iPhone SE 2020 LCD und Touchscreen tauschen

Geschrieben von: Adam O'Camb
  • Kommentare: 124
iPhone SE 2020 LCD und Touchscreen tauschen

Schwierigkeitsgrad

Mittel

Schritte

41

Zeitaufwand

45 Minuten - 2 Stunden

Einleitung

Die Reparatur ist einfacher, wenn du statt dessen unser[Produkt|IF435-000|Fix Kit|new_window=true] benutzt. Wenn du das hast, kannst du dieser kürzeren Anleitung folgen und gleich den kompletten Bildschirm deines iPhones ersetzen.

Für fortgeschrittene Bastler hilft diese Anleitung dabei, nur den LCD-Bildschirm des iPhone SE 2020 mit Touchscreen (auch bekannt als das blanke "Front Panel") zu ersetzen. Das setzt aber voraus, dass du mehrere Komponenten von deinem ursprünglichen Bildschirm auf den neuen überträgst, bevor du ihn einbaust - einschließlich der Frontkamera, des Ohrhörer-Lautsprechers, des LCD-Abschirmblechs und der Home Button Einheit.

Bei allen Bildschirmreparaturen ist es wichtig, den ursprünglichen Home/Touch-ID-Sensor vorsichtig auf das neue Display zu übertragen, damit er funktioniert. Der elektronische Home-Button ist von Apple mit dem ursprünglichen Logikboard gekoppelt, so dass er durch einen Austausch unbrauchbar wird.

  1. kH33mVcxVN2MyNsd

    • Bevor du anfängst, sollte der Akku deines iPhones auf weniger als 25% entladen sein. Ein geladener Lithium-Ionen Akku kann Feuer fangen und/oder explodieren, wenn er beschädigt wird.

    • Schalte dein iPhone aus, bevor du daran arbeitest.

    • Drehe die beiden 3,5 mm Pentalobe Schrauben an der unteren Kante heraus.

    • Wenn du das iPhone öffnest, werden die Dichtungen beschädigt. Halte deshalb Ersatzdichtungen bereit, bevor du weitermachst, oder achte beim Wiederzusammenbau penibel darauf, dass keine Flüssigkeit eindringen kann, wenn du keine neuen Dichtungen verwenden möchtest.

    just how long are those screws- i turn and turn and turn and the lift off is soooo slight, seemingly insignificant…

    An. Jahnke -

    I would recommend, from the very beginning, dumping all tools out of the kit (if you got it) and using that white paper tool box as a tray to organize the screws and braces in. It’s nice to work over because it catches screws well and makes it easy to see them if you drop any.

    Johnny Emrica -

    That’s a great idea thank you

    Mohamed Dekkiche -

    Screw to the left of the charging port will not come out. Screw on the right came out no problem. Any ideas?

    Bill Maher -

  2. VZtFUbiTGlxKvKuS
    VZtFUbiTGlxKvKuS
    nEk1gF4aPAU5BRUh
    jIumJl2vN3XDIiSv

    • Wenn dein Display-Glas zerbrochen ist, dann solltest du weiteren Bruch verhindern und Verletzungen während der Reparatur vermeiden, indem du das Glas mit Klebeband abklebst.

    • Klebe durchsichtiges Klebeband in überlappenden Streifen über das Display des iPhones, bis die ganze Oberseite bedeckt ist.

    • Dieses Verfahren hält Glasscherben fest und sorgt dafür, dass die Struktur erhalten bleibt, wenn du am Display hebelst und es hochhebst.

    • Ziehe eine Schutzbrille auf, um deine Augen vor Glassplittern zu schützen, die bei der Reparatur herausspringen können.

    • Wenn das Glas so zerbrochen ist, dass ein Saugnapf bei den nächsten Schritten zu schwierig anzusetzen ist, dann solltest du versuchen, ein Stück sehr starken Klebebands (etwa Panzer-Tape) zu einem handlichen Griff zusammenzukleben und damit das Display anzuheben.

    In case of broken glass you can make the suction cup much more effective by covering the glass with a broad piece of translucent tape which eliminate air leakage through cracks in the glass.

    lionno1 -

    Il n’est pas nécessaire de mettre beaucoup de scotch.

    Au contraire plus vous mettez de scotch, plus il y aura de défauts et la ventouse ne collera pas.

    Une bande bien positionnée suffit.

    Chloé Bossuette -

    I’ve used hot glue on low setting to remove all types of crystals. The hot glue will release with a little iso alcohol. No damage to glass or plastic faced crystals or screens. Use a narrow piece of wood as a prying handle.

    Emilio Gonzalez -

    I recently had issues with removing the glass with the suction cup. I have done this many times with older generation iPhones but this time the glass seemed sealed on quite solidly. I told myself that the last option would be to use the screwdriver tip. After all my attempts, I transitioned to the option of using the screwdriver tip. Surprisingly, it was the easiest thing ever. I placed the 1mm flathead screwdriver at the interface between the glass and the cover (normal start location) and pried up very gently. Voila, the glass came up and I can’t even notice any dents or scratches. It felt much easier than the suction cup technique. If the suction cup is giving you a hard time consider using that 1mm flathead.

    forhereyesonly -

    This is definetly the best option to open this thing up. I’ve spend 30min with trying to heat it up and remove it using the suction cup. I needed 3sec with the 1mm flat screwdriver and i t was’nt scary at all. No dents nor scratches here too. Thanks for your comment.

    Berggorilla -

    thank you!!!!!

    Adrian Phan -

    Great suggestion to use the screwdriver!! Thanks, it really helped

    obo12759 -

    Duck Tape worked great for me. Thanks for the great instruction!

    Michael -

    Tried several types of tape but finally used this screw driver solution. At first I wasn't pushing hard enough for fear of damaging things but with just a bit of extra force I was able to open it right up. Everything is fine with only a slight scratch on the frame.

