Motorola Moto X 2nd Generation Battery Replacement

Written By: Sophia

Comments: 56

Motorola Moto X 2nd Generation Battery Replacement

Difficulty

Moderate

Steps

Time Required

35 minutes - 1 hour

Introduction

The battery is a delicate and critical component of a cell phone, and great care should be taken when replacing it. The Motorola Moto X 2nd generation phone battery can be replaced without any specialized skills and only a few standard maintenance tools. Make sure to power off the phone completely and disconnect from all cables. You should always back up your phone data when replacing a critical component to avoid any losses due to accidental damage. Take additional care if the battery is swollen..

Tools

Parts

Step 1

Remove the SIM card tray by inserting the SIM card eject tool into the small hole on the tray.

Eject tool was too big. Took a little ‘screwing’ to get it to work. Using the IFIXIT tool IF145-091-1

wasatchu - 06/02/19

Step 2

Insert a SIM eject tool into the SIM tray slot, and through a small hole in the mid frame.
Push the SIM eject tool through the hole and against the back cover to lift the cover slightly.
Insert an opening pick into the gap created with the SIM eject tool, and slide the pick around the edge of the cover to cut the cover's adhesive.
Cut carefully near the volume buttons, to avoid damaging the delicate ribbon cables in that area under the cover.
Remove back cover.

My SIM card eject tool got stuck.

wasatchu - 06/02/19

Note: The hole is near the top, off to the side. The objective is to push against the case. If your case is like mine, you will notice a ‘dimple’ in the case. You need three hands for this.

wasatchu - 06/02/19

This would have worked if I hadn’t messed up the SIM slot. When you look into the slot for the hole, it will be in the upper left-hand corner if the screen it to you. I did not see this hole and pushed the extraction tool too far into the slot. Don’t do this.

wasatchu - 07/02/19

I recommend buying the adhesive cover. It’s not essential, it’s a nice to have. It worked without, but I would have used it if I had it.

wasatchu - 07/02/19

Image #1 is exactly how and where you hold it—with constant pressure at an angle (you can see a slot for this very purpose on the bottom right with the back cover facing you). All the SIM eject tool is meant to do is push the cover out very slightly from the frame. It’s barely visible, and you have to be fast with the pick. This might be easier if you have iFixit’s iOpener; because of that (applied heat), my cover came off with almost no digging around the sides.

Greta Schmidt - 28/02/20

Step 3

Remove the rubber covers from the two connector pieces indicated in the photo

Replacing the battery connector cover (the second one in the sequence) was tight. I succeeded by first inserting the top left corner (oriented as shown in the picture) into place.

Yishai Sered - 25/01/17

Step 4

Use the spudger to release the connectors from under the covers.

When I tried to lift the battery connector (the second one in the sequence), the plastic lip by which to lift broke off the connector on the battery lead.

I ended up leaving the connector in place and separating the middle housing carefully with the cable still attached. Then, when I could get to the connector from all side, lifting the connector from the cable attachment side.

Yishai Sered - 25/01/17

Step 5

Use a T3 Torx driver to remove the screws.
Remove the middle housing from front assembly.

Some claim it isn't T3, but T4 screws!

[deleted] - 10/12/16

Mine were T4. Unfortunately, the T3 worked for most screws, but stripped the really tight ones.

Joe D - 14/03/18

Mine were T3.

Devanir Garcia Junior - 09/07/18

Mine were a mix. Most were T4 (though the T3 bit works, with the risk of rounding off the screw). The screw by the volume buttons was definitely a T3 though. The two by the USB jack might have been T3 or T4, couldn’t tell.

Wim - 26/01/19

Just had to order a T3, as the T4 didn’t work on any of the screws.

LAURA MCCANN - 23/11/19

Step 6

Remove the logo, as the flex cable under the logo is fastened to the back of the battery. This can be done by removing the three surrounding screws, and then prying off the structure that encapsulates the logo.

It should be noted in the guide that the logo plate and housing are stuck on there with adhesive. Mine was very snug. Be careful when prying it up from the left as you see in image #3 because you don’t want to damage the cable underneath.

Greta Schmidt - 28/02/20

Step 7

Use the flat end of a spudger to gently pry up the ribbon cable in the two places where it is adhered to the battery.

Make sure you loosen the cable at both points, the one under the logo as well as the small connector board shown in the second image!

Justin Nichols - 04/10/16

I chose to separate the cable attached to small connector board. That's by lifting the tape, then lifting the clamp (clear plastic on mine) and pulling the cable straight back. That gave me a bit more room to poke at the connector board from multiple edges to loosen the adhesive.

