Einleitung

After a solid four year run, this old PSP has seen better days. Countless bumps and grazes and now it's pretty much inoperable. So, what better time to teardown a pricey product than when it's broken beyond repair?

If you're here, you love a bit of circuitry, so let's get to it.

This is a relatively long teardown, so buckle up!

NOTE: Please be aware that this teardown is not intended for re-assembly.

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    • This is the easy part, place the PSP upside down, on its top side.

    • There's only one screw to take out here. Since I'm no genius when it comes to screw sizes, I'll let you pick the right one from your set of twenty.

    • Remove the battery cover.

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    • Start by removing the three screws highlighted by the red circles.

    • Take care when removing the forth screw, as it's slightly tighter than the rest. This screw is highlighted in blue.

    • This is the point of no return, if you choose go on, you're voiding your warranty. So, carefully peel back the warning sticker all the way off.

    • You'll find two small screws concealed below the label, remove those screws.

    this is a test again

    Eric -

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    • You can now start to carefully pry the top cover from the unit, using the spudger. Start from right to left, leveraging slowly.

    • Contrary to what this picture might suggest, this PSP hasn't contracted chickenpox. Each red circle indicates a screw that you need to remove.

    • Carefully unclip the connector circled in red.

    Before removing the top cover, be sure to undo the screw near the bottom of the screen.

    Kris Bardin -

    To remove the circled connector (ribbon cable), you must carefully lift the plastic "bail" that holds the ribbon cable in place. These bails are on every ribbon connector in the PSP 1000. A fingernail works best; they are fragile!

    Lynn Eldridge -

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    • Open the UMD slot. With the screen facing towards you, unclip the locks at the bottom right outer-side of the hinge, and the bottom left, inner-side of the hinge. Remove this component.

    • Remove the four newly revealed screws, in any order. If you're afraid of commitment, you might like to assign each screw a number between 1-4, and decide using a random number generator. Remove this component.

    • Place the PSP face up, with the joystick side on the right. There are two lock clips located on the right side of the LCD, unhinge these. Remove this component.

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    • Now don't get all gung-ho, be careful when detaching the LCD, as it's attached with two connectors. You can unlock these connectors by pulling back the brown latches VERY carefully.

    • Same deal again, go crazy with remove the screws highlighted in red... Crazy in a calm and collected way. Remove this component.

    • Disconnect these two cables.

    The jis00 is better for the psp's screws

    Haris Kyritsis -

    Be very careful with the screen's frame, as prying on it can easily crack the LCD! Patience is your most-accessed tool when working on your PSP.

    Lynn Eldridge -

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    • Remove the screw labelled in red (to the top right of the device, the other is incorrectly labeled in the image). These are holding down the main circuit board.

    • Almost there, if you've come this far, I commend you on your effort! Again, carefully pry open the cable lock and remove the WiFi component.

    • Remove the circuit board, this might be the most important step. Sit back and gaze at the chips for at least 5-8 minutes. NOTE: You can come back to this step at any point.

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    • You can now remove the WiFi board and chip, along with the metal plate.

    • The chip Sony used in the original PSP could pick up wireless G bands, which made it a nippy handheld network device for its time.

    • At the time, £280 worth of circuitry, wires, metal and plastic. Beautiful sight.

    I like the photo where you show all the parts. It could be on it's own step...

    Mitra Cline -

    Zitat von mitra:

    I like the photo where you show all the parts. It could be on it's own step...

    Done :)

    Armin Talic -

    poor tutorial, half the steps are missing, thanks for making me have a load of left over screws and some plastic bracket..

    Olivier Henny -

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    • You're all done, this step is just to bring the steps in this teardown to an even number :)

    • Mmm... circuits. SIDE NOTE: I'm not certain, but I think that the chips circled in red control the DRM for the device ;)

    • P.s. Apologies for the relatively low-res images, but it's the best my camera could muster.

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    • By request, I've also included the component overview as its own step in the process.

Armin Talic

Mitglied seit: 18/10/09

520 Reputation

7 Kommentare

What about repairability score

fghjsfj -

Written by ifixit = repairability score

not Made By ifixit = no repairility score

Lucas Hoekstra (Lucas9810) -

So I just did this and I love the result. I actually had a PSP-3001 so the step with the clips was confusing but I figured it out! I can't believe I took apart a PSP worth $411! It was so funnnn

Amelia Witt -

Leonardo Jovani v. lazer it working as I press down what makes it light up n just got my gran tursimo working but it blackscreen again should I return n get used again frm same seller or repair with sony? email me gioo239@gmail.com or text me 239-203-8318

Leonardo Jovani Vazquez -

Hi, I replaced the case on my psp1000. When I put the thing back together I found the power switch doesn’t spring back like it used to. So if I turn the PSP on I have to physically push the switch back into the middle position otherwise it turns off again. Is there some sort of spring mechanism that I’ve missed? I have replaced the plastic switch and the yellow tab that it clips into. How does the spring mechanism work exactly? Hope this makes sense. Thanks!

Mike Fong -

It’s a lockdown, ordered parts and follow this instruction. What a great result to my psp1003 that nearly been throw into recycle bin. Yes my ifixit tools never let me down.

ANUAR Saad -

Muchas gracias exelente explicación muy entendible y acertada muchas gracias

Fidel Vega -