    Wesley Shank -

  3. HWFBtehBMjCQcFAc

    • Es ist leichter das iPhone zu öffnen, wenn du das untere Ende erwärmst, so werden die Verklebungen aufgeweicht.

    • Du kannst das untere Ende des iPhones mit einem Haartrockner oder einem iOpener etwa 90 Sekunden lang erwärmen, dann sollte der Kleber weich genug sein.

    No hair dryer so GENTLY heated over stove burner

    John Toth -

    Hello,

    What temperature is suitable for removing the front display ? I bought i-Fixit ProTech which is not include the heating "roller" . Thanks for help

    Jiří Sítko -

    Ich habe eine heiße Wärmflasche verwendet. Das hat gut funktioniert :-)

    Moritz Hartges -

    I laid my phone face-down on my 3D printer’s heated bed, and set the temperature to 60 C. After a few minutes, it was ready to loosen.

    Nate B -

    If you don’t have an “iOpener” or heat gun, try using an electric heating pad. I have a small $11 pad I got at CVS for my knee. On medium heat it worked fine for removal and with the “pennies” for setting the new seal.

    Pete P -

    I used a heated tea kettle and a tea towel, it worked!

    Adam Yavner -

    I put on the furnace vent for 10 minutes to get it warm to the touch but not hot.

    terrelldoc -

    I attached it to the after burner of my rocket ship and that worked.

    Matt Brown -

    I'm holding mine just above an erupting volcano but I'm still waiting to see if it has worked. How long does it need?

    Paul Aron -

  4. uSKuDUqkPXShJGIe
    uSKuDUqkPXShJGIe
    IeAAHaduoE44JpAR
    t5GbMXdtcHZSd6UW

    • Die nächsten beiden Schritte zeigen die Benutzung der Anti-Clamp. Wenn du sie nicht verwenden willst, überspringe die nächsten zwei Schritte und folge einer anderen Methode.

    • Genaue Anweisungen, wie die Anti-Clamp benutzt wird, findest du hier.

    • Drücke den blauen Griff zum Scharnier hin, um den Öffnungsmodus einzustellen.

    • Bringe die Saugheber direkt über dem Home Button am Display an, einen auf der Vorderseite, den anderen auf der Rückseite.

    • Drücke die Saugheber auf den Oberflächen fest.

    • Wenn die Saugheber nicht gut auf den Flächen haften, dann klebe Paketband darüber.

  5. KDAeBh2lnZbXICfQ
    KDAeBh2lnZbXICfQ
    PeluubAbBVTKej6A
    JRgRfsPXUPFQfx1E

    • Drücke den blauen Griff vom Scharnier weg in die Stellung für den Öffnungsmodus.

    • Drehe den Griff im Uhrzeigersinn, bis du merkst, dass sich die Saugheber dehnen.

    • Achte darauf, dass sich die Saugheber weiterhin gegenüber stehen. Wenn sie sich nicht mehr gegenüber stehen, dann löse die Saugheber ein wenig ab und schiebe sie in die richtige Position.

    • Warte eine Minute, damit sich der Kleber allmählich ablösen kann und sich das Display unten löst.

    • Wenn es nicht gelingt, mit der Anti-Clamp einen ausreichend großen Spalt zu erzeugen, dann erwärme die Stelle nochmals und drehe den Griff eine halbe Umdrehung im Uhrzeigersinn weiter.

    • Drehe den Griff jeweils nicht mehr als eine halbe Umdrehung weiter und warte jedes Mal eine Minute lang. Gib der Anti-Clamp Zeit, ihre Arbeit zu erledigen.

    • Überspringe die nächsten zwei Schritte .

  6. VRy3fVrOovwUCabE
    VRy3fVrOovwUCabE
    A5IlSaM3n1xvayKW

    • Setze einen Saugnapf auf die untere Hälfte der Vorderseite , direkt über den Home Button.

    • Passe dabei auf, dass der Saugnapf den Home Button nicht bedeckt, sonst kann der nicht mehr dicht abschließen.

    • Wenn dein Display stark gesplittert ist, dann haftet der Saugheber vielleicht besser, wenn du die Scheibe mit durchsichtigem Paketband abdeckst. Du kannst anstelle des Saughebers auch sehr kräftiges Klebeband benutzen. Wenn das alles nicht hilft, dann klebe den Saugheber mit Sekundenkleber an der zerbrochenen Scheibe fest.

    Even with using high heat from a blow dryer, I had to put the suction cup over the home button or the bottom edge wouldn’t lift at all. That waterproof adhesive is incredibly strong.

    Aaron Soderholm -

    As others have said, this part really stinks, but it’ll work if you keep trying. Agree with multiple rounds of hair dryer on high (did about 60-90s each time), and with having to out the suction cup over the home button. You don’t need a big gap to pry it open - it’ll be slight …

    Johnny Emrica -

    Patience is the key here. Expletives and patience. Like previous comments say, putting the suction cup over the home button (I used packing tape to maintain the seal) will allow you to apply force to the proper location to separate the screen. Good luck!

    J Rawlinson -

    Get a suction cup pliers. It’ll make this part fun

    Bradley Steiner -

    iSclack EVO opened the iPhone easily even without heating with no fear of accidentally over-opening it like with a simple suction cup.

    Matti Haveri -

  7. PnYJMHrBqA2Jh22u
    PnYJMHrBqA2Jh22u
    5BxGfRPfmCqCLMOc
    xYlJ5IgLFMxCDZ2B

    • Ziehe gleichmäßig und fest am Saugnapf. Es sollte sich ein kleiner Spalt zwischen Front Panel und Rückgehäuse bilden.

    • Setze ein Plektrum in den Spalt ein.

    • Die wasserdichte Verklebung am Display ist sehr stark. Um den Spalt zu öffnen, musst du recht viel Kraft aufbringen. Wenn du Schwierigkeiten hast, solltest du nochmals Wärme anwenden und dann die Scheibe vorsichtig hoch und runter ruckeln, um so die Klebeverbindung zu schwächen, bis du genug Platz hast, um dein Werkzeug einzuführen.

