.

    Here are some tips I learned while doing it:

    - instead of plastic spudger, better to use kit knife or razor blade. I found plastic to bend and malform quite easily.

    - watch out for lower right corner where wifi antenna sits, it's easy to damage it

    - if you have a cracked screen, use protective goggles - i used tape to secure broken glass pieces together, but that didn't quite work and lots of glass was flying as I was prying the screen off the ipad

    - opening tool you put in the microwave sold here is not worth it - didn't do that great for me. I mostly used a hair drier and was very successful melting adhesive

    - tools I'd only need again to do it again - guitar picks, kit knife, phillips screwdriver, hair drier :D

    Overall, I found it to be quite interesting project!

    michalmotykiewicz -

    Seconding the problem about plastic components. They just aren't strong / precise enough to fight this glass. Save them for the really nasty bits like the wifi cable, and use an X-Acto or equivalent everywhere else.

    Golden Neckbeard -

    Wish I would have seen your comment before I went through it. Switched to a razor blade and that helped for sure. Thought about a hair dryer as well but stuck with the micro heating tool. Probably should have done the dryer. :-/

    Josh West -

    Had much more success using the metal spudger versus the plastic opening tool that came with the front panel kit.

    Paul Boyer -

    I had success using Paddle Pop sticks instead of guitar picks. (not sure what they are called in the US). The guitar picks tended to deform and melt with the heat of my hot gun. The glue used to attach the screen is just amazingly strong! It takes a lot of patience to remove all the fragments. I have done about 6 screens now and it is a turdful job!

    Jack -

    I think we call those popsicle sticks. They seem kind of thick for this, at least a lot thicker than a guitar pick.

    John -

    It is not glue, they use a very strong double sided 3M tape

    Odus182 -

    Pay attention to the Power Button cable located in the upper right corner !!!

    Nathan -

    Successful battery change but I did sever the cord/ribbon to the power/sleep button. As my iPad had been opened before at a repair shop, I think they put adhesive over the cord as the small section was stuck underneath the LCD, barely visible. So be careful not to put adhesive above that exposed ribbon/cord to the power/sleep button or the next time you open it up, it's severed.

    Breadman -

    On the iPad 2 I repaired, the opening started at 1 inch and ended at 3mm.

    Justin H -

    Like others i found the plastic tool pretty useless. Exacto, razor blade, or small metal pick/pry tool works much better to get that first guitar pick inserted. Be careful not to damage the bezel too much. Unless to plan to replace it.

    B Kirkham -

    If you have an iPAD that has been repaired before note that the adhesive strip might not have an opening by the volume control as shown. I replaced the glass and the new glass had a 2" gap to the left of the Home button only.

    winwoodc -

    The glass is much thinner than you'd think and I broke mine trying to lever it off before the adhesive has softened enough. Be VERY gentle!

    winwoodc -

    My plastic opening tool broke in no time flat. Perhaps I was pressing down too hard and not wiggling it enough. But for me I found that the metal spudger was the best tool for the job. I was able to wiggle it while slowly prying up the glass and once it was under the surface of the glass I was able to work it along the edge quite easily. I saw that some people used a razor blade but I would be afraid the blade would break. The metal spudger was just thin enough to do the job well.

    robertmhussey -

    !!!!!!razor-blade & hair-dryer !!!!!!!

    sean blanche -

    I have found that using these plastic picks, spudgers and edge tools are ineffective as tools for inserting or creating a gap and glue separation action.

    They are just too soft and too thick for this, causing cracks and not able to reach underneath without causing stresses.

    After heating the adhesive with a heat gun (and using cardboard to shield the lcd screen) I have been using a metal round headed scalpel to insert between the glass and bezel, and to very carefully use as an adhesive separation tool at a very oblique angle so as to miss any sensitive cables or components.

    Also, instead of this iTool heating pad and a microwave, they should create an electrically heated shaped pad, this would avoid the constant cooling and reheating and maintain the right temperature.

    G Trieste -

    Addendum, I have a temperature controlled heat gun, and set it to 180F for this.

    G Trieste -

  8. QmvgQquGIBYxZtev

    • Achte darauf, dass das Werkzeug an der richtigen Stelle einführst - zwischen der Kunststoffeinfassung des Displays und dem Front Panel Glas.

    This visual is helpful. It would be great also to have a diagram of the top of the ipad, marked with "top," "bottom," "left," "right," and then an arrow pointing to each of the problematic areas, such as wifi cable, digitizer cable, etc. It would be easier to see the whole schematic while working rather than scrolling through the instructions and trying to visualize each piece separately. Good to see where to be careful...

    Christa -

    !!!!!!razor-blade & hair-dryer !!!!!!!

    sean blanche -

  9. pwUD2bCKNuZHVLU5
    pwUD2bCKNuZHVLU5
    HlU6l6oRDnbXkjkp

    • Lasse die Spitze des Plastic Opening Tools eingekeilt zwischen dem Frontglas und der Kunststoffeinfassung und führe ein Opening Pick in die Lücke, direkt neben dem Plastic Opening Tool.

    My screen was too broken for this "heat, cut with picks, and leave in place" method to work anywhere but the top, where it was essentially undamaged.

    I wound up using a spudger through all the cracked sections to pry upwards just *inside* the perimeter of the adhesive, intentionally breaking the digitizer and the glass further, until I could remove the entire front panel except for the adhered portions - about half the perimeter in my case.

    I then used tools to pry up the glass from the *opposite* direction, that is the broken interior edge I had earlier created, thus not having to fight the bezel and also having a clear line of sight to any interior components I might be damaging.

    Of course, doing it this way made it much easier to drop tiny shards of glass all over the interior, but I found a little diligent cleaning much easier than trying to keep the glass intact while breaking the glue, as in this guide.

    Golden Neckbeard -

    I found that using a scraper blade was the easiest way to get under the glass, both for broken and unbroken areas.

    Jeff Snider -

  10. wfFQibWyLkgFIItB
    wfFQibWyLkgFIItB
    VZPRrN161OBO14cm

    • Entferne das Plastic Opening Tool vom iPad und schiebe das Opening Pick weiter unter das Frontglas bis zu einer Tiefe von etwa 1-1,5 cm.

    It should be noted that the glass can be much more difficult to remove when it is cracked and shattered (as is usually the reason for replacement) . Depending on the location and severity of the cracks, the order and technique of removal requires modification.

