Magic Mouse 2 Teardown

Geschrieben von: Ron Davis
Veröffentlicht: 16/10/15
  • Kommentare: 60

Magic Mouse 2 Teardown

Veröffentlicht: 16/10/15

Teardown

Einleitung

Diese Woche hat Apple seine Reihe von Peripheriegeräten aufgefrischt und wir mussten deswegen alle unsere Teardownfähigkeiten aufbieten. Bisher haben wir das Magic Trackpad der 2. Generation aufgeknackt und das erste Magic Keyboard. Nun wenden wir uns der Magic Mouse 2 zu. Wird diese Neuentwickung auf der Höhe der Zeit sein? Begleite uns dabei, wenn wir das herausfinden!

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  1. xqtI4cbe1uhdmkpC
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    • Diese Maus wirbt mit dem zur Zeit größten Funktionsumfang. Schauen wir mal auf die technischen Daten:

    • Multi-touch Gestensteuerung

    • Bluetooth Drahtlosverbindungen

    • Lightning Port (zum Laden und zum Koppeln)

    • Interner Lithium-Ionen-Akku

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    • Bei den FCC Aufdrucken und beim Lightning Port ist eine neue Modellnummer eingraviert: A1657

    • Wir sind schon von Apples erster aufladbaren Maus begeistert - trotzdem: das ist schon ein komischer Platz für einen Lightning Port.

    • Wenn die Magic Mouse 2 am Draht hängt, ist sie zeitweise unbrauchbar - es sei denn, du möchstest deine Stirn als Mauspad nutzen.

    Apple’s opt-criticized decision to put the lightning port on the bottom makes a lot of sense to me— the clear message here is that when you see “mouse battery low” warnings, plug your mouse in to charge the next time you walk away from your computer— over lunch, or at the end of the day. Since it’s a 2-month-lasting battery and Apple’s low battery predictions are often accurate and give you plenty of time, you really have 2-3 days before it’s dead, so even the most forgetful of users will have multiple chances to plug the thing in overnight.

    But this really seems like an intentional design choice to prevent users from using the mouse with a cable plugged-in permanently. Corded mice almost always have the cable built-in rather than having a female plug for good reason— moving a mouse around can and will put a lot of strain on a plug. So Apple made the decision that rather than warning users not to use the mouse while plugged in for extended periods of time, to make it impossible to use while charging.

    Slipp D -

    A few (too many) have griped about the horrible seething pain of not having the freedom to ignore low battery warnings repeatedly and then once it’s dead, use it as a corded mouse for a while. Apple decided that if you choose to ignore all the warnings, you can later let your mouse charge for 2 1/2 hours without using it… but in reality, if you just need a charge to last until the end of the day, a 15-30 minute charge will do the job, and you can charge it the rest of the way over night.

    There have been so many gripes about this from the Apple community, it feels like the Apple-hating 1990s all over again. Here’s the deal— the product works well and gives plenty of leeway. It doesn’t work like your favorite rock-bottom-priced PC accessory, but it also doesn’t instant-die without warning, nor does the internal connector break after a year like that PC accessory. Both build quality and design (in terms of user experience) are responsible for a mouse that’ll last a decade or more.

    Slipp D -

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    • Auf den ersten Blick sieht die neue Magic Mouse (links) gebauso wie der ältere Bruder aus. Mäusezwillinge!

    • Wenn sie aber auf dem Rücken liegen, sind die Unterschiede schon auffallender.

    • Klar, die wiederaufladbare Magic Mouse 2 hat keine Akkuklappe mehr und anstelle des Akkuverschlusses gibt es jetzt den neue Lightning Port.

    • Apple hat auch die Farbe des Aufdrucks geändert und die Status LED entfernt, vielleicht, damit die restlichen Bauteile passen.

  4. Das ist ja nicht unsere erste Tour <em>um</em> eine <a href="../../home/not_yet_available?url=/Teardown/Magic%252BMouse%252BTeardown/1240%2523s6670">Magic Mouse</a>, es ist klar, dass wir dafür einen iOpener herausholen müssen.

    • Das ist ja nicht unsere erste Tour um eine Magic Mouse, es ist klar, dass wir dafür einen iOpener herausholen müssen.

    • Im vorigen Modell war der Aluminiumbauch fest mit der Maus verklebt. In dieser Beziehung erwarten wir beim neuen Modell keine Veränderungen.