    The screen on my phone was so broken, a suction cup did not work, so I softened the adhesive with a blow dryer and used a Jimmy to carefully pry open the phone from the bottom just enough to slip a pick in.

    charguy -

    Just completed a smashed screen replacement, this is probably the most time consuming part. Used packing tape to cover the screen to help create a suction surface (had to replace it a couple times because it pulls away after a purple good pulls ) Used consistent heat for about 5 minutes, then stuck a pick in the tiniest opening… and pry pry pry!

    Brian Gill -

    I failed at this step. No amount of heating, pulling, and rocking opened up enough of a gap to slip in even a knife let alone the blue plastic tool. That's with a phone that has an undamaged screen - just trying to replace the battery. Apple won this round :(

    Michael Sherman -

    Be really careful here. I placed a sucker to the front and rear to help lever off the screen. However, the whole thing came away much easier than I anticipated and I ripped the front part completely away from the rear, tearing all three connector cables. New iPhone required.

    Chris Wood -

    Note that the opening pick they show here does not appear to come with the kit, which is a bummer! The plunger, the mini blue crowbar thing, these are too thick. I ended up using a really thin guitar pick.

    Johnny Emrica -

    Following careful methods can mostly preserve the seal and reusable. Won’t be as water tight but probably still pretty good.

    Bottom edge is pull up with suction + separating tool. Use small precision scissor to cut any tape that gets overly stretched upon initial opening.

    - For the 2 long edges, use an exacto knife to separate the seal from the screen. This keeps the tape on the chassis. Go slow along the long sides. Becareful to avoid scratching the paint on underside of the screen’s edge.

    - Top corners have a thick sealed tape. Best to just use separating tool to twist it open.

    In summary, top and bottom edge use separating tool. Side long edges can use exacto knife to gradually gently separate the seal from underside of the screen’s edge.

    Howard -

    4 picks and an exacto knife, plus 45 minutes later, I finally got it to open! Thanks tor the tip!

    Cat -

    Intact screen, check. Tool kit, check. Hair dryer hot enough to make the phone too hot to touch, check. Following all instructions, check. Screen still in place and refusing to come off, check.

    I heated, reheated, pulled and pulled. I simply could not get it off. Worked at it for an hour and a half, and I’m not a small guy. Yes it is hard to hold, but could get a grip. Just could not get it to budge. Off to the iPhone repair shop tomorrow. Anybody want to buy a repair kit and replacement battery?

    Jim Meyers -

    After struggling for 30m, I looked up some alternate methods and found this helpful:

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=25zAK5mG...

    - I used a utility knife and pried up right under the home button

    - the angle matters! I was trying to go too far down before going in. The top surface of the phone is rather thin, so you go in after barely getting under the chassis lip

    - tilt utility knife left to right once you’ve got it under to work it in

    - leave the utility knife in, and now add that pick

    Jared Wilk -

    Pro-tip: don't be an idiot like me. Instead, remove the screen protector you have on the phone before applying the suction cups. Derp.

    hunter.geofizz -

    I struggled with a hair dryer at first and a singular suction cup. However, I tried putting packing tape on the spot where I put the suction job (even though my screen isn't cracked) and I was able to do it first try with ease. Definitely recommend packing tape.

    Alessio Toniolo -

    Suction cup pliers. Dead easy

    Bradley Steiner -

  8. 2QPL6xQ1bKKTHEE2
    2QPL6xQ1bKKTHEE2
    Scr2EQgs2BWhSj3N
    KyO5DVLoiSXnDh2Z

    • Schiebe das Plektrum entlang der linken Kante von der unteren Ecke an nach oben in Richtung der Tasten für die Lautstärkeregelung und des Stummschalters. Trenne so die Klebeverbindung des Displays auf.

    • Halte vor der oberen linken Ecke an.

    • Versuche nicht, die Oberkante des Displays vom Rückgehäuse wegzuhebeln, denn hier halten Plastikclips die Teile zusammen. Die Clips könnten abbrechen.

    My Plektrum worked ok, but the edges broke off a bit towards the end

    griffin.weber -

  9. bYHHQWBLX2SbZ4ZM
    bYHHQWBLX2SbZ4ZM
    oWPIhKQUMFLQKwJF
    VbhlSMqUKVaR3i4t

    • Setze das Plektrum an der rechten unteren Ecke ein. Schiebe es um die Ecke herum, dann entlang der rechten Kante nach oben. Trenne dadurch die Verklebung.

    • Setze das Plektrum nicht zu tief ein, du könntest auf dieser Seite diverse Displaykabel beschädigen. Schiebe es nur wenige Millimeter tief ein, ungefähr in der Breite des Displayrahmens.

    No pick in the kit you sent me.

    Ted Cooper -

  10. JsELGeLj2sULj4Rl
    JsELGeLj2sULj4Rl
    1Q5TB6TXChTQrCSO

    • Hebe vorsichtig den Saugnapf an und mit ihm den unteren Teil des Displays.

    • Hebe das Display maximal 15° an. Du könntest sonst die Flachbandkabel des Displays überdehnen und beschädigen.

    • Ziehe an der kleinen Lasche am Saugnapf, um ihn vom Front Panel zu lösen.

  11. 1wx6fuMwGlVmTVwg
    1wx6fuMwGlVmTVwg
    L5DvjVj5xMJAlXg4
    y6nMrARZIGjH4KZO

    • Schiebe das Plektrum unter das Display um die obere linke Ecke und die Oberkante entlang, um die letzte Klebeverbindung zu trennen.

    I did end up using just a smidge of IFIXIT adhesive remover along the edge before opening and that seemed to really help

    Karen Flowers -

    I have been using the pointed tweezers to pull the adhesive strands apart and out as the display comes off.

