Introduction

The Nintendo Switch Pro controller’s buttons and D-Pad are the main inputs of the controller. The buttons may need to be replaced if they are unresponsive, please check out our troubleshooting guide for more information.

During disassembly be careful of sharp edges, there are a few exposed pieces of plastic that could cut you.

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    • Flip the controller over so the model stickers face the ceiling.

    • Use a JIS #00 screwdriver to remove the two black 8.4 mm screws that secure the handles, located at the ends of the handles.

    Be carefull, these screws are super easy to strip even with the right tools.

    Lukas Eberharter -

    I tried editing these instructions after I had trouble with stripping screws, but it doesn't seem to take. The issue is that these are JIS and not Phillips screws. They are VERY similar looking but a Phillips head screwdriver will strip the screws.

    Isaac Webb -

    I tried using a Philips #00 screwdriver but it didn’t work

    vincent ingrassia -

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    • Carefully remove the handle covers by pulling them away from the main body.

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    • Use a JIS #00 screwdriver to remove the four silver 6.8 mm screws that secure the clear back plastic cover.

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    • Carefully pry away the clear plastic cover using your fingernail.

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    • Remove the clear plastic cover.

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    • Remove the lithium-ion battery by using a fingernail or plastic opening tool to pry it up on the left side.

    • Only a small amount of force is needed.

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    • Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the five 5mm-long screws from the back of the controller.

    the 2 screws up at the top are unreachable with the standard fixit kit just a heads up

    drew -

    Seconded. the screws are located too deep below the plastic slot, and the bit holding bulge is too wide for the small aperture (similarly with the flexible extension). the bit length is too shallow to reach.

    An alternative driver with a much narrower & longer shaft is required, which will likely not come with interchangeable bits.

    Douglas Selby -

    I would say it is possible to reach the top left screw, just not the top right - there is a gap in the top left that allows you to slightly bend the standard driver outward to turn it while still making adequate contact.

    El_Mechacontext -

    An update: I was actually able to remove the top right one in a really hacky way - inserting the Phillips #0 bit into the #4 hex bit, and then using that in the standard driver. This added just enough length to successfully reach and make full contact with the screw!

    El_Mechacontext -

    Using the #4 hex bit as an extension was the exact "hack" I needed to get rid of the drift finally. Thank you. You're a lifesaver.

    Das #4 Hex Bit als Verlängerung für das Kreuzschlitz Bit zu nutzen ist zwar etwas eng, aber es erspart einem wirklich einen zusätzlichen Schraubendreher.

    Techn0magier -

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    • Delicately take off the plastic cover from the controller.

    • Do not completely remove the front cover just yet, as it is still attached to the motherboard via a white ribbon cable.

    Didn't realize there is adhesive holding the front cover onto the unit. It's located inside of the handles. Just a bit of force there helped, just be careful of the cable.

    Roger Perez -

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    • Use the tip of an opening pick to open the black flap of the ZIF connector by pushing it upwards.

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    • Use your fingers or a pair of blunt nose tweezers to disconnect the interconnect cable from its connector.

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    • Remove the front case.

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    • Remove the two 6.8 mm-long screws on the top circuit board using a Phillips screwdriver.

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    • Use a spudger to flip up the locking tab on the ZIF connector.

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    • Remove the black ribbon cable from its connector.

    • Only a small amount of force should be needed to remove the ribbon cable.

    What do I do if the connector snaps off? Is it fixable with solder or electrical tape or should I give up hope?

    Jack Frost -

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    • Remove the trigger buttons from the plastic cover.

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    • Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the two 5 mm-long screw securing the circuit board.

    There’s one more screw - in this picture, on the left. The junction of the body and left grip, right behind the ABXY buttons.

    Matt Rausch -

    Hi @mattrausch, thanks for your comment. You're right, the circuit board is held by two screws. I've updated this step.

    Adriana Zwink -

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    • Remove the circuit board.

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    • Use your fingers or a pair of tweezers to remove the button(s) you wish to replace.

Conclusion

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

James Seidlinger

Member since: 10/10/19

572 Reputation

One comment

On re-assembly, you may have trouble getting the top circuit board and shoulder button support structure to snap into place. It’s easiest to get the circuit board around the right analog stick hole, and push it all the way down until it is in place, then to secure the shoulder button support structure.

Make sure the “Home” button clear plastic light spreader (a clear irregular circle-shaped piece) is in place on top of the home button assembly, or it will give the home button a “sunken” appearance.

nclee -