MacBook Air 13" Mid 2013 Logic Board Assembly Replacement

Step 1

Grab the plastic pull tab secured to the display data cable lock and rotate it towards the top side of the computer.

Step 2

Pull the display data cable connector straight away from its socket.
Make sure to pull the connector parallel to the logic board, do not lift straight up from its socket.

Step 3

Use the flat end of a spudger to pry both antenna cable connectors up and off their sockets on the AirPort/Bluetooth card.

One of my terminals is broken. What solutions do you recommend me

Omar Lopez - 27/09/16

You’re actually pushing the connector from side to side toward the front of the case (or towards the track pad). It’s not a vertical motion at all.

Jay Quilty - 03/10/18

I’d also mention to be careful taking these off and putting them back on. I also accidentally pulled a terminal off it’a cable.

Jean-Pierre Bazinet - 21/11/18

If the process is taken to replace the top case, you can leave the AirPort card hanging from the antenna wires. Only remove the card’s retaining screw and slide the card to the right (direction of the antenna connectors) to separate it from the main board.

Yishai Sered -

Step 4

Disconnect the camera cable connector with the tip of a spudger.
Push first on one side of the connector, then on the other side to carefully "walk" it out of its socket.
Pull the camera cable parallel to the face of the I/O board toward the front edge of the Air to disconnect it from its socket.
Do not lift upward on this cable as you disconnect it, as its socket may break off the logic board.

You’ve missed a whole section here on removing the fan. It’s still present in Step 19 pics, but gone by Step 23. It’s not that it’s difficult to work out how to do it. But, when reassembling and following the steps in reverse, it’s handy to know when to use which screws!

Stuzzington Botulism - 30/05/18

Ah! –my bad. The steps for removing Fan etc. are there –up round Step 13. It’s just your photos that are slightly out of sync, as it’s back in place again by Step 19. So, while working in reverse, it looks like it’s not been covered.

Stuzzington Botulism - 30/05/18

On getting it on — i feel it's implied by the word "push” you can walk it out with the spudger. I couldn't wanage that, and instead walked it out by taking the cord between my index and thumb and walking it out by pulling it to the right and then the left repeatedly in a

Elijah Kennedy - 12/10/20

Step 5

Use the tip of a spudger or your fingernail to flip up the retaining flap on the trackpad ribbon cable ZIF socket.
Be sure you are prying up on the hinged retaining flap, not the socket itself.
Pull the trackpad ribbon cable straight out of its socket toward the front edge of the Air.

Step 6

Use the tip of a spudger to flip up the retaining flap on the keyboard backlight ribbon cable ZIF socket.
Be sure you are prying up on the hinged retaining flap, not the socket itself.
Use your spudger to gently pull the keyboard backlight ribbon cable out of its socket.

Do you know where i can buy the retaining clip ?

Jo (MemePasGame) - 19/03/18

Not sure you can. I’d just use some kapton tape to hold it in place and call it good.

maccentric - 08/11/18

Step 7

Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the right speaker cable connector up and out of its socket on the logic board.
It is recommended to pry up from beneath the cables.

What is this cables for?

great.ryankim - 24/05/19

It’s a speaker cable

maccentric - 01/11/19

This is the one that gave me the hardest time!!! It does pop up and out tho.

Edward Mills - 08/07/20

Step 8

Remove the six 6.3 mm T5 Torx screws securing the logic board to the upper case.
On some models these may be 4.1 mm T5 Torx screws.

When re-assembling the motherboard, attach all 6 screws but do not completely tighten yet.

First make sure the rubber gasket is sitting properly, that the 7th screw hole (from Step 18) is properly aligned, and the Airport wire is sitting properly and also not caught under the heat sink.

Once everything is well aligned, start tightening the screws while watching out for the alignment. I found it useful to keep an eye on screw-hole from Step 18 as a reference.

