Einleitung

Beim iPod Nano (7.Generation) sind einige Bauteile direkt auf dem Logic Board verlötet: der Akku, die Kopfhörerbuchse, die Ruhe-/Einschalttaste, die Lautstärketasten und der Lightninganschluss. Diese Anleitung zeigt, wie die ganze Einheit deines Nano ausgetauscht werden kann.

  1. PFpjwVSYrnq3JQap
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    • Wir empfehlen die Mikrowelle vor dem Gebrauch zu reinigen, da sonst Essensreste oder Ähnliches am iOpener hängenbleiben können.

    • Lege den iOpener in die Mitte der Mikrowelle.

    • Für sich drehende Mikrowellen: Stelle sicher, dass der Teller sich drehen kann. Wenn der iOpener hängenbleibt kann er überhitzen und sogar Feuer fangen.

    I didn't find this to be as hard as I had built it up in my mind to be; HOWEVER, saying that I need to say years ago I was the local Nokia service center in my town. But many years ago right after they got rid of analog times. Yeah. A classic installer/repairer mistake when starting something they haven't fixed or installed before is picking up the instructions, flipping through them; maybe even reading a section that is new-then tossing the instructions over the shoulder. "I got this." This usually comes right before something major gets broke. And I can tell you when you try to do it yourself and then mess it up horribly then take it to the repair shop. Well we called that "I can do it myself" syndrome and charged extra to put back together what they brought in in the box. Now knowing all this - I can't stress this enough because I am stupid, stupid, stupid. COVER YOUR SCREEN IN CLEAR BOXING TAPE AND READ ALL THE INSTRUCTION BELOW THROUGH TO THE END BEFORE EVEN ATTEMPTING THIS FIX. Take my advise.

    windizy -

    I didn't have an iOpener, so I used a wheat type heat bag. If you do this though, make sure you put a layer of plastic between your Mac and the bag, or you'll get condensation in places you don't want it.

    Martin Gray -

    I started out using the iOpener but switched to my wife's hairdryer. A heat gun or hair dryer proved to be much more convenient and is a time saviour. You can heat more and the glue becomes more fluid make the next steps with the opening picks much easier

    Jan Van Puymbroeck -

    I know this is obvious, but backup your iPad with iTunes before you start. I'd also turn off your passcode if you have one.

    Laurie Higgins -

    Ther first time you heat up the iOpener for this repair when its room temperature I had to heat it up for more than 30 seconds. I remember I had to heat it up for around 45 seconds. However, after that when you need to reheat it again during the repair 30 seconds will be enough.

    Yousef Ghalib -

    I used the wheat bag in a sensor microwave heating up to 65-70 deg C (155 def F).

    ian cheong -

    Get yourself a cherry pit bean bag the size of your iPad. Heat it, put the iPad on it for 3 to 5 minutes or so, reheat the cherry pit bean bag, again put your iPad on it. Then heat the iOpener and start working. The cherry pit bean bag will have to be reheated several times, but it will soften the adhesive so you have less problems with the iOpener

    Tim Feyaerts -

    The heating can be done very effectively (and quickly) with 3d printer heated bed. Make sure the bed is clean. Set the temperature to 60c, (130f ) and put the ipad face down for +/- 10 minutes. Repeat as needed throughout the “gentle prying” stages.

    polleyphony -

    The iOpener did not work at all for me.

    I had to use a heat gun and bring the edges of the case up to ~200 degrees (used an infrared thermometer to measure) before the glue would weaken. This obviously superheated the metal frame, so I also had to wear gloves to handle the phone while prying the back off with the included picks.

    Mike Jeanette -

    Repair instructions worked like a charm. Had to be patient with the iOpener and getting the screen off. I tried repeatedly without success until shifting the suction cup a bit to the left side where perhaps the glue had loosened up a bit more.