    • Von den anderen "Magic" Peripheriegeräten haben wir eines gelernt, nämlich dass Apple in seinen Kleber schwer verliebt ist.

    Hello!

    What sort of heating manner would you suggest?

    Emile -

    esos adhesivos donde los venderan???

    danny garrido -

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    • Apple hat erwähnt, dass ihre Maus ein "optimimiertes Gleiterdesign" hat. Wir dachten, dass wir erst Mal diese Gleiter abziehen mit der unwahrscheinlichen Hoffnung auf darunter verborgene Schrauben.

    • Man kann doch auch mal träumen, oder?

    • Nach Unmengen von Wärmeanwendungen und einem halben Dutzend Hebelwerkzeugen, die unter dem Gehäuse eingeklemmt sind, ist die Maus von der klebrigen Masse darunter erlöst.

    • Ewigkeiten später gelingt es uns endlich, das untere Gehäuseteil von der Maus abzulösen und einen ersten Blick auf den (immer noch klebrigen) Mittelrahmen zu erhaschen.

    is the lower casing material now real aluminium or just aluminium looking plastic as it was before?

    mw -

    It was NEVER silver painted plastic. Maybe you should have a closer look - VERY thin, hardened aluminium can appear _like_ plastic, but be assured - it's REAL aluminium. This isn't HP here.

    Matt Foot -

    well, having a closer look at my magic mouse 1, all i see is where the shinier silver-colored outer metallic coating has worn away in a splotchy and spotty manner from where my fingers gripped it on both sides; gross. what's underneath looks and feels very much like gray plastic.

    so, is the new 2 a single piece of solid aluminum? really want to know, especially for that price. $80 for a mouse that will need a new battery in 2-3 years AND has it's outer coating disintegrate to human touch is not a good deal.

    PS -

    tuck it guy if u dnt

    do it why, heavens open all day. not headed there why ask

    Mizzie Salazar -

    pull your finger out of your whatever - it's aluminium and always been aluminium. Repaired a dozen of these, so yeah - aluminium.

    Unless you have a cheap chinese knockoff not genuine magic mouse :D

    DigiHead -

    I’m a little perplexed by this as I have both iterations in front of me. While I only needed my thumbnails to separate the case on both, my Magic Mouse 1 is, without doubt, Aluminum. The Magic Mouse 2 base is just regular silver coloured plastic.

    Stephen Treloar -

    Mit dem Wissen, wie und wo die vier Haken sitzen, ist das Öffnen der Maus auch ohne das mühsame Entfernen des Klebers ganz einfach: In den Ecken nacheinander mit einem Spatel unter die Kante des Oberteils fassen, mit dem Spatel das Oberteil seitlich verschieben, so dass der Haken herausspringt. Damit ist das Öffnen eine Sekundensache.

    Matt Schulz -

    There is an easier way to taking this apart, if you didnt already know and you are looking to repair one of these this will help. All that needs to be done is to pry the top half along the sides with a flat head screw driver, you should hear a click. Repeat this u till all is off. https://youtu.be/thNxWVfLrr4 here is the video i found for reference, this way is a lot better as you can repair it in a shorter amount of time and it is less damaging

    Lucian -

    it takes like 7.4 minutes to take it apart - not getting where are these aeons coming from ;)

    DigiHead -

  6. Hb4GVaSaBY2Hkbpw
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    • Wir lassen vier Kunstoffrasten aufspringen und gelangen in das Akkufach hinein.

    • Diese Rasten erweisen sich tatsächlich als Teil des Klickmechanismus der einzigen oberen Abdeckung/Taste.

    • Beachte auch das durchsichtige Acryl. Es ist nur an der Unterseite beschichtet und die Oberseite und die Seiten sind durchsichtig.

    • Wir heben den Gehäusedeckel hoch, und sehen, was diese Maus so sensoritiv macht - die kapazitive Baugruppe.

    • Diese kapazitive Baugruppe macht aus der Maus so eine Art Hybridtrackpad. Sie registriert Berührungen an der Oberfläche und Gesten, auch wenn die Maus selbst nicht bewegt wird.

