Apple Thunderbolt Display Thunderbolt & MagSafe Cable Replacement

Written By: Tobias Isakeit
  • Comments: 114
Apple Thunderbolt Display Thunderbolt & MagSafe Cable Replacement

Difficulty

Moderate

Steps

19

Time Required

50 minutes - 2 hours

Introduction

This guide shows you how to replace the all-in-one Display and MagSafe cable of your Apple Thunderbolt Display.

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    • Lay down the display with screen side up.

    • Since the display is able to be tilted up and down, we found it useful to prop up the screen up with a styrofoam block in between the screen and the base.

    • Place the two suction cups on both sides of the top of the screen and make sure to lock them in place.

    • The glass screen is connected to the rest of the display by small magnets. Lift slowly and the screen will come right off.

    Instead of $14 foam block, I used a full roll of paper towel and two pillows. While it worked, if I ever did this again, I would buy the block of foam. Since you’re removing a power cable, you need to be able thread it through and I think the foam block would make that easier.

    Josh Miller -

    You can also use a single handle, double cup floor lifting suction cup. Just place it in the centre of the screen near the camera and lift slowly.

    Steve A -

    I just used a toilet plunger to remove the screen and it worked like a charm!

    Philip Jacob -

    That’s what I call resourceful—made my day. I hope your repair was successful.

    Tobias Isakeit -

    Great idea, thanks a lot!

    Yvan Sandoz -

    The glass lifted off the magnets quite easily after just using my fingernails. No suction cups or toilet accessories needed.

    Adrian Gropper -

    I had the same problem and after removal of the fan and a bit of work with the vacuum, the fan is quiet. Thanks to ifixit for the great instructions that made this easy.

    John Perser -

    To keep the screen up, other soft objects might work, but it's important that the hole in the back isn't covered because you will need to thread the new Thunderbolt/MagSafe cable through it and it would be a hassle to do it after everything's been set up.

    Thomas -

    Anybody got any links to glass screen replacement supplier for the A1407 Thunderbolt Display? Im finding it impossible to find a replacement without it being crazy money.

    Michael McMillan -

    Instead of a wedge, I used 4 rolls of toiletpaper, one under each corner.

    jnbruin -

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    • Unscrew the 12 screws around the side edges and the top of the LCD with the TR 10 Screwdriver.

    The screws marked in orange don't need to be removed, all they do is hold the magnets on the LCD.

    Garrett Mace -

    Yes “orange screws” does not need to be removed.

    You do not need a TR10 screwdriver as written in the text a T10 will suffice (more common and also correctly mentioned in the list of tools).

    A TR10 screwdriver is compatible with the T10, but not the other way around

    Per Lohmann Poulsen -

    On mine, the orange screws did hold the LCD down; the magnets were held in by TR6 screws, and those did not need to be removed.

    jml9904 -

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    • Slowly lift the LCD out from its placement and tilt it upwards.

    • It can be very helpful to have an extra set of hands to hold the LCD up while you work with the cables underneath.

    • There are four wires that connect the LCD to the rest of the components. Make sure not to pull hard and break any of the wires.

    Add the note that it should be lifted from the bottom edge. It is also important not to twist the display by levering up from one corner.

    Charlie Nancarrow -

    Before lifting the monitor, you should be prepared to start collecting screws and have your TR 10 ready.

    Josh Miller -

    Having a couple of short screwdrivers handy to prop up the LCD (like you would a car hood) while you disconnect the cables helps.

    jml9904 -

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    • For the first of the four wires (furthest away from the wire that is held in by a screw), grab onto the connector and pull slowly.

    Note: be sure to pull away but not hard. Wiggle and pull slowly. These are delicate especially due to age.

    Overall this is a moderate repair. Follow step by step and you are good.

    Also, use tape and/or labels to mark which cables go where per the MLB and other parts. Resulting in easier reassembly.

    Ted Teske -

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    • For the next connector, which is right next to the previous wire, there is a piece of tape attached to a metal bar.