    Kyle -

    The iOpener, in my opinion, is of no help. Many warnings to say “don’t warm it too much”, but the glue doesn’t melt if not warm enough. As a result, a complete waste of time and energy. In addition, too much liquid in it, so it doesn’t lay on the device on a sufficient surface. I took a hairdryer and it worked much much better.

    laurentvidu -

    I used an immersion bath to heat this to 180F and applied it to the device until the outside temperature of the opener read 150F with an IR thermometer. Removing the screen took very little force with this method.

    breadandbits -

    My experience. I was replacing the screen which had been cracked and a little shattered in some places. The iopener is pretty much useless, so was the suction cup. The suction cup would probably be more useful if I was doing something besides the screen. Also you probably want the clean the screen before using it so it can get good suction. I used a hair dryer on high for a couple of minutes at a time (someone on this tread suggested that). I used my exacto knife and a razor blade to get into the adhesive. First the exacto to get the initial cut, then the razor blade to go a little deeper. Could have probably just used the razor blade, but the exacto has a little more finesse. I got the razor blade in and a little under the glass then I used the picks to wedge in. I didn’t want to risk anything using the razor blade too much. Used tape to keep the shattered glass together.

    trebor65 -

    My experience pt2

    Fortunately the shattering was mostly on the edges and most of it had adhesive on the back so it stuck together. Just take your time and work your way around following the guide to get the screen off. Have some goof off or goo be gone to clean the frame when putting the new glass on or putting the existing one back. (someone suggested that also, very good idea). Be careful of the LCD (you should know that). The cable on my LCD was pretty tight, so I propped it up while taking the cable cover off and when I put it back on I did the same thing. I just put a bottle on the battery and leaned the back of the LCD on that while attaching the cables and putting the screws back on the cover. Also be careful with the home button and the bracket on the back of it. I had enough old adhesive on left on the bracket that it stuck back to the new glass fine. So far only 12 hours in, so we will see how that holds up when the kids get at it.

    trebor65 -

    Another alternative if you do not have the iopener is to use a bed time hotwater bottle. Do not over fill it though. Just put enough hot water in to support the phone while you work around the adhesive.

    I use both the hot water bottle and iopener together on Samsung's. It makes life easier

    gazza667 -

    I followed the directions and heated my iOpener for 30 seconds in a 1000 watt microwave, and it came out at 160 degrees F, as verified by a infrared thermometer. This allowed me to separate the last bit of the back of my Samsung S8, which was already coming off due to a swollen battery (hence the reason for the repair).

    Dennis -

    Hallo,habe den Akku erfolgreich getauscht.Doch seitdem gibt es bei Telefonaten eine Rückkopplung für den anrufenden.Bei mir ist alles normal.Woran liegt das?Mfg

    Manu R -

    If you follow these instructions, you will crack your screen like I did. Heating the iOpener for 30 seconds, using it to melt glue, then waiting 10 minutes to reheat is useless. The iOpener can be used to maybe warm the glue on whatever side you aren’t working on. You need a hairdryer and/or a heat gun to melt the glue and separate the glass from the iPad.

    Anyone want to buy an old iPad with broken glass and a dead battery?

    mpulliam -

    Not everybody has a microwave. You should provide a target temperature for the iOpener and instructions for a conventional oven, or pot of warm water, or whatever. Although I will probably use a heat gun …

    Esmond Pitt -

    Three times heating opener and no luck. Tried pressing down gently on opener with a towel, and the opener broke. Wondering if I now replace table mats, fancy table cloth, etc. or will this stuff wash out.

    Not impressed so far. Maybe the hair dryer next.

    doug -

    I support the comments about the iOpener. Everyone has a hair drier, FHS, so get a cheap IR thermometer (£18) and blow heat until the area is 60+ deg C. Still takes w while, and getting the screen off is v scary, but just add more heat if you feel resistance.

    The rest of the kit is good, esp the magnetic screwdrivers.

    Richard O'Brien -

    No, everyone does not have a hairdryer. Some of us don’t even have hair. Thank goodness I already had an IR thermometer, though.

    nin10doh -

    #### WARNUNG WENN MINIMALSTER SPRUNG IM DISPLAY IST FUNKTIONERT DAS NICHT!!! ######

    Hatte einen winzigen, minimalen Sprung im Display. Ich dachte es könnte gehen, weil der Sprung “abgeschlossen” war. Er hat in einer Ecke ein winzige Glasteil rausgeschnitten. NEIN! Geht nicht. Habe alles mit viel Geduld dem iOpener und einem Föhn erhitzt. Es ist trotzdem sofort über das komplette Display zersprungen…

    T z -

    I’ve started with iOpener but changed very quickly to a heatgun. That was more efficient.

