MacBook Air (13 Zoll, Retina Display, Ende 2018) Touch-ID-Sensor tauschen

Geschrieben von: Adam O'Camb
  • Kommentare: 30
MacBook Air (13 Zoll, Retina Display, Ende 2018) Touch-ID-Sensor tauschen

Schwierigkeitsgrad

Mittel

Schritte

13

Zeitaufwand

5 - 15 Minuten

Einleitung

Diese Anleitung zeigt, wie der Touch-ID-Sensor im MacBook Air von Ende 2018 getauscht werden kann.

Beachte, dass Touch-ID nach dem Austausch des Logic Boards nicht mehr funktionieren wird. Der originale Touch-ID-Sensor ist ab Werk mit dem T2-Chip auf dem Logic Board gekoppelt - ohne den proprietären Kalibrierungsprozess von Apple kann Touch-ID selbst mit einem originalen Logic Board aus einem anderen MacBook Air nicht arbeiten.

Wenn du die Touch-ID-Funktionalität erhalten willst, musst du zusammen mit dem Touch-ID-Sensor ein gekoppeltes Logic Board einbauen.

  1. 4a1VSQBgdQXAZah2

    • Bevor du anfängst, solltest du die Auto Boot Funktion stilllegen. Auto Boot schaltet deinen Mac beim Aufklappen ein und kann während des Öffnungsvorgangs versehentlich ausgelöst werden. Benutze diese Anleitung oder folgende verkürzten nachfolgenden Anweisungen um Autoboot auszuschalten.

    • Wenn dein MacBook unter BigSur v11.1 oder einer späteren Version läuft, lässt sich AutoBoot möglicherweise nicht deaktivieren. Arbeite zuerst normal weiter, trenne aber den Akku sofort ab, wenn du ins Innere des Gerätes hinein gekommen bist.

    • Schalte dein MacBook Air vollständig aus und ziehe den Stecker aus der Steckdose, bevor du anfängst. Schließe das Display und drehe den Laptop um.

    • Entferne mit einem P5-Pentalobe-Schraubenzieher folgende Schrauben:

    • Zwei 7,9 mm Schrauben

    • Zwei 7,1 mm Schrauben

    • Sechs 2,6 mm Schrauben

    If the first thing you do is disconnect the battery, is it really an issue if you don’t (or can’t) disable auto-boot?

    maccentric -

    I agree, why disable Auto-Boot when the lid is closed and the battery is disconnected immediately? – I've never had an issue since 2016 when the feature was introduced.

    stevebsiegel -

    On my machine, the longest two screws were in the corners, while the other two long screws were in the middle. Perhaps previous service in the past had them replaced into the wrong place? In any case, the longest screws do seem to fit in either place. I guess 0.8mm is not very much of a difference. Seems like poor design if they could have used one size of screw.

    johann beda -

    Just did one, and it also had longest screws in the corners.

    maccentric -

    Just did another, and the long ones were in the middle. Definitely poor design and quality control.

    maccentric -

    HIGHLY recommend reading the entire guide AND all the step comments before starting. For example: before the battery can be fully disconnected, the battery disconnect "gold button" on the logic board needs to be held down. Step 25 calls for a T5 Torx bit that is not included in the kit for example. Double-sided pull tab stretch tape will likely be needed to reinstall batteries and speakers.....

    Sam -

    I agree with the suggestion to read the entire instructions first before attempting the battery replacement. Here are a few other suggestions: 1) Have a magnifying glass or a pair of cheap magnification glasses on hand, 2) wear a head-light to see better, 3) several pairs of tweezers was helpful, 3) I searched the web for instructions to disable autoboot for my MacBook that is using Sonoma 14.7.5 - I followed those instructions and they didn't work so I would also suggest ignoring this procedure, 4) I found that a Torx #3 was too small for some of the screws even though it was suggested but a Torx #4 worked just fine.

    This was my first battery replacement and took 3 hours, not the 30 mins to one hour suggested so give yourself time. If you are lucky all will go smoothly. In my case, one of the stretch tapes under a speaker broke. You do NOT want this to happen. I was able to retrieve the broken piece after some time so prying up the speaker was not necessary.

