iPhone 1st Generation Display Assembly Replacement

Written By: iRobot
  • Comments: 49
iPhone 1st Generation Display Assembly Replacement

Difficulty

Very difficult

Steps

31

Time Required

45 minutes - 2 hours

Introduction

Cracked or faulty display? Replace it.

  1. kYQbjXiPj3QR52nQ

    • Insert a SIM card eject tool or paper clip into the hole next to the headphone jack.

    • Press down on the paper clip until the SIM card tray pops out.

    To remove the SIM, insert the end of a SIM eject tool or a small thin paper clip into the hole on the SIM tray. Press firmly and push the tool straight in until the tray pops out.

    http://support.apple.com/kb/ht1438

    neuronetix -

    I put the SIM card back in, and the slide to unlock does not work.

    dean -

    The only carrier to accept this iPhone was AT&T, they have discontinued use of that baseband. Nobody else in the world except for early renegade reverse engineers such as Geohot can get the device to work as a really old iPod no use unlocking the device because the technology inside the most recently OEM sold/refurbed iPhone 1st gen fails universally. You should only buy a screen assembly and snap it onto the back and call it a dummy phone and put it in a museum.

    Alexander Weinhart -

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    • Grasp the SIM card tray and slide it out of the iPhone.

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    • This image shows the two tabs and two catches located on the underside of the antenna cover. The two tabs at the top of the image must be pushed towards the black cover to release them.

    YOU NEED TO PUT THE OPENER TOOL BETWEEN THE ANTENNA COVER AND THE DOCK CONNECTOR FIRST, THEN YOU WILL HAVE SPACE TO OPEN IT.. MY 2 CENTS

    riversde -

    You better lay off the caps.

    lol SPLAAT -

    Very hard to remove and the plastic is very fragile

    Take care when removing

    miguelvillela -

    When you get stuck follow this guy guide

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sYHnr89HM...

    miguelb -

    Great Guide.

    My dad banged his iPhone in a table after arguing with someone and got the aluminum cover next to the volume control bent in such a way as it got the volume control stuck in the max position. I used this guide to remove all parts out of the way so I can get the shape of that region and corrected it the "Han Solo" Way. It was an excellent opportunity to get the phone cleaned up as well

    The biggest problem I had was screwing some of the screws back. The screwdriver that I had was not magnetized, so I used a little bit of superglue to bind the screw and the screwdriver until I had it screwed tightly.

    The second biggest problem I had was that I lost a screw twice, but was lucky enough to find it quickly on the floor next to me.

    I am very happy as I waited more than a month to get the confidence to get this iPhone repaired.

    lantinian -

    how do i know what part is in my phone? There are 2...

    Ivanfrost -

    Quote from Ivanfrost:

    how do i know what part is in my phone? There are 2...

    Once you have the phone apart and have gently unplugged the power ribbon, read the part number on the ribbon. If it's in the 821- family, you can safely use corresponding 821 headphone assembly. If it is the other part number, use the newer replacement. Many sites list both parts and let you order the appropriately numbered part. Otherwise (if you order the wrong part) it won't work or you'll have to [unnecessarily] hack the part to get it to work.

    Steve -

    Quote from Steve:

    Once you have the phone apart and have gently unplugged the power ribbon, read the part number on the ribbon. If it's in the 821- family, you can safely use corresponding 821 headphone assembly. If it is the other part number, use the newer replacement. Many sites list both parts and let you order the appropriately numbered part. Otherwise (if you order the wrong part) it won't work or you'll have to [unnecessarily] hack the part to get it to work.

    I bought the wrong one.... how do I hack it?

    Rune Smistad -

    My iPhone is very first model. It doesn't have any of the four tabs shown.

    gameplayer2 -

    The very first model does not have the four tabs. To open this version, use a plastic opener tool and push it into the middle of the tiny space between the rectangular dock connector and the antenna cover. Move the tool to the side and push it in a little deeper. A small gap should open up at the bottom of the antenna cover, where it meets the metal. Continue using the plastic opener tool in there, pushing it in and forcing it around the edge so that the antenna cover further separates. Then repeat this on the other side. To me it seems like a very brittle piece of plastic, so be careful. But now that it's loose at the bottom you can lift it with your fingers and work it off.

    Alexander Ljungberg -

  4. jUHvjBbogjKT4LWn

    • Be sure to slide the metal spudger between the dock connector and the antenna cover, and not into the dock connector itself.