    Mizzoo, s.r.o. -

    I could not get the iOpener hot enough to melt the glue on my ipad 6. I heated for 45 seconds once and it was boiling and it still never worked. Thank goodness contributors mentioned using a hair dryer. Using an 1700w hair dryer on high did the trick to get the screen off. Still took some time and the case got pretty hot but be patient. It took twice as long and a lot more patience to get the battery out.

    Randal Haufler -

    I have an Ipad with touch screen issue, if i replace this part it should be Ok?

    janderson martin -

    WARNING - DO NOT MICROWAVE ON A METAL MICROWAVE RACK

    The metal microwave rack can heat up and melt through the iOpener cover letting the contents leak out.

    Not a big issue for me as I have a heat gun and used that instead.

    Run Up A Tree -

    I opened my iPad with the iOpener. Be patient! It may take quite a bit longer to it the iOpener in the microwave than it says in the guide. My microwave can only do 800W and I had to put the iOpener in several times (maybe a total of 90-120 seconds). I recommend that you have the transparent side up an watch the bag carefully. As long a the bag doesn't bloat up and the liquid doesn't start bubbling you should be fine. But I recommend to take the iO out from time to time to check it. (More comments in Step 6.)

    marcelflueeler -

    I gave upon the I opener and used a hairdryer. (Fixed an iPad 6)

    Tom Weber -

    iPad mini gen5. I used the iOpener. My microwave is 1200w with carousel. 30 sec got the iOpener to 155ºF. For the 2nd heating, after 10 minutes sitting, the temp was still around 125º so I only cooked it for 15 sec. Not enough increase so +5 sec more which me to 165-170ºF. This should be considered ballpark info because who knows the real output of the various microwaves and the quality of the IR tool used to determine temp.

    To successfully open my iPad mini I applied the iOpener twice to the left edge and twice to bottom. & once to R edge. Using the suction cup was difficult for me (I'm in my 70's so my hands don't work too well anymore). I had trouble holding the guitar pick and slipping them in (at an downward angle). In the end, sliding my thumbnail along the edge opened it very slightly and allowed the pick to get into the gap. I marked the ends of all my picks with a sharpie pen for the recommended 2mm insertion to avoid going in too deep. To get the screen open it took me approx 1 hour.

    jharrison -

  2. ylYXoFMbBeXNAIyj
    • Erhitze den iOpener für dreißig Sekunden.

    • Im Verlauf der Reparatur kühlt sich der iOpener wieder ab. Erhitze ihn dann noch einmal für dreißig Sekunden.

    • Achte darauf, den iOpener während der Reparatur nicht zu überhitzen. Eine Überhitzung bringt den iOpener möglicherweise zum Platzen.

    • Berühre niemals den iOpener, falls er aufgeschwollen aussieht.

    • Falls der iOpener in der Mitte immer noch zu heiß ist, um ihn anzufassen, dann benutze ihn weiter, bis er ein wenig herunter gekühlt ist, bevor du ihn erneut erhitzt. Ein ordnungsgemäß erhitzter iOpener sollte für bis zu 10 Minuten warm bleiben.

    I had to heat mine up for more than 30 seconds. After 30 seconds on high it was only warm. It had to keep trying different times and checking it until it got hot. I think the initial time that I put it in for was over a minute.

    whale13 -

    DO NOT USE IN NON ROTATING MICROWAVE! It will pop a hole. I had it in for 45 seconds the first time. It wasn't very hot inside and I saw it started to leak on the paper towel I put under it. Just a fair bit of advice. I think I will just stick with the heat gun. Loud but useful.

    Alex Jackson -

    I heated mine up for 30 seconds, tested, then again for 30 seconds. It felt adequately hot. Leaving it on the left side, per the instruction, for a minute did not loosen the adhesive. I ended up pulling the suction cup hard enough to shadder the old screen. Moral of the story, I don't think it gets hot enough safely to have an affect.

