iPhone 8 Akku tauschen

Geschrieben von: Jeff Suovanen

Kommentare: 217

Schwierigkeitsgrad

Mittel

Schritte

Zeitaufwand

30 Minuten - 2 Stunden

Einleitung

Mit Hilfe dieser Anleitung kannst du die Akkulaufzeit und die Leistung deines iPhone 8 mit einem neuen Akku wieder verlängern. Wenn dein Akku aufgebläht ist, musst du entsprechende Vorsichtsmaßnahmen treffen.

In dieser Anleitung wird auch die Displayeinheit ausgebaut, um Schäden an den Displaykabeln zu vermeiden. Wenn du dich sicher genug fühlst, den Austausch meistern zu können, ohne die Displaykabel zu überlasten, dann kannst du die Schritte mit dem Ausbau des Displays einfach überspringen.

Es ist zwar möglich, die Klebestreifen am Akku gleich nach dem Öffnen des Smartphones zu entfernen, die schriftliche Anleitung empfiehlt aber, zuerst die Taptic Engine zu entfernen. Elastische Klebestreifen sollen in einem flachen Winkel herausgezogen werden. So vermeidest du, dass die unteren Klebestreifen versehentlich zerreißen, entweder, weil sie an der Taptic Engine hängen bleiben, oder weil du sie eben unter einem zu großem Winkel herausgezogen hast.

Für eine optimale Leistung sollte der neu eingebaute Akku nach Abschluss der Reparatur kalibriert werden: Lade ihn auf 100% auf, und lasse ihn mindesten zwei weitere Stunden laden. Benutze dann dein iPhone bis es sich aufgrund eines leeren Akkus ausschaltet. Lade den Akku dann erneut ohne Unterbrechung auf 100% auf.

Werkzeuge

Ersatzteile

Schritt 1

Bevor du anfängst, sollte der Akku deines iPhones auf weniger als 25% entladen sein. Ein geladener Lithium-Ionen Akku kann Feuer fangen und/oder explodieren, wenn er beschädigt wird.
Schalte dein iPhone aus, bevor du daran arbeitest.
Drehe die beiden 3,5 mm Pentalobe Schrauben an der unteren Kante heraus.
Wenn du das iPhone öffnest, werden die Dichtungen beschädigt. Halte deshalb Ersatzdichtungen bereit, bevor du weitermachst, oder achte beim Wiederzusammenbau penibel darauf, dass keine Flüssigkeit eindringen kann, wenn du keine neuen Dichtungen verwenden möchtest.

just how long are those screws- i turn and turn and turn and the lift off is soooo slight, seemingly insignificant…

An. Jahnke - 27/12/20

I would recommend, from the very beginning, dumping all tools out of the kit (if you got it) and using that white paper tool box as a tray to organize the screws and braces in. It’s nice to work over because it catches screws well and makes it easy to see them if you drop any.

Johnny Emrica -

That’s a great idea thank you

Mohamed Dekkiche -

Screw to the left of the charging port will not come out. Screw on the right came out no problem. Any ideas?

Bill Maher -

Schritt 2

Es ist leichter das iPhone zu öffnen, wenn du das untere Ende erwärmst, so werden die Verklebungen aufgeweicht.
Du kannst das untere Ende des iPhones mit einem Haartrockner oder einem iOpener etwa 90 Sekunden lang erwärmen, dann sollte der Kleber weich genug sein.

No hair dryer so GENTLY heated over stove burner

John Toth - 13/10/20

Hello,

What temperature is suitable for removing the front display ? I bought i-Fixit ProTech which is not include the heating "roller" . Thanks for help

Jiří Sítko - 28/01/21

Ich habe eine heiße Wärmflasche verwendet. Das hat gut funktioniert :-)

Moritz Hartges - 18/04/21

I laid my phone face-down on my 3D printer’s heated bed, and set the temperature to 60 C. After a few minutes, it was ready to loosen.

Nate B -

If you don’t have an “iOpener” or heat gun, try using an electric heating pad. I have a small $11 pad I got at CVS for my knee. On medium heat it worked fine for removal and with the “pennies” for setting the new seal.

Pete P -

I used a heated tea kettle and a tea towel, it worked!

Adam Yavner -

I put on the furnace vent for 10 minutes to get it warm to the touch but not hot.

terrelldoc -

I attached it to the after burner of my rocket ship and that worked.

Matt Brown -

I'm holding mine just above an erupting volcano but I'm still waiting to see if it has worked. How long does it need?

Paul Aron -

Schritt 3

Die nächsten beiden Schritte zeigen die Benutzung der Anti-Clamp. Wenn du sie nicht verwenden willst, überspringe die nächsten zwei Schritte und folge einer anderen Methode.
Genaue Anweisungen, wie die Anti-Clamp benutzt wird, findest du hier.
Drücke den blauen Griff zum Scharnier hin, um den Öffnungsmodus einzustellen.
Bringe die Saugheber direkt über dem Home Button am Display an, einen auf der Vorderseite, den anderen auf der Rückseite.
Drücke die Saugheber auf den Oberflächen fest.
Wenn die Saugheber nicht gut auf den Flächen haften, dann klebe Paketband darüber.

Schritt 4

Drücke den blauen Griff vom Scharnier weg in die Stellung für den Öffnungsmodus.
Drehe den Griff im Uhrzeigersinn, bis du merkst, dass sich die Saugheber dehnen.
Achte darauf, dass sich die Saugheber weiterhin gegenüber stehen. Wenn sie sich nicht mehr gegenüber stehen, dann löse die Saugheber ein wenig ab und schiebe sie in die richtige Position.
Warte eine Minute, damit sich der Kleber allmählich ablösen kann und sich das Display unten löst.
Wenn es nicht gelingt, mit der Anti-Clamp einen ausreichend großen Spalt zu erzeugen, dann erwärme die Stelle nochmals und drehe den Griff eine halbe Umdrehung im Uhrzeigersinn weiter.
Drehe den Griff jeweils nicht mehr als eine halbe Umdrehung weiter und warte jedes Mal eine Minute lang. Gib der Anti-Clamp Zeit, ihre Arbeit zu erledigen.
Überspringe die nächsten zwei Schritte .

Schritt 5

Setze einen Saugnapf auf die untere Hälfte der Vorderseite , direkt über den Home Button.
Passe dabei auf, dass der Saugnapf den Home Button nicht bedeckt, sonst kann der nicht mehr dicht abschließen.
Wenn dein Display stark gesplittert ist, dann haftet der Saugheber vielleicht besser, wenn du die Scheibe mit durchsichtigem Paketband abdeckst. Du kannst anstelle des Saughebers auch sehr kräftiges Klebeband benutzen. Wenn das alles nicht hilft, dann klebe den Saugheber mit Sekundenkleber an der zerbrochenen Scheibe fest.

Even with using high heat from a blow dryer, I had to put the suction cup over the home button or the bottom edge wouldn’t lift at all. That waterproof adhesive is incredibly strong.

Aaron Soderholm - 04/12/20

As others have said, this part really stinks, but it’ll work if you keep trying. Agree with multiple rounds of hair dryer on high (did about 60-90s each time), and with having to out the suction cup over the home button. You don’t need a big gap to pry it open - it’ll be slight …

Johnny Emrica -

Patience is the key here. Expletives and patience. Like previous comments say, putting the suction cup over the home button (I used packing tape to maintain the seal) will allow you to apply force to the proper location to separate the screen. Good luck!

J Rawlinson -

Get a suction cup pliers. It’ll make this part fun

Bradley Steiner -

iSclack EVO opened the iPhone easily even without heating with no fear of accidentally over-opening it like with a simple suction cup.

Matti Haveri -

Schritt 6

Ziehe gleichmäßig und fest am Saugnapf. Es sollte sich ein kleiner Spalt zwischen Front Panel und Rückgehäuse bilden.
Setze ein Plektrum in den Spalt ein.
Die wasserdichte Verklebung am Display ist sehr stark. Um den Spalt zu öffnen, musst du recht viel Kraft aufbringen. Wenn du Schwierigkeiten hast, solltest du nochmals Wärme anwenden und dann die Scheibe vorsichtig hoch und runter ruckeln, um so die Klebeverbindung zu schwächen, bis du genug Platz hast, um dein Werkzeug einzuführen.

The screen on my phone was so broken, a suction cup did not work, so I softened the adhesive with a blow dryer and used a Jimmy to carefully pry open the phone from the bottom just enough to slip a pick in.

charguy - 31/05/18

Just completed a smashed screen replacement, this is probably the most time consuming part. Used packing tape to cover the screen to help create a suction surface (had to replace it a couple times because it pulls away after a purple good pulls ) Used consistent heat for about 5 minutes, then stuck a pick in the tiniest opening… and pry pry pry!