    • Flip the metal bar over using the tape as a handle.

    • Next, grab onto the connector and slowly pull it from the socket in the logic board.

    What is this connector for?

    pdspanagel -

    I imagine this connector is going to be for display data (i.e. LCD data).

    Scott Havard -

    I pretty much mangled this cable trying to put it back into the slot. Is this something I can order a replacement for?

    Ryan Stryker -

    I also screwed up this wire.

    erybovic -

    I also screwed up this wire. Wondering what the wire name is.

    erybovic -

    Thunderbolt Display 27" LVDS Cable

    Klaus Finke -

    As other’s have said, this cable is super delicate.

    When you replace it, make sure that the small metal handle it firmly reattached to the other side of the port. I thought I’d got it right first time, but had no video signal (thunderbolt detected display, and power was fed to the Macbook Pro).

    I had to reinsert this one again, and one in, firmly press the connector home, then latch the handle over the other side. I also gave it a test pull to ensure it was secure. Then all was well!

    Steve A -

    Managed to remove it but broke one pin putting it back. I don’t understand why they make so fragile with all the space available…

    BAULARD -

    Can anyone provide a photo of this connector so as to give a better understanding of its mechanics? see this cringe worthy effort at guidance; https://youtu.be/A96CUSm_Xhs?t=1050

    Philip Sharp -

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    • For the connector on the other side of the logic board, grab the connector from underneath and carefully pull it from the board.

    To remove this connector, you squeeze the lower tab to unclasp it, and pull it sideways away from the board

    Brad Bell -

    This cable was also taped for me, so remove the tape first

    danmcfalls -

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    • For the last wire connecting to the LCD, use your T 10 Screwdriver to remove the screw.

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    • The LCD has now been fully disconnected from the casing and can be repaired/replaced!

    • its best to set the LCD on a bed or on a thick towel to avoid damage to the LCD

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    • You should now see the EMI filter right in the middle of the device (although held in by a few other components).

    • Follow the wires coming out of the bottom of the Power adapter off to the left.

    • Take the tweezers and remove the piece of tape holding the wires to the casing.

    • There is only one connector that needs to be taken out (even though there are two right next to each other!).

    • Grab the connector from the bottom and pull it carefully from its corresponding socket.

    Note: The Brown/Black pair highlighted in the picture is for the AC connector. For the MagSafe power, you want to disconnect the double-black wire connection. Another way to distinguish if colors differ is that the MagSafe connection has a much larger connector on it.

    Isaac -

    Confirming what Isaac said. The black/brown pair don’t need to be unplugged. It’s the other connector that needs to be removed to replace this cable.

    R Miller -

    Yes - pictures and last bullet point are misleading and confusing respectively. I suggest fixit should remove the second picture and replace it with a picture of the connector that should be removed and amend the last bullet point o read something like 'depress the clip that holds the left connector in place and carefully etc ...'

    Avoid the verb 'grab'

    Philip Sharp -

    The plastic tape was completely dried out and had slight burs from overheating. Replaced with regular masking tape.

    Thomas -

    Confirming that pictures and last bullet point are misleading. The double-black wire connection is the larger connector and is black green. Much easier to tell apart and much easier to unplug.

    Thomas -

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    • Next, remove the piece of electrical tape that is holding wires into the casing connecting to the power adapter.

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    • The surrounding speaker component (the black box) around the power inlet needs to be removed.

    • Use the TR 10 screwdriver to remove the four screws.

    • Disconnect the speaker from behind the logic board by carefully pulling at the plastic end of the cable.

    • Remove the speaker.

    If you are only replacing the Thunderbolt and MagSafe cable, steps 11-13 do not need to be performed ie speaker and EMI filter do not need to be removed, only the screw holding the grounding cable on the EMI filter (top left of round disk).

    martin baynes -

    I concurr with M Baynes.

    Macrepair SF -

    I just successfully removed and replaced the Magsafe/TB cable. I can confirm that Martin Baynes and lamajr are correct.

