Oculus Rift CV1 Teardown

Geschrieben von: Evan Noronha

Veröffentlicht: 30/03/16

Kommentare: 133

Oculus Rift CV1 Teardown

Veröffentlicht: 30/03/16

Teardown

Einleitung

Seit vor vier Jahren Oculus ein VR-Headset ankündigte, hat iFixit die beiden Entwicklerversionen erfolgreich auseinander und wieder zusammen gebaut.

Nun haben wir endlich die Consumerversion zum Teardown bekommen und können euch verraten was gleich blieb und was sich geändert hat.

Schnappt euch euer Werkzeug und kommt mit uns an die Werkbank: Wir bauen das Oculus Rift auseinander

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Werkzeuge

Schritt 1

Wir haben bereits das DK1 und das DK2 auseinandergebaut und sind nun gespannt was das CV1 kann. Die Spezifikationen soweit:
Zwei OLED Displays mit einer Auflösung von ingesamt 2160 x 1200
Bildwiederholrate von 90 Hz
Beschleunigungssensor, Gyroscope und Magnetometer
360° Headset-Tracking mit der Constellation Infrarot Kamera
Horizontales Blickfeld von mehr als 100º
Die Motion Controller, genannt Oculus Touch, werden später im Jahr 2016 veröffentlicht. Möglicherweise werden wir auch diese zerlegen.

Schritt 2

Um die VR-Erfahrung zu verbessern, wurde das Tracking der Kopfbewegung verbessert.
Dies geschieht anhand von Infrarot(IR) LEDs die am Headset angebracht sind. Mit bloßem Auge nicht zu sehen, fängt die Infrarotkamera "Constellation" die Bewegungen des Nutzers ein.
Die Kamera nennt sich "Constellation", da sie einem Sternbild ähnelt - das du direkt im Gesicht trägst.
Selbst wenn du den Kopf drehst, können die Bewegungen verfolgt werden, denn auch auf der Rückseite befinden sich IR LEDs. Theoretisch kann man sich also beliebig oft drehen, ohne dass es Probleme gibt - sofern man nicht über das Kabel stolpert.

Schritt 3

Das CV1 ist definitiv die bisher schickste Ausführung. Sie ist leicht, beeindruckend komfortabel und hat die Kopfhörer direkt eingebaut.
Ein dicker Rahmen aus Schaumstoff soll den Effekt des Oculus Face minimieren. Praktischerweise wird der Rahmen einfach angesteckt.
Dank weniger Schrauben ist das Headset leichter!
Wenn der Schaumstoffrahmen abgebaut ist, kann das einzelne Kabel vom Display ausgesteckt werden.
Die Kabelführung hat sich mit jeder Generation der Rift (DK1 und DK2) deutlich verbessert.

Schritt 4

Die verstellbaren Kopfhörer sind einfach abzubauen.
Der Kopfhörerbügel ist mit einer eingefassten Flachkopfmutter befestigt und Federkontakte stellen die Verbindung zum Stirnband her.
Wir haben schon eine Menge unreparierbare und nahezu nicht auseinandernehmbare Kopfhörer gesehen, sodass uns diese hier positiv überrascht haben.
Insbesondere vor dem Hintergrund, dass diese kleinen Jungs beliebte Zielscheiben für Schäden sind. Können sie bei heftigen PvP Kämpfen doch allzu leicht zu Boden "fallen".

I agree that more detailed teardown of the headphones themselves would be nice. I still wonder if they are made by KOSS or someone else.

Nick Kisselkov - 03/04/16

Hey, thanks! Totally missed that screw in the inside of the headphone connection

Mark Carolan - 22/07/18

This one picture just saved me from replacing my headset due to a failed earpiece. Turns out, after a year of passing the headset around for Beat Saber, we managed to unscrew one. That side felt a smidge loose, and then the sound went out. We assumed a bad wire, but we just needed to line the pegs up and tighten the flathead cover on the inside of the band. Thanks guys!

Mara Methvin - 02/12/20

Schritt 5

Der innere Plastikrahmen ist mit Stretchmaterial bezogen, um das Innenleben vor Staub zu bewahren. Gleichzeitig bietet er den verstellbaren Linsen aber genügend Raum.
Außerdem hat der Rahmen einen Befestigungspunkt für das Kopfband.
Und wie bekommt man das jetzt auf? Wir stutzen einen Moment bis unser Teardown Profi die versteckten Clips auf der Innenseite entdeckt und sie mit ein paar wenigen Klicks löst.
Damit können wir die Maske abnehmen und den ersten Blick ins Innenleben werfen.

Could you please be more specific in how to remove the cover. I cannot see how to remove it with just the one picture of the spudger shoved in the gap. Thanks.

Chris B - 30/09/16

Guys this is the hardest part and you just forgot to explain it. Here is a link to the mask: http://imgur.com/lDhwvfV Note the 3 interior clips. Here is another image where it clips in: http://imgur.com/VJaI52O I recommend starting with the ones on the bottom.