Brian Gill - 29/09/19

I failed at this step. No amount of heating, pulling, and rocking opened up enough of a gap to slip in even a knife let alone the blue plastic tool. That's with a phone that has an undamaged screen - just trying to replace the battery. Apple won this round :(

Michael Sherman - 31/05/21

Be really careful here. I placed a sucker to the front and rear to help lever off the screen. However, the whole thing came away much easier than I anticipated and I ripped the front part completely away from the rear, tearing all three connector cables. New iPhone required.

Chris Wood -

Note that the opening pick they show here does not appear to come with the kit, which is a bummer! The plunger, the mini blue crowbar thing, these are too thick. I ended up using a really thin guitar pick.

Johnny Emrica -

Following careful methods can mostly preserve the seal and reusable. Won’t be as water tight but probably still pretty good.

Bottom edge is pull up with suction + separating tool. Use small precision scissor to cut any tape that gets overly stretched upon initial opening.

- For the 2 long edges, use an exacto knife to separate the seal from the screen. This keeps the tape on the chassis. Go slow along the long sides. Becareful to avoid scratching the paint on underside of the screen’s edge.

- Top corners have a thick sealed tape. Best to just use separating tool to twist it open.

In summary, top and bottom edge use separating tool. Side long edges can use exacto knife to gradually gently separate the seal from underside of the screen’s edge.

Howard -

4 picks and an exacto knife, plus 45 minutes later, I finally got it to open! Thanks tor the tip!

Cat -

Intact screen, check. Tool kit, check. Hair dryer hot enough to make the phone too hot to touch, check. Following all instructions, check. Screen still in place and refusing to come off, check.

I heated, reheated, pulled and pulled. I simply could not get it off. Worked at it for an hour and a half, and I’m not a small guy. Yes it is hard to hold, but could get a grip. Just could not get it to budge. Off to the iPhone repair shop tomorrow. Anybody want to buy a repair kit and replacement battery?

Jim Meyers -

After struggling for 30m, I looked up some alternate methods and found this helpful:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=25zAK5mG...

- I used a utility knife and pried up right under the home button

- the angle matters! I was trying to go too far down before going in. The top surface of the phone is rather thin, so you go in after barely getting under the chassis lip

- tilt utility knife left to right once you’ve got it under to work it in

- leave the utility knife in, and now add that pick

Jared Wilk -

Pro-tip: don't be an idiot like me. Instead, remove the screen protector you have on the phone before applying the suction cups. Derp.

hunter.geofizz -

I struggled with a hair dryer at first and a singular suction cup. However, I tried putting packing tape on the spot where I put the suction job (even though my screen isn't cracked) and I was able to do it first try with ease. Definitely recommend packing tape.

Alessio Toniolo -

Suction cup pliers. Dead easy

Bradley Steiner -

Schritt 7

Schiebe das Plektrum entlang der linken Kante von der unteren Ecke an nach oben in Richtung der Tasten für die Lautstärkeregelung und des Stummschalters. Trenne so die Klebeverbindung des Displays auf.
Halte vor der oberen linken Ecke an.
Versuche nicht, die Oberkante des Displays vom Rückgehäuse wegzuhebeln, denn hier halten Plastikclips die Teile zusammen. Die Clips könnten abbrechen.

My Plektrum worked ok, but the edges broke off a bit towards the end

griffin.weber -

Schritt 8

Setze das Plektrum an der rechten unteren Ecke ein. Schiebe es um die Ecke herum, dann entlang der rechten Kante nach oben. Trenne dadurch die Verklebung.
Setze das Plektrum nicht zu tief ein, du könntest auf dieser Seite diverse Displaykabel beschädigen. Schiebe es nur wenige Millimeter tief ein, ungefähr in der Breite des Displayrahmens.

No pick in the kit you sent me.

Ted Cooper -

Schritt 9

Hebe vorsichtig den Saugnapf an und mit ihm den unteren Teil des Displays.
Hebe das Display maximal 15° an. Du könntest sonst die Flachbandkabel des Displays überdehnen und beschädigen.
Ziehe an der kleinen Lasche am Saugnapf, um ihn vom Front Panel zu lösen.

Schritt 10

Schiebe das Plektrum unter das Display um die obere linke Ecke und die Oberkante entlang, um die letzte Klebeverbindung zu trennen.

I did end up using just a smidge of IFIXIT adhesive remover along the edge before opening and that seemed to really help

Karen Flowers -

I have been using the pointed tweezers to pull the adhesive strands apart and out as the display comes off.

Adam Yavner -

Schritt 11

Schiebe die Displayeinheit leicht nach unten, weg von der Oberkante, um die Clips zu lösen, mit denen sie am Rückgehäuse gehalten wird.

Schritt 12

Öffne das iPhone, indem du das Display von der linken Seite her umklappst, so wie wenn du ein Buch öffnest.
Versuche noch nicht, das Display ganz zu trennen. Verschiedene empfindliche Flachbandkabel verbinden es noch mit dem Logic Board.
Lehne das Display an einen geeigneten Gegenstand, um es gut zu stützen, während du weiter am iPhone arbeitest.

Nach RECHTS klappen - nicht nach links!

Manfred Wachtel - 12/05/20

Als ich das Flachbandkabel auf der rechten Seite sah, hab ich mich auch gefragt, ob die das mit nach Links klappen ernst meinen, und das „Buch“ lieber auf japanische Art nach rechts aufgeklappt. Das sollte dringend in der Anleitung korrigiert werden!

Sebastian Plickert - 23/04/21

“Up from the left” means lift up the left side.

Which is the same as folding to the right.

“Like the back cover of a book” explains it even more clearly.

Maybe it gets lost in translation?

Nick Shtangey -

Fold to THE RIGHT - not to the left!

Jim Glenys -

When I saw the ribbon cable on the right side, I also wondered if they were serious about folding it to the left, and the "book" would rather be opened to the right in the Japanese way.This should be corrected urgently in the manual!

Jim Glenys -

Hi Jim, the display opens from the left side, toward the right side. It should look like the back cover of a book. Hope this helps. Good luck with the repair!

Adam O'Camb -

Schritt 13

Entferne vier Kreuzschlitzschrauben, mit denen die Halterung des unteren Displaykabels am Logic Board befestigt sind. Sie haben folgende Längen:
Zwei 1,3 mm Schrauben.
Zwei 2,8 mm Schrauben.
Halte deine Schrauben während der ganzen Reparatur wohlgeordnet. Jede Schraube muss beim Zusammenbau wieder an ihren alten Ort zurück. Eine falsche Schraube am falschen Ort kann dauerhafte Schäden verursachen.
Entferne die Halterung.

Not Y000 this time haha

Easy Repair - 19/03/18

can same length screws mixed up?

Brook布魯克 - 21/11/19

It is not ideal, but possible for these screws.

Arthur Shi - 21/11/19

using the repair kit i purchased with my screen replacement, i am currently having issues removing these screws with the PH000. please help

Mark Ordaz - 25/04/20

I was too, thankfully I had another set that contained the PH00 bit, that worked great for me.

William Mitchell - 04/05/20

Ok. My screw is stuck. How do I remove it? Philips head is stripped.

Kristina Graham - 12/09/20

Solved it myself. Firm pressure did the trick.

Kristina Graham - 12/09/20

Takes a little pressure with the Philips head

John Toth - 13/10/20

Upon this step, I noticed I had no bracket or screws. I had my screen replaced previously and I’m disappointed to find out the repairperson made no effort to replace these parts. I’ll start trusting myself more to do my own repairs.

O D -

took me awhile to figure out I needed to use PHOO bit for the 2 -1.3 screws

Karen Flowers -

It is important to keep careful track of the screws' position. Have a tidy workplace -- a few times when I tried to re-attach the very tiny screws with the tweezer, they slipped and flew away and I almost lost them.

Matti Haveri -

can you strip the screws / how can you tell if its strip or not

antonio -

Schritt 14

Heble den Akkuanschluss mit der Spudgerspitze aus seinem Sockel auf dem Logic Board.
Biege das Akku Anschlusskabel etwas weg vom Logic Board, um zu verhindern, dass es sich versehentlich wieder mit dem Akku verbindet und das iPhone während der Reparatur unter Spannung setzt.

Make sure you pry the battery connector off from the right hand side as shown in the picture. Theres a delicate component on the logicboard near the battery connector called a Mosfet which is linked to the battery charging software. If you knock it off accidently you’ll loose battery charging and the phone will boot loop and youll need to have it re-soldered back on.

Gareth - 23/08/20

I can confirm this as I learned my lesson by unknowingly prying the mosfet off. The phone will not charge now and is useless. I really wish they would add a note about this on Step 12 as a warning.

