iPhone 4 Verizon Power Button Replacement

Geschrieben von: Andrew Bookholt

Kommentare: 67

iPhone 4 Verizon Power Button Replacement

Schwierigkeitsgrad

Difficult

Schritte

Zeitaufwand

Keine Schätzung

Einleitung

Use this guide to replace the metallic outer power button on your iPhone.

Werkzeuge

Ersatzteile

iPhone 4 Power and Lock Button

Schritt 1

Before you begin, discharge your iPhone battery below 25%. A charged lithium-ion battery can catch fire and/or explode if accidentally punctured.
Power off your iPhone before beginning disassembly.
Your phone's rear cover may have two #000 Phillips screws or Apple's 5-Point "Pentalobe" screws. Check which screws you have, and ensure you also have the correct screwdriver in order to remove them.
Remove the two 3.6 mm Pentalobe or Phillips #000 screws next to the dock connector.

Pra descarregar a bateria, antes de fazer o serviço, isso serve pra qualquer celular?

Gilmar Dutra -

Schritt 2

Push the rear panel toward the top edge of the iPhone.
The panel will move about 2 mm.

Schritt 3

Pinch the rear panel with your fingers, and lift it away from the iPhone. Alternatively, use a Small Suction Cup .
Be careful not to damage the plastic clips attached to the rear panel.

Schritt 4

Remove the single 1.5 mm Phillips screw securing the battery connector to the logic board (if present).

you do not need to take the battery out as chuck said so you dont run the risk of braking the battery connector socket from the logic board

22therealala -

Won't you need the battery removed to access the large-headed screws on the side which hold the front display?

Casey Baierl - 13/01/16

In my situation, the #00 screwdriver had a hard time trying to get the screws off. Using a glasses screwdriver kit may be a better alternative if the screws are resistant to the #00 screwdriver.

tjaeger -

Unfortunately the battery screw was already stripped probably from original assembly. We used a pair of nail clippers as pliers to grab a hold of the screw by the edges to turn it. If it hadn't have been for the stripped screw it would have taken us about 10 minutes, as it was it took us 30-40 minutes if you count searching for solutions for removing the stripped screw.

Margaret Burruss - 22/05/17

Schritt 5

Use the edge of a plastic opening tool to gently pry the battery connector up from its socket on the logic board.
Be very careful to only pry up on the battery connector and not the socket on the logic board. If you pry up on the logic board socket, you may break it entirely.
Remove the metal clip covering the antenna connector.

I don't see the metal clip covering the antenna connector, in the photo or in my phone. Hope this isn't a deal breaker.

Gary Tash - 01/10/16

I don't see it either. I think the metal clip is on the model A1332. The GSM model.

mcr4u2 - 03/09/17

Schritt 6

Pull up on the exposed clear plastic tab to peel the battery off the adhesive securing it to the iPhone.
If the tab breaks before the battery is freed, apply a few drops of high concentration (over 90%) isopropyl alcohol under the edge of the battery. Wait about one minute for the alcohol solution to weaken the adhesive. Carefully slide a spudger under the battery tab to release the adhesive.
Prying in other places may cause damage. Don't try to forcefully lever the battery out. If needed, apply a few more drops of alcohol to further weaken the adhesive. Never deform or puncture the battery with your pry tool.
If there's any alcohol solution remaining in the phone, carefully wipe it off or allow it to air dry before installing your new battery.
Remove the battery.
If your replacement battery came in a plastic sleeve, remove it before installation by pulling it away from the the ribbon cable.
Before reassembly, clean metal-to-metal contact points with a de-greaser such as windex. The oils from your fingers have the potential to cause wireless interference issues.
Perform a hard reset after reassembly. This can prevent several issues and simplify troubleshooting.

Note that the pull tab is not actually attached to the battery. It is attached to the iPhone chassis, and is only used to separate the battery from the adhesive. (Don't expect it to come out with the battery!)

Also, the adhesive is VERY strong. I had to use my plastic opening tool to assist in prying the battery loose. This is probably the most nerve-wracking part of the job.

