Starbucks Barista Teardown

Geschrieben von: Andrew Bookholt
Veröffentlicht: 31/07/09
  • Kommentare: 139

Starbucks Barista Teardown

Veröffentlicht: 31/07/09

Teardown

Einleitung

We're taking apart Starbucks' brew-it-yourself Barista Espresso Maker to take the mystery out of these relatively simple espresso machines.

This espresso machine uses pump pressure to brew concentrated coffee, and steam pressure to make frothy milk. A steam wand found on nearly every espresso machine allows the operator to froth and steam milk to make drinks ranging from the simple cappuccino to the addictive macchiato. Let's dig inside Starbuck's most popular model to see exactly how it makes these wonderful caffeinated beverages we love so much.

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    • The Starbucks Barista Espresso Maker is marketed for home use and is generally regarded as a good beginner's espresso machine.

    • The Barista will allow you to:

    • Brew espresso.

    • Steam milk.

    • Lose your masculinity.

    • We started the teardown by removing the accessory drawer, drip tray, and water tank. All three parts simply slide out of the frame.

    Very good. But, Please include schematic. It is crucial for repair.

    Mike Trachtneberg -

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    • Remove the six Phillips screws securing the chrome rear panel to the Barista.

    • Once the chrome panel is gone, you get a pretty comprehensive look at what makes the Barista boil. Major components include:

    • A reciprocating pump.

    • A pressure release valve

    • A boiler (with an internal heating coil).

    • A steam valve which, as you guessed it, allows steam into the steam wand for making frothy milk.

    • A bird's nest of wiring supplying power to everything.

    • Remove all the Phillips screws holding the AC power cord and distribution block to the frame.

    I took off the 6 screws but could not remove the stainless steel cover. It seems there are 2 braces holding the cover on in the front of the unit. This barrista is one of the first maybe 24 years old. Mashed is just worn out. It needs a new rubber basket and seals. It does not put out espresso like it used to.

    Ken E Smith -

    Maybe it's just worn out.

    Ken E Smith -

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    • Our first target was the pump.

    • The pump is responsible for drawing water up from the reservoir to keep the boiler supplied with water... to boil.

    • First, remove the two clear plastic hoses from the barb fittings on either end of the pump.

    • When removing hoses from barb fittings, it is helpful to use a probe (the tip of a spudger in our case) to separate the hose from the metal fitting before pulling it off.

    • One hose is responsible for drawing water up from the reservoir and the other returns excess water if the boiler is filled to capacity and reaches the preset pressure of the pressure release valve.

    The tear down instructions are very clear and easy to follow, and the photos are excellent. However, there is a basic misunderstanding, as to how the espresso machine functions. Steam has nothing to do with pressure needed to press the hot water through the espresso grounds. The pump not only draws up water to the boiler, it also develops 15 bar pressure, pumping the hot water through the filter. Steam is produced, for the purpose of steaming milk, by activating the steam switch.

    Dave -

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    • Use a wrench to remove the boiler hose from the pressure release valve.

    • Remove the two slotted screws securing the pump brackets to the frame of the Barista.

    • The simple angled rubber pump brackets are designed to absorb vibration from the reciprocating pump.

    • Disconnect the two female AC power spade connectors from the pump and slip the thermal fuse out from its holder on the body of the pump.

    • The thermal fuse is a normally closed protective switch that opens the circuit once the pump has reached a critical temperature, thus shutting it down before the coil melts.

    The 'Pump manifold' is actually a pressure release valve that returns water to the reservoir when the pump is working and the boiler is full and water pressure reaches the set point of the pressure release valve.

    GM Putra -

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    • Remove the two Phillips screws from the pump manifold and lift it off the end of the pump, minding the two locking tabs near its base.

    • The pump used in the Barista utilizes the electromechanical properties of a solenoid to pump water up from the reservoir.

    • An iron core placed in the center of a cylindrical coil of wire is reciprocated back and forth through the coil when AC voltage is applied to it. Springs on either end of the core absorb its kinetic energy.

    • The core is attached to a plunger (outlined in green) that fits tightly into a cylinder on the pump manifold which creates the pumping action when the core moves back and forth.

    • The pressure difference between the inside of the cylinder and the water tank causes water to be drawn up from the reservoir into the pump, whenever the steam valve is opened, to assure the boiler is supplied with water.

    A micro (1/8” diameter) plastic sphere flew out when I removed the pump manifold. Where does this belong so I can reassemble the pump and get this thing working again?

    Ross -

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    • Disconnect the spade connectors from the digital switch near the steam valve knob.

    • When you open the steam valve knob (to steam your milk), a cam attached to its shaft presses the digital switch, closing the circuit. This either starts the pump, gives power to the heater, or both, to produce steam (we don't have a circuit schematic).

    The wiring diagram is found here: http://www.partsguru.com/user/Wire%20Dia...

    Dave -

    That's a (exploded) parts diagram, not a wiring diagram, not a schematic.

    Rich -

    Actually, the link is not working at all, which isn't surprising given that the comment is nearly 4 years old. Here's an updated link to the wiring schematic:

    http://www.partsguru.com/user/Wire%20Dia...

    If and when that link stops working, you should be able to find all the Barista diagrams and manuals here:

    http://www.partsguru.com/SaecoRioProfi.h...

    Henry H -

    AAAND…. now your link is broken, Rich. So now we go to, you guessed it, ifixit!

    Schematic and Troubleshooting Starbucks Barista SIN 006

    Enjoy.

    mike davis -

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    • Disconnect the two large connector blocks.

    • Several power leads connect to the three switches on the front face of the Barista for different operating modes. They include:

    • Device Power (On/Off)

    • Brew

    • Steam

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    • Use an 8 mm bit driver to remove the four hex bolts from around the perimeter of the boiler (only two are shown).

