iPod Classic Kopfhörerbuchse & Sperrtaste austauschen

Geschrieben von: iRobot
  • Kommentare: 131
iPod Classic Kopfhörerbuchse & Sperrtaste austauschen

Schwierigkeitsgrad

Sehr schwierig

Schritte

31

Zeitaufwand

45 Minuten - 2 Stunden

Einleitung

Hast du keinen Ton mehr? Dann tausche die Kopfhörerbuchse aus!

Kannst du deinen iPod nicht mehr entriegeln? Tausche die Sperrtaste aus, die Teil der Kopfhörerbuchsen-Baugruppe ist.

  1. EOPVpiWLPKgTEOOr

    • Das Design des neuen iPods erschwert die Demontage des Gerätes, da die Gefahr besteht, dabei wichtige Komponenten zu beschädigen. Aufgrund der metallenen Oberschale, der metallenen Rückwand und der 13 (!) Metallclips, die das Gehäuse zusammenhalten, ist diese iPod Demontage eine der schwierigsten.

    • Gehe mit Bedacht vor und sei dir darüber im Klaren, dass du deinen iPod während des Auswechselvorgangs beträchtlich beschädigen kannst. Außerdem ist es ratsam, ersatzweise einige Plastic Opening Tools bereitzulegen, da sie beim Öffnen des iPods leicht kaputt gehen.

    • Bevor du deinen iPod öffnest, vergewissere dich, dass sich der Hold-Schalter in der verriegelten Position befindet.

    Actually, there are only 11 metal clips. From the face side:

    On the top, only 1 clip centred 35mm from LHS. Avoid the first 30mm on the LHS, and the last 20mm on the RHS

    On the RHS there are 4 tabs centred at 20mm, 40mm, 65mm and 85mm from the top. Take great care to avoid the topmost 15mm

    On the LHS there are 4 tabs centred at 20mm, 40mm, 65mm and 85mm from the top

    On the bottom, there are 2 tabs, each one 10mm in from the edge.

    Also, I bought 2 spudger bars with the battery, and found them invaluable. The plastic ones supplied are nearly useless

    astutebs -

    Okay, I’m a noob, what’s an LHS…I assume it’s “Left..H…S" and RHS is “Right…H…S”, but please elucidate.

    Miguel FC -

    Left Hand Side

    Right Hand Side

    darren_chalk -

    take your time, be patient, it’s hard but you can do it. Watch other videos from youtube for battery replacement for your model to supplement this written procedure - particularly with regard to releasing the battery ribbon connector. I have the hardest one to crack open I and got it done and I’m 63 years old with bad hands…..my ipod classic now works good as new!!!!!!

    Donald Diebold -

  2. Xf2Hhubc5hJ5qZCi

    • Es ist eine Herausforderung, diesen iPod zu Öffnen. Lass dich nicht entmutigen, wenn du ein paar Anläufe dazu brauchst. Wichtig ist, auf den Winkel, in dem du die Spitze des Plastic Opening Tools ansetzt, zu achten. Idealerweise hälst du es so senkrecht wie möglich.

    • Setze ein Plastic Opening Tool in dem Spalt zwischen Vorder- und Rückseite des iPod an.

    I think this must be a 5th gen ipod class and the gap is larger. I have a 6th gen ipod classic, the plastic open tool can't insert in!

    The battery(thick) I bought from ifixit has problem: the cable is not same length as the original one. Be carefully.

    linhaiyxs -

    AWESOME!!!! Couldn't b happier,1 hour and 10 mins to switch out headphone jack (had music through one speaker) and battery since I had it open. Really only had to use plastic spudger,metal spudger and 1.5 inch puddy knife. Plastic separators didn't really help,for 3 bucks I'm not complaining. Already had a 00 screwdriver. All told,$43.00 for parts and I have my 120 gig iPod back.

    David Fizur -

    Before starting to pry open the case, look closely at the pictures in steps 21 and 23 to better understand the clips to be released and the location of the clips. It will make the probing with the spudger more effective.

    Jim Athay -

    Don’t waste time here…just use the metal spudger.

    Hwyman -

    what jim says. that pic of the clips should be up here so you can visualise what you’re trying to do, before you trash the rails.

    duncan rmi -

    I agree with Hwyman. I spent quite a bit of time trying to open the case with the plastic opening tools but could never get it into the joint. Then I went tried the iFixit Jimmy tool along with the metal spudger for the rest of the steps. It made is so much easier. I completed the entire job within an hour.

    Bruce Baumgart -

    I used a watch back removing tool, it is thinner and made of metal and opening my 5th generation classic iPod was a cinch …. really ….. and I am usually quite clutzy. I inserted it and moved it slightly to the left very gently to separate the back and front and those clips just popped open.

    It must have been okay because it all popped back together again after I replaced the battery. No issues with bent seam, back or anything I had read here.

    Thank you original poster, these instructions were great.

    Well Goodness Me -

    I also ended up putting a small piece of electrical tape over the Hold switch as I kept bumping it with my fingers. That worked really well but it did leave a residue that I then needed to clean up with isopropyl alcohol afterwards.

    Hannah Tanquary -

    What happens if you do it without the hold button switched? Because I just did that.

    Candice Kush -

  3. P5NwZ4jP1sYo4UTO

    • Führe ein anderes Plastic Opening Tool in den Spalt zwischen der Vorder- und der Rückseite des iPods ein, wobei du mindestens 4 cm Platz zwischen den beiden Werkzeugen lässt.