Matt Strange -

It is much easier to slightly WARM the battery with a HAIRDRYER not a HEAT GUN to soften the adhesive. DO NOT GET BATTERY HOT AND DO NOT USE HEAT GUN

Joe -

I just did this today. Everything was as scripted. Mine had lots of adhesive and had to use plastic spudger to go around battery to loosen up. Do not use plastic tab until you can see under battery a little bit. Great instructions. Took less than 10 minutes.

kamullins4135 -

The adhesive is very strong and I was initially worried about damaging the phone by prying so much. There are a couple of places below the volume switch where you can pry between the metal of the case and the battery. If you lift the battery just a little, wiggle the pry bar further in and then start moving down the case. Don't worry about bending the battery, its dead anyway.

Do not pry on the left side (circuit board side) and do not use the pull tab until the adhesive is broken loose.

martin474 -

I tried this at first with a plastic pry tool, and the adhesive was so strong that I broke the tool. I then used a large screwdriver and applied pressure very slowly along various places on the outer side of the battery. That eventually did the trick.

alsmith1928 -

Schritt 7

Remove the two 1.8 mm Phillips screws securing the dock connector cable to the logic board.
Remove the thin metal dock connector cable cover.

Schritt 8

Use the edge of a plastic opening tool to pry the dock cable up from its socket on the logic board.

Schritt 9

Peel the dock connector cable off the adhesive securing it to the logic board and the side of the speaker enclosure.

Schritt 10

Remove the 1.6 mm Phillips screw securing the pressure contact to the logic board near the vibrator.
Remove the pressure contact.

Schritt 11

Use the edge of a plastic opening tool to pry the cellular antenna cable up from its socket on the logic board.
De-route the cellular antenna cable out from under the metal fingers attached to the logic board.
When reconnecting the antenna wire be VERY certain that the round connector at the end of the wire is centered on its mating half on the motherboard before applying pressure. Failure to do so will likely destroy both halves of the connector.

Schritt 12

Remove the following five screws:
Three 1.3 mm Phillips screws
One 1.5 mm Phillips screw
One 2.4 mm Phillips screw

Careful here...On my phone, the little mounting screw boss (the part the screw threads into) of the top red-circled screw came unglued/welded from the underlying board, meaning the screw will no longer be able to be screwed back in.

usnmustanger -

The three 1.3 mm screws are very difficult to distinguish from the 1.5 mm screw. I spent a long time with a magnifying glass trying to tell them apart. For the other steps of the repair, I kept the screws in a tray compartment along with the piece that they connected, but for this step I recommend keeping each of the different types of screws separate.

alsmith1928 -

One of the 1.3 screws stripped on the head. Any idea how to remove it? I got the other screws out.

kayers - 19/01/15

Schritt 13

Lift the cable cover from its edge nearest the top of the iPhone.
Pull the cable cover tabs out of their slots cut into the EMI shield on the logic board and remove it from the iPhone.

Schritt 14

Use the edge of a plastic opening tool to pry the rear camera connector up from its socket on the logic board.
Be careful not to break any components off the surrounding area on the logic board as you pry upwards.
Remove the rear camera from the iPhone.
Be careful not to scratch the back of the display assembly after the removal of the rear facing camera.

Better to delay removing the camera and its cable until the Display and Digitizer cables are removed as there is an arm on the right side of the camera that slips under the other cables.

ed50buffalo -

I agree with ed -- move the camera removal step until after Step 16, after the digitizer and display cables have been removed, as there is a tab/arm on the camera's cable that should go under these two cables during reassembly.

Chris Kovach -

I found it quite easy to remove the camera at this step. Just simply move the camera up and slip it to the left in order for the arm/tab to come out.

Kent -

When putting the camera back in, make sure the tab on the right goes under the display and digitizer cables.

