iPhone X Ohrhörer-Lautsprecher und Frontsensoreinheit austauschen

There are 6.81mm long screws!

One of the pentalobe screws is stripped :( - suggestions for how to get it out?

same situation here

Thanks for the info. Could a air convector do the job

When opening a device that has previously been worked on, and on which the adhesive might not have been replaced, be extremely carful when opening the phone. It will open much more easily than expected. If you’re not careful you might rip a cable.

DO NOT separate the glass from the plastic bumper or rim around it. These instructions don't clarify that the pick has to be inserted between the plastic rim and the metal body. It is likely that the glass will lift slightly off the plastic surround before the plastic will lift out of the metal body. I had success sliding a card or pick back and forth along the bottom edge of the plastic rim while pulling on the suction cup. Eventually there was a space large enough for the pick to go under the plastic rim.

If you were using some form of screen protector, it may come off first as soon as you pull on the suction cup. Do not be alarmed. That is normal behavior.

3m VSB double stick tape will stick to the screen when the suction cups fail (see my comment on step 1)

In addition to safety goggles, I would recommend you also wear good gloves to avoid getting cut with the glass as you try to pry it open.

The top about applying more heat and gently rocking the screen up and down to weaken the adhesive did the trick for me. Thank you!

There needs to be more clarity on where to shove the opening pick into. There is actually two openings that the pry tool can be forced into: one below the black plastic bezel, and one above the black plastic bezel. When I heated my screen with a warming pad and pulled up the suction cup, it actually pried apart above the black plastic bezel which removed the touch screen from the display panel. With this being the first newer iPhone I'd opened since the 3GS, I didn't realize that I was opening the wrong opening as the directions only mentioned one opening and did not warn of this. I was pretty disappointed in the lack of mentioning this, as I was taking my time and following it to the tee. As a result, it destroyed my original iPhone screen.

If you have flat feeler gauges (for adjusting engine valve tappet clearance, ignition points … old school) the .003” thick gauge goes right in. Work your way up in thickness until you can get the pic or supplied pry tool in. Don’t insert metal feeler gauge in too far, just enough to hold crack open. I didn’t need to use the suction cup. I used a hot/cold gel pack heated in microwave to heat edges to soften glue a bit. Made sure it wasn’t so hot I couldn’t stand it on my skin.

These are the best instructions I’ve ever read for anything.! Thank you!

My phone came apart in a different way and looks not right the little box at the top of the display as actually bolted to the top of the frame body I think something went really wrong when I opened it.

It opens like a book but be careful not to open it all the way — only as far as shown in the photo. Otherwise it will strain the thin cable that connects the sensor module and then no more FaceID for you (or, as it turns out me). This could have been made more explicit in the instructions.

It opens like a book but be careful not to open it all the way  … the small stainless steel tabs that hold the screen around the metal frame, that are on the bend place (right side of the phone)… are tend to bend, you can straighten them back to 90 deg. but the plastic base that they are on? very fragile- watch out not to break the plastic bezel … it may come apart of the glass.

One thing I found helpful for replacing the screws was to use only the 000screwdriver tip, without the handle. This way, the tip isn’t magnetized and the screw doesn’t tend to ‘roll’ off the screwdriver tip (the screw has almost no mass, so the head (largest surface) is pulled around to the side of the screwdriver tip when magnetized).

Rich May 23, 2020

My 3.1mm screw had a stripped head, could not remove it. (Factory defect, this iPhone was never opened)

So I had to give up removing the display assembly, and jumped directly to battery replacement, Step 20.

That was tricky as I had to keep the display at 90º with a risk of breaking display connectors, but hopefully the replacement went well.

I would not recommend to do this but to follow the guide, but, in case someone encounters a similar issue, that could help!

My 1.1mm screw had a stripped head. Used a 3mm steel drill to cut the head off (just 1 mm deep haha) so i could remove the bracket.

I tested all imaginable functionality on the new OLED screen. Taptics are fine. Then, I noticed that the battery wasn't charging. Any ideas as to what could have gone wrong?

for me, the replacement battery was completely dead, small panic when the power-on button was pressed, but quickly realised that this was the situation, and now watching the phone take a power cycle.

cosa può succedere se non si disconnette la scheda logica'?

Snap ‘em in like little Legos.

Maybe the manual should flip step 17 and 18 (as the digitizer cable from 18, is in the way of the OLED cable of step 17) ?