    I have found that putting a layer of clear packing tape over the entire screen is helpful, wether it's cracked or not. It will prevent the spraying of glass shards, should the glass break while separating the adhesive; with a broken screen, it should eliminate the risk of cutting yourself during removal, as well as hold all the pieces together. Unfortunately, it also makes the iOpener slightly less effective, so peel it back when applying it. Suction cups can also be helpful during final removal of the glass.

    Having a hot air gun/pencil can be helpful in removing smaller pieces if broken glass that remain once the bulk of it is removed.

    Nick V -

    Just trashed an I pad... Not an electronics person. Did an iphone 5 battery with no problems was following instructions and once I hit the next step I realized I had already screwed up the screen... Moving forward tring to unhook LCD pictures are not very clear on which direction to push or pull so broke that... Now writing a review on it... Take it to a pro if you aren't certain!

    rondiedonelson -

    I found that the adhesive could be separated when the pick or spudger was in at a depth of between 1/4" (6.4 mm) and 3/8" (9.5 mm). You can always go back and work it in deeper if you are having trouble separating.

    robertmhussey -

    Yoh but this is not so simple of your screen is shattered to the edges. Basically I had to lift, shatter more, and then pick off the splintered glass with tweezers bit by bit. Patience is a virtue here. I gave up on saving the adhesive and used it to help remove the splinters. I basically removed the edges of the iPad like that and then lift glass off. WEAR SAFETY GLASSES. I would be blind now if I didn’t. wifi antenna -Go slow make sure it’s hot +check what you are doing in the crack. Remove all splinters fromiPad when it’s open. Clean LCD with a microfibre cloth and inside of your new digitizer. When I first reassembled, the home button didn’t work. I reopened and made sure the two gold connectors align with the two spikes on the body. I placed the home button board face down onto the connector spikes with adhesive on the other side, then lowered the digitiser onto it so the board would stick to the digitiser. Notes: forget plastic spudger they’re only place holders, I used a blade knife and metal Spudgers

    Sarah Pegden -

  11. FFn16vPYF1VPkJgo

    • Während du daran arbeitest, den Kleber auf der rechten Seite des iPad zu lösen, erhitze den iOpener erneut und platziere ihn auf der unteren Kante des iPads.

    I have found that its better to put more than one pick down the side of the screen to keep it open and prevent it from sticking back down.

    Roberto Enrieu -

    I had a pick in and used the spudger to make some headway but after 10cm the screen cracked. Be very slow and reheat the glue often.

    Alex -

  12. OO42HCZckZ21Ayaf
    OO42HCZckZ21Ayaf
    ZCnFfqfsoMmtJj2n
    eNBvPvsy6E5kVJNw

    • Während die Unterkante vom iOpener erhitzt wird, fange an, den Kleber an der rechten Kante des iPads zu lösen.

    • Fahre mit dem Opening Pick die Kante des iPads entlang nach unten und löse dabei den Kleber.

    • Der verwendete Kleber ist sehr stark und ein erheblicher Kraftaufwand kann vonnöten sein. Arbeite mit Bedacht.

    • Wenn die Spitze des Opening Picks unter dem Frontglas hervorschaut, ziehe das Pick wieder ein wenig heraus. Zwar wird nichts beschädigt, wenn du das Opening Pick so tief positionierst, aber es kann Kleberrückstände auf dem LCD hinterlassen.

  13. mI5VXI4FbrwxCaxS
    mI5VXI4FbrwxCaxS
    UHlMLFhHN3bJfp1b
    BHVwtoeYSfMMiQAx

    • Um den Kleber zu lösen, kann es notwendig sein, den erhitzten iOpener nochmal auf auf der rechten Kante des iPads aufzulegen. Das hängt davon ab, wieweit dein iPad schon wieder heruntergekühlt ist, während du daran gearbeitet hast.

    • Wenn das Opening Pick im Kleber hängen bleibt, "walze" das Pick entlang der Seitenkante des iPads und löse dabei weiter den Kleber.

    The volume power button cable is really close to the edge and is frequently loose and non adherent to the frame. If your pick is deep into the iPad, you are almost sure to cut the cable. Be very cautious around the top right corner of the iPad.

    silvain1038 -

    I absolutely severed this cable when loosening the adhesive around the volume button area. There is really no way of knowing if this cable somewhat elevated from the frame and therefore susceptible to being cut, and it happens to be right where one starts to remove the face with the guitar picks. The cable is directly in from the down volume button, so be extra careful not to put the guitar pick in too far in this area. I recommend buying a power/volume button cable just in case. Replacing this cable is also not easy, but doable. Just try to avoid doing it.

    nickmalmquist -

    Why not work in reverse to the top edge, and back around to the area where that cable may be unsecured? Haven't don't an iPad (yet, staring one in the face right now) but that would be my alternative so the screen is mostly loose and you could possibly see the cable looking from the now open left side of the glass?

    Matt Needham -

  14. AA3MXqmFt3RoEXaD
    AA3MXqmFt3RoEXaD
    Aa4WZLCXtZMekWe4

    • Bevor du das erste Opening Pick aus der unteren Ecke des iPads entfernst, platziere ein zweites Pick unter der rechten Ecke des Frontglases, um zu verhindern, dass der Kleber wieder anzieht.

    • Erhitze den iOpener erneut und platziere ihn an der Oberkante des iPads.

  15. oGyetMIL5K1ptMf5

    • Bei den nächsten Schritten ist große Achtsamkeit vonnöten.

    • Die Wi-Fi Antenne ist mit Schrauben und einem Kabel an der unteren rechten Ecke des hinteren iPad-Gehäuses angebracht. Wegen der Ausrichtung der Wi-Fi Antenne, ist es dringend erforderlich mit Vorsicht vorzugehen, da andernfalls der Wi-Fi Antenne irreparabler Schaden zugefügt werden kann.

    • Du musst den Kleber, der Antenne und Front Panel verbindet, entfernen, ohne die empfindlichen Teile, mit denen die Antenne unten am iPad befestigt ist, zu beschädigen. Sei vorsichtig beim weiteren Vorgehen.

    I cut through my wifi cable partially, but it still works (surprisingly). I'd recommend staying well clear of this with the pick. When you go to lift the screen (future step, NOT NOW), use a really good light, start to lift the glass slightly at the corner and you will be able to see the cable. Then you can heat it more and watch the cable as you pull through the adhesive there making sure your not catching the cable.

