iPod Mini Festplattenkabel tauschen

Schritt 1

Bevor du den iPod öffnest, vergewissere dich, dass der Hold Schalter (Tastensperre) in der verriegelten Position ist.

Schritt 2

Setze vorsichtig einen kleinen Schlitzschraubendreher oder einen Jimmy zwischen das Metallgehäuse und die obere weiße Plastikabdeckung. Heble die obere weiße Plastikabdeckung mit den Schraubendreher ab. Passe darauf auf, dass du das weiche Plastik nicht mit dem Schraubendreher beschädigst.
Die obere Blende ist mit Kleber befestigt. Versuche an verschiedenen Stellen anzusetzen, um das Teil zu lösen
Um das Lösen einfacher zu machen, kannst du mit einem Fön die Blender ein paar Sekunden lang leicht erwärmen.

You can also gently use a metal spudger to lift up both the top and bottom bezels. Allow only 1/8" of the metal spudger (like the screwdriver in the picture) to get inside to get leverage, before fully lifting the bezel up. Please note where the little "teeth" are underneath the bezels, or you can damage those if you are not careful.

Also, using too big of a flathead screwdriver can cause damage to the plastic and chips away plastic from where you were trying to pry up the bezels, ruining the look of the iPod.

Ryan -

There should be a button here for "I did it -- EPIC FAILURE!!" When I put my iPod back together, the components on the mainboard were scraping against the clickwheel, and maybe the battery wasn't in perfect alignment, but the result was that there was a lethal amount of friction when sliding the assembly back into the case. As I was trying to relieve the pressure by tilting the board down using a spudger from the bottom, the top of the display bezel ended up scraping against the casing in such a way that it cracked from the center of the right edge. OUCH!! There goes a $50 repair job and a $40 replacement cost! Bye Bye perfectly working iPod Mini )-;

There are two safeguards that can be done when reassembling this iPod. First, use a stiff piece of plastic film as a shim and lubricant between the top of the logic board and the top inside of the case, such as anti-static packaging, or the clear bag packaging of Apple display dongles (use an exacto knife to cut a long strip of it). Don't cover the display with the plastic, just the logic board components. Second, instead of pushing down on the assembly from the top or sides of the display which will place dangerous pressure on it, connect a cable to the dock connector and pull on it from the bottom, and pull out the plastic shield deftly and easily after the assembly is in position.

steadfast I and I -

If it's held on by adhesive, how do I get it back on?

Cam -

If you have longish fingernails and don't mind ruining them, I found it helpful to run my thumbnail between the plastic and the metal casing before going at it with a screwdriver. The little "teeth" a previous commenter mentioned are at approximately the 1/3 and 2/3 marks on the long edge of the plastic casings.

rongshifen -

Instead of gouging the end caps out with the flat screwdriver, try hot gluing a piece of wood (I used a tongue depressor-like ‘craft stick’) to the end cap, then just lever the cap out without damaging the aluminum. Removing the stick and the glue from the end caps takes a little patience but can be done without leaving a mark.

Human - 18/06/19

Don’t use any kind of metal tool to get these plastic caps off. Metal on metal will scratch up the body. I use a thin guitar pick, work it in between the cap and case, then turn it horizontal and slide around enough until you can use your fingernail to pull the cap the rest of the way off. Don’t be aggressive and break off the little fingers on the bottom side of the cap.

Ken Mastri - 27/01/20

Use plastic picks or the back of an iSesamo tool to get in.

TheYootz Media Group - 16/04/20

For a newbie, consider removing the bottom bezel first. In case of scratches due to lack of practice and expertise, the bottom bezel usually isn't as visible during usage.

Using your fingernail, determine which edge would be best for starting. Feel for an edge where the aluminum case is a tiny bit higher then the plastic when pressing down gently on the bezel.

Only use plastic tools. The plastic picks from Ifixit are good. A plastic spudger may work but it needs a very sharp edge.

As you work the pick in between the bezel and the aluminum case, note that you can push the pick in more toward the middle of the bezel and much less (1/8") elsewhere. Avoid deep probes at the 1/3 and 2/3 points where plastic clips reside.

For those who are looking at the suggested timeline and wondering how it is possible, this step alone took me 45 minutes. So, take your time as you see fit.

