iPhone 8 Logic Board austauschen

Geschrieben von: Arthur Shi

Kommentare: 122

Schwierigkeitsgrad

Mittel

Schritte

Zeitaufwand

45 Minuten - 2 Stunden

Einleitung

Folge dieser Anleitung, um das Logic Board im iPhone 8 zu ersetzen.

Hinweis: Das Logic Board und der Touch ID Fingerabdrucksensor von jedem iPhone sind ab Werk gekoppelt, sodass der Austausch des Logic Boards die Touch ID deaktiviert, es sei denn du baust auch einen Ersatz Home Button ein, der korrekt mit deinem neuen Logic Board gekoppelt wurde.

Werkzeuge

Ersatzteile

Schritt 1

Bevor du anfängst, sollte der Akku deines iPhones auf weniger als 25% entladen sein. Ein geladener Lithium-Ionen Akku kann Feuer fangen und/oder explodieren, wenn er beschädigt wird.
Schalte dein iPhone aus, bevor du daran arbeitest.
Drehe die beiden 3,5 mm Pentalobe Schrauben an der unteren Kante heraus.
Wenn du das iPhone öffnest, werden die Dichtungen beschädigt. Halte deshalb Ersatzdichtungen bereit, bevor du weitermachst, oder achte beim Wiederzusammenbau penibel darauf, dass keine Flüssigkeit eindringen kann, wenn du keine neuen Dichtungen verwenden möchtest.

just how long are those screws- i turn and turn and turn and the lift off is soooo slight, seemingly insignificant…

An. Jahnke - 27/12/20

I would recommend, from the very beginning, dumping all tools out of the kit (if you got it) and using that white paper tool box as a tray to organize the screws and braces in. It’s nice to work over because it catches screws well and makes it easy to see them if you drop any.

Johnny Emrica -

That’s a great idea thank you

Mohamed Dekkiche -

Screw to the left of the charging port will not come out. Screw on the right came out no problem. Any ideas?

Bill Maher -

Schritt 2

Es ist leichter das iPhone zu öffnen, wenn du das untere Ende erwärmst, so werden die Verklebungen aufgeweicht.
Du kannst das untere Ende des iPhones mit einem Haartrockner oder einem iOpener etwa 90 Sekunden lang erwärmen, dann sollte der Kleber weich genug sein.

No hair dryer so GENTLY heated over stove burner

John Toth - 13/10/20

Hello,

What temperature is suitable for removing the front display ? I bought i-Fixit ProTech which is not include the heating "roller" . Thanks for help

Jiří Sítko - 28/01/21

Ich habe eine heiße Wärmflasche verwendet. Das hat gut funktioniert :-)

Moritz Hartges - 18/04/21

I laid my phone face-down on my 3D printer’s heated bed, and set the temperature to 60 C. After a few minutes, it was ready to loosen.

Nate B -

If you don’t have an “iOpener” or heat gun, try using an electric heating pad. I have a small $11 pad I got at CVS for my knee. On medium heat it worked fine for removal and with the “pennies” for setting the new seal.

Pete P -

I used a heated tea kettle and a tea towel, it worked!

Adam Yavner -

I put on the furnace vent for 10 minutes to get it warm to the touch but not hot.

terrelldoc -

I attached it to the after burner of my rocket ship and that worked.

Matt Brown -

I'm holding mine just above an erupting volcano but I'm still waiting to see if it has worked. How long does it need?

Paul Aron -

Schritt 3

Die nächsten beiden Schritte zeigen die Benutzung der Anti-Clamp. Wenn du sie nicht verwenden willst, überspringe die nächsten zwei Schritte und folge einer anderen Methode.
Genaue Anweisungen, wie die Anti-Clamp benutzt wird, findest du hier.
Drücke den blauen Griff zum Scharnier hin, um den Öffnungsmodus einzustellen.
Bringe die Saugheber direkt über dem Home Button am Display an, einen auf der Vorderseite, den anderen auf der Rückseite.
Drücke die Saugheber auf den Oberflächen fest.
Wenn die Saugheber nicht gut auf den Flächen haften, dann klebe Paketband darüber.