    • Remove the 2 mm hex set screw from the steam valve knob and pull it away from the piping to remove it from the Barista.

    • At this point, the boiler is free from the Barista and can be removed.

    my machine does not seem to have a hex screw on the steam valve knob. not sure what to do here...

    Kelly H Meyer -

    The hex screw may have simply fallen out, because the machine was designed for it to be there.

    mike davis -

    I removed the hex screw but can’t get the knob to separate from the piping, is it common for things to be pretty stuck together or is there a trick a missing?

    Michael del Rio -

    Absolutely, it is very likely stuck, but once the hex screw is loosened sufficiently, you simply unscrew the entire steam valve knob counter clockwise. It will come out, and there is a separate valve stem inside that will fall out if you aren’t paying attention.

    mike davis -

    Well, you can’t remove the 4 hex bolts in this way. first you have to remove the 4 crown hex bolts first on the exterior of the machine, where the Portafilter attaches. At this point, you can separate the boiler from the frame. Now you can use an 8mm bit driver, in combination with an 8mm wrench on the hex nuts, to separate the boiler into its individual parts. The details are important.

    mike davis -

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    • We will now focus on opening the heart of the Barista: the boiler.

    • Remove the four hex bolts securing the brew head to the boiler assembly.

    • Lift the brew head off the boiler.

    • Remove the single Phillips screw securing the brew screen and gasket to the boiler housing.

    • The brew screen helps to evenly disperse water across the grounds in the basket.

    • Use a a large standard screwdriver (we used a washer and a pair of pliers) to remove the one-way valve spring retainer from the bottom of the boiler.

    • The one-way valve spring is tuned to only allow the valve to open when the pump is running. This prevents the brew head from dripping while warming up.

    The one way spring valve has nothing to do with the operating temperature or pressure. It is only there to keep the water from leaking out of the boiler until the switch for espresso, which starts the pump, is actuated.

    Dave -

    The screw holding the perforated plate in has burred and we can't get it out. Took it to an electrical repair shop and they couldn't budge it either. Any ideas?

    nicki -

    If the screw head is completely stripped out, as a last resort you can pry up one side of the brew screen with a flat blade screwdriver and turn the screen itself with a pair of pliers. This will usually turn the screw as well, and once it's out you can either re-flatten the screen or just replace it with a new one.

    Henry H -

    Help! The brew screen screw on my beloved Starbucks Barista has nothing to screw into. The threading on the boiler side (ie. it's the part you turn in step 10) is cracked and 1/4 of it is missing. Can this piece be replaced on its own or do I need to replace the bottom of the boiler shown in step 10?

    Edie -

    Upon further research, the part I'm referring to is the mushroom valve holder and it's # D2-45 on this site http://espressocare.com/Qstore/Qstore.cg....

    Will I need to take apart the boiler to replace this part? I can access the part without opening up the appliance but I'm wondering if I'll mess up the lower parts of the boiler if I attempt to remove.

    Edie -

    Edie, that part should unscrew from the bottom of the boiler; taking the boiler apart won't gain you any more access to it then you already have. It's designed to come out so you won't mess anything up removing and replacing it, but make sure you don't lose the spring and nipple that are inside it. They are vital to keep the brew head from dripping.

    Henry H -

    Thank you, Henry. I'll order the part and attempt to replace it.

    Edie -

    Edie, did you succesfully replace the mushroom valve holder? What tool was required? Thanks! Grant

    grantschauer -

    I have a steam wand that's working fine. However, when I try to use the portafilter, nothing ever comes out and it sounds like it's boiling. The pump checks out fine. Any suggestions?

    Heidi Watson -

    Will water flow through an empty portafilter? If so then either your coffee is ground too fine / you're tamping too hard, or your pump is failing. How did you determine your pump "checks out"?

    Henry H -

    Recently the brew screen (screen attached to the bottom of the boiler unit screwed into the mushroom boiler valve) ended up in my portafilter. I thought, "no biggie-- just screw it back in." Well, that isn't working-- screw has somehow become too short (though it doesn't appear to be stripped or broken). Ideas? Here are mine, would love some feedback.

    1. Maybe it IS slightly stripped and not catching.

    2. Maybe there is an issue with my mushroom boiler valve-- went up into the machine?

    2a. I cannot unscrew my mushroom boiler valve for the life of me-- tried many different times with various tools.

    Suggestions before I start aimlessly buying pieces and trying to replace things? Much appreciated! ~ Stephen

    Stephen Cormier -

    Exactly the same problem here. I screwed it back in once or twice but not it will no longer catch the threads at all.

    I also thought the screw had somehow become to short or threads stripped ,

    but in fact the screw is now too narrow to catch the threads on the mushroom valve holder.

    Perhaps the valve holder cracked/expanded slightly similar to what Eddie described above - but either way im stuck and open to ideas.

    @stephen how did you fix your problem?

    James Adams -

    I had the same problem. I cannot unscrew the boiler valve as well. I just cut a bigger thread (M5) and used an M5 screw accordingly.

    John Steed -

    I cannot get the bushing out and am afraid of stripping the slotted face. In hopes that is was the pump or main gasket, I replaced both but no change. The water doesn’t spray from head the way my other one does, just sort of dribbles through holes in screen.

    1. Is this the mushroom valve?

    2. Can I send a video or pic of ‘dribble’ and get opinions?

    3. If mushroom valve, any suggestions on how to remove bushing with tapping it. Replacements are difficult to come by and apparently they changed length?

    Tia- David knox

    David -

    Does anyone know if tweaking the one-way valve would have any effect on the flow of water coming through? My machine works but the extraction time is very short, below 10 seconds for 1.5 oz of coffee. I've been changing the grind size, amount of coffee and tamping differently but nothing increased the extraction time. I read a comment saying to increase the extraction time “you should use the group tightener to tighten the screw on the underside of the group head”. I'm not sure what that exactly is, best I can tell it's referring to the one way valve.