    Adam Yavner -

  12. pmOBsioPu6PHdocL
    pmOBsioPu6PHdocL
    wCWsnncFGO1Jy1KT

    • Schiebe die Displayeinheit leicht nach unten, weg von der Oberkante, um die Clips zu lösen, mit denen sie am Rückgehäuse gehalten wird.

  13. XaJPKiESSbHGIDqx
    XaJPKiESSbHGIDqx
    TKsLuMfvlLBnsdMa
    uyGD4MIvBrhLyuiO

    • Öffne das iPhone, indem du das Display von der linken Seite her umklappst, so wie wenn du ein Buch öffnest.

    • Versuche noch nicht, das Display ganz zu trennen. Verschiedene empfindliche Flachbandkabel verbinden es noch mit dem Logic Board.

    • Lehne das Display an einen geeigneten Gegenstand, um es gut zu stützen, während du weiter am iPhone arbeitest.

    Nach RECHTS klappen - nicht nach links!

    Manfred Wachtel -

    Als ich das Flachbandkabel auf der rechten Seite sah, hab ich mich auch gefragt, ob die das mit nach Links klappen ernst meinen, und das „Buch“ lieber auf japanische Art nach rechts aufgeklappt. Das sollte dringend in der Anleitung korrigiert werden!

    Sebastian Plickert -

    “Up from the left” means lift up the left side.

    Which is the same as folding to the right.

    “Like the back cover of a book” explains it even more clearly.

    Maybe it gets lost in translation?

    Nick Shtangey -

    Fold to THE RIGHT - not to the left!

    Jim Glenys -

    When I saw the ribbon cable on the right side, I also wondered if they were serious about folding it to the left, and the "book" would rather be opened to the right in the Japanese way.This should be corrected urgently in the manual!

    Jim Glenys -

    Hi Jim, the display opens from the left side, toward the right side. It should look like the back cover of a book. Hope this helps. Good luck with the repair!

    Adam O'Camb -

  14. X4JWAcg6GhHQOSP3
    X4JWAcg6GhHQOSP3
    CnISuIWAepn3nMmI

    • Entferne vier Kreuzschlitzschrauben, mit denen die Halterung des unteren Displaykabels am Logic Board befestigt sind. Sie haben folgende Längen:

    • Zwei 1,3 mm Schrauben.

    • Zwei 2,8 mm Schrauben.

    • Halte deine Schrauben während der ganzen Reparatur wohlgeordnet. Jede Schraube muss beim Zusammenbau wieder an ihren alten Ort zurück. Eine falsche Schraube am falschen Ort kann dauerhafte Schäden verursachen.

    • Entferne die Halterung.

    Not Y000 this time haha

    Easy Repair -

    can same length screws mixed up?

    Brook布魯克 -

    It is not ideal, but possible for these screws.

    Arthur Shi -

    using the repair kit i purchased with my screen replacement, i am currently having issues removing these screws with the PH000. please help

    Mark Ordaz -

    I was too, thankfully I had another set that contained the PH00 bit, that worked great for me.

    William Mitchell -

    Ok. My screw is stuck. How do I remove it? Philips head is stripped.

    Kristina Graham -

    Solved it myself. Firm pressure did the trick.

    Kristina Graham -

    Takes a little pressure with the Philips head

    John Toth -

    Upon this step, I noticed I had no bracket or screws. I had my screen replaced previously and I’m disappointed to find out the repairperson made no effort to replace these parts. I’ll start trusting myself more to do my own repairs.

    O D -

    took me awhile to figure out I needed to use PHOO bit for the 2 -1.3 screws

    Karen Flowers -

    It is important to keep careful track of the screws' position. Have a tidy workplace -- a few times when I tried to re-attach the very tiny screws with the tweezer, they slipped and flew away and I almost lost them.

    Matti Haveri -

    can you strip the screws / how can you tell if its strip or not

    antonio -

  15. vdubYBYlNkIsKuhK
    vdubYBYlNkIsKuhK
    asfJCUmeGVaHpBuD

    • Heble den Akkuanschluss mit der Spudgerspitze aus seinem Sockel auf dem Logic Board.

    • Biege das Akku Anschlusskabel etwas weg vom Logic Board, um zu verhindern, dass es sich versehentlich wieder mit dem Akku verbindet und das iPhone während der Reparatur unter Spannung setzt.

    Make sure you pry the battery connector off from the right hand side as shown in the picture. Theres a delicate component on the logicboard near the battery connector called a Mosfet which is linked to the battery charging software. If you knock it off accidently you’ll loose battery charging and the phone will boot loop and youll need to have it re-soldered back on.

    Gareth -

    I can confirm this as I learned my lesson by unknowingly prying the mosfet off. The phone will not charge now and is useless. I really wish they would add a note about this on Step 12 as a warning.

    Jeff -

    So this is it. You don’t have to go any further removing the screen. You can replace the battery right from this point.

    John M -

    I wish I saw this comment 2 hours ago

    Kenneth Moore -

    If I have to repeat this, I'd also consider removing replacing the battery at this point. The loose display must be then carefully fixed so the connectors don't break. And then it is not possible to re-attach the waterproof seal.

    The waterproof seal was included in the kit, but there were no instructions for it so I now skipped that. I later found YouTube video which seems to describe it (starting at 7:40):

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RcgGRhaX...

    Matti Haveri -

    This is where I broke my phone, a phone that was working quite well, paid for in full. Just because I had a cracked screen. Be super careful when connecting the cables. I was in a hurry and not paying attention, used too much force when re-connecting and broke those teeny little pins that could not be repaired. A tech tried for an hour to no avail. cautionary tale. Good luck

    Karen Flowers -

    The display ribbon is a certain length and allows for some give, but behind it is hidden the Home button/TouchID ribbon, which sits against what amounts to a razor blade. This ribbon is much more taut than the display one, and therefore you have far less freedom of movement than you think you do. This is absolutely an intentional trap to discourage replacing your own battery. Quite frankly, it’s despicable.

    Anyway, so beware of that, because although I was very careful and did not even swing the screen very far (not more than 90°), the Home button ribbon tore and now needs to be serviced. Home button is disabled now.