    Stick yer dick in. Yer gonna f it up folks

    doug -

  4. U6UpLStuFxclrQse

    • Führe einen Spachtel schräg von oben etwa 3 mm weit in den Spalt zwischen den beiden Plastic Opening Tools ein.

    • Auf der Innenseite des hinteren Gehäuses verlaufen dünne Metallschienen. Sei deswegen sehr vorsichtig, wenn du den Spachtel ansetzt.

    • Sobald du die Clips mithilfe des Spachtels gelöst hast, schwenke den Spachtel bis er senkrecht zum Gehäuse steht und "schlängle" ihn in kleinen Hin- und Herbewegungen vorsichtig in die Lücke zwischen den Opening Tools.

    The plastic tools are fine for holding the tabs open or for prying open partially open sides, but you're much better off using the metal spudger to open em

    parthmukeshbhatt -

    I couldn't agree more about the plastic opening tools! The metal spudger worked loads better when it came to actually opening the device. Yes, the metal tool's tip was much sharper than the plastic (and hence, easier to cut your fingers on if your grip slips) but it was substantially more effective in the end. :)

    Kimberly Valdovinos -

    At my local hardware store they offer stiff and flexible putty knives - which kind is better for this purpose?

    anonymous 4032 -

    Don’t do this! The putty knife is too wide and will damage the inside of the case. You can see in the photo for step 19 how the metal clip rail has been bent out of shape. You need to use a narrower tool the will fit between the protrusions on the clip rail (which is where the clips actually are). This video shows a better, albeit more dangerous, method using an x-acto knife. I used the method shown in the video but with a #18 chisel blade on the x-acto knife. With the iPod on its back, I inserted the blade with the beveled side down. Then I pried the side out slightly and peeked through the crack with a flashlight to make sure that the blade was positioned between the protrusions, readjusting as necessary. I used multiple knives to prevent released clips from reengaging. Use this technique at your own risk, and wear adequate hand and eye protection as the blades are very sharp and somewhat brittle.

    Robert Watkins -

    I used the iFixit Jimmy instead of a putty knife. I also watched the x-acto knife video that Robert Watkins linked to in order to find where the clips are located. I slid the Jimmy into those locations until the tool bottomed out and then move on. I only used the metal spudger (to initially open a gap), the Jimmy (to open the clips), and occasionally a plastic spudger (to hold open gaps while I relocated the metal tools to a new section). Pro tip: Use the Jimmy as a letter opener after you fix your iPod.

    Hwyman -

    I used two small putty knives manufactured by a company called Albion Engineering. They make caulk spatulas in multiple sizes. Took me less than 2 minutes to get the back cover off, with no damage to the sides or clips. And - it was my first time! Highly recommend these, especially if you are in the business.

    Ronald Zanarotti -

  5. R2DvwfB3dvQbK3re

    • Drücke mit deinen Fingern unterhalb des Spachtels gegen das hintere Gehäuse, um zu vermeiden, dass es sich allzu sehr verformt. Biege den Spachtel langsam, um so den Großteil der Metallhäkchen auf dieser Seite des iPods zu trennen.

    • Die Theorie hinter dieser Methode: Anstatt eine Verformung des hinteren Gehäuses ganz zu vermeiden, soll die Biegung auf ein Mindestmaß beschränkt werden, was erlaubt, es später wieder zurecht zu biegen. Deshalb sollte jede Verformung den Rand weiter vom hinteren Gehäuse wegbewegen. Mit dieser Methode können viele der Clips entfernt werden.

    I disagree with the “theory” here. You don’t have to bend the case at all. Watch the x-acto blade video on youtube (it’s linked above in the Step 4 comments). The idea is to slide whatever wide flat tool (putty knife, x-acto blade, iFixit Jimmy, etc…) in between the clip and the body. Setting the iPod flat on the table instead of holding it will help and you won’t cut yourself if a tool slips out. As you disengage clips, you will find that the body will start coming out on it’s own without having to flex your wide tool and bending the case in the process.

    Hwyman -

  6. Aus3DVJwhU2Oi2XH

    • Löse den Spachtel aus dem iPod und führe ihn etwas näher an der Ecke des iPods mit denselben kleinen Hin- und Herbewegungen wieder ein.

    • Wenn irgend möglich, vermeide es den hinteren Gehäuseteil in den Eckbereichen zu verformen.

  7. Zh61HMJTVf6GOnJL

    • Setze mit einem Plastic Opening Tool an der Spalte zwischen Vorder- und Rückseite zwischen dem Hold-Schalter und der Kopfhörerbuchse an.

    • Du kannst auch den Spachtel verwenden, um eine noch größere Lücke für das Plastic Opening Tool zu schaffen, aber achte darauf, dass du die Eckbereiche am hinteren Gehäuse nicht verformst.

    The clip holding this part of the iPod together is different from the others around the iPod and you might want to keep the spudger in place until you've opened the iPod completely.

    Karsten -

    This is how I broke my whole entire screen.

    Joe Kenny -

  8. lQnXSnIqFFHYFUVX

    • Setze in der Mitte der oberen Kante mit einem Metall-Spudger in der Lücke, die durch das Plastic Opening Tool entstanden ist, an.

    • Es kann leicht eine beträchtliche Beule im hinteren Gehäuse entstehen, die schwierig zu reparieren ist. Wenn du das Häkchen freihebelst versuche mit dem Metall-Spudger nach innen zu schwenken, anstatt das Außengehäuse nach außen zu biegen.

