Einleitung

Ersetze deinen Speicher mit einer neuen Festplatte.

  1. mmIJOyYlvjSvCBrH
    • Schiebe die "Hold"-Taste vor Reparaturbeginn in die Sperrstellung. Dazu muss die orangefarbene Markierung sichtbar sein.

    How necessary is it to have the HOLD switch in the locked position? On my iPod the switch is stuck in the unlocked position and I can't force it into locked.

    Is locking the iPod for a mechanical reason or an electrical/software reason?

    gabeshaikh -

    Zitat von gabeshaikh:

    How necessary is it to have the HOLD switch in the locked position? On my iPod the switch is stuck in the unlocked position and I can't force it into locked.

    Is locking the iPod for a mechanical reason or an electrical/software reason?

    It is for an electrical reason. If the iPod hold switch is kept on, the device will not turn on, thus ensuring the device stays powered off while performing service.

    trusty -

    I have a 60 GB iPod photo that needs a new Logic Board. I bought a 30 GB used iPod on eBay and replaced the Logic Board. Now the iPod thinks the hard drive is only 30 GB, when it is really 60 GB. It works, but the hard drive is not recognized for its full size. Sites like this offer a 20 GB and 40 GB logic board...I apparently need 60 GB. Can I bypass this somehow, or do I really need a logic board that is specifically made for 60 GB???

    Mark -

    My 30gig drive shows up as a 16.4gig. I can not for the life of me, figure out why this is doing this. Can anyone help? Thanks!

    Stephan -

    Hello,

    First thank you for this tuto and help.

    I did follow your instructions and every step was ok but when I closed my i'Pod, it kept staying on the lock position even with moving the lock button.

    Now it has charged but I could not make it run.

    So I did a complete reboot by connecting it to my Mac with i'Tunes to restore.

    It's still locked.

    What can I do?

    Than You for your answer

    Thomas

    Voisin -

    Much quicker and far easier opening from the right side instead of from the top using the blue plastic spudger. Opened in under 10sec. Do not know why this guide asks you to start from the top and work it to the left corner. Perhaps it was meant as a challenge.

    Edwin Seah -

    Well, I did it! I am pretty mechanically inclined, but I don't work well with small stuff. Anyway, as others mentioned, this step was the hardest for me, the included tools, worthless (to start to separate the case) As another person mentioned, I used a razor blade on the side on the upper left corner pushing down toward the metal clips, 'pop' once the first came off, then I used the blue tools to release the remaining clips. I didn't want to remove the connector in step 8, but had literally no room to work, the connector is a square push in type that is attached to the ribbon cable, I pryed with the blue tool carefully at the connector base, it popped right off! (getting is back on was more challenging, but managed with a small pair of needle nose pliers.) Had to pry the old battery out carefully - it was really in there. Got it all back together, works like a champ! Thanks ifixit!

    mikesnyder -

    Promptly broke both blue plastic tools. I used a putty knife to pop the case. Opening was the only hard part. I didn't disconnect the headphone cable. No problems and the battery has enough charge that I listening to Bare Naked Ladies now. Last week I installed a new hard drive in my Mac mini. IFixit is the greatest!

    heldon -

    If you are lucky, your battery may swell up like mind did, short of blowing up it opened the case for me. That being done really made it easy and encouraged me to do the repair myself. I still needed the proper screw driver (T6 Torx Screwdriver) to remove the two black torx screws that are found at step 10 of this repair guide. I purchased the iFixit 64bit driver kit, simply because I intend to work on several other iPods and phones, the kit is of good quality, well worth the purchase. If you have some mechanical ability, and follow the instructions, I was done in about 20 minutes, placed it back on my Bose player. I couldn't wait for it to charge, just wanted it to start playing, and after a minute or so my iPod 4th gen 20 gb was playing the music which I hadn't heard in about 3 to 4 years, as a result of a enlarged battery. As I write these comments down, I'm listening to my sweet tunes with a big smile on my mug, the sign of a satisfied customer. Thanks to iFIXIT.!!!