Schritt 4

Drücke den blauen Griff vom Scharnier weg in die Stellung für den Öffnungsmodus.
Drehe den Griff im Uhrzeigersinn, bis du merkst, dass sich die Saugheber dehnen.
Achte darauf, dass sich die Saugheber weiterhin gegenüber stehen. Wenn sie sich nicht mehr gegenüber stehen, dann löse die Saugheber ein wenig ab und schiebe sie in die richtige Position.
Warte eine Minute, damit sich der Kleber allmählich ablösen kann und sich das Display unten löst.
Wenn es nicht gelingt, mit der Anti-Clamp einen ausreichend großen Spalt zu erzeugen, dann erwärme die Stelle nochmals und drehe den Griff eine halbe Umdrehung im Uhrzeigersinn weiter.
Drehe den Griff jeweils nicht mehr als eine halbe Umdrehung weiter und warte jedes Mal eine Minute lang. Gib der Anti-Clamp Zeit, ihre Arbeit zu erledigen.
Überspringe die nächsten zwei Schritte .

Schritt 5

Setze einen Saugnapf auf die untere Hälfte der Vorderseite , direkt über den Home Button.
Passe dabei auf, dass der Saugnapf den Home Button nicht bedeckt, sonst kann der nicht mehr dicht abschließen.
Wenn dein Display stark gesplittert ist, dann haftet der Saugheber vielleicht besser, wenn du die Scheibe mit durchsichtigem Paketband abdeckst. Du kannst anstelle des Saughebers auch sehr kräftiges Klebeband benutzen. Wenn das alles nicht hilft, dann klebe den Saugheber mit Sekundenkleber an der zerbrochenen Scheibe fest.

Even with using high heat from a blow dryer, I had to put the suction cup over the home button or the bottom edge wouldn’t lift at all. That waterproof adhesive is incredibly strong.

Aaron Soderholm - 04/12/20

As others have said, this part really stinks, but it’ll work if you keep trying. Agree with multiple rounds of hair dryer on high (did about 60-90s each time), and with having to out the suction cup over the home button. You don’t need a big gap to pry it open - it’ll be slight …

Johnny Emrica -

Patience is the key here. Expletives and patience. Like previous comments say, putting the suction cup over the home button (I used packing tape to maintain the seal) will allow you to apply force to the proper location to separate the screen. Good luck!

J Rawlinson -

Get a suction cup pliers. It’ll make this part fun

Bradley Steiner -

iSclack EVO opened the iPhone easily even without heating with no fear of accidentally over-opening it like with a simple suction cup.

Matti Haveri -

Schritt 6

Ziehe gleichmäßig und fest am Saugnapf. Es sollte sich ein kleiner Spalt zwischen Front Panel und Rückgehäuse bilden.
Setze ein Plektrum in den Spalt ein.
Die wasserdichte Verklebung am Display ist sehr stark. Um den Spalt zu öffnen, musst du recht viel Kraft aufbringen. Wenn du Schwierigkeiten hast, solltest du nochmals Wärme anwenden und dann die Scheibe vorsichtig hoch und runter ruckeln, um so die Klebeverbindung zu schwächen, bis du genug Platz hast, um dein Werkzeug einzuführen.

The screen on my phone was so broken, a suction cup did not work, so I softened the adhesive with a blow dryer and used a Jimmy to carefully pry open the phone from the bottom just enough to slip a pick in.

charguy - 31/05/18

Just completed a smashed screen replacement, this is probably the most time consuming part. Used packing tape to cover the screen to help create a suction surface (had to replace it a couple times because it pulls away after a purple good pulls ) Used consistent heat for about 5 minutes, then stuck a pick in the tiniest opening… and pry pry pry!

Brian Gill - 29/09/19

I failed at this step. No amount of heating, pulling, and rocking opened up enough of a gap to slip in even a knife let alone the blue plastic tool. That's with a phone that has an undamaged screen - just trying to replace the battery. Apple won this round :(

Michael Sherman - 31/05/21

Be really careful here. I placed a sucker to the front and rear to help lever off the screen. However, the whole thing came away much easier than I anticipated and I ripped the front part completely away from the rear, tearing all three connector cables. New iPhone required.

Chris Wood -

Note that the opening pick they show here does not appear to come with the kit, which is a bummer! The plunger, the mini blue crowbar thing, these are too thick. I ended up using a really thin guitar pick.

Johnny Emrica -

Following careful methods can mostly preserve the seal and reusable. Won’t be as water tight but probably still pretty good.

Bottom edge is pull up with suction + separating tool. Use small precision scissor to cut any tape that gets overly stretched upon initial opening.

- For the 2 long edges, use an exacto knife to separate the seal from the screen. This keeps the tape on the chassis. Go slow along the long sides. Becareful to avoid scratching the paint on underside of the screen’s edge.

- Top corners have a thick sealed tape. Best to just use separating tool to twist it open.

In summary, top and bottom edge use separating tool. Side long edges can use exacto knife to gradually gently separate the seal from underside of the screen’s edge.