    B Kirkham -

    If you heat the sides and top, releasing the adhesive, you can peel the broken glass front panel up from the body and with a little force the bottom comes loose. This avoids working around and damaging the Wi-Fi Antennae.

    Michael Vovaris -

    I know it is hard to tell from the photo, but the Wi-Fi antenna is kind of like a flap that opens on the right and is attached on the left. So if you use a pick to slide from right to left, the pick might slide under the flap and then sever how it is attached. When I had my pick just to the right of where the Wi-Fi antenna is, I was able to twist my pick a little (like you are tightening a screw) and pry the screen up where the antenna is located. Then I just moved my pick to the left of the antenna and could continue loosening the screen.

    Laurie Higgins -

    Irreversible damage to the Wi-Fi antenna is nearly unavoidable, but this is not the end of the world since you can pick up a perfectly fine replacement on-line for a few bucks. Many digitizer screen replacement kits include a new WiFi antenna and new bezel since removing the screen without damage to these is also nearly impossible. If your iPad is old enough to need a new battery, and you plan on keeping it thru at least another battery's expected life span, then I would plan on replacing the digitizer screen, bezel, and WiFi antenna as part of the battery replacement. The battery is going to be the most expensive of the set, say around $15 (US), and adding the other three will only add about another $15 (check the prices in ebay, amazon, etc.). Removing the screen often results in damage to the on/off and volume control cable since it too runs along the upper right hand edge of the base right under the screen. If you cut thru this then add another $1 to replace it too.

    Jerry -

    Based on my experience just (nearly) completing this job on an iPad 2, CDMA, is that the trickiest step is reconnecting the three CDMA antenna cables on the underside of the CDMA chip that is part of the logic board assembly. These are nearly microscopic button connectors (maybe 0.5 mm in diameter). I needed 8X magnification glasses, very bright light, tweezers, and incredible luck to get these reattached. They pop off no problem, but getting them positioned to apply pop-on force takes a LOT of patients! Maybe someone knows a trick to doing this? There’s a similar connector on the WiFi cable but the chip it attaches to can be removed from the logic board so you’re able to manage positioning them interdependently. The CDMA chip is attached (soldered?) to the logic board and the three button connectors are on the underside, and pretty close to one another, so getting all THREE attached and then the logic board in place is a miracle.

    Jerry -

  16. D3jnF4kF5UhKHHJf
    D3jnF4kF5UhKHHJf
    1ipbJBEP6vvWNbTd

    • Fahre mit dem Opening Pick entlang der rechten unten Ecke des iPads und löse dabei den Kleber dort.

    • Fahre mit dem Pick nicht weiter als bis zu der rechten unteren Ecke. Andernfalls kannst du die Wi-Fi Antenne beschädigen.

    Be sure to have a replacement Bluetooth Wi-Fi antenna because it is very likely to get the cable broken at this step.

    McGiord -

    Be extremely careful and patient at this step. Proceed slowly with only the tip ( 1/16th in. - 2mm max.) of the pick. There are two tinny screws that attach the bottom of the antenna to the iPad frame. This antenna part is easly severed if the pick goes too far.

    Happenned to me and had to replace the antenna.

    Marc Bouchard -

  17. waXhiPNJCqXYW5Xa
    waXhiPNJCqXYW5Xa
    SbSXQiiMg2APULiu

    • Der Schritt verlangt, dass du das Opening Pick entlang der rechten unteren Ecke des Front Panels bewegst. Die Wi-Fi Antenne befindet sich sehr nahe an der Ecke und wird leicht abgetrennt, wenn der Kleber unfachmännisch gelöst wird.

    • Ziehe das Pick nicht vollständig unter dem Frontglas hervor, sondern nur ein bisschen, sodass sich 1-2 mm der Spitze noch unter dem Frontglas befinden.

    • Fahre mit der Spitze des Opening Picks entlang der unteren Kante des iPads und entferne so den Kleber über der Wi-Fi Antenne.

    I nearly broke my wifi antenna because I didn't read this whole step clearly and didn't go backwards and release the antenna from the front panel. Admittedly, this is my own fault but I've edited the step to make this point more clear.

    Logan Kennedy -

    My screen was way too shattered for me to be able to use the screen instructions as suggested, so I followed the general principal but ignored the order around, because that simply wouldn't have worked...and destroyed the antenna.

    Maybe step one should be "BE CAREFUL IN THIS CORNER OR YOU WILL BREAK THE ANTENNA!" A diagram highlighting where all the cables (antenna, digitiser, volume, toggle switch) lie with the screen still attached would be helpful too.

    HRB -

    Or maybe you should have read the entire thing before starting if you were not planing on following it step by step

    Hawesg Garrett -

    I Broke my antenna like many others. It is glued to the glass and has 1mm thick foam backing that is also glued to the inner case. Then there is a tiny grounding connector screwed at the lower edge of the case. Once you can get things loosened up around this antenna, you will need to detach this antenna from the glass. Work at it with your picks or spudger until you get it free, if you do not get it to release from the glass you will break the grounding ribbon. I bought a cheap aftermarket antenna on amazon for $3. turns out it has a bad cable coming from it. I was able to unsolder the cable from the one I broke and solder it to the new antenna.

    chrisnewitt -

    This BEGS for an Archer "Just The Tip" reference.

    Christian -

    It wasn't obvious to me at first that I'd broken the antenna. A picture of the antenna that works compared with one that is broken would be useful. Fortunately I'd ordered the replacement part just in case, as suggested.

    I think using extra heat on this spot may make it easier to unstick without breaking the antenna?

    A diagram of what the antenna looks like, from the side, would make it clearer what to do with the pick. You are trying to detach the antenna from the glass, without ripping it off where it's screwed into the bottom of the ipad. Since you can't see what you are doing, and the antenna is quite fragile, that's tricky.

    I think once you've broken one you would know better how to do it. When you slide the pick to the right you need to be sure the pick is moving above the antenna and not snagging on it in any way, and you need to be sure the antenna is completely detached from the glass, so you don't tear it when you lift the glass up.

    Chris Jordan -

    Can anybody give me a clue as to what the exact part is in step 57, As there are slightly different cables for the ipad 2, Mine is A1395, Thanks.

