iPhone 4 Verizon Upper Antenna Replacement

Geschrieben von: Andrew Bookholt
  • Kommentare: 60
iPhone 4 Verizon Upper Antenna Replacement

Schwierigkeitsgrad

Difficult

Schritte

29

Zeitaufwand

Keine Schätzung

Einleitung

Use this guide to replace your iPhone's upper antenna.

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    • Before you begin, discharge your iPhone battery below 25%. A charged lithium-ion battery can catch fire and/or explode if accidentally punctured.

    • Power off your iPhone before beginning disassembly.

    • Your phone's rear cover may have two #000 Phillips screws or Apple's 5-Point "Pentalobe" screws. Check which screws you have, and ensure you also have the correct screwdriver in order to remove them.

    • Remove the two 3.6 mm Pentalobe or Phillips #000 screws next to the dock connector.

    Pra descarregar a bateria, antes de fazer o serviço, isso serve pra qualquer celular?

    Gilmar Dutra -

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    • Push the rear panel toward the top edge of the iPhone.

    • The panel will move about 2 mm.

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    • Pinch the rear panel with your fingers, and lift it away from the iPhone. Alternatively, use a Small Suction Cup .

    • Be careful not to damage the plastic clips attached to the rear panel.

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    • Remove the single 1.5 mm Phillips screw securing the battery connector to the logic board (if present).

    you do not need to take the battery out as chuck said so you dont run the risk of braking the battery connector socket from the logic board

    22therealala -

    Won't you need the battery removed to access the large-headed screws on the side which hold the front display?

    Casey Baierl -

    In my situation, the #00 screwdriver had a hard time trying to get the screws off. Using a glasses screwdriver kit may be a better alternative if the screws are resistant to the #00 screwdriver.

    tjaeger -

    Unfortunately the battery screw was already stripped probably from original assembly. We used a pair of nail clippers as pliers to grab a hold of the screw by the edges to turn it. If it hadn't have been for the stripped screw it would have taken us about 10 minutes, as it was it took us 30-40 minutes if you count searching for solutions for removing the stripped screw.

    Margaret Burruss -

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    • Use the edge of a plastic opening tool to gently pry the battery connector up from its socket on the logic board.

    • Be very careful to only pry up on the battery connector and not the socket on the logic board. If you pry up on the logic board socket, you may break it entirely.

    • Remove the metal clip covering the antenna connector.

    I don't see the metal clip covering the antenna connector, in the photo or in my phone. Hope this isn't a deal breaker.

    Gary Tash -

    I don't see it either. I think the metal clip is on the model A1332. The GSM model.

    mcr4u2 -

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    • Pull up on the exposed clear plastic tab to peel the battery off the adhesive securing it to the iPhone.

    • If the tab breaks before the battery is freed, apply a few drops of high concentration (over 90%) isopropyl alcohol under the edge of the battery. Wait about one minute for the alcohol solution to weaken the adhesive. Carefully slide a spudger under the battery tab to release the adhesive.

    • Prying in other places may cause damage. Don't try to forcefully lever the battery out. If needed, apply a few more drops of alcohol to further weaken the adhesive. Never deform or puncture the battery with your pry tool.

    • If there's any alcohol solution remaining in the phone, carefully wipe it off or allow it to air dry before installing your new battery.

    • Remove the battery.

    • If your replacement battery came in a plastic sleeve, remove it before installation by pulling it away from the the ribbon cable.

    • Before reassembly, clean metal-to-metal contact points with a de-greaser such as windex. The oils from your fingers have the potential to cause wireless interference issues.

    • Perform a hard reset after reassembly. This can prevent several issues and simplify troubleshooting.

    Note that the pull tab is not actually attached to the battery. It is attached to the iPhone chassis, and is only used to separate the battery from the adhesive. (Don't expect it to come out with the battery!)

    Also, the adhesive is VERY strong. I had to use my plastic opening tool to assist in prying the battery loose. This is probably the most nerve-wracking part of the job.

    Matt Strange -

    It is much easier to slightly WARM the battery with a HAIRDRYER not a HEAT GUN to soften the adhesive. DO NOT GET BATTERY HOT AND DO NOT USE HEAT GUN

    Joe -

    I just did this today. Everything was as scripted. Mine had lots of adhesive and had to use plastic spudger to go around battery to loosen up. Do not use plastic tab until you can see under battery a little bit. Great instructions. Took less than 10 minutes.

    kamullins4135 -

    The adhesive is very strong and I was initially worried about damaging the phone by prying so much. There are a couple of places below the volume switch where you can pry between the metal of the case and the battery. If you lift the battery just a little, wiggle the pry bar further in and then start moving down the case. Don't worry about bending the battery, its dead anyway.