    • Löse mit dem Metall-Spudger den einzelnen Clip oben am iPod.

    This was the most difficult step in opening for me. Place the device on a hard surface and press with increasing force until you feel the clip push down and out of the way.

    joe -

  9. MoDaS4mX4mn1WvSB

    • Setze mit dem Opening Tool bei der anderen oberen Ecke in der Spalte zwischen Vorder- und Rückseite des iPods an.

  10. qBJKen3ZbYTv4CP4

    • Führe auch auf der anderen Seite der Ecke ein Plastic Opening Tool in die Lücke zwischen Vorder- und Hinterteil des iPods ein.

    • Um eine ausreichend große Lücke zu erhalten, kann es hilfreich sein, das obere Plastic Opening Tool etwas anzuwinkeln.

  11. V3XBmgJqAtYTq6pp

    • Entferne das Plastic Opening Tool von der oberen Ecke und führe es in die entstandene Lücke zwischen Vorder- und Rückseite des Panels ein, wobei du mindestens 4 cm Platz zwischen den beiden Werkzeugen lassen solltest (wie auf der anderen Seite).

  12. QcQN5bms11KoOrWZ

    • Führe einen Spachtel schräg von oben etwa 3 mm weit in den Spalt zwischen den beiden Plastic Opening Tools ein.

    • Auch hier verlaufen auf der Innenseite des hinteren Gehäuses dünne Metallschienen. Sei deswegen sehr vorsichtig, wenn du den Spachtel ansetzt.

    • Sobald du die Clips mithilfe des Spachtels gelöst hast, schwenke den Spachtel bis er senkrecht zum Gehäuse steht und "schlängle" ihn in kleinen Hin- und Herbewegungen vorsichtig in die Lücke zwischen den Opening Tools.

    • Drücke mit deinen Fingern unterhalb des Spachtels gegen das hintere Gehäuse, um zu vermeiden, dass es sich allzu sehr verformt. Biege den Spachtel langsam, um so den Großteil der Metallhäkchen auf dieser Seite des iPods zu trennen.

  13. YSoJRkQKe5VE5dNP

    • Die Metall-Clips nahe der Ecken sind berüchtigt dafür, dass sie besonders fest am Front Panel sitzen. Es ist dennoch notwendig sie zu lösen, um den iPod zu öffnen.

    • Setze vorsichtig mit einem Metall-Spudger im Bereich der störrischen Metall-Clips an.

  14. 5EZ1hnqBvkYuPIUy

    • Drücke den Metall-Spudger nach unten, so dass er soweit wie möglich im hinteren Gehäuse steckt.

  15. UKcbQL5sWoTlMTW2

    • Fange vorsichtig an, den Clip vom Front Panel zu lockern.

    • Es kann leicht passieren, dass eine beträchtliche Beule im hinteren Gehäuse entsteht, die schwierig zu reparieren ist. Wenn du das Häkchen abhebelst, versuche mit dem Metall-Spudger nach innen zu schwenken, anstatt das Außengehäuse nach außen zu biegen.

    What can i do if unintentionally removed the retaining flap connector from the logic board?

    molina6711 -

  16. IV6xKXYtN1a5InEr

    • Drücke das Front Panel mit einem Metall-Spudger weiter nach oben, bis sich die Clips lösen.

    Συνεχίστε να πιέζετε προς τα επάνω το μπροστινό πάνελ με το spudger μέταλλο έως ότου ελευθερωθεί το μεταλλικό κλιπ.

    ermiskaspis -

    I couldn't have said it better.

    mike -

  17. eJyKsFumyvX3RE2P

    • Zwei Flachkabel verbinden das hintere Gehäuse mit dem Vorderteil. Sei bei den folgenden Schritten vorsichtig, dass du diese Kabel nicht beschädigst.

    • Halte das Front Panel mit einer Hand und den hinteren Gehäuseteil mit der anderen Hand.

    • Hole einmal tief Luft!

    • Trenne die verbleibenden Clips vorsichtig (VORSICHTIG) voneinander, indem du den vorderen und hinteren Gehäuseteil auseinander bewegst (stell dir vor, die Unterkante des iPods ist eine Drehachse) und gebe darauf acht, die beiden Flachbandkabel nicht zu beschädigen.

  18. kMEETwSmQLWep3py

    • Öffne die Halteklappe über dem Verbindungskabel mit einem Spudger.

    • Dieses Kläppchen braucht nur 2mm weit geöffnet werden. Der Verbinder ist sehr empfindlich und zu viel Kraft kann ihn von der Platine lösen.

    • Entferne das orangene Flachbandkabel des Akkus aus seinem Anschluss.

    Be careful here. I screwed up and ruined the iPod's motherboard when trying to reconnect the battery cable.

    greekman07 -

    very easy tear off battery connection from the logic board,very careful when open that plastic lock.

    andraskiss -

    Be EXTREMELY careful not to lift too far up and remove the whole piece from the motherboard. You'll never get the pins to line up correctly again without breaking the solder joints and ruining the motherboard if you do. iFixit failed.

    bcook -

    totally screwed up, pulled out the whole

    agnesmadness -

    the connector came out with the battery cable ,almost lost it. I did get it back in though.

    elsprato13 -

    Same thing happened to me. How did you get it back in? Pkease....

    molina6711 -

    Yeah, this battery connector is extremely fragile if you pry too hard you will lift the whole connector plastic off the board. A really, really bad design from Apple having that type of connector like that. The white plastic part is not secure at all to the logic board so when you pry the tab up, you may lift the whole thing up.

    rgarjr -

    Had no problem disconnecting the cable, I used a nylon spudger to press the connector down while using a plastic pry tool to pull the cable up, be patient, it might take time.