    Buco Bucolini -

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    • Use a flat blade screwdriver to separate the two halves of the boiler. Inside the boiler, you can see the main components:

    • Boiler housing (to contain water and steam).

    • Heater coil.

    • Dual thermal sensors, presumably one to maintain steam temperature and one for max temperature shut down.

    • The bottom portion of the boiler housing has a rigid hose reaching toward the top of the boiler to draw water from the top to keep the heater coil immersed in water.

    • There are also two Klixon thermal sensors. The numbers stamped around their bases are:

    • 1NT01L-0036 L95-10 9910 M 10/250~T200

    • 1NT01L-0499 L127-15 9912 M 10/250~T200

    TI spun off Klixon to Sensata; their product page for the 1NT family can be found here:

    http://www.sensata.com/klixon/thermostat...

    They have distributor info linked at the bottom of the page.

    HTH.

    DrZ -

    One of the thermal sensors is for the normal brewing temperature and the second one is for steam temperature, and is activated by the steam switch. Both sensors turn on the green light, and turn off the heating element, when the appropriate temperature is reached.

    Dave -

    There's detailed drawing and parts breakdown with ordering info for all parts here.

    Peter Quirk -

    You can get the two thermal sensors, listed as the Saeco Brew Thermostat 95c, and the Saeco Steam Thermostat 127C, from Stefano's Espresso Care, http://www.espressocare.com/. At the site go to Parts>Home Line/Prosumer>Saeco, then scroll down page 2 and you will find the parts listed.

    Taylor Arnicar -

    My machine will trip the GFI as soon as the power button is pressed. There is continuity across the heating element contacts. The ground fault, however, seems to exist somewhere within the boiler unit. I am leaning this way due to the fact that there is also continuity between the heating element contacts and the boiler body itself (including any metal that is touching the boiler body, like the ground plate). I need to pick up a 2mm hex driver so that I can pull the boiler out. Any guess on what I may find when I do manage to open it up?

    Chase -

    Chase, that points to a ruptured or otherwise compromised heating element. Luckily, it's replaceable and the part isn't very expensive.

    Henry H -

    What is the size of the boiler’s o-ring?

    Taylor Carr -

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    • And there you have it: the dissected Barista.

    • No actual baristas were harmed during the teardown of this device.

    • Be sure to keep an eye on our Teardown page for an inside look at the latest gadgets.

    Thanks for the marvelous tear down instructions. Question. I have this same mdl barista and the water/steam or whatever that goes from the machine into the coffee grounds doesn't seem as powerful as it once did. Do you recommend a full teardown and cleaning or is there something less intrusive I can do? Thanks!

    bradi -

    great instructions and pics. Problem with my machine is that after more than a year of almost daily use, water leaks from the steam wand while the machine is warming up and I can never seem to close that valve (using the knob) completely. I hesitate to take the machine completely apart as I know I'll never be get it all back together and working correctly!

    What do I need to focus on in the area describe above?

    mark -

    The steam thermostat controls steaming temperature and consequent pressure. They may "drift" and change state (turn off) at a lower temperature, but that would be my second guess. My first guess is that the steam nozzle is clogged. You can use a safety pin to clean it out. The steam valve controls steam flow; it has a nylon seat and an o-ring. If it's not the nozzle or thermostat, I'd suspect that the valve seat is somehow jacked.

    Rich -

    Thanks for this teardown; a colleague sent it to me because he know that I had ones of these handy kitchen appliances that I use regularly--not just for espressos, but also for steaming milk for hot chocolate. I often wondered how I could brew "the perfect shot!"

    rpeters -

    Zitat von bradi:

    Thanks for the marvelous tear down instructions. Question. I have this same mdl barista and the water/steam or whatever that goes from the machine into the coffee grounds doesn't seem as powerful as it once did. Do you recommend a full teardown and cleaning or is there something less intrusive I can do? Thanks!

    Definitely take a look at your Barista Owner's Manual. It tells you how to clean your machine (without having to tear it down!). Hopefully that should take care of any problems.

    By the way, you can grab a PDF version of the manual from Starbucks if you don't have your paper copy.

    Miroslav Djuric -

    Does anyone know if the thermostats control the pump operation at all? I am having a problem where the pump is on for plus/minus 5-6 seconds, stops, then after turning power switch off, after 10 seconds or so, there is an audible "click " (presumably a reset) and am able to do the same thing over again. This can be done again and again, but am not sure what is tripping that needs to be replaced. I would think the thermal fuses are like most fuses - they trip and are not reusable or resettable. Thanks in advance for any thoughts.

    steveyum1 -

    They do not, they only control the heating element and what temperature it's at. The one thermal breaker in the machine is a fusible-link type, so when that trips it has to be replaced. Any chance you have the machine plugged into a GFCI outlet and is that is what's clicking off and back on again?

    Henry H -

    Actually, I’ve found one more thermal cutoff beside the fusible-link found on the pump. If you look closely at the top of the boiler, you’ll see a wire, fastened down tightly with heat shrink around it. In your pictures it’s silver-colored and is held down by clamps on top of the boiler. It looks to be wrapped with aluminum and then clear heat shrink. It comes directly from the “hot” side of the 120v line (in North American machines). On my particular machine the heat shrink looks different, and underneath the heat shrink it’s a Fuji thermal fuse, stamped “S143”. It’s rated at 240 Volts, 15 Amperes, 147ºC. My machine is simply dead, with nothing at all happening when plugged in and turned on, so I was searching for the culprit and this fuse tests open on my machine.

    Just thought I’d mention this, in case anyone has had the same problem, though I’d imagine it’s fairly rare for this to fail.

