MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Mid 2010 Display Replacement

Written By: Andrew Bookholt
  • Comments: 28
MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Mid 2010 Display Replacement

Difficulty

Moderate

Steps

15

Time Required

45 minutes

Introduction

Use this guide to replace the entire display assembly.

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    • Remove the following 10 screws securing the lower case to the MacBook Pro 13" Unibody:

    • Seven 3 mm Phillips screws.

    • Three 13.5 mm Phillips screws.

    Compare the short screws carefully before reinstalling them. The shouldered screws go in the holes on the front edge.

    David Kilbridge -

    Before I started removing any screws I took a piece of paper and drew the bottom of the laptop and put a piece of double-sided tape in the spot where each screw goes. That way when I took out the screws, I could put them on the tape so I knew exactly which screw went in which spot. I did the same thing for dismantling the inside on another sheet of paper, then a third sheet for the screen after getting the front glass off.

    mastover -

    I use a similar technique: I print out the iFixit manual for the job, and Scotch-tape down the screws/brackets/cables I remove at each step next to the component descriptions. That way, when I'm reassembling, the bits are taped right next to the photo of where they came from.

    adlerpe -

    That's exactly what I do for all my repairs! It's the best way to keep track of all of the parts ' original location and to make sure that you don't miss any parts during reassembly.

    joyitsjennie -

    Great idea and one I use often

    Thomas Overstreet -

    Excellent idea! Thanks for sharing it here.

    Laura Sharkey -

    I used a 00 that fit but the screws were very tight so I used a tiny paintbrush with some wd40 on it and put it around the edges of the screws. Worked like a charm

    valentinedhdh -

    I use a magnetic mat and place the screws in order on that :)

    Cary B -

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    • Slightly lift the lower case and push it toward the rear of the computer to free the mounting tabs.

    In the introduction you should link fixers to this excellent doc: https://www.ifixit.com/Misc/HD_Software_...

    It is really critical, super easy, and free(!) to clone your existing drive onto the new one you will install. I ran into one error, but SuperDuper! support replied immediately on how to fix it...Thanks ifixit and SuperDuper! (I ponied up the $28 for the software anyway, I was so impressed!)

    Mike -

    Long story short: I drank the AppleKoolAid back in 1984 and have always left the guts of my machines up to Apple - until recently when I needed to swap the SATAs from my original MacDaddy (2009 13" MBPro that I killed in 2018 - coffee + blackout = OOOOPS) into a pristine 2009 MBPro from a Goodwill in North Carolina through eBay. I need the files from iCal and MacMail that can't be opened in my newer machines.

    Well . . . I ain't never done nuttin' like that, before!

    Enter Luke Miani on YouTube. He raves about you guys! So, I watched everything I could, read your site, bought the right tools and at the ripe old age of 72, I sat down, this morning and did the work. Now my original MacDaddy lives in MacDaddy2.0.

    Am I allowed to cry?

    Seriously, I can't thank you enough for your bitchen site and killer tools. I wish I'd'a been turned on to this shizzle 30+ years ago.

    IFIXIT - IDIGIT!

    kath myers -

    HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA.

    That was a brilliant read.

    Yes, I came across ifixit a few years ago. Totally helped me out on several occasions.

    Glad your Mac repair journey worked out.

    :)

    Cary B -

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    • For precautionary purposes, we advise that you disconnect the battery connector from the logic board to avoid any electrical discharge.

    • Use the flat end of a spudger to lift the battery connector up out of its socket on the logic board.

    Quote from gansodesoya:

    why is step 3 necessary?

    Just to disconnect any power source to avoid damages by short-circuits.

    MrKane -

    How do you get that battery connector back on? Do you just press it in back in place after you're done?

    Horace Chung -

    yes. I usually plug it in before I screw it down so I can lift the battery a bit and have enough slack to be able to go straight down on the connector, otherwise it comes in on a bit of an angle, which can't be good (though not necessarily bad).

    maccentric -

    This step almost finished me, and I did extensive damage to the battery plug. Fortunately, I later replaced the battery, and the replacement came with a new plug! :) Newbies need to know - 1. The battery plug is like a thin lip on a thicker lip, so you need to pry BETWEEN 2 thin lips to get it off, else you are trying to yank out the socket. 2. Mine was initially VERY tight, and trying to get it out broke the plastic on all sides of plug, even though I was as careful as possible. Luckily, this didn't hurt functionality and I later replaced the battery. AFTER disconnecting once, it was never so tight again,

    Jeff Diamond -

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    • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry up the subwoofer/right speaker cable connector out of its socket on the logic board.

