iPod Touch 4. Generation Rückkamera austauschen

Geschrieben von: Walter Galan
  • Kommentare: 68
iPod Touch 4. Generation Rückkamera austauschen

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Einleitung

Hier wird der Austausch der Rückkamera gezeigt.

  1. GYPJZwBLINDTRcS5

    • Die Frontscheibe des iPod 4.Generation ist am Rückgehäuse festgeklebt. Es empfiehlt sich sehr, den Klebstoff mit einem Heißluftgebläse aufzuweichen.

    • Stelle das Heißluftgebläse auf niedrigste Stufe ein und beginne den unteren Bereich des iPod in der Nähe des Home Buttons zu erwärmen.

    • Es ist empfehlenswert, den gewünschten Bereich in kreisförmigen Bewegungen gleichmäßig zu erwärmen.

    do I have to use a heat gun

    Fabiola Winfield -

    yes it is crucial

    ben folks -

    but u can use a hair dryer on warm

    ben folks -

    I didn't use a heat gun but this was due to the glass being rather shattered and not just cracked in the corner. The rule of thumb might be to not use excessive force, if you see that you need to use the heat gun or a blow dryer as someone suggested. I also wanted to point out the the adhesive strip just around the edges was exposed and it is rather strong so I was able to pull it around part of the edge which actually helped the glass disengage.

    nirv -

    Hi, thanks to this tutorial achieves replace my iPod battery to 100%, it was difficult, so thanks iFixit!

    The only problem I had was with the iFixit screwdriver disappointed me greatly, as it can not remove the screws with the screwdriver.

    A tip for those who first make repairs before starting the disarmament carefully read through the tutorial to not make a mistake that could damage your iPod and do not forget to place pieces in a safe place so they are not lost.

    Greetings from Guatemala

    Alfonso.

    Alfonso Espinoza -

    well then u suck

    ben folks -

    Be careful with the heat gun!! Don`t use it too much. You can melt something inside, specially when you`re closing the iPod.

    Luiz R -

    No man you can use a blow dryer!

    Colton B -

    Would a heat bead bag be safer option to weaken the adhesive?

    Angus McLauchlan -

    I had success with as low as 80°C using a hair dryer to melt the adhesive, I kept track of it with a meat thermometer. The battery says it's rated only up to 60°C...

    micahvanderhill -

    I got through all the parts to take the wifi antenna out!! But, I'm having a hard time putting the stuff back!!

    ~Palm head~ But thank you ifixit for the great and awesome directions, I understand clearly!! Thank you very much

    Kaiden -

    A hairdryer perfectly does the job. I’d recommend heating the bottom for 20 seconds, then attempt at inserting a plastic pick between the glass and the chassis. If it doesn’t work, reapply some heat in 10 seconds intervals until the glue gives in. You shouldn’t have to exert lots of force to release the adhesive, heat should do the job.

    Then apply some heat to the top of the screen to release the remaining adhesive. Opening is straightforward. Just beware of the ultra little slack of the short yet fragile flexible digitizer cable.

    Olivier Biot -

    Thanks for the tip!

    Lua Tech -

  2. aVB4RjkdXJISDGRl
    aVB4RjkdXJISDGRl
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    • Pass auf, der iPod wird sehr heiß. Es erleichtert die Arbeit, wenn du ihn mit einem Tuch anfasst.

    • Setze die Kante eines Plastiköffnungswerkzeugs zwischen Frontscheibe und Plastikrahmen in der Nähe des Home Buttons ein.

    • Versuche nicht zwischen Plastikrahmen und dem Rückgehäuse aus Stahl zu hebeln.

    • Hebele die Unterkante der Frontscheibe nach oben. Sei dabei vorsichtig und biege das Glas nicht zu stark.

    • Wenn es zu schwer geht, musst du die Scheibe erneut erwärmen und es wieder probieren.

    There should be (in general) better notes about the reassembly process. Getting the thing glued back in is WAY harder than just "reverse this step." Getting it to sit flush with any kind of adhesion is pretty difficult. No real advice other than make sure the edges of the metal thing at the top of the back of the digitizer are in the right slots and use judiciously placed pieces of 3M 300LSE adhesive.

    jonathan -

    I actually just figured it out. I had the ribbon cable for the digitizer running under the LCD and that wasn't allowing the LCD to sit down far enough. By re-folding the digitizer cable so it was triple-folded (when you do it you'll see what I mean) and only under the glass where there is no LCD, you'll get the glass to sit right.

    jonathan -

    I'm havin' problems with mine... hum, the front panel broke and i don't know where can i buy a new one. Can you help me?! Detail, the Touch screen still working... the external screen is broken, but the internal is ok...