    Travis Dixon -

    There is a clear problem here with the heating part using the iopener things....no details are given. Whoever is testing them needs to make it clear - What temperature does it need to be? And for which phone models, because they differ in what's needed. It's only £10-15 for a laser guided temp sensor unit, and the designers/repairers should have one of those already for doing these kinds of repairs. Explaining half a repair, is worse than not explaining at all :-(

    assortedrubbish -

    All phones/devices differ it’s unrealistic and unsafe to put a exact time/temperature needed to soften the adhesive. It’s really quite simple you warm the device evenly and in a controlled manner just enough to enable pry tools and picks to begin separating. Best tool in my opinion but again this is because I have experience is a hot plate and heat gun both of which are used at nearly the lowest settings and I can handle flat palming the plate for almost 10 seconds I leave the device to conduct heat until approx it’s about 110 at most 120 ish this will be plenty to soften all the adhesive if any problem areas I use heat gun while prying. Again you need go slowly and learn with a throw away phone

    Greg Latta -

    I used a hot water bottle, works well as it covers the whole screen and stays hot for longer.

    dave -

    If I may suggest include your microwave wattage so people can get an idea on time for there own

    Patrick Storey -

    I agree with this.

    Jarl Friis -

    I ended up using a hair dryer. That iOpener thing took forever.

    mark fitzgerald -

    30 seconds sure isn’t cutting it… 45 didn’t get the screen of my iPad air 2 to budge either… even after resting on the ipad for 4 minutes.

    60 seconds in the microwave, the iOpener burst.

    I’ll get a new one and try once more with heating it 45 seconds and repeat that for 30 minutes like others have said here. If that doesn’t work it’ll have to be the heat gun.

    K

    Karl Marble -

    I can’t recommend the microwave. If the the iOpener becomes too hot, it bursts. Better put the opener in cooking water. Dry it and use it. Instead of an iOpener you can use hot/cool packs as well.

    Bernhard Keim -

    Great idea with using the heat packs. I will try that next time. Thank you

    Collins -

    Trust the directions! I forgot and left it in the Microwave too long and after 1 minute I had Mt Vesuvius - the iOpener burst and spewed the goodies out. The problem is, the Digitizer can be damaged by a hot air gun, so I had to tough out and remove the glue the hard way. I made it … with lots of patience! Tough lesson.

    Larry Bennett -

    I also used a hairdryer. I used it on the low setting and I cut a piece of carboard to protect the rest of the screen. The iFixit tool and method is vert tedious and very time consuming in comparison. With the hairdryer method you can literally have the display apart in a few minutes. Using your other hand nearby the area you are heating it should be very hot but not enough to burn your hand. You only have to heat metal part of case near glass edge. If you have a cellular model then you need to be very careful because the black antenna area is plastic. So less heat and work your way up in adding heat just enough to separate around the area but not so much you melt the plastic!

    Fixrights -

    iOpener was the worst part of the kit. Followed directions for :30 in microwave and took 4 trips to the microwave to loosen adhesive on left side of home button. I thought I was figuring it out and it was working well… even set a timer to wait 10 minutes between heating it up. Was on the right side and was on my 12th heat up when it exploded in the microwave. My only tip is that if you set it clear side up, as soon as you see any bubbles or boiling in the liquid, STOP! If you put a pot holder over the iOpener and press slightly to make good surface contact, that seemed to help. I finished heating with a “Corn Sack” that held heat better than the provided iOpener.

    digital_only -

    Mon iopener n'a pas tenu une réparation. Je ne vous conseille pas ce produit

    Berard Romain -

    Bonjour,

    Nous sommes désolés que votre réparation ne se soit pas déroulée comme prévu. Il se peut que le produit était défectueux. Veuillez contacter notre service client support@ifixit.com (boutique américaine) ou eustore@ifixit.com (boutique européenne) en décrivant ce qui s’est passé.