    Kevin -

    Can confirm martin baynes' comment, steps 11-13 are unnecessary.

    Thomas -

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    • Now that the middle speaker is out of the way, the EMI filter is easily accessible.

    • Using tweezers, remove the silver tape that is at the top of the filter.

    I can’t help but notice that this assembly that is called an EMI (Electromagnetic Interference) Filter is in the exact position that my monitor has been displaying a band of disrupted color bands once it heats up. I am changing the Thunderbolt cable assembly in hopes that is fixes the problem. If it doesn’t then I will make changing the Filter my next quest. It is also noteworthy that the Filter is grounded to the case by the metal tape which must be peeled back for this procedure. Hmmm.

    whiteshephard -

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    • The EMI filter is connected by three screws. Use the T10 screwdriver to remove them.

    • The screw that holds in both the filter and a wire that is connected to it is a different size and should be kept identifiable from the other two screws.

    • The green and yellow wire that was held in by the different screw is tucked behind another component. To get it out, squeeze it behind the black wire and the filter will be able to be removed from the casing.

    Nothing about the power cable itself here. That has to be unplugged first, or when you get to this point, you’ll have to carefully unplug the main power cable from the back of the AC adapter you just removed in Step 13, and feed it through the hole in the back of the case.

    EARL W REYNOLDS JR -

    I was unable to “squeeze” the green/yellow wire behind the black wire because it is adhered to the back case. In order to replace this cable, you’ll need to pry the black cable off the back of the case. Now is a good time to do that so you *can* get the green/yellow wire out.

    R Miller -

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    • Remove the two T10 screws from the metal plate holding the cable in place.

    • Remove the metal plate.

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    • Carefully remove three cable connectors from the logic board by walking them out while holding them at the plastic end.

    • From top to bottom these are:

    • Fan control cable

    • Temperature sensor cable

    • Fan power cable

    • In some cases there are only the top and bottom cables.

    I dont see any Temp sensor cable, just the top and bottom ones

    asebastianjo -

    Same Here. Could that be why it’s been cutting out all the time?

    Alan McClenaghan -

    I opened up my TB Display because it kept cutting out. I intended to replace the MagSafe/TB cable (as suggested on several threads) but now I see there is no Temperature Sensor Cable (middle) and the Fan Control Cable (Top) just leads to an end that is tapped next to the fan. Could this be an issue in the display intermittently going black and the desktop switching back to the MacBook?

    Alan McClenaghan -

    According to the Fan Replacement page there are only 2 cables.

    Alan McClenaghan -

    No need to undo these cables. Proceed to next step and just flip on edge the logic board to get to the tb cable.

    Jerod Moore -

    I also did not have a temp sensor cable. Nothing to be found.

    Aaron Dimatulac -

    As Jerod Moore noted, steps 15 and 17 are optional, provided you are gentle with the logic board cables and only stand on edge, not flip over, for step 18

    martin baynes -

    I just finished the removal and replacement of the Magsafe/TB cable. I can confirm what Jerod Moore and Martin Baynes stated. No need to undo these cables and steps 15 and 17 are indeed optional as long as you are gentle with the logic board cables and only stand the logic board on edge.

    Kevin -

    Had just two cables, instructions still worked. However, these cables don't necessarily have to be removed if you're extra careful (see other comments)

    Thomas -

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    • Remove the seven Torx T10 screws from the logic board.

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    • Now you are able to reach behind the logic board to disconnect the cable running to the power board.

    • The connector has a small tab on the back that needs to be pressed for the connector to be pulled out.

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    • Carefully flip the logic board to the left using the remaining cables as a hinge to get access to the display port.

    • Remove the two Torx T6 screws from the metal plate securing the display port connector.

    • Remove the metal plate.

    i removed both the top and bottom metal plates in order to fit a 3rd party thunderbolt cable

    asebastianjo -

    Thunderbolt cable needs a gentle, but firm pull. For reattaching: it goes outside the logic board under all the other cables.