Jeff -

So this is it. You don’t have to go any further removing the screen. You can replace the battery right from this point.

John M - 02/12/20

I wish I saw this comment 2 hours ago

Kenneth Moore - 12/05/21

If I have to repeat this, I'd also consider removing replacing the battery at this point. The loose display must be then carefully fixed so the connectors don't break. And then it is not possible to re-attach the waterproof seal.

The waterproof seal was included in the kit, but there were no instructions for it so I now skipped that. I later found YouTube video which seems to describe it (starting at 7:40):

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RcgGRhaX...

Matti Haveri -

This is where I broke my phone, a phone that was working quite well, paid for in full. Just because I had a cracked screen. Be super careful when connecting the cables. I was in a hurry and not paying attention, used too much force when re-connecting and broke those teeny little pins that could not be repaired. A tech tried for an hour to no avail. cautionary tale. Good luck

Karen Flowers -

The display ribbon is a certain length and allows for some give, but behind it is hidden the Home button/TouchID ribbon, which sits against what amounts to a razor blade. This ribbon is much more taut than the display one, and therefore you have far less freedom of movement than you think you do. This is absolutely an intentional trap to discourage replacing your own battery. Quite frankly, it’s despicable.

Anyway, so beware of that, because although I was very careful and did not even swing the screen very far (not more than 90°), the Home button ribbon tore and now needs to be serviced. Home button is disabled now.

Apple should be ashamed of themselves for this. Please do look at the legislation effort that people are doing to try to get this kind of sabotage illegal, as well as all sorts of other gimmicks they pull. For a company that makes phenomenal products, they’re controlling like an abusive spouse.

Dan Knight

daniel -

That happened to me and I could not figure out how it got broken. It's the home button and fingerprint reader.

But I'm not bothering to get it fixed and I'm not replacing the entire screen. I went into system prefs/accessibility and activated the on-screen home button. Oh, well.

robin -

I cannot get the new battery reconnected to the connection port. Any tips/tricks? New and old battery connections appear similar. It wasn't difficult to disconnect to old battery.

Robert Ast -

Some reports here seem to indicate that the battery must be the very last connector to re-connect because otherwise there might be malfunction in some display components?

It wasn't difficult to disconnect to old battery. But the most difficult part for me was to get the new battery reconnected to the connection port. I tried many times to carefully position and press it down with my fingertip or the flat end of the spudger but it did not hold its position. Maybe I pressed too weak because I was afraid breaking the connector and the mosfet above (?) it. But finally to my surprise it connected (at that point I temporarily booted the iPhone with the loose display to verify that the battery was connected). Whew, it succeeded!

Matti Haveri -

Schritt 15

Heble den unteren Displaystecker mit der Spudgerspitze aus seinem Sockel.
Um Druckverbinder wie diesen wieder anzuschließen, musst du erst auf einer Seite herunterdrücken, dann auf der anderen. Drücke nicht in der Mitte. Wenn der Verbinder auch nur ein bisschen daneben sitzt, kann er sich verbiegen und irreparabel beschädigt werden.

I broke the lower display connector. Is it possible to replace that part separately or do I need to buy a full screen replacement?

Ross Mckellar -

Schritt 16

Löse den Verbinder am zweiten unteren Displaykabel mit der Spudgerspitze.

Schritt 17

Entferne die drei 1,3 mm Kreuzschlitzschrauben, mit denen die Halterung über dem Verbinder der Front Panel Sensoreinheit befestigt ist.
Entferne die Halterung.

If you are replacing the adhesive liner, the remaining release liner strips will interfere with the two outer screws. I had to cut a working section out of the liner at each location and move it aside with the spudger.

Thomas Tritt - 30/03/19

This part is throwing me for a loop. Having difficulty finding the read head for these screws. Is it the same size as the two small 1.3mm screws in step 12?

Jared Hensley - 01/12/19

ended up getting it with the PH000, I must of just been rushing it.

Jared Hensley - 01/12/19

My bracket looks different and none of the screw heads I have fits.

Ray Rushing - 28/09/20

Mine too? Any help?

George Waller - 29/05/21

These screws did not stick to the magnetic screwdriver. Extremely difficult to get them back in place - but with some patience i succeeded :)

Niklas Brammer - 19/01/21

Schritt 18

Löse den Verbinder der Front Panel Sensoreinheit mit der Spudgerspitze.

Do you have a link for the flex cord shown in the pictures so I can purchase it? Having a hard time locating that exact assembly

Regal Carveiro -

Schritt 19

Entferne die Displayeinheit.
Beim Wiederzusammenbau wäre das jetzt der Moment, in dem du die die Klebestreifen um die Kanten des Displays erneuern kannst, wenn du willst.

Hi ifixit, if you find my method dangerous, please remove it.

After Step 17, I skipped Step 18 to Step 28.

At Step 29, I lifted up the four adhesive black pull-tabs to expose the white adhesive side. Next, I use hot air gun and blow on the back cover of the iphone for about a minute (maybe a hairdryer will work too) .

Warning: Don't overheat the iPhone, or you may accidentally ignite the battery.

I think the temperature was around 60 DegC.

Extreme Caution: Do Not overheat. I use my hand to gauge the hotness. Careful not to burn yourself or the board.

I was able to pull out all the white adhesive tapes easily as the adhesive soften.

DO NOT TRY this method if you are a novice or inexperience! I am not responsible if you hurt yourself or damage your iphone!

John - 20/05/20

Hey John! I’m glad the repair worked out for you!

From our research, applying heat does soften the adhesive strips, but it also causes them to lose structural integrity and break more easily. That’s why we normally suggest using heat after the strips are already broken. Removing the Taptic Engine definitely takes a few extra steps, but we feel that it gives fixers the best chance of pulling out the adhesive strips intact.

Arthur Shi - 20/05/20

I agree with John, skip 18 through 27. These are to make it easier to remove the battery adhesive. I replaced the batteries on two IPhone 8s. The first one I did all that stuff and the adhesive still broken and I had to carefully pry the battery out anyway. When I reassembled the phone the Home button no longer worked. Looking it up, this is apparently fairly common due to all the fragile wires involved in these steps. The second I skipped these steps and when I reassembled it everything worked fine. Not one of the eight (both phones) adhesive strips came out properly. I fully drained the batteries before doing the repairs. By the way, I use the virtual home button on the one phone, it’s a little annoying, but the phone is still usable if you’re not ready to shell out for a new phone.

Gary Berman - 06/04/21

I also skipped removing the Taptic Engine. I could only half-way pull the lower battery tapes and completely the upper tapes after carefully prying them loose with the tweezer. I then used a hair-dryer for a minute to warm the battery and the other side of the phone (I used my other hand to make sure I did not apply too much heat. Make sure you do not blow the tiny loose screws away with the hair dryer!) and then slowly lifted the upper battery somewhat with the Opening pics tool, then re-heated the lower remaining tapes and quite easily lifted the battery out.

I had bought two-sided tape to reconnect the battery but it had the tapes pre-installed (I wonder if it is necessary to tape the battery at all?).

Matti Haveri -

I also skipped these steps. I won’t say it was entirely successful - two of the four adhesive strips broke and could not be grabbed with tweezers. But I had gotten most of the adhesive out already and the battery was quite loose, so I used a warmer under the phone, then gently slid a flat plastic blade under one end of the battery and slowly worked it up the phone. (Dental floss would have been safer-don’t do what I did, kids!)

Matt D - 30/05/21

Likely can skip step 18-28 and all the risks. Battery tape is relatively removable by the following method

- use a tweezer to pull up a corner of each tape. Then use fingers to peel back all the black tab on top of battery

- use 2 hands. Index and thumb on both. Pull about 1/4” with one hand, hold the tension and pull 1/4” with the other hand. Alternate, go slow. Pull out all 4 tape completely. I think the pause after each 1/4” while holding the stretched tape firmly prevents the tape from over stretching to become too thin and break.

- Don’t apply heat, I would guess that makes tape softer and break easier.

Have tried other methods and failed in the past. Pulling too fast (tape will snap) or use a tweezer to twist/roll (sharp edges will cut tape) Anyway, just use index/thumb on both hands and alternately pull slowly

I did do 2 iPhone 8 battery change this way. One removed all tape without breaking. Another broken all 4 tape after about 1/3 pulled so likely some factory assembly differeces.

Howard -

I second this, this method works well in most cases. Removing the haptics helps to keep the angle low and pulling the tape as straight as possible

Hein Blöd -

Howards method for removing the adhesive works like a charm. The only addition I made was to slightly warm the back of the iphone on a rice pack (used for sore neck muscles—haha). Going back and forth between hands is really crucial. While on hand gives a gentle pull, the other holds the phone from moving. Slow back and forth. Thanks.