    Tip for reassemble: Use a tweezer to reinsert the cable, again, it might take time.

    Luis Soto -

    ifixit fail. Be VERY careful pulling up that lever or the whole connector will pop right the !&&* out and you will never, never, NEVER get that sucker back in. Time to buy a new one, %#*!^@.

    Jeff White -

    Just poke this latch up from behind. It's a little scary, but it literally just popped straight up for me.

    Gordon Krupsky -

    You MUST put the warning in the instructions not to pull out the connector. Everything worked perfectly, seriously perfectly, until I went to put the battery cable back in and realized I had popped the connector out and it pulled all of the metal prongs out. Without a way to reconnect metal to metal, this basically just killed my ipod. It's trash now. Such a disappointment. Will not be recommending this site until you fix this one instruction.

    djbagwell -

    Took me a long time to figure it out. The retainer literally pulls up ... straight up, not hinged. The retainer is the (at leeast on mine) grey thingy with a rounded top. I finally got the courage to gently pry it up (2 mm = 1 smidgen) and tthe connector pulled/fell out. Gods know if I'll ever get it back.

    Larry Osborne -

    I pulled the connector off the motherboard, trying my best to be gentle. The instructions need to be more specific about what to pull and in what direction. The spudger wouldn't grip onto anything and I tried to rock the retainer out, not sure which way it needed to go before releasing. Then, voila, the whole thing came off. That's the end of life for my iPod classic, which I've had since 2008.

    David Harbin -

    Is there a way to reconnect? Does it have to be re-soldered?

    Blake -

    1 use a fine tool to lift the brown tab of the latch vertically up

    2 use tweezers to grip the ribbon along its horizontal run then lift out. Don’t grip the last section that bends into the motherboard connector or you might short circuit the battery conductors, which are not insulated for the last 12mm or so

    3 make sure the latch is fully up when you want to connect the ribbon of the new battery, as it falls down very easily and stops the new battery ribbon entering the connector

    anonymous 2502 -

    I released the battery first (with the spudger), which enable the whole case to be butterflied. Then, using a splinter probe with a slight hook lifted the retaining clip, and removed the existing battery lead. Then using a very fine tweezers inserted the new battery cable, and pushed the retaining clip back into place, while holding the cable with the tweezers. All good.

    astutebs -

    Jesus is there a way to buy the brown clip?? It was dangling and I just popped it out of the socket!! When I tried to put that back in, it just broke its leg.. I need help guys! The motherboard is safe though.

    Sizun Cho -

    Late answer by myself. There ARE brown clips available in Aliexpress. I bought them!

    Sizun Cho -

    Once you bought the connector how did you managed to put it back in? Please!!!!!

    molina6711 -

    How can I order the connector in Aliexpress? How do you know you are buying the right thing?

    molina6711 -

    It would be extremely helpful if we had a better closeup of these parts. It seems the color of these parts is different from model to model. Maybe even from MB to MB. Getting the cover off was easy. But now I have no idea what I am looking at.

    Ronald Zanarotti -

    Definitely need to hold the retainer in place while you pull the ribbon. Worked like a charm!

    Ronald Zanarotti -

    1. Looking directly down on the iPod, use a small tool, apply a very light force on the back of the brown retainer pushing toward the front of the iPod.

    2. Looking directly down on the iPod, use a small tweezers to apply a very light force to grasp the battery cord as close to the brown retainer as you feel comfortable, Try not to touch the brown retainer. While still holding the tweezers, use another very light force to lift the battery cord end toward the back of the iPod.

    (I skipped to step 24 because none of my tabs were bent. Also, I was very careful with the headphone cable/keep the two halves together. )

    zeek stahl -

    List the caution first before the step. This is crucial and I thought I did it myself. Turned out I just didn't put it back together correctly and didn't get the battery connected. When I opened it up the second time the battery cable was just dangling. Need to make sure the connection is snapped back down and give a slight tug on battery cable with plastic spudger.

    SEAN Tanton -

    Yup, I’ve joined the flock of people who pulled the whole connector out. I was trying my hardest to reassemble without breaking anything and thought something needed to be flipped down. LESSON LEARNED: The retainer hinge pops up and down VERTICALLY, like toast in a toaster. If the black head and white tongue are flush at rest, it’s closed. Hook the black around the convex side, then lift it up. When open, the black part is noticeably taller.

    Ally Gator -

    Yep. pulled the whole thing apart. the explanation and the picture are not clear enough. they should add a picture where the cable is pulled to show that you don’t want to pull the whole thing

    Syavin Eka -

    Happened to me as well but not because of iFixit’s guide, I followed a Youtube tutorial that didn’t mention this could happen. Anyways, just leaving a comment here to say that it’s possible to reconnect the connector to the motherboard (assuming it’s not damaged beyond repair) as long as you know how to solder stuff (and have the tools for it). Otherwise taking your iPod to a repair shop might be your only option (other than throwing it away but please consider not doing that if the iPod can be fixed, we have enough e-waste already).

    Héctor Cabrera -

    The best way is to pull the battery flat cable alone, and insert it after done.

    gperiusdaufenbach -

    What can i do if unintentionally removed the retaining flap connector from the logic board?

    molina6711 -

    What can i do if unintentionally removed the retaining flap connector from the logic board?

    molina6711 -

    GRRRRR. make the instruction HOW TO REMOVE IT SAFELY, not just "be careful" !!!!

