iPod Touch 4th Generation Volume/Power Button Cable Replacement

Geschrieben von: Jake Devincenzi
  • Kommentare: 82
iPod Touch 4th Generation Volume/Power Button Cable Replacement

Schwierigkeitsgrad

Very difficult

Schritte

30

Zeitaufwand

35 - 40 Minuten

Einleitung

This guide will help you replace the Volume/Power Button Cable. Warning: This guide requires soldering.

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    • The iPod Touch 4th Generation front panel is attached to the rear case by adhesive. The use of a heat gun to soften the adhesive is highly recommended.

    • With the heat gun set on "low", begin heating the lower portion of the Touch near the home button.

    • It is suggested to heat the desired portion in a circular motion pattern to evenly dissipate the amount of heat throughout the device.

    do I have to use a heat gun

    Fabiola Winfield -

    yes it is crucial

    ben folks -

    but u can use a hair dryer on warm

    ben folks -

    I didn't use a heat gun but this was due to the glass being rather shattered and not just cracked in the corner. The rule of thumb might be to not use excessive force, if you see that you need to use the heat gun or a blow dryer as someone suggested. I also wanted to point out the the adhesive strip just around the edges was exposed and it is rather strong so I was able to pull it around part of the edge which actually helped the glass disengage.

    nirv -

    Hi, thanks to this tutorial achieves replace my iPod battery to 100%, it was difficult, so thanks iFixit!

    The only problem I had was with the iFixit screwdriver disappointed me greatly, as it can not remove the screws with the screwdriver.

    A tip for those who first make repairs before starting the disarmament carefully read through the tutorial to not make a mistake that could damage your iPod and do not forget to place pieces in a safe place so they are not lost.

    Greetings from Guatemala

    Alfonso.

    Alfonso Espinoza -

    well then u suck

    ben folks -

    Be careful with the heat gun!! Don`t use it too much. You can melt something inside, specially when you`re closing the iPod.

    Luiz R -

    No man you can use a blow dryer!

    Colton B -

    Would a heat bead bag be safer option to weaken the adhesive?

    Angus McLauchlan -

    I had success with as low as 80°C using a hair dryer to melt the adhesive, I kept track of it with a meat thermometer. The battery says it's rated only up to 60°C...

    micahvanderhill -

    I got through all the parts to take the wifi antenna out!! But, I'm having a hard time putting the stuff back!!

    ~Palm head~ But thank you ifixit for the great and awesome directions, I understand clearly!! Thank you very much

    Kaiden -

    A hairdryer perfectly does the job. I’d recommend heating the bottom for 20 seconds, then attempt at inserting a plastic pick between the glass and the chassis. If it doesn’t work, reapply some heat in 10 seconds intervals until the glue gives in. You shouldn’t have to exert lots of force to release the adhesive, heat should do the job.

    Then apply some heat to the top of the screen to release the remaining adhesive. Opening is straightforward. Just beware of the ultra little slack of the short yet fragile flexible digitizer cable.

    Olivier Biot -

    Thanks for the tip!

    Lua Tech -

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    • Beware, as the Touch will be very hot. It may be helpful to hold it with a towel while prying.

    • Insert the edge of an iPod opening tool between the front glass panel and the plastic bezel near the home button.

    • Do not try to pry between the plastic bezel and the steel rear case.

    • Pry the bottom edge of the front panel upward, being careful not to bend the glass excessively.

    • If it is too difficult to pry up the front panel assembly, reheat it and try again.

    There should be (in general) better notes about the reassembly process. Getting the thing glued back in is WAY harder than just "reverse this step." Getting it to sit flush with any kind of adhesion is pretty difficult. No real advice other than make sure the edges of the metal thing at the top of the back of the digitizer are in the right slots and use judiciously placed pieces of 3M 300LSE adhesive.

    jonathan -

    I actually just figured it out. I had the ribbon cable for the digitizer running under the LCD and that wasn't allowing the LCD to sit down far enough. By re-folding the digitizer cable so it was triple-folded (when you do it you'll see what I mean) and only under the glass where there is no LCD, you'll get the glass to sit right.

    jonathan -

    I'm havin' problems with mine... hum, the front panel broke and i don't know where can i buy a new one. Can you help me?! Detail, the Touch screen still working... the external screen is broken, but the internal is ok...

    Nathan Bergmann -

    EBay mate sells plenty

    Greg W -

    Glue is under the black part of the glass, not under the clear part of the glass.

