iPad mini 4 Wi-Fi Screen and Digitizer Replacement

Written By: Evan Noronha

Comments: 35

iPad mini 4 Wi-Fi Screen and Digitizer Replacement

Difficulty

Moderate

Steps

Time Required

30 minutes - 2 hours

Introduction

Follow the steps in this guide to replace your iPad mini 4 display assembly, including the fused LCD and digitizer glass.

This procedure involves removing the screen then transferring the home button to your new assembly. In order to maintain Touch ID functionality you must transfer your original home button to the new screen.

Depending on your replacement part, you may also need to transfer the sleep/wake sensor for Smart Cover use, this portion of the procedure requires desoldering a cable.

Tools

Parts

Step 1

Heat an iOpener and apply it to the left edge for two minutes.

Step 2

Apply a suction cup halfway up the heated side.
Be sure the cup is completely flat on the screen to get a tight seal.
While holding the iPad down with one hand, pull up on the suction cup with strong, steady force to create a gap.
Depending on the age of your device, this may be difficult. If you have trouble, apply more heat and try again.
Be careful to only lift the glass enough to insert an opening pick—any more and you risk cracking the glass.

Step 3

While holding the glass up with the suction cup, insert the point of an opening pick into the gap between the glass and body of the iPad.
Don't insert the opening pick any deeper than 2 mm into the side of the display. Inserting the pick deeper than 2 mm could damage the backlight assembly, LCD display, or touchscreen.

“Don't insert the opening pick any deeper than the black bezel on the side of the display. Inserting the pick too far may damage the LCD.”

Unfortunately, you only know you have inserted it too far when you have, and you start seeing little bubble veins form between the glass screen and the LCD.

The adhesive can be very stiff/hard, and if pushing through it can result in the pick plunging into the LCD when the adhesive finally gives way.

Take your time, use alot of heat, and if you need to try and push the pick in, try and do so in a slicing motion along the edge, use the wide edge, or hold the pick so that your finger will hit the edge of the screen before the pick tip will pass the bezel.

lucanos - 21/08/18

Adhesive strips are only 1mm wide on sides. Up to 5mm wide top and bottom. I used the Isclack. Screen seemed ok bending without breaking. Worth looking for a photo of the replacement adhesive strips so you know what you have to separate. Be extra careful at the lower right corner where the cables are.

ian cheong - 22/06/19

This is a failure of a guide as it doesn’t tell you to insert at a downward angle so you don’t potrude into the LCD… Now I have to spend more money to replace the screen as I pushed adhesive between the LCD and the screen even though I went no farther than a millimeter short of the screen...

Alec - 17/08/19

can you open the right side if the left is too cracked to use a suction cup on?

clark overhiser - 29/01/20

This guide needs amending urgently.

You MUST NOT put the pick or whatever you are using more than 2mm under the sides of the screen, or you will cut through the adhesive tape securing the backlight assembly to the LCD glass.

This will push adhesive into the viewable area of the LCD and cause the backlight assembly to no longer be secured against the LCD fully.

I now need a new screen.

This line below from the guide is absolutely INCORRECT and will ruin your expensive display:

”Don't insert the opening pick any deeper than the black bezel on the side of the display.”

The black bezel is 5mm to 6mm wide; you MUST NOT insert anything to that depth or you will destroy your display. 2mm maximum!

jamesqb2001 - 17/03/20

thanks. will take this into account for my repair

Adab Abu - 07/04/21

I too damaged my display because of this absolute nonsense (The German version, which I used, still had this INCORRECT portion in it). I can't believe how long it took iFixit to update this, even though people have been reporting this for years on end. Sadly iFixit still haven't updated a variety of other things that are still at the very least high risk instructions. I just messaged them the other day, but they don't seem to care about or understand the remaining issues that this guide has. At least they updated one of the most severe things, but they just plainly told me 'I'm wrong' about the rest. I liked iFixit it so far, and I've worked on a variety of (difficult) repairs - but this experience was a very huge let down.

Mac Stevenson -

A few thoughts after opening a number of Mini 4’s.

1) if the display is warm enough you can squeeze the digitizer and LCD back together after a minor incursion with the opening pick and it will reseal.

