MacBook Unibody Model A1278 AirPort-Karte tauschen

Geschrieben von: Walter Galan
  • Kommentare: 54
MacBook Unibody Model A1278 AirPort-Karte tauschen

Schwierigkeitsgrad

Schwierig

Schritte

24

Zeitaufwand

2 Stunden

Einleitung

Diese Anleitung zeigt, wie die AirPort-Karte ausgetauscht wird.

  1. qPsGdXwUZZBT6RJa

    • Lege die Oberseite des Gehäuses mit geschlossener Klappe auf eine glatte Oberfläche.

    • Drücke den Verschlusshebel auf der geriffelten Seite der Klappe in das Gehäuse des MacBooks, bis du den Verschlusshebel auf der anderen Seite greifen kannst.

    • Öffne den Verschlusshebel so weit, dass er senkrecht steht.

    This is not a a1278 unibody MacBook Pro. A1278 MacBooks backs are one solid metal piece not two separate pieces. This guide is for a different MacBook Pro.

    Brad Burgeson -

    This guide isn’t for a pro; it’s a MacBook unibody.

    Nicholas -

    So, it turns out that Apple used the model code A1278 for quite a few different Mac models, including both Pro and non-Pro versions! This guide is for the non-Pro Macbooks. There’s also one for the Pro models with the same A1278 identifier.

    tempelmann -

  2. Pf4wGUpXWyJ3tAfH

    • Die Bodenklappe sollte nun ein kleines Stück offen stehen.

    • Die Klappe kann nun nach oben aus dem Gehäuse des MacBooks genommen werden.

  3. WkwQip2DfR1iJLMX

    • Versichere dich, dass sich die Entriegelung der Klappe in senkrechter Position befindet, bevor du weitermachst.

    • Ziehe an der weißen Plastiklasche und damit den Akku gerade nach oben und aus dem Laptop.

    Great tutorial ! great step !

    Leo Etcheverry -

    Even though it’s specifically stated, you have to make sure the access door latch is vertical or the battery won’t be removable.

    Henry Kim -

  4. mgYUuNTR1BjI1A6i

    • Entferne die im Bild gezeigten acht Schrauben, die die Bodenplatte mit dem Rest des Gehäuses verbinden:

    • Eine 3 mm Kreuzschlitzschraube.

    • Drei 13,5 mm Kreuzschlitzschrauben.

    • Vier 3,5 mm Kreuzschlitzschrauben.

    On my model, it seemed the top-left was 3.5mm and the bottom 4 were 3 mm.

    Jim -

    Make sure you have a good quality Phillips screwdriver. Mine had removable tips and had a small play at the connection. As a result I didn't have a good feel and damaged my screws (those securing the fan and the top left in step 23). Game over for me installing new thermal paste...

    Be very carefull with your screws! Especially those on the inside.

    Nickolas Michelinakis -

    You can get away with a Phillips #00 for many of the screws involved but the 4 at the bottom case split are likely to strip if you don’t use a JIS #00 or, in a pinch, a Phillips #000.

    Bill Cole -

    I used the Phillips #00 tip from my Pro Tech Toolkit, and it worked well enough. But yes, maybe #000 might have been better on the lower row of screws. Note to myself: Always read the comments first.

    Les Kitchen -

    When replacing these screws, the order to replace them in is as follows:

    1, Top left

    2. Top right

    3. Top center-left

    4. Top center-right

    5. Bottom center-right

    6. Bottom center-left

    7. Bottom right

    8. Bottom left

    I hope this information is helpful.

    facebook -

    I followed my usual process of putting in all the screws loosely, then tightening them gradually in distributed pattern, to help ensure that the panel settles in place evenly. But maybe some orders are better.

    Les Kitchen -

  5. EZrPgfOVIaaIsXLR

    • Hebe die Bodenplatte mit beiden Händen an und entferne sie vom oberen Gehäuse.

    Thanks for the guide!