    Apple should be ashamed of themselves for this. Please do look at the legislation effort that people are doing to try to get this kind of sabotage illegal, as well as all sorts of other gimmicks they pull. For a company that makes phenomenal products, they’re controlling like an abusive spouse.

    Dan Knight

    daniel -

    That happened to me and I could not figure out how it got broken. It's the home button and fingerprint reader.

    But I'm not bothering to get it fixed and I'm not replacing the entire screen. I went into system prefs/accessibility and activated the on-screen home button. Oh, well.

    robin -

    I cannot get the new battery reconnected to the connection port. Any tips/tricks? New and old battery connections appear similar. It wasn't difficult to disconnect to old battery.

    Robert Ast -

    Some reports here seem to indicate that the battery must be the very last connector to re-connect because otherwise there might be malfunction in some display components?

    It wasn't difficult to disconnect to old battery. But the most difficult part for me was to get the new battery reconnected to the connection port. I tried many times to carefully position and press it down with my fingertip or the flat end of the spudger but it did not hold its position. Maybe I pressed too weak because I was afraid breaking the connector and the mosfet above (?) it. But finally to my surprise it connected (at that point I temporarily booted the iPhone with the loose display to verify that the battery was connected). Whew, it succeeded!

    Matti Haveri -

  16. TCwUjpw4oswOSAXN
    TCwUjpw4oswOSAXN
    Vjj4xROqJwdhjhrT

    • Heble den unteren Displaystecker mit der Spudgerspitze aus seinem Sockel.

    • Um Druckverbinder wie diesen wieder anzuschließen, musst du erst auf einer Seite herunterdrücken, dann auf der anderen. Drücke nicht in der Mitte. Wenn der Verbinder auch nur ein bisschen daneben sitzt, kann er sich verbiegen und irreparabel beschädigt werden.

    I broke the lower display connector. Is it possible to replace that part separately or do I need to buy a full screen replacement?

    Ross Mckellar -

  17. nuu4q5qZrNVlF1n2
    nuu4q5qZrNVlF1n2
    ZeGwj4XhWqCFSoRa

    • Löse den Verbinder am zweiten unteren Displaykabel mit der Spudgerspitze.

  18. hGBZSQdwlg53JjuO
    hGBZSQdwlg53JjuO
    EiOkLa1UAXIrQF1o

    • Entferne die drei 1,3 mm Kreuzschlitzschrauben, mit denen die Halterung über dem Verbinder der Front Panel Sensoreinheit befestigt ist.

    • Entferne die Halterung.

    If you are replacing the adhesive liner, the remaining release liner strips will interfere with the two outer screws. I had to cut a working section out of the liner at each location and move it aside with the spudger.

    Thomas Tritt -

    This part is throwing me for a loop. Having difficulty finding the read head for these screws. Is it the same size as the two small 1.3mm screws in step 12?

    Jared Hensley -

    ended up getting it with the PH000, I must of just been rushing it.

    Jared Hensley -

    My bracket looks different and none of the screw heads I have fits.

    Ray Rushing -

    Mine too? Any help?

    George Waller -

    These screws did not stick to the magnetic screwdriver. Extremely difficult to get them back in place - but with some patience i succeeded :)

    Niklas Brammer -

  19. 1qYKeCSMYWRsFEnh
    1qYKeCSMYWRsFEnh
    tDDsCXEve1a6jSr3

    • Löse den Verbinder der Front Panel Sensoreinheit mit der Spudgerspitze.

    Do you have a link for the flex cord shown in the pictures so I can purchase it? Having a hard time locating that exact assembly

    Regal Carveiro -

  20. VcZIwswUILoZYWbE

    Hi ifixit, if you find my method dangerous, please remove it.

    After Step 17, I skipped Step 18 to Step 28.

    At Step 29, I lifted up the four adhesive black pull-tabs to expose the white adhesive side. Next, I use hot air gun and blow on the back cover of the iphone for about a minute (maybe a hairdryer will work too) .

    Warning: Don't overheat the iPhone, or you may accidentally ignite the battery.

    I think the temperature was around 60 DegC.

    Extreme Caution: Do Not overheat. I use my hand to gauge the hotness. Careful not to burn yourself or the board.

    I was able to pull out all the white adhesive tapes easily as the adhesive soften.

    DO NOT TRY this method if you are a novice or inexperience! I am not responsible if you hurt yourself or damage your iphone!

    John -

    Hey John! I’m glad the repair worked out for you!

    From our research, applying heat does soften the adhesive strips, but it also causes them to lose structural integrity and break more easily. That’s why we normally suggest using heat after the strips are already broken. Removing the Taptic Engine definitely takes a few extra steps, but we feel that it gives fixers the best chance of pulling out the adhesive strips intact.

    Arthur Shi -

    I agree with John, skip 18 through 27. These are to make it easier to remove the battery adhesive. I replaced the batteries on two IPhone 8s. The first one I did all that stuff and the adhesive still broken and I had to carefully pry the battery out anyway. When I reassembled the phone the Home button no longer worked. Looking it up, this is apparently fairly common due to all the fragile wires involved in these steps. The second I skipped these steps and when I reassembled it everything worked fine. Not one of the eight (both phones) adhesive strips came out properly. I fully drained the batteries before doing the repairs. By the way, I use the virtual home button on the one phone, it’s a little annoying, but the phone is still usable if you’re not ready to shell out for a new phone.

    Gary Berman -

    I also skipped removing the Taptic Engine. I could only half-way pull the lower battery tapes and completely the upper tapes after carefully prying them loose with the tweezer. I then used a hair-dryer for a minute to warm the battery and the other side of the phone (I used my other hand to make sure I did not apply too much heat. Make sure you do not blow the tiny loose screws away with the hair dryer!) and then slowly lifted the upper battery somewhat with the Opening pics tool, then re-heated the lower remaining tapes and quite easily lifted the battery out.