    Jasper -

    Another lesson learned while removing the WiFi antenna. The photo shows the iPad laying face up on the table, but to see what you’re doing when detaching the antenna you ‘re better off with the iPad edge up so you can see how the antenna is attached. The antenna is very, very easily broken. To be honest, it’s a lot easier to replace a broken antenna than to try to pry it loose.

    nigel -

    Please mind that the GSM model has on the upper side left and right from the front camera the 3G antennas. When I removed the broken glass I cut the right one off which I have to fix now.

    st mo -

  18. KdJ5XSWYsyDdUqLn
    KdJ5XSWYsyDdUqLn
    OTKFFMb5MTOKIsM6

    • Sobald du hinter der Wi-Fi Antenne angekommen bist (etwa 3 cm entfernt von der rechten Ecke bzw. direkt neben dem Home Button, führe das Opening Pick wieder soweit ein, wie es geht.

    • Fahre mit dem Pick nach rechts und löse so den Kleber, der Wi-Fi Antenne und Frontglas verbindet.

    • Die Antenne ist unten am iPad mit Schrauben und einem Kabel befestigt. Mit diesem Schritt wird die Antenne vom Front Panel getrennt, wobei sichergestellt ist, dass die Antenne nicht beschädigt wird, wenn du das Panel entfernst.

    Be extremely cautious on this step! I did it wrong and my antenna went to !@#$.

    Lars Lien Ankile -

    Also once it is unattached from the front panel, if the antennas adhesive touches the glass again it can re-adhere to front panel and may rip apart after all. Keep a close eye on it or leave a pick or card in there to prevent it from re-sticking.

    Danny Hartley -

    Ordering a replacement antenna to anticipate the one you will brake(I should say shred) is probably your smartest move to have a successful repair

    Sebastien CHAPUIS -

  19. OQq4SgXmA2uUDrnC
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    tkqWaRtqnHCeXuiO
    OfYsS4IH1O1VxncC

    • Fahre damit fort, den Kleber entlang der Unterseite des iPads zu lösen. Ziehe dazu das Opening Pick weit genug heraus, um den Home Button zu umschiffen und führe es wieder etwa 1,3 cm tief ein, sobald du den Home Button passiert hast.

    • Falls der Kleber an der Unterseite schon zu sehr abgekühlt hat, erhitze den iOpener erneut, um den Kleber dort zu erwärmen, wo du gerade arbeitest.

    • Erhitze den iOpener niemals länger als eine Minute am Stück und warte immer mindestens zwei Minuten, bevor du ihn erneut erhitzt.

  20. N2oMAxZ12qvPUSjc
    N2oMAxZ12qvPUSjc
    X6lZ5JJbmxG2WOdL

    • Fahre damit fort, den Kleber entlang der Unterkante des iPads zu lösen.

    • Bei iPad 4 Modellen darfst du den Pick in diesem Bereich höchstens 1,3 cm tief einschieben, du könntest sonst das Flachbandkabel zum Home Button beschädigen.

    • Lasse das Opening Pick eingekeilt unter dem Frontglas nahe dem Home Button.

    This should include details about the Home Button Ribbon Cable. Unlike an iPad 3 (which doesn't have this cable) the iPad 4 has a Home Button Ribbon Cable that runs along the left side of the Home Button and is adhered to the glass. If the guitar pick is inserted too far (more than 0.5") it is possible to damage or sever this cable.

    robjpete -

    There is a reason this is an iPad 2 Wi-Fi EMC-2560 repair guide. This guide isn't for iPad 3 or 4...

    Christian -

    I think the guides carry common steps between them. I'm reading this string of comments on multiple ipad 3/4 repair guides.

    Anticept -

    Can I suggest putting the warning in red at the top of the instruction rather than half-way through it? I work from these guides by scrolling through them as I go, and I'd already put the spudger through the ribbon cable before I read the warning!

    spl23 -

  21. xrZKHgwPwIshSlOJ

    • Erhitze den iOpener wieder in der Mikrowelle und lege ihn auf die linke Seite des iPads, um den Kleber in diesem Bereich zu erwärmen.

    I believe this should say to place the iOpener on the top edge, since the instructions go there next.

    lizgoldnm -

  22. hvqfpTtTsJlhTLRE
    hvqfpTtTsJlhTLRE
    5GjnZiATIwN5DMwj
    VguToRCdGehUxOuH

    • Fahre mit dem Opening Pick entlang der Oberkante des iPads und ziehe es leicht heraus, um den Bügel der Frontkamera zu umfahren

    • Der Kleber ist in diesem Bereich sehr dick aufgetragen, weswegen beträchtlich Kraft aufgewendet werden muss. Arbeite langsam und vorsichtig und achte darauf, nicht abzurutschen und dir oder dem iPad keinen Schaden zuzufügen.

    • Falls der Kleber schon zu sehr angefühlt ist, platziere den iOpener wieder entlang der Oberkante und arbeite weiter. Falls der iOpener schon zu sehr abgekühlt ist, erhitze ihn erneut.

    • Falls das Plektrum im Kleber steckenbleibt, dann "rolle" es vorwärts wie in Schritt 9 gezeigt wurde.

    In my case I damaged the right GSM antenna which was somehow sticked to the front panel... Be really careful as I really didn't felt that I was damaging anything...

    MattLise Gaillzik -

    +1 on the right 3g antenna - it is adhered to the glass and I cut right through it with the opening pick. The replacement included adhesive to re-stick it to the glass, so this is a definite feature of this antenna. This is a thin film similar to the wifi antenna, so maybe going around it at a shallow depth from the corner to the camera and then returning to the corner slightly deeper would allow you to separate the antenna from the glass without damaging it.

    doog -

    Be very careful when going around the front camera, I cracked my screen by prying up too much and causing too much stress!

    Rowdydtk -

    The GSM component is glued to the screen with different adhesive (more like glue). I managed to not damage this but it was really tricky. The guitar pick is too thick and weak to release this from the screen. Id recommend you wait until you lift the glass (future step, NOT NOW). Then, with a good light you'll see the white plastic adhered to the glass. A thin metal pick or exacto is needed to patiently cut & pry your way through the adhesive. Careful of the camera as your pulling in that direction.

    B Kirkham -

  23. FN5fcGPuYlNDFtFg
    FN5fcGPuYlNDFtFg
    QsDtOPZyZXTo2GVH

    • Fahre damit fort, den Kleber entlang der oberen Kante des iPads zu lösen und fahre mit dem Opening Pick um die linke obere Ecke.