Howard -

4 picks and an exacto knife, plus 45 minutes later, I finally got it to open! Thanks tor the tip!

Cat -

Intact screen, check. Tool kit, check. Hair dryer hot enough to make the phone too hot to touch, check. Following all instructions, check. Screen still in place and refusing to come off, check.

I heated, reheated, pulled and pulled. I simply could not get it off. Worked at it for an hour and a half, and I’m not a small guy. Yes it is hard to hold, but could get a grip. Just could not get it to budge. Off to the iPhone repair shop tomorrow. Anybody want to buy a repair kit and replacement battery?

Jim Meyers -

After struggling for 30m, I looked up some alternate methods and found this helpful:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=25zAK5mG...

- I used a utility knife and pried up right under the home button

- the angle matters! I was trying to go too far down before going in. The top surface of the phone is rather thin, so you go in after barely getting under the chassis lip

- tilt utility knife left to right once you’ve got it under to work it in

- leave the utility knife in, and now add that pick

Jared Wilk -

Pro-tip: don't be an idiot like me. Instead, remove the screen protector you have on the phone before applying the suction cups. Derp.

hunter.geofizz -

I struggled with a hair dryer at first and a singular suction cup. However, I tried putting packing tape on the spot where I put the suction job (even though my screen isn't cracked) and I was able to do it first try with ease. Definitely recommend packing tape.

Alessio Toniolo -

Suction cup pliers. Dead easy

Bradley Steiner -

Schritt 7

Schiebe das Plektrum entlang der linken Kante von der unteren Ecke an nach oben in Richtung der Tasten für die Lautstärkeregelung und des Stummschalters. Trenne so die Klebeverbindung des Displays auf.
Halte vor der oberen linken Ecke an.
Versuche nicht, die Oberkante des Displays vom Rückgehäuse wegzuhebeln, denn hier halten Plastikclips die Teile zusammen. Die Clips könnten abbrechen.

My Plektrum worked ok, but the edges broke off a bit towards the end

griffin.weber -

Schritt 8

Setze das Plektrum an der rechten unteren Ecke ein. Schiebe es um die Ecke herum, dann entlang der rechten Kante nach oben. Trenne dadurch die Verklebung.
Setze das Plektrum nicht zu tief ein, du könntest auf dieser Seite diverse Displaykabel beschädigen. Schiebe es nur wenige Millimeter tief ein, ungefähr in der Breite des Displayrahmens.

No pick in the kit you sent me.

Ted Cooper -

Schritt 9

Hebe vorsichtig den Saugnapf an und mit ihm den unteren Teil des Displays.
Hebe das Display maximal 15° an. Du könntest sonst die Flachbandkabel des Displays überdehnen und beschädigen.
Ziehe an der kleinen Lasche am Saugnapf, um ihn vom Front Panel zu lösen.

Schritt 10

Schiebe das Plektrum unter das Display um die obere linke Ecke und die Oberkante entlang, um die letzte Klebeverbindung zu trennen.

I did end up using just a smidge of IFIXIT adhesive remover along the edge before opening and that seemed to really help

Karen Flowers -

I have been using the pointed tweezers to pull the adhesive strands apart and out as the display comes off.

Adam Yavner -

Schritt 11

Schiebe die Displayeinheit leicht nach unten, weg von der Oberkante, um die Clips zu lösen, mit denen sie am Rückgehäuse gehalten wird.

Schritt 12

Öffne das iPhone, indem du das Display von der linken Seite her umklappst, so wie wenn du ein Buch öffnest.
Versuche noch nicht, das Display ganz zu trennen. Verschiedene empfindliche Flachbandkabel verbinden es noch mit dem Logic Board.
Lehne das Display an einen geeigneten Gegenstand, um es gut zu stützen, während du weiter am iPhone arbeitest.

Nach RECHTS klappen - nicht nach links!

Manfred Wachtel - 12/05/20

Als ich das Flachbandkabel auf der rechten Seite sah, hab ich mich auch gefragt, ob die das mit nach Links klappen ernst meinen, und das „Buch“ lieber auf japanische Art nach rechts aufgeklappt. Das sollte dringend in der Anleitung korrigiert werden!

Sebastian Plickert - 23/04/21

“Up from the left” means lift up the left side.

Which is the same as folding to the right.

“Like the back cover of a book” explains it even more clearly.

Maybe it gets lost in translation?

Nick Shtangey -

Fold to THE RIGHT - not to the left!

Jim Glenys -

When I saw the ribbon cable on the right side, I also wondered if they were serious about folding it to the left, and the "book" would rather be opened to the right in the Japanese way.This should be corrected urgently in the manual!