    The Glue is mostly around the top and bottom about 1/2 inch in or so, around both left and right edges the strip of glue is very thin about 1/8 inch or so.

    I had success with heat and sliding the tool or pick up and down the side where there is less glue until it started separating being careful that I was between front glass panel and the black plastic bezel.

    Evon Waters -

    Take a look at the post What parts to move from the broken screen?

    That will give you some advice as to what to move over from the broken screen, metal bracket, home button and small sponge spacer on the tip of the digitizer connector. Also how important it is to use new adhesive. If after assembling the screen bulges on one side (top or bottom) take the time to dissasemble and check that everything is in place (flat) and like jonathan writes, the digitizer cable is folded.

    asle -

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    • When there is enough room to grab the bottom edge of the front panel, lift it away from the body of the Touch to peel up the adhesive along its left and right edges.

    • If the adhesive is too difficult to separate, use a heat gun to soften it before proceeding.

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    • Due to the construction of the 4th generation Touch, the digitizer cable cannot be disconnected until the logic board is removed. Use extreme caution when handling the front panel assembly, as it is attached to the rest of the Touch by the very delicate digitizer cable.

    • Also, the display data cable is very short and is connected to the logic board near the top of the front panel assembly. If it does not become disconnected while freeing the top edge of the front panel assembly, be sure to disconnect it with an iPod opening tool before rotating the front panel assembly out of the Touch.

    • Carefully pull the top of the front panel assembly away from the adhesive holding it to the Touch, minding the short digitizer cable connecting the two components.

    The LCD cable which attaches to the logic board, is, indeed, very short. When reassembling the iPod, you may only be able to leave a small crack between the glass and the body to allow for enough space to reattach this cable. A plastic opening tool works well, but be warned: it takes quite a bit of patience.

    reidbauer -

    Indeed the LCD cable which attaches to the logic board is short and I spent a good 30 minutes trying to get it to seat. When I finally did I realized I broke the right side and that is why my display is not working now. When they say difficult, they mean difficult - I have experience with electronics and I recommend you first practice on an older unit if you can.

    kitlammers -

    Most guides recommend simply cutting the digitizer cable once you have disconnected the data cable. This makes things much simpler for subsequent steps rather than having the front panel dangling there.

    bowlingb -

    Before i do this repair, does my screen have to be all together. Because my iPod got cracked a while ago, so do i have to buy a new screen so i can put the jack in? Also what goes first in the process when doing both of those things ?

    Diondre Jordan -

    Reconnecting the data cable is actually pretty easy. Just hold your screen at a 90 degree angle and put it on your underlying surface (and not on the back part of your ipod). Then just use the opening tool to reconnect the cable. The cable is long enough. If you connected it properly try pushing the home button on the back part (not the actual button). If done properly, your screen should light up. (if not try again to connect the cable) Then just fold the screen onto the back part without lifting it. The cable disconnects very easily.

    12cw47 -

    Maybe if you could show an image pointing out the the digitizer and display cable. I missed the part that the display cable pops off, and didn't get to it until almost the end.

    jimjty -

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    • Remove the following eight Phillips #00 screws:

    • One 3.5 mm Phillips screw

    • Two 3.0 mm Phillips screws

    • One 2.3 mm Phillips screw

    • One 2.4 mm Phillips screw

    • Three 2.0 mm Phillips screws

    The antenna cable will almost always stick to the digitzer and often the glass is broken there. You can use a knife to pick out broken glass around the edges elsewhere but use ONLY PLASTIC tool to separate the antenna cable from the old digitzer. This cable is very thin and a metal tool can easily cut the cable which you cannot then repair but must buy a replacement.

    asle -

    If you are removing broken glass be sure to recover the steel plate glued to the top of glass as well as the home button at the bottom of the assembly.

    Mark -

    This steel plate or bracket has been discussed many times here. My best experience is to NOT move it to a new screen. Without the bracket and using enough adhesive in fact brings the new screen closer to the chassis and a snugger fit. Read more here: What parts to move from the broken screen?

    asle -

    Notice, in the image the switch for the home button has a tiny sub-1mm dot in the center of it. When I reassembled the home button did not work. That tiny cylinder of material had been knocked off the switch. A rounded probe could still activate the switch, but the flat metal plate on the home button could not. Fortunately, I was working on a white cloth, and a careful search turned up the tiny cylinder. I was able to reattach it and repair the home button.

    ciradrak -

    I would like to add that the tiny cylinder is 0.65mm in diameter and 0.20mm high. I was able to successfully reattach it using a thick cyanoacrylate. You must be careful not to foul the switch's membrane with too much glue. I would suggest using fine point tweezers and a metal probe to apply the tiny dot of glue. You need a steady hand for this.

    ciradrak -

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    • Use the edge of an iPod opening tool to pry the thin steel cover up from the rear-facing camera.