    Alex DeLeon -

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    • Setze ein Plektrum so tief wie möglich an der rechten Kante des iPods in die Naht zwischen der Kunststoff-Vorderseite und der Metallrückseite ein.

    • Wahrscheinlich musst du das Plektrum etwas hin und her ruckeln, damit es weit hineingeht.

    • Heble mit dem Plektrum gegen die Kunststoff-Vorderseite, so dass sich die fünf Haltelaschen lösen (im dritten Bild zu sehen).

    • Heble weiter mit dem Plektrum um die Kanten des iPods herum und löse die restlichen Haltelaschen.

    • Wenn die fünf Haltelaschen an der rechten Seite gelöst sind, sollte sich das Gehäuse leicht öffnen lassen.

    This being the first time I opened my iPod, it was super tight. Nothing plastic I had was strong enough; even my thumbnail just barely could get a sliver of separation, not big enough to wedge anything else in there. The sandwiched halves of the case chewed up my spudger pretty good, and so I actually resorted (slap on wrist) to a Liquitex acrylic-painting knife, kind of a superthin metal spatula, which worked perfectly. Just had to slide it in carefully. Unit is way out of warranty, though, so I wasn’t too concerned about some superficial damage to the edge of the plastic case front, which did in fact occur. Probably be easier next time around.

    gginex -

    This step is incorrect and should be changed. There is no way to slide anything into that space except a straight edge razor blade or something just as sharp and sturdy. Once the blade is firmly in place, you can then slip in an opening pick and remove the blade. From there, everything else is accurate.

    Kelly -

    I second the suggestion of using a putty knife. Worked way better! A bit nerve-racking at first as I was afraid of doing serious damage, but I succeeded. I’m definitely a novice at this, but these comments helped at every turn.

    Lori Farthing -

    I also had trouble opening the case at first but, having looked at some other instructions from other guides, I found it easiest to start the opening from the top, After that everything was straitforward. Installing the new battery and reconnecting the couple of connectors took less than two minutes. New battery charging now, but iPod working perfectly at the moment. Many thanks.

    Clive Richards -

    No way you're getting a pick in there. I tried and it's too tight. Start with iPod opening tool to make your gap. Hold it open and wiggle in a pick. Then wiggle and slide the pick up and down the side and it pops right open.

    SEAN Tanton -

    This was by far the most difficult step of the repair process. Did eventually get it open using jewelers tiny flat blade screwdriver and then the pick, Scratched up the case a little on the corner but got the job done,

    tom -

    I had a lot of trouble with this. This video made it super easy though https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dYZqTvlT... Pressing firmly on the back in the center and using the case opener tool made it super easy. Recommend!

    Sam Soffes -

    I found that starting at the top was much easier than the side. I also found the pick too soft. The plastic spudger included in kit worked great.

    James Monahan -

    Spent an hour trying I had no tools but my long nails it worked with no damage to the ipod rip my nails though

    James middleton -

    Just to make this idiot proof [e.g.: folks like me]. The right edge of the iPod means this: place the iPod face up, with the screen at the top and the wheel at the bottom. Then right is your right [note that it is your right, not the iPod's].

    Nebur -

  3. AkQWHgZJ65T2LQlF
    • Das iPod ist jetzt offen, aber trenne die beiden Teile noch nicht voneinander. Die Kopfhörerbuchse ist immer noch mit einem orangefarbenen Flachbandkabel am Logic Board angeschlossen.

    • Öffne das Gehäuse wie ein Buch mit der Kante des Dockanschlusses nach oben und lege die Rückseite neben die vordere Hälfte des iPod.

    This is the most fragile piece to work with in the whole process. Make sure you have some glasses or something and actually watch the individual pins while you reconnect the cable. I can't see so close, and didn't see what I was doing clearly. Consequently I broke the pins.