    Claire Miesch -

    Readers looking for temperature advice might check the comments of the previous instruction, as there are more there. I used an immersion bath to heat this to 180F and applied it to the device until the outside temperature of the opener read 150F with an IR thermometer. Removing the screen took very little force with this method.

    breadandbits -

    Thank you for posting some actual temperatures. I have a heat gun with a very fine self-temperature regulation setting capability.

    I will set it for 150-180 F, and use that to soften the adhesive.

    G Trieste -

    Get a heat gun.

    alesha adamson -

    I followed the directions and heated my iOpener for 30 seconds in a 1000 watt microwave, and it came out at 160 degrees F, as verified by a infrared thermometer. A second heating about 15 minutes later in the micro and it came out at 190 degrees F. Plenty hot enough to soften the adhesive for removing the back on my S8. Based on the comments above I think people just need to use more patience.

    Dennis -

    I used various time settings. It got very hot. It would soften the glue but not a whole lot. If my screen had been intact and I was replacing something that was not a digitizer, it may have worked. A broken screen makes the process significantly more difficult. I ended up breaking the home button cable. Good bye TouchID…

    cvela90 -

    After reading previous comments I didn't even use the i-opener. Used the heatgun ( hairdryer ) which works great for me. Maybe I was lucky as this is my first attempt at replacing a cellphone battery. Motoz 3

    Collins -

    It appeared 30 seconds were not enough, so I heated it more, by 5 seconds at a time until I got the right temperature about 70 degrees Celsius (measured with infrared pistol) to get the screen heated up to 60 C, the best for softening the glue. But the heat was quickly dissipating by the big aluminum back cover, so the best I got in 2 minutes of applying iOpener was around 45 C, which made the procedure difficult and having risk of breaking the screen. So I eventually abandoned iOpener and user a hot air gun with precise temperature setup. I set it to 90 C, which allowed me to open my iPad quickly and safely.

    Sergey Kofanov -

    I, too, ended up using a hot air gun. I’ve done earlier versions of iPad before but the adhesive used on this IPad 5 A1822 was particularly difficult to remove.

    Also, while the suction cup worked great when the glass is in tact, any cracks in the glass make the suction cup useless.

    manningrl -

    You need to remember here are different sizes of microwaves. I had the same issue.

    Heating on a smaller unit I used 45-60 seconds. That worked but was time comsuming

    William Draheim -

  3. Q3OPkaQyxV6cdnx3
    • Halte den iOpener an einem der flachen Enden und vermeide die heiße Mitte, während du ihn aus der Mikrowelle nimmst.

    • Der Beutel wird sehr heiß, sei vorsichtig beim Gebrauch. Lege dir am besten einen Topflappen bereit.

    I did this repair. I used a hair dryer, I think it works better: gets very hot fast.

    Cobus de Beer -

    I did too, you get far more control and no expense on fancy equipment.

    Billinski -

    Readers looking for temperature advice might check the comments of the previous instruction, as there are more there. I used an immersion bath to heat this to 180F and applied it to the device until the outside temperature of the opener read 150F with an IR thermometer. Removing the screen took very little force with this method. I don’t know how much microwaves vary in heating consistency with these pads, but knowing how inconsistent the temperature of a bowl of plain rice gets in my microwave, I wasn’t interested in even trying to use it for this.

    breadandbits -

    I used an electric griddle set to the lowest setting. It seemed to work very well.

    John -

    I vote for the hair dryer. The other methods work too but if you aren’t having any luck, switch to the hair dryer. While holding the iPad in my hand, I found that I am aiming the dryer at my finger at the same time and it gauges how hot it is. I stop when my finger can’t take it - maybe five seconds up close. Repeat as needed like I did.

    Robin -

    This thing melts when placed up side down in the microwave…

    Mark -

    If the maximum temperature for this iOpener is lower than the gadget glue minimum temperature, this device does not make sense.
    I think the maximum temperature for this iOpener is below 100⁰C and most gadget glue minimum temperature is higher than 100⁰C. So the iOpener is useless for many opening steps in repair guides. But who knows because temperature range is not specified for this iOpener.

    Jarl Friis -

  4. 2Nj3CEcEUHn2EtLQ
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    • Solltest du keine Mikrowelle haben oder benutzen wollen, folge diesem Schritt, um den iOpener in kochendem Wasser zu erhitzen.