    • Note the small spring located near the bezel next to the camera (highlighted in yellow).

    • Remove the steel cover from the iPod.

    Be sure to get the tool down deep when removing the rear camera. If not, you can accidentally snag the mid-section of the camera and it will come apart -- and you'll end up buying a replacement.

    Country Computer Service -

    I have snagged that part of the camera several times. Easy to fix with super-glue along the edges of the cover. Works great. Sometimes no matter how carefully you pry up it falls apart.

    asle -

    This metal plate fits under plastic near RHS edge, and other side drops between the camera and a circuit board - to refit, you may need to loosen a nearby screw to allow you to move the circuit board a little to let this metal plate clip onto the side of the camera.

    I had to press down hard with a plastic tool to get this metal plate to clip on.

    Don't forget to re-tighten it later (I forgot).

    phil colbourn -

    A strip metallic cover, glued to display isn't mentioned in this guide.

    Note that most new front panels are going without this part and you would need to remount it.

    Daniel Filatov -

    what exactly is the copper tape for that sits over the backplate that covers the rear camera? it gives me trouble every time.

    yhwhelrey0 -

    The copper is important for heat dispensing. It has nothing to do with grounding or signal. In worst case if it is torn the Touch could get hotter but should work. If it is torn I usually just lift up one part and move it so it is in contact with the other copper part.

    asle -

    I just replaced the screen and rear cam on my 4th gen. The camera does not work??? Any ideas????????

    mark -

    Maybe the rear camera connection got loose when you lifted up the logic board in top to replace the digitizer. I would open it again and check the connection to the rear camera. Hope you fix it!

    asle -

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    • Insert the edge of an opening tool under the steel mid plate near the bottom left corner of the Touch.

    • Slowly pry upward to separate the plate from the adhesive securing it to the plastic inner case.

    • If the plate is still attached to the logic board, re-warm the area to loosen the adhesive, then slowly separate the plate from the logic board using the opening tool.

    • There is a thin, fragile ribbon cable underneath the plate. As you pry the plate up, be very careful not to rip the cable.

    • This cable may stick to the plate and will tear very easily if you're not careful. Work slowly and be careful not to strain the cable.

    I couldn't get a spudger in-between this space, so I went to the side where the three screws were on the left hand side and worked my way towards the bottom to separate the glue...

    Kevin Hulett -

    The power and volume wire on the logic board were covered with adhesive. Be careful! While trying to remove the steel mid plane I found that the adhesive will rip the ribbon!

    Chris Boenitz -

    Here is where you take it easy. Two things can be broken here.

    -Use time to carefully separate the bottom left part of the midplane. It sticks to the speaker which you tear the speaker leads if you are to hasty to lift it up. And remember the mid plane must not be bended up here since it needs to be 100% aligned so the new digitizer does not bulge here when in place.

    - The second picture. The black visible adhesive sticks to the volume cable. Use time to carefully separate the mid plane here so the cable is not ripped when you lift up the midplane. Pry a plastic tool like the picture or/and a spudger slowly in until you see/feel the midplane loosening. A broken volume cable is no fun.

    asle -

    as stated before, be very careful with the part at the speaker.

    the speaker actually sticks to the mid plane and i accidentally lifted it with the plane and separated one cable from the board!

    stan -

    That small ribbon cable ripped, be sure to really watch this - look at the second picture in this step and try to make sure you understand where it is on the board under it.

    kitlammers -

    This was difficult during both disassembly and reassembly. I used a thin guitar pick to separate the ribbon cable by the volume buttons from the steel midplane. Reassembly was tough because I didn't have the ipod dock connector seated correctly, AND more importantly, the speaker has a part that needs to be inserted into a black part on TOP of the dock connector-- it looks almost like a tiny air duct that has a foam gasket around it.

    Nik -

    I was able to replace the home button ribbon cable without having to fully remove the steel mid plane. It lifted up enough from the iPod's body that I was able to slip the ribbon in around the support it sticks to and hold it in place until the adhesive set.

    Much simpler, and didn't cause any problems -- the mid plane didn't deform, and snapped right back into place.