    • Insert a metal spudger into the slot between the dock connector and the antenna cover. Gently pry up near the two tabs to create a small gap between the antenna cover and the silver front bezel.

    Take heed to the note about getting the spudger between the dock connector and the cover. The dock connector is black plastic, as is the antenna cover, so it's difficult to see any gap between them. Putting the spudger between the metal shielding of the connector and the plastic is incorrect.

    Michael Lance -

    Rens' duct tape technique (see comment in step 6 section below) worked very well. No need to risk breaking the antenna with a spudger.

    jbshoe -

  5. IbJomOddGpq5nMuJ

    • Insert an iPod opening tool in the gap between the antenna cover and the front bezel. The wedge of the tool should be pointing towards the antenna cover. Slide the tool around the corner and up until you reach the metal backing.

    • Repeat the same procedure on the other side of the dock connector.

  6. KexceVTpHPS2SSEy

    • Grasp the antenna cover on either side and slide it up and away from the iPhone. This requires some force. If it does not come free, ensure that the antenna cover is lifted up enough to free the catches.

    It was released very hard on my iPhone 2G but the problem comes when i have to put it back.

    It remains a little more space between the dock and the Antena cover and maybe that's because the two tabs between the mic and the speaker are not entered under the gold board?

    If someone knows please tell me how to put it back.

    Thanks

    infomihai -

    There is a very easy way to remove the cover by simply sticking duct tape on it and pulling the tape away of the phone.

    It will leave no marks and it didn't damage my antenna cover as much(my "chinese" repair tools were to weak).

    rens -

    Thanks, using the tape was quick and easy, no damage at all.

    Roeland -

    Brilliant. Works perfectly. 20 seconds of work.

    koenatclaes -

  7. 2hJwIgKUTkSgmJjG

    • Remove the three Phillips #00 screws securing the rear panel to the iPhone.

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    • Getting the iPhone open is a challenging feat, so don't get discouraged. Take a deep breath and make sure you have plenty of time to get the job done.

    • The small square hole is the location to insert the dental pick in the next step.

    Be sure to use the square hole, more to the inside, not the one between the outer shell and the little piece of metal. The Outer shell is attached to the metal.

    Gyuri Ordody -

    You guys show this is vanilla dessert. And it's more difficult than building a DIY space shuttle. I wonder why Apple did the iPhone so problematic to disassemble. It's just the battery!

    Sebastian Di Mateo -

    I've seen some instructions recommending using a knife to open up a space between the back cover and trim. Using the dental pick as shown here, it is very easy to break off the screw attachment near the edge of the cover.

    Bill Parquet -

    Agree with Bill, I did break off one of the screw attachments. In retrospect, using a small putty knife between the cover and battery (which I'm replacing anyways) to apply force against the cover while prying at the hole would have helped.

    Michael Lance -

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    • Start removing the rear panel on the side with the buttons.

    • Slide the dental pick completely into the square hole. You may need to wiggle the tool and apply a good amount of force to get it to go all the way.

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    • Pry up the rear panel by pulling the dental pick counterclockwise in a quick motion. Apply force perpendicular to the plane of the display assembly. You may be afraid to go fast, but going slowly is more likely to bend the case.

    ugh. i totally mangled my case. snapped off the 2 outer screw brackets... broke my dental pick, too. and my small screwdriver. thank goodness for craftsman tools! ;)

    i was pretty disheartened by the whole thing, but i keep it in a hard shell anyway so it's not that noticeable.

    umopapisdn -

    Like others - this is where I am stuck. No dental pick, so I search for alternatives. Good the get reminded - if I mangle the case too, hey, my speck cover will hide the scars!

    Spikey2 -

    What material is that dental pick made of? Adamantium?

    Sebastian Di Mateo -

    I could NOT get this method to work. I tried three different picks and all bent when I tried to lever them this way. I did break one of the frame screws off in the process as well. I ended up going back to my old standby... The Exacto Knife and a 1/8 inch flat head screw driver... I used the exacto to get the flat head started, then worked my way up one side toward the top of the phone slowly and carefully wiggling the screw driver until it popped open on that side. Then I did the same to the other. That worked well for me. These plastic openers and dental picks just bent and broke on me. GOOD LUCK. My Advice: Get a 3G or 3GS, I can break one down in under a minute!