Lynn Thomas -

Schritt 20

Entferne die drei Schrauben, welche die Halterung neben der Taptic Engine befestigen:
Eine 1,3 mm Y000 Schraube
Eine 2,7 mm Kreuzschlitzschraube
Eine 2,9 mm Kreuzschlitzschraube

My phone had Phillips screws in all three places, so I did not need the Y000 screwdriver bit.

Daryl Maunder - 25/01/20

I don’t see the point in steps 18-27 if we’re only changing the battery. I pulled out the sticky tape with taptic and all this other jazz still intact. Am I missing something? Reconnecting that taptic connection cost me 5 years off my life, needlessly.

William Mitchell - 11/05/20

Hey William!

We instruct people to remove the Taptic Engine in order to minimize the chance that the battery adhesive will tear when you try to pull it out. The steep angle you have to pull the adhesive with the Taptic Engine installed dramatically increases the chance that the adhesive will break under the battery.

Arthur Shi - 12/05/20

since the sticky tape will usually tear anyway and it is no big deal, I agree stop at this point and take the battery out. Too many things can go wrong removing more screws and connecting/disconnecting all the connectors. Go to video instructions at this point. Wish I did.

Bob McCall - 20/11/20

My tape tore away and now my home button does not work, which from what I see is to do with the tapic engine. It seems to be more dangerous to do that than to use heat and pry the battery out (which I had to do anyway). You should at least put in an warning/option for users.

Gary Berman - 17/03/21

Hi Gary,

The Home button connector is not related to the Taptic Engine and should not be affected by anything close to the battery adhesive. I would suggest carefully disconnecting and reconnecting the screen connectors, and make sure that there is no debris on the contacts. Be sure to disconnect the battery before you do this, or you will risk damaging the screen.

Arthur Shi - 18/03/21

Glad I stopped and watched the video at this point and skipped this step. Totally unnecessary, I used the iopener and heated the back of the phone before removing the battery with a pick and “ifixit card” came out easily. Not my first battery replacement.

Rick Collins -

Kompletter bullshit!! Im Video wird es anders gezeigt und die Schritte 18-27 werden komplett ausgelassen. Ist auch viel besser so, da so das Risiko, dass man die Taptic Engine schrottet, wie es mir jetzt beim ausbauen passiert ist, einfach nicht vorhanden ist. Ich kann auch nicht nachvollziehen, warum man in einer schriftlichen Anleitung zum Akku Wechsel komplett andere Schritte schildert als im Video. An der Stelle hat iFixit deutlich versagt. Ein Haufen Splasher…

Maximilian Ament -

Hallo Maximilian, du hast Recht, im Video wird die kürzere Methode gezeigt. Der Ausbau des Akkus ist für viele Menschen jedoch sehr schwer, wenn die Taptic Engine noch verbaut ist. Deshalb empfiehlt die Anleitung den Ausbau der Taptic Engine.

Fabian Neidhardt -

I can’t get the 2.7mm screw to tighten down the bracket.. not sure what i did wrong? the 2.9 will tighten in either place but the 2.7mm wont tighten anywhere.

cb brooks -

Kann es sein das dieser Schritt falsch ist? Ich habe einen Y000 Schraubendreher aus dem Iphone 7 Set. Der passt aber nicht bei der roten Schraube.

Sebastian Dechent -

The new part I received had two Phillips screws, so when you're doing the reverse, you may need to remove the screws from the new part before putting the old screws in, everything fit together otherwise

Ronald Mitchev -

I really hope you guys not to skip these steps. it is really hard to pull out string with taptic engine. 4 of 3 strings were cutted when I treid to detach batteries with taptic engine. So, I really recommend you to get rid of taptic engine before you start this step. But if you skipped and strings are cutted, there is a way. Use hair dryer 90 secs as maximum hot behind the battries and detach the batteries. It worked to me.

Min Su Kang -

Schritt 21

Entferne die Halterung.

Schritt 22

Schiebe vorsichtig ein Plektrum zwischen Antennenflexkabel und der Oberseite des Lautsprechers ein.
Dieser Teil des Flexkabels ist leicht festgeklebt. Falls nötig, musst du es mit Hilfe eines iOpeners etwas erwärmen, um den Klebstoff aufzuweichen, ein Haartrockner geht auch. Dies erleichtert das sichere Ablösen des Flexkabels.

Schritt 23

Heble das Diversity-Antennenflexkabel mit der Spudgerspitze hoch und löse es vom Logic Board ab.

Schritt 24

Schiebe ein Plektrum unter das Antennenflexkabel, um den Anschluss nach unten zu drücken.
Heble das Antennenflexkabel mit der Spudgerspitze hoch und löse es aus seinem Anschluss, halte dabei den Anschluss mit dem Plektrum nach unten.
Das Kabel wieder anzuschließen kann knifflig sein. Erleichtere dir diese Arbeit und halte das Flexkabel so mit einer Pinzette, dass der Stecker auf den Anschluss passt. Drücke dann vorsichtig den Stecker mit dem flachen Ende des Spudgers herunter, bis er einrastet.

Don’t worry if the socket lifts up a bit as you get it out. You’ll need to lift it up later (Step 25) so don’t push it back into place yet.

Daryl Maunder - 25/01/20

Every instruction online (including your YouTube video) leaves the Taptic Engine in place. This added step did not help with battery replacement, and led to an hour of frustration trying to get the connector back in place.

jgrsf - 01/08/20

I noticed the same thing and wondered if it was necessary. Thanks

Laura Bernal - 16/01/21

Yeah, I broke the connector off of my taptic engine trying to get it to reconnect to the lighting connector plate….freaking nightmare with that and the co-axe wifi connector……..I now have a working phone without haptics

dave -

I agree jgrsf

Bob McCall - 20/11/20

I was glad I had the Taptic Engine removed when I failed to remove the battery adhesives. It leaves more room to work around the battery.

Alexandre Deloffre - 30/03/21

I agree. And when reassembling the wifi antenna, I connected the two plugs first, which worked fine, and only after that stuck the antenna back to its sticky place.

dl7utx - 19/06/22

I was following this for replacing the loud speaker. I found that during reconnecting the antenna flex, I slightly rocked the taptic connector and it came lose. I was frustrated because my pre-close up test had everything working, then I shut it down, made sure everything was connected and put it all together (including a bang-on job on the display adhesive!!) and wham - no taptic responses.

Just finishing reseating it, fought with the antenna flex, then ensured the taptic connector was seated properly underneath. All good now.

Bill Shannon -

i cant get the small screw to tighten to hold the bracket in place. it just spins. the 2.7mm screw that is supposed to go into the lower left bottom. the 2.9mm screw that goes in lower right bottom will also snug down on lower left. I somehow messed up the hole I guess. can i use an extra 2.9mm instead of 2.7 mm ? if i can find one ? thank you

cb brooks -

Schritt 25

Entferne die Wi-Fi Diversity Antenne.

Schritt 26

Entferne die beiden Schrauben, mit denen die Taptic Engine befestigt ist:
Eine 2,1 mm Kreuzschlitzschraube
Eine 2,1 mm Abstandsschraube
Abstandsschrauben lassen sich am Besten mit einem Abstandsschrauben-Schraubendreher oder -Bit herausdrehen.
Zur Not geht es auch mit einem kleinen Flachschraubendreher - sei aber sehr vorsichtig und rutsche nicht ab, damit keine umliegenden Bauteile beschädigt werden.

Tiene que ser una broma que en el kit no te venga el destornillador plano para abrir el tornillo separador. Me habeis dejado a mitad

Charlie - 20/11/19

Why is this screwdriver bit not included in the fix kit?

It’s more important to get this unusual piece than a common Phillips head.

Daryl Maunder - 25/01/20

When reinstalling the standoff that connects to the Taptic Engine, I found that the pointy tip of the spudger fits really well into the little hole at the top of the standoff, and helps with getting it into place and screwing it down if you don’t have a screwdriver bit for the standoff. Hope this is helpful!

Daniel Timothy Case - 11/02/20

Be sure to look through all the packaging if you bought the iFixit replacement battery - the Standoff Screwdriver bit was in the package with the battery and screen adhesive (the box labeled “Repair Part”) rather than in with the tools (the box labeled “Repair Tools”).

Owen Edwards - 13/09/20

Thanks! This really saved the day for me.

Javier Sanz -

I just used a sharp knife for the orange one

jackjaggermanjanson - 21/05/21

I broke (twice) the ribbon cable on the tapic engine while trying to reinstall the taptic engine. I ended up taking the loudspeaker out which gave my finger a bit more room to press down and connect the cable to the phone. It was a royal PIA.

johnoconna -

Such a nice kit, great instructions, and then not include the standoff bit…what a miss…

Martijn Smits -

I used a 2.5mm flat screwdriver for the standoff (orange) screw.