    • Fülle einen Topf oder eine tiefe Pfanne mit ausreichend Wasser, um den iOpener komplett damit bedecken zu können.

    • Erhitze das Wasser (ohne den iOpener) bis es kocht. Schalte die Wärmezufuhr (Platte) aus.

    • Lege den iOpener für etwa 2-3 Minuten in das heiße Wasser. Stelle sicher, dass der iOpener komplett mit Wasser bedeckt ist.

    • Nimm den iOpener mit einer Küchenzange aus dem Wasser heraus.

    • Trockne den iOpener gründlich mit einem Küchen- oder Handtuch ab.

    • Der iOpener speichert die Hitze, und ist daher sehr heiß. Sei vorsichtig, und halte den iOpener nur an den Endlaschen, nicht in der Mitte.

    • Der iOpener kann jetzt verwendet werden. Solltest du den iOpener erneut erwärmen müssen, erhitze das Wasser nochmal bis zum Siedepunkt, schalte die Wärmezufuhr aus, und lege den iOpener wieder für 2-3 Minuten vollständig in das Wasser.

    What do I do if I don’t have a iopener?

    alexdelarge103@gmail.com -

    Use a hair dryer

    Edited To the max -

    2 or 3 cups Rice in a sock, heat for about 2 minutes. But, I recommend the iopener.

    Robert Garcia -

    When boiling in water you can put the iopener in a ziplock to keep it dry.

    Robert Garcia -

  5. EfSF1vXmEPtbhpDT
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    • Lege deinen iOpener über das Plastikstück, um den Kleber zu lösen. Der iOpener sollte circa 90 Sekunden auf dem Plastikstück liegen bleiben, dann erst sollte versucht werden, das Plastikstück zu entfernen.

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    • Benutze ein Öffnungswerkzeug aus Kunststoff, um die rückwärtige Kunststoffabdeckung weg vom iPod zu ziehen, bis es genug Platz für einen Spudger gibt.

    • Setze nun den Spudger unter die Kunststoffabdeckung und heble sie vom iPod ab.

    • Sei beim Entfernen der Kunststoffabdeckung vorsichtig, da die Bluetooth-Antenne daran befestigt ist.

    Too bad there is not a warning for bluetooth antenna damage... This guide led me to tearing my antenna.

    trogfield -

    still broke the antenna its very easy too

    Bin Chicken -

  7. prXMQMZFmw6L1brE
    • Biege die Bluetooth-Antenne nach rechts, so dass sie nicht mehr im Weg für die Schrauben an der Geräteunterseite sind.

    • Entferne die einzelne Kreuzschlitzschraube #000 vom schwarzen Kunstoffabstandshalter.

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    • Entferne den schwarzen Kunstoffabstandshalter mit einem Öffnungswerkzeug vom Nano.

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    • Entferne die beiden 2 mm Kreuzschlitzschrauben #000 unten am Gehäuse.

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    • Setze ein Öffnungswerkzeug in die Naht zwischen dem weißen Frontpanel aus Kunststoff und der Gehäuserückseite ein.

    • Schiebe das Werkzeug am Frontpanel entlang, damit sich die Rasten und der Kleber lösen.

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    • Drücke die Lasche für die Schraube am Mittelrahmen mit einem Spudger nach oben aus dem Gehäuserückteil heraus.

    I CAN NOT find this midframe screw tab.

    Donald Fournier -

  12. DD2QMCCEY4rEyOUa
    • Heble sehr sorgfältig mit einem Metallspatel unter dem Lightninganschluss und allen anderen Bauteilen am Frontpanel: der Glasscheibe/Touchscreen, dem LCD und dem metallenen Mittelrahmen.

    • Der Kleber unter der metallenen Mittelrahmen/Displayeinheit ist ziemlich stark und die Bauteile sind empfindlich. Arbeite langsam und behutsam. Achte darauf, dass das LCD nicht verbogen wird.

    This step is extremely difficult to do... How am I supposed to manage to lift the frame with the LCD screen without potentially causing damage to the LCD screen?