    The only place I’ve found an exact replacement is here:

    https://www.componentonline.com/product/...

    carterbrian -

    Edit, 1hr later: yes, I can confirm that the part in my post above was the culprit. It had “bricked” my Barista and is indeed a thermal cutoff fuse. I nabbed a similar fuse from another Saeco espresso machine, this one labeled as a 152ºC cutoff fuse, but a different brand, “Microtemp”. A search of the internets has revealed that this is the “Kleenex” or “Xerox” of thermal cutoff fuses; Microtemp may have been the main manufacturer of these in days past.

    The 152ºC Microtemp fuse tested closed, the defective older fuse open. Since the leads, connectors and length were nearly identical I easily installed it in the same place, and everything works.

    So if you have a Saeco/ Starbucks machine that’s failing to power up— Step 2, Pic 2, above: see where the hot (black) leg of the AC line cord enters the terminal block? The brown wire on the other side of the terminal block is clamped to the top of the boiler underneath that heat shrink.

    That’s the main thermal fuse. Replace. About 150ºC. Must be rated 240V, 15A.

    carterbrian -

Tinte & Feder

Andrew Bookholt

578335 Reputation

92 Kommentare

I used this instruction to pull out the pump but felt the pump was the problem and since I did not see a "fix an ULKA model E Type EX5" guide here I looked again to the net and found this site:

http://ulkapumprepair.blogspot.com/2008/...

Seems like the pump not working is a common problem so I hope this helps you all out there.

Preston -

The pump in this machine is actually not a common failure point, but it is the first thing many people assume is the problem due to their lack of troubleshooting experience and general operational knowledge of espresso machines. Given that a new pump can be had for as little as $30 and they often last 10-15 years we've found it isn't worth the time trying to repair a failed pump, especially since if one part has deteriorated to the point of failure then others are sure to follow. I can certainly understand the desire to fix what you've got rather then replace it though, it's what got me into this business in the first place.

Henry H -

I got the Barista Starbucks machine apart, but I can't find a place to order the part that needs replacing. Fixit doesn't have it!!

Karin -

www.partsguru.com has most of not all of the parts needed for the Barista.

Henry H -

https://www.espressocare.com/products/sa...

Jim M -

Ive had this machine for many years and has served me well,in looking to upgrade to a better machine i've met with conflicting reviews and complaints on many machines.question;so whats wrong with the Barrister?not 15 bars of pressure and no temperature control,can i upgrade this machine?

pete -

The Barista does have a 15 bar pump but it is regulated down to around 9 bar, just like almost every other consumer machine on the market. More bars does not equal a better beverage.

No matter what machine you look at there will be people eager to share their opinion about how it's the best machine ever or that it doesn't make "real" espresso". Unless you're planning on making coffee for them their opinions aren't really relevant. I would instead try to figure out what you don't like about your Barista and then select a machine that would improve on those qualities. Some examples might be: recovery time after pulling a shot (solution: larger boiler and/or heating element), time spent switching between coffee and steam modes (solution: separate steam boiler or thermoblock), inconsistent shot quality due to temperature variations (solution: electronic temp control / PID), incompatibility with commercial accessories (solution: 58mm brew head), etc. If you can't think of any then keep enjoying your Barista.

Henry H -

I need some help. I ordered a new pump and the machine will still not pump water out of the tank. There is no suction from the pressure relief valve although there is suction from the l shapped fitting at the back of the pump. For some reason it will not draw water from the tank. Please help

Brad P -

Try unhooking the pump from the boiler (the outlet side) and then see if it will draw water. If so, then the issue isn't the pump but rather something blocking the flow of water from reaching or passing through the brew head or steam wand. If this is the case then it's likely your original pump was just fine.

Henry H -

I took the sin 006 apart as the instructions. Cleaned it. Put it back together. Now the pump won't come on. The boiler element heats. I didn't take the pump apart. Started to by loosening the two screws but decided not to. I can't find any loose wires. Help?

Jeff -

If neither the knob or coffee button will activate the pump, I would double-check that all the wires are in the right places and that your switches are working (check them with a multi-meter).

Henry H -

The steamer on my Starbucks Barista model Sin 006 is acting up. When I turn the steamer on the water just shoots out and has a tendency to boil the milk. Even after I let all of the water flow out of the steamer it still feels quite strong. Any ideas. Thanks Denis

Denis Pregnolato -

Too-strong steam is not often a complaint, I'm not sure if I'm understanding your question. If the machine has reached proper steam temperature then there should be very little water coming out of the wand when you open the knob; you should get pure steam almost instantly. If you're getting mostly water and not much steam then the machine isn't at the proper temperature, either because you haven't waited long enough, there's scale buildup that's interfering with the heating process or something is broken/malfunctioning.

Henry H -

Does anyone know why a machine like this would stop working after descaling ? I used a typical due descaling powder twice now. Each time, the pressure release on the PortaFilter stopped working (in other words you could hear the pump working, water going in, but then nothing coming through the Pf. It sounds similar to if you try to use coffee that's ground too fine). Both times I've replaced the PF. The first time was at a shop so it worked I.e. They also cleaned the thing. This time I bought a new PF online, but even when it's empty the problem persists. Not enough pressure? Blockage upstream?

Thoughts???

Sylvia -

I've had 3 of these machine (on my 4th). The main problem with these machines have been the heating coil. Each time I've opened up the boiler, i see all my descaling gunk and clacium, grounds sitting and basically filled inside the boiler. You might want to look in the boiler. Once I cleaned it out, mine worked so much better (that is until the heating coil blew up).

mfgdeux -

Water leaks from the steam valve when I just run turn the machine to run water with the steam valve. I pulled the valve out and found a couple of rubber o-rings and a white nylon bushing at the tip. I'm not sure. Which one is the culprit.

Eric Ashihara -

My Barista is pumping water through the Porta filter very slowly. The sound of the pump is also very quiet. If I open the steam valve a bit while brewing the pump get louder and much stronger through the wand. I have cleaned the screen and descaled.