    I had bought two-sided tape to reconnect the battery but it had the tapes pre-installed (I wonder if it is necessary to tape the battery at all?).

    Matti Haveri -

    I also skipped these steps. I won’t say it was entirely successful - two of the four adhesive strips broke and could not be grabbed with tweezers. But I had gotten most of the adhesive out already and the battery was quite loose, so I used a warmer under the phone, then gently slid a flat plastic blade under one end of the battery and slowly worked it up the phone. (Dental floss would have been safer-don’t do what I did, kids!)

    Matt D -

    Likely can skip step 18-28 and all the risks. Battery tape is relatively removable by the following method

    - use a tweezer to pull up a corner of each tape. Then use fingers to peel back all the black tab on top of battery

    - use 2 hands. Index and thumb on both. Pull about 1/4” with one hand, hold the tension and pull 1/4” with the other hand. Alternate, go slow. Pull out all 4 tape completely. I think the pause after each 1/4” while holding the stretched tape firmly prevents the tape from over stretching to become too thin and break.

    - Don’t apply heat, I would guess that makes tape softer and break easier.

    Have tried other methods and failed in the past. Pulling too fast (tape will snap) or use a tweezer to twist/roll (sharp edges will cut tape) Anyway, just use index/thumb on both hands and alternately pull slowly

    I did do 2 iPhone 8 battery change this way. One removed all tape without breaking. Another broken all 4 tape after about 1/3 pulled so likely some factory assembly differeces.

    Howard -

    I second this, this method works well in most cases. Removing the haptics helps to keep the angle low and pulling the tape as straight as possible

    Hein Blöd -

    Howards method for removing the adhesive works like a charm. The only addition I made was to slightly warm the back of the iphone on a rice pack (used for sore neck muscles—haha). Going back and forth between hands is really crucial. While on hand gives a gentle pull, the other holds the phone from moving. Slow back and forth. Thanks.

    Lynn Thomas -

  21. C3FyYiUfZDrATcGX
    C3FyYiUfZDrATcGX
    W6ZvW53leLeJoPxm

    • Entferne die vier Y000 Schrauben an der Halterung über dem Home/Touch ID Sensor:

    • Eine 1,2 mm Schraube

    • Drei 1,3 mm Schrauben

    • Entferne die Halterung.

    • Achte beim Wiederzusammenbau darauf, diese Schrauben nicht zu fest anzuziehen, sonst funktioniert dein Home Button unter Umständen nicht.

    Bei meinem iPhone waren das Y00 Schrauben, nicht Y000

    Andreas Veeser -

    If the screw on the home button is broken, you can bend the metal sides upwards and pull down out of the phone and push and refold into the new display. Example: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DTCQA-jn...

    Andy Knapp -

    Andy Knapp - wherever you are - you saved me. NOTE: the iphone 8 has four tri-wing screws - that means you need a tri-wing screwdriver. I ordered an entire replacement set and mine had one in there, but it does not mention anything about tri-wing in these instructions… so. Hope that helps someone.

    Paula Lofland -

    On my iPhone, these were Y00 screws, not Y000

    Jim Glenys -

    Dutch version speaks of one 1,3 mm screw, but has 3 of those screws.

    Fonne Van Gils -

    There is a difference between Y00 and Y000. I realized this after unknowingly trying the Y000 and damaging the tip of the screwdriver, as the metal is apparently softer than the screw. I was able to use the corner of a flat metal file to make the cheap Y0000 work (which came with the replacement kit) by making 3 adjustments: 10 filing down the tip, 2) filing the shoulders to make the tips more pointed, and 3) cleaning out the 3 channels to remove burrs from the tip edges.

    Robert Lanzafame -

  22. 5JRgEZR3QgUIKnIK
    5JRgEZR3QgUIKnIK
    WOm34TtFHCZDroBc
    Rtmt1jOfimOEWcIp

    • Setze das Plastiköffnungswerkzeug unter der linken Kante des Steckers vom Home Button Kabel an und heble ihn hoch.

    • Wenn der ganze Stecker nach oben klappt, ohne sich zu lösen, dann musst du das Kabel an der Oberkante des Steckers mit dem flachen Ende des Spudgers nach unten drücken und gleichzeitig an der linken Kante des Steckers nach oben hebeln. Pass auf, dass du dabei weder Kabel noch Stecker beschädigst, denn sonst könnte der Sensor ganz kaputt gehen.

    To have a better view on this connection I have removed the metal plate covering the back of the glass. Its a thin piece of metal held by 9 screws. To unscrew the 8 screws you need the screwdriver head with 3 sides like the Mercedes Benz symbole. The last is with a phillips near the camera.

    forhereyesonly -

    I thought I was going to tear the cable doing it the way it’s suggested in the guide. After examining the cable on the replacement screen, I found it easier to hold the bottom connector pressed against the screen with one leg of needle nose tweezers whilst gently prying off the top connector with an opening tool.

    Cool_Breeze -

    See step 22 to get a clearer picture of what the connector looks like when it is separated from its socket. Your replacement screen will have a new socket (i.e., the bottom piece of the connector). My replacement screen had a new socket attached to the unit by a thin piece of plastic. For reassembly, when working the Home Button/Touch ID assembly back into the new screen, I had to work the connector cable under the socket in order to get the connector re-attached.

    Kristina Graham -

    Be extra careful with this step: it wasn’t clear to me from the description that the connector wrapped from underneath to connect, nor did my set come with picks. I used a blade from the wrong side, inadvertently (but way too easily) severing the connector and destroying the function of the home button and thus the entire phone.

    Jennifer Indeliclae -

    Be careful, I initially didn’t found the connector and nearly ripped the cable. The connector leads to a cable that goes under the metal plate. Found a YouTube video with very good close ups for this part (go cell phone repair detailed version)

    Svenja Büsing -

    I initially didn’t found the connector and cable and nearly broke it. The connector leads to a cable that goes under the metal plate, I needed YouTube video with good close ups to understand the setup.