Zsolt Mihalyfi - 24/10/16

Zsolt - how did you get the clips off from around the lenses? Did you have to do it from over the cloth?

Andrew White - 27/05/17

Please be specific how you removed the bottom 4 screws. The T3 bit and driver are not enough. It keeps occurring like the heads will strip. Hope you can take time to provide support for this!

GInger Jones - 19/07/17

For anyone that gets stuck here, there are six T3 Torx screws (4 bottom, 2 top), clips around the outside of the mask that are pretty easy with a spudger, and then three clips per eyepiece/lens as pictured in Zsolts’s post above. I couldn’t get the eyepiece clips started by prying around the lenses so I ended up prying the mask open as much as possible at the top and getting the top ones nearest to the nose open with the small pointy end of the spudger. After that I was able to get the rest from the gap made around the lenses from releasing that first clip for each.

terrance - 20/04/18

If this true, it’s Unbeliveable you guys don’t talk about the 6 screws removal in your page script. This is CAPITAL! I’m trying to remove only be declipping and I’m sure I’m breaking everything.

David S - 21/09/18

I wish you all the best of luck with your projects, but as stated in the banner at the top of this page: this is not a guide. iFixit teardowns are meant to be a first look at the hardware and overall repairability, and should not be used as instructions.

Jeff Suovanen - 27/09/18

I spent over an hour trying to remove the %#*@ cowl. Turns out, I had to apply a LOT more pressure than I thought would be necessary. No, I have not broken anything but make sure to use plastic tools (spudgers) I had to pry my thumb between the cowl and the main housing in the lower right hand side up first as it turned out to be the easier side, to reveal the cowl’s clip that’s over and around the lens. After popping that one off, I did the same to the left. Now, at that point, run your thumb/finger over the cloth and along the ring where the other two clips are latches around the lens. Now, after running your finger across it, part of the ring should separate thus allowing you to use that as leverage to wiggle the other two clips free.

DJHeroMasta - 16/01/19

Couple comments based on previous posts: 1) “The T3 bit and driver are not enough. It keeps occurring like the heads will strip” - I ran into the same things where it felt like I was stripping the screw, ended up using a T4 bit instead and it fit perfectly, 2) The clips around the lens as pictured in the 2nd post from Zsolt were super helpful, once I knew where the clips were used a 0.46mm guitar pick to wedge in-between the lens and cover to unfasten and the cover came of easily.

Paul Not Bunyan -

Comments on Paul Not Bunyan's post. Confirmed T4 bit. I originally thought I needed a longer T4 bit, but the iFixit bit worked fine. The T4 screws near the nose were difficult, but let the plastic housing of the kato mask guide your bit to the head of the T4. On the subject of the kato mask clips: start on the left lens without the IPD slider. Once you have bottom lens clip unfastened, run your plastic spudger on the inside of the clip on either side of the lens to free the other two clips. Indeed, the cover came off easily once you figure out the puzzle. Thanks Paul Not Bunyan!

Renjamin - 11/05/22

I had an easier time with the clips by adjusting the IPD to the maximum and then going in for the center nose bridge clips because of the extra room, as then I could simply wiggle the other two clips off each lens with the extra slack. This might be harder if your tool is rounder or larger. Definitely not much force needed.

Sae Yun -

Schritt 6

Der DK2 Prototyp nutzte ein einzelnes 1080p Display des Samsung Galaxy Note 3. Dieses mal jedoch gibt es was anderes...
Anstatt eines Smartphone Displays, hat Oculus gleich zwei eingebaut, die direkt auf die Linse montiert wurden. Scharfgestellt werden diese über den Schieberegler unten rechts am Gerät.
Bis zur Veröffentlichung des eyePhone werden wir uns damit begnügen müssen.
Was ist das? Es scheint ein Sensor für Umgebungshelligkeit zu sein. Vermutlich um zu prüfen ob das Rift getragen wird oder um die Display Helligkeit anzupassen.

This little Sensor is a proximity Sensor. It is used to detect if the User wears the Glasses. If the Oculus Software isn't opened yet, it will open automatically after some seconds. Its like the Sensor on your Smartphone which turns of the Display while calling sombody.

Timo Meyer - 12/01/17

Schritt 7

Nach dem Entfernen des Gehäuses findet man noch einige Flachbandkabel. Der Durchhang der Kabel ermöglicht es, dass die Linsen genug Spiel haben, um eingestellt zu werden.
Drei weitere Flachbandkabel sind auf der Innenseite des Gehäuses und verbinden die Steuereinheit mit den IR LEDs
Fummelige Kabel die zwei Hälften unseres Geräts verbinden sind bei uns eher unbeliebt. Diese sind jedoch wenigstens beschriftet - was das Zusammenbauen erleichtert. Später mehr dazu.
Hier sehen wir nun die Innereien des Rift
An die Vegetarier: wir fanden keine tatsächlichen Innereien im Rift.