    Nathan Bergmann -

    EBay mate sells plenty

    Greg W -

    Glue is under the black part of the glass, not under the clear part of the glass.

    The Glue is mostly around the top and bottom about 1/2 inch in or so, around both left and right edges the strip of glue is very thin about 1/8 inch or so.

    I had success with heat and sliding the tool or pick up and down the side where there is less glue until it started separating being careful that I was between front glass panel and the black plastic bezel.

    Evon Waters -

    Take a look at the post What parts to move from the broken screen?

    That will give you some advice as to what to move over from the broken screen, metal bracket, home button and small sponge spacer on the tip of the digitizer connector. Also how important it is to use new adhesive. If after assembling the screen bulges on one side (top or bottom) take the time to dissasemble and check that everything is in place (flat) and like jonathan writes, the digitizer cable is folded.

    asle -

  3. 1Av4s1DKeDS53ugT

    • Wenn genug Platz ist, dass du die Unterkante der Frontscheibe anfassen kannst, dann hebe sie weg vom Gehäuse des iPod und löse so die Klebeverbindung an den Seitenkanten.

    • Wenn sich der Kleber nicht leicht lösen lässt, musst du erneut das Heißluftgebläse anwenden und den Klebstoff aufweichen.

  4. rB1cKPtjFemiqt2i
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    • Der iPod 4. Generation ist so konstruiert, dass sich das Kabel zum Digitizer nicht lösen lässt, bevor das Logic Board ausgebaut ist. Sei deswegen sehr vorsichtig beim Hantieren der Fronteinheit, da sie immer noch mit dem Rest des iPod über das sehr empfindliche Touchscreen Kabel angeschlossen ist.

    • Dieses Kabel ist auch sehr kurz und ist am Logic Board oben an der Fronteinheit angeschlossen. Wenn es sich nicht löst, während du die Oberkante der Fronteinheit löst, dann musst du es mit einem iPod-Öffnungswerkzeug auslösen, bevor du die Fronteinheit vom iPod herausdrehen kannst.

    • Ziehe vorsichtig die Fronteinheit oben weg von der Klebeverbindung, die es am iPod befestigt. Denke dabei an das kurze Touchscreen Kabel, welches die beiden Bauteile verbindet.

    The LCD cable which attaches to the logic board, is, indeed, very short. When reassembling the iPod, you may only be able to leave a small crack between the glass and the body to allow for enough space to reattach this cable. A plastic opening tool works well, but be warned: it takes quite a bit of patience.

    reidbauer -

    Indeed the LCD cable which attaches to the logic board is short and I spent a good 30 minutes trying to get it to seat. When I finally did I realized I broke the right side and that is why my display is not working now. When they say difficult, they mean difficult - I have experience with electronics and I recommend you first practice on an older unit if you can.

    kitlammers -

    Most guides recommend simply cutting the digitizer cable once you have disconnected the data cable. This makes things much simpler for subsequent steps rather than having the front panel dangling there.

    bowlingb -

    Before i do this repair, does my screen have to be all together. Because my iPod got cracked a while ago, so do i have to buy a new screen so i can put the jack in? Also what goes first in the process when doing both of those things ?

    Diondre Jordan -

    Reconnecting the data cable is actually pretty easy. Just hold your screen at a 90 degree angle and put it on your underlying surface (and not on the back part of your ipod). Then just use the opening tool to reconnect the cable. The cable is long enough. If you connected it properly try pushing the home button on the back part (not the actual button). If done properly, your screen should light up. (if not try again to connect the cable) Then just fold the screen onto the back part without lifting it. The cable disconnects very easily.

    12cw47 -

    Maybe if you could show an image pointing out the the digitizer and display cable. I missed the part that the display cable pops off, and didn't get to it until almost the end.

    jimjty -

  5. lftXchsPppTlFraq

    • Entferne folgende acht Kreuzschlitzschrauben #00:

    • Eine 3,5 mm Schraube

    • Zwei 3,0 mm Schrauben

    • Eine 2,3 mm Schraube

    • Eine 2,4 mm Schraube

    • Drei 2,0 mm Schrauben

    The antenna cable will almost always stick to the digitzer and often the glass is broken there. You can use a knife to pick out broken glass around the edges elsewhere but use ONLY PLASTIC tool to separate the antenna cable from the old digitzer. This cable is very thin and a metal tool can easily cut the cable which you cannot then repair but must buy a replacement.

    asle -

    If you are removing broken glass be sure to recover the steel plate glued to the top of glass as well as the home button at the bottom of the assembly.