Habel -

During reassembly, I inserted the stand-off screw by holding it with the provided tweezers and pushing it into place with the pointed spudger. While still pushing down with the pointed spudger to keep it from falling over, I turned the stand-off screw using the tweezers until it was firmly seated enough to let go of the spuder without the screw falling over. Then I was able to switch over to my 2.4mm flathead screwdriver and tighten it down. Otherwise the screw was jumping all over the place, magnetically attracted to the other components.

Disappointing that the stand-off screw bit was not provided with the kit. I expect better from iFixit.

Matt Brown -

It appears that some aspects of the iPhone SE 2022 (3rd gen SE) began to appear in later versions of the 2020 model. I have an SE 2020 (A2275) that has a grounding clip anchored by the Phillips screw on LH side of the Taptic engine. This clip was not present in the original SE 2020 and thus, doesn’t appear in the images for this step. If you want to get a good look at the clip’s location and orientation follow these links to the corresponding steps in the iFixit guide for the 3rd gen model and Apple's own repair guide.

SE 2022 (3rd gen) Lighting Connector Replacement -- Step 27

Apple iPhone Repair Manual for SE 2022 (3rd gen) -- See bottom of page 49

Robert Miller -

I agree with the previous comments. What I suggest is to do not remove the taptic engine. It's very frustrating to put back the connector, you have a very little space. If you don't remove it, you still have the space to work with the battery.

Tamas Balogh -

Schritt 27

Benutze die Spudgerspitze, um das Antennenkabel vom Anschluss unter ihm wegzuheben.

Just a heads up, I found a small bit of adhesive tape between the antenna cable socket and the connector below.

Nic Giannandrea - 24/07/19

Yep, I did find it too. Thanks

Stefano Restuccia - 20/11/19

Hola,

Se me ha roto ese conector pequeño de la antena y no encuentro donde puedo comprar un repuesto. ¿Alguna idea?

Gracias

Eduardo Moral - 25/01/20

I also found adhesive between the antenna cable socket and the connector below. I was not able to separate the two (mediocre middle-aged vision and lack of leverage to create the separation), and therefore was not able to fully disconnect the haptic engine. Instead, I gently wriggled the haptic engine out and, leaving it connected, rotated it 180 degrees and out of the way toward the bottom right corner of the phone. I am hoping that I have not damaged the thin ribbon cable. On the up side, for the first time ever I was able to remove the adhesive strips from under the battery (they didn’t break).

John Weise - 21/07/20

I just want to follow up to say that I did not damage the thin ribbon cable connecting the Taptic Engine. I did forget to reconnect it, though. Once I got that straight, it worked fine.

John Weise - 06/08/20

I found that the Antenna cable socket is best to remain attached to the taptic engine cable has i find that it is very easy to brake.

I have in the past also broking the Taptic engine cable when trying to fit it to its sockets. the Taptic engine cable is very easy to brake so would advise that great care is taking when both fitting and removing.

Jake Hearle - 13/03/21

Yep, broke my cable…hoping i can order a replacement taptic engine,,,,phone works without it, but no vibrator or haptics

dave -

Schritt 28

Heble mit der Spudgerspitze das Flexkabel zur Taptic Engine hoch und löse es ab.

I found that this cable was glued down with similar adhesive to the screen. It pulled away as I removed the taptic engine from the phone (next step).

Daryl Maunder - 25/01/20

My taptic engine had two screws on the lh side. still worked the same.

Chris Rainone - 01/11/20

Be really careful here in the reassembly. I managed to rip the cable here, and now best case I won’t have any haptic feedback. :(

Nick Cox -

I’m sorry to hear that! If you’d like to get that fixed sometime, we do sell a replacement part!

Arthur Shi -

On re-assembly, the taptic engine might not work. Before panicking, ensure that the taptic engine connector didn’t get dislodged when fighting to get the antenna flex reconnected.

Bill Shannon -

on my A1905 iphone 8 - This is not correct!

There is an extra leg coming off the taptic engine’s flex cable with a micro-coax antenna connector going underneath the speaker!

You can’t take the engine off yet!!

Jason Minahan -

I have the same issue and confirm the coax connector under the speaker …. can you buy this Taptic Engine anywhere? The one with the extra leg ?

James -

A hint for reassembly: carefully crease the ribbon cable upwards along the edge of the connector so the stiff ribbon doesn’t touch the engine, pushing the upper connector too far away from the engine to line up with the lower connector. Once the cable isn’t interfering, you don’t have to worry as much about breaking it or having it get in the way. It’s still tricky to get the connectors lined up. I had luck by using one set of tweezers to hold and stabilize the short sides of the upper connector (silver rectangle). I used another set of tweezers (spudger would also work) in my other hand to finesse the connector alignment and push the connectors together. Look carefully at the first photo in this step: the connector is almost exactly centered below the taptic engine screw.

jeffreyknicholson - 28/11/21

my phone is doing a squeeking sound everytime i press the home button and sometimes if i press long on the screen.

something is off with the taptic engine i think.

any idea how to fix it?

Rita H -

Any suggestion on why the 2.7 mm screw no longer holds down the bracket. 2.9 mm screw works in either hole .but the 2.7 mm no longer secures the bracket, can I swap it out with another 2.9 mm screw?. And where do I find one. Will it work if it’s missing that screw? Space. I have an old iPhone SE maybe I can find 2.9 screw in that . Thanks

cb brooks -

Re-assembling the Taptic Engine connector is difficult. After struggling unsuccessfully for 45 minutes I ended up bending up the metal tab on the right side of the phone with tweezers, then with the Taptic Engine tipped on end (not positioned in phone) I could get the cables connected. With the tab on the phone bent upward I was able to slide the mounting tab on the left side of the Taptic Engine under the tab on the left side of the phone case and then bend it back down. This needs to be done carefully to avoid damaging the cable on the Taptic Engine.

Mark Dige -

Be careful -- there are two cable connectors stacked on top of each other here, and you want to attach the taptic engine to the bottom one. When reattaching the taptic engine connector, make sure that the antenna connector is pulled back -- it is designed to sit right above the connector for the taptic engine, and just by memory it rests back in the same spot. Without reviewing the previous step in reverse, it would be easy to attempt to connect to the top socket, potentially causing damage.

brendonart -

There’s two cables here that are almost impossible to separate. I put some effort on the haptic cable and it immediately sheared off. I have no idea how you’re supposed to properly separate them

Nicholas Head -

The reassembly is very difficult. The connector needs to be closer to the taptic engine than what the stiff ribbon allows. I had to bend the ribbon a bit with tweezers to narrow the gap between the connector and the taptic engine so that the connector would meet with the slot... after I spent half an hour trying to coax it.

Scott Green -

Tamas Balogh - 22/03/23

Be careful the taptic engine cable is less then paper thin and tears with less resistance then a peice of paper, use extreme caution!!!!!
i ripped mine and after taking it out and testing the strength of the cable it took less force to tare then tearing a sheet of paper.

there is plenty of room for this cable to be three times as thick with no interference, this is just anti repair design.

penguin2fish4rain - 11/04/23

Schritt 29

Entferne die Taptic Engine.

Where there is the 2,1mm philips srew holding the taptic engine (left), there is a tiny piece of metal under the srewhead. Note its orientation, take it out and dont't lose it taking out the taptic engine, then reinstall it when reassembling. When reassembling, the said fixing hole of the taptic engine is not on top, but has to be pushed under a little metal piece, it won't even fit on top. Then reinstall the tiny metal piece and put the screw in.

dl7utx -

I damaged the graphite film underneath the battery while removing stubborn adhesive. Can I buy replacement graphite film? Should I remove it altogether since some sections ripped? What purpose does this serve? Thank you for any information.

Anne Marie Hammock -

Hi Anne,

The graphite film helps dissipate heat during wireless charging and to transfer heat out of the battery. It doesn't need to be in one complete piece in order to work—if the film can lay flat, I'd leave it in place.

Arthur Shi -

Schritt 30

Der iPhone Akku ist mit vier elastischen Klebestreifen befestigt, zwei oben und zwei unten.
Jeder Klebestreifen verfügt über eine schwarze Zuglasche am Ende, die leicht auf der Vorderseite des Akkus angeklebt ist.

Be careful prying around the side button connector when trying to remove the top tabs. There is very little room to maneuverer

Tom Millard - 10/03/21

£ Tapes broke on me so I applied iISOPROPYL ALCOHOL using an Eye Dropper waited 30 seconds tHen heated up some oil in the bag rice for 2 minutes on 700W and the applied the unopened packet to the back of the iPhone for 90 seconds.