    Thomas -

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    • Unplug the Thunderbolt cable from the logic board.

    • Thread the remaining Thunderbolt & MagSafe cable through the cutout in the rear case.

    Nothing here about the two pieces of black fabric tape you have to undo to release the Thunderbolt and Magsafe cables; also see Isaac’s comment on Step 9 about having to unplug the Magsafe adapter. You can wait until this step to do that, but it still has to be done to remove the Magsafe cable.

    Also, you have to pull the cable up through, you can’t feed it down through the hole.

    EARL W REYNOLDS JR -

    There are two blocks , visible in the photo above under the thumb and by the index finder, each were holding a black cable (power or Thunderbolt). These are VHB tapped to the metal chassis. Gently push on the block and they will detach. Remove fragments of VHB tase with tweezers. The new cable blocks already has VHB tape, you only need to remove the protective tape and hold firmly in place for a few seconds, for each block.

    martin baynes -

    Do you know what these black blocks are for? What ist their function/role on the cable assembly?

    Kevin Buchert -

    Can confirm martin baynes' comment. The two plastic blocks (visible in the second photo above under the thumb and by the index finger) need to be attached to the metal chassis/case with the VHB under the blocks. Otherwise, the cables would be too loose. To do this, the black plastic rings on the gray cable connector (visible just above the thumb knuckle) need to be pushed down first. Then the black plastic blocks are held in place. Then they're ready for the metal plate to be screwed back on.

    Thomas -

Conclusion

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

Author

Tobias Isakeit

Member since: 31/03/14

107649 Reputation

59 comments

Unbelievable amount of very detailed and careful work to replace a Thunderbolt cable which is attached on the inside to a standard Thunderbolt socket! Why not just have the socket on the back of the unit?????

Lewis Naylor -

You can actually use the socket on the back of the unit as an input if your octopus cable is dying, as long as you are connecting directly to a Thunderbolt 1 or 2 Mac. If you are using the Thunderbolt-3-to-Thunderbolt-2 adapter, you have to use the built-in cable.

Tim -

In reply to Tim - This is not true - I am running a 2018 Mac Mini using the Thunderbolt 3 to Thunderbolt 2 adaptor and a standard Thunderbolt 2 cable connected to the external thunderbolt connector on the Thunderbolt Display - It works fine.

Giles Norton -

Nice one Tim! Saves me opening the screen! Thanks!

Marc Dubresson -

Me too! I was just about to start dismantling my display when I noticed this tip - I’d even bought some suction cups. Thanks Tim!

Nigel Street -

Oh, my, yes! What a useful comment. It makes sense that this would work but I would not have thought of it. @timgostony Thank you very much indeed!!!!!

David Kim -

At the top of this guide for the Apple Thunderbolt Display Thunderbolt & MagSafe Cable Replacement, it says that there are “No Parts Required” I beg to differ. I need this guide because I need to Replace my Apple Thunderbolt Display Thunderbolt & MagSafe Cable because the connector at the computer end is sketchy and if touched causes the image to glitch and go out. I know its the cable because this issue is not present with any other display or projector I plug into the same port on my computer. So, I ask, do you have a reliable source for an Apple Thunderbolt Display Thunderbolt & MagSafe Replacement Cable so I can use this guide and fix my monitor once and for all?

Stephen LeMay -

Answered my own question. http://a.co/d/bOlf4s0

Stephen LeMay -

Hi Stephen, You’re right, the wording is somewhat confusing. Of course you need a replacement part to replace something ;) This has been forwarded and we’ll hopefully change it soon to provide proper information. Thanks for the parts link; i’ll put this into the “parts” section for the time being.

Tobias Isakeit -

Hello, I desperately need help! I have followed the step by step instructions here & everything went perfectly! But now it won't turn on at all??? I have checked that I have plugged in every cable but still no response? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.

