iPhone 4 Verizon Rückkamera austauschen

Geschrieben von: Andrew Bookholt
  • Kommentare: 21
iPhone 4 Verizon Rückkamera austauschen

Schwierigkeitsgrad

Mittel

Schritte

9

Zeitaufwand

Keine Schätzung

Einleitung

Benutze diese Anleitung, um die primäre Rückkamera deines iPhones zu entfernen.

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    • Bevor du anfängst, musst du den Akku deines iPhones auf unter 25% entladen. Ein geladener Lithium-Ionen Akku kann sich entzünden oder explodieren, fall er versehentlich beschädigt wird.

    • Schalte dein iPhone aus, bevor du es auseinanderbaust.

    • Deine iPhone Rückabdeckung ist entweder mit zwei Kreuzschlitzschrauben #000 oder Pentalobeschrauben von Apple befestigt. Schaue nach, um welche Schrauben es sich handelt, um sicher zu gehen, dass du den richtigen Schraubendreher zum Lösen hast.

    • Entferne die beiden 3,6 mm Pentalobe oder Kreuzschlitzschrauben #000 neben dem Dock Anschluss.

    Pra descarregar a bateria, antes de fazer o serviço, isso serve pra qualquer celular?

    Gilmar Dutra -

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    • Schiebe die Rückabdeckung in Richtung Oberkante des iPhones.

    • Das Abdeckung wird sich um etwa 2mm verschieben.

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    • Entferne das hintere Panel von Hand vom iPhone. Verwende alternativ einen Saugheber.

    • Achte darauf, die Kunststoffklammern, die an der Rückabdeckung befestigt sind, nicht zu beschädigen.

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    • Entferne die einzelne 1,5 mm Kreuzschlitzschraube, die den Akkustecker am Logic Board befestigt (falls vorhanden).

    you do not need to take the battery out as chuck said so you dont run the risk of braking the battery connector socket from the logic board

    22therealala -

    Won't you need the battery removed to access the large-headed screws on the side which hold the front display?

    Casey Baierl -

    In my situation, the #00 screwdriver had a hard time trying to get the screws off. Using a glasses screwdriver kit may be a better alternative if the screws are resistant to the #00 screwdriver.

    tjaeger -

    Unfortunately the battery screw was already stripped probably from original assembly. We used a pair of nail clippers as pliers to grab a hold of the screw by the edges to turn it. If it hadn't have been for the stripped screw it would have taken us about 10 minutes, as it was it took us 30-40 minutes if you count searching for solutions for removing the stripped screw.

    Margaret Burruss -

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    • Benutze die Kante eines Plastiköffnungswerkzeugs um den Akkustecker vorsichtig aus seinem Anschluss auf dem Logic Board nach oben zu hebeln.

    • Achte sehr darauf, nur am Akkustecker und nicht am Anschluss auf dem Logic Board zu hebeln. Wenn du am Anschluss auf dem Logic Board hebelst, kannst du ihn ganz abbrechen.

    • Entferne die Metallklammer, die den Antennenstecker bedeckt.

    I don't see the metal clip covering the antenna connector, in the photo or in my phone. Hope this isn't a deal breaker.

    Gary Tash -

    I don't see it either. I think the metal clip is on the model A1332. The GSM model.

    mcr4u2 -

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    • Ziehe die freiliegende durchsichtige Plastiklasche nach oben, um den Akku von dem Klebeband zu lösen, mit dem er am iPhone befestigt ist.

    • Falls die Lasche abreißt bevor der Akku gelöst ist, dann schiebe vorsichtig einen Spudger unter den Akku, um den Kleber zu lösen. An anderen Stellen zu hebeln könnte Schäden verursachen.

    • Entferne den Akku.

    • Falls dein Ersatzakku in einer Plastikhülle geliefert wurde, dann entferne sie vor dem Einbau, indem du sie vom Flachbandkabel abziehst.

    • Reinige vor dem Wiederzusammenbau alle metallenen Kontaktpunkte mit einem fettlösenden Reiniger wie Windex. Die Öle an deinen Fingern können drahtlose Interferenzen verursachen.

    • Führe nach dem Wiederzusammenbau einen Hard Reset durch. Dies verhindert diverse Probleme und vereinfacht eine eventuell trotzdem notwendige Fehlersuche.

    Note that the pull tab is not actually attached to the battery. It is attached to the iPhone chassis, and is only used to separate the battery from the adhesive. (Don't expect it to come out with the battery!)