    Adam Logan -

    In my case the cable of of Headphone Jack was to short. so i Cent oben it like a book. instead i lifted the backside up until it gets hold by the cable. Then slowly move the backside to the right ( if the Headphone Jack is facing you). perhaps u have to tilt it a little so ist gets over the corner of the hdd. Now is the Plug in reach of a spudge from three sides. It make its also easier to reconnect the plug to the socket.

    Gyro -

    *Spelling fixes*

    In my case the cable of of Headphone Jack was to short. so i cant open it like a book. Instead i lifted the backside up until it gets hold by the cable. Then slowly move the backside to the right ( if the Hedphone Jack is facing you). perhaps u have to tilt it a little so it gets over the corner of the hdd. Now is the Plug in reach of a spudge from three sides. It make its also easier to reconnect the plug to the socket.

    Gyro -

    In meinen Fall war das Kabel leider zu kurz. stattdessen habe ich die Rückseite parallel angehoben, soweit das Kabel reichte. Dann die Rückseite vorsichtig nach rechts bewegen ( die Anschlüsse zeigen dabei zu einen hin). Unter Umständen muss man durch etwas Kippen der Rückseite über die Ecke der Festplatte bugsieren. der Stecker ist jetzt von drei Seiten aus erreichbar ( Spudge oder ähnliches). auch beim wieder einstöpseln kann man den Stecker besser /grader aufsetzen.

    Gyro -

  4. EyAcjoxd4hluPpXo
    • Benutze ein Plastikwerkzeug oder deine Fingernägel, um das orange Kopfhörerbuchsenkabel vorsichtig zu lösen. Achte darauf, am Stecker gerade nach oben zu ziehen, nicht am Kabel selbst.

    • Dieses Flachbandkabel ist sehr zerbrechlich. Wenn du den Akku austauschst, kannst du diesen Schritt überspringen und die Kopfhörerbuchse mit der Hauptplatine verbunden lassen.

    • Stütze und klebe das hintere Gehäuse gegen eine Schachtel, um es an Ort und Stelle zu halten. Achte bei der Arbeit darauf, das zerbrechliche Kabel der Kopfhörerbuchse nicht zu überdehnen.

    Be very careful disconnecting. In fact may want to leave connected. I "removed" the entire piece pins and all from the board and had to replace the logic board to fix. A $15 fix turned into $65. Happy to say got it fixed with a new board but this was a crucial step that cost me big time! Again leave headphone jack connected if at all possible!!

    tigers27408 -

    DO NOT remove the ribbon cable unless absolutely necessary. I also removed the black female plug from the logic board by mistake. However, in my case I was able to plug it back in and it still works (phew!). Lucky. I might have destroyed some soldering, I don't know ... but it works.

    Paul -

    At this point I damaged the motherboard irreversibly!!

    This guide should be modified. You should not attempt this step. Either you replace the battery without disconnecting the ribbon. Or if you really want more room, you unscrew the other little board from the the metal half of the case.

    Now I have to buy another ipod :-(

    Guillaume Barreau -

    It is worth noting that the connector for the iPod 4th gen and the iPod photo/color are NOT compatible. The 4th gen has only 10 pins, whereas the photo/color have 12 pins.

    Miles Raymond -

    I successfully installed the new battery without removing the ribbon cable.

    Michael Caputi -

    &&^&. Just ripped the circuit. Destroyed my iPod. Thanks for nothing. Other fixes do not have this step. Horribly disappointed. This needs to be deleted!

    Adam -

    Any idea if it can be resoldered?

    Adam -

    I followed the advice in the comments and skipped this step entirely. I did not remove this connecter. It made the remaining steps more difficult because I couldn’t lay the parts open flat, but I managed to do it by myself without removal.

    Lori Farthing -

    Mine had plenty of slack to lay open like a book without disconnecting. Check this first and don't mess with it if you don't need to. It's not necessary for changing a battery.

    SEAN Tanton -

    It is perfectly easy to remove the cable if you are careful and observe what you are attempting to disengage. The plug on the ribbon cable goes into the small black socket on the motherboard. Look sideways at the assembly and slide a thin spudger between the top of the socket and the small board that forms the end of the cable. Lever gently upwards to disengage the cable plug. That way you cannot exert force between the socket and the motherboard and you won’t damage the board.