Nicholas hilton -

Nicholas, any luck with fixing your display? Same problem here. Replaced the all-in-one cable without incident. Reassembled, and now it won’t power on using different:

• macs

• plugged and unplugged

• from on already and starting up

• outlets

• power cords

Help.

About to start the process over, suspecting to find a disconnected cable.

Good luck, and thanks for any input.

 Chris Leeds

Independent Apple Specialist

Well Connected Life

Chris Leeds -

Also experience some hickups with different cables. No picture but charging, not charging but picture, slow recognition of display (~8 sec). There are different cables for the different display (size and year). Some cables may also be used and malfunctioning. Maybe connect to the seller and request a replacement to check.

Tobias Isakeit -

Hi Chris, I never had any luck with my repair. I came back to this forum hoping someone had replied with a solution, did you happen to get yours working at all? I have also tried all of what you stated with no success. Mine was working fine originally but the connection on the thunderbolt cable was intermittent so I decided to replace it but was unsuccessful despite everything being done perfectly. I also switched back to the original cable but still no response at all. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.

Nicholas hilton -

I use 2 thunderbolt displays with Mac Mini, daisy chaining the second one from the first display. I have been using these displays since 2011 and last month in a gap of 15 days both the cables started exhibiting unreliable connectivity. I ordered a pair of new cables and eventually after a month of waiting, I finally got them yesterday.

Opened display #1 using this guide (which is a life saver) and that roughly took me over an hour to tear it down. I additionally opened out each of the 3 speakers and brushed off the 8 years of dust accumulated on them. Blow cleaned the fan which had tons of dust caught inside.

This guide is quite well drafted with each step very illustratively put together. Not just my display is back in action, but also the audio volume of the display has doubled up :) I also cleaned off the soot developed behind the front glass and now its like a entire refreshed display.

Kudos to the author for this article!

Will work on the display #2 sometime soon.

Akash Khairate -

Great guide, thanks for thorough step by step teardown. I replaced both the cable assembly and the glass. I didn’t have the nice foam block to prop up the display from the work surface and provide space between the stand and the housing, but found that a rolled up hand towel worked well. If you’re doing the job yourself, find something to hold open the panel while you disconnect cables. There’s plenty of safe areas to do this without crushing or damaging internals. Similar to a automobile hood. Propping it open close to center provides the best balance. I used a large plastic bottle, it’s what I had available?!? You’re gonna need both hands for the job. And, though suction cups would have been nice, the magnets are weak enough that, working from the bottom, I found the glass separates easily without stressing the glass.

anonymous 8275 -

Garmin or other GPS suction mounts work great for lifting the face.

Thanks for the information. Mine died today and I have the cable so I get to have some mechanical fun.

rashby2 -

Hi Tim, can you give me a few more details on this?

“You can actually use the socket on the back of the unit as an input if your octopus cable is dying, as long as you are connecting directly to a Thunderbolt 1 or 2 Mac. If you are using the Thunderbolt-3-to-Thunderbolt-2 adapter, you have to use the built-in cable.”

How and in which cases can I replace the cable without opening the screen?

v_roy -

What more do you need to know @v_roy? Just buy a Thunderbolt to Thunderbolt cable (Apple sell them in 0.5m or 2.0m lengths). Then plug one into the rear of the display (there’s just one TB socket). Then plug the other end into your Mac, and voila! No need to dismantle the display at all.

Nigel Street -

Hi Tim, are you sure about using “Thunderbolt-3-to-Thunderbolt-2 adapter” with an external thunderbolt cable?

andremacola -

Hi andremacola! I was thinking the same and wondering if you had made any progress with this? I don’t understand why it would be different to use a “Thunderbolt-3-to-Thunderbolt-2 adapter”? I’m hoping I can use an external thunderbolt cable to connect to my adapter and MacMini. My display keeps blacking out randomly and it’s driving me crazy! And I can no way afford that new Apple display!

Paul Thomas -

Thanks for steps, detailed and made me realize this is a job for an experienced tech or someone who has some hands on knowledge. I may try a few of the steps and see where it leads me. Where would someone buy the parts for this project.

louis -

Any recommended brand for the replacement cable?