    Darcy Twarog -

  19. ksHuAT13tY4aXEC2

    • Lege das hintere Gehäuse neben dem iPod ab, wobei du darauf achten solltest, das orangene Ohrhörer-Lautsprecher Kabel nicht zu überdehnen.

    Be careful not to damage the hold switch ribbon there...

    Karsten -

  20. jQUWPhQGbL3NcGhR

    • Hebe die Festplatte mit einer Hand an, so dass das Flachbandkabel des Ohrhörer-Lautsprechers darunter zugänglich ist.

    • Klappe die Kunststofflasche, die das Ohrhörer-Lautsprecher Kabel in Position hält, mit einem Spudger um. Die Lasche dreht sich um 90 Grad nach oben und gibt so das Flachbandkabel frei.

    • Hole das orangene Ohrhörer-Lautsprecher Kabel aus seinem Anschluss.

    • Das hintere Gehäuse ist nun losgelöst.

    I don't know if this step is totally necessary. If its not feel free to skip it just be careful to avoid tearing the ribbon.

    kevman12 -

    I recommend not doing this. I couldn't figure out how to reattach and broke the jack in process. There is no need to do this step, just be careful not to strain this connector.

    JOSHUAEGILLESPI -

    This is probably the most difficult part because the jack is so tiny and it's not obvious that it contains a "flip up" retainer. A very difficult step.

    robertdraznik -

    How do I get that little 90° clip to stay back down with the new ribbon in it

    Nar -

    How do I get the little clip to stay down holds the year Jack ribbon to the motherboard

    Nar -

    I just pulled. The thing flipped up automaticly 90° degrees.

    tellmiger -

    This step (and next few “repair” steps) is not worth doing unless you mangle the case when you pry it open. If it doesn’t look all bent up, leave this ribbon attached and skip ahead.

    Hwyman -

    I detached the cable by flipping the clip as described.

    Attaching the cable again was no problem using the plastic spudger to turn the clip back to its ‘close position’.

    Georg -

  21. ZqokKYnhxsBlHtmk

    • Nun müssen wir den Schaden beheben, der im Verlaufe der letzten Schritte entstanden ist. Es ist wahrscheinlich, dass mindestens einer der Metallclips im hinteren Gehäuseteil nach oben gebogen wurde. Die Clips müssen alle nach unten gebogen sein, bevor das hintere Gehäuseteil wieder aufgesetzt wird.

    Right, I thought the way that this was phrased is a tad confusing. Basically, once you've separated the front and back panel, insure all the prong-like-clips around the sides of the back panel are all down - not sticking up after opening the ipod. I skipped the step because it was confusingly put. I ended up successfully swapping the battery, however when I went to put the ipod panels back together, they wouldn't clip back properly. This made it very fiddly. Anyway, hope that helps.

    Joe Parkes -

    Please post a picture of what they are supposed to look like? I think you mean bent outward.

    Jason Bidwell -

  22. WDEgpxbtNAi3NXWE

    • Drücke mit der breiteren, flachen Seite eines Metall-Spudgers den Clip nach unten und achte dabei darauf, dass du dabei nicht die dünne Metallschiene vom hinteren Gehäuseteil beschädigst. Alternativ kann auch eine Zange verwendet werden, um das Risiko auszurutschen und dabei den Ohrhörer-Lautsprecher zu beschädigen, zu minimieren.

    • Achte darauf, dass du den Ohrhörer-Lautsprecher nicht beschädigst, während du die Clips verformst!

  23. tYBTkePhQYKJqUqv

    • Lege den hinteren Gehäuseteil auf die Seite auf einer sauberen, harten Unterlage. Übe vorsichtig, aber stetig Druck aus, bis der Rand wieder in der ursprünglichen Position und Form ist.

    • Es kann notwendig sein, diesen Schritt mehrere Male zu wiederholen, um den Rand bestmöglich wieder in Form zu bringen. Es ist besser die Ränder des Gehäuses zu weit einzudrücken als zu wenig, denn durch das Einsetzen des Front Panels wird das hintere Gehäuse automatisch wieder richtig ausgerichtet.

    • Jetzt, wo der hintere Gehäuseteil wieder in Form ist, kann es mit der iPod Reparatur weitergehen.

    My iPod wasn’t closing very well, then I noticed that I didn’t do this. Thanks!

    TheYootz Media Group -

    I ended up used a set of squeeze clamps with soft rubber jaws to very carefully apply pressure to either side of the case and top and bottom all around the perimeter in order to square it back up.

    Hannah Tanquary -

  24. hMRrgDMkouvUGWsj
    hMRrgDMkouvUGWsj
    s2tTvXQMKXXIGO3I

    • Der Akku ist mit Kleber am hinteren Gehäuse befestigt. Achte darauf, die orangenen Flachbandkabel des Ohrhörer-Lautsprechers bzw. des Hold-Buttons nicht zu beschädigen, wenn du den Akku entfernst.

    • Lupfe den Akku mit dem angebrachten orangenen Kabel mithilfe einem Spudger nach oben und aus dem iPod heraus. Wenn du einen 160 GB iPod hast, ist der Akku dicker als der auf dem Bild.

    • Wenn der Akku sich nicht leicht entfernen lässt, dann kannst du die Rückseite des iPods mit einem Haartrockner oder einem Heißluftgebläse erwärmen, damit der Kleber des Akkus aufweicht. Sei vorsichtig und überhitze den Akku nicht.