    Do not pry on the left side (circuit board side) and do not use the pull tab until the adhesive is broken loose.

    martin474 -

    I tried this at first with a plastic pry tool, and the adhesive was so strong that I broke the tool. I then used a large screwdriver and applied pressure very slowly along various places on the outer side of the battery. That eventually did the trick.

    alsmith1928 -

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    • Remove the two 1.8 mm Phillips screws securing the dock connector cable to the logic board.

    • Remove the thin metal dock connector cable cover.

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    • Use the edge of a plastic opening tool to pry the dock cable up from its socket on the logic board.

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    • Peel the dock connector cable off the adhesive securing it to the logic board and the side of the speaker enclosure.

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    • Remove the 1.6 mm Phillips screw securing the pressure contact to the logic board near the vibrator.

    • Remove the pressure contact.

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    • Use the edge of a plastic opening tool to pry the cellular antenna cable up from its socket on the logic board.

    • De-route the cellular antenna cable out from under the metal fingers attached to the logic board.

    • When reconnecting the antenna wire be VERY certain that the round connector at the end of the wire is centered on its mating half on the motherboard before applying pressure. Failure to do so will likely destroy both halves of the connector.

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    • Remove the following five screws:

    • Three 1.3 mm Phillips screws

    • One 1.5 mm Phillips screw

    • One 2.4 mm Phillips screw

    Careful here...On my phone, the little mounting screw boss (the part the screw threads into) of the top red-circled screw came unglued/welded from the underlying board, meaning the screw will no longer be able to be screwed back in.

    usnmustanger -

    The three 1.3 mm screws are very difficult to distinguish from the 1.5 mm screw. I spent a long time with a magnifying glass trying to tell them apart. For the other steps of the repair, I kept the screws in a tray compartment along with the piece that they connected, but for this step I recommend keeping each of the different types of screws separate.

    alsmith1928 -

    One of the 1.3 screws stripped on the head. Any idea how to remove it? I got the other screws out.

    kayers -

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    • Lift the cable cover from its edge nearest the top of the iPhone.

    • Pull the cable cover tabs out of their slots cut into the EMI shield on the logic board and remove it from the iPhone.

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    • Use the edge of a plastic opening tool to pry the rear camera connector up from its socket on the logic board.

    • Be careful not to break any components off the surrounding area on the logic board as you pry upwards.

    • Remove the rear camera from the iPhone.

    • Be careful not to scratch the back of the display assembly after the removal of the rear facing camera.

    Better to delay removing the camera and its cable until the Display and Digitizer cables are removed as there is an arm on the right side of the camera that slips under the other cables.

    ed50buffalo -

    I agree with ed -- move the camera removal step until after Step 16, after the digitizer and display cables have been removed, as there is a tab/arm on the camera's cable that should go under these two cables during reassembly.

    Chris Kovach -

    I found it quite easy to remove the camera at this step. Just simply move the camera up and slip it to the left in order for the arm/tab to come out.

    Kent -

    When putting the camera back in, make sure the tab on the right goes under the display and digitizer cables.

    Calion -

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    • Disconnect the five cables near the top of the logic board in the following order:

    • Headphone jack/volume button cable

    • Power button cable

    • Front facing camera cable

    • Digitizer cable

    • Display data cable

    • To disconnect the cables, use the edge of a plastic opening tool to gently lift their connectors up and out of the sockets on the logic board.

    • Be careful not to break any of the small and delicate surface mount components as you disconnect the cables.

    The Digitizer Cable on the new display seems to be too short. Trying to make it reach. It doesn't reach its place on the logic board. Going to disassemble and start over. (Step 15)

    Any pointers?

    chris -

    What happened was there is a tab on the cable, and that didn't go all the way through the casing. I made this mistake about 3 times. It's not too short, just move the screen a little away from the casing, and pull the cable all the way through without ripping it.

    savage24x -

    ⚠️ On reassembly, before plugging in the screen/digitizer cables, put the rear facing camera back in. There's a prong on the camera that lays underneath them.

    I Can't Even -

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    • Remove the 1.5 mm Phillips #000 screw near the headphone jack.

    The two verizon phones I've repaired so far both have a phillips screw that screws into the flathead screw that is shown here. The grounding clip is between the phillips and the flathead. So remove the phillips, and then the grounding clip, that will reveal the flathead screw.

    boo -

    take out screw on top of stand of first, then take of grounding plat, and then stand off.