    Adam Susong -

    I didn't have a dental pick. I used a narrow, flexible hobby putty knife. The button side edge popped right off. The blank side required me to slowly wiggle along, continually pushing the putty knife up to 2" to detach each of the clips.

    dennishodge -

    I can’t get past here… I ruined 3 screwdrivers trying to do this, but failed

    Nick75704 -

  11. M1WJSCuYr5oFd1l5

    • Use a spudger to free the rear panel from the iPhone along the corner and top.

  12. sLsggipm4ET4AhNr

    • Repeat the same procedure on the other side of the iPhone. Slide the dental pick completely into the square hole. You may need to wiggle the tool and apply a good amount of force to get it to go all the way.

    wich dental pick should I use? I´d bought some but they twist or didn´t fit on the scare... thx in advance and really good guide!!

    Chad720 -

    I know this is old, but I've had some success. Rather than the dental pick, which I bent too, I ground down a very small "L" bend hex wrench. Worked like a champ. Also: If you have an iPhone 4 and are looking to use the microSIM in your 1st gen iPhone with the use of a microSIM adaptor... DO NOT put the empty adaptor in the SIM slot. That's what I did and had to dismantle the phone to get it repair the SIM contacts.

    tthomashardie -

    Actually, the "button" side released fairly easily and I was able to loosen the top end with a plastic spudger. However, the remaining side was a @#!@! and the process of popping it off caused the protruding screw lug to break off the internal guide, which itself came off seconds later. Oof! While the side guide was easily glued back in, the lug ultimately became a casualty since it was too small and unweildy to SuperGlue™ back on. But, as Meat Loaf wisely sings, "two out of three ain't bad." The 'phone can live w/o one screw and possibly two if the center lug remains.

    turkeyneck -

    I didn't have a dental pick so i used a very small high quality allen key which worked perfectly. The back cover is interference fit to the front bezel and i found with the correct lever action it separated easily.

    Bigkarkus -

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    • Pry up the rear panel by pulling the dental pick clockwise in a quick motion. Apply force perpendicular to the plane of the display assembly. You may be afraid to go fast, but going slowly is more likely to bend the case.

    • The rear panel is still attached to the iPhone by the headphone jack cable, so don't entirely remove the rear panel from the iPhone just yet.

    I've seen some guides that recommend a technique for prying up on the center of the case. if you do so, it is easy to accidentally damage the battery if you pry in the wrong direction.

    Bill Parquet -

  14. ntHQ2PA2WutVDlhq

    • Make sure the phone is off before disconnecting the headphone jack cable.

    • Use a spudger to disconnect the headphone jack cable from the logic board.

    You need to stick the end in, and it detaches if you push it upwards.

    Gyuri Ordody -

    A picture of what the dental pick is poking at would be useful inside the back case. If you get on the wrong side of the frame rail you can break the ear where the screw goes pretty easily with that pick (yes it appears to be titanium). Guess that is why only the plastic pick was part of the toolset, but used a metal one as depicted and ran into this. As you say this is challenging, and more pictures are better.

    edl -

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    • Peel up the orange tape securing the white antenna cable to the side of the iPhone.

  16. EyKOIOaIBnbLHKCx

    • Use a spudger to disconnect the two antenna cables from the communications board. Apple used a small dab of glue on these connections, which may make removing the antenna connections harder.

    STEP 16: Be EXTREMELY CAREFUL when removing the antenna connectors. The joint between the super tiny wires and the tiny connector is fragile. The wire may snap off the connector! Re-soldering is futile, as the wire appears to have a ground sheath.

    tbird -

  17. TycWRpJ6p24SgkW1

    • Remove the following 3 screws:

    • One Phillips #00 screw securing the logic board to the iPhone near the camera.

    • Two Phillips #00 screws, one on either corner of the logic board.

  18. esCPwfAFkvaSNPAL

    • Use a spudger to disconnect the camera connector.

    • Lift the camera out of the iPhone.

  19. URCCYCMqRqhEhTPn

    • Working from the edge opposite the battery connectors, insert a spudger between the battery and the plastic frame and pry up on the battery. It is attached to the casing with an adhesive, but should slowly come free.

    • Leave the battery resting slightly out of its housing, but be sure not to put too much pressure on the battery wires as the solder joints break easily.

  20. IxaYChoydWorQhai

    • Slide a spudger beneath the logic board on the side opposite the battery connector and pry up slightly. Don't lift up too far, because there are still four attached connectors on the bottom of the logic board.