YeeWee -

As an alternative to using hot glue: I cut a command strip to the width of the white bezel, then stuck it onto the bezel, then stuck a plastic card on the other side. Then it is easy to pull out the bezels. It is also easy to remove the command strips without damaging the bezel.

Ian -

Schritt 3

Hebe die obere Blende vom iPod ab.

A thinner blade, such as a small pocket knife blade worked for me.

dean dillon - 25/11/16

Schritt 4

Setze vorsichtig einen kleinen Schlitzschraubendreher oder einen Jimmy zwischen das Metallgehäuse und die untere weiße Plastikabdeckung ein. Passe darauf auf, dass du das weiche Plastik nicht beschädigst.

Again, be mindful and careful of the little white teeth on the underside of the plastic especially the two on the ends of the long sides.

DITOSP -

I used Stanley knife blade to gently prise both top and bottom plastic covers

jimbo20039 - 29/01/17

Like I do for the top, I use a thin plastic guitar pick to wedge between the plastic cap and metal case. Once it’s in, turn the pick horizontal (same as the cap) and work it around until you can get your fingernails under it. Also, I believe this cap is made to go on only one way, so maybe mark which edge is front or back

Ken Mastri - 27/01/20

Schritt 5

Eine kleine Sprengringzange ist das beste Werkzeug, um die Metallhalterung zu entfernen.
Du kannst auch einen Schlitzschraubendreher benutzen, um die Metallhalterung wie gezeigt unter der unteren Blende zu lösen. Dücke dafür zuerst die Metallarme an den Ecken ein. Hebe dann die Halterung an.

Be *very* careful on the left hand side. It's almost too easy to scrape the click wheel cable and cause damage to it!

LambdaCalculus -

I used a circlip tool and for removal and reinsertion. It was fast and easy and avoids bending the part. They are also referred to as snap ring pliers.

thezazupits -

Zitat von thezazupits:

I used a circlip tool and for removal and reinsertion. It was fast and easy and avoids bending the part. They are also referred to as snap ring pliers.

There are two kinds of snap ring pliers available. One pivots like regular pliers, one hinges in reverse (when you squeeze the handles, the tips spread). Use the first type.

PZencak -

My click wheel lost some of its functionality. The back button, and the touch sensitivity to scroll through songs isn't working. :(

coombsnahuel -

Hi,

I have followed this very good tutorial as carefully as I could and I thank you very much for having posted it!

However, my problem is not solved. After having connect-disconnect issues when used with car charger, the iPod started making faint noise when plugged and refused to charge or start-up. I thought it was a mechanical noise (hard drive?) but obviously it is not the case because battery and hard drive are now unplugged, and the board-screen assembly still makes the same noise when plugged in a USB socket (but of course I can't localize the origin of that noise).

Do you have any idea what it might be due to?

Thank you in advance for any advice,

Maxime

Maxime Gommeaux - 03/01/16

I would definitely recommend either circlip pliers to take out the metal retaining bracket because using a screwdriver leaves obvious marks on he corners of the case. I have noticed many for sale on eBay that have these marks. There are now plastic 'lifters' available to remove the top and bottom bezels and these are brilliant if used carefully and go in easily on the click wheel / screen side but be aware that when removing the bottom bezel it may bend the case a bit but it is easily persuaded back into shape. I too have carried out 64 GB, 128 GB and 256 GB conversions to the mini with a compact flash to SD card adapter and before fitting I format the card in my Sony Alpha 350 camera and it works a treat. My daughter loves her 128 gb converted mini and it's almost bombproof with a solid state memory on board.

ptrmayhew6 - 27/07/16

Rather than pry the ends of the clip out, insert the flat screwdriver as shown ( maybe a little more straight up) and slide it toward the open end, lifting as you go, and the corner of the clip will pop right out.

Human - 18/06/19

This is possibly the hardest part of this job for me. Getting this metal spring clip out without damaging the ribbon cable that’s right under one side is tricky. Take your time and use care to avoid touching the cable.

Ken Mastri - 27/01/20

In my ‘repair’, I managed to do the above on the side away from the clickwheel connector. I pried it up, and gently wiggled it free from the space. That way you don’t need to go prying at the connector, at cost of causing some scrape marks on the inside of the casing. Rather have internal scrapes than needing to replace the clickwheel!

