iPod Nano 4. Generation äußeres Gehäuse austauschen

Be sure to use the smaller iPod opening tool and press it in FIRMLY in order to get enough leverage to get under the bezel and pry it off. Adhesive is very strong, so don't be afraid to use a little bit of force.

Tool broke before I could get the cover off !!! So I’m done before I even started !!

I have a Apple iPod Nano 4th gen(Green) and I only have 7 tech pieces to the iPod and I may/might have the small philips screws and I am not sure how to fix the iPod nano

Be sure to use a good phillips #00 screwdriver here, or you run the risk of stripping the very small screws.

The screws were covered with the adhesive. They were very difficult to remove.

I RUINED the hold switch! I accidentally broke the cord. 0_o The directions were kind of unclear.

Zitat von bodieg:

The screws were covered with the adhesive. They were very difficult to remove.

I RUINED the hold switch! I accidentally broke the cord. 0_o The directions were kind of unclear.

Step 12 is misleading as it does not show to remove the screen from the metal frame.

I found I had to gently pry the retainer open with a craft knife (xacto knife?) as the plastic opener tool was too blunt or soft to get any purchase...

My nano had a "swollen" battery which wedged the LCD between battery and front glass. As a result, this step didn't work, I couldn't pull out the TFT and botched case, TFT and TFT frame until it came out. Telltale sign was a display that looked like there is a water between glass and LCD. The other nanos I've opened didnt have this problem and came out effortlessly, so if yours is stuck, don't feel bad, there's not much you can do!

What to do if the upper metal base (which is fixed to the circuit with 2 screws) came off when extracted?

Which side can I anchor to force the display to exit?

I have several problems in taking it out. I don't know if it is dued to the glue that the iPod has inside. Could you help me. Thanks

instructions say 5" (inches) it really means 5mm

Zitat von pedalsandpicks:

instructions say 5" (inches) it really means 5mm

If you're gonna repair the way you read it will get you nowhere: the text reads .(as point)5 inch. Which is about 12mm.

I found the adhesive (or fit) quite strong. Pushing on the bottom part of the glass created a small gap at the top, which I could fit a craft knife (xacto blade) into. This made it easier to carefully lever the glass out for me.

I slipped and broke the LCD. So !#^&@@ off. What an absolute bastard of a job!

Does anyone know where I could get the power button flex cable replacement? I was too extremely careful but the screen has a very precise fit. I is fine when you push the screen into the case but !&&* of a work to pull it out.

Continue to carefully hold the socket down while doing the next step. If the cable come off at the wrong angle it can pull the connector away from the board at the base of the screen.

Some of the ribbon is inside the white housing with the lock on, it needs to slide out of the housing. I didn't notice this because everything is so small - be sure not to slide your pry tool right through it.

The display can actually be pulled out slightly further than it initially seems. When you gently pull it up, you'll experience some resistance, which I initially thought indicated it was as far as it could go. But an extra bit of (still very gentle) force can pull it up a few more millimetres, which means the opening tool can fit.

Also, it seemed to me to actually be helpful to lever the cable out of its port before removing the ribbon from the adhesive on the plate, since this allowed better access to the adhesive with the opening tool.

As commenter Brian Campbell wrote on the previous step, it is important to hold down the white cable socket while carefully working the cable loose from the adhesive. Even a small amount of upward force on the display data cable while it is still inside the socket could be enough to tear the socket off the board. Try not to pry up - use a thin, new (undamaged) opening tool to get under the ribbon cable and keep it parallel and as close to the metal plate as possible. It needs to be worked *under* the data cable, not to pry, as the cable just slides straight out the bottom of the white socket.

By "caught" do you mean glued to the case? Mine was, and I cant tell how I could possibly have removed the screen without it breaking. Luckily my Ipod was already broken, but now its even more broke because of this guide.

Oops!!!…..I managed to break the little ribbon cable going to the hold switch…lots of very “colourful“ words aimed at myself are in my head now.