    Mark -

    This steel plate or bracket has been discussed many times here. My best experience is to NOT move it to a new screen. Without the bracket and using enough adhesive in fact brings the new screen closer to the chassis and a snugger fit. Read more here: What parts to move from the broken screen?

    asle -

    Notice, in the image the switch for the home button has a tiny sub-1mm dot in the center of it. When I reassembled the home button did not work. That tiny cylinder of material had been knocked off the switch. A rounded probe could still activate the switch, but the flat metal plate on the home button could not. Fortunately, I was working on a white cloth, and a careful search turned up the tiny cylinder. I was able to reattach it and repair the home button.

    ciradrak -

    I would like to add that the tiny cylinder is 0.65mm in diameter and 0.20mm high. I was able to successfully reattach it using a thick cyanoacrylate. You must be careful not to foul the switch's membrane with too much glue. I would suggest using fine point tweezers and a metal probe to apply the tiny dot of glue. You need a steady hand for this.

    ciradrak -

  6. OFdlRegKqwsrgiVH

    • Hebele mit einem iPod Öffnungswerkzeug die dünne Stahlabdeckung von der Rückkamera hoch.

    • Achte auf die kleine Feder in der Blende in der Nähe der Kamera. (gelb markiert)

    • Entferne die Stahlabdeckung vom iPod.

    Be sure to get the tool down deep when removing the rear camera. If not, you can accidentally snag the mid-section of the camera and it will come apart -- and you'll end up buying a replacement.

    Country Computer Service -

    I have snagged that part of the camera several times. Easy to fix with super-glue along the edges of the cover. Works great. Sometimes no matter how carefully you pry up it falls apart.

    asle -

    This metal plate fits under plastic near RHS edge, and other side drops between the camera and a circuit board - to refit, you may need to loosen a nearby screw to allow you to move the circuit board a little to let this metal plate clip onto the side of the camera.

    I had to press down hard with a plastic tool to get this metal plate to clip on.

    Don't forget to re-tighten it later (I forgot).

    phil colbourn -

    A strip metallic cover, glued to display isn't mentioned in this guide.

    Note that most new front panels are going without this part and you would need to remount it.

    Daniel Filatov -

    what exactly is the copper tape for that sits over the backplate that covers the rear camera? it gives me trouble every time.

    yhwhelrey0 -

    The copper is important for heat dispensing. It has nothing to do with grounding or signal. In worst case if it is torn the Touch could get hotter but should work. If it is torn I usually just lift up one part and move it so it is in contact with the other copper part.

    asle -

    I just replaced the screen and rear cam on my 4th gen. The camera does not work??? Any ideas????????

    mark -

    Maybe the rear camera connection got loose when you lifted up the logic board in top to replace the digitizer. I would open it again and check the connection to the rear camera. Hope you fix it!

    asle -

  7. 4WTAQVVIeMwA4FWS
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    • Setze die Kante eines iPod-Öffnungswerkzeugs unter die Zwischenplatte aus Stahl in der Nähe der unteren linken Ecke des iPod.

    • Heble nach oben, um die Platte aus der Klebeverbindung, welche sie am inneren Kunststoffgehäuse befestigt, zu befreien.

    • Wenn die Platte trotzdem noch am Logic Board festhängt, dann erwärme den Bereich erneut, um den Klebstoff aufzuweichen. Löse dann die Platte mit dem Öffnungswerkzeug ab.

    • Unter der Platte ist ein dünnes und empfindliches Flachbandkabel. Achte beim Hochhebeln der Platte darauf, dass es nicht zerreißt.

    • Dieses Kabel kann an der Platte festkleben und zerreißt leicht, wenn du nicht aufpasst. Arbeite langsam und belaste das Kabel nicht zu stark.

    I couldn't get a spudger in-between this space, so I went to the side where the three screws were on the left hand side and worked my way towards the bottom to separate the glue...

    Kevin Hulett -

    The power and volume wire on the logic board were covered with adhesive. Be careful! While trying to remove the steel mid plane I found that the adhesive will rip the ribbon!

    Chris Boenitz -

    Here is where you take it easy. Two things can be broken here.

    -Use time to carefully separate the bottom left part of the midplane. It sticks to the speaker which you tear the speaker leads if you are to hasty to lift it up. And remember the mid plane must not be bended up here since it needs to be 100% aligned so the new digitizer does not bulge here when in place.