    It's implicit in the two photos, but worth mentioning because it blocked my progress in this step for a bit: You have to put the release latch back into its horizontal, closed position before you can lift off the lower-case panel.

    Les Kitchen -

  6. UnfTVKa4kGgLhmpS

    • Ziehe den Stecker am Kamerakabel gerade aus seinem Anschluss heraus und trenne ihn ab.

    • Ziehe beim Ablösen des Steckers nicht am Kabel.

    Be EXTREMELY careful when removing and re-inserting the 'camera' cable. The contacts can be easily bent beyond repair if you try to force it back in. Damaging this cable at this connection or near the display may disable your ability to use your iSight camera, AND both your Bluetooth and WiFi. I had to pay apple $300 to replace the entire display assembly because one prong was faulty, causing my WiFi card to not be recognized.

    seanheff17 -

  7. xORcdpjYmZYWrNAc
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    • Hole das Kamera-Datenkabel aus seinem Kanal am optischen Laufwerk heraus.

    Although I ordered the screen for an A1278 MacBook Unibody Aluminum, the screen glass was marked as a MacBook Pro. The iSight/WiFi /BT cable was about an inch longer than the Macbook one and took a bit of creative re-routing, but everything works fine.

    tjod -

    has it got the airport and bluetooth modules built in separately in the display assembly as in the macbook late 2008 and mbp mid 2009?

    fericcio -

  8. 6FQppPtEshmRXyuq
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    • Entferne folgende Schrauben, mit denen das Kamera-Datenkabel und der rechte Lautsprecher am Gehäuseoberteil befestigt sind:

    • Eine 9,9 mm lange Kreuzschlitzschraube, nur teilweise mit Gewinde

    • Eine 9,6 mm lange Kreuzschlitzschraube mit vollständigem Gewinde

    • Eine 4 mm lange Kreuzschlitzschraube

    • Schiebe die Halterung des Kamerakabels unter dem Tieftöner heraus und entferne es vom Computer.

    • Im iSight-Kabel befindet sich eine Öse, durch die die Schraube ganz links in den Bildern geht.

    "orange" is the short one, that goes in the middle ;)

    Riesling -

    My model has different bracket, you need to remove the subwoofer first

    Andrea Ghensi -

    1. With my Laptop, the left screw was partially threaded, not the right one. 2. Before removing the camera cable bracket, I needed to unscrew the subwoofer.

    Edgar Fuß -

  9. dUR61OdDgcqO6ZhU
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    • Fasse die am Sicherungsbügel des Displaydatenkabels befestigte Zuglasche und klappe ihn zur Seite mit der Stromversorgung des Computers hin auf.

    • Ziehe den Stecker des Displaydatenkabels gerade aus seinem Anschluss heraus.

    • Ziehe den Stecker nur gerade vom Stecker weg, aber nicht nach oben.

    i can't understand what I need to do in this step, I'm afraid with this step, i think i can "hurt" my mac and i don't want to do that, anyone knows what i need to do?

    Thanks

    Lucas Borges -

    There is a steel 'latch' that flips over from the left side of the connector, to the right side. After you flip this latch over, the cable will easily slide out.

    madmaxmedia -

    as I pulled the monitor cable out of the bracket after flipping the lock over one side of the bracket broke loose. Now the monitor will not turn on. Can anyone help?

    boldtu -

  10. KX4fAOE6kkiQnPIE
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    • Entferne folgende zwei Schrauben von der Halterung des Displaydatenkabels:

    • Eine 7 mm lange Kreuzschlitzschraube

    • Eine 5 mm lange Kreuzschlitzschraube

    • Hebe die Halterung des Displaydatenkabels aus dem Gehäuseoberteil heraus.

    Note for Step 10 during reassembly: Be careful when replacing the screw for the display cable bracket closest to the magnetic power cord receptacle. The interior magnet might attract the screw causing the screw to get pulled under the DC power circuit board which might then require that you disassemble things again to retrieve the screw.

    wintermute -

  11. JZwrRypptntvcRW6

    • Entferne die beiden äußeren 6 mm langen Torx Schrauben, mit denen das Display an jeder Seite am Gehäuseoberteil befestigt ist (also insgesamt vier Schrauben).