Yishai Sered - 25/01/17

On the second cable, loosen the entire connector board, not the little ribbon cable. I did just the cable, and was unable to get the cable to stick in place when putting it back together. This cable is for the power and volume buttons.

Joe D - 14/03/18

Question: Does the second smaller cable connector with small piece of yellow tape (which came off) snap in place or slide in? When I press the cable (contacts) on with my finger I can get the power and volume controls to work, I tried tape but that doesn’t have enough pressure.

I am ready to use super glue!

J Towne - 28/06/19

Step 8

Lift one of the two battery adhesive tabs and pull firmly and steadily toward the bottom edge of the phone, until the adhesive strip slides all the way out from between the battery and the phone.
Repeat for the other adhesive tab.
Remove the battery.

My battery arrived without replacement adhesive and I just placed it in the middle housing. A bit of adhesive remained to help is stay in place while I put the middle housing and the front assembly together. There is a channel in the middle housing for the battery cable. Be sure to flatten the cable and align it to the housing so that it is oriented correctly to its connector.

I recommend verifying the alignment after replacing only a few screws, and replacing all the connectors. Then turn the phone on and verify that the battery is charging, the buttons work, WiFi and Cellular connections succeed. Only then replace the rest of the screws, the logo and the back.

Yishai Sered - 25/01/17

Step 9

If the adhesive strips do not fully come out you will need to pry it out from the other side, but be VERY careful as the NFC coil is under the battery and can be ripped easily.

Conclusion

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

After completing this guide, calibrate your newly-installed battery.

Author

Sophia

Member since: 25/03/14

43735 Reputation

37 comments

Are you friggin' kidding me. Why would Motorola make a major project out of simply removing a battery. Definately needs to be simplified. It'seems like doing friggin' surgery on a phone.

tspeanut122 - 03/05/16

Too funny! hahahha

Pamela Orjuela - 27/01/17

I'd call this battery replacement requirement 'built in obsolescence'! There's no way I'd attempt this. I'd rather buy a new phone. Then again, that's probably why it's so complicated...

Ben Miller - 23/05/16

LOL Obviously you've never replaced a laptop motherboard ;)

nightopz - 20/06/16

How do you repeat the steps in reverse such that you replace the adhesive holding the battery in place? Does a new battery come with the adhesive?

Richard Glendinning - 23/09/16

I tried it but the battery I bought (said to be genuine and almost identical to the original) just caused the green light (solid, not blinking) to come on when the phone was plugged in. It never charged or started up, so I replaced the original and luckily it still started up.

bob - 03/10/16

Worked for me. A lot of work to get more life out of the phone. I almost thought I'd never get all of those screws back in.

Al Louetta - 07/10/16

I couldn't even get the back to lift up enough to wriggle a pick/spudger behind the casing.

Shaun - 13/10/16

I'd not recommend doing this. Pulling the adhesive tabs does not remove all the adhesive and the remaining adhesive patches (at least on my Republic Wireless moto x) are strategically placed to make all the wiring under the battery come off along with it...

den - 13/11/16

6 of those 18 screws were totally ruined when I just tried to screw them off. No force, the T3 torx and easy on my hand - still ruined.

And since they're in small holes, they cannot be reached or removed. Neither rubber band nor superglue worked.

[deleted] - 09/12/16

Where can i buy the replacement battery?

Ignacio Talatinian - 31/12/16

I ripped off one of the T3 screws - make sure to press down HARD on them before torquing.

IMPORTANT info about the step 8 - the battery is glued to a flex PCB and it's glued REALLY %#*@ WELL to it. When I tried to pull it out it ripped a chunk of what I think was the NFC antenna :/ I kinda put it back, and the phone booted and worked anyway. Whoever designed it this way is a dick.

Lena Zhivun - 01/04/17

Hi,

There was an additional adhesive strip towards the top of the battery and when I pulled the battery out it snapped the NFC Antenna that has two terminals melted into the middle case. I heard the snap but you didn't note how to remove the battery and you did not show an image of the proper way to pull out the battery. $400 down the drain. I fired up the Weller WES51 and anchored the flex cable down with a steel separator tool and dropped a drop of eco flux and silver solder on each terminal, brought the iron up to 70 and the solder anchored each terminal to each side of the flex cable and upon reassembly it powered up and performs flawlessly. You might want to add a word of caution about this third strip of adhesive and the flex cable beneath the battery towards the top of the case by the "M" medallion area that is prone to breakage; otherwise folks will snap this cable if they are unaware of it. Otherwise excellent instructions! Thank you!

