iPod Touch 1st Generation Front Panel Assembly Replacement

Geschrieben von: Will Budney
  • Kommentare: 39
iPod Touch 1st Generation Front Panel Assembly Replacement

Schwierigkeitsgrad

Difficult

Schritte

14

Zeitaufwand

Keine Schätzung

Einleitung

This guide shows how to replace the front panel assembly on the 1st Generation iPod Touch.

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    • Opening the case is a tough and potentially dangerous task. A good amount of force is required to wedge the plastic opening tool in between the case seams. The case may be damaged if this step is not done properly. Make sure not to hurt yourself while opening your iPod.

    • Insert the small plastic opening tool into the seam in between plastic display panel and the metal back panel. The angled edge should point towards the metal back panel.

    • Hold the tool in place once it is wedged inside and the two panels are separated.

    I found the little plastic tools to be useless. I finally got the case apart using jeweler's screwdrivers, guitar picks, and believe it or not, a wood chisel to split the sides of the case open. And believe it or not, I got back together again - not quite as good as new, but good enough.

    I'd REALLY love to know how Apple technicians get this little beast apart without damaging or nicking the case.

    phinegan -

    Zitat von phinegan:

    I'd REALLY love to know how Apple technicians get this little beast apart without damaging or nicking the case.

    Who's betting the actually replace the back with a brand-spanker - if they repair them at all!

    marc draco -

    They do replace it with a new back, thats why they said that if you have words on the back (engraved) by someone other then apple, your going to lose those but if there done by apple then they'll do it again (when replaceing the battery they say that)

    Zitat von marc draco:

    Who's betting the actually replace the back with a brand-spanker - if they repair them at all!

    shadowfox00101 -

    I replaced my battery in my 1st gen iPod and it still doesn't hold a charge for more then 5 min. Any ideas?

    ae86keidori -

    Zitat von ae86keidori:

    I replaced my battery in my 1st gen iPod and it still doesn't hold a charge for more then 5 min. Any ideas?

    mine has the same problem. My 1st gen iPod touch dropped in water. after that It still works but can't hold a charge for more than 5 mins. I changed the battery and still the same.

    One of my friend give me some advices, I simply clean the whole logic board with some non water alcohol, and it works. It works perfect now. You can have a try.

    Liku -

    I found a method that worked for me in opening the case. I started at the top, and used a sewing needle. I'm sure a straight pin world work also. Using some padding between the back of the needle and my hand, I worked the point of the needle between the casing and the metal back. Don't push straight into the gap, push on the edge of the gap down toward the back of the iPod. Once you feel the needle slip in, use it as a guide to get your prying tool in there.

    Paul Jones -

    Hey, I made it, it's open! My opener tool was useless. A swiss army knife and lots of brute force is your friend. My tool broke apart not resisting such force that is necessary.

    http -

    lol i dropped my iPod this fixedit because it had no back

    elais -

    Count get past step 1 :( began seperating the back but the metal back sooner bent than the clips letting loose. I heard something chip then the ipod started getting very hot so I think I punctured the battery :( its going to live outside for a while before I throw it out.

    Mike -

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    • There are seven interlocking retaining clips on each side of the iPod. The large plastic opening tool will be used to separate the front panel from the metal back of the iPod.

    • Insert the large opening tool into the right side of the iPod, with the edge of the tool pointing towards the metal back.

    • Gently enlarge the existing crevice by wiggling the large opening tool and moving it to the right.

    • Continue doing so until the right side of the iPod is loose.

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    • Switch to the other side of the iPod.

    • Follow the same procedure as in the previous step to release the seven clips holding the panels in place.

    • Once the panels are separated on this side, the back panel can be separated from the rest of the iPod.

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    • Gently lift the rear panel using your fingers.

    • The front and back of the iPod should now be completely separated.

    • The gold antenna (third picture) can easily fall out from its housing. Make sure that the antenna is securely in place before closing the iPod.

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    • The battery is glued to the iPod's display, but no screws hold it in place.

    • Flip the iPod 180 degrees so it matches the orientation in the picture.

    • Carefully insert the spudger in between the battery and the display. There are routing cables underneath, so make sure you slowly pry the battery loose.

    Could I possibly just cut the battery cables in this step and solder them to the wires on the new battery??