Is there a gap between the top housing and the ribbon cable? (i.e. would you be able to accidentally press down on the ribbon cable if you squeezed the housing? )

Albert Kart - 11/08/16

How did the lid break down? How can I not get it down?

chenchen - 21/06/18

not to sound like a jerk but this is the least descriptive teardown of anything ever……..

Joshua Gayman - 14/09/18

The cowl took me over an hour to remove cause I was being very careful trying not to break any clips but a lot of force was required to get that SOB off. Now, I’m stuck trying to figure out how to remove this part! I wish someone would update this with a lot more pictures and a step by step video.

DJHeroMasta - 16/01/19

I’ve disassembled mine today, so I’ll add a few words to ease this step :)

NOTE: this can be done without force, there are no clips once you undo all screws.

Photos + instructions: https://imgur.com/a/9UAM737

1. 3 more torx T3/T4 screws marked in red (two holding front plate to the bottom wall, plus one holding the lens slider assembly)

2. 4 big X-screws holding the front plate in the corners, marked in green (only the biggest ones need to be unscrewed)

3. Tricky hidden top-center screw: DEEP directly on the front plate. Push the lenses to the sides first, or it won’t be accessible from the inside! Use a thin, long and well magnetized small cross screwdriver. The 2nd photo shows exactly where the screw was. With good lighting it should be visible from the inside with the lenses moved away.

4. Unclip the lens slider slider (3rd photo): insert a prying tool from the inside and it will pop out — do not lose the tiny springs!

5. Now the front plate should come off easily with some wiggling.

Artur Kozak - 12/04/20

Thank you so much for this update! That made my life 1000x easier. I never would’ve found that hidden phillips deep between the lenses!

Squeeter McGeeter - 26/10/20

Schritt 8

Schauen wir uns zuerst die Verteilung der LEDs an.
Diese fummeligen Kabel verbinden drei LED arrays: Oben, unten und hinten.
Jede LED ist nummeriert und bei D8 bis D10 gibt es noch ein verstecktes Mikrofon.
Wir gehen davon aus, dass dieses für In-game Chat, Sprachcommands oder zur Regulierung von Lautstärke bei Umgebungsgeräuschen dient.

Where is the "hidden" microphone?

Shane Shuttleworth - 21/09/16

it's the little yellowish bit at the bottom-left in the first image, and covered by kapton tape in the second image. relative to your face while wearing the device, it would be under your left eye.

piro - 08/11/16

Schritt 9

Oberhalb der Linsen befindet sich Motherboard mit den Chips.
Toshiba TC358870XBG 4K HDMI to MIPI Dual-DSI Converter
CypressCYUSB3304 USB 3.0 Hub Controller
Winbond W25Q64FVIG 64 Mb Serial Flash Memory
Nordic Semiconductor nRF51822 Bluetooth Smart and 2.4GHz proprietary SoC
CMedia CM119BN USB Audio Controller
Bosch Sensortec BMI055 6-axis Inertial Sensor

Hi, it's actually "MIPI", as in http://mipi.org/ , not "MIP". There's a typo in the headline of the linked press-release.

Evan Cox - 01/04/16

Yes it is a typo, MIPI instead of MIP. And here is the link to the Toshiba device:

http://toshiba.semicon-storage.com/info/...

Darius - 01/04/16

"Nordic Semiconductor nRF51822", interesting... I assume that is a the RF link to the Clicker and (probably) Touch. If so, this is somewhat disappointing as it will mean that the touch controllers are only compatible with Oculus headset and can not be used separately or with another headset configuration.

Simon Wood - 06/04/16

True - it seems like a proprietary 2.4GHz ref. FCC filing.

Body Double - 11/04/16

The left display on my headset stopped working and went completely dark. I am normally brave enough to open devices and fix them myself, but the hidden clips and fragile housing makes me worried I might make things worse. I'm not even sure if I can even fix the issue or if the display itself went bad.

hymanator - 14/08/16

Parts are not available for the Rift main assembly at all after the warranty period. Oculus does not offer a repair service or a replacement program. You will have to rely on someone selling a broken unit that has a working component you need, or buy an entire new kit. Post warranty support for the main unit is non-existent.

Charles Miotla - 24/08/17

Great teardown, thx! Were you able to find what chipset is doing the power supply? Is it a PMIC? Multiple DC/DC converters?

calvin - 11/01/17

do you know what TE connector is used on this board?

Graham edwards - 17/05/18

I did 2 tear down on 2 different units bought a year apart.

The newer board does not have Winbond W25Q64FVIG 64 Mb Serial Flash Memory on it.

Newer board is 330-00030-03 REV A 2016. Where the chip was in now 4 square flat shapes of solder.

They remove it? Why?