    Alexander -

    A final comment - with the Canada Post strike on when I wanted to order parts, iFixit was not able to deliver my order in a timely manner. They graciously refunded my purchase. I then turned to Amazon - gag. I purchased a SeaPlant replacement battery kit which contained the battery, P5 T5 and T3 drivers, stretch tape, a spudger, and gloves all for $77.

    Alexander -

    Dear God $77 for a battery!,…that’s what I paid for my entire MacBook! I always bought my battery’s for my pro here and at most those were 30 bucks

    3arthShineDivine -

    Also I can’t get my keyboard to respond,…I’m going to buy a type c wired keyboard but has anyone had this issue? I can’t type on my password to login and the onscreen keyboard function is inconveniently not functioning properly. I am quite unsure if they even make plug and play keyboards with a type c instead of usb a given that I would not be able to pair Bluetooth in this state it on,…my trackpads working but not dbl clicking for those options nor a single keys responsive I think maaaaaybe I hit the power button and I think that started it up one time but I’m stumped

    3arthShineDivine -

  2. 4Kra6VLGEa3eGmd6

    • Zwänge deine Finger zwischen das Display und das Gehäuseunterteil und ziehe nach oben, so dass sich das Gehäuseunterteil vom Air ablöst.

    • Entferne das Gehäuseunterteil.

    • Nach dem Zusammenbau lässt sich das MacBook vielleicht erst dann einschalten, wenn es an ein Netzteil angeschlossen ist (ein leistungsschwaches Netzteil eines Smartphones genügt schon). Um die Reparatur zu überprüfen, schließe das Netzteil an, lasse dem MacBook zwei Minuten lang Zeit zum Starten und teste, ob alles gut funktioniert.

    Das geht etwas schwer, da das Unterteil mittig noch von 2 Druckverschlüssen gehalten wird.

    facebook -

    translated and true:
    This is a bit difficult because the lower part is still held in the middle by 2 pressure fasteners.

    Tom -

    Are there any suggestions to removing the pressure fasteners more easily?

    Drea Mastromatteo -

    I used a suction cup to lift up the cover. I mean those to lift up an iPhone display. Worked like charm.

    Juergen Stawska -

  3. xVJrmDjjKX3L1VEp

    • Ziehe den Aufkleber soweit vom Akkustecker zurück, dass der darunterliegende Stecker sichtbar wird.

    There was no tape covering the battery connector on my 2018 MacBook Air.

    Alexander -

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    • Schiebe den Akkustecker mit einem Spudger parallel zum Logic Board aus seinem Anschluss auf dem Logic Board heraus.

    Before the battery can be fully disconnected, the battery disconnect button needs to be held down. There is a gold button just above the battery socket, along with a small LED much like the 12” machines. Once this has been held down and the LED has switched off it is safe to remove the battery.

    Aaron Dalziel -

    This seems like an important step?

    maccentric -

    Also, seems like this should be done after the battery is disconnected, not before? Otherwise, wouldn’t the battery re-charge it?

    maccentric -

    What if the white LED dosent light up after pressing the yellow button again?

    Iron05 -

    I just performed this repair on my late 2018 mac air. I did click the gold button but saw no LED illuminated or otherwise. Question- after reassembly does the button get pressed again to connect the battery? Please clarify if this button is to be pressed and if it needs pressing again after the repair.

    All said - I pressed again after the battery connector clicked, assembled the back and all worked perfectly. The original issue was one dead port (no charge, no communication). The battery charge lightening bold icon was acting funny too. Genuis bar guy in Naperville said it was likely a logic board too. But it was not. The port was apparently confusing the logic board with regards to the charge function. Thanks Adam for saving me $440 and sending my computer back to Apple. I am 71 yrs young - who says an old dog can’t learn new tricks with good training!!

    William Lane -

    I didn't see Aaron's comment before completing the battery replacement. Afterwards, the computer would not turn on despite multiple SMC reset procedures. Upon double-checking the comments I see the importance of pressing the gold button. I pressed the gold button before disconnecting the new battery, then pressed it again after reconnecting for good measure. Computer booted!