    Corey Berghorst -

    This is correct.

    savage24x -

    Echoing the notes from 'boo' and Corey -- that's exactly what I saw too. Perhaps the guide should be updated?

    Matt Strange -

    This has been changed several times on the iphone 4 logic board manual, and the changes are always being reverted. There _IS_ a screw in step 16, but someone seems intent on not having it mentioned in the manual. Dunno why...

    Mobile Rapid Response Unit -

    Because it's mentioned in Step 20.

    usnmustanger -

    It may have been mentioned in step 20 at some point, but it isn't anymore. The phillips head screw that's mentioned in step 20 is the one holding the grounding finger to the rear-facing camera corner of the motherboard.

    That said, my concerns about step 16 have since been rectified, so I suppose step 20 could've been fixed at the same time.

    Mobile Rapid Response Unit -

    The manual does need to be updated for the screw being inside the standoff screw.

    Billy -

    Some Phones such as mine (march2012) had a philips head screw here..

    Anson -

    There's a little rubber piece that you can see in the Step 17 & Step 21 pictures just above the yellow sticker. It fits over the edge of the board where the two ribbon cables from the display/digitizer come up through the board (Step 36). It's there to make sure the ribbon cables don't rub against the sharp edge of the board. This piece loves to fall out when pulling the logic board off. Make sure to put it back in when routing the cables in Step 36, thin edge on the bottom, thicker edge on the top.

    Jere -

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    • Lift the small grounding clip up off the logic board and remove it from the iPhone.

    one of the small prongs on the standoff near the headphone jack broke off, is this a big deal or should i not worry about it

    Sam -

    Don't worry about it, the stand-off just holds the wifi antenna in place

    Jake -

    Can you show how this piece attaches?

    Mitch Frederick -

    This piece broke when i had to drill out stripped screw. Is it important enough to replace it?

    Buhz -

    hey okay so i did all the step and my i phone screen wont work and know the power button

    wont work ether help

    Apolonia -

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    • Use the edge of a plastic opening tool to disconnect the Wi-Fi antenna cable connector from the logic board.

    • When reconnecting the wifi ribbon connector to the mother board be VERY certain that the round connector at the end of the ribbon cable is centered on its mating half on the motherboard before applying pressure. Failure to do so will likely destroy both halves of the connection.

    For me, aligning the connector when putting things back together was the most difficult part of this repair. Unlike reattachment of the radio antenna in step 11, it is very difficult to see whether the male/female are aligned properly before applying pressure. Unfortunately, I have no secret as to how to accomplish this, other than to say that my WiFi is working after the repair.

    alsmith1928 -

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    • If present, remove the piece of tape covering a Phillips screw near the power button.

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    • Remove the 2.5 mm Phillips #000 screw securing the logic board near the power button.

    • Remove the 4.8 mm standoff screw near the headphone jack.

    • Standoff screws are best removed using a standoff screwdriver or bit.

    • In a pinch, a small flathead screwdriver will do the job—but use extra caution to ensure it doesn't slip and damage surrounding components.

    can someone tell me what that flap thing is thats right behind the other? also whats its use & how important it is. ( the one thats hidden behind the other)

    Camarri -

    Now is a good time to remove the gold grounding finger. I used the condiments cups from Wendy's (fast food restaurant) to hold my screws for each step. Hope this helps.

    Kent -

    I’d use a Phillips 00 instead of a flathead

    Zach Heaton -

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    • Remove the 3.4 mm Phillips screw near the vibrator motor.

    • Remove the two 3.6 mm standoff screws along the side of the logic board nearest the battery opening.

    When replacing the standoff screw closest to the dock connector, make sure it is tightened all the way down. The battery terminal screw fits in the standoff later, and if the standoff isn't tight (NOT TOO TIGHT!) then the battery will not be completely connected and your phone will power off unless tethered. This mimics a bad logic board symptom! Inspect this before replacing your logic board!

    goodski -

    The standoff screws are very difficult to get out unless you have a very tiny (jeweler's) flathead screwdriver, which I lacked. A pocketknife did work, however.

    Calion -

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    • Carefully lift the logic board from the end closest to the speaker enclosure and slide it away from the top edge of the iPhone.

    • Remove the logic board.

    • Before reassembly, be sure to clean all metal-to-metal contact points on the logic board (not the mating halves of connectors) with a de-greaser such as windex or isopropyl alcohol. The oils on your fingers have the potential to cause grounding issues.