Calion -

Schritt 15

Disconnect the five cables near the top of the logic board in the following order:
Headphone jack/volume button cable
Power button cable
Front facing camera cable
Digitizer cable
Display data cable
To disconnect the cables, use the edge of a plastic opening tool to gently lift their connectors up and out of the sockets on the logic board.
Be careful not to break any of the small and delicate surface mount components as you disconnect the cables.

The Digitizer Cable on the new display seems to be too short. Trying to make it reach. It doesn't reach its place on the logic board. Going to disassemble and start over. (Step 15)

Any pointers?

chris -

What happened was there is a tab on the cable, and that didn't go all the way through the casing. I made this mistake about 3 times. It's not too short, just move the screen a little away from the casing, and pull the cable all the way through without ripping it.

savage24x -

⚠️ On reassembly, before plugging in the screen/digitizer cables, put the rear facing camera back in. There's a prong on the camera that lays underneath them.

I Can't Even - 26/10/16

Schritt 16

Remove the 1.5 mm Phillips #000 screw near the headphone jack.

The two verizon phones I've repaired so far both have a phillips screw that screws into the flathead screw that is shown here. The grounding clip is between the phillips and the flathead. So remove the phillips, and then the grounding clip, that will reveal the flathead screw.

boo -

take out screw on top of stand of first, then take of grounding plat, and then stand off.

Corey Berghorst -

This is correct.

savage24x -

Echoing the notes from 'boo' and Corey -- that's exactly what I saw too. Perhaps the guide should be updated?

Matt Strange -

This has been changed several times on the iphone 4 logic board manual, and the changes are always being reverted. There _IS_ a screw in step 16, but someone seems intent on not having it mentioned in the manual. Dunno why...

Mobile Rapid Response Unit -

Because it's mentioned in Step 20.

usnmustanger -

It may have been mentioned in step 20 at some point, but it isn't anymore. The phillips head screw that's mentioned in step 20 is the one holding the grounding finger to the rear-facing camera corner of the motherboard.

That said, my concerns about step 16 have since been rectified, so I suppose step 20 could've been fixed at the same time.

Mobile Rapid Response Unit -

The manual does need to be updated for the screw being inside the standoff screw.

Billy -

Some Phones such as mine (march2012) had a philips head screw here..

Anson -

There's a little rubber piece that you can see in the Step 17 & Step 21 pictures just above the yellow sticker. It fits over the edge of the board where the two ribbon cables from the display/digitizer come up through the board (Step 36). It's there to make sure the ribbon cables don't rub against the sharp edge of the board. This piece loves to fall out when pulling the logic board off. Make sure to put it back in when routing the cables in Step 36, thin edge on the bottom, thicker edge on the top.

Jere - 25/07/15

Schritt 17

Lift the small grounding clip up off the logic board and remove it from the iPhone.

one of the small prongs on the standoff near the headphone jack broke off, is this a big deal or should i not worry about it

Sam -

Don't worry about it, the stand-off just holds the wifi antenna in place

Jake -

Can you show how this piece attaches?

Mitch Frederick - 18/08/14

This piece broke when i had to drill out stripped screw. Is it important enough to replace it?

Buhz - 25/10/14

hey okay so i did all the step and my i phone screen wont work and know the power button

wont work ether help

Apolonia - 14/06/15

Schritt 18

Use the edge of a plastic opening tool to disconnect the Wi-Fi antenna cable connector from the logic board.
When reconnecting the wifi ribbon connector to the mother board be VERY certain that the round connector at the end of the ribbon cable is centered on its mating half on the motherboard before applying pressure. Failure to do so will likely destroy both halves of the connection.

For me, aligning the connector when putting things back together was the most difficult part of this repair. Unlike reattachment of the radio antenna in step 11, it is very difficult to see whether the male/female are aligned properly before applying pressure. Unfortunately, I have no secret as to how to accomplish this, other than to say that my WiFi is working after the repair.

alsmith1928 -

Schritt 19

If present, remove the piece of tape covering a Phillips screw near the power button.