I was positive that I had messed something up, I had powered up the phone to test three different times and everything seemed find except there was no touch at all. On my fourth attempt, I carefully examined everything for dust and debris (blowing gently), and I did notice that a corner of the connector (more like part of the ribbon) was bent slightly, and I straightened it. I don't know if it was the ribbon or some tiny debris, but after reseating a fourth time, it worked.

Very important part of the tutorial. Be careful and patience! In my case the screen and camera didn't respond after assemble, so I tried again to reconnect the connector like tutorial said and it worked well. Now my iPhone feel like a new one 💪🏼

Do this sensor affect face id?

It is part of the face id part so yes. This is the ear piece too so if the ribbon tears there is a chance the ear piece will stop working as well.

Be super careful handling this ribbon particularly. I did a battery install and, when I was done, I had a phone with a new battery and no Face ID. That’s a $300 Apple repair, and no 3rd party shop will touch it. I believe the ribbon lays vertically (i.e., perpendicular to the “floor” of the phone, against the side edge of the battery. During the re-install, I must have forced the ribbon into position after seating the connector, causing fatal flexing of the ribbon. (Don’t know this for sure, but I see another comment saying that this cable is part of Face ID.) Anyway, bottom line: BE CAREFUL REMOVING AND REINSTALLING THIS RIBBON!

I tried this and broke the cable can it still repair

At this point I would have found it easier to remove the glue from the edges than later on when I was reassembling it. I bought the kit that had the replacement glue in it.

Excellent guide! Would love to have a link to moving the sensor assembly from the old display to the new here.

Not sure as of what to do now, I have stripped this screw.

It might be your driver tip that is no good. Try a new driver tip Y000

when I opened my iPhone the screw was already stripped, I had the phone once at an Apple store for repair about 2 years ago. Had not opened it in between so it seems they stripped the screw there or it came like that from the factory. Any ideas? I don’t want to try and force it out.

sin ese clip la señal wifi se recibe a duras penas

Is there a way to just buy the gold grounding clip because my phone cannot search for wifi anymore!

Is there any way we buy the ground metal clip separately please if there’s a way to get it emailed me

What do you do if the 1.6mm tripoint screw won’t come out…? I think it may be stripped :(

You could try using an old screwdriver & carefully adding a dab of superglue to the screw to attach it to the screwdriver, Then the screw may come out, Superglue’s strength is holding 2 pieces together when the stress point is pulling the 2 pieces away from each other. Superglue becomes surprisingly easy to break when twisting the 2 pieces. So be careful since the rotation of the screw will put the stress point at the weakest of the glue’s strength.

I would suggest:

1. Try a small precision flat head, a good quality one, I bought some that were supposed to be to remove stripped screws, about 20-30 bucks for 4 or 5 of them, and they have saved my butt many times.

2. I have been able to remove stripped screws with wire cutters. Or you can try some vamp pliers but they are probably too large for this situation.

3. If the last two fail, the course of action is to basically destroy the head of that screw (assuming you are removing the stuff you need for your new lcd, which is very likely) they have drill bits called easy outs or screw removing drill bit, which is a drill bit with the spiral going the opposite direction (for a screw that tiny you can take a small drill bit, cut and sharpen the end that normally has no spiral, I have made that work in the past) the point is that as you drill in, the drill bit is digging and moving counterclockwise, so at some point as it digs in it will get “stuck” and keep spinning go the screw, thus removing it.

i damage the cable, where can i buy a replacemnt

que temperatura debe tener una estacion de calor para hacer el trabajo del iopener

I could not have done this without the iOpener, it was worth the investment!

i can i purchase this part

yes mr.brown, you can

if you interrupt a small part of that black tape, is the piece of Face ID/micro phone unrecoverable?

quá rõ ràng, cảm ơn ifixit

In my case the diffuser came out with the light sensor, but not completely. A layer of the diffuser was left behind in the recess. We will see how it goes. ;) I will report back.

what colour is the diffuser

there was no bracket on my new screen I purchased from here.. am I supposed to heat up and remove the old one, or was their supposed to be one on the new screen ??

@br0k3nilluzion If your new display didn’t come with a front camera frame, you can (and should) remove the old one from your broken display and transfer it over. Use heat and careful wiggling/prying to remove it—and if it’s stubborn, add a few drops of isopropyl alcohol. Hope this helps!