    Hey guys, with these older models Do Not interchange different colored LVDS cables. Note the connector here is gold, do not use a silver connector on a gold one or vice versa. I fried a logic board this way on an A1278. Note that the core i7 lvds connector is different than the core i5.

    rjpoirier_nb -

    I never thought that I’d be required to use PB Blaster to remove computer screws. Had to use two tiny drops for each screw, letting it soak in for 20 minutes or so. The display screws, coated with blue thread lock, did not want to budge. I was so fearful that I would strip them using a T-6 driver. Ended up using a 1/4” drive ratchet with a T-6 bit, pressing down firmly and blocking the MacBook from turning with my elbows. I’ve had a lot of experience doing this kind of work, but wow!

    randy3833 -

  12. 3hMFv5xctPAx6bqU

    • Öffne das MacBook, so dass das MacBook rechtwinklig zum Gehäuseoberteil steht.

    • Stelle das geöffnete MacBook wie gezeigt auf die Arbeitsfläche.

    • Halte das Display und das Gehäuseoberteil mit der linken Hand zusammen und entferne die 6 mm lange Torx Schraube von der unteren Displayhalterung.

  13. UENnAHrYGcqTUVrT

    • Halte das Display und das Gehäuseoberteil weiterhin mit der linken Hand zusammen. Wenn du hier einen Fehler machst, kann das lose Display oder Gehäuseoberteil hinfallen, so dass Bauteile beschädigt werden können.

    • Entferne die letzte 6 mm Torx Schraube, mit der das Display am Gehäuseoberteil befestigt ist.

  14. X6xvVBK6giPdMK5I
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    • Greife das Gehäuseoberteil mit der rechten Hand und drehe es leicht zur Oberkante des Displays hin, so dass die obere Displayhalterung aus der Kante des Gehäuseoberteils herauskommt.

    • Drehe das das Display leicht vom Gehäuseoberteil weg.

    • Hebe das Display vom oberen Gehäuseteil weg, achte dabei darauf, dass sich keine Halterungen oder Kabel verfangen.

  15. wgRoBlTmHppiPiwQ
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    • Fasse die Verschlussabdeckung wie gezeigt an an und schiebe sie zur rechten Displayseite.

    • Sie sollte sich etwa 7 mm nach rechts bewegen lassen und dann stoppen. Zwinge sie nicht über diesen Punkt hinaus.

    i've found this impossible to get back on correctly.

    i cant get the plastic to slide back that 1/4" it needs to fit properly

    Does anyone know any tricks? :(

    Ashley Berthon -

    imagine the monitor upside down and the screen facing away from you. You have to put the cover over to the right of where it goes about an inch or 2 and it will go in, then, slide it left to lock it into place

    stdonato -

    I was replacing a clutch cover that had cracked into a few pieces. I found the replacement didn’t slide to the left on installation. On further investigation I found the tabs from the old one were broken off inside where the cover slides. Once they were removed the install wen much better.

    I found my replacement cover on Amazon.ca in case someone needs a Canadian source.

    Dean Landry -

  16. Vns5bAdNqAak5lWZ
    Vns5bAdNqAak5lWZ
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    • Rüttle die Verschlussabdeckung vorsichtig auf ihrer langen Achse vor und zurück und ziehe sie dabei vom Display weg.

    • Führe dieses auf ganzer Länge der Verschlussabdeckung durch, bis du sie aus dem Rahmen heben kannst, mit dem sie am Display befestigt ist.

    Is there a video of this rocking action. I've been trying for a while with no end in sight.

    Alex Santos -

    Edit: I eventually used a spudger, or a guitar pick might work. This helped pry the plastic off, and it finally came off.

    Alex Santos -

  17. iegYVqjNQuaLTiBw

    • Entferne die Verschlussabdeckung vom Display.