    • Wenn der Kleber warm genug ist, entferne den iOpener zur Vereinfachung vom iPad. Wenn der Kleber jedoch noch relativ fest hält, erhitze den iOpener erneut und lege ihn auf die linke Kante, während du weiterarbeitest.

  24. 61v6j3CjbWWPGvWn
    61v6j3CjbWWPGvWn
    gQeGZERJuU5wSRKU
    pulLlKBFeww6FK2R

    • Fahre mit dem Plektrum entlang der linken Kante des iPads und löse dabei den Kleber. Der Klebestreifen ist hier durch den Digitizer an der ganzen linken Seite sehr dünn. Schiebe das Pick deswegen nicht tiefer als 1,3 cm ein, um Schäden am Digitizer zu vermeiden.

    • Das Digitizer-Kabel befindet sich etwa 5 cm von der Unterseite des iPads entfernt. Halte an, wenn du noch etwa 6 cm von der Unterkante des iPads entfernt bist.

    The second photo does not show the iPad 4's Home Button Ribbon Cable.

    robjpete -

    Because this is for an iPad 2

    Odus182 -

    @odus182 It says clear as day that this is an iPad 4 guide!

    Mike Enos -

    This is the hardest part the digitizer cable runs the length of this side and u have to be very carefull with the pick . Only go in an 1/8 inch I severed it by going the half (recommended) luckily I had a new screen standing by . I used I opener for heating and it was slow but ok.

    wperrin623 -

    How do i fix my digitiser if it's broken? Do i need to buy a new iPad screen with digitiser?

    Jenny Le -

    just ruined my digitiser..any ideas how to fix it?

    dleimonis -

    There is an error in the red text in this step. It says ‘The digitizer cable is located approximately 2" from the bottom of the iPad’. The next sentence says .. ‘Stop sliding the pick when you get ~2.25" from the bottom of the iPad.. This will slice and ruin that cable. The last sentence should read ‘Stop sliding the pick when you get ~1.75" from the bottom of the iPad.’ so you stop cutting glue before you get to the digitizer cable.

    @Jenny & @dleimonis - you can buy the digitizer and new cable by itself if you do not need an LCD also. They are separate parts.

    Jon Lucenius -

  25. GYuao4clOKRGqMEk
    GYuao4clOKRGqMEk
    JXQnCRfVXwwvhfSH

    • Löse den Kleber entlang der linken unteren Ecke mit dem Pick, dass sich noch an der Unterkante des iPads befindet.

    • Das untere Ende des Digitizer-Kabels ist nur etwa 1cm von der Unterseite des iPads entfernt. Gehe langsam und vorsichtig vor und achte darauf, das Kabel nicht durchzutrennen.

    If your screen is broken or shattered there are no worries with the digitizer cable, It is all on the new screen.

    Danny Hartley -

    Exactly. I purposely severed mine as it was a complete screen replacement and made the LCD removal easier.

    jesseokerlund -

  26. G4MR1cap1hLoqZnx
    G4MR1cap1hLoqZnx
    FCHTsGFUiPJXBh6P

    • Heble mit einem Opening Pick die rechte untere Ecke des iPads nach oben und ergreife es.

    • Teilweise kann der Kleber rund um das iPad wieder angezogen haben. Wenn das der Fall ist, fahre mit einem Pick unter die Kante des iPads, wo das Frontglas noch festklebt und "durchtrenne" den Kleber.

    Should be right-hand corner

    longg -

    Be very careful when pushing the guitar pick around the corner of the power/volume buttons. The ribbon cable for these buttons may be stuck to the adhesive and break when lifting the screen or when sliding the pick along this area. I have done 4 iPad 2 repairs and at least one of the delicate components do not make it. I would recommend ordering a wi-fi/bluetooth antenna, bezel with strips, and a power/volume cable. It is nice to have a "just-in-case" part or two, they are very inexpensive. I noticed that the I tended to break one of these delicate components when the screen was shattered in the area of those components.

    thetechandtutor -

    I absolutely severed this cable when loosening the adhesive around the volume button area. There is really no way of knowing if this cable somewhat elevated from the frame and therefore susceptible to being cut, and it happens to be right where one starts to remove the face with the guitar picks. The cable is directly in from the down volume button, so be extra careful not to put the guitar pick in too far in this area. I recommend buying a power/volume button cable just in case. Replacing this cable is also not easy, but doable. Just try to avoid doing it.

    nickmalmquist -

    At this point it is a good idea to get the packing tape back out and wrap it around 2 or 3 of your fingers making a circle with the sticky on the outside. Make it loose enough you can place your fingers on the table surface to the side and pull your fingers out. When you remove all the tiny parts/screws in the next steps put them on top of the tape so you know exactly where they are when you need them

    windizy -

  27. PZakxmpL6G5vWVhC
    PZakxmpL6G5vWVhC
    QcGqFZQVJPyTDtDZ

    • Halte das iPad an der unteren und oberen rechten Ecke fest und klappe das Frontglas vom iPad weg.

    • Achte darauf, dass möglicherweise noch Kleber vorhanden sein könnte. Schneide mit einem Opening Pick jeglichen Kleber, der das Front Panel noch unten halten könnte, durch.

    Check to the right of the Home button to see if the wifi/bluetooth antenna is still stuck to the glass side or has released. If it is still stuck to the glass use the guitar pick to carefully scrape it off. If your goal is to replace the antenna, then you needn't be so careful.

    jerry81 -

    Be very careful not to touch the LCD. It's a pain to remove smudges. One thing that might help when you need to hold it while reattaching it during reassembly: attach a small suction cup to the metal side. That way you can avoid touching the sides where your hand might slip to the LCD side.

    patjmccarthy -

    Do you need to use some adhesive strips to remount the plastic bezel? The bezel I ordered didn't come with any and the ones you can order only seem to have strips for mounting the glass and not the bezel.

    James -

    You'd better. The original bezel is glued. You can find 3mm fine/double-sided (black) tape on Amazon. I use it when I replace the bezel because they fit perfectly under the bezel. I use for all sorts of repairs on iPhones, Samsungs, etc. Such as this [one|http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005GIS...]

    Rany -

    In order to prevent touching the LCD screen with your finger(s), I use the thin plastic food wrapper to cover it. It will temporary stick to the LCD screen and provide excellent protection from fingerprints.

    Th Th -

    Very good suggestion. It worked like a charm.

