Einleitung

Use this guide to replace your iPad's dock connector cable.

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    • If your display glass is cracked, keep further breakage contained and prevent bodily harm during your repair by taping the glass.

    • Lay overlapping strips of clear packing tape over the iPad's display until the whole face is covered.

    • This will keep glass shards contained and provide structural integrity when prying and lifting the display.

    • Do your best to follow the rest of the guide as described. However, once the glass is broken, it will likely continue to crack as you work, and you may need to use a metal prying tool to scoop the glass out.

    • Wear safety glasses to protect your eyes, and be careful not to damage the LCD screen.

    1) Are you recommending to cover the display with clear packing tape even if it is intact (not cracked)?

    2) If so,will the tape take the display’s oleophobic coating with it when removed?

    Mitch Stary -

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    • In this guide you will be prying the iPad's display assembly away from the aluminum body. Read ahead and follow the directions closely to avoid damaging the display assembly or the fragile clips holding it in place.

    • There are 14 metal clips holding the display assembly in place, shown at left. As you pry in the following steps, do your best to pry around these clips and not slice through them with your opening tool.

    • If you do happen to break some clips, you can buy replacements here.

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    • Insert a metal spudger between the top edge of the display assembly and the rear panel assembly.

    • Rotate the spudger away from you to release the tabs along the top edge of the display.

    • Insert a second metal spudger between the top edge of the display assembly and the rear panel assembly to keep the tabs from snapping back into place.

    Tip* "ONLY WITH METAL SPUDGER* heat it with a lighter till its warm to touch, then slide it like a butter knife. it reduces chances of chipping glass.

    luckie -

    I've found that by using a thicker iPad tool dents the back less(not at all if your careful) and start prying just under the volume button and working my way down works better as the metal clips are on all sider except the right side.

    richard -

    It would be really helpful to point out where all the clips and tabs are, and to show a picture of them (unbroken), so you know what you're trying to release.

    Styg -

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    • With one spudger, work your way along the right edge of the iPad.

    • The front panel is held to the aluminum back by metal clips on the top, bottom, and left sides. The right side has plastic tabs which slide into recesses in the backplate.

    • Once the clips are released, lift the left side of the front panel up and slide it to the left to clear the tabs from the aluminum backplate.

    • Pry carefully and gently—if you feel resistance, stop and pry at another spot.

    Its seems easier to undo the clips on the left and bottom by levering them with an iPad tool and pusing the clips in from the edge with another tool when i can visually see them. One the right side, bottom and most of the left side is done there isnt much need to do the top as it will slide off if moved about a centimeter

    richard -

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    • Lift the display assembly away from the rear panel assembly by its bottom edge.

    • Do not attempt to remove the display at this time, as it is attached to the rear panel assembly.

    By it's BOTTOM edge.

    jonathan -

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    • In the following steps, you will disconnect the three cables attaching the display assembly to the logic board. The cables are for the following components:

    • Digitizer

    • Ambient Light Sensor

    • Display Data Cable

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    • Use the edge of a plastic opening tool to flip up the retaining flaps holding the digitizer ribbon cables in their sockets on the logic board.

    • Be sure you are flipping up the retaining flap, not the socket itself.

    • Pull the digitizer ribbon cables straight out of their sockets.

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    • Use a plastic opening tool to remove the ambient light sensor connector from its socket by gently prying upward.

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    • Disconnect the display data cable from the main board by flipping up the metal retainer by its black plastic pull tab.

    • Pull the cable connector away from its socket.

    • Pull the connector parallel to the face of the logic board.

    IMHO, unhooking data display cable from the other end is preferable to the above location, since the cable itself is sealed or taped onto the assembly.

    Roger Buttermore -

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    • Remove the display assembly from the rear panel assembly.

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    • Remove the two 4.56 mm T5 Torx screws securing the dock connector cable to the main board.

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    • Remove the single 2.84 mm T5 Torx screw connecting the dock connector cable to the rear case assembly.

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    • Remove the two 2.84 mm T5 Torx screws securing the dock connector cable to the rear panel assembly.

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    • Carefully remove the plastic cover over the WiFi/Bluetooth board and dock connector cable using a plastic opening tool.

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    • Pry the Wi-Fi and Bluetooth antennas up off their respective sockets on the Wi-Fi/Bluetooth board.

    • Remove the dock connector cable from the rear panel assembly.

Abschluss

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

Miroslav Djuric

156735 Reputation

4 Kommentare

I am not sure what I did wrong, but I broke 4-5 clips when trying to open the iPad with the spudger.

jason -

I think this guide is incorrect. I bought a T5 Torx screwdriver and it was too big for the screws in my iPad. I believe you need a T4 Torx screwdriver.

markdorey -

How much if I repair my ipad air 1 for the damaged 30-pin dock here in the philippines

christine anigan -

Will this work on a iPad 1 wifi?

Joe Wong -