Jim Glenys -

Hi Jim, the display opens from the left side, toward the right side. It should look like the back cover of a book. Hope this helps. Good luck with the repair!

Adam O'Camb -

Schritt 13

Entferne vier Kreuzschlitzschrauben, mit denen die Halterung des unteren Displaykabels am Logic Board befestigt sind. Sie haben folgende Längen:
Zwei 1,3 mm Schrauben.
Zwei 2,8 mm Schrauben.
Halte deine Schrauben während der ganzen Reparatur wohlgeordnet. Jede Schraube muss beim Zusammenbau wieder an ihren alten Ort zurück. Eine falsche Schraube am falschen Ort kann dauerhafte Schäden verursachen.
Entferne die Halterung.

Not Y000 this time haha

Easy Repair - 19/03/18

can same length screws mixed up?

Brook布魯克 - 21/11/19

It is not ideal, but possible for these screws.

Arthur Shi - 21/11/19

using the repair kit i purchased with my screen replacement, i am currently having issues removing these screws with the PH000. please help

Mark Ordaz - 25/04/20

I was too, thankfully I had another set that contained the PH00 bit, that worked great for me.

William Mitchell - 04/05/20

Ok. My screw is stuck. How do I remove it? Philips head is stripped.

Kristina Graham - 12/09/20

Solved it myself. Firm pressure did the trick.

Kristina Graham - 12/09/20

Takes a little pressure with the Philips head

John Toth - 13/10/20

Upon this step, I noticed I had no bracket or screws. I had my screen replaced previously and I’m disappointed to find out the repairperson made no effort to replace these parts. I’ll start trusting myself more to do my own repairs.

O D -

took me awhile to figure out I needed to use PHOO bit for the 2 -1.3 screws

Karen Flowers -

It is important to keep careful track of the screws' position. Have a tidy workplace -- a few times when I tried to re-attach the very tiny screws with the tweezer, they slipped and flew away and I almost lost them.

Matti Haveri -

can you strip the screws / how can you tell if its strip or not

antonio -

Schritt 14

Heble den Akkuanschluss mit der Spudgerspitze aus seinem Sockel auf dem Logic Board.
Biege das Akku Anschlusskabel etwas weg vom Logic Board, um zu verhindern, dass es sich versehentlich wieder mit dem Akku verbindet und das iPhone während der Reparatur unter Spannung setzt.

Make sure you pry the battery connector off from the right hand side as shown in the picture. Theres a delicate component on the logicboard near the battery connector called a Mosfet which is linked to the battery charging software. If you knock it off accidently you’ll loose battery charging and the phone will boot loop and youll need to have it re-soldered back on.

Gareth - 23/08/20

I can confirm this as I learned my lesson by unknowingly prying the mosfet off. The phone will not charge now and is useless. I really wish they would add a note about this on Step 12 as a warning.

Jeff -

So this is it. You don’t have to go any further removing the screen. You can replace the battery right from this point.

John M - 02/12/20

I wish I saw this comment 2 hours ago

Kenneth Moore - 12/05/21

If I have to repeat this, I'd also consider removing replacing the battery at this point. The loose display must be then carefully fixed so the connectors don't break. And then it is not possible to re-attach the waterproof seal.

The waterproof seal was included in the kit, but there were no instructions for it so I now skipped that. I later found YouTube video which seems to describe it (starting at 7:40):

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RcgGRhaX...

Matti Haveri -

This is where I broke my phone, a phone that was working quite well, paid for in full. Just because I had a cracked screen. Be super careful when connecting the cables. I was in a hurry and not paying attention, used too much force when re-connecting and broke those teeny little pins that could not be repaired. A tech tried for an hour to no avail. cautionary tale. Good luck

Karen Flowers -

The display ribbon is a certain length and allows for some give, but behind it is hidden the Home button/TouchID ribbon, which sits against what amounts to a razor blade. This ribbon is much more taut than the display one, and therefore you have far less freedom of movement than you think you do. This is absolutely an intentional trap to discourage replacing your own battery. Quite frankly, it’s despicable.

Anyway, so beware of that, because although I was very careful and did not even swing the screen very far (not more than 90°), the Home button ribbon tore and now needs to be serviced. Home button is disabled now.

Apple should be ashamed of themselves for this. Please do look at the legislation effort that people are doing to try to get this kind of sabotage illegal, as well as all sorts of other gimmicks they pull. For a company that makes phenomenal products, they’re controlling like an abusive spouse.

Dan Knight

daniel -

That happened to me and I could not figure out how it got broken. It's the home button and fingerprint reader.