Rany -

Going in this order, there is a 7th screw securing the logic board to the frame; the heatsink is secured to the logic board with 4 screws, and secured to the frame with 1 more screw. Either take the heatsink off first, or remove that last screw underneath two small black wires, next to the left (as viewed when using the computer; if the computer is flipped over with the cover off and the monitor hinge end of the computer farthest from you, it is in the far right corner) set of three big torx screws that hold the hinge in place. The exact location of this screw is pictured in step 35's second picture; the screw goes through the loop visible below the rubber fan insulator. Scoot those 2 li'l wires out of the way and remove that screw, then the logic board comes right out. If this isn't clear, please let me know and I'll try to describe it better, or add a photo. If I'm posting this to the wrong instruction page, let me know; I was pretty sure I correctly identified my rig, but if not, sorry for the N00bage.

Fox MacLeod - 22/03/15

I got an extra screw hiding under the rubber gasket holding the end of the heatsink to the chassis. Ended up bending the heatsink a little cause I wasn't looking for it.

Corvallis Computer - 22/10/15

In the model I was working on, the 6th screw (in the middle) was hiding under the Samsung RAM module. Simply remove the one T5 screw holding it in, slide the RAM module out, and the 6th screw will be exposed.

Tim - 17/12/19

“Samsung RAM module”… do you mean the SSD? That stick of NVRAM is totally your hard drive.

FeRD - 23/01/20

Exactly, he means SSD (storage) the RAM (memory) is soldered to this 820-00165 logic board. Also on this model the 2015 MBA there is no logic board retaining screw under the SSD

Peter Newman - 08/06/20

Step 9

Remove the inner two 4.9 mm T8 Torx screws securing the antenna cable retainer and left clutch hinge to the upper case.

This is the same screws as step 17.

Joseph Lee - 12/02/17

In both the online and the PDF version, Steps 17-18 and Steps 29-30 are identical. At which stage should you actually remove the display screws?

adlerpe - 15/02/17

Good catch! We did some sleuthing and it looks like a couple guides did indeed have an extra section of steps! All better now =)

Sam Goldheart - 16/02/17

In my computer these screws were the same size as the other side’s hinge screws. All 6 are the same size.

Yishai Sered -

Step 10

Push the antenna cable retainer away slightly and remove the 3 mm T5 Torx screw securing the end of the heat sink to the upper case.

This step is not needed

mayer - 11/07/18

It’s not clear what you mean by “This step is not needed.” If you want to remove the logic board from the upper case in order to put it onto your replacement upper case, you will have to remove this screw.

Richard Garella - 04/11/18

This step is only needed if you’re replacing the ENTIRE top case. Simply swapping out the trackpad unit does not make this step necessary. This entire tutorial assumes you’re replacing the entire top case which is an expensive mistake if you’re simply replacing the trackpad and/or keyboard. The keyboard is removable as well despite those many tiny rivets. Save money and time by not replacing the entire top case for a bad trackpad and/or keyboard. I needed to accomplish this step because I also removed and replaced the keyboard.

airshack - 05/01/19

NOTE: There is a sort of clamp/washer attached to this screw that I didn’t know about until I flipped the laptop up on its side and it fell onto the desk. Also: you need to reset it *before* the motherboard

Edward Mills - 08/07/20

In my computer this screw was not there, nor was a related washer. I got it used so perhaps someone has already been there and did not replace the screw.

Also, the photo here shows how this end of the fan gasket is placed

.

Yishai Sered - 31/08/21

Step 11

Slide the flat end of a spudger under the right speaker from the end nearest the hinge to the front edge of the Air to loosen the adhesive.
Remove the right speaker from the upper case.

You don’t really *have* to remove the speaker, especially if your replacement upper case assembly already includes the speakers.

Alexander Zub - 05/11/17

I found the same. If you already have speakers in your new upper case, you can leave them. When you put the logic board back in, it will be a tight fit. I had to start with the corner near the right hinge (the Thunderbolt port corner) and work it in to place.

Richard Garella - 04/11/18

If your keyboard and/or trackpad need replacing you do not have to replace the entire top case.

airshack - 05/01/19

Step 12

Carefully remove the logic board assembly from the upper case, minding any cables that may get caught.
During reassembly:
Keep loose cables clear of the board so they aren't caught under it.
Make sure the antenna cables are inserted into their respective notches, as highlighted in the second picture.

It’s probably worth mentioning here that during reassembly you want to tuck the rubber gasket under the extension of the heat sink that the fan slots into.

David Bonner -