Bad pump? Something else?

Scott2na -

If you've gone through the descaling procedure and the water still flows slowly, you will have to take apart the the boiler and clean out the scale deposits manually. It will look like it is full of sand when you take it apart; this is what is clogging the machine. Once you d this it should work like new.

cardogab7341 -

Slow dispensing from the portafilter is usually due to (in order of likelihood) a clogged coffee basket, coffee ground too fine or tamped too hard, a clogged portafilter or a failing pump.

Henry H -

cardogab7341, since some water is dispensing from the brewhead a scale clog would not be a correct diagnosis in this case. It's exceptionally rare for scale to clog the brewhead on this machine; that amount of scale buildup would be causing other, more obvious issues first.

Henry H -

My 2 yr-old via venezia (which I use daily) began puffing an unpleasant, white smoke this morning after pulling a couple of shots and beginning steaming. It's shut down (of course) until I get it repaired. Go for the heating element, or some other part?

BobW -

Bob, it could be the heating element but I've replaced more then I can count and never seen one produce smoke, even after flaking to pieces. If the machine trips a GFCI when on then that's probably your culprit. The other possibility is some milk got into the boiler and is now cooking off; that's a fairly horrible smell and might produce what looks like smoke. You can try to cook it off with more steaming but once it gets on the heating element it's usually on there for good.

Henry H -

My steam wand works fine and water flowing through an empty portafilter flows fine but when I fill the portafilter, the same grind I've always used and even barely tamp it, the coffee trickles out very slowly. Is my pump going out? I have descaled it and it hasn't helped.

Lois -

That does sound like a failing pump, yes. You could try a slightly coarser grind to limp it along but you'll probably end up with sub-standard shots.

Henry H -

Did you do a flow test to determine if the machine is de-scaled thoroughly?

First, clean the showerhead screen extremely well. Then do a flow test through the brew head (without the portafilter). Water should pour at a rate of 8 fl. oz. per 35-45 seconds, or less. If it pours closer to 50 seconds, then the machine needs to be descaled (please see instructions).

To verify that the portafilter is okay, do a water flow test with an empty portafilter. The rate should be approximately 2 fl. oz. of water per 15-20 seconds. If it’s closer to 25 seconds, check the basket screen and possibly soak it in decalcification solution.

The pump rarely goes out. Flow problems are usually caused by scale buildup either in the lines or inside the boiler. Sometimes the scale build up is bad enough that de-scaling won't be enough and you will have to take the boiler apart to remove the build-up. If the flow rate through the steam wand is OK but through the brew head it is not, then this may be your problem.

cardogab7341 -

cardogab7341, I have to respectfully disagree with your assessment. In my experience repairing these and similar machines it's extremely rare to have brew head flow issues caused by scale buildup, and I have seen some seriously neglected machines. In order of frequency, coffee flow issues on this machine are caused by: a clogged basket/portafiler, a leaking steam wand diverting water pressure, coffee that's ground too fine or tamped too hard, a failing pump, and last and most certainly least, a scale clog at the boiler outlet valve.

The brew head is fed by a feeder tube that pulls water from the top of the boiler (where it's the hottest) so a boiler would need to be almost completely full of scale before any could get into this tube and make it's way down to the boiler valve and clog it; the inside of the tube itself seldom collects any scale. Scale buildup in these machines effects warm up time and steaming performance, but little else.

Henry H -

Hi Guys,

I've had my machine for almost 10 years; it's been awesome! About 2 years ago, it had a short circuit and the breaker went off for that part of the kitchen (where the machine was situated). My husband got a cable and fixed it. Last week , it did the same thing again. I'm wondering if I change the cable, if it will last me 2 more years. Has anyone gone through this same problem?

Rachele Reese -

Hi Guys,

I've had my machine for 10 years, and it's been great! About 2 years ago, the cable went bad, it had a short circuit. My husband went online, found the cable and repaired it. Last week, however, it happened again. I'm wondering if it will last me 2 more years when we repair it one more time. Has anyone gone through this experience? It seems odd that it has happened twice at two different electric outlets. Thanks

Rachele Reese -

Is the machine tripping the GFCI outlet that it's plugged into? If so then most likely the heating element has cracked/ruptured and is allowing voltage to escape into the water in the boiler. This would have nothing to do with the machine's power cord, and instead requires that the boiler be rebuilt with a new heating element.

Henry H -

Water leaks from the top of what I think is called the portafilter - it's the part with handle where you put the coffee. I think I need something called pressure insert that goes underneath the portafilter basket is missing. Any ideas? Thank you!

Cynthia Dunn -

I have this same problem. I ordered a new portafilter gasket that inserts into the breehead but it's still leaking. I would love some guidance. I miss using my machine.

Bradley Pirman -

My barista is acting wonky and I'm not sure where to even start. If the espresso button is depressed, it immediately starts brewing. Not necessarily ready. And the knob isn't turned. Everything else works fine.

amyebayard -

Hello, and thanks for the great teardown! I'm just getting into my non-functional Barista unit, and wonder if I could "borrow" your expertise! I have cleaned EVERYTHING, all seals are good, and replaced the pump (probably in haste). I cannot get water to come out of the brew head. From your other posts, I see that it may be either a clogged valve (cleaned it already) or not enough pressure in the boiler. What else can I do to to get water from the portafilter, or build more pressure? Is it electronically regulated somehow? Thanks for any suggestions!