But I'm not bothering to get it fixed and I'm not replacing the entire screen. I went into system prefs/accessibility and activated the on-screen home button. Oh, well.

robin -

I cannot get the new battery reconnected to the connection port. Any tips/tricks? New and old battery connections appear similar. It wasn't difficult to disconnect to old battery.

Robert Ast -

Some reports here seem to indicate that the battery must be the very last connector to re-connect because otherwise there might be malfunction in some display components?

It wasn't difficult to disconnect to old battery. But the most difficult part for me was to get the new battery reconnected to the connection port. I tried many times to carefully position and press it down with my fingertip or the flat end of the spudger but it did not hold its position. Maybe I pressed too weak because I was afraid breaking the connector and the mosfet above (?) it. But finally to my surprise it connected (at that point I temporarily booted the iPhone with the loose display to verify that the battery was connected). Whew, it succeeded!

Matti Haveri -

Schritt 15

Heble den unteren Displaystecker mit der Spudgerspitze aus seinem Sockel.
Um Druckverbinder wie diesen wieder anzuschließen, musst du erst auf einer Seite herunterdrücken, dann auf der anderen. Drücke nicht in der Mitte. Wenn der Verbinder auch nur ein bisschen daneben sitzt, kann er sich verbiegen und irreparabel beschädigt werden.

I broke the lower display connector. Is it possible to replace that part separately or do I need to buy a full screen replacement?

Ross Mckellar -

Schritt 16

Löse den Verbinder am zweiten unteren Displaykabel mit der Spudgerspitze.

Schritt 17

Entferne die drei 1,3 mm Kreuzschlitzschrauben, mit denen die Halterung über dem Verbinder der Front Panel Sensoreinheit befestigt ist.
Entferne die Halterung.

If you are replacing the adhesive liner, the remaining release liner strips will interfere with the two outer screws. I had to cut a working section out of the liner at each location and move it aside with the spudger.

Thomas Tritt - 30/03/19

This part is throwing me for a loop. Having difficulty finding the read head for these screws. Is it the same size as the two small 1.3mm screws in step 12?

Jared Hensley - 01/12/19

ended up getting it with the PH000, I must of just been rushing it.

Jared Hensley - 01/12/19

My bracket looks different and none of the screw heads I have fits.

Ray Rushing - 28/09/20

Mine too? Any help?

George Waller - 29/05/21

These screws did not stick to the magnetic screwdriver. Extremely difficult to get them back in place - but with some patience i succeeded :)

Niklas Brammer - 19/01/21

Schritt 18

Löse den Verbinder der Front Panel Sensoreinheit mit der Spudgerspitze.

Do you have a link for the flex cord shown in the pictures so I can purchase it? Having a hard time locating that exact assembly

Regal Carveiro -

Schritt 19

Entferne die Displayeinheit.
Beim Wiederzusammenbau wäre das jetzt der Moment, in dem du die die Klebestreifen um die Kanten des Displays erneuern kannst, wenn du willst.

Hi ifixit, if you find my method dangerous, please remove it.

After Step 17, I skipped Step 18 to Step 28.

At Step 29, I lifted up the four adhesive black pull-tabs to expose the white adhesive side. Next, I use hot air gun and blow on the back cover of the iphone for about a minute (maybe a hairdryer will work too) .

Warning: Don't overheat the iPhone, or you may accidentally ignite the battery.

I think the temperature was around 60 DegC.

Extreme Caution: Do Not overheat. I use my hand to gauge the hotness. Careful not to burn yourself or the board.

I was able to pull out all the white adhesive tapes easily as the adhesive soften.

DO NOT TRY this method if you are a novice or inexperience! I am not responsible if you hurt yourself or damage your iphone!

John - 20/05/20

Hey John! I’m glad the repair worked out for you!

From our research, applying heat does soften the adhesive strips, but it also causes them to lose structural integrity and break more easily. That’s why we normally suggest using heat after the strips are already broken. Removing the Taptic Engine definitely takes a few extra steps, but we feel that it gives fixers the best chance of pulling out the adhesive strips intact.

Arthur Shi - 20/05/20

I agree with John, skip 18 through 27. These are to make it easier to remove the battery adhesive. I replaced the batteries on two IPhone 8s. The first one I did all that stuff and the adhesive still broken and I had to carefully pry the battery out anyway. When I reassembled the phone the Home button no longer worked. Looking it up, this is apparently fairly common due to all the fragile wires involved in these steps. The second I skipped these steps and when I reassembled it everything worked fine. Not one of the eight (both phones) adhesive strips came out properly. I fully drained the batteries before doing the repairs. By the way, I use the virtual home button on the one phone, it’s a little annoying, but the phone is still usable if you’re not ready to shell out for a new phone.