    Laurie Higgins -

    you can use latex gloves to keep smudges and finger prints from the screen. I'm getting ready to repair mine, thanks for all the comments and tips. Btw, I wonder if a vacuum cleaner would work for removing small pieces of glass.

    De Dios sept.10 2014

    dediosjon -

    where is the connecotr for home button at the ipad 3....i have nothin where i can plug in the flex cable comin from the button

    Georg Heinze -

    Go slowly as you lift up the glass and be sure that you are not tearing a ribbon cable. When I lifted the glass the digitizer cable was torn and unusable. Perhaps I had cut it with the pick/spudger but it tore completely off when I lifted the glass. Good thing I had purchased the full front panel assembly with the digitizer (IF116-018-3).

    robertmhussey -

    When reassembling I used canned air to blow off dust on the LCD before closing it up.

    robertmhussey -

    You can use a clean soft brush like a make-up brush or small paint brush to brush off the LCD.

    Laurie Higgins -

    I like how the pictures show an intact screen being removed (although the one in step 4 has a couple of cracks in). I don’t know if anyone would have the luxury of being able to remove a screen in one piece, the ipads I've fixed have been completely smashed pretty much all the way around the outside of the lcd underneath. I used this guide to know where to watch for cables etc - very helpful. I end up using a window scraper/razor to scrape off the glass shards/adhesive around the edge. Glass shards/dust all over the lcd is easy enough to get off but cleaning the lcd after that is a real pain. Does anyone have any suggestions how to clean the lcd properly?

    jmzaj -

    When reassembling the glass, align the camera first. On the back of the glass there are two pins on the metal camera frame.

    Align them to the camera first, in order to avoid to get a ‘bulge’ visible on the glass or on the back of the iPad.

    Luca Forti -

    +1 to Luca’s comment. This deserves a RED NOTE for reassembly. I probably just destroyed my new wifi antenna due to not having a reassembly call out for alignment of the screen. Had to pry things back apart and wifi antenna looks like it may have bit the dust. So this is a VERY important bit to know for a first timer.

    Benjamin Pappas -

    When reinstalling the front panel check the home button’s ribbon cable doesn’t get trapped. If it gets folded back on itself, the cable will break and you’ll have a reassembled iPad with a non-functioning home button.

    nigel -

  28. DV3YvUSvsECwpWK4

    • Entferne die vier 2,0 mm Kreuzschlitzschrauben, welche das LCD am hinteren Gehäuse befestigen.

  29. uadwgbgPjPw1yhbE
    uadwgbgPjPw1yhbE
    ucIJpEIr2pLciPWp

    • Die Flachbandkabel des Front Panels sind unterhalb des LCDs miteinander verbunden. Um Zugang zu bekommen, musst du das LCD aus dem Weg klappen.

    • Sei sehr vorsichtig, wenn du das LCD bewegst und versuche nicht, es vom iPad zu entferne — sein Displaydatenkabel bleibt angeschlossen, wenn es umgeklappt wird.

    • Hebe das LCD entlang der Längsseite der Lautsprechertasen und klappe es vorsichtig aus dem hinteren Gehäuse heraus—so wie das Umblättern einer Buchseite.

    • Lege das LCD umgekehrt auf das Front Panel.

    Why the warning not to remove the LCD? If you first disconnect power (by removing the battery contact screw on the logic board and slipping some thin flexible plastic between the battery contacts and logic board), then isn’t safe to go ahead and disconnect the LCD cable? I’d be much more comfortable disconnecting the LCD and setting it aside in a protective bag during the remaining steps?

    Jerry -

    Hi Jerry! The warning is to prevent people from pulling the LCD out of the iPad before the cable is disconnected. You’re right that the iPad is easy to maneuver with the display disconnected, to do so visit the following step details how to correctly disconnect the cable for safe LCD removal.

    Sam Goldheart -

  30. M24XgVGQ26aWDuFb
    M24XgVGQ26aWDuFb
    ZCPjBACAXnOxHyTw
    AFKsnyBP5cNFg5uv

    • Klappe den Sicherungsbügel am ZIF Verbinder des Flachbandkabels zur Kopfhörerbuchse und der Frontkamera mit dem flachen Ende eines Plastiköffnungswerkzeugs hoch.

    • Achte darauf, dass du nur am scharnierartigen Sicherungsbügel hebelst und nicht am Anschluss.

    • Fahre mit einem Plastiköffnungswerkzeug unter dem Kabel zur Kopfhörerbuchse und Frontkamera entlang, um den Kleber an der Rückabdeckung zu lösen.

    • Ziehe das Flachbandkabel zur Kopfhörerbuchse und Frontkamera gerade aus seinem Anschluss auf dem Logic Board heraus.

  31. PupRvVBffMSgLgaG

    • Entferne die beiden 2,9 mm Kreuzschlitzschrauben, mit denen die Kopfhörerbuchse an der Rückabdeckung befestigt ist.

  32. XWwGFKX5GrwWdDFS

    • Hole die Kopfhörerbuchse mit einem Plastiköffnungswerkzeug aus ihrem Sitz in der Oberkante des iPads heraus.

    • Entferne die Baugruppe noch nicht.

  33. uAbKx3l3ZqReMRjv

    • Ziehe behutsam die Kabel der Frontkamera und des Mikrofons vom Rückpanel ab.

  34. q3d5JQskLcY1QbKH
    q3d5JQskLcY1QbKH
    rTImhSKa2nvHrLHC

    • Entferne vorsichtig den Klebestreifen vom Stecker am Frontkamerakabel.

    • Trenne mit der Kante eines Plastiköffnungswerkzeugs das Frontkamerakabel vom Kabel zur Kopfhörerbuchse.

  35. wQvkD6urlYCjxZcP

    • Löse behutsam das Frontkamerakabel vom unteren Flachbandkabel ab, das an der Kopfhörerbuchse befestigt ist.

  36. nXCdW1nyP3Yg6RkA

    • Trenne mit der Kante eines Plastiköffnungswerkzeugs den Mikrofonkabelstecker ab.

  37. GNRLxnPrg5Vocboi

    • Entferne die Kopfhörerbuchse vom iPad 2.

  38. sOjDOyxrblZC4KLj
    sOjDOyxrblZC4KLj
    WIMfjudEmSQHw6PL

    • Klappe die Haltebügel an den beiden ZIF-Sockeln der Digitizer Flachbandkabel vorsichtig mit einem Plastic Opening Tool um.