Themn I used an out of date credit card with the raised numbers facing down to easily release the battery.

David Howard

David Howard -

Great tip! Worked perfectly and easy. Thanks.

Stephen Smith -

It should read heated up some boil in the bag rice

David Howard

David Howard -

Very difficult. be very careful on the limited space end that you don't puncture the battery!

Carl Schultz -

I really hope you guys not to skip steps for detaching taptick engine because it is really hard to pull out string with taptic engine. 4 of 3 strings were cutted when I treid to detach batteries with taptic engine. So, I really recommend you to get rid of taptic engine before you start this step. But if you skipped and strings are cutted, there is a way. Use hair dryer 90 secs as maximum hot behind the battries and detach the batteries. It worked to me.

Min Su Kang -

Schritt 31

Löse die erste Akkuklebelasche von der unteren rechten Kante des Akkus.
Benutze deine Fingernägel oder eine stumpfe Pinzette. Vermeide es, scharfes Werkzeug zu benutzen, um den Akku nicht zu beschädigen.

Vor Schritt 30 umbedingt die Rückseite des iPhone erwärmen. Ich habe das iPhone 10 Minuten auf eine heiße Wärmflasche gelegt.

Moritz Hartges - 18/04/21

Strongly suggest you remove the display. Also the picture shows the "perfect world" it is far ore difficult to remove and get to those white adhesive pull strips. be very careful!!!

Carl Schultz -

Schritt 32

Halte die Streifen immer glatt und faltenlos, denn verknitterte Streifen werden sich verkleben und reißen, statt sich sauber herausziehen zu lassen.
Drücke den Akku nicht nach unten, während du die Streifen herausziehst. Wenn du auf den Akku drückst, entstehen Druckstellen , die sich verhaken können und den Kleber beschädigen.
Ziehe langsam die Akkuklebelasche weg vom Akku, in Richtung Unterkante des iPhones.
Ziehe gleichmäßig und halte konstanten Zug auf den Streifen, bis er zwischen Akku und rückseitigem Gehäuse herausrutscht. Das gelingt am Besten, wenn du den Streifen in einem möglichst flachen Winkel ziehst, ohne dass er sich an anderen Bauteilen des iPhones verfängt.
Der Streifen wird sich auf ein Vielfaches seiner ursprünglichen Länge dehnen. Ziehe immer weiter und fasse, falls nötig den Streifen am Akku nach.
Wenn der Akkuklebestreifen bei diesem Verfahren reißen sollte, dann hole das restliche Stück des Streifens mit den Fingern oder einer stumpfen Pinzette heraus und mache mit dem Ziehen weiter.
Wenn einer der Streifen unter dem Akku abreißt und nicht geholt werden kann, dann entferne zuerst die restlichen Streifen und fahre wie im Folgenden beschrieben fort.

This was the most frustrating step of the process. I found that if you pull steadily and slowly while continuing to grip the adhesive as close to the battery as you can there is a much smaller chance of breaking the adhesive strip and losing it under the battery.

Benjamin Boldt - 22/01/21

I did not have replacement adhesive tabs for my battery so I needed to re-use the old ones. First, I pulled back the black tabs from the top and sides of the battery (Steps 28 and 29). Then I laid the phone on a hot water bottle (Wärmeflasche for our German friends) while I very, very, very slowly prised the battery out of the body using the flat end of a spudger, starting at the corner closest to the volume buttons. The battery did deform somewhat during the process, but it was fully discharged and I had no combustion problems. After a few minutes of gentle pressure on the battery corner, it started to release from the adhesive. Full removal took about 5 minutes and the adhesive tabs were not damaged in any way and happily re-adhered to the new battery.

I did all this after skipping over steps 18 to 27 and put the new battery in place after connecting it first to the circuit board to ensure correct alignment.

jnbruin -

All 4 strips tore after just removing a small portion… even though I took great care to pull slowly and at a small angle. Could not imagine how anyone could have managed this with my phone. Had to heat and pry out.

griffin.weber -

I damaged the graphite film underneath the battery while removing it from stubborn adhesive using a card from the side. Can I buy replacement graphite film? Should I remove it altogether since it's ripped or will that cause problems for heat dissipation? Thank you for any information.

Anne Marie Hammock -

Schritt 33

Wiederhole die vorigen Schritte, um die restlichen drei Streifen zu entfernen.
Achte darauf, den Akku festzuhalten, wenn du den letzten Streifen herauslöst, denn er könnte den Akku unerwarteterweise herausschleudern.
Wenn du es geschafft hast, alle Klebestreifen erfolgreich zu entfernen, kannst du den nächsten Schritt überspringen.
Falls einer der Klebestreifen unter dem Akku gerissen ist und nicht herausgeholt werden konnte, dann mache mit dem nächsten Schritt weiter.

If you have a thin flexible plastic shim shaped like a letter opener, you can slip it under the battery and take it off the adhesive.

Spencer Chan -

Anne Marie Hammock -

Good luck with the top two…. Virtually impossible to remove. Both of mine broke almost immediately. I tried floss and a strong thread and both broke before they did much good.

so I took a plastic card (an old credit card would work, but you’ll have to cut it thinner or work from the sides. If you got the bottom two out successfully, you should be able to get enough lift to start prying gently with the card.

Good chance you’ll scuff up the super-thin carbon film over the charging coil if you’re too aggressive. And DO NOT use alcohol to soften the glue because it will melt right through that thin carbon layer and make a mess. Best bet is to go gradually…. Put the plastic card under the battery, pull up a bit to add tension, and then stick a pencil or popsicle or something under the card to keep keep the tension and give it 5 minutes or so for the tape to loosen. Then pull up on the card to add new tension, move the stick up, and wait again. It’ll take 20-30 minutes. Repeat until free and don’t rush.

Bigh -

Anne, I had little rips in that layer, and it doesn’t seem to have affected anything.

Bigh -

Schritt 34

Falls einer der Klebestreifen unter dem Akku gerissen ist und der Akku am Rückgehäuse festgeklebt bleibt, dann entferne ihn folgendermaßen: Tröpfle etwas Isopropylalkohol (mindestens 90%ig) unter den Akku in der Nähe der betreffenden Streifen. Lasse ihn mindestens eine Minute lang einwirken und hebe dann den Akku vorsichtig hoch.
Heble den Akku nicht mit Gewalt heraus. Tröpfle, falls nötig, noch etwas Alkohol ein, um den Kleber weiter zu schwächen. Verforme den Akku niemals und stich ihn nicht an.
Falls du Hebelwerkzeug benutzt, um den Akku aus den iPhone zu heben, sei extrem vorsichtig, damit du die Flachbandkabel oder die kabellose Ladespule direkt unter dem Akku nicht beschädigst.
Wenn der Akku doch noch am Rückgehäuse festgeklebt bleibt, dann bereite einen iOpener vor oder benutze einen Fön, um das Rückgehäuse direkt hinter dem Akku zu erhitzen. Dadurch wird der Kleber aufgeweicht.
Erhitze das Rückgehäuse bis es etwas zu heiß ist, um es noch bequem anfassen zu können. Überhitze das iPhone nicht, denn sonst könntest du versehentlich den Akku entzünden.
Du kannst auch einen starken Faden (wie zum Beispiel Zahnseide oder eine Gitarrensaite) unter dem Akku durchziehen.
Ziehe den Faden über die ganze Länge des Akkus wie eine Säge hin und her, um den Kleber zu lösen. Verforme oder beschädige auf keinen Fall den Akku.
Schütze deine Finger und trage Handschuhe oder Schlinge die Enden um ein Werkzeug (z.B. Schraubendrehergriffe, so wie im Bild gezeigt).

In my case the floss caught on the sharp edge of the wireless charging coil pulling up the edge of the coil, butane cutting off the floss. I think the coil had been damaged by some previous repair, but be careful. After you pull past the first two adhesive strips, peek under the battery to make sure the floss is sliding over not under the coil. The coil doesn't look like a coil – more like a paper thin pad.

Joel - 30/01/21

Soaking the floss in rubbing alcohol helped also. It took some doing, but eventually came through without issue.

Trever Knie -

the wireless coil accidently got a little tear just to the right middle area. I put the new battery in and everything seems fine. I wonder if I should change the coil? anyone have any suggestions of what symptoms to look for if there were to be an issue ? thank you

cb brooks -

I ended up heating the back of the phone for 30-60 seconds (don't do anymore than that) and used the opening tool as a fulcrum to lift the battery. As long as you're careful it should work!

Vladimir Stanev -

Anne Marie Hammock -

We used my heating pad set on low, placed the case on it, about two minutes and using the opener tool, lifted the battery out. This was the only bump/snag we had, the remaining steps went well and I have my phone back.