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    • Endlich etwas, das wir verstehen! Schrauben! Leider drücken sie eine Halterung über einem Flachbandkabel fest, welches uns davon abhält die Bauteile der Maus abzulösen - aber Hallo, dieser Sicherheitsgurt sorgt dafür, dass die Maus Stürze besser überstehen kann.

    • Endlich ist das Gehäusedeckel vom Basisgerät abgelöst und wir können freier auf die berührungsempfindliche kapazitive Baugruppe schauen.

    • Eine kleine Feder sorgt für Spannung, wenn die Maus geklickt wird und man hat den Eindruck, als ob die kleine Taste an der rechten Seite die ganze Breite der Maus einehmen würde. Cooool!

  8. uaBIaSxnHFHPNgYZ
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    • Dieses winzige Logic Board ist reif zum Pflücken!

    • Broadcom BCM20733 Bluetooth 3.0 SCS mit verbesserter Datenrate

    • Ein unbekannter 303S0499 — wahrscheinlich ein Apple eigenerTouch Kontroller

    • NXP 1608A1 Lade IC

    • Texas Instruments 56AYZ21

    • ST Microelectronics STM32F103VB 72 MHz 32-bit RISC ARM Cortex-M3

    hi

    i want to buy magic mouse 2 movment sensore

    Fady Fadl -

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    • Versteckt unter dem Logic Board finden wir einen winzigen Schalter, der der Maus ihren Klick gibt (bis jetzt noch keine Taptic Engine).

    • Zum Glück wird er nur von der Platine darüber festgehalten. Das ist eine willkommene Abwechslung nach dem Durchwaten der restlichen Schlammgrube.

    • Das ist ja eine häufige Fehlerquelle und es ist nett, dass Apple einen recht standardmäßigen und leicht erhältlichen Schalter verwendet — auch wenn sein Austausch den Kampf mit all diesem Kleber erfordert (sowie das Verlöten des Ersatzschalters).

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    • Jetzt richten wir unsere Aufmerksamkeit auf den Akku, der haargenau in sein kleines Kunstofffach passt, so dass das Herauslösen ziemlich nervig wird.

    • Es stellt sich heraus, dass das nicht das einzige ist, was ihn befestigt — er wird auch noch von einem Klebstoffgeschmiere festgehalten. Das Entfernen des Akkus macht noch weniger Spaß, als wir befürchtet haben.

    • Der Akku der Magic Mouse 2 teilt eine übliche Eigenschaft mit der Apple TV Fernbedienung — der Lightning Connector ist mit dem Akkukabel verlötet. Pfui.

    • Dieses kleine Bauteil hat's nicht leicht — die 3,67 V, 7,28 Wh, 1986 mAh Lithium-Ionen Zelle hat 9% mehr Saft als die im iPhone 6s!

  11. ovXNR4Y3aAUYXGNj
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    • Die Reparaturbewertung der Magic Mouse 2: 2 von 10 (10 ist am leichtesten zu reparieren)

    • Der Lightning Port und der Akku können, unabhängig vom Logic Board, ersetzt werden (als einzelne Komponente) — wenn du es schaffst das Gerät zu öffnen.

    • Der Austausch eines defekten Schalters erfordert es, mit großen Mengen an Klebstoff fertig zu werden und zu löten.

    • Sehr viel starker Kleber erschwert das Entfernen des Rückpanels und behindert den Zugang zu inneren Bauteilen.

    • Ohne Servicehandbuch ist es sehr schwer, die Maus zu öffnen und keine der inneren Bauteile zu beschädigen, z.B. den optischen Sensor und den An/Ausschalter.

Tinte & Feder

Ron Davis

Mitglied seit: 17/02/15

30005 Reputation

46 Kommentare

Disposable mouse once the battery goes.

rgarjr -

hmmm... what was wrong with just replacing batteries?

Now we have a device that has a limited life span of about 2-5 years due to the battery (which can develop faults)....

I dont like Apple purposely creating limit life span products, and using tones of glue to make them difficult to repair - this is not good and quite distrusting of Apple... Steve Jobs would hate all this glue -- what ever happened to good well-built great designed products???

pauldixon1986 -

On keyboards, little. On mice, I get through a lot of batteries.

alex -

And there was plenty of glue around in Apple products where SJ was running the show.

98% of these mice will never need repairing outside warranty. That glue makes for a product that is less likely to go wrong.