    - The second picture. The black visible adhesive sticks to the volume cable. Use time to carefully separate the mid plane here so the cable is not ripped when you lift up the midplane. Pry a plastic tool like the picture or/and a spudger slowly in until you see/feel the midplane loosening. A broken volume cable is no fun.

    asle -

    as stated before, be very careful with the part at the speaker.

    the speaker actually sticks to the mid plane and i accidentally lifted it with the plane and separated one cable from the board!

    stan -

    That small ribbon cable ripped, be sure to really watch this - look at the second picture in this step and try to make sure you understand where it is on the board under it.

    kitlammers -

    This was difficult during both disassembly and reassembly. I used a thin guitar pick to separate the ribbon cable by the volume buttons from the steel midplane. Reassembly was tough because I didn't have the ipod dock connector seated correctly, AND more importantly, the speaker has a part that needs to be inserted into a black part on TOP of the dock connector-- it looks almost like a tiny air duct that has a foam gasket around it.

    Nik -

    I was able to replace the home button ribbon cable without having to fully remove the steel mid plane. It lifted up enough from the iPod's body that I was able to slip the ribbon in around the support it sticks to and hold it in place until the adhesive set.

    Much simpler, and didn't cause any problems -- the mid plane didn't deform, and snapped right back into place.

    Thanks for the guide.

    jon -

    Unfortunately there was so much glue on the tiny power/volume button ribbon cable that any attempt at removing the steel cover plate would eventually rip that cable at the 4 solder joints. A picture of that cable would help tearing down more securely.

    Is there a way to repair the torn ribbon cable or should I consider my iPod as dead now?

    Olivier Biot -

  8. guFWFbjHNalPtVJ6
    guFWFbjHNalPtVJ6
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    • Kippe die Zwischenplatte aus Stahl leicht, um sie vom Rückgehäuse zu lösen.

    • Sei vorsichtig und zerreiße nicht das Stückchen Kupferband, welches die Rückkamera mit der Zwischenplatte aus Stahl verbindet.

    • Hebe die Zwischenplatte aus Stahl aus dem Rückgehäuse hoch. Löse das Stück Kupferband ab, welches an der Rückkamera festklebt.

    I was able to stop at step 8 for the battery replacement.

    Once you remove the metal shield, desolder the 3 leads. Then use your heat gun to warm the battery. Use plastic pry tool between copper backing and battery and separate them (two adhesive strips on the sides of the battery). Once done with this, you can snake the battery ribbon cable from between the logic board and aluminum casing. Not as easily, but still very doable, snake the new battery ribbon back through the same slot; solder 3 points and reassemble. Much easier than removing the entire board. Good luck!

    Oh also, not mentioned in this guide - there is a plastic/silicon substance covering the 3 leads. Prior to desoldering remove this as much as possible with metal or plastic spudger (if metal, be sure not to bridge the connections).

    Syl2us -

    I stopped dismantling here as well and was able to replace the battery and everything works on the ipod. tricky parts for me were the copper adhesive on the rear camera and getting the data display cable reconnected

    I used plenty of heat first heating the ipod in an industrial oven to about 150 F and then as needed heating a heat gun.

    dhawke -

    what do you do if you break the copper connector to the camera?

    justinallison1 -

    The copper tape is mainly for heat dispersion. Without the copper tape it should work anyway but I would just lift up and move one part of the tape so that it is in contact with the other part when you put it together.

    asle -

    justinallison1, From what I understand, it is ok if that copper tape rips. In fact, I have seen people remove it completely. If it rips, just try and have the 2 pieces touching. (This is what I have researched and done myself with no negative results.

    Katie Kousoulos -

    after removed the steel mid plate, does anybody measure the battery voltage? I measured the battery voltage is only 0.3V. is it normal? I de-soldered the battery three points and measured the battery voltage 3.8V. So It looks like battery is OK. The logic board has problem. So I connected external power source 3.7V and maximum current 50mA to the battery B+ and B-. I found the power source dropped to only 1.65V and 50mA. Could I say logic board has problem?

    William -

    i break the copper connector to the camera then i do, does home button work?

    Arsh -

    The copper tape is really not a connector. It is a heat shield that spreads heat. Just try to attach it so it overlaps. It does not affect any connection.

    asle -

  9. nAbATLWWGyLrkYmi

    • Entferne die folgenden drei Kreuzschlitzschrauben nahe der Oberkante des Logic Boards:

    • Eine 2,0 mm Schraube

    • Zwei 2,3 mm Schrauben

    Can you use the same colour coding as with The above sizes? [HvL]

    Hugo van Leeuwen -

    These colors are too close together.. One red, two yellow.. Please.

    playpets106 -

    Thanks for the comment! I adjusted that step, should be much easier to see now.

    If you're ever having trouble seeing screw markers or other small details on a step, you can always view a larger version of the image with the "View Huge" link on the top left corner of the image.