Pete P -

All the adhesive strips broke, so I used the long plastic tool for brute force extraction, twisting the old battery in the process. Most of the old strips in the back remained, so reused them for the new battery.

Boaz Ben-Zvi -

Schritt 35

Entferne den Akku vom iPhone.
Sollte dein Ersatzakku in einer Plastikhülle geliefert werden, entferne zuerst die Plastikhülle vom Akku, indem du die Hülle vom Flachbandkabel abziehst, und setze erst dann den Akku ein.
Wenn noch Reste vom Alkohol im im iPhone verblieben sind, dann wische sie sorgfältig weg oder lasse sie gut austrocknen, bevor du den neuen Akku einbaust.
Wenn dein neuer Akku nicht mit Klebestreifen ausgestattet ist, dann benutze diese Anleitung, um die Akku-Klebestreifen zu ersetzen.
Führe einen erzwungenen Neustart nach dem Zusammenbau durch. Das kann einigen Problemen vorbeugen und macht die Fehlersuche einfacher.
Schließe den Akku probeweise am Logic Board an, bevor du ihn wieder festklebst. Damit stellst du sicher, dass er richtig in seiner Vertiefung drin sitzt.
Klebe den Akku fest, trenne ihn wieder ab und fahre mit dem Zusammenbau fort.

Having received a replacement battery from CE Store, the phone is now OK with top battery performance. The one received earlier was just a scrap, not chargeable. Now, I’m quite satisfied.

Miklos Barton - 14/11/20

I made the mistake of powering the phone on once the new battery was connected to make sure it was working, before I put the screen back on. Now my home button doesn’t work, even after two hard resets. Anyone know how I can get it working again? Note I didn’t disconnect the screen or taptic engine or anything else. I just left the screen hinged 90°, the only connector I touched was the battery connector.

John M - 02/12/20

Same issue. Home button is dead. No cables were damaged. Everything else works. Any ideas?

Aaron Soderholm - 04/12/20

I had the same issue with the Home button, I turned on Virtual Home Button, which makes the phone usable. Shutting the power off off and restarting the phone bring you to the login screen. go to Settings, Accessibility, Touch, Assistive Touch.

Gary Berman - 17/03/21

I recommend making sure the battery connector is lined up with the socket before setting it down on in the compartment, mine was very close, but a little too high and it made getting it connected a little more difficult than it needed to be.

Benjamin Boldt - 22/01/21

I agree Benjamin. Eager to ask anyone starting this, since it added 90 minutes onto my project, be careful, though I can testify that the metal flex connector bends. In other words, I bent it about 3 times so the proper alignment could be attained - sort of a zig zag. Amidst that phase I had practically given up, almost started removing the new battery, but alas I got the phone to work again. We'll see if its function can last.

Steph B -

Performing a force restart at this point makes no sense. Shouldn’t it be performed after the display is installed?

Richard Dempsey -

Abschluss

Um dein Gerät wieder zusammenbauen, folge den Schritten in umgekehrter Reihenfolge. Vergiss nicht, vorher das Display wieder festzukleben.

Entsorge deinen Elektromüll fachgerecht.

Die Reparatur verlief nicht wie geplant? In unserem Antwortenforum findest du Hilfe bei der Fehlersuche.

Tinte & Feder

Jeff Suovanen

Mitglied seit: 06/08/13

407156 Reputation

49 Kommentare

I still did it in 30 minutes….but I am glad I stop repairing phones around the Iphone 6s ! Now it takes serious effors just to replace the battery !

Wayne Demers - 21/12/19

One note on this repair: When reinstalling the standoff that connects to the Taptic Engine, I found that the pointy tip of the spudger fits really well into the little hole at the top of the standoff, and helps with getting it into place and screwing it down if you don’t have a screwdriver bit for the standoff. Hope this is helpful!

Daniel Timothy Case - 11/02/20

Are steps 18 to 27 really required if you’re just replacing the battery?

Daniel Frenberg - 24/07/20

Hi Daniel!

The pull-stretch adhesive holding the battery has a tendency to tear when they are pulled at a steep angle. When they tear, removing the battery becomes much more difficult. We strongly recommend removing the Taptic Engine in order to give the adhesive the best chance of coming out in one piece.

Arthur Shi - 25/07/20

I tried doing it the ‘easy’ way without those steps. I wound up breaking the top adhesive tabs and it made it a lot harder to remove the battery and took a lot of extra time. If I had to do it again, I would do all the steps. Otherwise, things went very well. Very good instructions.

Mark Myers - 18/02/21

I have done both the “long way” and the “short way.” If I start with the top tabs and they break, I will skip step 18 - 27 since I will have to use the floss / alcohol / pry method anyway.

Trever Knie -

Great guide and great quality of all your tools and replacement parts.

Georgi Ivanov - 03/10/20

The battery replacement took 50 minutes. The taptic engine took a bit more extra 10 minutes time.

Miklos Barton - 16/10/20

Crushing experiment! The phone wakes up, all installed apps appear on the screen, works well, joins to Wi-Fi, but can’t charge the battery. 1% still remains after three hours, connected to its genuine charger. Well, I’m down and very sad.

Miklos Barton - 17/10/20

I bought the kit from ifixit. I’m power electronics technician and fixed 10 to 20 iPhones in my life without problems. But this time I made the same experience as Miklos Barton. Battery only charges 1%. I checked some YouTube videos, and how to fix this Problem, and they showed that in most cases the MOSFET on top of the battery was ripped of. In my case the MOSFET is in place.

Stefan Einbecker - 01/11/20

The video show battery removal without taking out the taptic engine first. So, what is the recommend method?

steinmb - 09/11/20

Removing the Taptic Engine first allows you to pull the battery adhesive at a shallower angle, which decreases the likelihood of broken strips.

Arthur Shi - 10/11/20

I got one question will it detect the battery last time I did a battery replacement The battery won’t detect the iPhone so I’m kinda skeptic about it

868 Unknxwn._ - 12/01/21

Gut Bezeichnet, Schritt führ Schritt

heike-haberla - 18/01/21

I just completed the battery replacement. I didn’t remove the Taptic Engine, which worked out fine. I used a sock full of microwaved rice for the iOpener and heat gun replacement.

Total time = around 1 hour.

Mistakes = 2

Mistake 1 = I broke the 2 clips at the top of the iPhone. They are incredibly fragile.

Mistake 2 = I pierced the old battery with the tweezers. It melted one of the tweezer arms a little, while the battery puffed up, sparked, and smoked a bit.

Mirza Molberg - 22/03/21

to complicated for this 74 year old

JohnAHill - 29/03/21

Having same problem as Miklos and Stefan…so is it the battery from iFixIt or is it a mosfet?

J C - 04/04/21

Same problem. Anyone from iFixit have a solution?

Chris Simmons - 24/05/21

Ich habe die Anleitung 1:1 befolgt und es hat gut funktioniert. Zum erwärmen habe ich eine heiße Wärmflasche verwendet. Umbedingt das Repairkit mit Ersatzdichtung kaufen. Super Service von iFix it: Anleitung, Tools, Ersatzteile. DANKE

Moritz Hartges - 18/04/21

Hallo, ich habe den Akku erfolgreich nach Anleitung gewechselt. Ebenfalls habe ich den Akku danach wie beschrieben auf 100% geladen und weitere 2 Stunden am Ladekabel belassen. Das iPhone ist zurückgesetzt und hat keine installierten Apps außer den Stockapps von Apple. Der Akku entlädt sich ohne Aktivitäten über Nacht auf ca. 70%, danach geht es weiter runter ohne das iPhone 8 zu benutzen. Kann es sein das die Kalibrierung aus irgendeinem Grund nicht funktioniert hat? Der Akku hat bei 100% Leistung (Batterie Management in den Einstellung) leider nur die gleiche Wirksamkeit wie der alte Akku. Wo liegt hier der Fehler?

Florian Kerl - 16/05/21

Hi! Are there Issues after replacing a battery, on an iPhone 8 Plus with iOS 14.6?

Thank you! ?

Matteo -

i don’t like to do it anymore..

iphone 6 was easy, but with IPX etc. it’s just not easy anymore.

also, it’s not as good a battery as from apple directly.

Dennis Britsch -

I learned the hard way that the iPhone 8 has a wireless charging coil. When the battery adhesive pull strips snapped, I used a plastic card to remove the adhesive and it scraped a big chunk out of the charging coil. You can still get the phone working again by removing the logic board, ripping the coil connector off of the coil, and putting a piece of electrical tape over any exposed copper. Next time I’ll use floss to remove the battery adhesive!