Ardy Blakley - 05/07/19

Great info thx for the knowledge. I had an interesting discovery on one of my head sets.

I have 2 different headsets I bought a year apart. I tore both apart and discovered something missing on newer board.

The newer board does not have Winbond 64 Mb Serial Flash Memory on it. Newer board is marked with 330-00030-03 REV A 2016. Where the chip was is now in its place 4 square flat shapes of solder.

I am curious to why they removed the Flash Memory.

Ardy Blakley - 05/07/19

I did 2 tear down on 2 different units bought a year apart. The newer board does not have Winbond W25Q64FVIG 64 Mb Serial Flash Memory on it. Newer board is 330-00030-03 REV A 2016. Where the chip was in now 4 square flat shapes of solder.

Ardy Blakley - 05/07/19

Schritt 10

Beim Auseinanderbauen kommen die Displays zum Vorschein!
Die OLED Displays sind pro Stück 90 mm breit mit einer Dichte von ~456 ppi. Zum Vergleich haben die Displays des iPhone 6s Plus hat 401 ppi und das Galaxy S7 hatt knapp über 576 ppi.
Eigentlich müsste der Nutzer ca. 20 cm vom Display entfernt sein, um die einzelnen Pixel nicht mehr erkennen zu können. Die Linsen des Rift führen dazu, dass das Display viel weiter entfernt und viel größer scheint.
Bisher erkennt man die einzelnen Pixel also noch.

What is the sub-pixel structure of the display? Is it pentile as everyone expected, or is it RGB? And who's the manufacturer? Microscope shots of the display in action would have been great too.

Nick Kisselkov - 03/04/16

Schritt 11

Während frühere Rift Kits noch mit austauschbaren runden Linsen kamen, nutzt das Rift CV1 eine einzelne asymmetrische Linse (rechts).
Bei näherer Betrachtung der Linse des CV1 zeigen sich die konzentrischen Ringe, es handelt sich also um Fresnel Linse. Diese Linsen haben den selben Effekt wie die dickeren, gebogenen Linsen der früheren Rift Generationen, wiegen jedoch weit weniger.
Die Fresnel Linsen bieten den selben Blickwinkel und die kleine Brennweite mit wesentlich weniger Material.
Mit den variierenden Größen und Formen hat es Oculus geschafft, die Linsen für diesen Anwendungsfall zu perfektionieren. Das Ergebnis der asymmetrischen Formen sollten also weniger Bildfehler sein.

What is the diameter of the lens? (I know its not round but in the widest part)

Diego Chavez - 03/04/16

It's approximately 49.82mm. I had to measure a rubbing of the lens (pencil over paper) in order to cut lens protectors for them. I measured with a cheap digital caliper.

Nate - 27/04/16

How sensitive are the lenses to pressure? I was wiping the lenses softly and it creaked a little bit, just once though. Is this normal?

Nelson - 16/03/17

Schritt 12

Warum sind die Linsen gebogen wenn Fresnel Linsen gegenüber gewöhnlichen Linsen das nicht sein müssen?
Wie sich rausstellt, hat Oculus Hybrid Fresnel Linsen entwickelt.
Diese Linsen bestehen aus konzentrischen Prismen mit gleicher Stärke. Jedoch sind diese Linsen mit einer leichten Krümmung geschliffen, was den optischen Fokus entlang der gesamten vertikalen Achse ermöglicht.
Aus diesem Grund weist einen die Bedienungsanleitung dazu an, das Headset auf dem Gesicht auf und ab zu bewegen bis das Bild scharf ist.

Schritt 13

Wir unterbrechen an dieser Stelle für eine kurze wissenschaftlich Erklärung.

Wir unterbrechen an dieser Stelle für eine kurze wissenschaftlich Erklärung.
Es stellt sich die Frage wie die Linsen in einem VR-Headset tatsächlich funktionieren.
Damit der Eindruck der virtuellen Realität nicht zu sehr anstrengt, müssen die Linsen zwei Aufgaben erfüllen: das Display so vergrößern, dass man die Ränder nicht mehr sehen kann und das Display am Punkt der optischen Unendlichkeit scharf stellen.
Optische Unendlichkeit beschreibt den Effekt das Objekte auf dem Display weit entfernt scheinen. Die Linsen bündeln das einfallende Licht in parallele Stränge, um die Augen nicht zu überanstrengen.
Die Linsen des Rift führen also dazu, dass man den Einruck hat, auf ein unendlich weit entferntes Display zu schauen.

Schritt 14

Was steckt hinter den Linsen mit den beiden Displays? Ein super schicker, gefederter Zahnstangen-Mechanismus, um den Abstand zwischen den beiden Einheiten (Display + Linse) einzustellen.
Die Verwendung von zwei Displays war ein erheblicher Fortschritt zwischen der Rift DK2 und dem Crescent Bay-Prototypen. Da sich dadurch jeweils eine Linse samt Display als ganzes bewegen kann, schafft die Rift eine 5-95%ige Abdeckung der Pupillendistanz.
TL;DR: Jeder der Augen hat, kann die Rift vermutlich nutzen. Schön!
Als nächstes kommt das LED Driverboard mit allen Beschriftungen, die man sich beim Auseinander- und wieder Zusammenbauen wünscht.