    Just wanted to say THANK YOU to whoever made this tutorial!! Kinda unclear in some areas, but I got it! Thanks so much!!!

    shaunlovesyou -

    I just want to say that with out this tutorial I could never have taken my iPod apart the biggest help was the addition of the putty knife. It took about 30min cause I took it slow. My iPod is charging and seems to be working thank you

    PMM -

    dont do this, as u see, any one can edit it, it's like wikipedia, not reliable.

    sophia -

    I do this and my ipod works now!

    loquetraoul -

    Thanks for this. It worked for me without any hitches. Your presentation, products and packaging are all first rate.

    tripplc -

    All very easy to do. Ive just "frankensteined" a 100Gb classic and working all fine. Very simple and clear instructions.

    Been using iFixit for almost 10 years in my data recovery company and always been informative in getting Macs opened easily and with great results

    michael earl -

    Within the first minute, I pushed a plastic opener through the flesh of my opposite index finger. Within the second minute I peeled back about 3/16" of my index finger nail. Within the third minute I broke the tips off of first one and then the other of the supplied plastic openers. On the fourth minute, I threw the entire kit -- brand new replacement battery included -- in the trash. Thanks for absolutely nothing!! Ken Queale

    K Queale -

    Sounds like you're just clumsy...

    bjoernskytte -

    Absolute waste of money. I have been working on it for an hour and half. Blue tools wore out the first 1/2hour

    Dave Sherman -

    My hold button ribbon was in the battery glue and tore when I pried the battery loose. I 'm going to try to replace that part with luck that will be all I have to do.

    elsprato13 -

    I just did the exact same thing. In retrospect, it strikes me that if I would’ve warmed the iPod’s back with a hair dryer to soften the glue holding the battery, this would’ve been a lot easier. Learn from my mistakes people. :-)

    Greg Rankin -

    There are several hard tasks in this process and this step was hard for me. Took me a while to detach the battery without damaging the cables. But with some patience I succeeded.

    Great guide, by the way.

    Luis Soto -

    I have been trying unsuccessfully to get into my ipod to replace the duff battery for a long while. Now, armed with your instructions and the right tools I have done it! (not without considerable frustration with those pesky clips I might add). The plastic spudgers are useless by the way. It took a while to work out how to release the battery ribbon cable and larger picture of the clip action would help. I too found the battery glued to the ribbon cable beneath it. Perseverance, patience and a steady handed are a must for this one. Well done and thank you!

    Colin Kaye -

    I did it all, plugged into the charger for 10 hours and it shows charging… I unplugged it and is dead.

    Nora Saba -

    Battery replaced. MB spooled up when I plugged the unit in. Now waiting for it to charge. This process was actually pretty easy with the help of this tutorial. A lot easier than an iPad repair with all the glue. No way could I have done it without the help. So far: every iFixit! repair I have done has been a success. Thanks!

    Ronald Zanarotti -

    When finish replace battery, need to restore?

    TOAT POOPONG -

    No you do not

    Bailey Halifax -

    The instructions were great! I completed the repair with an hour. I can’t ay enough about the parts, tools, and repair guides from iFixIt. I recently replaced my hard drive with an SSD drive on my iMac and the repair guide for that was spot on as well. Thank you, iFixIt!

    Bruce Baumgart -

    Any luck fixing the hold button ribbon Greg? Mine ripped too.

    Lachlan Griffin -

  25. EEkjIs4QmA2tUHLQ

    • Halte mit einer Hand die orangenen Flachbandkabel fest und ziehe mit der anderen Hand das schwarze Klebeband ab, mit dem die Kabel am Rückpanel befestigt sind.

    I saw some YouTube videos where they were able to reuse the black tape on the new backplate, so I took some time to carefully remove it, without success. However, since I was replacing my iPod 7th Gen with a 240GB disk (thicker than the original), the new thicker back plate did not need the tape since the cables are separated form the case.

    Luis Soto -

  26. TiSoErFARJnHuHxL

    • Entferne die beiden schwarzen Kreuzschlitzschrauben, mit denen die Kopfhörerbuchse am Rückpanel befestigt ist.

    • Die sind wirklich KLEIN! Achte darauf, einen Kreuzschlitzschraubendreher #00 zur Hand zu haben.

    One tip when reassembling. These screws are very tiny and difficult to handle even with magnetized drivers, so I used the PH000 tip of the iFixIt kit to pick the screws and screw the first turns. Then switch to a PH00 to tighten them. Actually, using a PH00 of a cheaper set I bought to open the iPod, worked better since the length of the screwdriver was shorter than the case.

    Luis Soto -

    You can also use a Phillips 000 for these. I also accidentally picked up the wrong screwdriver and got one out with a Phillips 0, but I think there's a definite risk of stripping your screws if you're not careful with this one.

    Gordon Krupsky -

    When re-assembling, if you dip the tip of the screwdriver a couple of mm into a pot of vaseline, then place the screw onto the tip, it will hold the screw nicely in place until you tighten the screw (ie it will stick to the tip without dropping off)

    anonymous 2502 -

  27. RyPtuZxeSDRK6jBC

    • Entferne die beiden folgenden Schrauben:

    • Eine schwarze Kreuzschlitzschraube, mit der der Sperrschalter in der Nähe der Ecke des iPods befestigt ist.

    • Eine silberfarbene Kreuzschlitzschraube, mit der der Sperrschalter auf der anderen Seite befestigt ist.