Richard Tener -

Hi Richard, same thing happened to me. I tried the best I cloud to remove the battery I also used floss, but nope the wireless charging pad was stuck and came glued with the adhesive strips completely. I soften the adhesive with no luck. I think I will put this phone away. I thought the repair process was easier but I made a huge mistake by only watching the iFixit video. :(

Guillaume Menard -

Tolle Anleitung!! Vielen Dank für dein Engagement!!

Ralf Puetz -

Gute Anleitung, war hilfreich. Das Video ist ebenfalls sehr gut. Es entfällt das Entfernen der Taptic Engine.

Auch die Ersatzbatterie wurde von fixit.de sehr schnell geliefert. Ich bin begeistert.

Roderich Vogelmann -

Despite lots of gentle heat and following the instructions really carefully (I’ve replaced batteries and screens a few times in the past with no issues) I now have a dark blob on the screen where the suction cup was used to remove it, and a tiny bright spot in the bottom right corner. I’m guessing that one or more layers has separated before the adhesive gave way - probably the polarizer as the blob gets brighter when looked at at an angle. It did take me about 15-20 minutes of work to get the screen off as it just didn’t want to separate despite heat and rocking as per the guide - I think it just required too much pull from the suction cup before I could get the slightest gap to get the pick in.

The phone still works fully and the rest of the repair went off without a hitch. The iFixit replacement battery seems fine. I’m going to leave it charging and hope for a miracle to happen overnight.

Russ Pitcher -

Sweet jesus. that sucked. just pay the extra $20 to have it done. best 20 bucks you'll ever spend

damiennews -

Took about an hour. Getting the case open was the hardest part, but don't try this repair unless you are comfortable with handling 2mm screws and are patient as !&&*! Fired the repaired iPhone up and it worked perfectly! Whew!

Steven Wiley -

Great guide, I am definitely going to try this soon. I was wondering if it would it be possible to replace the iPhone 8 battery with the higher capacity one that's made for the 8 Plus? Looks like the two batteries share the same physical size and connector but am not 100% sure.

Pepijn -

All went well in the end. The worst part was connecting back the taptic engine socket. That was really frustrating, but finally it worked after many attempts. The second worst part was the adhesive - what an incredibly poor design of iPhones to finish with sticky glue! Other than that the process was smooth without issues.

Rostislav Troyak -

This worked well, everything went smoothly. I would recommend going ahead and removing the display (that part really wasn't bad to do and worth it to get it out of the way). and the haptic engine (you need the space to pull the adhesive strips). I had a couple strips break partway, IPA dripped behind the battery worked really well and this shouldn't damage the electronics, it takes a few minutes to work.

The phone powered up no problem after reassembly. Everything worked except the rear camera and flashlight. I tried several tricks I found online, but the only way to get it back was to do a DFU restore of the phone. So don't panic if your camera is black, it can be a software issue.

pbrazis -

Total time for me was 55 minutes but some of that was rewatching the video. Easy to complete and my phone is working like new.

Couple of tips

1 - if you have a small flat refrigerator magnet or magnetic business card, lay it on your work surface, magnet side up, to hold all your tiny fasteners.

2 - no iOpener or heat gun, I used my heating pad it worked perfectly and no worries about getting your device too hot.

Thanks iFixit, definitely as easy as advertised and I couldn’t be happier with the outcome.

Pete P -

There is no discussion of replacing the waterproof seal and how that may work without separating the display. How can the seal be placed on the proper surface all around whilst the display is still connected?

Yishai Sered -

Yishai, you place the seal in place before you reconnect the screen. This was not documented well in the tutorial. The seal replacement kit actually has three layers of plastic protective material: after thoroughly cleaning the old goo from both the phone base and the screen (which took me an hour just for that), you peel off the back plastic and align it on the phone body… I actually think it’s best to align it from the left side instead of the bottom… less chance for alignment errors that way. Then you can pull the small plastic tab to remove the front plastic… a thin 3rd piece of plastic (actually two pieces) remain and cover the goo while you attach the screen. When everything is attached, I placed a plastic card (a credit card would work) over the base while I lowered the screen and engaged the top two pins. Once those are engaged you can pull out the card and snap the rest of the screen in place. Then attach the final two bottom screws.

Bigh -

Gotta agree with others… it’s just not worth it any more to do this yourself. It took me three hours (one hour just to clean the old screen sealant off… anyone who says they did the repair in 30 minutes didn’t clean and replace this seal properly, which sacrifices the water resistance). The screws just keep getting tinier and crazier and you have to use magnifying lenses and strong light just to see them.

too many ways this can all go wrong now. I saved maybe $35 by doing it myself rather than having Apple do it. Not even close to being worth the headache and the risk of breaking something. This is the the last phone battery I’ll ever replace, and I’ve been replacing them since the original iPhone… for myself, my family and my friends. Time to hang up the ol’ spudge tool.

Bigh -

Holy Smokes, that sucked!! Instructions were fine. 1.3mm screws were impossible to get in! All tape broke but the dental floss and isopropyl did the trick. Screwed up taking the Taptic flex cable off, then tore it so no haptic now. Not doing that again!

Did I say that sucked?

Karl Prigge -

Thanks for all the hard work and great comments. After reading all this I am not going to do this myself. I also changed my older phones batteries with out a problem, But this cell phone "operation" looks like an invitation to a possible frustrated conundrum or a semi-successful job.

Ted Alvarez -

Braced myself for a long operation and, yep, so it was. The kit is excellent although I'm torn between getting an isclack screen prying tool and never ever trying a job like this again. TL;DR: all went well, the screws are tiny and you need to make sure you have somewhere to store them where, and I cannot stress this enough, you're not going to accidentally nudge and randomly rearrange them. This was the most mindful bit of repair I've ever done, with careful, half-speed movements, and absolutely no swearing during the reassembly of the Taptic Engine and ancillary cabling. Using the kit tweezers to remove the adhesive from both halves of the phone was time-consuming, necessary and actually quite satisfying. Definitely needed bright light and calming music, however. Also, wish I'd read the comment about using the spudger tip for the Taptic Engine standoff. That was a bit fighty. Finally, used Payette Forward's info on DFU reset - so far, so good. Great guide, thanks.

Martin Ashby -

I don't think this should be medium difficulty level. Changing the battery of my Air it was also medium and rather easy. I ended up bringing my phone to a repair shop to finish up.

stefantornau -

I tore the wireless charging coil can I just put it back together with it torn?

Daniel -

For parts, I use an egg carton and place all screws and parts for each step into one of the egg holders, moving clockwise as I go.

robin -

Worked great for me. Only downside is I feel stuck with a perfectly functioning iPhone 8 for another couple years. lol. Thank you iFixit for the vids and my fellow community members for the useful comments.

I'mafixitaswell -

I am one of the least tech-related guy on the planet. I also am very bad at making stuff I bought from ikea.

But I bought the kit to try fixing, because the benefit outweighed the risk, that is breaking my old iphone8 (I would be sad but it wouldn't affect me too much).

Turns out, I finished the repair in 80 minutes. (Big portion of that time heating up the battery glue)

And. to me, this is f ing unbelievable

the THING WORKS.

HOW!

I have been and still am just

BEAMING-

never been this happy over the whole covid years.

my dumb hands successfully repaired something.

that feels nice. and its also nice to have a working spare phone.

won -

Danke f. die Rep. Tipps!

Sind sehr cool und haben den 0815 fehlern vorgebeugt :D

Patrik H -

Grats to everyone who made it. The guide is exceptionally good and I disassembled everything without breaking a single part.

But... I did some repairs on my older Macbooks (2010-2015) and my iPhone 8 started to have around 30minute battery time so I decided to try to replace the battery using an ifixit kit. Unfortunately, when reassembling I couldn't put the antennae cable socket back in and broke it. I kind of think it's my eyes (definitely very poor since when I was younger) but I can't seem to plug in the small cables back into their sockets.

Definitely much harder than I thought and I think I'll give up here :(

blake2 -

I had Apple (Genius Bar) themselves do it, charging me USD 57. They also asked me to upgrade to latest iOS before they do the replacement. From what I have read here, I would certainly be unsuccessful in doing it myself. I consider the cost, well spent to avoid stress and headache. The iPhone 8 has also served for 5+ years so I feel getting it done by Apple themselves will definitely extend its usable life abit more. And could also still be good to pass it over when I finally justify an upgrade.

Jan dela Cruz - 22/02/23

I damaged the wireless charging coil. Is it dangerous to fit the new battery in such a case? Can I just tape the exposed copper or I should disconnect the coil before connecting the new battery?

vabogie -

I suggest adding the steps to replace the Taptic engine and Wi-Fi diversity antenna prior to adhering the battery to help ensure proper placement. The instructions for other iPhone battery replacement includes this. I find that it really does help position the battery.

Kevin Tobias -