Corey Gray - 07/04/17

I ran into this, too. Happily, replacement of the entire frame+cable assembly is cheap in 2021, enough so that trying to fix the ribbon cable wasn’t worth the effort.

John Lasseter - 22/05/21

I followed this instructions and everything is working except the speaker. Someone had this experience and/or knows how to fix it?

marcus - 14/04/17

I have the same issue with speaker after the battery replacement. After searching on other users facing similar issue, I figured out it is because of a loose connection between the speaker connectors due to the new battery thickness being slightly greater. If I push down on the back of my phone where the rear speaker is, the speaker starts working. I'm going to try few things to make the connection better - such as bending the connectors a little or adding something before putting on the back cover at the right spot so it will keep pressure and make the connection better.

Also refer to this link for more details - https://plus.google.com/+BenSycha/posts/...

Sachin Bhope - 22/07/17

where to buy the battery.

venky phani - 16/10/17

Don’t miss to remove the second cable on step 7. Just ripped it off, no power button doesn’t work anymore!

Joe Schroecker - 31/10/17

This!! &&^& Motorola, That’s just a %#*@ booby trap. Don’t unclip the cable in step 7, pry the whole tiny PCB off the battery. No reason for that part other than to &&^& people that try to do this on their own. Get a new one here for $7: https://www.amazon.com/ePartSolution_Mot...

Aaron McMillin - 28/02/18

Was the time between charges increased by doing this? Was there ANY benefit in changing the battery?

Jon Steiner - 03/11/17

Hi sir I would to have new (moto.x2) or used one …could you advise me how get…I am from UAE Dubai…any shope thT5i could founded exalt thank you…

Hamid - 30/11/17

The guide is perfect, but the video is completely wrong. By my mistake, I used only the video to guide me and got the volume cabe ripped of. The autor (or the admin) must change or remove this video to avoid anothers mistakes.

Rodrigo Ribeiro - 03/12/17

The guide is perfect, but the video is completely wrong. By my mistake, I only used the video (after I saw it here) to guide me and got my volume cable ripped off. The autor (or the admin) must change or remove this video, to avoid anothers to make the same mistake.

Rodrigo Ribeiro - 03/12/17

I thought I did everything right.

I put Humpty Dumpty together again, plugged it in, got the battery charging screen and charged to 100%.

Unplugged and pushed the power button and…

NOTHING

Just a black screen, no response.

Does the Hivemind have any ideas of whether this is indicative of anything specific?

Thanks

jor_rox - 04/12/17

jor_rox - If you plug power again, does the charging screen show again? If so, the main board is still alive.

First to suspect is the button cable. Be sure all the cables are well seated.

Yishai Sered - 18/01/18

The screws are T4, not T3.

T3 will engage and unscrew if it’s loose enough, but if the screw is tight, all you will do is strip it out. Ask me how I found this out. Go ahead, ask.

Joe D - 14/03/18

Success. I regret trying this. A few caveats - most of them already mentioned by someone else.

A) Rely on the pictures rather than on the video.

B) Step 2 is harder than what the video shows (need to pull the back cover hard while making sure that nothing is broken).

C) Step 7 was misleading as there are 2 places where the flat cable must be removed. I had only seen the first picture. The flat cable got damaged and I was able to make it work by inserting a small piece of material on top of the cable to make sure that the contacts worked fine. BTW, this is the flat cable used by phone buttons and it is VERY easy to break. Mine broke exactly where there is only a small piece of duct tape.

D) Loud speaker did not work and I had to bend the contacts as suggested by someone else.

E) Reassemble: the new battery was very similar to the original but it ended up being 1mm or 2mm closer to the lower part of the phone. As a result it was harder to connect this cable.

Devanir Garcia Junior - 09/07/18

This repair was really not easy. The guide is very well written and accurate. The Torx screws were a nightmare, and would be the end of the road for most people. I ordered a battery and it came with a T3 (i think) and stripped most of the screwheads. Remember, this is a very difficult, near impossible repair because they want you to buy a new phone every year. MY recommended tool list - thin paper clip (the thicker kind doesn’t fit in the SIM eject slot), guitar picks (I used the blue spudger), a decent, insanely small jeweler’s flat head if you can’t get a reputable T3.. and after you strip some of the heads, a 5/64’s drill bit and a Rigid cordless drill. Seriously, I drilled out the screw heads that stripped and it worked fine. I DID have to fiddle with the external speaker afterwards, but all-in-all, I’m satisfied. OH! And get an Otterbox. With missing some screws now, you’ll need to squeeze this puppy back together.