    DUSTmurph -

    On reassembly before putting the two screws back in, make sure to slide the top part of the board opposite the screws under the small black plastic notch.

    barlowdo -

    In step five I was very careful with the spudger at getting the battery loose from the LCD screen but now after reassembly I have white bleed through all around three sides of the LCD screen. It shows up easily on light colored screen backgrounds like the Set up screen. It looks like the spudger some how damaged the back side of the LCD screen during disassembly. Is this glue heat sensitive or is there an alternative to using the spudger that a user can suggest?

    barlowdo -

    Zitat von DUSTmurph:

    Could I possibly just cut the battery cables in this step and solder them to the wires on the new battery??

    I am thinking about trying this myself - It seems a lot less labor intensive than desoldering in that very tight location. I guess the big concern is if there is room for insulation on the spliced wires when the unit gets closed up.

    barlowdo -

    Zitat von barlowdo:

    I am thinking about trying this myself - It seems a lot less labor intensive than desoldering in that very tight location. I guess the big concern is if there is room for insulation on the spliced wires when the unit gets closed up.

    I will add that there is really not a lot of wire length to do a splice on and it may be as difficult to do as soldering to the circuit board.

    barlowdo -

    Yes, even without de-soldering/soldering, one can simply cut the two wires then put a jumper wire on re-installation.

    I agree with DUSTmurph's, comment.

    profeduards -

    Is there any jumper little enough to fit in it?

    Giovanni Borney -

    You could cut the cables and solder the new batt's to these, but I'd make sure the total length of the splice is the same to the original. Also use the smallest-diameter heat-shrink tube to insulate so as not to make a bump that prevents the trinket to close properly.

    Aristarco Palacios -

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    • Use a spudger (or your fingernails) to remove the gold antenna. The antenna bends easily, so make sure not to apply too much pressure. When re-assembling, put the gold antenna in place before inserting the antenna circuit boards.

    • Use the spudger to remove the connector on the left side.

    • Remove two Phillips screws.

    These two screws are short.

    NoH2O -

    There is a gold spring coil on the side of the board near the left side. BE VERY CAREFUL! It extremely brittle metal and if smashed down, won't connect with the power switch. Once smashed down, attempting to stretch it back out will break it. I found out the hard way and the only way to fix it is to replace the logic board.

    LukeInDC -

    Are these really Phillips 00 screws? My supposedly 00 screwdriver is way too big. Maybe they are really Phillips 000. The screws in my device were set with blue locktight (grr). I was able to unscrew three of the six with very small straight edge screwdriver but had to sand off the heads of three more with a Dremel tool. This is dangerous. During the process I barely nicked a component near where the antenna cable connects to the logic board. Now I have a new battery and no WiFi.

    anonymous 6952 -

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    • The antenna loop board needs to be pried up (it is glued down). Gently use a plastic opening tool or spudger, to dislodge the antenna loop board. The board is connected to the antenna electronics by a small ribbon cable. This two-board assembly is very frail.

    • The two small antenna circuit boards can now be lifted up together, and their orange cable can be peeled from the display.

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    • Use the spudger to remove the black masking tape. This will reveal the top two screws in the picture.

    • Unscrew the four Phillips screws.

    • Use a spudger to disconnect the black connector.

    • Use a spudger to disconnect the black connector.

    Left screw is very short. Right screw is long. Top screws same as bottom ones.

    NoH2O -

    Also, right top one appears bronze/gold colored while left top one is silver, like the bottom ones. Don't know if this is important. (Also, couldn't figure out how to add to previous comment!)

    NoH2O -

    Actually you can skip all this taking apart sequence - just remove older battery, clean the soldering holes and solder wires back from top. just put some thin plastic film under logic board where the soldering points are while soldering wires in. I replaced god knows how many batteries like this and they all are fine. that way you can replace battery in 5minutes!

    DigiHead -

    Right, this is what I did. Although it took me more than 5 minutes just to get the case open.

    Madelaine Gogol -

    i reinstalled the lcd and digitizer. only the top works. the bottom of the screen will not respond to touch. help please !!!

    Nemowuner -

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    • Use the spudger to loosen the logic board from multiple sides. It is held in place by glue and the four screws that were removed in the previous step.

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    • Be careful when flipping up the logic board. The headphone jack and docking port are attached to the board.

    • Gently lift the logic board (and attached components) upward.

    • The smaller portion of the logic board that resides underneath is very bendable and frail. Make sure not to pull the spudger upward when using it to detach the small board. Use only side-to-side movement.

    • Slide the spudger under the small portion of the logic board. The board should come loose once the spudger has slid almost all the way to the other side.