Matt

Matt -

Hi all - a few weeks ago, my machine started tripping the GFCI outlet. I plugged into another GFCI outlet and it was working fine until now. When the machine is turned on, the boiler heats to the steam temperature, even though the steam button is not selected. When I hit the brew coffee button (without the portafilter attached), I get a huge burst of steam. The pump eventually fills the boiler with new water and the steaming subsides. Any advice as to what I should test or replace? Was thinking either a bad steam switch or broken temperature sensor. Thanks!

bikdave -

Whilst this is a couple of years too late, my recent repair of my via venezia taught me a few things thanks to reading through the support in this section so I’d thought Is’d reply to keep a record. I experienced similar issues with a faulty thermostat which is very cheap and easy to replace. There is a thermostat for coffee brewing temp and a higher temp one for steam (as well as a cutoff/safety I think it is). Check out schematics online of where to find it but the L 95C controls the lower temp trigger. After unplugging the power, and unscrewing case of machine you can wiggle out the thermostat after simply unplugging the cables to it. You can validate you have the right one with the imprint on the side of the silver cap (L 95C) and order /replace as desired.

Ben Coleman -

Hey all Chase again. Thanks for the reply last time Henry H!

I used some parts from another machine to fix my current machine that was tripping the GFI and it worked for a couple of weeks but it is tripping the GFI again!!! Very frustrating. What exactly does it look like when you have a ruptured/compromised heating element? The current heating element seems intact and it does not look ruptured or otherwise damaged from the outside. There is continuity across the elements but once again there is a temporary beep in continuity between the boiler element and boiler body...can this be continuity due to moisture/the water inside the boiler? I would like to replace the boiler if this is most likely the culprit, what do you think?

wright602 -

My Estro model has very low pressure - wand give hot water at high speed but no steam. Heater light comes on and hot water is pumped at pressure barely able to make coffee drip out of portafilter. Is this symptomatic of a clogged boiler or a failing pump? Pump grinds away and will pump out tank quickly through wand. Clogged boiler?

Douglas Brian Martin -

My Estro is not feeling well. Pumps plenty of water at high pressure out of wand but no steam - just very hot water. VERY low pressure for the portafilter. When portafilter is off machine water pumps in a lazy manner, gets hot as it has for years. Are these symptoms of a clogged boiler? Lack of steam tells me perhaps boiler is jammed. Help. Thanks.

Douglas Brian Martin -

I just bought a Starbucks barista digital italia - it was used but I chose to try it. It had 96 brewed cups so it doesn't seem like it was used often. I am trying to get it working but always read fill water tank. I have tried everything but it just won't go away and there seems to be nothing on this issue. I have done all different levels of water and I just don't know what to do please help

secondsucks29 -

The Barista Italia Digital is a completely different machine then the one being discussed here, FYI. Your machine senses a full water tank via a floating magnet in a small chamber inside the tank; if the magnet is missing, oriented incorrectly (flat side should be up) or not floating, the machine will think the tank is empty. If the magnet appears fine but the machine still isn't sensing it, try removing the tank and holding a refrigerator magnet up to the same spot on the back of the machine and moving it around; if the machine "sees" this magnet and turns off the water tank message, then you'll need to replace the tank magnet as it's become too weak for the machine to sense. The Saeco part number is 145500859 and you'll need a fairly small hand to perform the operation.

Henry H -

I have a Barista that started leaking water from the top. I opened up the rear panel and it looks like the boiler is leaking. I'd like to fix it as I'm not wanting to buy a brand new machine, but I'm concerned about replacing the whole boiler as that is expensive (and maybe I should replace the machine rather than do a costly repair). Is it likely that I would need to replace the whole thing? It seems like it could be as simple as the O-ring. Any advice?

jendrago -

I was running a cleaning cycle with the recommended Ascor cleaner, but all of a sudden the pump stopped taking water. Any idea what may be causing that?

cubytus -

My steam wand isn't working. When I turn on the steam wand water doesn't come out of there it comes out of the portafilter in a stream and it doesn't stop. When I brew an expresso it doesn't sense when the portafilter is full and water keeps coming out unless I manually turn off the machine. I was wondering what could cause this and how to check to see if a part has failed. Thanks in advance

Danielle North -

Cannot get water out of steamer or brew head. Took pump apart, found a little nylon ball at the tip of the piston shaft. Is this ball supposed to movable??

alynbenezette -

Yes, it should be movable. Comments above, but the ball in there should be movable BUT the ball needs to be outside the spring.

Voltaire Wang -

My 13 years old Barista Athena is still working well, but hot water sputters or spits out of the wand when I press the button to start the brewing process, no matter how tightly I turn the steam wand knob, if I let go of it. If I even slightly twist the knob, or even just press it vertically up, while brewing takes place, everything works properly. Seems to me I must have turned the knob too hard at some point, or that just normal wear and tear has damaged threads or a washer. What parts do I need, and how do I do the repairs? hburshtyn@yahoo.com - September 2016

HB Rental -

My Barista is now getting very VERY hot on the top and sides. Any ideas why this might be happening and what I need to do to fix this (if that's even possible)?

Martha

Del Acct -

Great tutorial. Thank you. Would you happen to have links to where we can purchase spare parts for the machine?

alexnasralla -

The parts link is mentioned in some comments above, but the address was incorrect - this should do it. (https://www.espressocare.com/products/sa...).

-Mickey

mechelmis -

My Starbucks Barista is tripping the GFI switches and I suspect it may be the heating element has a voltage leak to the rest of the machine - how can I use the continuity test to determine whether or not there is a problem? What two end points should I measure?

I've measured the following:

A. between (1) the hex screw below the red cable L-bracket of the heating element to (2) the machine's chassis - and there's continuity, the meter reads 3.7 ohms

B. between the L-brackets on the heating element, (1) the red and the (2) grey cable connections , the meter reads 19-20ohms

C. between (1) the hex screw below the red wire L-bracket and (2) the hex screw below the grey cable 4.5 ohms

alexnasralla -

My Barista stopped heating so I assumed the coil had burned out. However, unless there is a direct short, it still shows continuity. Now I am wondering if the probem isn't the heat sensors. Are they known to fail? How do I troubleshoot for this problem?