2) I’ve started going in at the top just to the right of the camera (I use an iFlex to get in then switch to a pick). Then I run down either side with my fingers choked up on the pick so there only a mm or 2 sticking out. Usually after running down one side, I can get the display open enough to get the pick in behind the LCD when I do the other side

Stow - 20/01/21

Step 4

Reheat and reapply the iOpener to the left edge for a few minutes.
Be careful not to overheat the iOpener during the repair procedure. Always wait at least ten minutes before reheating the iOpener.

If your iPad is cold, consider leaving the iOpener on for longer than 5 minutes. The aluminum housing is a very large thermally dissipating mass and will quickly cool off the glass and make you have to start over and wait the 10 minutes to reheat. There’s a very slim window in which you’re able to insert the pick into the glass adhesive before it solidifies once again. I’ve been fighting with it for like 20 minutes following these instructions and it’s not working. You really need to leave it for longer than just 5 minutes to get the back housing hot too.

Crystal S - 26/01/20

Heat is essential. I used a 3d printer’s heated set at 65 degrees. Chris Storer’s stip above saved me as you really need to let it sit for quite a while to soften the adhesive. Since I was doing a battery change, I heated both sides as the aluminum back is a huge heatsink that really sucks up the heat. Don’t try forcing it; if the suction cup isn’t pulling a gap in the screen, leave it on the heater for additional time.

garbage911garbage -

Love the 3d printer idea, I hadn’t thought of that! I have used a heat gun as well but you have to be very careful to not use too much heat. Also watch for inserting the pick too far, it is really easy to delaminate glass from the display!

russ -

Step 5

Insert a second opening pick alongside the first and slide the pick down along the edge of the iPad, releasing the adhesive as you go.
Throughout the rest of the procedure, if you encounter significant resistance while sliding the pick, stop and reheat the section you're working on. Applying too much pressure with the pick can crack the glass.

I have found that wedging a blue pry tool in between the frame and the glass can give you a better edge enough to slide the pick in.

Crystal S - 26/01/20

Step 6

Continue moving the opening pick down the side of the display to release the adhesive.
If the opening pick gets stuck in the adhesive, "roll" the pick along the side of the iPad, continuing to release the adhesive.

Step 7

Take the first pick you inserted and slide it up toward the top corner of the iPad.

Step 8

Reheat the iOpener and place it on the top edge of the iPad, over the front-facing camera.
Be careful not to overheat the iOpener during the repair procedure. Wait at least ten minutes before reheating the iOpener.
If you have a flexible iOpener, you can bend it to heat both the upper left corner and the upper edge at the same time.

Step 9

Slide the opening pick around the top left corner of the iPad to separate the adhesive.

Step 10

Slide the opening pick along the top edge of the iPad, stopping just before you reach the camera.
As you reach the front-facing camera, pull the pick out slightly and continue sliding it across the top edge.
Avoid sliding the opening pick over the front-facing camera, as you may smear adhesive onto the lens or damage the camera. The following steps will detail how to best avoid disturbing the front-facing camera.

Step 11

Leave the opening pick in the iPad slightly past the front-facing camera.
Take a second pick and insert it to the left of the camera, where the first pick just was. Slide it back to the corner to completely cut any remaining adhesive.
Leave the second pick in place to prevent the corner adhesive from re-sealing as it cools.

Step 12

Insert the previous pick deeper into the iPad and slide it away from the camera toward the corner.

Step 13

Leave the three picks in the corners of the iPad to prevent re-adhering of the front panel adhesive.
Reheat the iOpener and place it on the remaining long side of the iPad—along the volume and lock buttons.

Step 14

Insert a new opening pick and slide it down the right edge of the iPad, releasing the adhesive as you go.

Step 15

Continue sliding the opening pick down the right edge of the iPad, reheating the edge using an iOpener if necessary.
Be careful not to slice too deep near the bottom right corner, or you risk damaging the display cable.

Step 16

Leave the opening picks in place and reheat the iOpener.
Remember not to overheat the iOpener—no more than once every ten minutes.
Set the reheated iOpener on the home button end of the iPad and let it rest for a few minutes to soften the adhesive beneath the glass.

Step 17

Insert a new opening pick at the bottom right corner of the display, below the last opening pick you used to slice down the right edge.
Rotate the new pick around the lower right corner of the device.

Step 18

Slide the pick from the bottom right corner along the lower edge of the device. Stop about half an inch shy of the home button.