    When removing the smaller board, while sliding the spudger, I dislodged a white circular plastic disc stuck to the board which is some kind of buffer to the front side button and the board. It's a little sticky, hopefully I'll be able to put it back the right way.

    NoH2O -

    I've managed to strip a screw. Be careful of that!

    brittanica101 -

    I believe the white adhesive disc is the contact for power button, so try replacing the same way it came off. The dotted lines on the white should wrap around the edges of circuit board slightly and the board should hold it in place.

    swips -

    You don't actually need to remove the smaller portion of the logic board to remove the display. Just lift the larger portion up and out of the way, as illustrated.

    Mo Oishi -

    When I did this, the headphone jack cable sheared completely. The headphone jack was still down and the board flipped up. There was almost no resistance to indicate something was tearing. Luckily, installing a new headphone jack is pretty easy if you have a fine tip soldering iron. But it was a big delay as I had to order the part.

    jonathan -

    Zitat von jonathan:

    When I did this, the headphone jack cable sheared completely. The headphone jack was still down and the board flipped up. There was almost no resistance to indicate something was tearing. Luckily, installing a new headphone jack is pretty easy if you have a fine tip soldering iron. But it was a big delay as I had to order the part.

    Ryan Lacy -

    Zitat von Ryan:

    Do you have any specific info or guide on how to replace the headphone jack? I agreed to help a friend with their iPod and it turns out a new headphone jack is in order. I have never done a repair on an iPod requiring soldering. I think myself and many others would be grateful for a tutorial.

    Ryan Lacy -

    Zitat von Ryan Lacy:

    Do you have any specific info or guide on how to replace the headphone jack? I agreed to help a friend with their iPod and it turns out a new headphone jack is in order. I have never done a repair on an iPod requiring soldering. I think myself and many others would be grateful for a tutorial.

    Well what worked for me was keeping the old connector on the soldered part. The new ribbon has two holes on each solder connecting point. If the ribbon isn't already ripped, go ahead and rip/cut it. Then simply place the new ribbon on top of the existing end with the solder blobs on it. Press down with the heated tip from on top of the solder pads and the heat should be enough to melt the solder beneath. It should flow right up through the holes with the pressure and voila.

    jonathan -

    Jonathan did you post any photos or a video of your soldering the new headphone jack to the logic board? I did as you did and broke the small ribbon or cable connecting the headphone jack to the logic board. This is my first attempt at repairing an electronic device, and it ended very badly.

    Lucy -

    I do it without removing the smaller card : it is more safety !!

    Christophe BRETON -

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    • The logic board and battery can now be fully separated from the rest of the iPod.

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    • Peel the orange tape up covering the sixteen Phillips screws on the back of the display.

    • Use a #00 Phillips screwdriver to remove the sixteen screws.

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    • Separate the display from the front panel by gently lifting it.

    • The display and the front panel should now be completely separated.

    hi,

    after you take the display unit out. You have to separate the display from the al. backing plate. it is held on with glue so gentle prying with the spudger tools will do it for you. i started from one of the loose corners and used the opening tool to enable the spudger to get in.

    fantastic teardown,keep up the good work

    jigs

    jigalinb -

    Once you have re-assembled the iPod, the screen will not work unless you restart it by holding down the power button and the Home button down for a few seconds until you see the Apple logo.

    soulSnax -

    Some questions on re-assembly. I took mine apart because it got wet, so stopped after Step 13--I don't see a reason to take the front panel off--altho I may hit it w/the hair dryer just to ensure everything is dry. I'm also gently scrubbing the connectors and boards to remove built-up dust and crap. Any other suggestions?

    My Q's: do you re-use the various pieces of tape that were removed during dis-assembly? what about the glue--just stick things back on whatever glue is left or should I apply some anew? If so, what kind of glue do I use?

    I'm optimistic I'll be able to put it back together, thanks to this great site! Hopefully it will work as good as new.

    NoH2O -

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    • You now need to transfer the metal spacing into the new front panel. This allows the home button to get in contact with the logic board.

    • This spacing is glued to the front panel. Carefully insert a spudger below it and pry it out.

    What part of the board registers the “click”? I replaced the digitizer and I see the gold contact point however when home button is pressed there is no click sound and no click is registered. I don’t see any other area that would contribute to a click.

    Steve Sobs -

Abschluss

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

Tinte & Feder

Will Budney

Mitglied seit: 28/04/10

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