And tips on checking if it’s the cable or the port on my 2013 Macbook Air?

James Bowkett -

I’m currently using my 27inch Apple Thunderbolt Display with a 2014 MBP which is obviously how it was meant to be. I expect to upgrade my laptop to a new model in the next year and dreading having to deal with tons of dongles. Has anyone provided, looked at possibly modifying this model so that it has a USB-C connector?

Carlos Pacheco -

Hi, thx fot the manual!

The resolution of the display is no longer scalable. only a 1200* resolution is possible. With the new and old cable this is now. Everything is plugged in like in the manual.

Marvin Bätzel -

I have been having problems after plugging in a cheap LED light to one of the USB ports in the back of my Thunderbolt Display. I just tried connecting the thunderbolt port to a thunderbolt 2 to 3 converter and then my 2019 MacBook Pro. The Thunderbolt Display screen came on fine but the brightness controls and built in camera were unavailable. Therefore I need to do this work or get a new display or find a tech to do it because I want to keep using the camera and brightness adjustments.

David Fligor -

Overall, these instructions were great! I appreciated the comments, as I did have to disconnect the OTHER connector rather than the one highlighted in step 9. I would have never done this job on my own, but these instructions made it quite do-able. thank you!

Harry Dennis -

Hi ifixit.com,

I just fixed my Apple Thunderbolt Display Monitor, today! Thank you so much for the steps to changing my thunderbolt cable! I also purchased the tool kit from your website.

Thank you so much!

MoNique H.

Monique Holland -

Replaced the cable meticulously thanks to these great instructions. Still no power to mag safe, no power to USB and other ports. Connecting directly via Thunderbolt did not work. Tried multiple Mac computers. AC power cable does have power. What troubleshooting steps are next? Should I replace the power supply board? The logic board? I have a lot of good years in this investment, would like to get a few more. Thank you.

Marty Bird -

I think my display needs this fix at some stage, does anyone know why this cable does need replacing?

I am currently using it with the external port and Thunderbolt 3 to 2 adapter on my iMac 5K 2017, but its the only way I can reliably use it.

If the built-in cable is used, the display is not stable and stops being connected to my iMac.

grantdavis -

Excellent guide! I didn’t need the suction cups. Pull w/ fingers.

Long story short, I have 2 Thunderbolt Displays. TD1 flickers after 10-15 minutes then gives out. TD2 around 20-30 minutes will black out but kick back on right away, and I lose sound output to it, and for sound output to show back up in the settings, I have to disconnect then reconnect.

Tried daisy-chaining MacBook Pro<—TD2<—TD1 and works, but then flickering symptoms again.

Tried daisy-chaining MacBook Pro<—TD1<—TD2 and found out that TD1’s TB port on the back doesn’t work.

I bought one new TB/MagSafe cable from Amazon, used this guide, and finished the job on TD1 in an hour. Again, excellent guide. BUT, I’m still having flickering problems on TD1 when running itself or by daisy-chaining MacBook Pro<—TD2<—TD1

BUT! MacBook Pro<—TD1<—TD2, TD1’s TB port on the back works now, and haven’t seen any flickers about an hour in on TD1. However, TD2 gave up once, but kicked back faster than before.

Will order another replacement and do the same job on TD2.

Aaron Dimatulac -

Great procedural manual… the whole cable replacement took under an hour.

jml9904 -

As others have mentioned, I was able to bypass the original fixed thunderbolt cable, though bypassing it with an official Apple Branded TB2 cable from the socket in the back of the screen to a MacMini. It worked fine.

Edward Scotcher -

Awesome job Tobias, very helpful

martin baynes -

After completing the repair, you may need to reset your NVRAM/PRAM and SMC - recommended debugging for a Thunderbolt display, see https://www.macrumors.com/how-to/reset-t...