  28. PayLWyY2fLBZdhFN

    • Hebe den Sperrschalter aus seiner Fassung im Rückpanel heraus. Entferne den Sperrschalter jetzt noch nicht ganz, da er am gleichen Kabel wie die Kopfhörerbuchse angeschlossen ist.

  29. vLTILT2Y6lG2Zo1c

    • Schiebe die Kopfhörerbuchse aus ihrer Fassung im Rückpanel heraus.

    • Hebe die Einheit aus Kopfhörerbuchse und Sperrschalter aus dem iPod heraus.

  30. UMVxH6mrTIoIE3NI
    UMVxH6mrTIoIE3NI
    dtTxWffLtmJB1Noj

    • Wenn du nur das Rückpanel ausbauen willst, dann kannst du die Schritte 30 und 31 überspringen.

    • Wenn deine Ersatzkopfhörerbuchse den weißen Plastiksperrschalter einschließt, dann brauchst du nur die Kopfhörerbuchse zu tauschen. Beim Einbau der Sperrschaltereinheit musst du auf die Position des Führungsstifts nahe des Lochs der silbernen Schraube achten. Konzentriere dich darauf, dann fällt der Rest an seinen Platz.

    • Wenn beim Zusammenbau alles verschraubt ist, darfst du nicht vergessen die Schutzfolie von der Kontaktfläche an der Buchse abzuziehen.

    • Wenn dein Ersatzteil den Plastiksperrschalter nicht enthält, dann folge den nächsten Schritten. Hier wird der gezeigt, wie du den Plastiksperrschalter auf deine neue Kopfhörerbuchse übertragen kannst.

    • Entferne die einzelne Kreuzschlitzschraube gleich neben dem Sperrschalter.

    • Hebe den Kunstoffteil des Sperrschalters weg vom orangenen Flachbandkabel.

    • Achte beim Zusammenbau des Schalters darauf, dass die schwarze Kerbe in den grauen Schieber eingepasst ist. (Siehe Bild 2)

  31. jl6amnYT3GCaPx1H

    • Löse das orangene Flachbandkabel mit dem daran angeschlossenen Sperrschalter vorsichtig mit einem kleinen Plastiköffnungswerkzeug von der Metallhalterung ab.

    • Achte beim Einbau des Ersatzsperrschalters darauf, dass die kleinen Stifte auf der Rückseite des Schalters in die beiden Löcher der Metallhalterung hineinpassen.

Abschluss

Bevor du das Gehäuse zuschnappen lässt, solltest du erst alle Funktionen überprüfen.

Um dein Gerät wieder zusammenzusetzen, folge den Schritten in umgekehrter Reihenfolge.

Tinte & Feder

iRobot

Mitglied seit: 25/09/09

0 Reputation

37 Kommentare

This worked a charm for me! If you take it slow and steady, and keep all the warnings in mind, you shouldn't have too much trouble :)

myungtrucci -

my battery clip came out but i connected the cable to it and pushed it back on no problem

just wanted to say a big thank you to the guys/girls at ifixit for the guide my ipod classic is working better than ever!!!

patrick -

where do you buy new headphone jack?

alxg000 -

The headphone jack is part of an assembly, on a cable with the hold switch. We sell this assembly for thin iPod classics (80, 120, or 160 GB) here, and for the thick (160 GB) variety here.

Andrew Optimus Goldheart -

check this guy I used dollar store xacto blades you got to be careful you can easily cut yourself but this method wont damage the clips or anything,

http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=end...

Nicolas -

works out perfectly for me! 3.5 hours, a lot (A LOT) of patience and attention. Didn't break or bend anything; now my ipod is working again. I'm very happy!

just a note: everything has to be done slowly and with no distraction. Take your time and deep breaths

kia -

Excellent, my ipod is now working like new, after a year without it when a faulty headphone get broke inside it.

maxevg -

This is the third time I've used one of Ifixit's guides and the third time I have been successful

in fixing one of my faulty Apple products. HUGE THANKS for having this forum and offering help that would otherwise cost far much more! Power to the people and those who help each other to help themselves!

anthonyzmc -

Yes this guide does work. The plastic tools are pretty useless. They break. I used a paint scraper and small flat head screw drivers. Top tip is to test the headphones before you re-close it. I did this and found that the left headphone was not working. I found the problem was the connection at step 20. The lead is pre-bent to fit snug. Once I taped it flush to the wall of the case I had both speakers working. To find out how to re-close the ipod watch this video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dmEVVLSR....

mike -

Did it successfully!! Just be patient and you need to be to rough to break anything, because I have big hands and is a little difficult to work with those little parts. But is no that hard, the harder steps were the ones to separate the front face from the rear face.

Nasim -

I was able to follow this tutorial without too many issues. The problem is that, once it was apart and "repaired," there weren't really any instructions on reassembly. "Follow these steps in reverse order" doesn't quite seem sufficient. In trying to reattach the ribbons, the orange battery ribbon came unattached, and the pictures aren't enough to make it clear where it should go. Any suggestions?

Chris Massa -

Hi ! Mine was almost impossible to open but once I manage to get in everything worked very well. Thank you ifixit for transforming a 350 CHF reparation into a 40$ one you guys rocks. (only thing is that all the border of the ipod now look like he fell from a plane but he works well so ....)

razoff -

apart for some issues with the connector on the headphone jack (it was bent and therefore caused distorted sound) all went fine. Lifesaver. Thanks Ifixit!

hambachw -

i just replaced mine and still no audio and no hold

i did everything acording to what i watch online like this tutorial is there a bug?

franciscotanoeiro91412 -

how do you know if its a thick or thin ipod? and does it matter

Stephen LaScola -

You're better off with the metal spudger when taking out the battery. My plastic one broke while attempting to remove it, however it came right out once used the metal one

johnny scanlon -

Very straightforward process when you follow the instructions carefully. Thanks for the step-by-step, as well as the quick shipping of the parts.