    Pete Mackenzie -

    It's like a Lego I just popped it off sorry for those who broke it

    If u can leave it plugged

    James middleton -

    I snapped the cable. The comments scared me about disconnecting it so I left it connected, and then damaged it wrestling with the battery. Disconnecting it was easy and I should have done so in the first place.

    Ben -

  5. uE5NxmWOqqQrCD1Z
    • Nimm die Festplatte in eine Hand und löse das orangene Kabel vorsichtig mit der anderen Hand.

    • Wenn das Kabel nicht einfach abgeht, ist es vielleicht hilfreich, am Kabel zu wackeln.

    Note carefully how the orange ribbon cable is connected, as there are more holes than pins (at least on my hard drive) which makes it a little tricky to put it back correctly. Not that difficult, but I had to do it twice...

    osset -

    Just a curious question, since the hard drive is quite fragile, can it be replaced with a lets say: 8 GB fast CF card with built-in ATA?

    callmered -

    It can with an adapter. I picked one up on ebay for $2 from Hong Kong.

    Eric Rumsey -

    The Hard Drive can be replaced with a CompactFlash to Toshiba 1.8-inch IDE Hard Drive Converter and a CF Card. It works! http://www.dx.com/p/cf-to-toshiba-1-8-in...

    Lion -

Abschluss

Um dieses Gerät wieder zusammenzusetzen, folge dieser Anleitung in umgekehrter Reihenfolge.

iRobot

Mitglied seit: 25/09/09

0 Reputation

16 Kommentare

Just to let anyone wondering know: today I replaced the HDD with a 60 GB SSD - works like a charm. Maybe I can use this pod for another 8 years! :-)

Stefan -

Hi Stefan,

Iam very interested in replace my ipod photo HDD with a 60 GB SSD . What kind of SSD did you use?

Thank you

Luiz Bandeira

Brazil

Luiz Bandeira de Mello Braga -

What kind of SSD did you use? Did you use an adapter as well? Is it possible to install up to 480 GB SSD?

Heiko -

I have a 4th generation iPod color 20GB. I tried to replace the hard drive with KingSpec 32GB SSD it didn't work it had formatting issues. I then did what most people do and bought a compact flash (CF) to 50 pin 1.8” IDE adapter. The adapter I bought came with a case the adapter's circuit board is red and has a master/slave switch on it. The case looks like a hard drive so the padding and bumpers on the Ipod's original hard drive can be reused with ease. Some people have had success with the KingSpec's SSD it is a nice option because it doesn't need an adapter. I have seen talk on the internet about iPod logic board versions and drive compatibility so maybe this is why the SSD didn't work for me. The key to converting to solid state is having a good adapter with the right brand and model of CF. I used a Kingston Ultimate 32GB CF it was indicated on Tarkan's website to be compatible with all iPods. Everything works perfectly now after installing the CF card with adapter.

negichan -

Dropped in a 64GB SSD - this guide was excellent to get it all in place :-)

jonas -

I have a 30GB 4th-gen iPod with a color display. I had to replace both the battery and the hard drive (the battery had physically expanded when it died and crushed the hard drive). The hard drive I replaced with a Sandisk 32GB CF card mounted inside a CF to 1.8" IDE adapter from Micro SATA Cables. My computer recognized it immediately when it was plugged in and it is working fine.

mbta3247 -

I replaced my old hard drive with a Komputerbay 32GB High Speed Compact Flash and CF to 50 Pin 1.8 IDE Adapter with Case. Its amazing it works. I have brought new life back to a very beloved iPod.

amaximo -

Anybody had any luck getting more that 60gb ssd in the 4th gen? I see mentioned that there is a possible firmware limit of 60gb on this model. Im just going the new battery and CF upgrade route and wondering if its worth getting anything bigger than a 64gb card?