Gary Berman - 06/04/21

I also skipped removing the Taptic Engine. I could only half-way pull the lower battery tapes and completely the upper tapes after carefully prying them loose with the tweezer. I then used a hair-dryer for a minute to warm the battery and the other side of the phone (I used my other hand to make sure I did not apply too much heat. Make sure you do not blow the tiny loose screws away with the hair dryer!) and then slowly lifted the upper battery somewhat with the Opening pics tool, then re-heated the lower remaining tapes and quite easily lifted the battery out.

I had bought two-sided tape to reconnect the battery but it had the tapes pre-installed (I wonder if it is necessary to tape the battery at all?).

Matti Haveri -

I also skipped these steps. I won’t say it was entirely successful - two of the four adhesive strips broke and could not be grabbed with tweezers. But I had gotten most of the adhesive out already and the battery was quite loose, so I used a warmer under the phone, then gently slid a flat plastic blade under one end of the battery and slowly worked it up the phone. (Dental floss would have been safer-don’t do what I did, kids!)

Matt D - 30/05/21

Likely can skip step 18-28 and all the risks. Battery tape is relatively removable by the following method

- use a tweezer to pull up a corner of each tape. Then use fingers to peel back all the black tab on top of battery

- use 2 hands. Index and thumb on both. Pull about 1/4” with one hand, hold the tension and pull 1/4” with the other hand. Alternate, go slow. Pull out all 4 tape completely. I think the pause after each 1/4” while holding the stretched tape firmly prevents the tape from over stretching to become too thin and break.

- Don’t apply heat, I would guess that makes tape softer and break easier.

Have tried other methods and failed in the past. Pulling too fast (tape will snap) or use a tweezer to twist/roll (sharp edges will cut tape) Anyway, just use index/thumb on both hands and alternately pull slowly

I did do 2 iPhone 8 battery change this way. One removed all tape without breaking. Another broken all 4 tape after about 1/3 pulled so likely some factory assembly differeces.

Howard -

I second this, this method works well in most cases. Removing the haptics helps to keep the angle low and pulling the tape as straight as possible

Hein Blöd -

Howards method for removing the adhesive works like a charm. The only addition I made was to slightly warm the back of the iphone on a rice pack (used for sore neck muscles—haha). Going back and forth between hands is really crucial. While on hand gives a gentle pull, the other holds the phone from moving. Slow back and forth. Thanks.

Lynn Thomas -

Schritt 20

Setze ein SIM-Karten-Auswurfwerkzeug, ein entsprechendes Bit oder eine gerade gebogene Büroklammer in das kleine Loch im SIM Karteneinschub.
Drücke darauf, um den Einschub auszuwerfen.
Das erfordert unter Umständen ziemlich viel Kraft. Achte auf jeden Fall darauf, dass das Auswurfwerkzeug gut ausgerichtet ist, damit der Auswurfmechanismus im Inneren nicht beschädigt wird.

Prolly goes without saying, but should you power off phone before this step?

jklue - 19/08/21

If you are merely swapping the SIM card, you don’t need to power off your iPhone. If you plan to do any repairs that involve opening the phone, you should definitely power off your iPhone.

Arthur Shi -

Schritt 21

Entferne den gesamten SIM-Karteneinschub aus dem iPhone.
Die SIM Karte lässt sich leicht aus dem Einschub herausholen.
Beim Einsetzen der SIM Karte musst du darauf achten, dass sie richtig im Einschub ausgerichtet ist.
Eine dünne Gummidichtung um den SIM-Einschub herum schützt das iPhone vor dem Eindringen von Flüssigkeit und Staub. Falls diese Dichtung beschädigt ist oder fehlt, musst du die Dichtung oder den gesamten SIM Einschub ersetzen, um die inneren Komponenten deines iPhones zu schützen.

Schritt 22

Benutze das flache Ende eines Spudgers, um den Stecker des Kamerakabels zu trennen, indem du ihn gerade aus seinem Anschluss nach oben hebelst.

When replacing, used iFixit tweezers to gently hold/bend the cable, and used my finger to press the connector back in place. This was the best way I could get the connector lined up and seated properly.

Habel -

Schritt 23

Entferne die beiden Schrauben, mit denen die Halterung der Rückkamera befestigt ist:
Eine 3 mm Distanzschraube
Eine 3,1 mm Kreuzschlitzschraube
Distanzschrauben werden am besten mit einem speziellen Schraubendreher für Abstandsschrauben oder Bit entfernt.
Zur Not geht auch eine kleiner Flachschraubendreher. Sei aber besonders vorsichtig, dass du nicht abrutschst und umliegende Komponenten beschädigst.

