iPod Mini Logic Board tauschen

If you have longish fingernails and don't mind ruining them, I found it helpful to run my thumbnail between the plastic and the metal casing before going at it with a screwdriver. The little "teeth" a previous commenter mentioned are at approximately the 1/3 and 2/3 marks on the long edge of the plastic casings.

Instead of gouging the end caps out with the flat screwdriver, try hot gluing a piece of wood (I used a tongue depressor-like ‘craft stick’) to the end cap, then just lever the cap out without damaging the aluminum. Removing the stick and the glue from the end caps takes a little patience but can be done without leaving a mark.

Don’t use any kind of metal tool to get these plastic caps off. Metal on metal will scratch up the body. I use a thin guitar pick, work it in between the cap and case, then turn it horizontal and slide around enough until you can use your fingernail to pull the cap the rest of the way off. Don’t be aggressive and break off the little fingers on the bottom side of the cap.

Use plastic picks or the back of an iSesamo tool to get in.

For a newbie, consider removing the bottom bezel first. In case of scratches due to lack of practice and expertise, the bottom bezel usually isn't as visible during usage.

Using your fingernail, determine which edge would be best for starting. Feel for an edge where the aluminum case is a tiny bit higher then the plastic when pressing down gently on the bezel.

Only use plastic tools. The plastic picks from Ifixit are good. A plastic spudger may work but it needs a very sharp edge.

As you work the pick in between the bezel and the aluminum case, note that you can push the pick in more toward the middle of the bezel and much less (1/8") elsewhere. Avoid deep probes at the 1/3 and 2/3 points where plastic clips reside.

For those who are looking at the suggested timeline and wondering how it is possible, this step alone took me 45 minutes. So, take your time as you see fit.

As an alternative to using hot glue: I cut a command strip to the width of the white bezel, then stuck it onto the bezel, then stuck a plastic card on the other side. Then it is easy to pull out the bezels. It is also easy to remove the command strips without damaging the bezel.

My click wheel lost some of its functionality. The back button, and the touch sensitivity to scroll through songs isn't working. :(

Hi,

I have followed this very good tutorial as carefully as I could and I thank you very much for having posted it!

However, my problem is not solved. After having connect-disconnect issues when used with car charger, the iPod started making faint noise when plugged and refused to charge or start-up. I thought it was a mechanical noise (hard drive?) but obviously it is not the case because battery and hard drive are now unplugged, and the board-screen assembly still makes the same noise when plugged in a USB socket (but of course I can't localize the origin of that noise).

Do you have any idea what it might be due to?

Thank you in advance for any advice,

Maxime

I would definitely recommend either circlip pliers to take out the metal retaining bracket because using a screwdriver leaves obvious marks on he corners of the case. I have noticed many for sale on eBay that have these marks. There are now plastic 'lifters' available to remove the top and bottom bezels and these are brilliant if used carefully and go in easily on the click wheel / screen side but be aware that when removing the bottom bezel it may bend the case a bit but it is easily persuaded back into shape. I too have carried out 64 GB, 128 GB and 256 GB conversions to the mini with a compact flash to SD card adapter and before fitting I format the card in my Sony Alpha 350 camera and it works a treat. My daughter loves her 128 gb converted mini and it's almost bombproof with a solid state memory on board.

Rather than pry the ends of the clip out, insert the flat screwdriver as shown ( maybe a little more straight up) and slide it toward the open end, lifting as you go, and the corner of the clip will pop right out.

This is possibly the hardest part of this job for me. Getting this metal spring clip out without damaging the ribbon cable that’s right under one side is tricky. Take your time and use care to avoid touching the cable.

In my ‘repair’, I managed to do the above on the side away from the clickwheel connector. I pried it up, and gently wiggled it free from the space. That way you don’t need to go prying at the connector, at cost of causing some scrape marks on the inside of the casing. Rather have internal scrapes than needing to replace the clickwheel!