peter barker -

Yes. I just did it with a 2004 iPod Photo using a 128GB FAT32 formated SDXC Type II 600x card (Komputer Bay). That plugs into a Digigear Ultimate CF to SDXC adapter (SDXC Type II compatible), which plugs into a CD to IDE adapter (Generic). Needed a few chunks of cardboard cut and strategically hot glued (not that strategic really) to keep the significantly reduced sized "disk" from flopping around inside.

cls -

My iPod 4th generation 20 giga from 2005 is born again with a brand new 32 gb SSD (KingSpec) and Li-ion battery (iFixit). It works perfectly now and I hope it will last for another 10 years or so! I have to thank you very much because following your tutorial was actually very easy to replace both components...you're great! :)

Guendalina Marini -

I just completed replacing the battery as well as upgrading the hard drive to an "SSD" in my 40GB iPod Photo that I bought in 2004. The hard drive was the main issue as it just would not boot up any more and the drive would make lots of clicking noises as it tried spinning up, only to give me the Apple "frowny face-you've got a problem" screen. I created a SSD by using a generic IDE to Compact Flash adapter, a Compact Flash to SDXC Type II adapter and a 128GB SDXC card. I had to manually reformat the SDXC card to FAT32 (they are all formatted as NTSC by default) using a free partition manager (I've used both the MiniTool Partition Wizard and the AOMEI Partition Assistant) since Windows won't format FAT32 on anything over 32GB (don't know why). The battery was definitely toasted and had swelled so badly that I thought that the Select button in the middle of the scroll wheel was broken. Fixing the battery fixed the scroll wheel. I now have a 128GB SSD iPod Photo that seems to play forever :-)

cls -

Anyone know the song limit for this model?

Stephen Sherry -

Ansering my own Q.

++iPod++ ++4th Gen++

20 GB, 40 GB

5000, 10,000

++iPod++ ++U2 (4th Gen)++

20 GB

5000

++iPod++ ++photo (30)++

30 GB

7,500

++iPod++ ++photo (40/60)++

40 GB, 60 GB

10,000, 15,000

https://everymac.com/systems/apple/ipod/...

Stephen Sherry -

I replaced the HDD in a 4th gen click wheel and the OS will not reload. Any suggestions? The screen shows a folder with error logo and the address for apple ipod support. It connects to a mac but will not restore or update. It will however sync and allow music to be transferred but as the OS will not respond I cannot do anything with it.

Philip Swan -

I upgraded a 20GB model with a 128GB CF card. After reassembly the iPod started up fine - I had connected to iTunes to test it while the back was off in case of any assembly errors. As soon as it was plugged in the software restored the system automatically to Untitled iPod and I synced it, apparently successfully. However, when I reassembled it fully I got the folder error on the screen, as Philip Swan found above.

I rechecked all connections and all was OK but the iPod didn’t respond. So I reconnected to iTunes and forced a complete restore. This time once it had restored it said on the iPod screen that it needed to be disconnected and attached to a power-only supply. Once this was done a further progress bar appeared on the iPod screen and then the normal menu appeared. After that it appeared in iTunes as [myname]’s iPod, ready for syncing with playlists, which it did without a problem and the revamped machine is working fine again.

Pete Mackenzie -

I upgraded a 20GB model with a 128GB CF card. After reassembly the iPod started up fine - I had connected to iTunes to test it while the back was off in case of any assembly errors. As soon as it was plugged in the software restored the system automatically to Untitled iPod and I synced it, apparently successfully. However, when I reassembled it fully I got the folder error on the screen, as Philip Swan found above.

I rechecked all connections and all was OK but the iPod didn’t respond. So I reconnected to iTunes and forced a complete restore. This time once it had restored it said on the iPod screen that it needed to be disconnected and attached to a power-only supply. Once this was done a further progress bar appeared on the iPod screen and then the normal menu appeared. After that it appeared in iTunes as [myname]’s iPod, ready for syncing with playlists, which it did without a problem and the revamped machine is working fine again.

Pete Mackenzie -