It is a wild guess that a damaged Thunderbolt cable may cause corruption of these critical settings.

martin baynes -

This guide has saved my screen! Than you so much for providing such detailed information. after I still had to reset the nvram but that was quite straightforward. Now my display works again as before. Thanks!

Tobias -

2nd time fixing the TBD. Power Supply, now the TB2 & Mag-Safe cable, nine years old and it is not in the landfill. Maybe nine more. Thanks

Jon Martinez -

Display works but the laptop is not charging. Anyone with the same problem?

Hannah Körber -

Had a similar case with an internal test repair. Turned out the cable was defective—returned it and the replacement part worked just fine.

Tobias Isakeit -

Do you think it is possible to integrate the Thunderbolt Display’s Mag-safe power cable and the Thunderbolt 2 connector into one thunderbolt 3 connector? (Like soldering couple of wires that Apple’s TB2 to TB3 adapter is lack of?)

So I can use my Thunderbolt Display with my newer Type-C ported Macbooks with just one single cable just like LG’s Ultrafine Monitor. (External Display & Charging my mac laptop at the same time?)

I know it would require 2 adapters at this moment(Apple’s Thunderbolt 2 to Thunderbolt 3 Type-C Adapter && $20 Magsafe to USB Type-C Converter) However, my $20 magsafe converter got burnt and melted after a few months of usage so, NO. I won’t use that again. (And also I hated the fact that the two fat adapters hanging & dangling around.)

Or is it a bad idea modifying it like that? (catch fire or something? I am still curious why my converter got melted and no longer functioning..)

Zonny -

I bet you COULD do some dodgy hacks like that, but … my recommendation would be to get a Thunderbolt dock like the Brydge Stone Pro and then hooking THAT up to the thunderbolt cable and adapter. It’s not cheap AT ALL, but with the dock I have ONE cable like that to plug in and get power and data all at once. The MagSafe part just kinda dangles off uselessly in that case, so it’s not the most aesthetically pleasing thing in the world, but the end result’s functionality is pretty darn sweet.

(And yeah, those MagSafe-to-USB-C adapters looked nice, and I used mine for all of a week before I asked “is there ANY more elegant way?”)

Bibulb -

Wow… this is my second experience upgrading or fixing apple products. My cable’s shielding had frayed and the display finally stopped working, so I bought an aftermarket replacement and found this vid. I spent the $35 to buy the tools: suction cups, torx kit, and foam wedge, and I have to say that this tutorial was really on point. No issues replacing it and it works great now. Thanks!!!

Mike Fleener -

Hi - I need help. I followed these instructions. It was very easy. But now that my Thunderbolt Display is back together, the screen flickers and moves windows around like crazy and turns black randomly. However, the camera, USB ports, and sound work as expected. Any idea what could cause this? I know I didn’t damage the logic board as when I plug in a separate Thunderbolt cable to the back the screen is fine (but I don’t get sound, camera, or USB). Any advise before I take this all part again? Thanks, Lindsay

Lindsay -

After a lot of frustrating trial and error, it's definitely the replacement cable!

Lindsay -

I don’t know if this will help anyone, but cleaning the glass and led screen was impossible after this replacement. I tried everything (microfiber, cotton cloths, water only [glass only], vinegar & water solution [glass only], electronic wipes [glass only], compressed air, etc.), but the glass kept getting worse and the led screen had lot of dust on it. In my frustration I used a long piece of cheap scotch tape the length of the monitor (the kind that’s not completely clear) to clean both sides of the glass, which removed any accidental finger prints, streaks from my unsuccessful cleaning attempts, and dust particles. After both sides were clean again, I used the same process on the led screen, but much more carefully with a smaller piece of tape. It removed all marks and dust on the led screen as well, I was so happy. I went through a lot of tape, but I’m finally happy with the screen. I just hope this second cord actually works as a permanent solution so I don’t need to take it apart again.

Lindsay -

Thank you so much for publishing this guide. Many of the photos, and tips on how to remove each cable were invaluable. My monitor is working like new now. I really appreciate your work!