Schritt 15

Hier sehen wir die eben genannte, gut beschriftete Treiberplatine mit über einem Duzend Messstellen und der nötigen Steuerelektronik.
Anstatt wie bisher im DK2, stammen die LED Treiber nicht mehr von STMicroelectronics, sondern von Texas Instruments:
3x TLC59401 16-Channel LED Treiber mit "Dot Correction" und Graustufen PWM-Steuerung
Auf der Rückseite sehen wir zwei recht große Kondensatoren, die benötigt werden, um die Lastspitzen auszugleichen, die durch das Pulsieren der vielen IR LEDs entstehen.

Schritt 16

Nachdem wir uns die Linsen und die Elektronik angeschaut haben, ist es nun an der Zeit das Stirnband auseinanderzubauen.
Auf der Suche nach LEDs und der Verkabelung der Kopfhörer ziehen wir die FCC Sticker ab.
Nachdem wir auch noch eine Lage aus Stoff abgezogen haben, finden wir ein schwarzes Flachbandkabel, das entlang der Innenseite zu den LEDs im hinteren Teil verläuft.
Außerdem finden wir noch etwas Mechanik!

My right strap snapped off the Rift and broke the ribbon cable inside. So no speakers or back tracking LEDs. Any way to replace or solder it back together?

Rafael Fideles - 09/09/16

Same Problem , I am trying to repair the ribbon cable : fix both sides with glue on a thin sheet (piece of other ribbon cable) , scratch with a scalpell the black lack to expose the copper layer , and restore the connections soldering thin wires . After , seal evething with got glue .

I hope my skills are good enough …

lughi - 07/05/21

Did it work Lughi?, I have the same problem

Emanuel Loureiro -

Did it work? I have the same problem now.

ExitusVR Houston -

Schritt 17

Diese Federn erlauben dem Headset ca. 2,5 cm Spiel in die Länge.

Diese Federn erlauben dem Headset ca. 2,5 cm Spiel in die Länge.
So kann man das Rift einfach aufsetzen, ohne Riemen und Schnallen einstellen zu müssen.
Obwohl dieser Federmechanismus nützlich ist, ist er ebenso eine mögliche Fehlerstelle. Davon ausgehend, dass es recht kompliziert ist das Stirnband wieder zusammen zubauen, wird man sich schlussendlich wohl doch wieder auf seine Riemen und Schnallen verlassen müssen.

Schritt 18

Oculus Rift CV1 Repairability Score: 7 von 10
Die Kabelführung hat sich seit den Development Kits erheblich verbessert und die Stecker sind solide, was die Demontage einfacher gestaltet.
Die Kopfhörer sind dank der Federverbindungen einfach zu entfernen.
Der Rahmen ums Gesicht ist mit Plastikclips befestigt und einfach zu lösen.
Das Rift zu öffnen ist aufgrund der versteckten Clips im Inneren eher schwierig.
Es ist unmöglich, das Stirnband zu ersetzten ohne dabei durch den Stoff am Headset zu schneiden.
Kompliziertes Design und zarte Kabel machen es schwer, die Linsen, Displays oder das Motherboard auszubauen.

Könnt ihr die einzelnen Teile vom Bild mit den Fachwörter noch Beschreiben?

mone - 07/11/20

Tinte & Feder

Evan Noronha

Mitglied seit: 06/02/15

219164 Reputation

90 Kommentare

best

teardown

ever!

natthapolvanasrivilai - 30/03/16

Are you going to open up the cable, or constellation sensor?

Jim - 30/03/16

Keep checking in to find out ;)

Sam Goldheart - 30/03/16

Will you be checking to see if the Spectra7 chips are still being used with the HMD cable?

gabeh2 - 30/03/16

Awesome teardown! Loved the humor. Thanks for your hard work! I can't wait to receive my Rift.

Zach Fox - 30/03/16

What about the rack and pinion system? The camera? The remote? The cable?

Jason Znack - 30/03/16

Where is the microphone located?

Jack - 30/03/16

How about a teardown of the headphones!? Palmer Luckey demands it!

Josh Mills - 30/03/16

Why is the video private?

Jesse Ficarra - 30/03/16

Where is the Accelerometer, Gyroscope and Magnometer?

dhruvbole - 30/03/16

The accelerometer and gyroscope are a single chip (the Bosch BMI055) located on the motherboard. It's highlighted in pink in the above photo. I'm not sure about the magnetometer.