    Svenja Büsing -

  23. TIioXdAH3FA1YH5f

    • Das empfindliche Kabel des Sensors ist verklebt. Es ist hilfreich den Bereich rund um den Sensor zu erwärmen, um den Kleber aufzuweichen.

    • Drehe die Displayeinheit herum. Benutze einen Haartrockner oder erwärme einen iOpener, um die untere Kante des Displays für 90 Sekunden zu erwärmen. So wird der Kleber darunter weich.

    • Erhitze das Display nicht zu stark. Es sollte gerade so heiß sein, dass es unangenehm ist es anzufassen.

    The stove top works well also. Remember, as the main instructions say, it should be slightly too hot to touch comfortably.

    forhereyesonly -

  24. nnPsbhgZ3Ciy3MYd
    nnPsbhgZ3Ciy3MYd
    Exy4jdwBwNiRYVwl
    VCXYytuxIOIRZKMf

    • Trenne die Klebeverbindung des Home/Touch ID Sensorkabels mit einem Plektrum von der Rückseite des Displays.

    My original assembly broke trying to follow this step carefully. :(

    Ann -

    This one’s kind of hard to reconnect. Just remember to be gentle, take your time, and use your hands so that you can really feel it out.

    Johnny Emrica -

    Keep in mind, there’s a tiny rubber ring gasket between the Touch ID button and the display. In my experience when removing the button, the gasket stuck partly to the the button and partly to the display. I gently removed the part that was sticking to the display and guided it back on the button. If you’re missing that gasket it won’t be waterproof.

    Sam Tropper -

  25. VPPBP1NZRwGXKW5H

    • Entferne die Home/Touch ID Sensoreinheit, indem du sie durch die Vorderseite des Displays durchziehst.

    • Beim Zusammenbau musst du erst das Kabel durch das Loch in der Vorderseite des Displays fädeln, wie im Bild gezeigt.

    • Bei deinem Ersatzteil können zusätzliche Y000-Schrauben bereits enthalten sein, die in der Nähe des Home Buttons montiert sind. Entferne die unnötigen Schrauben, damit du die Halterung des Home Buttons wieder montieren kannst.

    Instructions were great. Putting the connections back is a bit of a hassle, but patience is your friend. Phone is up and running. Thanks iFixit.

    pwpfef01 -

    Couldn’t get the Home Button (original one I was transferring) to work. I know the instructions said something about not tightening down the 4 screws around the Home Button too much, but how much is too much. Also, a day later, the screen I bought starting having green vertical lines. Took everything back apart and started from scratch the next day and still had the same 2 problems. Just for the heck of it, I put the old cracked screen back on the phone and everything started working again. Figured I wasted about 6-8 hours total on this rather small project and I’m right back where I started again. Something definitely wrong with the screen I ordered and I’m very disappointed. I’ve bought products from ifixit before and they worked, but no such luck this time. Anyone know how I get my 70 bucks back?

    Todd Skobjak -

    Hi Todd!

    I’m sorry to hear about your experience! Please contact our customer support and we will get the issue resolved!

    Arthur Shi -

    They charged you $70 bucks for a new replacement screen for an iphone8 and it didn't even work right that's crazy they are over charging people considering my wife only payed $23 for a new replacement screen kit that comes with the new screen and everything else you need to change it out plus a extra screen protector and I just finished replacing the screen and so far so good no green vertical lines running down my screen. I like ifixit because they show me how to fix what I need to fix but I don't think I will be buying anything from them anytime soon.

    Lincoln -

    I greatly support Ifixit… but.. for me the same story as Todd Skobjak. Put in the new screen. Touch button is not found. Retried with screws loosened and refitting the plug. Nothing. Put the old screen back and the touch button worked again. So.. something with the new provided screen from Ifixed must be the case. I'll also get in touch with customer support.

    Ifixed: not only check the screen but also the cable to the touch button!

    Ton Vaes -

    What’s the trick here?

    Getting an “unable to activate Touch ID” after replacing the home button and a new screen - somewhat similar to that above. Any troubleshooting steps/resolution? I loosened, tightened screws holding the assembly, no effect.

    schaferjon -

    The button is paired with the motherboard. if you change the screen, always attempt to retrieve the original button.. otherwise touchid will not be available

    Bill McNamara -

    The instructions for this home/touch button repair were spot on! The special tip in red for Step 19 was extremely useful because that was exactly what I encountered while attempting to remove the original home/touch button from the original front screen. Step 21 and accompanying photos were a life saver as well, but this process did require heating the screen with my wife’s hair dryer several times to be able to gently pry up the adhesive for the home/touch button ribbon without ripping it to pieces. And yes my phone worked great after completing this repair. Time spent meant money saved and a personal satisfaction and pride in a job well done. Thank you Team iFixit!

    Jeffery Anderson -

    the steps to move the front camera and speaker to the new screen are missing, right?

    martijn.klabbers -

  26. rDN11SlRpAxKEtFM

    • Entferne die drei Kreuzschlitzschrauben, mit denen die obere Halterung des Ohrhörers am Frontpanel befestigt ist:

    • Zwei 2,6 mm Schrauben

    • Eine 1,8 mm Schraube

    from which one?

    Brodie Larkin -

    I updated the step to clarify that!

    Arthur Shi -

  27. NZEE4Nl66U5NOqOK

    • Entferne die Halterung des Ohrhörer-Lautsprechers.

  28. sqB2SqkClGKubrmO
    sqB2SqkClGKubrmO
    K6n4tHhT6EqMEvVy

    • Hebe die Frontkamera aus ihrer Buchse und kippe sie weg.

  29. rpbGKtNCNlyQiJ3A

    • Entferne die beiden Kreuzschlitzschrauben, die den Ohrhörer-Lautsprecher am Frontpanel befestigen:

    • Eine 1,8 mm Schraube

    • Eine 2,3 mm Schraube

  30. vp1AfVp2TVjLMfxx

    • Entferne den Ohrhörer-Lautsprecher.