    Uriel Melchor -

    Yeah, I did run into a roadblock with that too, so I’ll have to find a heat gun (or iOpener) and see if I can use that to loosen the frame.

    Kevin Bhasi -

    Hello, My name is Michael , in this moment I destroyed one of the lines of the screen, because in this point every connector it is the right side , so I advice start for the another side , left up through right down side i think is the better way.

    it is the shame for me.

    Michael Lendian Castillo -

    This is quite bad way to separate the display from the housing. Many people will destroy the touch panel ribbon or the LCD. It is far better way that you insert very thin(~0.5mm) plastic card (do not use metal tool) to the gap between the housing and the iron LCD mounter, and the do as written.

    mamarama9904 -

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    • Heble weiter unter den Kanten der Frontpanel-Baugruppe entlang und löse die Rasten und den Kleber an den Seiten.

  14. aR1DCEMEgjY1VAQ3
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    • Ziehe die Frontpanel-Baugruppe leicht nach unten und teilweise aus dem Gerät heraus.

    • Du brauchst das Gerät nur so weit zu öffnen, um an die Stecker der Displaykabel nahe der Ruhe/Einschalttaste heranzukommen

    • Trenne die beiden Hälften noch nicht ganz voneinander ab, sie sind noch mit verschiedenen Kabeln miteinander verbunden.

    STOP! DO NOT ATTEMPT THIS UNTIL AFTER STEP 14 IF YOU VALUE NOT SEVERING THE LCD CABLE! Just please, please be aware that the battery cable CANNOT be disconnected, be careful!

    Colin Gubler -

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    • Löse die Stecker des Touchscreens und des Displaydatenkabels mit einem Spudger.

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    • Klappe die beiden Gehäusehälften vorsichtig auseinander, um an die inneren Bauteile heranzukommen.

    • Versuche nicht, die beiden Teile ganz zu trennen. Sie sind mit einem verlöteten Kabel miteinander verbunden.

  17. uITqLsTw3mkAswdr
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    • Ziehe an der Lasche am Akku, bis sich der Akku aus seiner Klebeverbindung löst.

    • Klappe den Akku in das andere Gehäuseteil, so liegt er sicher.

    Disconnecting the battery from the lcd screen can ruin the battery,

    so why do that if you are just replacing the digitizer?

    rather just open the six screws and disconnect the digitizer.

    Yehuda Tsibushkin -

  18. ygdVAHyA3GULGVDH
    • Trenne die Frontpanel-Baugruppe ganz vom restlichen Gerät ab.

  19. vJC6qAkgOGGdETLm
    • Klappe den Akku über das Logic Board nach unten, um an die Ruhe-/Einschalttaste heranzukommen.

    • Entferne die beiden 1,4 mm Kreuzschlitzschrauben #000, mit denen die Halterung der Ruhe-/Einschalttaste befestigt ist.

  20. MIRQDwvJmQJWZGtG
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    • Entferne die Halterung der Ruhe-/Einschalttaste von der Gehäuserückseite.

  21. SpITAYPhKEtaQpyx
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    • Setze ein Öffnungswerkzeug unter die Ruhe-/Einschalttaste und heble sie nach oben aus ihrer Klebeverbindung heraus.

    • Schiebe das Öffnungswerkzeug unter dem Flachbandkabel zur Ruhe-/Einschalttaste entlang.

    • Lege dieses Flachbandkabel so weit frei, bis du an die Lautstärketasten an der linken Seite des Gehäuserückteils herankommst.

  22. fXcJeeOjXwZZsUGC
    fXcJeeOjXwZZsUGC
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    • Ziehe ein eventuell vorhandenes Klebeband über den Lautstärketasten zurück.

  23. 4IGXhWkbVvKwPypf
    • Entferne die drei 1,4 mm Kreuzschlitzschrauben #000, mit denen die Lautstärketasten am Gehäuserückteil befestigt sind.

  24. nMYuMN4TOVhRhFMS
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    • Heble die Lautstärketasten mit der Spudgerspitze von der Kante des Gehäuses weg.