ProgHead777 - 03/04/16

For this application the MEMs are only used to track relative motion, and the camera system tracks absolute motion. Hence magnetometer is un-necessary. There is no magnetometer. BMI055 is the same MEMs used in GearVR CV1 (it gets away with not having a magnetometer by intermittently pulling from the phone's magnetometer to correct for orientation drift).

Robert - 25/05/16

Will you teardown the cable? Wondering if Spectra7 is still the chip. Thanks!!!

Michael Daniels - 30/03/16

Missing locations for microphone and IMU

gsbain - 30/03/16

the TI 59I C6F3 are OLEDDisplay Power Supply. I dont find any info on these, but the coils and the fact that they are 2, (1 was in dk2) proves my point.

patrickgtasanandreasmod - 30/03/16

nice teardown. the s in fresnel is silent, FYI. its french.

ccon - 30/03/16

Bosch Sensortec IMU (gyro + accelerometer) BMI055

marcellinogemel - 31/03/16

Thanks marcellinogemel! We've updated the teardown accordingly.

Evan Noronha - 31/03/16

Teardown not complete, Cable and chips in cable still a mystery? Do ur job right or forget about it!!!

macman1519 - 31/03/16

Dear iFixit team, please ignore that guy's rude remark. There are plenty of us here who respect your work who would in fact appreciate it if you did open the cables to see what kind of chips are inside.

Tester - 31/03/16

I need to know if the lenses can be rotated. I suffer from permanent torsional double vision and need to rotate the left lens to match my right eye for the picture to match up. This is the only thing stopping me from seeing in 3d.

Bradley Jobe - 31/03/16

Wouldnt it be easier to rotate the Image in software? Or am I just not understanding your condition?

John M - 31/03/16

Weird that Oculus didn't made a headphone jack to use your own headset with microphone.

Fermioncool Fermioncool - 31/03/16

The step 13 erroneously states that the stereoscopic display permanently focused at infinity relieves eyestrain. In fact fixed focus is a cause of eye strain due to an accommodation-vergence mismatch. In contrast an accommodative/ multifocal/ light field display or a retinal display would alleviate this cause of eye strain.

Jack Hayes - 31/03/16

well… i can stay 8 hours with the vr headset on without feeling eyestrain, but if i spend a few hours looking at the computer screen (and i have a 42” one) my eyes get stuck into a close focus. if i want to drive after spending a few hours at the pc, i have to close one eye because i get double vision because of stuck close focus. doesnt happen with vr tho. and with smaller screens its even worse, thats why i got a 42” tv as a screen…

Mike The Monk (MGTOW Monk) - 05/03/18

What about the timing controller? The displays are from samsung i guess?

Samuel Heenan - 31/03/16

It would be very interesting to see a teardown of the remote and the touch controllers as well! :)

Body Double - 31/03/16

Any idea of manufacturer and reference of the two display panels? Thanks

Cedric Pelvet - 31/03/16

So it sounds like it's upgrade capable to 4K resolution once displays are available! Nice!

Josh - 31/03/16

Not at the fps you want to hit with VR. That part can only do 30fps 4K but up to 120fps for full HD.

Rup G - 01/04/16

The "s" is silent in "Fresnel." :)

Suchit - 31/03/16

Well, you're not wrong but, neither is she :) http://www.merriam-webster.com/dictionar...

Sam Goldheart - 31/03/16

The dictionary has this habit of changing the meanings or pronunciations of a words once the incorrect way becomes commonplace. The definition of literally has changed to “figuratively” because so many used it incorrectly. Fresnel lenses are named after french physicist Augustin J. Fresnel. Saying it without a silent “s” is mispronouncing the name of the man who invented them and that shouldn't really be up for debate.

TL;DR the dictionary is wrong. ;)

Brandon Rulez - 13/02/18

Virtual Reality SUCKS.. Occulus Rift is already outdated.. ( Yup they are just like you guys and missed the Memo). The best new thing is Augmented Reality. Check out the Augmented Reality here, http://www.cnet.com/videos/we-spent-90-m...

Thomas - 01/04/16

This is an extremely ignorant comment. VR and AR are not competitors, they serve different purposes. For gaming - where frequently you are trying to insert the player into an environment that doesn't exist - VR is required. AR can't put me in the cockpit of an F15 or a starship - VR can. Ideal would be an AR/VR hybrid...an AR headset that can become completely opaque and block out the real world if desired...can current AR devices do that?

Eric Glasper - 01/10/16

Can we expect a further teardown at some point? Cable? Headphones? Etc...?

Michael Daniels - 01/04/16

I don't like the lenses at all. Yes Fresnel lenses are cheaper to make than regular lenses, but they cause significant artifacts. The whole idea that you focus the lenses by moving the whole headset up and down on your head doesn't allow for focussing each eye separately either. All in all it seems like a massive compromise in quality for a small cost saving, and probably singlehandedly explains the comments in most reviews about blurriness.

neilcoo - 01/04/16

I would like to know if the lenses have an anti reflective coating on the inside?

