iPhone 4 Verizon Power Button Cable Replacement

Pra descarregar a bateria, antes de fazer o serviço, isso serve pra qualquer celular?

In my situation, the #00 screwdriver had a hard time trying to get the screws off. Using a glasses screwdriver kit may be a better alternative if the screws are resistant to the #00 screwdriver.

Unfortunately the battery screw was already stripped probably from original assembly. We used a pair of nail clippers as pliers to grab a hold of the screw by the edges to turn it. If it hadn't have been for the stripped screw it would have taken us about 10 minutes, as it was it took us 30-40 minutes if you count searching for solutions for removing the stripped screw.

I don't see the metal clip covering the antenna connector, in the photo or in my phone. Hope this isn't a deal breaker.

I don't see it either. I think the metal clip is on the model A1332. The GSM model.

The adhesive is very strong and I was initially worried about damaging the phone by prying so much. There are a couple of places below the volume switch where you can pry between the metal of the case and the battery. If you lift the battery just a little, wiggle the pry bar further in and then start moving down the case. Don't worry about bending the battery, its dead anyway.

Do not pry on the left side (circuit board side) and do not use the pull tab until the adhesive is broken loose.

I tried this at first with a plastic pry tool, and the adhesive was so strong that I broke the tool. I then used a large screwdriver and applied pressure very slowly along various places on the outer side of the battery. That eventually did the trick.

Careful here...On my phone, the little mounting screw boss (the part the screw threads into) of the top red-circled screw came unglued/welded from the underlying board, meaning the screw will no longer be able to be screwed back in.

The three 1.3 mm screws are very difficult to distinguish from the 1.5 mm screw. I spent a long time with a magnifying glass trying to tell them apart. For the other steps of the repair, I kept the screws in a tray compartment along with the piece that they connected, but for this step I recommend keeping each of the different types of screws separate.

One of the 1.3 screws stripped on the head. Any idea how to remove it? I got the other screws out.

I found it quite easy to remove the camera at this step. Just simply move the camera up and slip it to the left in order for the arm/tab to come out.

When putting the camera back in, make sure the tab on the right goes under the display and digitizer cables.

⚠️ On reassembly, before plugging in the screen/digitizer cables, put the rear facing camera back in. There's a prong on the camera that lays underneath them.

The two verizon phones I've repaired so far both have a phillips screw that screws into the flathead screw that is shown here. The grounding clip is between the phillips and the flathead. So remove the phillips, and then the grounding clip, that will reveal the flathead screw.

Echoing the notes from 'boo' and Corey -- that's exactly what I saw too. Perhaps the guide should be updated?

Can you show how this piece attaches?

This piece broke when i had to drill out stripped screw. Is it important enough to replace it?

For me, aligning the connector when putting things back together was the most difficult part of this repair. Unlike reattachment of the radio antenna in step 11, it is very difficult to see whether the male/female are aligned properly before applying pressure. Unfortunately, I have no secret as to how to accomplish this, other than to say that my WiFi is working after the repair.

can someone tell me what that flap thing is thats right behind the other? also whats its use & how important it is. ( the one thats hidden behind the other)

Now is a good time to remove the gold grounding finger. I used the condiments cups from Wendy's (fast food restaurant) to hold my screws for each step. Hope this helps.

I’d use a Phillips 00 instead of a flathead

When replacing the standoff screw closest to the dock connector, make sure it is tightened all the way down. The battery terminal screw fits in the standoff later, and if the standoff isn't tight (NOT TOO TIGHT!) then the battery will not be completely connected and your phone will power off unless tethered. This mimics a bad logic board symptom! Inspect this before replacing your logic board!

The standoff screws are very difficult to get out unless you have a very tiny (jeweler's) flathead screwdriver, which I lacked. A pocketknife did work, however.

This is correct, and if you look closely the rubber piece has a "thick" and "thin" side. The "thin" side should be facing "up" on logic board (towards back cover) while the "thick" is pointed "down" (towards screen)

It shouldn't matter. If on top, it will still be grounded through the screw. I've done both without any problems.

What happens if you accidentally lose this piece or when putting it back together it shoots somewhere

I noticed something very strange when reattaching the cable. I tightened both of the screws in Step 25, and tried pressing the power button. It did not move. Then I slightly loosened the right screw in the picture (the one toward the center of the phone) and got a satisfying click when I pressed the power button. My initial tightening of the screw was snug, but not overly so - about the same torque as was required to release most of the other screws. So many people have problems with this button that there might be some sort of design flaw in the power button assembly, which partially manifests itself by very small tolerance on the tightness of this screw.

Agree with Matt above. After tightening the screws attaching the power button bracket back onto the outer case as tightly as I could, the power but would not depress (which was the whole reason I was replacing the Power button cable - the little black button had fallen off of the power switch I was replacing). However, after loosening these screws a little bit, and testing the power button while adjusting the tightness of the screws, I was able to get the screw tightness just right so that the power button noticeably worked again.

Sorry AlSmith, for some reason I thought your post was from different user. Thanks for your advice. I was comply frustrated otherwise.

With due respect to all the wonderful step-by-step instructions on iFixit.... this guide fails terribly at its most critical and most difficult steps... 27 and 28. Getting that ribbon connector out from under the speaker device and around the silver object with the cut-out triangle is VERY CHALLENGING and not even mentioned in this guide. Some brave soul should describe and photograph these key moments which are most delicate and crucial.

I had a lot of difficulty with this step. I did not have adhesive attached to my replacement part nor double sided adhesive tape to replace it. I was able to finish by screwing the power button bracket on - but very loosely. It took some doing, but I placed the ribbon between the button and bracket - making sure to line it up properly. After it looked right I tightened it down - but it took a few attempts to get correct. I need to do it again to take a picture of exactly how the ribbon attaches to the bracket and button - I had to look at a few other videos because I didn't pay close attention during dismantling.