Xbox One Wireless Controller 1697 Teardown

Geschrieben von: Bito Zapata
Veröffentlicht: 27/08/15
  • Kommentare: 21

Xbox One Wireless Controller 1697 Teardown

Veröffentlicht: 27/08/15

Teardown

Einleitung

Microsoft has launched a new version of its official Xbox One Wireless Controller. It has a 3.5mm stereo headset jack, which will allow most third-party gaming headsets to directly connect to the controller for the first time.

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    • Covert Forces model - Bowie 'Changes' look.

    • New 3.5mm jack socket next to expansion port.

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    • Remove battery cover and battery

    • Remove side panels using spudger

    • Expose T9 security screw under label

    • Remove 5 x T9 security screws from chassis

    • Remove top and bottom covers

    the screws are T8, not T9

    Dennis Kim -

    T9 worked perfectly for me

    B R -

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    • Tape down the rumbler motors to prevent them from falling out.

    do you need to use any special tape or will normal tape work

    liam -

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    • Remove 2 x T6 security screws on bottom PCB

    • De-solder rumble pack and trigger wiring

    Are these T6 screws actually security screws? they don't look like it in the picture.

    George -

    I have an xbox one pad open in front of me, definitely security torx.

    Steven Davies -

    The T6 Torx was not security screws for the one I just took apart.

    Ryan -

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    • Thar she blows! DA7212

    • Dialog Semiconductor CODEC with Class G HP AMP and Class AB speaker driver.

    • CODEC sits next to contact pads for 3.5mm jack socket

Tinte & Feder

Bito Zapata

Mitglied seit: 27/08/15

158 Reputation

15 Kommentare

Is it possible to show the other board? Was thinking of doing a scuf-style mod to one of these... Thanks

blazeclarkebcc -

Was asking this because the boards are different to the older controller. I have PCB prints of the old one, but not the new one. Thanks.

blazeclarkebcc -

Can you point me where to get schematics that you have?

Piotr Zieliński -

Anybody know where I can get the new style bumpers for this style of controller? Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Rhys Jones -

The guy I buy from on ebay said they would be available at the end of January

themadmaxof07 -

I wonder if using this on-board solution should sound better than the external "puck" adapters.

I've opened the original Xbox Stereo Headset Adapter as well as the Turtle Beach Ear Force which both use a TI AIC3204 http://www.ti.com/product/TLV320AIC3204

I get a lot of noise/hiss when using these on both headsets.

Von Braun -

Is the socket designed to take a standard 3.5mm 3 pole stereo jack? Or does it require a 4 pole jack to function correctly?

Paul Joynson -

It uses the 4 pole jack.

penhai -

Where can I get the top triggers replaced this made this cheap top triggers are made one piece not like the older model so need to know where I can get a replacement my email wolveden71@yahoo.com

michaeldaniel71 -

Where could get a replacement for the 3.5mm jack? Seems the one I have currently is no longer working.

Malc Foy -

The D-Pad on my Master Chief wireless controller (Model 1697) will double actuate the up direction about 60% of up presses. The controller is out of warranty and I don't want to spend another $70 to buy a new one. Does anyone know if replacement bottom PCBs are available?

Paul Sirianni -

How can I desolder the solder on the analog sticks it seems like the new soldering is harder to melt and more in between. Than before

SAM CORTEZ -

Does anyone know which part to replace if the controller is bricked from a firmware update?

Jordan -

Does anyone know which part to replace if the controller is “bricked” from a firmware update?

Jordan -

After re-doing one of my controllers many times over, I took the rumble motors out, and she worked fine.

Then after another tear down..i took a risk and snipped off the remaning wires that lead to the trigger motors to make it easier to work on( before i realized you can just remove them as well)

Now.. i put her back together, and the power button would constantly click on.. i was thinking maybe the wires i cut ( which are now slightly poking out from the triggers were short circuting or touching something.

So i just removed the little motors in the triggers and same outcome….

Seems like the power button just wants to keep turning on and off…

Anyone, any ideas let me know thanks.

its_on_eric -