    The metal faceplate that you can see in the image on my speaker has been scratched an scored from a previous repair by someone else. Could this affect the speaker in any way?

    Kyle Webb -

    Hi Kyle,

    The metal shield should have no effect on the speaker. Granted, it may hint that damage was done around the area, which may have damaged the speaker module.

    Arthur Shi -

    Hi , I have Changed with success the camera piece but after reassembling, the speaker does Not work.A weird fact ist that Wireless Headphones will now reproduce músic but Not Phone Sounds(voices)! Have you Got any idea about this ? I am quite Sure I didn t damage the speaker but before changing It(as a posible Next step)I world like to ask you for any comment ! Thanks

    enbernat -

  31. E33MT4EuxRqcVnZa

    • Erhitze einen iOpener und lege ihn auf die Oberkante des Displays, um den Kleber aufzuweichen, der die Frontkamera- und Sensoreinheit befestigt.

    • Warte etwa zwei Minuten, bevor du mit dem nächsten Schritt weitermachst, damit der Kleber ausreichend aufgeweicht wird.

  32. Jxu1MnCRHsybW1I5
    Jxu1MnCRHsybW1I5
    mXVfN1oOVFXBQN6s

    • Heble den Näherungssensor vorsichtig mit der Spudgerspitze aus seiner Vertiefung im Frontpanel.

    • Versuche, dein Werkzeug ganz unter den Sensor zu schieben, um ihn vom durchsichtigen Plastik darunter wegzuhebeln. Wenn du nur gegen das Kabel hebelst, kann sich der Sensor von der Kabeleinheit lösen und muss dann ersetzt werden. Wenn du die Sensor-/Kabeleinheit sowieso austauschst, dann macht das nichts aus.

    Achtung: sehr kritische Operation !!! Kabel löst sich sehr schnell vom Sensor…nur am Sensor arbeiten, nicht am Kabel ziehen…gut wärmen und Geduld !

    ubrunner -

    Attention: very critical operation !!! Cable detaches very quickly from the sensor... only work on the sensor, do not pull the cable... warm well and patience !

    Jim Glenys -

  33. YCR2yPFxPx5JoM3j
    YCR2yPFxPx5JoM3j
    k2LDJiXLxbjFexcK

    • Schiebe die Spitze eines Spudgers unter das Kabel des Umgebungslichtsensors und hebe den Sensor aus seinem Gehäuse.

  34. 41YtN6HRWLTCXFmV
    41YtN6HRWLTCXFmV
    flTUHdPmiG5clFPC
    2PNGDnYjOXlwHjf5

    • Schiebe ein Plektrum (Opening Pick) unter die Frontkamera-Einheit und löse die Klebeverbindung, mit der die Kamera und das Sensorkabel befestigt sind.

  35. V2Uj21gCNVZ6DVwp

    • Entferne Frontkamera und Sensorkabel.

  36. Xxj6bXCiOMHmJkUM
    Xxj6bXCiOMHmJkUM
    maVMTPfwmEEuGBf1

    • Entferne die drei 1,2 mm Y000 Schrauben auf jeder Seite des Displays, also insgesamt sechs Schrauben.

    Bei meinem iPhone 8 handelt es sich hierbei um Y00 Schrauben, der Y000 Bit greift nicht richtig

    Andreas Veeser -

  37. d2lb1QtcbeirBLjl

    • Erhitze einen iOpener und lege ihn über die Kante der Abschirmung direkt beim Home Button, um den Kleber, mit dem es befestigt ist, aufzuweichen.

  38. DZQSiuUIqmiuF5F1
    DZQSiuUIqmiuF5F1
    OOLVWMRnAaKC6PxN
    uEWPOXtaZoVJVtRC

    • Benutze ein Plektrum (Opening Pick), um den Kleber nahe am Home Button zu lösen, mit dem das flache Displaykabel am LCD Abschirmblech festgeklebt ist.

  39. caZODcNVshPXkwpi
    caZODcNVshPXkwpi
    UZ42dw1LAjYItDgH
    VRriQyS15AoVORGE

    • Setze ein Plektrum (Opening Pick) von der unteren rechten Ecke her ein und löse das Displaykabel weiter vom LCD Abschirmblech ab.

  40. rShTvIFqPYg6ghtR
    rShTvIFqPYg6ghtR
    6Kx1WKVkGgLl2WQc

    • Hebe das LCD Abschirmblech vorsichtig von der Displayeinheit ab.

    • Achte darauf, dass sich die Displaydatenkabel nicht verfangen, während du das LCD Abschirmblech entfernst.

  41. Pma2ha6MDEIZHXCo

    • Nur das LCD und der Touchscreen bleiben übrig.

Abschluss

Vergleiche dein Ersatzteil mit dem Originateil - möglicherweise musst du fehlende Bauteile übertragen oder Schutzfolien am Neuteil abziehen, bevor du es einbauen kannst.

Um dein Gerät wieder zusammenzubauen, folge den Schritten dieser Anleitung in umgekehrter Reihenfolge.

Entsorge deinen Elektromüll fachgerecht.

Lief die Reparatur nicht wie geplant? In unserem iPhone SE 2020 Forum findest du Hilfe bei der Fehlersuche.

Tinte & Feder

Adam O'Camb

Mitglied seit: 11/04/15

178852 Reputation

4 Kommentare

Is anyone else experiencing low brightness after replacing the LCD? TrueTone to blame? Any known fix yet…

Device Trader -

true tone is disabled after a screen swap. At least thats what I see online

catchpoler725 -

Will the screen replacement disable anything? I know it's common to have true tone disabled, but will replacing it disable touch id on this device?

Phone repair -

Currently this device will still allow Touch ID to work after a screen repair, but if you try to replace the home button you will lose Touch ID functionality. It will work ONLY as a home button if you replace Touch ID.

BRUCEL86 -