    It would be good of iFixit to add this important step as most people probably don't open up every single comment on (seemingly) simple steps.

    Corey Matsumoto -

    Seconding Corey's comment. If paid more attention to the comment section, I would have avoided 15-30 minutes of panic. (BTW I did not notice any LED, but the golden button was easy to find).

    Lorenzo Sorbo -

    Where is the gold button? I replaced my battery and my laptop will not start

    Candace Williams -

    Where is the white LED you are referring to?

    Sam -

    Well... I have a 2018 MacBook Air and just replaced the battery. I did not see this comment about pressing a gold button. I took pictures during disassembly and it is only now that I see the gold button. Even thought I did not press the magic gold button all is working fine. I have had no issues with re-boot or battery charging since replacement. One suggestion though is when reconnecting the battery, make sure you feel a click when you re-insert the connector into the socket.

    Alexander -

    One note when reassembing, be sure to press down lightly on the plug with the spudger, so that it fully slides into the socket on the logic board.

    Thomas Ventimiglia -

  5. Zm4XSSu1KHHaeJEB
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    • Schiebe einen Spudger unter das Kabel zum rechten Lautsprecher und heble das Kabel zum Abtrennen nach oben.

    This seems unnecessary as you've covered disconnecting and removing the right speaker already. Some clarification would be nice.

    Wesley -

    Be very careful to pry up the cable and not the surface mounted connector. I've done this type of repair many, many times, and I accidentally popped the connector off the audio board.

    Doug -

  6. pYWrBx3kZIVVyd2V
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    • Entferne die drei 1,4 mm Torx T3 Schrauben, mit denen die Kabelhalterung der Audio-Platine befestigt ist.

    • Entferne die Kabelhalterung.

    For my repair I had to use a T3 here. T4 too big

    Macrepair SF -

  7. 2PIBvu6fHSTNvJbj
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    • Heble den Stecker am Kabel der Audio-Platine mit einem Spudger hoch und trenne ihn ab.

  8. en61kxAd1SdgFXDk
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    • Heble den Stecker am Kabel zum Touch-ID mit dem flachen Ende des Spudgers hoch und trenne ihn ab.

  9. ZXExtv1awoHaHbjB

    • Entferne folgende Schrauben:

    • Zwei 4,3 mm Torx T5 Schrauben

    • Eine 2,4 mm Torx T3 Schraube

    In my case, the audio board was mounted with two 4.3 mm T4 screws and one 2.4 mm T3 screw.

    benston -

  10. ghEClKaXGlPnTIUa

    • Schiebe das flache Ende des Spudgers unter das Kabel zum Touch-ID-Sensor und schneide den Kleber auf, mit dem das Kabel an der Audio-Platine befestigt ist.

  11. HfoawvGRUDPAmnxV

    • Entferne die Audio-Platine.

  12. bQQlf4SPNvUTUtDl
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    • Entferne die sechs 1,6 mm Torx T3 Schrauben, mit denen der Touch-ID-Sensor und seine Halterung befestigt sind.

    • Entferne die Halterung des Touch-ID-Sensors.

  13. ZRhyn2iLv3FyIfnR

    • Drehe das MacBook mit der rechten Seite nach oben und öffne das Display.

    • Hebe den Touch ID-Sensor aus seiner Aussparung und entferne ihn.

Abschluss

Vergleiche dein Ersatzteil mit dem Originalteil — möglicherweise musst du fehlende Bauteile übertragen oder Schutzfolien vom Neuteil abziehen, bevor du es einbauen kannst.

Um dein Gerät wieder zusammenbauen, folge den Schritten in umgekehrter Reihenfolge.

Entsorge deinen Elektromüll fachgerecht.

Hat die Reparatur doch nicht den richtigen Erfolg gebracht? Frage in unserem Antworten-Forum nach Hilfe.

Tinte & Feder

Adam O'Camb

Mitglied seit: 11/04/15

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