Marek Suchanski -

It really is a detailed explanation. I have a question. Can I use the use the socket on the back of the unit as an input to connect a new 2020 13 inch M1 MacBook Pro. Using this cable https://www.apple.com/shop/product/HN8B2...?

Jose -

Not with that cable specifically - it’s USB-C to Mini-Displayport, which won’t work to drive a Thunderbolt display. That said, you could use these two (https://www.apple.com/shop/product/MMEL2... AND https://www.apple.com/shop/product/MD862...) in conjunction to connect that Thunderbolt Display to the MBP.(It’s not gonna handle power for the computer, obviously, but that’ll drive the display.)

Bibulb -

My display is starting to show signs of an issue with the cable so I’m going to potentially do this. However, my question is this.

My current MacBook only has USB-C plugs on it which means dongles…lots of them. Has anyone made a replacement Thunderbolt display cable that is natively USB-C as opposed to the original MagSafe/Thunderbolt?

Carlos Pacheco -

@carlospacheco Did you end up doing that? My cables are wearing out also and was thinking of doing the same thing if the cable exists.

Thanks

Jeff

Jeff Clegg -

Weird timing Jeff, I finally tried replacing the cable with a new one this past weekend (standard thunderbolt cable) but unfortunately, it didn’t take. Still had the same issues if not worse… Just last night I gave up and sold it for parts.

Carlos Pacheco -

Thanks everyone. Could anyone confirm whether using the display’s peripheral thunderbolt port & cable & 3-2 thunderbolt adapter really works with a newer 2019 macbook pro?

samuli reijula -

I can’t confirm with a 2019 MBP, but I can say definitely that <port on the back> → <TB1 cable> → <TB1 to TB3 adapter> → <TB3 port on 2017 MBP > OR <TB4 port on 2021 MBP> both work. So while I don’t have DEFINITE proof that it’ll work with a 2019 MBP, I can’t imagine any reason why that one specific model year wouldn’t work.

(The one caveat is that I’m using another company’s TB1 to TB3 adapter - but given what everyone else has said, I again can’t picture that using actual Apple parts in that daisy chain instead of my off-brand stuff would work WORSE than my success.)

Bibulb -

My A1407 stopped working for my laptop (macbook pro 2014 and mini mac). I reset the SMC on the laptop and it was working for a minute or less then black again. I did the instructions above to see if I could see any issue with the cable but all looks good. Is the cable the likely issue?

Joe Roach -

Any way to replace this cable with a USB-C version that plugs straight into a new MacBook Air (M1)?

amn -

That would be rad. If anyone succeeds, please let the community know :D

Tobias Isakeit -

Did this entire procedure, replacing the cable ganglion AND the power supply, but there is no change to my completely black Thunderbolt monitor. Only thing left to replace now would be the logic board, I suppose, but then it's also a case of declining returns. Reckon I'll just buy a cheap monitor instead.

maxplanar -

Almost perfect instructions, although my new Cable does not connect up the Thunderbolt to my Mac. ( the Thunderbolt adaptor on the exterior does - just using a thunderbolt to thunderbolt cable ).
The Magsafe works though.
So eBay code word 'untested' does mean 'faulty' ( unless it's the monitor's fault )

Thanks

gingerman.facebook -

Can confirm that a $30 Thunderbolt to Thunderbolt cable attached to the Thunderbolt port on the back of the monitor works perfectly as a replacement for a failing built-in Thunderbolt cable. Wonder how many people scrapped their display over the bad cable :(

Kip Gebhardt -

Please help! After replacing the thunderbolt / Magsafe cable I am having a problem with USB hub/ thunderbolt. When I use the new cable - the screen is working, but USB ports are not. If I connect using a separate thunderbolt cable - USB ports on the display are working. But the main thunderbolt cable is not working then - my issue is that I need to run my thunderbolt audio interface along the display.

Connecting to MacBook Air 2015.

Many thanks!

echizhikov -