    The flat face goes on the bottom edge of the display. The display and wifi cables must be routed below the hinges in the display, that is, closer to the bottom edge of the display.

    Robert Rossi -

  18. NBXxDAcXUNRiYJ3K
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    • Heble die Stecker beider AirPort-Antennen mit der Spudgerspitze aus ihren Anschlüssen auf der AirPort-Karte heraus.

    • Passe auf, dass du die Anschlüsse nicht aus der AirPort-Karte herausbrichst.

  19. 5kZXCl5wuU36EvgZ

    • Entferne die einzelne 3 mm Kreuzschlitzschraube, mit der die AirPort Karte befestigt ist, gleich neben der AirPort Antenne.

  20. ZR4a1DOSQDyZUanb

    • Entferne die einzelne 3,3 mm Kreuzschlitzschraube, die den Kamerakabelhalter am Display befestigt.

    this is on the other side, watch the glass of the display below

    Carl Gennheimer -

    Thank you! I thought the photo was looking at the left hand side.

    Andrew Wainwright -

  21. gjYEaE3Gwd1FYfar
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    • Lege das Display wie gezeigt hin und ziehe den schwarzen Kamerakabelhalter zur rechten Seite des Displays hin.

    • Entferne den Kamerakabelhalter.

    In the second picture for this step the U notches on the wifi connector are facing out when in the socket, and this is quite misleading. Putting them in like this will not work and could potentially cause some serious damage to wifi card or motherboard. Be wary of this guide, and make sure you take pictures of how things are before you touch them.

    acurns1 -

    How do I find out the specifications for the Airport Card? There is none here…

    How do I know if the problem is on the card or the cable?

    Marco -

    Sorprende como reparar mac fácil y rápido

    PC Macintosh -

  22. BfsAQsriSukpXJ5D

    • Ziehe behutsam den Stecker am Kamerakabel zur rechten Seite des Displays hin aus seinem Anschluss auf der AirPort Karte heraus.

    • Achte beim Anschließen des AirPort Kabels darauf, dass die U-förmigen Einbuchtungen auf einer Seite des Kabelendes nicht sichtbar sind. (zur Karte hin gesehen). Wenn dieses Kabel falsch angeschlossen ist, wird das Logic Board beschädigt.

    I fried both of my Airport cards, couldn't figure out why, and came back here and read about these little U-shaped notches. I had to bring the computer into my office to compare both sides of this cable. I would be nice to make sure that this tid bit of information is very noticeable for those who are following along.

    wcking -

    Yea, I fried two motherboards before I came back here and re-read that the U notches must face the airport card.

    wcking -

    A super closeup photo of these notches would very helpful.

    Peter Mayo -

    If the note in this step can be updated to more accurately describe why the notches must be visible, that would be most helpful.

    Perhaps written as per “The camera cable (ie the AirPort cable) whilst it can fit in both ways, you WILL cause damage to either the card, the motherboard or both if the orientation is not correct.

    The cable MUST be installed so that the notches on one side of the cable are not visible”

    Charlie Nancarrow -

    Er, how sure is everyone about the directionality here? In the various images in this tutorial the connector appears with the U notches both facing and away. Perhaps the images reflect the learning process, but maybe the dot on the cable is key? One thing I can confirm is that it does matter - the cable connectivity is not symmetric.

    Robert Rossi -

    Well, I don't yet know what damage I did to my logic board, but the instructions here are correct, at least for the system I am working with: if installed the other way around (with the U notches facing away from the connector), the system will turn on but when you try to shut it off (power button, shutdown option in OS) it will immediately turn back on. Only a long-press on the power button will shut the system down such that it stays off.

    Robert Rossi -

  23. SP5e21JoE6xuTdWT

    • Entferne die letzte 3 mm Kreuzschlitzschraube, mit der die Seite der AirPort Karte ganz nahe am rechten Scharnier befestigt ist.