    • Entferne die Lautstärketasten noch nicht ganz vom Gerät. Sie sind immer noch mit einem verlöteten Kabel am Logic Board verbunden.

  25. y1RjxqE5IWqQNIsb
    • Klappe den Akku wieder in seine Vertiefung zurück, damit die Kopfhörerbuchse freiliegt.

    • Entferne die 2,8 mm Kreuzschlitzschraube #000 von der Kopfhörerbuchse.

    • Entferne die vier Kreuzschlitzschrauben #000 vom Lightninganschluss und Logic Board.

  26. TbkyeZ1jfTCFK6UV
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    • Heble die Kopfhörerbuchse mit der Spudgerspitze aus der Klebeverbindung zum Gehäuserückteil weg.

    • Entferne die Kopfhörerbuchse noch nicht ganz vom Gerät. Sie ist immer noch mit einem verlöteten Flachbandkabel mit dem Logic Board verbunden.

  27. ZSfLjI4cVFZikTFI
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    • Schiebe das Logic Board mit dem flachen Ende des Spudgers von den Kanten des Gehäuserückteils weg, bis der Lightninganschluss herauskommt.

    • Wenn der Lightninganschluss gelöst ist, dann drücke behutsam zwischen ihm und dem Gehäuse, bis er ganz frei ist.

  28. waBujnCuC1VhOMhP
    • Hole die Logic Board Baugruppe vorsichtig aus dem Gehäuserückteil heraus.

    • Wenn es immer noch schwer geht, kleben wahrscheinlich noch Kabel oder andere Bauteile fest. Entferne die Einheit nicht, bevor du den Kleber mit dem Spudger gelöst hast.

Abschluss

Um dein Gerät wieder zusammenzubauen, folge den Schritten in umgekehrter Reihenfolge.

Sam Goldheart

Mitglied seit: 19/10/12

457712 Reputation

11 Kommentare

hi is it possible to replace the battery or is it soldered in?

dave -

its soldered in but you can replace it with some prior knowledge of soldering, i’m planning on doing it this weekend actually!

Nick75704 -

Will this fix a headphone jack that doesn't work?

Hailey -

Fixing the headphone jack is super hard. I've been working on mine for a few months. And Basically I ordered the part on ebay (headphone jack, the power button is attached) and I pulled it apart, opened the ipod and swapped everything out (pay close attention to where pieces go cause there's no YouTube videos on how to do it yet) but there is a small piece attached to the ribbon cable near the headphone jack (it's square shaped, with looks like little grid thing, not sure the name) and it has to be perfectly lined up and contacts have to be touching for the power button, volume controls, an headphone jack to work. And that's where I'm stuck cause you can't use adhesive or it will block the contact points. So if you can find someone to replace your ipod parts it will be much easier.

Megan McBride -

There are 4 screws that miraculously disappear between steps 24 and 25?

mlin75 -

Good catch! looks like a step mysteriously disappeared, I edited step 24 to include removing the four other logic board screws.

Sam Goldheart -

As someone who had a "waiting on parts" break between the disassembly and reassembly I had time to lose some of those microscopic screws, I appreciate they are listed with quantities and the ir sizes!

Using that information I will be able to identify what screws I need to purchase to replace the ones that I doubt made it too far, but they are just too small to see them there.

The bluetooth antenna was also disconnected from the logic board (button snap-like connector) and it's single1.4mm screw removed holding the antenna ribbon cable to the metal case before the screw was removed from the 3.5 audio jack and the 3 from the lightning jack and the last one in the logicboard.

Mindy McClaran -

Hello..i just tried to replace battery for ipod-A1446..and i mistakenly ripped off the P- and P+ copper pads given for the battery..any suggestions to replace back the coper pads?

Logan Wolverine -

get a new battery if you ripped it off the flex cable. Get a new logic board if you ripped the pads off the board (which can happen).

Liam Powell -

Posso trocar o conector Lightning? Como se faz?

felipefav -

Mine had a lot of metal that I did NOT see in this guide, and a few more screws. Which gives the Nano 7th gen a repair rating of -3. on a 1-10 scale (at least on my book).

Frank Vasquez -