Also, I should mention I always use reverse osmosis water as tap water here has a very high lime content.

Charles Treichel -

I have a Barista Athena that is very similar to the Barista. We don't use it very often, but we when heated it up to use it this week, water trickles out of the brew head as the machine is heating up. I'm a bit nervous about taking the machine apart, but I would like to know if anyone has experienced this issue and can tell me if that's what needs to be done! Any help is appreciated.

Erin Gregg -

my issue is that when I brew coffee the water comes out the steam wand. I have to push the steam knob in to brew the coffee. I am wondering if anyone else had had that issue and how they went about fixing it

bbinnes -

In step 8 it says to "Remove the 2 mm hex set screw from the steam valve knob..." Do what it says here except after removing the hex screw turn the steam dial one full revolution tighter (in the "off" or "no steam" direction) and then tighten the hex bolt back again. You can fully remove the hex set screw if you want to make sure everything lines up properly before screwing it back in. Try it out. If this does not work, remove the hex set screw and then unscrew (or turn towards "open") the steam knob until it comes out all the way. Clean the internals with some vinegar, rinse, and put back together. Hope this helps.

Elliot F -

Thank you for posting this! When I lost the ball in my pump the first time I was able to find it but the second time it bounced off my table onto the floor and directly into an alternate universe. I used the idea of another poster here to find a ball bearing but I had none! I then did some more scavenging and came across my roommate's girlfriend's nail polish collection. After coaxing out one of the steel balls from a bottle of nail polish with the help of a magnet, I cleaned it up with some acetone and voila! Another ball for the pump. A word from the fool: don't open your pump up unless you absolutely have to!!!

Elliot F -

I recently put a new repair kit in my Barista. I completely took everything apart except the portafilter. Oddly enough, after I put it all back together, and all the switches worked. But the portafilter would not tightly connect, very loose. I double checked to see if I installed the large black seal and it looked ok, I also checked to make sure the new seal was the same as the old one, it was. It kind of looks like the bottom part of the boiler isn't hanging down enough to make the seal connect with the portafilter. Any help would be greatly appreciated! Thanks, Chip H.

Chip Henderson -

Nevermind. I had the nuts for the brewhead holding the boiler together instead of attaching the brewhead to the boiler before attaching the nuts. Diagrams wern't too clear but the photographs cleared the problem up. Thanks.

Chip Henderson -

My Barista just quit - will not turn on at all. I didn't see any previous posts for this problem, I apologize if I missed a solution. I have opened up and tested the connections in a few places and it is getting power. From some research I suspect maybe an overheat failure of some sort. What should I test?

Dolan Classen -

Hot water pours our out of the steam wand when I push the coffee brew button, but no water will come out of the brewing area with or without the portafilter in place. Anyone know what the issue might be?

mkjr -

This is what would happen if the steam control was turned all the way on instead of off. Are you sure the knob is turned in the correct direction for no steam? Can you hear the pump working when you push the coffee brew button?

Mark -

Hey Andrew, is the boiler tube an integral part of the machine’s functionality? Saeco has discontinued the part (https://www.espressocare.com/products/it...) and mine is snapped right above the tube’s threading. I’m also thinking of somehow soldering the tube to the inside of the lower boiler plate. Any ideas?

Alex -

My Starbucks Barista is around 13 years old and still produces a nice shot of espresso with a frothy creme on top. However, it is taking longer to heat up to temperature lately. Is this a sign of a failing heating element? The machine is at work and sometimes people forget to turn it off. I don’t know if it has automatic shutoff to prevent overheating/fatiguing the heating element. I’ve looked at replacing but I have not found anything as simple or sturdy as this Saeco built machine.

Mary Kay Petersen -

Hello! I’m having trouble removing the brew screen (for cleaning) on my Starbucks Barista Machine. It appears to be stripped as I unscrew

it and it will not release. It appears as though the housing around the screw is also turning and will not release the screw. Also, when I tighten it it doesn’t seem to reach a stop point. Any help would be appreciated.

Ricardo -

Hi, I’ve been struggling with this for a month now with no result :( I have a white rio saeco vapore (not barista) in which water doesn’t come out of brewhead. I tried cleaning it fully (teardown clean assemble again), checking the spring in the brew head, everything.. but nothing.. I mention also that the pump doesn’t always pull water, even if its working. could it be that the pump is the responsible? if so, how can I repair it? cuz I can’t get a replacement here where I live. Or is there any other thing that oould help me fix this problem please :(

Zakaria ESSARSARI -

Hi, I have one of these machines with a pump that does not work as well. My pump is labeled “Made in Italy” by Cosmec and rated 110V 60HZ 75W, any assistance in finding a replacement would be most appreciated. Bob

Bob Balbirnie -

Where exactly does that little ball go. The spring seems to be cone shaped and I'm not certain if the ball should be at the small end of the spring or the cone end

dave archer -

This (especially the boiler group) looks a lot like the old Seaco Espresso machines frome the 90ies:

http://www.kaffeemaschinendoctor.at/saec...

Can you confirm that the boiler assembly is the same?

John Steed -

As per (Dolan Classen 7/10/2017) above my Starbucks Barista just went dead from one day to the next (no other indication of problems). Using a simple phase-tester, I have seen that the middle thermostat (?) (see part 21 from John Steed, February 6, post http://www.kaffeemaschinendoctor.at/saec...) has power entering from the On/Off switch, but not on the return-wire to the appliance power block (Live, Earth, Neutral). I’m assuming it might be worth trying a replacement.

As John Steed’s schematic is possibly for a different machine - I don’t know what thermostat to order. Does anyone know what part 21 would be for the Starbucks Barista? Also, if not, could I directly connect (jump-over) briefly to check the main functioning of the machine to ascertain that the thermostat is indeed the problem (worried this may cause damage)?