Joel Davidson -

I'm just wondering how to decipher/ID my iPod for the thick and thin headphone jack/switch part options that are available to purchase. My iPod looks like the one in the image, but I'm uncertain which of those two choices (thick) or (thin) that would be. Anyone have any ideas for me? Thank you much for any help

M Liggett -

Hi, you need to check the serial number in this website (http://www.everymac.com/ultimate-mac-loo...), all you need to do is copy the serial number and it will tell you which iPod Classic you have. Then, just go to ebay and type "iPod Classic (whatever gen it is) headphone jack" and you'll be good to go!

alvaricoca9686 -

Since you guys seem to rarely have any of the parts in stock, is this headphone jack and switch the right kind? https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00QSI...

Sara French -

Thanks for a nice and clear guide! Had it done in about 45 minutes. A set of little craft knives had the case off straight away with no clips bent :)

aggrobmxer -

Hi everyone ! I changed the jack connector and the hold button both with the rear panel (because i have a second broken iPod classic) and after that an error display on the screen. If someone have same problem and probably an issu to fix that i'm interesting ! Thanks a lot for this tutorial !

paulgoedertax -

Well I successfully change the battery and my iPod classic but I don't think I plugged the headphone jack in properly so I will need to go back in tomorrow and figure that out. I have no volume through my headphones.

sanibelsandflee1 -

I did a great job replacing my Battery. A few little marks from the putty knife i used but managed to just file down a bit. Smooth as ever. Took it apart today to attach the headphone jack ribbon because i had it upseide down on accident. I went from no sound to sound only in my left ear. Even with glasses, i have a really hard time getting the headphone ribbon in place. I need a really clear image close up that can help me. Any suggestions, guys?

sanibelsandflee1 -

The instructions were on point and I had no issues. I was able to complete this repair in about 30 minutes front to back. Thanks for giving my iPod back :)

Jim -

The instructions were great. I also had no issues. I did take my ipod apart prior to getting the part. That way I had an idea of how things would go apart and together. I also ordered the ifixit kit of tools so I wouldn't be running around to find the exact tools. Also having the kit enables me to fix some other ipods and whatever. So Bravo on the instructions. It is nice to have an ipod that is not locked up..!!

Julie German -

Excellent guide! Luckily my Ipod was super worn and old, so taking off the casing was easy peasy! one word of advice though : MAKE SURE YOU HAVE THE RIGHT SCREWDRIVER! I stripped one of those tiny interior screws and it was a huge hassle to pry it out.

Gage Norris -

amazing instructions, thank you!! i’m so excited to have a working ipod :))))

thardee -

Hi

really great guide and everything has worked perfectly… however I’m Having trouble reattaching the orange headphone jack ribbon to the flip up plastic tab. It won’t attach like I’ve seen on YouTube nor as easily as suggested here. To disconnect I followed the instructions, lifting the tab then gently pulling it away.

any suggestions please on how to secure the ribbon in place on the contacts as I’m worried it will be too loose.

many thanks

martin

Martin whitchurch -

Great tutorial! I was able to follow it and managed to replace the headphone port on my 160GB iPod Classic.

I don’t know if I did something wrong, but for some weird reason, the hold button doesn’t work?? Did I get the wrong one by accident?? I bought the thin version, should I have bought the Thick version instead? What is the difference between the two?

Njabulo Mkhize -

Great tutorial! Worked well. Only thing is the plastic opening tools I got with the replacement jack didn’t work worth with a $@$*. They snap and smudge. Precision screwdrivers that come in an eyeglasses repair set work better. The flat head ones are more durable and thin enough to pop the sides open better. They also work well to use in the internal components as well. You can get a set for a dollar at a Dollar General store.

Ray Church -

IPOD 60GB classic… been stuck in drawer for years…. needed new headphone jack…$10 on walmart.

This tutorial was the shiznit. THANKS! Used wifes wooden cuticle thing as the spudger…… its ok.

Juan Ramos -

I've worked in many small electronic devices but this tops them all. I'm going to give it a try but I need to download all my music first ….in case I mess up terribly. Great presentation and I hope I can do it proud! Stephen

Stephen Benben -

I just changed my headphone jack and my battery ! The opening wasn’t succesful with this tutorial, but i followed Elite Obsolete’s one on youtube and it worked ! Thanks Ifixit ! Ipod is working fine now !

Alexandre Ben M'Rad-Leblond -

Fantastic! My Ipod classic headphone jack started to show its age and wear, and at some point was outputting only on the right side… luckly enough ifixit has this spare part! Opening the ipod was a task of inifinte patience and care, but after the unit was open, replacing the headphone jack/hold switch block was super easy and uncomplicated.

Now the Ipod is back in shape, and music is blasting again both my eardrums!

Joel Gilardini -

I have part of a head phone jack stuck in the Headphone jack port.

Can this be repaired? Is this s repair job for Apple engineers?

Russell Gray -

I have an I pod Classic.

I have managed to get part of a head phone jack stuck in the headphone jack port.

Can this be repaired/ Is it a job for Apple engineers?

Russell Gray -