Schritt 20

Remove the 2.5 mm Phillips #000 screw securing the logic board near the power button.
Remove the 4.8 mm standoff screw near the headphone jack.
Standoff screws are best removed using a standoff screwdriver or bit.
In a pinch, a small flathead screwdriver will do the job—but use extra caution to ensure it doesn't slip and damage surrounding components.

can someone tell me what that flap thing is thats right behind the other? also whats its use & how important it is. ( the one thats hidden behind the other)

Camarri -

Now is a good time to remove the gold grounding finger. I used the condiments cups from Wendy's (fast food restaurant) to hold my screws for each step. Hope this helps.

Kent -

I’d use a Phillips 00 instead of a flathead

Zach Heaton - 07/03/18

Schritt 21

Remove the 3.4 mm Phillips screw near the vibrator motor.
Remove the two 3.6 mm standoff screws along the side of the logic board nearest the battery opening.

When replacing the standoff screw closest to the dock connector, make sure it is tightened all the way down. The battery terminal screw fits in the standoff later, and if the standoff isn't tight (NOT TOO TIGHT!) then the battery will not be completely connected and your phone will power off unless tethered. This mimics a bad logic board symptom! Inspect this before replacing your logic board!

goodski -

The standoff screws are very difficult to get out unless you have a very tiny (jeweler's) flathead screwdriver, which I lacked. A pocketknife did work, however.

Calion -

Schritt 22

Carefully lift the logic board from the end closest to the speaker enclosure and slide it away from the top edge of the iPhone.
Remove the logic board.
Before reassembly, be sure to clean all metal-to-metal contact points on the logic board (not the mating halves of connectors) with a de-greaser such as windex or isopropyl alcohol. The oils on your fingers have the potential to cause grounding issues.
There's a small rectangular rubber pad at the top of the logic board that prevents the display cables from chafing against the edge of the board. If it comes loose during your repair, make sure to position it correctly when reinstalling your logic board.

When I was attempting to reinstall the logic board (step 21 in reverse), a small rubber bumper came loose from 'somewhere' on the board (I think). It isn't visible in any of the photos, so I really have no idea where it came from!

Matt Strange -

I don't see it in the pictures either, but I'm pretty sure there is a black bumper that rides on the 'top' of the logic board. I believe it reduces friction between the display/digitizer cables and the top of the logic board.

Ken McCann -

You can see this "bumper" in steps 16 and 20 (right above the yellow sticker in the pics), and it provides relief for the digitizer and display cables as they both come up and around the edge of the logic board. I put my bumper with its thicker side down towards the inside of the phone and it worked fine.

Chris Kovach -

This is correct, and if you look closely the rubber piece has a "thick" and "thin" side. The "thin" side should be facing "up" on logic board (towards back cover) while the "thick" is pointed "down" (towards screen)

Joe -

The rubber bumper has a groove in it, which rides a notch along the top edge of the logic board. Its purpose is to ease pressure between the top of the phone and the board. If you look at the top of the frame, there is a little horizontal ridge about 0.8cm (3/8") long which is just the right width of the rubber bumper.

For reference:

http://i.imgur.com/GITTv.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/IoeZV.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/Po9h8.jpg

TheIronGiant -

Your images show incorrect placement of the rubber spacer. Step 20 shows correct placement. It is just above the scan code sticker on the motherboard. That is where the ribbon cables roll over, so it makes sense.

I assume the thick side would be facing the rear of the phone, but can not be sure.?

http://d3nevzfk7ii3be.cloudfront.net/igi...

Keil Miller -

I wouldn't use Windex. It's mostly water. Why would anyone put water on a connection? Use isopropyl alcohol and be certain that it's at least 95% alcohol.

Better yet use contact cleaner or the original Brakleen (in the RED can). You can find the Brakleen at any automotive store.