    Thanks for the guide.

    jon -

    Unfortunately there was so much glue on the tiny power/volume button ribbon cable that any attempt at removing the steel cover plate would eventually rip that cable at the 4 solder joints. A picture of that cable would help tearing down more securely.

    Is there a way to repair the torn ribbon cable or should I consider my iPod as dead now?

    Olivier Biot -

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    • Slightly tilt the steel mid plane to dislodge it from the rear case.

    • Be careful not to tear the piece of copper tape connecting the rear-facing camera to the steel mid plane.

    • Lift the steel mid plane up off the rear case and peel off the piece of copper tape stuck to the rear-facing camera.

    I was able to stop at step 8 for the battery replacement.

    Once you remove the metal shield, desolder the 3 leads. Then use your heat gun to warm the battery. Use plastic pry tool between copper backing and battery and separate them (two adhesive strips on the sides of the battery). Once done with this, you can snake the battery ribbon cable from between the logic board and aluminum casing. Not as easily, but still very doable, snake the new battery ribbon back through the same slot; solder 3 points and reassemble. Much easier than removing the entire board. Good luck!

    Oh also, not mentioned in this guide - there is a plastic/silicon substance covering the 3 leads. Prior to desoldering remove this as much as possible with metal or plastic spudger (if metal, be sure not to bridge the connections).

    Syl2us -

    I stopped dismantling here as well and was able to replace the battery and everything works on the ipod. tricky parts for me were the copper adhesive on the rear camera and getting the data display cable reconnected

    I used plenty of heat first heating the ipod in an industrial oven to about 150 F and then as needed heating a heat gun.

    dhawke -

    what do you do if you break the copper connector to the camera?

    justinallison1 -

    The copper tape is mainly for heat dispersion. Without the copper tape it should work anyway but I would just lift up and move one part of the tape so that it is in contact with the other part when you put it together.

    asle -

    justinallison1, From what I understand, it is ok if that copper tape rips. In fact, I have seen people remove it completely. If it rips, just try and have the 2 pieces touching. (This is what I have researched and done myself with no negative results.

    Katie Kousoulos -

    after removed the steel mid plate, does anybody measure the battery voltage? I measured the battery voltage is only 0.3V. is it normal? I de-soldered the battery three points and measured the battery voltage 3.8V. So It looks like battery is OK. The logic board has problem. So I connected external power source 3.7V and maximum current 50mA to the battery B+ and B-. I found the power source dropped to only 1.65V and 50mA. Could I say logic board has problem?

    William -

    i break the copper connector to the camera then i do, does home button work?

    Arsh -

    The copper tape is really not a connector. It is a heat shield that spreads heat. Just try to attach it so it overlaps. It does not affect any connection.

    asle -

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    • Use an iPod opening tool to pry the headphone jack connector up and out of its socket on the logic board.

    I was able to ply the battery out slowly, without removing the logic board because the battery was so swollen. Just started by prying it out using the side of the case, not the logic board, and it peeled out slowly. As mentioned further down in the instructions, the copper flashing had to be pushed back into shape. The battery unsoldered easily, lifting as described. Just slip the flexible conductor from the battery out from under the logic board.

    It powers up without a battery if you need to get data off the iPod.

    Tom Thompson -

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    • Remove the single 2.6 mm Phillips screw securing the headphone jack assembly to the rear case.

    • The screw is at a 90 degree angle. Make sure to remove it at such an angle.

    Be sure to note the way the ribbon cable bends between the connector and the rest of the jack assembly. Bending your new one in the same manner while hooking up the connector should make it a lot easier make the connection.

    matthew r -

    That "90 degrees screw" doesn't come out! What I have to do? Die Kacke ist am dampfen!

    0815Hater -

    It came out! Thank you for nothing! Die Kacke ehat aufgehört zu dampfen! Sorry for my english!

    0815Hater -

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    • Use an iPod opening tool to gently lift the edge of the headphone jack nearest the battery out of its recess.

    • Remove the headphone jack from its housing within the rear case.

    This was the hardest Part

    Charlie Baldwin -

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    • Remove the following three screws near the top edge of the logic board:

    • One 2.0 mm Phillips screw

    • Two 2.3 mm Phillips screws

    Can you use the same colour coding as with The above sizes? [HvL]

    Hugo van Leeuwen -

    These colors are too close together.. One red, two yellow.. Please.

    playpets106 -

    Thanks for the comment! I adjusted that step, should be much easier to see now.