Eamon Ho - 02/04/16

Dimensions of the Fresnel lens would be amazing to know. Also the distances of the inner and outer surfaces from the display(s) and the eye. I think this is key to getting the eye focus correct. Are these similar to the ones on the Lenovo ANT VR Headset accessory? (Into which you insert your phone)

vinayrrao - 02/04/16

On day one you said

"We don't particularly love fiddly cables connecting two halves of our hardware, but at least they're nicely labeled for reassembly... More on that later."

I was wondering how much later?

gabeh2 - 04/04/16

When you first reviewed the Oculus CV1 you said:

"We don't particularly love fiddly cables connecting two halves of our hardware, but at least they're nicely labeled for reassembly... More on that later."

I was wondering how much later you had in mind? Thanks!

gabeh2 - 04/04/16

Is Spectra 7 still in the USB cable?

max - 05/04/16

I'd like to see the cable busted open as well

Michael Daniels - 05/04/16

Confirmed. It actually contains three S7 chips. See below:

Mackie Research performed an in-house teardown of the cables, which confirmed the inclusion of three of Spectra7's chips - two "VR 7050" and one "VR 7100."

Mike Hunter - 14/04/16

What's the total weight of the headset?

Andrew - 06/04/16

can you indicate if the Spectra7 chips are inside similar to the development kit teardown?

Aman - 07/04/16

Whats the estimated BOM? $200 maybe?

chapas - 07/04/16

Is this it? When do we get an actual teardown?

Michael Daniels - 07/04/16

Hi! Do you have a presskit with photos?

Erika - 28/04/16

Hi! do you have a presskit with photos?

Erika - 28/04/16

Is there a mapping of the IR sensors on the front of the headset? Would love to stick a graphic to the front of my Rift and dodge all the sensors..

F4CEpa1m - 06/05/16

Step five is wrong. If you managed to just remove the frame "with a few well-placed flicks of the spudger" then you ripped the small hexagon screws out of their respective threads.

Eddi Lecesne - 21/06/16

My first time using the ifixit site.

Need to get inside this thing for an on the job examination. I removed the cable and 6 T3 screws from the housing assembly, yet with all the prying I would DARE with 2 spudgers, I still cannot get "Kato's mask" to cleanly pull free from the headset housing. Also, the black fabric seems attached securely to the lenses. I'm stumped right here. Tried calling ifixit direct but could only leave a message.

Any ideas or advice? Thanks - Ernie@ECOTNY

Ernie - 23/08/16

Hi Ernie! This document wasn't intended to serve as instructions, but it sounds like you're in a bind—so, I checked with the tech writer who performed the CV1 teardown. According to him: "The first pic of step 5 shows the clips you've gotta declop—If i recall, it's kinda terrible. I think the trick is pulling up enough to see in there. Everything is pretty flexible." Not sure how much help that is, but good luck with your project! Eventually we hope to have a set of actual repair guides with instructions for the Rift CV1, sometime further down the road. Cheers!

Jeff Suovanen - 24/08/16

@ernieaecot Did you end up getting the clips off the lenses? Trying to get them off without tearing the fabric seems to be very tricky

Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Andrew White - 28/05/17

My unit came with the headband detached from the head mounted display. Particularly the left side. It leads mo to believe they sent me a returned product from previous customer, because my preorder came in sooner than August. I wish I could post photo because that would tell it all. I tried putting it back but it just breaks off. My problem is the 2 arms that holds the goggles that houses the chip, oled and etc, the left arm is detach and I am not sure if its designed this way. I know it allows some movement for adjustment. Please help.

preatorarsonist - 13/07/16

Hola, buenas tardes, i spoke little english, since you opened it , ¿ they believe can break easily fall to the ground facing the oculus ? I say this because they fell and did not detect the pc

adrian rom - 12/08/16

So after the tear down how would you get rid of the screen door effect?

brentarnold2002 - 20/08/16

Do the lenses have pincushion distortion and the displays barrel distortion to compensate, or have they been engineered to eliminate the need for display barrel distortion, and maintain full pixel resolution on the diagonal as well as the vertical.

harry - 04/11/16

Hi, Your work is great ! but just have a question is there a way to replace only the HDMI socket and would it work?

In my CV1 the pins in HDMI are bent and it results in seeing red dots and some lines mostly on the dark background.

I checked another cable and all is working fine so it is definitely either only the HDMI socket (most likely as I can see 2-3 bent pins) or the whole cable.

Thank You!

Rad Kon - 04/12/16

Hi, could you explain how the Headphones connect to allow the adjustable Straps? I have lost audio from the Left Speaker and can only get audio back if I loosen the Right side strap move it in or out!

Terence Glasgow - 21/01/17

Hey Terence, did you find a solution to your headphone issue? I'm having the same thing happen, now both don't work..