RC

R Cly -

@Dolan Classen (- 07/10/2017 ) - I fixed my machine without so much as a single part needed. If you’re middle thermostat also has no power running through it & it has a little button in the middle, you can just power-down your machine (plug-out etc.) and press that button. The button resets the thermostat and, at least in my case, everything worked.

R Cly -

I’ve had smoke come from my unit whilst brewing and a flickering brew light . Turned machine immediately off. After opening the machine i’ve found a blackened connector and melted plastic to one of the three pairs of terminals on to top of boiler. Would this be a heater malfunction?

BenC

Ben Coleman -

I found this to be a faulty L 95C thermostat (in which the burnt plastic shield of cable that caused the smoke was connected to). Fixed for less than $20! Just looked up part in schematics online, found a local seller and repaired in 5 mins.

Ben Coleman -

I have a Starbuck Barista and the steamer wand won’t shut off while brewing. I have to hold the knob as hard as I can while brewing to stem the flow out of the steamer spout. How do I fix this?

Steve -

Can anyone tell me what is the thread size of the 6 Philips screw that screw the back panel to the machine? I lost those screws and struggle to find a correct replacement for them. Thanks!

Newton Kwan -

Hi, I have a 4 years Via Venezia that pours excellent espresso shots. I’ve been having a problem with my pressure wand since a month or two. Although I descaled the boiler several times, it seems there is a lack of pressure in the steam wand. I’m able to heat the milk after 2 minutes, but I can’t get a nice steam flow and I’m not able to make the milk swirl anymore (so the milk just stands there and gets heated). It feels like the steam jet is just not strong enough. Again, strong descaling did not improve. I’m now at dissembling and trying to find the heat sensor. Could it be that the water does not turn all into steam completely? Thanks!

Derek B -

If you have strong flow from the wand when steam is not selected, then I would think the only other option is that the heat sensor is not working. It is not allowing the water to heat to steam. Try replacing the higher temp heat sensor.

Peter Schumacher -

We have had our machine for about ten years and it has served us well…a few days ago my wife tried to make espresso…nothing outbof the brew head..low pressure from steam head…pump?…if so from where do we get one since starbucks no longer supports.

William Milligan -

We bought a replacement pump on Amazon. Works great. I am still trying to find a brew head screen for this Espresso machine with not much luck.

debralynn620 -

https://coffeemachineparts.com.au/index....

Mark Radnor -

Hi - on turning machine on, when the green light goes on the machine still seems to keep heating and boiling. Is this die to a failed 95 deg thermostat? I can get one easily…. and how would I test that?

Mark Radnor -

I bought a starbucks barista for 30 bucks came with everything including manual they said it was fully working but totally my bad for believing them. I cant get any water to come out either of the heads (well, I got a little spurt out of the steam wand… that was it though). I tried using a syringe to shove water into the intake hose but it just stops squirts everywhere and doesnt go into the pump (and it leaked a bit probly because I forced too much in). The boiler puts off heat when I turn it on so that must be functioning at least? All the lights work and you can tell it's trying to work….maybe I screwed the heating element by turning it on without water in it….How can I fix it? Or is it better to just sell it for parts.

lexxi plexi -

Hi, Trying to use my machine after 5 years sitting and the water is not coming out to brew the coffee whoever the steamer works well…. I unscrewed the screen and that was not an issue … is their a valve that opens the coffee brew side ? I would very much appreciate any information .

b vafa -

EASY FIX: If you have the ‘no power’ overheat problem on the Starbucks barista, mine has an extra sensor directly over the water inlet to the boiler. Between the two metal tabs is a brown plastic ‘button’ that can be pushed down to reset the overheat. Your machine should now work. Next you need to descale it!

Edsr -

I am wondering if you might know what is causing my machine to emit water out of the steam wand as well as the main boiler housing when I twist on just the steam wand?

Tara Allman -

Hello I need to replace the o rings around the element connections, do I have to remove the boiler to do this or can I seperate the boiler in the machine? Thanks!

Trevor Russell -

I just installed a new pump. Why would it be pushing water through into the reservoir rather than drawing it? It’s not drawing any water from the tube that connects the right side of the pump to reservoir and it’s not drawing water however the other tube is pushing water into the reservoir. Something seems to be backwards?

Paula Toglia -

Hello, I have a troubleshooting question I cant find an answer to on the internet. Anytime I pull shots on my barista machine, the brew filter+tiny screw falls out. I’ve tried recrewing the filter back on multiple times, but the screw keeps falling out. I’m not sure if its the screw, or if its something inside. What is the screw attached to? Any help on the matter would be great.

Abigail Vroegindewey -

My machine is very noisy when I turn on the pump for brewing coffee. I am thinking that this is pump failure. Also, any way to check pump pressure and temperature on the unit? Thank you.

Andrew -

ask.us.for.parts@gmail.com

Gerry Wright -

What is the part number for the o ring thats between the Group Head and the Boiler? Its in step 10 the orange O ring on the top of the Group Head.

Mines leaking from around the outside of the Group Head, when portafilter is not in even.

Price Campbell -

any tricks in removing the boiler hose from the pump after losening the nut (step 4 - picture #1, the nut is loosened however the hose wont come out from the T connector)??

Jerry Huang -

My barista saeco won't turn own. Replaced the switch and check the power cord and that is good. Where do I go next. This was given to me and had not been used in a while. Help please.

Nora Neese -

I’ve read thru the many posts/issues hoping to find a similar issue and a fix. I’ve had my Barista for over 15 years and it worked great until recently. I use ese pods so I’m using the parts necessary to use the pods. Suddenly when I tried to pull a shot, water was falling all over the place presumably from the steam wand. It was hard to actually tell. I’ve cleaned it, de-calc’d it and it works great until I put a pod in it. Any ideas would be appreciated. I’m very attached to this machine!

salliess -