    • Achte darauf, dass du an den klappbaren Haltebügeln hebelst und nicht an den Sockeln selbst.

    • Die Haltebügel sind rot im zweiten Bild hervorgehoben.

    You should disconnect the battery before disconnecting any cables.

    Gregg Stanley -

  39. A5ba3YavJdNDIbxT
    A5ba3YavJdNDIbxT
    Yr5JuLJyEfUVjVhW

    • Benutze die Kante eines Plastic Opening Tools um das Digitizer Kabel von der Abschirmung auf dem Logic Board zu lösen.

    • Ziehe das Digitizer vorsichtig vom Kleber ab, mit dem es an der Seite des hinteren Gehäuses festgemacht ist.

    It is a really good idea to apply a bit of heat to this ribbon cable prior to removal. Ribbon cables that are held in place with adhesive can tear easily. Taking a moment to warm it up will help make the removal much easier.

    Joshua -

  40. q4FI2ubOww1SMWNF

    • Ziehe die Digitizer Flachbandkabel gerade aus ihren Sockeln auf dem Logic Board heraus.

    After I replaced the digitizer only half the screen is working. Any reason for this problem ?

    Pedro Trindade -

    When reassembling, don’t remove the adhesive strip until you’re sure the new cable is inserted correctly and locked in place. Place the LCD panel inside the case, and the screen inside the bezel, turn on the iPad. If you can drag an icon across the screen, from top to bottom, left to right, your screen is correctly installed and you can proceed removing the adhesive.

    Candice McDowell -

    After I replaced the digitizer the volume button the side of my ipad will go down but not back up and it’s not powering off. Any ideas why this is happening?

    Jonathan Davidson -

  41. aoIQML5QhEcPTJA6
    aoIQML5QhEcPTJA6
    nOFR1NISKHRyQbAk

    • Um die Front Panel Einheit zu entfernen muss das Flachbandkabel zwischen dem Gehäuse und dem LCD herausgleiten. Um etwas Platz zu schaffen, muss das LCD bewegt werden.

    • Sei beim Bewegen des LCD sehr vorsichtig und versuche nicht, es vom iPad zu entfernen—das Kabel bleibt während des Umklappens verbunden.

    • Hebe das LCD an der Längsseite, die am weitesten vom Digitizer entfernt ist, an und klappe es vorsichtig zu dem hinteren Gehäuse—so, als ob du ein Buch schließt.

    • Während du das LCD oben hälst, bewege das Front Panel vorsichtig vom iPad weg. Achte darauf, dass das Digitizer Kabel nicht am hinteren Gehäuse oder dem LCD hängen bleibt.

    • Lege das LCD zurück in den Aufbau, damit es sicher aufbewahrt ist.

    (Step 14 should be deleted.)

    John Cain -

    why it should be deleted?

    i think it's necessary to remove the digitizer cable before we lift up the logicboard

    Can Han -

    It should go without saying, but anytime you are handling the LCD, try to only touch the edges. Otherwise you'll be scrubbing fingerprints for 15 minutes. Not that I'm speaking from personal experience or anything.

    Ed Chapman -

    random question...........1 problem i've ran into in the past is the digitizer cable is so long on aftermarket screens the adhesive isn't strong enough to hold the glass down around the digitizer area where it is folded.

    would it help to have a 2nd person tilt glass straight up off table and tuck some extra cable under the lcd or will this cause a problem with the lcd itself?

    Jason S -

  42. JuCPWeixCVtP6dUl

    • Um an den inneren Bauteilen arbeiten zu können, muss das LCD aus dem Gehäuse heraus gekippt werden.

    • Hebe das LCD an der langen Seite in der Nähe der Lautstärketasten hoch und kippe es vorsichtig aus dem Gehäuse, so wie man die Seite eines Buchs umschlägt.

    • Um Kratzer zu vermeiden, solltest du das LCD mit der Scheibe nach unten auf eine weiche saubere Oberfläche legen.

  43. OH1yCCNGThrkmgUt
    OH1yCCNGThrkmgUt
    XsiBUaIMPCd6daDm
    uX3nhTOKhUhFTZ3I

    • Lege das LCD vorsichtig neben das Rückpanel.

    • Hebe den Sicherungsbügel am Displaydatenkabel mit einem iFixit Opening Tool hoch.

    • Ziehe das Displaydatenkabel aus seinem Anschluss heraus.

    • Ziehe den Stecker beim Ablösen aus dem Anschluss nicht nach oben.

  44. NBxbuN1ufwZKbRrs

    • Entferne die LCD-Baugruppe von der Rückpanel-Einheit.

  45. byY6UoP16UhYpVRA

    • Entferne das Stückchen Klebeband, mit dem das Flachbandkabel der Frontkamera befestigt ist.

    • Sei vorsichtig beim Ablösen des Klebebands und beschädige nicht die Flachbandkabel der Kamera, des Mikrofons oder der Kopfhörerbuchse.

  46. BuiCV5QY1HEUB6QH

    • Löse die Frontkamera vom Klebeschaum ab, mit dem sie am Rückpanel befestigt ist.

  47. SBQjthvJHTThlYxA

    • Hole das Frontkamerakabel aus dem in das Rückpanel eingeschnittenen Kanal heraus.

    • Entferne die Frontkamera von deinem iPad.

    Incidentally, you have also very likely removed the ambient light sensor (which allows automatic adjustment of the screen’s brightness according to ambient light. The sensor (in the iPad 4, at least, and it appears extremely similar in the iPad 2) is the module attached above the camera, and has its own tiny hole in the iPad’s glass, just above the one for the camera’s lens.

    The module is held securely to the camera by adhesive, and given the small cost of replacing the assembly, it seems most expedient to just remove and replace the camera as well. I have confirmed that doing so restores ambient light sensor function to an iPad 4 (WiFi) that lacked it. I haven’t tested this on an iPad 2, but since the module appears very similar, I surmise that its function is the same.

    One caution with the iPad 2 is that the microphone assembly has a similar sensor. To make an educated guess which one is the light sensor, determine which lines up best with the tiny hole in the iPad’s glass, just above the one for the camera.

    Bonnie Baxter -

  48. 3dl1U3LnKH44RhHY
    3dl1U3LnKH44RhHY
    Dh2xyuiyRHbNxWuw
    QwANIrTQpPTGAyEI

    • Wenn vorhanden, musst du das Stückchen Klebeband, welches das Ende des Kabels zum Dock Connector bedeckt, mit einem iFixit Opening Tool ablösen.