    • There's a small rectangular rubber pad at the top of the logic board that prevents the display cables from chafing against the edge of the board. If it comes loose during your repair, make sure to position it correctly when reinstalling your logic board.

    When I was attempting to reinstall the logic board (step 21 in reverse), a small rubber bumper came loose from 'somewhere' on the board (I think). It isn't visible in any of the photos, so I really have no idea where it came from!

    Matt Strange -

    I don't see it in the pictures either, but I'm pretty sure there is a black bumper that rides on the 'top' of the logic board. I believe it reduces friction between the display/digitizer cables and the top of the logic board.

    Ken McCann -

    You can see this "bumper" in steps 16 and 20 (right above the yellow sticker in the pics), and it provides relief for the digitizer and display cables as they both come up and around the edge of the logic board. I put my bumper with its thicker side down towards the inside of the phone and it worked fine.

    Chris Kovach -

    This is correct, and if you look closely the rubber piece has a "thick" and "thin" side. The "thin" side should be facing "up" on logic board (towards back cover) while the "thick" is pointed "down" (towards screen)

    Joe -

    The rubber bumper has a groove in it, which rides a notch along the top edge of the logic board. Its purpose is to ease pressure between the top of the phone and the board. If you look at the top of the frame, there is a little horizontal ridge about 0.8cm (3/8") long which is just the right width of the rubber bumper.

    For reference:

    http://i.imgur.com/GITTv.jpg

    http://i.imgur.com/IoeZV.jpg

    http://i.imgur.com/Po9h8.jpg

    TheIronGiant -

    Your images show incorrect placement of the rubber spacer. Step 20 shows correct placement. It is just above the scan code sticker on the motherboard. That is where the ribbon cables roll over, so it makes sense.

    I assume the thick side would be facing the rear of the phone, but can not be sure.?

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    Keil Miller -

    I wouldn't use Windex. It's mostly water. Why would anyone put water on a connection? Use isopropyl alcohol and be certain that it's at least 95% alcohol.

    Better yet use contact cleaner or the original Brakleen (in the RED can). You can find the Brakleen at any automotive store.

    Tom Brandolini -

    I am having major issues with the motherboard! I have removed all the screws and done all the necessary steps, but the motherboard won't budge! It will not move at all! Help!

    kcmonstr -

    Never mind! I got it! It was like screw inception O.O

    kcmonstr -

    I experienced that when the rubber spacer had the thick side up towards the rear of the phone, the display data cable would plug in but had enough pressure from the rubber bumper pushing up that it would eventually become partially unplugged. This may not be immediately apparent while putting the phone back together because of still being partially plugged in. This was not an issue when the thin side was installed facing up towards the back of the phone.

    uncletom -

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    • Be sure not to lose the small grounding finger for the rear facing camera near the power button.

    Hope someone can ease my uncertainty: does the grounding finger for the

    rear-facing camera go on TOP of the motherboard OR between the motherboard and

    the standoff???

    Tom Brandolini -

    Under. There is nothing to ground if it went over the pcb. Look on the backside.

    Keil Miller -

    It shouldn't matter. If on top, it will still be grounded through the screw. I've done both without any problems.

    Anthony -

    What happens if you accidentally lose this piece or when putting it back together it shoots somewhere

    Jen -

    i didn’t see that thing when i removed the camera

    meow -

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    • Use the edge of a plastic opening tool to peel the upper antenna off the headphone jack.

    I notice in step 24 there is a silver bracket with fins that isn't there in step 25, how do you remove the silver bracket.

    Jeff Massengale -

    That is a metal retainer cage around (behind) Front Facing Camera. It fastens as a clip with three "claws" (or another descriptive word, "fingers").

    See: iPhone 4 Verizon Front Facing Camera Replacement

    unsubstantiated -

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    • Remove the 2.4 mm Phillips screw next to the headphone jack.

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    • Use the edge of a plastic opening tool to gently move the top antenna contact away from the headphone jack.

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    • Use the edge of a plastic opening tool to peel the top microphone away from the outer case.

    • Pull the body of the headphone jack away from the top edge of the iPhone.

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    • Remove the 2.5 mm Phillips screw securing the upper antenna to the outer case.

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    • Remove the upper antenna from the iPhone.

    • Before reassembly, be sure to clean the metal-to-metal contact point on the upper antenna (not the mating halves of its connector) with a de-greaser such as windex or isopropyl alcohol. The oils on your fingers have the potential to cause wireless interference issues.

Abschluss

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

Tinte & Feder

Andrew Bookholt

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