Step 19

Insert a final opening pick at the lower left corner of the iPad, directly below the existing one.

Step 20

Slide the pick around the lower left edge of the iPad.

Step 21

Continue sliding the pick at the lower left edge of the display toward the center of the iPad, until it is roughly half an inch from the home button.

Step 22

Twist the two picks at the top edge of the iPad to break up the last of the adhesive holding the display assembly in place.
Lift the display from the top edge to open the device.

"Twist the two picks at the top edge of the iPadTwist the two picks at the top edge of the iPad "

When I did this twisting motion, and I thought I was being gentle, one of the picks cracked nearly in half. That adhesive is very strong! I probably did not cut into it far enough before applying the twisting to open the screen.

jharrison -

Step 23

To avoid stressing any cables, hold the display assembly perpendicular to the body of the iPad until it is disconnected.
Remove the four 1.2 mm Phillips screws over the battery/display connector bracket.

What you need to do is move the display inboard up to the edge area of battery! That will relieve all the stress on the cables. Simply holding it straight up is not enough, especially later when you go back to reconnect the cables and the bracket over the connectors.

Fixrights - 30/04/19

Step 24

Remove the battery/display cable bracket.

Your bracket may look different to this. Mine had a black covering on the long edge being held between the fingers in this illustration. Same screws, same position, just a different color.

lucanos - 21/08/18

Is it the end of the world if the bracket is not reinstalled, will the device function normally or will it eventually have issues with the connectors coming loose following shock?

Thomas Langford - 31/07/19

Note that the left had side of the bracket hooks under a lip on the edge of the case. Always recommend to replace connector brackets. If you forget and leave it out, best to buy a new set of adhesive strips for the day when the connector comes loose.

cheongi - 27/05/21

Step 25

When disconnecting any press connectors from the logic board, be sure to lift the connector straight up to avoid ripping the socket off the board.
Use the flat tip of a spudger to disconnect the battery connector from its socket on the logic board.
Bend the battery connector ribbon cable up slightly to prevent it from making contact and powering on the iPad.

When i was starting to disconnect the lcd to the board i hit the black film and it lit and now even the new display wont display anything how to fix it? The black film near the lcd connector.

tyroon_jul27 - 28/09/19

Step 26

Use the pointed end of a spudger to disconnect the display data connector from its socket on the logic board.
Use the pointed end of a spudger to disconnect the digitizer cable connector from its socket on the logic board.
When reconnecting these, press down from one end of the connector to the other. If you press in the middle of the connector, you may bend it, causing damage or a poor connection.

Step 27

Remove the display assembly.
To reinstall your display assembly, you will need to replace the display adhesive. Use our display adhesive application guide to reapply your display adhesive and reseal your device.

Ich habe eine Bücherstütze benutzt um das Display in senkrechter Position zu halten, während ich die vier Schräubchen gelöst habe.. So zieht man nicht so an den Flexkabeln….!

Fridtjof Schüssler - 10/07/20

Because the 3-piece adhesive strips shown in the Display Adhesive Application Guide link were different from iPad Mini 4 Adhesive Strips (item code IF316-013-1), it wasn't easy to figure out the exact location of the bottom adhesive. It would be helpful to include a separate application guide or an additional picture showing the exact location of each strip) on the guide.

Christian Kim -

Step 28

Use the pointed tip of a spudger to flip up the retaining flap on the home button ZIF socket.

Step 29

Use tweezers to unplug the home button ribbon cable from the ZIF socket.
Continue peeling the ribbon cable up to the EMI shield.

Step 30

Use tweezers to lift the home button control hardware module off the display assembly.

Step 31

Use an opening pick to continue separating the home button ribbon cable from the display assembly.
If you use metal tools to separate this cable, you may scratch the iPad glass, removing some paint.

Step 32

Use a plastic opening tool to pry the home button bracket off the display assembly.
When replacing this bracket, it's recommended to use some high-bond tape to secure it.

The tip about the high-bond tape is great, but high-bond tape is something that should be mentioned at the beginning in the list of supplies we need. Because I have the whole thing taken apart, and now I’m told I need something that I don’t have on hand. So what am I supposed to do, just let everything sit around open, until I get to the store to see if they have some high-bond tape?