    • Heble sorgfältig den Stecker des Kabels zum Dock Connector mit der Kante des iFixit Opening Tools aus seinem Anschluss auf dem Logic Board.

    • Löse das Flachbandkabel zum Dock Connector vom Rückpanel ab.

  49. eCr4sFaIltOLtSZG

    • Setze dein Hebelwerkzeug unter die vier Kabel am Ende des Steckers und heble den Lautsprecherstecker behutsam aus seinem Anschluss auf dem Logic Board hoch. Heble nicht am gegenüberliegenden Ende des Steckers, weil dadurch die vier Lötstellen auf der Unterseite des Anschlusses beschädigt werden. Dies lässt sich nur durch Mikrolöten reparieren

  50. ViodwXjfnOGWNrt6
    ViodwXjfnOGWNrt6
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    vOc22fQOI6aeIGCA

    • Kippe den Sicherungsbügel, der den Stecker des Kabels zur oberen Komponentenplatine an seinem Sockel auf dem Logic Board befestigt, mit einem iFixit Opening Tool hoch.

    • Ziehe den Stecker aus seinem Anschluss auf dem Logic Board heraus.

    • Hebe das Kabel beim Ablösen nicht nach oben.

  51. jev6CIiBBYrQPqH2
    jev6CIiBBYrQPqH2
    fwGCGNZIOVyLjIfF

    • Die Halterung des Logic Boards ist mit zwei 2,1 mm Kreuzschlitzschrauben in der Nähe des Touchscreenkabelanschlusses am Rückgehäuse befestigt. Drehe sie heraus.

    • Entferne die Halterung des Logic Board vom Rückgehäuse.

  52. RxoZuaBkdFcgytmN

    • Entferne die drei restlichen 2,6 mm Kreuzschlitzschrauben, die das Logic Board am Rückgehäuse festhalten.

  53. UYYndKmbPYEDRX6J
    UYYndKmbPYEDRX6J
    GgTFs4bYiWa1suJ2

    • Heble das Logic Board behutsam mit einem iFixit Opening Tool vom Rückgehäuse hoch.

    • Das Logic Board ist am Rückgehäuse verklebt. Arbeite langsam und gleichmäßig, so dass sich der Kleber löst, ohne das Board zu beschädigen.

  54. JaLWD4ET4PsmVhUJ

    • Hebe das Logic Board aus dem Gehäuse und kippe es leicht in Richtung Akku.

    • Entferne das Logic Board noch nicht ganz. Es ist immer noch mit drei Antennenkabeln angeschlossen.

  55. Bi2iRjojOrelPF5S

    • Löse das linke Antennenkabel mit einem Öffnungswerkzeug aus seinem Anschluss auf der Kommunikationsplatine.

    Can someone please explain the four connections on the communication board. I have three antennas and 4 places to put them. Can someone explain these. I have an ipad 2 with wifi and 3g

    jacob -

    Did you ever figure this out? If so I would appreciate any help you can give.. I can't seem to find it anywhere on the internet.

    Tim Yant -

    My CDMA iPad 2 has 2 antenna wires for the left antenna, was a little different than pictured. The short wire nearest the headphone jack attached to the second silver connector from the left of the board (when board is in its proper place). The long wire attached to the left-most connector. I had to fully mobilize the board by removing the 4 screws that held the wifi antenna to the bottom of the iPad and then flip the board upwards in order to re-attach all 3 3g antenna wires.

    doog -

  56. 5mNfPikMjG4PYwIK

    • Entferne die einzelne 2,1 mm Kreuzschlitzschraube, mit der das Kabel zur Mobilfunkantenne am Rückgehäuse befestigt ist

    Perhaps I'm on the wrong repair guide. But on iPad I'm working on has an additional screw that should be pictured here. The left cellular data antenna cable has two screws securing it to the rear case. The one shown, and another to the left of the far left piece of tape.

    Smile Productions -

  57. n1KaMbIocYJWZOA4
    n1KaMbIocYJWZOA4
    owZvgYmnOA1yKglR
    gYMbQ1Ug4WBo5wjK

    • In diesem Schritt werden die zwei Stücke von Klebeband entfernt, mit denen das Mobilfunkantennenkabel am Rückgehäuse festgeklebt ist.

    • Löse die beiden Klebestreifen mit der Spudgerspitze.

  58. nVmvOyAQegkRcUpS

    • Heble dann die Antenne behutsam mit einem Öffnungswerkzeug vom Rückgehäuse weg.

  59. FSAhUVRwTJIVT6Il
    FSAhUVRwTJIVT6Il
    3Oc6SUtu31H3YIBQ

    • Hebe die Mobilfunkantenne aus ihrer Vertiefung im Rückgehäuse.

    • Ziehe das Kabel zur Mobilfunkantenne vorsichtig durch den Ausschnitt im Rückpanel und entferne die Antenne vom Gerät.

    It isn't neccessary to completely remove the left antenna through the slot. If you can get the left data cable unit out of the recess enough that the left antenna cable moves out of the way of the right antenna cables, then it is possible to continue on with the next step (go about to the point show in the picture of step 58, but don't actually pull it all the way through). This saves you the frustration of trying to get that left antenna cable back through the itty bitty slots at obnoxious angles.

    Smile Productions -

Abschluss

Um dein Gerät wieder zusammenzubauen, folge den Anweisungen in umgekehrter Reihenfolge und benutze unsere Anleitung zum Anbringen der iPad 2 CDMA Frontpanel Klebestreifen, um dein Frontpanel wieder zu befestigen.

Tinte & Feder

Jake Devincenzi

Mitglied seit: 18/04/11

116297 Reputation

2 Kommentare

It's clear to me there is two different iPads use for this tutorial. The left antenna is different in step 36 and 54ish. I'm just trying to figure out where to hook up the two left antenna cables to the logic board. Is there two different CDMA models?

Jim -

My first repair went much smoother than this one on. 10" ipad, i got in my head i could use a exacto knife to do it easilyer and cut thru the wifi and left antenna with i then had to replace. Sooo look at the comments people post under each procedure it can give you tips i found out later after i damaged a couple this , which i i had read them would not have happened. So also i used a head magnifyer with lights on the side from squadron models it was 25$ , it helped a lot. Perry

Perry Green -