Of course iFixit doesn't care [in a positive sense] about reliability. They want products that they can sell you a fix for.

alex -

On the contrary, it was after Steve Jobs return to Apple that they moved away from maintanable hardware to gluey messes. And honestly, there's nothing wrong with that. Apple banks on the fact that the vast majority of its customers will accept nigh non-existent repairability in exchange for sleek form factors, and they're absolutely right. That means that the few percent of computer users who value repairability and upgradeability can take their business elsewhere, and honestly, that sort of person wasn't in the market for an overpriced product that's more fashion accessory than it is a tool in the first place.

dbgrogg -

There was a flaw with their battery holder, I always had issues where the batteries wouldn’t make proper contact with the positive end of the AA cell, and disconnect, I fixed the problem with a blob of solder on the contact, but this was a temporary solution to a problem with the design.

Legend Cox -

Guys i have recently purchased this mouse and when i flip it to turn it on i can hear a rattling noise from inside, on further shaking the mouse it feels as if something is loose inside the mouse near the lens hole.

Is that normal ?

mrigankh -

seems some guy is also selling a charging dock for these now to combat the terrible charging deisgn http://www.ebay.com/itm/252379999994

alexjankuv -

In step 8, photo 2 of the board top there's an unpopulated usb port footprint on the right edge of the board. Looks like they ran a revision with the usb port coming out the front.

Max McLaughlin -

You know what? As a repair and service engineer of 25 years, I wouldn't let iFixit ANYWHERE NEAR my Magic Mouse if they think that spinning it around on its back is a good idea - that'll scratch the plastic top shell - WHY WOULD YOU DO THAT, YOU CRAZY PEOPLE? Talk about stupid - that video is just a staff member showing off, trying to make the video "interesting" - well don't - we are not fools.

Matt Foot -

Matt you're impractically critical and it sounds like you're insecurely threatened by a company that teaches people how to fix their own stuff versus spending money on you, the bitchy "repair tradesman".

Mike Kormendy -

Your trumped up title does a good job at introducing the rest of you.

scottjoewilliams -

So disappointed that Apple has used Transistor radio technology from 50 years ago. One drop (on carpet) rendered mine useless. I think I'll get the battery cover style mouse to replace. Stupid.

rjgajsek -

спасибо большое!!! ваш разбор очень помог мне! вернул к жизни это чудо техники)))

andrey -

Guess I'll hold on to my first gen Magic keyboard and mouse rather than the inconvenience of recharging, waiting, and throwing out a less-than-friendly keyboard/mouse set. But i guess if it lasts 3-5 years that's all we can expect. I still prefer consumer-friendly devices though so I'll hold onto my first gen devices as long as I can.

Bob Foss -

where can i find those spare black feet

Roshan Sahoo -

The battery stopped holding a charge 13 1/2 months after we bought it…out of warranty for 1 1/2 months. Apple initially said tough luck! Took some more complaining to get it a replacement. How can Apple claim to be green when you can’t replace the battery?

carlchizewski -

It’s really not the bad to get the battery out, but try to find a replacement not going to happen, So why even do it…

Work -

Thank you for your information;

typically I thought that I could open the Magic Mouse without reading any instructions…boy was I wrong! Oh well, I actually prefer Logitech or other cheaper mouses than Apple’s offering anyhow. I’ve been a loyal Apple fan since Apple began. They may be the biggest brand but they got there by royally screwing those who got them there

Bob W.

rkirkwalker88 -

Use first version of magic mouse. Use rechargeable batteries. Saves a lot of time. No gimmicks.

Ben Tupper -

My father let it sit in a drawer for a year and I fear the Li battery has lost it’s ability to charge. Seems to be a common issue with electronics today. If you leave them discharged for long enough, they won’t charge again. And with these tightly integrated batteries, fixing it becomes a hard sell.

scottjoewilliams -

Thanks for your great JOB, i’ve repaired my Magic Mouse 2

luismiquelcompany -

You have got to be kidding me with a battery that lasted (3) months.

GUY INFIELD -

The proprietary flat cable is soldered to the battery in a manner that no one should try to un-solder it. It’s fun to take apart, but unlikely that mortals could safely un-solder the cable from the battery. A wonderful example of an “unrepairable-by-design” item.