    • Pry up from beneath the wires.

    Mine had a small piece of insulating material on top of the connector. By removing that first, I could then pry up the connector with less stress on the cable.

    istlota -

    Great tip! Thanks.

    juliet -

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    • Disconnect the camera cable by pulling the male end straight away from its socket.

    • Make sure to pull the connector parallel to the face of the logic board and toward the optical drive, not straight up from its socket.

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    • De-route the camera data cable from the channel in the optical drive.

    for easy dismantle, just remove 2 screw of subwoofer

    Mohamad Faizal Sharudin -

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    • Remove the following screws:

    • Two 10 mm Phillips screws

    • One 3.8 mm Phillips screw

    • Slide the camera cable bracket out from under the subwoofer and remove it from the computer.

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    • Grab the plastic pull tab secured to the display data cable lock and rotate it toward the DC-In side of the computer.

    • Pull the display data cable connector straight away from its socket.

    • Make sure to pull the connector straight away and not straight up from its socket.

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    • Remove the following two screws securing the display data cable bracket to the upper case:

    • One 8.6 mm Phillips screw

    • One 5.6 mm Phillips screw

    • Lift the display data cable bracket out of the upper case.

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    • If present, remove the small strip of foam tape stuck to the display screws near the display data cable.

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    • Remove the two outer 6.5 mm T8 Torx screws securing each of the two display brackets to the upper case (4 screws total).

    You may have to lift/remove a foam tape on the left side as well

    Sebastien CHAPUIS -

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    • Open your MacBook so the display is perpendicular to the upper case.

    • Place your opened MacBook on a table as pictured.

    • While holding the display and upper case together with your left hand, remove the remaining 6.5 mm T8 Torx screw from the lower display bracket.

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    • Be sure to hold the display and upper case together with your left hand. Failure to do so may cause the freed display/upper case to fall, potentially damaging each component.

    • Remove the last remaining T8 Torx screw securing the display to the upper case.

    When reassembling, Careful not to drop your screw, or it may get stuck to the (magnetic) power adapter port. Oops!

    Save yourself some time and don't drop it!

    rowdyferret -

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    • Grab the upper case with your right hand and rotate it slightly toward the top of the display so the upper display bracket clears the edge of the upper case.

    • Rotate the display slightly away from the upper case.

    Make sure you make a 90 degree angle between the keyboard and the display before taking out the screws. If you have less than a 90, you will never get it apart due to the upper display bracket shape. It has to be at the right angle or it won't come out.

    mastover -

    I place it over keyboard side down hanging over a table. This way I know it's at 90 degrees and it also makes it easier to take it off.

    Nick -

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    • Lift the display up and away from the upper case, minding any brackets or cables that may get caught.

    As mentioned in the previous step, place it keyboard side down with the edge hanging over a table. This way it's at 90 degrees and it makes it easier to align and get the screws in.

    Josh -

Conclusion

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

Author

Andrew Bookholt

578096 Reputation

5 comments

Awesome guide!! Thank you so much for walking me through this. It was surprisingly easy. Only took me about 30 min to do. Best Buy Canada quoted me $900 to do this repair. Total cost of tools from iFixit and parts from eBay... $280 :) THANK YOU IFIXIT!!!!!

spenczoid -

Thanks for the guide, it was spot on. I dropped my beloved MacBook Pro and it cracked the display. Following the guide was a snap even for my old eyes, the ability to make the pictures full screen is great.

jackpollard -

I found a used complete display unit for sale on ebay. Delivered 50$ and half an hour of work and am up and have a lovely MBP 13 inch mid 2010. Many thanks for the useful and detailed guide.

keithp198 -

Had the standard problem with a loose screen on a MacBook Pro 13in 2010. Followed the guide which is very clear and got to the screws which I could then tighten. Reassembled and on booting could hear the fan but no display aside from a few flashes. Rechecked the screen data cable connection which was slightly mis-aligned. corrected it and it worked fine. That connection is very sensitive!

Saved me $900 quoted by the Macstore - 90 mins work on my own and a few grey hairs. A glass of red wine helps.

Norbert -

Just followed the steps and I successfully reinstalled a new screen/lid assembly. The only problem being was step 4. When gently (underline gently) removed the audio cable, all of the pins fractured and remained in the board so now my onboard audio is highly limited. I have to ask why was that step necessary as the removal/reinstall would have been completely possible without step 4. Greg

gdmenginc -