The screw and standoff are the other way round in this step. The photo shows the small screw removed and the standoff securing the logicboard is circled incorrectly. Also you may find that the standoff screw is not magnetic, making it a little tricky to replace!

Michael Millington - 21/10/18

Hi Michael,

You are correct; thanks for catching that! The original image was correct, and for some reason the image was updated, and no longer correct. I have reverted it back to the original image.

Arthur Shi - 22/10/18

wrong Screws in Picture

mmiller - 05/03/20

Be careful when reassembling. These screws came demagnetized for me in the process, and they’re really hard to put in if that happens.

Nick Cox -

These screws are not magnetized! If you are trying to put them back, use some tweezers to align them, and while still using the tweezers, grab your standoff driver and push down, then you can screw it in with ease.

Lua Tech -

Thanks for the tip.

Habel -

I used a 1.5mm flat screwdriver to do the one with the standoff bit.

Habel - 11/12/22

Schritt 24

Entferne die Halterung der Rückkamera.

Schritt 25

Benutze die Spitze eines Spudgers, um den Stecker des Blitzes gerade aus seinem Anschluss nach oben zu hebeln und somit zu trennen.

The small connector is not actually for the flash, the flash and mic module are just below that and connect to the same cable as the power button.

Bonrad C - 12/02/20

Schritt 26

Entferne die beiden Schrauben, mit denen die obere Kabelhalterung befestigt ist:
Eine 2,9 mm Kreuzschlitzschraube
Eine 1,3 mm Kreuzschlitzschraube

Logically - one wouldn’t need to take out all these things to take out something at the bottom of the phone - but in order to get good access to it, you must remove the logic board - which is long and all the way up at the top connected to the antenna. Follow the steps - it works.

Chris Rainone - 01/11/20

Schritt 27

Entferne die obere Kabelhalterung.

Schritt 28

Benutze das flache Ende eines Spudgers, um den oberen Kabelstecker aus seinem Anschluss zu hebeln.

Schritt 29

Entferne die drei 1,3 mm Kreuzschlitzschrauben, die die obere linke Antennenkomponente befestigen.

1,2mm ! not 1,3mm ! thx

Boni Zei - 08/04/20

Schritt 30

Entferne die 1,4 mm Kreuzschlitzschraube, die die Antennenkomponente an der Oberkante des Gehäuses befestigt.

Be careful not to strip this screw...I did and I'm going to try to proceed without taking off the antenna component.

Jacob Steineke -

Update: You can still go on with the replacement if you do not take off the antenna component

Jacob Steineke -

Schritt 31

Entferne die Antennenkomponente.

Schritt 32

Entferne die beiden Kreuzschlitzschrauben, mit denen die Erdungsklammer an der oberen linken Kante des Logic Boards befestigt ist:
Eine 1,5 mm Kreuzschlitzschraube
Eine 2,6 mm Kreuzschlitzschraube

Schritt 33

Entferne die Erdungsklammer.

what happen if don't put this part?

albert saens - 11/03/19

Hi Albert,

It’s hard to tell. Most phone functions will probably work, but you may start getting quirky problems.

Arthur Shi - 11/03/19

If it comes out it must go back in *no spare parts *

Josh Brito - 21/12/19

Schritt 34

Entferne die drei Schrauben, die das Motherboard befestigen:
Eine 1,8 mm Kreuzschlitzschraube
Eine 2,5 mm Distanzschraube
Eine 2,2 mm Distanzschraube

The One 1.8 mm Phillips screw was buried under some gasket material. It took some twezzer work to get that material off.

I.T. Service Desk - 19/02/20

this is probably the most difficult part because the ‘top 2.5 mm on my version was under a piece of ribbon cable that had to be pulled back. Also notice - this picture is inverted. So the locations are reversed (obviously for clarity)

Chris Rainone - 01/11/20

The 1.8mm was indeed buried.

fotoband - 19/12/20

Buried 1.8mm Phillips easily located under the gasket material by zooming in on the photo to see position relative to connectors. Material is fibrous, so be patient.

Ben Sandness -

I’ve been searching on internet about the black stickers on those parts in the phone and I found nothing about them, what are they? Electrical Tapes? Does it make any differences if we remove them? If yes is, there anything else we can use to replace them? We’re they are for any specific purposes? Thanks in advance if anyone can help me understand

EverWill - 21/01/22

Used a 2.5 mm flat screwdriver for both of the standoff screws. There was definitely black adhesive covering the 1.8mm Phillips. As Ben Sandness said, take your time, keep working at it.