Chris Kimball -

I was able to open the MM2 with a spudger - the plastic clips pictured in step 6 were the only thing holding the top on mine. From there I had access to the rest of the internal parts, making it easy to swap the clicker with a silent one. Worked well and was way easier than I thought… No mess with adhesive, not too much fuss with reseating the ribbon. Maybe I just got lucky?

Anthony Lopez -

This. Actually the whole process of tearing apart the metal cover with heat is totally not needed. Both halves are kept together with just 4 clips.

karmansan -

Do you have any photos/videos showing how this can be done?

Chris -

no need to remove wear strips on bottom, just twist the top shell off with plastic spudger tool - you can use screw driver but take care not to damage the plastic edges and aluminium bottom half

owen1234321 -

I have a Magic Mouse 2 and the onscreen pointer jumps all around the place.

I have looked and got all the cat hair and dust i could - yet it still jumps around.

Please advise:

Patrick DonEgan -

There is no need to remove the glued bottom, the mouse pops open relatively easily…..four spots 1.5 inches from the front and back on both sides

petermandt6 -

Hello! I have this problem. I click on magic mouse but the key don’t come back and so I can’t click again. Can I or someone repair it? Or do I have to buy another?

Paolo -

Hey Paolo, if you pry off the white top using a thick guitar pick or spudger (just use force about 3 cm from the top and end of the device, inside the seams) you can bend up the spring a little bit. This may help. Alternatively, shake and tap the ouse on a table to see if anything falls out.

Laurens -

103/5000

Hi. Magic Mouse 2 fell to the ground, now it does not work. I need help, how can I repair it?

ondina -

overpriced but SPLENDID!!! I LOVE APPLE!!!

Yannis -

You don’t actually have to contend with any glue when disassembling this mouse. Nor do you need to solder anything. Replacing the battery/port combo could realistically take around 10 minutes for a semi skilled tech.

timfearsatan -

Hi iFixit,

Thanks for all your hard work! I have used this to tackle replacing a battery. As you say, it’s NOT easy! I thought I’d let you know I have managed to do it. I found a battery for £21.50. I didn’t bother taking the feet off, I did heat the case with a hair dryer and was attempting to remove the base from the the internal structure, using a few ‘plectrum’ prying leavers … !! but somehow I managed to release a couple of the four clips, I went on to undo the others and it opened! The motherboard does need to come off to get the battery ribbon under it. Out of curiosity I wondered if I could do it again, and I did! There is a knack to it, but it does save the un-gluing! Why so much glue under the battery! it ain’t going anywhere with the tight fitting enclosure around it. I removed all the double sided tape off the new battery before installing it, in case I replace it again in the future. Thanks!! For the cost of the battery I now have a piece of Apple E waste that’s now worth £40-£50!

Best, Gavin

Gavin -

mine went TU today, ordered a cheap replacement. we shall see who wins

richard -

ain’t this a kick in the cargo pants. my (purchased in 2017) MM2 has sprung to life…dunno what was going on. i pried off the skids and tried lifting the bottom shell with my spongers…but set it side…put the skids back on and pushed it to the side. i had left the bluetooth system pane open, and i saw it listed, it was turned off, so i pushed the switch to on and it now recognised….huzzah for monkey prying!

richard -

where can i buy parts?

Rain wav -

Apple updated the Magic Mouse 2 in August 2021 and dropped the “2” from the name. I’m not sure what has changed internally, but Apple said it has a longer battery life, so possibly other things have changed internally as well. That could justify a new teardown! (hint: please do)

Joseph Costello -

5 Years battery's died. 2/10 to replace. Reverted to ordinary USB mouse which was actually older than the MM2. Apple should be landfill/climate change taxed to death for this kind of product.

Roger -

Lucky for you to get 5 years out of it. Mine died after only 3 years with very light usage. Now it's a fancy 80 USD paperweight. Anything Apple says about the environment is pure marketing BS when they're still selling this piece of e-waste garbage to this very day.

Hiếu Nguyễn Quang -

Oh my gosh I hate ADHESIVE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! my dad's mouse stoped holding a charge (not like it was easy to tell because there's not even an indication that the thing is charged without connecting it to a Mac) had to replace the battery. It worked but I wanted to just throw the thing out and buy a new one for him( which is what apple wants)

Mad Zane -

There is a much simpler way to get into the mouse by just unclipping four clips. Check out this video: https://youtu.be/MeEmI8B5YkU

maiksicks -