    If you're ever having trouble seeing screw markers or other small details on a step, you can always view a larger version of the image with the "View Huge" link on the top left corner of the image.

    Andrew Optimus Goldheart -

    Can someone explain what the copper/ribbon is that the lower yellow marked screw goes through is for? Perhaps only heat dissipation? The ipod I have was given to me with much of the glass smashed and picked out, so some of this is just missing. Obviously I can't put it back...

    hutchwilco -

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    • Use the edge of an iPod opening tool to gently pry, but not remove, the rear-facing camera away from the rear case.

    • Do not attempt to remove the rear-facing camera yet.

    When you insert your tool to remove the rear camera make sure you have the tip all the way in. You can accidentally grab the middle of the camera assembly and it will come apart - and you'll have to replace the entire camera.

    Country Computer Service -

    hi! i accidentally cut the copper adhesive on rear camera, and now it doesn't work: i start the app "camera" and it opens but still close the lens... can i fix it ? if yes, how? thanks

    simone usala -

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    • Use an iPod opening tool to slightly lift the edge of the logic board next to the battery enough to grab it with your other hand.

    • Do not excessively bend the logic board, as it is very thin and fragile.

    • Be very careful not to lift too much as the volume control ribbon cable is still connected and will tear very easily.

    • While gently lifting the logic board with one hand, use an iPod opening tool to lift the logic board near the copper tape at the logic board's top edge.

    • The logic board will be lifted adequately when the last display assembly connector has cleared the top edge of the rear case.

    Use extreme caution when lifting the board. There are 2 ribbon cables that are extremely fragile, 1 connecting the rear facing camera and another connects the volume controller flex on the logic board.

    Evon Waters -

    Adding to Evon's comment:

    BEFORE YOU LIFT UP THAT BOARD...

    Use your plastic pry tool and make sure the flex cable, between the board and power button is not on top of the board. Take your time because even the slightest snag can tear that flex cable which leads to de-soldering/soldering the battery & flex cable.

    Once the board is lifted the first time I usually put a piece of Kapton tape over that area of the cable in case it has to be pulled up again.

    Country Computer Service -

    Can you explain this in a little more detail?

    I have done a dozen or more iPod screens without any issue. I have one here now that does nothing. Just a black screen. It won't even take a charge.

    Should I simply desolder those pads and then resolder? Sort of like unplugging and replugging to reset something?

    Thanks!

    Rene

    Rene Jeddore -

    Ciao dopo aver seguito il tuo aiuto per come cambiare la batteria io ho rimontato tutto ma la barra di sblocco non scorre più o i comandi in quella altezza del touch , tutto il resto funziona perfettamente.Dove potrei aver sbagliato?

    Potete aiutarmi grazie

    salvatore sagone -

    I placed a penny between the battery and board and it held it in place at just the right height.

    gcroley -

    I was so so so so careful when lifting the logic board past the flex cable on the power button. Before final assembly, plugged it all in to test and it booted OK. LCD and Digitizer worked. Went to power it off and found the power button wouldn't work. Sure enough, the tiny (<0.5mm) strip of copper in that power flex cable had torn right through. About to pitch this rotten, stinking thing across the back yard into the trees. I've spent 5 hours of my life fixing this today! Aaargh!!!!!

    Squonky -

    On this step i broke the entire board, so it now is a Apple Galaxy Fold, also the battery exploded .-.

    Ferx 7 -

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    • With a plastic opening tool, gently pry the iPod's speaker out of its recess in the outer case.

    • Do not try to completely remove the speaker. It is still soldered to the underside of the logic board.

    • Allow the speaker to rest above the battery so that you can proceed with battery installation.

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    • In the next few steps, you will loosen the adhesive from underneath the battery, the logic board, and the frame under the battery. Do this slowly, carefully, and evenly. Take care not to puncture the battery or bend the logic board.

    • Use a plastic opening tool to pry up the adhesive around the three exposed edges of the battery.

    • Do not try to pry the battery out, just start loosening the adhesive.

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    • After the edges of the battery are loosened, begin prying up the edge of the logic board. Start at the top and work your way down the side of the board.

    • To prevent bending/breaking the logic board, do not try to remove the logic board, yet. The dock connector is still embedded in the frame. Again, you are only trying to loosen more of the adhesive.

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    • With a plastic opening tool, carefully push the dock connector out of its outer case recess. Work each corner evenly until the connector comes free.

    • Since the dock connector is attached to the logic board, pushing it out of the case may cause the logic board to begin to flex. Take extra care not to permanently warp the board.