Robb M - 18/03/21

Step 33

Heat an iOpener and lay it over the lower edge of the front panel to soften the adhesive holding the home button in place.

what is another option if you dont have heat iopener

premal06 - 26/10/20

A hairdryer and much patience

BeLeFu - 26/10/20

Step 34

The home button is held in place by a thin, delicate, rubber gasket that is mildly adhered to the front panel.
Slowly push the home button up and out of the display assembly to separate the gasket from the front panel.
Be careful to not push the gasket past its tearing point. If the adhesive is adequately heated, it will separate from the front panel with some gentle pressure.

Step 35

Remove the home button assembly.

What is the proper way to reinstall the home button bracket?

chris crawford - 03/01/21

Step 36

Examine your replacement part, and your original display carefully to be sure they match.
Your replacement screen may be missing the sleep/wake sensor that is necessary for Smart Cover use. If you want to maintain functionality you will need to transfer the component.
Desolder the six solder pads from the lower left of the display to remove the sensor assembly cable.

This is an important step that’s missed by a lot of people resulting in negative reviews on replacement screens. Screen suppliers never mention this step or people would not buy from them. Save yourself a headache and time and buy a screen-digitizer with the sleep/wake sensor already soldered.

Thomas Tommy - 07/03/19

Is there any reason to replace this if you won’t use it? If I don’t move over the old sensor, will it still work? I’ve never soldered something this small and expensive before.

drumminherbie - 06/05/19

hab es ohne gemacht, da es auch keine lötstellen gibt - seither gibt es gar keine Standyby funktion mehr!

junk - 19/08/20

LÖSUNG: in den Systemeinstellungen “anzeige und Helligkeit” Sperren/entsperren deaktivieren.

junk - 19/08/20

Was meinst du damit “weil es keine Lötstellen gibt”? Sind auf deinem neuen Display keine Lötstellen gewesen wo du den Sensor hättest dran löten können?

Funktioniert dein Lösungsweg für dich noch: “anzeige und Helligkeit” Sperren/entsperren deaktivieren“ ?

Ich stehe vor der gleichen Herausforderung und will ungern löten und würde mich über eine Antwort freuen :/

eugen_roth - 17/04/21

This is something that should be mentioned in the beginning of the article, or even as a *warning, so people know what they’re getting into PRIOR to taking the entire iPad apart.

Robb M - 18/03/21

I replace my iPad mini 4 screen-digitizer and did not have to replace this sensor because it did not have one, but the new screen-digitizer came with the sleep/wake sensor in place. Small electronics needs careful and tedious work. Thanks iFixit for the instructions to fix my iPad. I have to mention that I am a technician from the old school.

wogriffith - 18/03/21

Conclusion

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

Author

Evan Noronha

Member since: 06/02/15

219088 Reputation

4 comments

Not only is that part in step 39 crucial to Smart-Cover function, but the regular sleep/wake function will not work if this isn’t transferred. Wish the replacements were shipped with this part attached, because soldering those tiny points is near impossible to do! Buyer/repairer beware.

Griffin Dampier - 02/01/18

Its better to have reassemble instruction, like where i am going to put the new adhesive?

Richard Genato - 23/06/18

The iFixIt replacement part did not come with adhesive, so I had to reuse the old adhesive that got pulled and torn during removal of the bad screen.

Also, the iFixIt replacement part does not come with the sleep/wake sensor (Step 39). Following my repair, the iPad is no longer capable of going to sleep (neither by the button on top nor through AssistiveTouch), so we have to resort to waiting for the lock screen timer to turn the screen off whenever we’re done using it. I feel the soldering that is required to maintain this functionality (I would imagine it would need a millimeter-diameter drop of solder on six contacts that are then pressed together with the transplanted part to form the bond without solder spilling onto a neighboring contact) is not within the capability of most casual repairers.

If I were to do this repair again, I would find a part that has fresh adhesive and the sleep/wake sensor already attached.

sonnyjohl - 27/05/19

My kit did come with the adhesive, but it's a little tricky to figure out (and there is an embedded link to the adhesive). Needs some more pictures/pointers about re-installing the home button, ended up with a gap in the adhesive near the home button. Also, tips on how to remove shattered glass? Otherwise, thanks for the tutorial, looks new.

CBrewington - 05/03/21