Habel -

Schritt 35

Biege die Erdungshalterung des Logic Boards vorsichtig mit einer Pinzette weg.

Schritt 36

Schiebe den Auswurfkolben der SIM Karte mit der Spudgerspitze aus dem Weg des Logic Boards.

Schritt 37

Benutze die Spudgerspitze, um das Kabel der Wi-Fi Diversity Antenne hochzuhebeln und zu trennen.

Schritt 38

Heble den Stecker des Lightning Kabels mit der Spudgerspitze hoch und trenne ihn ab.

Schritt 39

Benutze die Spudgerspitze, um den Stecker der kabellosen Ladespule hochzuhebeln und zu trennen.

Schritt 40

Benutze das flache Ende eines Spudgers, um das Logic Board vorsichtig an der Akkuseite hochzuheben.
Achte darauf, nicht an irgendwelchen Kabeln zu ziehen. Falls du Widerstand spürst, kontrolliere, ob alle Kabel, Stecker und Komponenten von der Platine gelöst sind.

Schritt 41

Fasse das Logic Board an den Kanten beim Akkustecker, hebe es hoch und entferne es.
Achte darauf, dass sich das Logic Board nicht an irgendwelchen Kabeln verfängt.

Abschluss

Um dein Gerät wieder zusammenzubauen, folge dieser Anleitung in umgekehrter Reihenfolge.

Entsorge deinen Elektromüll fachgerecht.

Hat die Reparatur nicht ganz geklappt? In unserem Forum findest du Hilfe bei der Fehlersuche.

Tinte & Feder

Arthur Shi

Mitglied seit: 03/01/18

218620 Reputation

20 Kommentare

Hello evryone. Do I need a new touch ID that fits the motherboard or can I use my old touch ID?

The motherboards that are for sale, sell with touch ID and without. That`s why I am asking.

Sebastian Bojek - 11/05/19

Hi Sebastian,

Yes, the Touch ID is paired with the motherboard. In order to keep Touch ID functionality, you have to use the fingerprint sensor that comes with the replacement.

Arthur Shi - 13/05/19

can i use this process two switch a logic board from a working i phone to one that is icloud locked?

Kenneth Zapata - 17/02/20

That’s why I’m here

Kol Rukaj - 10/04/20

Hi Kenneth,

The phone’s “identity” is based off of the logic board, so switching a logic board will remove the iCloud lock—if the replacement logic board is not locked. Note that the Touch ID hardware is paired each logic board.

Arthur Shi - 13/04/20

It may work but the card to be replaced needs to be unlocked with iCloud.

Yuri Henrique - 12/08/20

i have an iphone 8 plus icloud locked ,is it possible that if i change the motherboard with a new one so moblie will again start and work as before .please brief me about this…

Malik Mohammad Hussain - 18/06/20

Hi Malik,

Arthur Shi - 18/06/20

o novo também precisa ser desbloqueado para que tudo funcione

Yuri Henrique - 12/08/20

where can i buy the motherboard and Touch ID?

Santiago Cortes - 28/09/20

on aliexpress

Tristan Haugh - 11/01/21

ty, it helped me a lot, i couldn’t do it without the tutorial, my wireless charging coil somehow was bootlooping my phone, ripped it off, and it works

khejtary - 06/04/21

I'm having trouble with the standoff screw on the logic board. It's not going into the screw that it's supposed. Am I supposed to unscrew the screw underneath it first?

Anthony Kee - 08/05/21

Can somebody please send me a link for the repairkit needed to do this :)

Emanuel Djordje -

I would recommend the pro tech toolkit, handles all my needs for repairing.

Lua Tech -

will cameras both work when motherboard is replaced? is anything else synced with the motherboard that must transfer over

Nick King -

The cameras will still work as they’re not paired with the logic board. The only thing paired is the Touch ID sensor.

Arthur Shi -

Will a logic board out of a iphone 8 work in a 8 plus?

Shawn Noe -

Will a iPhone 8 Plus logic board fit in my old iPhone 7 Plus

to make it have wireless charging ( ik I would have to add the coil but will it work)

Jarrett Gage -

Hi everybody

I would likie to clear one doubt please help me i bought iphone 8 the recently update to ios 15.5 the it's showing problem cellular i connect to the itune and restored but the same problem indicating what should i do please explain if ay oe know this solution.

Ruben

NAVANIDHAN PADMARUBAN -