    This was the hardest step for me. I ended up snapping the mother board at the corner because the adhesive just suddenly released. I wish there were a few more pictures and pointers on how to remove the charging port. Does anyone know a good place to get a cheap 32 GB mother board??

    Damon -

    Existe cola embaixo do conector, por isso, a dificuldade em retirá-lo. Eu aconselho, um pequeno aquecimento com a pistola de calor, na parte traseira da carcaça, antes de tentar a remoção do conector.

    mpcellmendes -

    For Step 17, just slip a length of waxed dental floss under the top left and right corners of the battery, slowly slide down the back of the battery with a sawing motion. All the adhesive will be seperated w/out any risk of bending the board or puncturing the battery. Charging port will now be easily removed.

    carol -

    Well Done! Nice to see extra ideas for Steps as it can make the process much better. Thank u!

    Vicki -

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    • Once all of the adhesive is freed from under the logic board/battery assembly, lift the assembly up from the side and carefully rotate it over to access the underside of the battery.

    • The logic board is still attached to the rear case. Do not try to completely separate the assembly, or you will rip this ribbon cable.

    At this step there should be indicated much clearer in BOLD YELLOW RED what ever to turn the logic board instead of removing, since it VERY easily will break the ribbon.

    Fboecom -

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    • Remove the two 1.3 mm Phillips #00 screws securing the Volume/Power button cable metal cover.

    • Lift and remove the metal cover out from the rear panel assembly.

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    • With the corner of a plastic opening tool, gently move the ribbon cable out of the way so you can get to the screw beneath it.

    • You do not need to bend or rip the cable, just move it enough to access the screw.

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    • Remove the two 2.0 mm Phillips screws securing the power button assembly to the rear panel assembly.

    dove posso trovare questo pannello posteriore montato con 2 viti

    antoniocongiu -

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    • Use the edge of a plastic opening tool to peel the piece of copper tape covering the volume/power button assembly.

    • LIft and remove the piece of copper tape out of the Touch.

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    • Slide the plastic opening tool under the length of the ribbon cable to release it from the rear panel.

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    • Wedge the plastic opening tool under each volume controller and pry the assembly loose from the case.

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    • Flip the logic board/battery assembly over to access the ribbon cable solder joints.

    • In the next few steps, you will desolder the four volume/power button ribbon cable solder joints on the logic board.

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    • The volume/power button cable is attached via solder pads with small holes that go through the cable and attach to flat pads on the face of the logic board. In this step, you will heat each solder pad individually while using a metal spudger to pry it up from the logic board.

    • DO NOT bridge the connection between the solder pads both on the board and on the ribbon cable with your spudger. Shorts have the potential to ruin the logic board.

    • Beware of overheating the board and the cable. Only hold the tip of the iron against the pad long enough to let the solder melt. Excess heat buildup has the potential to ruin the logic board or melt the ribbon cable.

    • Start working from the outside of the ribbon cable. Heat the outermost solder pad while gently prying up from under the ribbon cable to free it from the board. Repeat this process for each of the three remaining pads, working from right to left.

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    • At this point, the cable should be free from the logic board.

    • Lift the old cable out of the Touch and set it aside.

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    • Place the replacement cable in place and align the far right contact with the far right solder point. Use two small strips of electrical tape to hold the cable against the solder pads.

    • Place two strips of tape over the end of the ribbon cable to both cover the two left-most solder pads and hold the contacts down against the logic board.

    • Heat the right-most contact until the solder below melts, then apply a small amount of solder to the contact, allowing it to flow through the two holes in the cable and down to the logic board.

    • Do not apply too much solder. The amount required for a proper bond is miniscule.

    • As soon as the solder has flowed into the joint, remove both the solder and the iron.

    • Repeat this process with the second solder pad.

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    • Remove the old tape, and place a new piece of tape to hold the cable in place, but uncover the remaining two pads. If you are satisfied with the position of the cable relative to the pads on the board, proceed. If not, de-solder the first connection and try again.

    • Solder the two remaining pads to the logic board, being mindful of overheating the cable or board.

Abschluss

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

Tinte & Feder

Jake Devincenzi

Mitglied seit: 18/04/11

116297 Reputation

3 Kommentare

my question is for step 8. when removing the copper tape connecting the rear-facing camera i ripped mine. is it needed ? were can i get a new piece if it is needed ?

jimmy -

Thats really bad all you have to do is buy some and replase it

ben folks -

Search at ebay

Haris Kyritsis -