    This photo can be slightly misleading if you're not careful. It appears that unlike my cable, the pictured cable has the gray dot on both sides. In this photo you can see the 2 little sideways U notches that should be on the OTHER side. In photo 22 you can see that there are NO such notches as he is sliding the cable out of the connector.

    My gray dot is only on the underside (not visible when the cable is plugged in correctly. When I first took the cable out to replace my Airport board, I thought maybe it had been inserted the wrong way which will damage the motherboard. So the gray dots are not a good indicator, just look for the sideways U notches as indicated in the iFixit directions.

    madmaxmedia -

  24. t5VGJoTqnRwbwVAL
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    • Ziehe die AirPort Karte von ihrem Kühlkörper ab und entferne sie vom Display.

    • Achte vor der Montage einer neuen AirPort Karte darauf, dass das Wärmeleitmaterial auf ihrer Oberfläche in Ordnung ist und richtig mit dem kleinen Kühlkörper am Displayrahmen ausgerichtet ist.

Abschluss

Um dein Gerät wieder zusammenzubauen, folge den Schritten in umgekehrter Reihenfolge.

Tinte & Feder

Walter Galan

708450 Reputation

12 Kommentare

I went through this because after replacing the top case, upon restart the Airport card was not recognized. I was hoping the cable had come loose, as resetting PRAM and SMC didn't fix the issue (and searching the web, a LOT of people have this issue, most without having touched the internals of their Mac). That was not the case, everything appeared correct. So I got a USB wireless dongle and called it good.

maccentric -

I did it! \o/

The guide was really helpful. Be careful with all the delicate connections and DO NOT attempt to use not guide-specified tools. Yeah... You heard me, buy a decent Torx tool. :)

Gabriel Mattos -

Muchas gracias por el trabajo de la guía, sin ella no habría podido reparar mi ordenador

justo -

Very accurate guide. Much appreciated.

morjo21 -

Thank you very much for this guide. No real problem with the good tools! After restart, the wifi comes back! Yes!!! But just a little problem … the white becomes suddenly blue and impossible to change that. I open a second time to disconnect and connect the LCD wire. It seems to be ok but after mounting the screws, my blue problem comes back! Do somebody have an idea?

Duthion -

What is the form factor or bus of the card? Is it pci-e? Any idea?

Dietmar Heiser -

Took less than 2 hours total. Excellent tutorial. The antenna clip is easily removed without damaging it, no need to buy one of those.

italianracer -

Thanks for the guide. got the air port card replaced in about an hour. was much faster and easier then expected. Now my wireless network isworking again. thanks so much!

Sebastian Oye -

Thanks for this very precise guide ! Even if my bluetooth was still working fine, my wifi stopped seing any network, and afterwarming a bit more, just activating the wifi crashed the MacBook (Mojave).Afet, it even failed booting 50% of the time (no startup shame). BootCamp failed seing any wifi too (Win 10). So I ordered a used replacement card on aliexpress for 15$. It was worth it!

My old original Airport card was an CE European model 607-4145-A, and the replacement one is a 607-4144-A. I guess the new card is a world model since there is no CE marking on it and because I saw more chanel on first check under System repport/WiFi before activating airport - now it dropped to the same amount of channels, I guess after localizing my Mac. The new card is much faster than the old card too, my 5Ghz wifi is now connected around 230Mbits (speed test at 200Mbits) and the old card before dying was only working at 150Mbits (speed test at 120Mbits) - maybe it was already damaged since a while.

TheRV -

hola, gracias por tu tutorial, a ver si me puedes ayudar, tengo un macbook modelo A 1278, después que un técnico lo reviso quedo la pantalla con nubes blancas cerca de la base y se calienta mucho esa zona de la pantalla, que puedo hacer?

vecampos -

Managed to do this on a matter of 30 minutes. Good guide, very thorough, and got my WiFi working again on my Late 2008 Unibody MacBook. Kit I used was the IFixit essential electronics toolkit

avery shaposka -

Thank you very much for the guide, it is the best, it explains very well, I was able to replace the part without any inconvenience

hectormr -