Follow this picture exactly, inserting the tool in the dock port to pry off the bottom plastic piece-- if you pry on the edges you may bend or break this plastic piece.

In my case, the screw on the left was impossible to remove, it looked like it was unscrewing but was not ... I could not proceed any further.

Any advice?

If a screw is stripped, you need to somehow get another under the head to apply pressure to unscrew it (while unscrewing it). It’s an unpleasant operation where you have to apply pressure to keep the screwdriver pressed into the head while prying outward so the threads back out. Try not to strip the head, and try not to strip the threads, while helping the threads to catch.

If this happens, you’ll need to replace the screw. It’s not a good idea to reinstall a stripped screw.

우선 하판을 들어내면 나사에 접착제가 있을거에요 핀셋같은걸로 충분히 제거하고나서 나사를 푸시는게좋을듯

I found using the opening tool to wedge up (toward the case) from between the metal bit (which is a plate) and the dock socket was the easiest way to do this.

No, don’t do step 17 without reading step 18 and 19 first! Step 17 is very misleading read on its own, you will break the connector. You need to read setps 17, 18 and 19 before starting step 17.

Pay heed to the word “peel”. Don’t pry. Work the tool slowly under the connector, keeping it as close to the board as possible. Don’t pry. The unit I repaired also had a small piece of Kapton tape, the corner of which can be lifted with tweezers.

Looks like I may have broken the little ribbon cable for the click-wheel, so, I might have to call it quits and spend another Au$260.00 on a new iPod Nano.

you might want to put a note for the delicacy of this cable on Step 16... because the cable can break as you slide the logic board assembly out :o(

You forgot to mention that the click wheel ribbon cable needs to be detached from the adhesive holding it to the main board. Now my ipod is really broken. Please review your instructions to include all the steps!

Zitat von Mike:

You forgot to mention that the click wheel ribbon cable needs to be detached from the adhesive holding it to the main board. Now my iPod is really broken. Please review your instructions to include all the steps!

Mine too, but the iPod was already toast :D, so now i have a stylish 8GB External SSD

There has got to be a trick to it, or something I am missing when putting it back together. I can't get the click wheel ribbon to go back in properly. It keeps getting bunched up and sticking out the end. It is long enough to stick out so you can detach it from the other ribbon, so is it supposed to fold up inside when you push it in?

My click wheel cable got sliced reinserting the logic board, so make sure your click wheel cable is on the front (like the instructions say), and not on the side. It would help if there were explicit reassembly instructions and not just "do these in the reverse order", so that special reassembly notes stand out more.

Instead of pulling it out, I found it easier to use the display hole to push on the top part of the battery straight down toward the bottom of the unit. This gives you far greater control of the battery/mainboard removal operation; you can push it out (down) in tiny increments and confirm no cables are caught as you do it. Pulling can cause a sudden, catastrophic release and if something is caught, it’s destroyed.

Das Problem ist, das sich der alte Akku aufbläht wenn er kaputt geht bzw. sehr alt ist und das Gerät so gut wie nicht zu zerlegen ist. Bei mir ging das Display und das Kabel des HOLD Schiebers kaputt weil alles so dicht gepackt war. Empfehle den Ärger niemanden bzw. vor der Akku Bestellung zu überprüfen, ob sich der Ipod prinzipiell zerlegen lässt.

it's a good idea to use a spudger inside to loosen it, but make sure not to slip too far or you may scrape the outside of the clickwheel.

Be careful not to let the click-wheel slide on the metal plate supporting it, as it will break the flat cable. Apply force perpendicular to the click-wheel.

How is this a guide to replacing the click wheel? Everything you want to know about how to get it out, but not a word about how you "reverse the process" to get it back in again, especially what adhesive to use or how to make sure the metal plate ends up in the right place and doesn't inhibit the motion of the click wheel itself. If anyone has actually done this repair successfully, please post something!