Jeremy - 02/03/17

Will be the flexible cable that runs through the head band. not much you can do about it. I have 7 Rifts here and only 1 is still working correctly. All under 12months old

Andy - 07/08/17

Do you have any info / insight on the components related to the IPD (inter pupillary distance) slider on the underside of the rift? I ask because it is linked with a digital, in-software readout that reports the current distance and that readout stopped working for me... was curious what kind of component linkage is going on with that slider... ? Didn't see any mention of this element of the Rift in the above article.

Jerome Graves - 23/01/17

I was wondering the same as I seem to have the same problem with my Rift.

Anne Caitlyn - 28/02/17

Its a small linear potentiometer. Left eye piece bracket moves the pot. possibly dropped out of the holder if it's been dropped. should be an easy fix

Andy - 07/08/17

I want to fix my oculus cv1

How could we contact?!

Dr_samah Mohamed - 20/02/17

My oculus was dropped. the right lens has a line going through it. how would I fix it?

PK _Gaming - 18/05/17

how to diassemble head strap?

no sound my right speaker

구정훈 - 18/10/17

Is it possible to remove the lenses so I can clean the inside? I have moisture inside the lenses and it ruins the experience!! I need to know if I can just fix it or RMA.

Trevor Tencza - 21/12/17

Is it possible to teardown the rift so I can clean the inside of the lenses? I have moisture on the inside of the lenses which creates unbearable “god rays”. I’m not sure if I’m able to fix it or try to RMA?

Trevor Tencza - 21/12/17

It's probably not moisture.. Fresnel lenses just suck like that

Brandon Rulez - 13/02/18

Anyone been able to identify the flexible cable that seems to be failing on many of these devices under normal operation (stretching of the side straps to put on/off head) and breaking inbuilt Rift audio?

Mine just broke of course 2 months out of warranty and Oculus basically told me to go eat a d!ck and buy a new one.

Should be an option to replace these for those out of warranty

Globe Spy - 14/05/18

How did you remove the small button that adjusted the lens distance?

chenchen - 21/06/18

Would airbrushing the front affect the ir tracking

Dustin Goodwin - 22/10/18

%#*@^@, still no solution for this known fail of the right earphone and the ribbon ?

where to find a replacement ribbon to fix this ?

net shaman - 08/01/19

Hello,

I'm selling Oculus CV1 Parts, you can contact me by e-mail at: "totto99@gmx.de". I'm from Germany so be aware of shipping cost. Currently I offer a lot of parts, because i bought a broken one Just for a working Screen. Some interesting things might be:

- 1 left Lens

- 1 right Display + Lens Combo

- whole outer housing

- HDMI connection cable for PC

Ofcourse you can also buy ALL the remainings parts (everything execpt the left Screen).

Tobias Otto - 08/03/19

I send you a email

mazdamx33 - 23/04/19

what dioptric power was the lens and how much did it vary along the vertical axis?

Mei Boon - 04/11/19

Thanks for the info!!! My headset is starting to freeze. I got in touch with Oculus, they checked some logs, and said it is getting hot, and of course, it is out of warranty. Is there enough space on the cowl to drill little holes in it to get some air flow going?..OR if I cut some foam off the mask, would that do the same thing? Any help would be appreciated

Terry Landis - 23/12/19

a w e s o m e

Or Lev-Cohen - 01/01/20

Hello I have a HDMI to sell in parts as there is no replacement for mine. check ebay. If your looking for parts.

Thx for the tear down, it helped a lot.

Felipe Gar - 22/04/20

Buenas, una consulta, ¿es posible cambiarle un sola pantalla, volviendo a poner al vacio con el lente???

Pablo Passaniti - 10/06/20

Is it possible to change a single (only) screen? or are the two synchronized??

Pablo Passaniti - 10/06/20

do you know if an oculus rift or htc vive replacement cable can fit inside hp vr1000-100?

Tommy Jørgensen - 25/06/20

The audio ribbon cable on my head strap broke. Is there anyway I can fix it to make my OEM headphones work? Can’t I just overlap the two ends and tape it down?

Bryan Bishop - 05/11/20

It’s a shame you couldn’t do more with the headstrap. The ribbon cable in there is a prime point of failure for the headphones, particularly the ground line which wraps around the back of the head from one headphone to the other (rather than both being fed from the headset)

abrannan -

The headband can be removed, but you have to cut the fabric shell of the headset to do it. There’s a pair of clips on each side of the headset holding the top and bottom halves together. If you cut the fabric over the seam, you can separate the halves and slide the headband attachment points out of the shell (after removing the 4 screws holding each in place).

abrannan -

Nice work there.

Too bad you didn’t take a look at the weakest link of the whole thing. The cable. :/

Dominik -

I have a rift and I want to know if you can actually take out the strap off from the sides. I noticed you guys didn't. The Headband springs did not let you take it apart?

ExitusVR Houston -