Casey - 21/10/20

Schritt 6

Hebe die metallene Halterung aus dem iPod heraus.

Schritt 7

Löse das orangene Flachbandkabel zum ClickWheel vorsichtig mit dem Spudger oder der Fingerspitze vom Logic Board.

Best to wiggle this one side at a time or else you will be replacing a click wheel

Duck -

Schritt 8

Entferne die beiden Kreuzschlitzschrauben #00, mit denen die Kopfhörerbuchse am Gehäuse befestigt ist.

Schritt 9

Drücke nahe am unteren Rand des ClickWheels vorsichtig auf das Logic Board und schiebe den iPod aus seinem Gehäuse heraus.
Ziehe nicht an der Platine mit der Kopfhörerbuchse oben am iPod, der Stecker am Logic Board ist sehr empfindlich.

This comment is about the re-assembly, the inverse of this step:

When pushing the assembly back into the casing, note that there is a spongy block at the bottom of the assembly on the battery/drive side (can be seen on the picture attached to step 12, at the extreme left of the picture). This block scrapes against the casing wall and pushes the circuit board towards the click wheel.

I used a spudger to gently push the circuit board away from the click wheel and compress this block. This allows the assembly to slide into the casing without halting at, or scraping against, the click wheel.

Yishai Sered - 13/06/16

there is a capacitor (c78) that is prone to breaking due to the facts mentionned in the comment above if the logic board is not carefully insterted, it can break and your clickwheel stops working and you probably don't want that... i had to buy a entire ipod mini logic board just because of this

Hazel -

Schritt 10

Wenn das Logic Board weit genug herausgeschoben ist, fasse es an beiden Seiten des Displays behutsam an und hole den iPod weiter aus seinem Gehäuse heraus.

be sure to wipe the screen with a microfiber cloth when reinstering the logic board into the ipod... there's nothing more frustrating than that piece of dust behind the glass...

Hazel -

Schritt 11

Hebe den Akku vom Logic Board weg und lege ihn seitlich vom iPod ab.

Schritt 12

Löse das orangene Flachbandkabel zur Festplatte vorsichtig mit dem Spudger oder der Fingerspitze vom Logic Board ab.

So, why do you show it on the pic to pry it from the side?!?

Kirsten A. Schuck - 29/10/17

I just left the ribbon connector attached to the logic board, peeled back the tape on the sides of the drive and unplugged it.

Human - 18/06/19

I preferred to flip up the drive and pry from the side to the left in this picture which would be underneath the drive itself. The black spudger is your best friend for prying miscellaneous iPod connectors.

SEAN Tanton - 27/09/20

Schritt 13

Hebe die Festplatte aus dem iPod heraus.

This is the point when your iPod is finally and total &&^&@@ up, cuz it´s not possible to connect the hard disk again….FUUUUUCK!!!

Kirsten A. Schuck - 29/10/17

if you're upgrading the spinning hard drive with a cf card, i would suggest putting double-sided tape on the back of the cf card to keep it from rattling inisde the ipod and possibly disconnecting itself

Hazel - 02/08/22

Does the new drive/CF card need to be formatted? How does that get done?

Matt Weatherford -

Schritt 14

Ziehe das schwarze Stückchen Klebeband zurück, mit dem die zwei blauen Dämpfer der Festplatte nahe am orangenen Flachbandkabel befestigt sind.

Detaching and then reattaching the original black tape on the hard drive (when replacing the hard drive and/or hard drive cable) may not be easily reattached later. This is okay.

(Optional) You can use black electrical tape to hold the blue bumpers back to the top of the hard drive cable (after the cable is connected to the hard drive). 1/2" of tape should be fine for each side, and placed equally over the top.

Ryan -

Schritt 15

Schiebe die beiden blauen Dämpfer von den Ecken der Festplatte ab. Sie müssen aber nicht ganz entfernt werden.

Schritt 16

Löse behutsam das orangene Flachbandkabel zur Festplatte von der Festplatte ab. Drücke schön gleichmäßig, damit keine Kontakte verbogen werden.
Wenn sich das Kabel nicht leicht ablösen lässt, kannst du es vielleicht abziehen, indem du es ein wenig vor und zurück bewegst.

iPod Mini Festplattenkabel tauschen

Einleitung

Werkzeuge

Ersatzteile

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Tinte & Feder

iRobot

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