    Andrew Optimus Goldheart -

    Can someone explain what the copper/ribbon is that the lower yellow marked screw goes through is for? Perhaps only heat dissipation? The ipod I have was given to me with much of the glass smashed and picked out, so some of this is just missing. Obviously I can't put it back...

    hutchwilco -

  10. xHWqjqC6SiC5DIsQ

    • Hebele die Rückkamera mit der Kante eines iPod-Öffnungswerkzeugs weg vom Rückgehäuse, entferne sie aber nicht.

    • Versuche noch nicht die Rückkamera zu entfernen.

    When you insert your tool to remove the rear camera make sure you have the tip all the way in. You can accidentally grab the middle of the camera assembly and it will come apart - and you'll have to replace the entire camera.

    Country Computer Service -

    hi! i accidentally cut the copper adhesive on rear camera, and now it doesn't work: i start the app "camera" and it opens but still close the lens... can i fix it ? if yes, how? thanks

    simone usala -

  11. PBlQd1ZxMMBBvfIe
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    • Hebe die Kante des Logic Boards nahe am Akku mit einem iPod-Öffnungswerkzeug etwas an, so dasss du sie mit der Hand fassen kannst.

    • Biege dabei das Logic Board nicht zu stark, es ist sehr dünn und zerbrechlich.

    • Sei sehr vorsichtig und hebe nicht zu stark an. Das Flachbandkabel zu den Lautstärkereglern ist noch angeschlossen und zerreißt sehr leicht.

    • Hebe das Logic Board weiterhin mit einer Hand hoch und benutze ein iPod-Öffnungswerkzeug, um das Logic Board in der Nähe des Kupferbands an der Oberkante des Logic Boards anzuheben.

    • Das Logic Board lässt sich gleichmäßig hochheben, wenn der letzte Stecker der Displayeinheit von der Oberkante des Rückgehäuses freigekommen ist.

    Use extreme caution when lifting the board. There are 2 ribbon cables that are extremely fragile, 1 connecting the rear facing camera and another connects the volume controller flex on the logic board.

    Evon Waters -

    Adding to Evon's comment:

    BEFORE YOU LIFT UP THAT BOARD...

    Use your plastic pry tool and make sure the flex cable, between the board and power button is not on top of the board. Take your time because even the slightest snag can tear that flex cable which leads to de-soldering/soldering the battery & flex cable.

    Once the board is lifted the first time I usually put a piece of Kapton tape over that area of the cable in case it has to be pulled up again.

    Country Computer Service -

    Can you explain this in a little more detail?

    I have done a dozen or more iPod screens without any issue. I have one here now that does nothing. Just a black screen. It won't even take a charge.

    Should I simply desolder those pads and then resolder? Sort of like unplugging and replugging to reset something?

    Thanks!

    Rene

    Rene Jeddore -

    Ciao dopo aver seguito il tuo aiuto per come cambiare la batteria io ho rimontato tutto ma la barra di sblocco non scorre più o i comandi in quella altezza del touch , tutto il resto funziona perfettamente.Dove potrei aver sbagliato?

    Potete aiutarmi grazie

    salvatore sagone -

    I placed a penny between the battery and board and it held it in place at just the right height.

    gcroley -

    I was so so so so careful when lifting the logic board past the flex cable on the power button. Before final assembly, plugged it all in to test and it booted OK. LCD and Digitizer worked. Went to power it off and found the power button wouldn't work. Sure enough, the tiny (<0.5mm) strip of copper in that power flex cable had torn right through. About to pitch this rotten, stinking thing across the back yard into the trees. I've spent 5 hours of my life fixing this today! Aaargh!!!!!

    Squonky -

    On this step i broke the entire board, so it now is a Apple Galaxy Fold, also the battery exploded .-.

    Ferx 7 -

  12. AF5vVVkaHoRsoYRO
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    • Ziehe mit einem iPod-Öffnungswerkzeug die Kante des gelben Kaptonbands ab, welches die Rückkamera und das Logic Board bedeckt.

    • Ziehe das Kaptonband auch von der Unterseite des Steckers der Rückkamera ab.

    • Fasse das Kaptonband mit einer Pinzette an und entferne es von der Oberseite des Steckers der Rückkamera.

  13. ygCKhZrHUwXv3AtE
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    • Hebele den Stecker der Rückkamera mit einem iPod-Öffnungswerkzeug aus seinem Sockel auf dem Logic Board.

    • Entferne die Rückkamera vom iPod Touch.

Abschluss

Um dein Gerät wieder zusammenzusetzen, folge den Schritten in umgekehrter Reihenfolge.

Tinte & Feder

Walter Galan

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