Tom Brandolini -

I am having major issues with the motherboard! I have removed all the screws and done all the necessary steps, but the motherboard won't budge! It will not move at all! Help!

kcmonstr - 12/01/16

Never mind! I got it! It was like screw inception O.O

kcmonstr - 12/01/16

I experienced that when the rubber spacer had the thick side up towards the rear of the phone, the display data cable would plug in but had enough pressure from the rubber bumper pushing up that it would eventually become partially unplugged. This may not be immediately apparent while putting the phone back together because of still being partially plugged in. This was not an issue when the thin side was installed facing up towards the back of the phone.

uncletom - 30/12/16

Schritt 23

Be sure not to lose the small grounding finger for the rear facing camera near the power button.

Hope someone can ease my uncertainty: does the grounding finger for the

rear-facing camera go on TOP of the motherboard OR between the motherboard and

the standoff???

Tom Brandolini -

Under. There is nothing to ground if it went over the pcb. Look on the backside.

Keil Miller -

It shouldn't matter. If on top, it will still be grounded through the screw. I've done both without any problems.

Anthony - 21/06/14

What happens if you accidentally lose this piece or when putting it back together it shoots somewhere

Jen - 03/01/16

i didn’t see that thing when i removed the camera

meow - 28/04/20

Schritt 24

Remove the two 2.0 mm Phillips screws securing the power button bracket to the outer case.
Slightly pull the power button bracket away from the outer case.

Schritt 25

Use a pair of tweezers to remove the power button from the iPhone.
During reassembly, take note of the correct orientation of the power button. The metal loop should be facing downwards and the outward edges should be on top.

On the iPhone I was repairing, the electrical power button works, and the physical button was undamaged, but I believe there is a piece missing between them, because the physical button is loose when the screws are in place and won't press the electrical button. Please advise.

austinian -

It turns out you don't need a new button.

clatekeen -

What you need is the little orange circle with a black dot. When I pulled out my button, I discovered the little black dot was missing from the orange circle. You can take apart your headset and find 3 of them. Or you can try and add a small piece of material into the current broken button actuator.

It would be better if Ifixit it sold a sheet of these little actuators, instead of selling everyone an extra iphone power button, that nobody needs.

clatekeen -

Abschluss

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

Tinte & Feder

Andrew Bookholt

578335 Reputation

6 Kommentare

where does the little rubber piece go? on power button or bracket?

marc -

If you look at the Logic Board, the top kind of looks like steps. Find the tallest point, the go left and down one step. The piece goes at the top of this. The thinner part should face towards the back of the phone. It is to protect the LCD cable.

savage24x -

Hello! New to this comment section and love it compared to the YouTube videos that always seem to have the wrong phone... I have a Verizon CDMA iPhone 4 (not 4s). I'm having a problem with the power button. I have changed the ribbon and the button still won't click. I have checked the ribbon button with a pointed screwdriver and it clicks like it should. For example, if I did not put the metal/physical button back into the phone, it would see that I could just poke something inside to turn on and off. Is there a "spring" to the physical button? Do I have something missing? The button seems as it is in the diagrams and I wonder if the wire on the bottom of the button is supposed to provide a springing of some sort...to allow for it to "stay tall" and away from the bubble button on the ribbon. Then when the physical button is pushed it will go down and activate or push the ribbon button, and then click or spring back up. Am I missing something here? Tks GANDL2123@gmail.com

Gregory Tripp -

If someone tells you or you figure it out,can you tell me at dima_fedorov@yahoo.com,or just reply on this.

dima - 23/04/14

"the outward edges should be on top"... what? I have the iphone 4 Verizon and I've followed the instructions to the letter. I have installed the power button with the metal wire thing down towards the screen...the button slides in nicely and I have replaced the new ribbon cable with the copper button on it new and when I test the copper button on the cable itself it does click...but when installed I can't get the button to spring in and out and click like it is supposed to. What am I doing wrong...? Tks to gandL2123@gmail.com. Augusta, GA

Gregory Tripp -

I made it through this repair. I didn't need to actually replace either the power button or the switch. Once I had access to the switch, all I had to do was install a small circular piece of plastic (see that black dot under the orange tape in the last picture) under the orange tape to make the power button functional again. My iPhone is working like new!

Mike Williamson -