Thomas Gleason - 25/10/18

I read and internalized all these comments before starting this replacement. It went very well. Thank you all.

I can see how the NFC antenna could tear because of the way the case is segmented. I used a tongue depressor to help pry the battery away from the case toward the top. It worked well.

The flex cable on my replacement battery was shaped and angled differently than the original battery. I had to fold the flex cable over the connector to orient it properly. I also had to make this connection before bringing the middle housing and front assembly together.

My replacement battery came with T3 and T5 Torx drivers, so I went to the hardware store and bought a T4. It worked like a dream. I had no issues with screws.

I added no adhesive or tape. I just pressed everything back together. It seemed to hold well. Phone, wifi, speaker, and power button all work.

I watched the video to get a better understanding how it would go, but I followed the step-by-step pictures when actually doing the procedure.

Karl Geisler - 28/10/18

I have just completed the guide, successfully replacing the battery on my Moto X 2nd Gen. Since I ignored the video, everything went well. There was only one point of confusion: The guide should state that the replacement battery may not contain the “PULL TO REMOVE BATTERY” tabs and adhesive strips so don’t expect to be leaving the inside of the phone exactly the way you found it when you reverse your steps.

Geoffrey Gibbons - 06/01/19

I put this off for over a year because my XT1095 was my daily driver. Bought a new phone for Christmas this year so decided to take the plunge. This was my first battery replacement attempt. Took me a little over an hour to get it apart, mostly due to a really stuck battery connector. Reassembly was a breeze. I bought an extra case back just in case I cracked my bamboo one, but I only made a small nick so I reused the old one. I couldn't have been more pleased when the phone powered on and took a charge. Overall a good experience!

Justin White - 15/01/19

Thanks for sharing. As a side note, I did manage to remove the battery without removing the original adhesive slips. Used my heat blower on low and went gently prying the battery from the sides with a long plastic spud. Weirdly, the newer battery (same model) is a bit smaller on the sides than the original, or maybe the original expanded to the sides with use? Just curious. Everything worked. Thanks again.

Jeffo Moreira - 16/03/19

It is weird that what keeps it all together in the end is sticky tape. But I guess taking apart an Iphone is weirder still

Johannes Rohr - 05/06/19

Success! This is totally doable. I had my doubts, but I am very glad I read all the instructions thoroughly, read all the comments (very helpful) and watched video first. Use a magnifying glass and also zoom in on the pictures to see exactly what is going on in each step. The battery I bought from this site is the real deal. I used 3mil double sided tape to stick everything back together. I put the tape over the adhesive left on the back cover because I noticed the adhesive is strategically placed to avoid covering some of the connections and other phone components. I had a little trouble connecting the battery in step 4 (second picture) so heed the advice in comments about lining up the ribbon. I bought the T4 Torx and it worked though I’m glad I heeded the advice to push hard. My son tried to take out a few screws and I heard sounds of stripping. As for the other tools, I used a small paperclip, guitar picks, and small metal screwdriver and tweezers with electrical tape wrapped on the ends.

Scott Hoover - 30/07/19

As far as I can tell, the switch was successful and not too hard. I did follow a YouTube video instead, pausing as I went and double checking with these instructions. My phone also only used T3 screws and since this guide suggested T4, I had to order the correct size and wait a day to get it done. It was a magnetic screwdriver, I am not sure I could have done it if the screwdriver was not magnetized, as the screws are so tiny. I did not add any additional glue or tape, but I use a cover that is snug….between that and the screws, there doesn’t seen to be any gaps or problem.

LAURA MCCANN - 23/11/19

Can’t believe how simple a job this was. I think it should be rated easy! However, my training wheels were a Moto Pure (a bit more to deal with there—more adhesive, cables, tiny connections and potential problems), so if not for that perhaps I'd deem this a more difficult task. Also, everyone’s phone will be a bit different inside. Though I bought a new leather cover with adhesive ready to go, the one I removed came off with nearly all of its adhesive still attached (SO not the case with the Pure)! Same thing with the logo plate and battery housings—no need to add more adhesive; this might be because I used iFixit’s iOpener (a heat pack) which had worked great on the Moto Pure. Honestly, though, this went so well! I mean to add notes on back cover and logo plate removal in the steps, but here I'll just say that if you're patient, steady-handed and consider the parts you're dealing with (what they do, why they're there), this will be an easy process for you. Thanks for the battery and guide, iFixit!

Greta Schmidt - 28/02/20

If a qualified service person is available who does the job for a senior/ retired person like me at my door who does the job with a new battery it would be of great service. Thank you.

B.V.Suresh Shetru - 06/11/20