    Also, the adhesive is VERY strong. I had to use my plastic opening tool to assist in prying the battery loose. This is probably the most nerve-wracking part of the job.

    Matt Strange -

    It is much easier to slightly WARM the battery with a HAIRDRYER not a HEAT GUN to soften the adhesive. DO NOT GET BATTERY HOT AND DO NOT USE HEAT GUN

    Joe -

    I just did this today. Everything was as scripted. Mine had lots of adhesive and had to use plastic spudger to go around battery to loosen up. Do not use plastic tab until you can see under battery a little bit. Great instructions. Took less than 10 minutes.

    kamullins4135 -

    The adhesive is very strong and I was initially worried about damaging the phone by prying so much. There are a couple of places below the volume switch where you can pry between the metal of the case and the battery. If you lift the battery just a little, wiggle the pry bar further in and then start moving down the case. Don't worry about bending the battery, its dead anyway.

    Do not pry on the left side (circuit board side) and do not use the pull tab until the adhesive is broken loose.

    martin474 -

    I tried this at first with a plastic pry tool, and the adhesive was so strong that I broke the tool. I then used a large screwdriver and applied pressure very slowly along various places on the outer side of the battery. That eventually did the trick.

    alsmith1928 -

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    • Entferne folgende fünf Schrauben:

    • Drei 1,3 mm Kreuzschlitzschrauben

    • Eine 1,5 mm Kreuzschlitzschraube

    • Eine 2,4 mm Kreuzschlitzschraube

    Careful here...On my phone, the little mounting screw boss (the part the screw threads into) of the top red-circled screw came unglued/welded from the underlying board, meaning the screw will no longer be able to be screwed back in.

    usnmustanger -

    The three 1.3 mm screws are very difficult to distinguish from the 1.5 mm screw. I spent a long time with a magnifying glass trying to tell them apart. For the other steps of the repair, I kept the screws in a tray compartment along with the piece that they connected, but for this step I recommend keeping each of the different types of screws separate.

    alsmith1928 -

    One of the 1.3 screws stripped on the head. Any idea how to remove it? I got the other screws out.

    kayers -

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    • Hebe die Kabelabdeckung an der Kante oben am iPhones an.

    • Ziehe die Rasten der Kabelabdeckung aus ihren Schlitzen in der EMI Abdeckung auf dem Logic Board und entferne sie vom iPhone.

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    • Benutze die Kante eines Plastiköffnungswerkzeugs, um den Stecker der Rückkamera aus seinem Anschluss auf dem Logic Board zu hebeln.

    • Achte darauf beim Hebeln keine umliegenden Komponenten auf dem Logic Board abzubrechen.

    • Entferne die Rückkamera vom iPhone.

    • Achte darauf, die Rückseite der Displayeinheit nach dem Ausbau der Rückkamera nicht zu verkratzen.

    Better to delay removing the camera and its cable until the Display and Digitizer cables are removed as there is an arm on the right side of the camera that slips under the other cables.

    ed50buffalo -

    I agree with ed -- move the camera removal step until after Step 16, after the digitizer and display cables have been removed, as there is a tab/arm on the camera's cable that should go under these two cables during reassembly.

    Chris Kovach -

    I found it quite easy to remove the camera at this step. Just simply move the camera up and slip it to the left in order for the arm/tab to come out.

    Kent -

    When putting the camera back in, make sure the tab on the right goes under the display and digitizer cables.

    Calion -

Abschluss

Um dein Gerät wieder zusammenzubauen, folge dieser Anleitung in umgekehrter Reihenfolge.

Tinte & Feder

Andrew Bookholt

578335 Reputation

2 Kommentare

This guide also works for the AT&T iPhone4S. With a little care, the RF shield can be removed without taking the battery out, though you should still disconnect it. It only takes about 20 minutes from start to finish.

Chuck Sembroski -

My 4S camera has a black rubber isolator between the portion of the logic board that runs across the top of the phone and the camera body. It was covered by a black tape piece that covers the little prong that is secured between the logic board and that mounting screw. I replaced my logic board and this thing fell out. I am not certain I have it replaced properly, but the camera does not move at all and is lined up correctly, so it does fit the space. It is a C channel that fits over the edge of the logic board. I think only some phones have this. I do not see it in *any* of the various 4S guides. If it is in there it is probably important. If you remove your camera be CAREFUL to note whether you have this .25” long 2mm thick black rubber bit. If you do, CAREFULLY inspect its orientation so you can replace it if you knock it loose. Everything still works perfectly, so at least it seems I did no harm in placing it where I did.

Wade Rackley -