  21. xSGwKNSRk1jWJDs2

    • In a similar manner, slide a spudger beneath the logic board where the camera was. Again, don't lift up too far yet as there are still four attached connectors on the bottom of the logic board.

  22. 55kYwajgybIqGdho

    • Lift up the logic board slightly and slide a spudger beneath the logic board to disconnect the display ribbon cable.

    • After freeing the first connector, slide the spudger further towards the battery and the center of the iPhone to disconnect the speaker connector.

  23. PKXQtYpdl24uFghE

    • Go to the other side of the logic board and use a spudger to disconnect the touch sensor cable on the under side of the logic board.

    putting this back is incredibly hard, if you can do not let the connecters come off the back panel, and when putting back together you can just snap them back if you are lucky, because putting it back this step might take you more than a hour

    info90 -

  24. QVTLadnsAZsug2qi

    • Slide a spudger beneath the black locking bar and pry up to rotate the bar 90 degrees (the bar is already rotated in the picture).

  25. WEDPe3cQibeCLkmS

    • Hold both the battery and the logic board assembly and slide both parts away from the orange antenna and out of the iPhone.

    Tips for reinstalling the mainboard:

    * De-solder the battery from the mainboard once you have it out - it will make it much easier to reinstall.

    * When you go to put it back together, remove the kapton (orange) tape over the 'S' shaped ribbon cable, and carefully unstick it from the metal plate.

    * Start by ensuring the ZIF socket's clip is open, then work re-setting the 3 connectors at the top of the iPhone while holding the main board at a 45° angle to the front.

    * Then pull the S shaped ribbon cable out and gently and place it into its slot being careful to make sure its lined up perfectly straight and close the socket's clip.

    * Screw it all down and stick the S shaped connector back down with kapton tape if you have it, otherwise normal tape will do.

    * Re-solder the battery back on and stick it back down into place.

    annon201 -

    I think this is genius.

    spacec0w -

  26. HCvSWoMsYooLUlff

    • Remove the three Phillips #00 screws securing the front bezel to the iPhone.

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    • Rotate the iPhone 90 degrees and remove the two Phillips #00 screws from the bottom of the iPhone.

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    • Rotate the iPhone 90 degrees and remove the three Phillips #00 screws from the side of the iPhone.

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    • Rotate the iPhone 90 degrees and remove the two Phillips #00 screws from the top of the iPhone.

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    • Lift the front bezel away from the iPhone.

  31. DFHBgDcgd3eropKG

    • Display assembly remains.

    NOTE: If you are an individual who is replacing just the Digitizer and Glass screen; there is one more step to the process. (which is the most difficult)

    Follow this video http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X1z0pw2VK...

    starting at 4mins and 14 seconds (4:14)

    Lee -

    How i take my broken wifi cable off?

    Ville -

    Folks! If you are changing the whole Displayunit(within Digitizer and Glas) TAKE CARE!!!!! Nowhere (even not in the linked video by Lee above) is explained, that BEFORE lifting the lower side of the old display you have to seperate the small plastic slice hodling the home button!!! I followed the video, carefully concentrated on the four wraparound-cables at the top. Then, after removing the unit, I detected, that a supermall flexcable going to the homebutton was ripped off!!!

    You may say, ok, you have JB, theres a soft workaround using the iPhone without home button. I will try. Probblem: The Flex Cable was kind of an T-Piece, going from left to right on the board, and the "T" going up to the home butten. So there is more interruption than just the homebutton.... i will try...

    I am really angry.... Why did the not say in the video "and before lifitng the display unit, seperate the plastice slice holding the home button from the display unit, carfully, it is glued and almost no Millimeters room to move, otherwise you will break a small flexcable, not seeable before, because hidden by the displayunit itself!!!!...."

    rafa74 -

    If you got a new display/digitizer make sure that the grill in front of the speaker/ear is there. Mine didn't have one, I first noticed it when the phone was assembled.

    If you have to assemble the phone again, it it easier to connect the 90 degree cable as the last cable in step 22-24. It gives you more room to connect the other cables first.

    henrik hansen -

    If you have are looking for a guide to replace digitizer only and the youtube video above is too quick: http://www.portatronics.com/guide/iPhone...

    Start from Step 19 after you have completed ifixit's 31st step.

    Sebastian -

Conclusion

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

Author

iRobot

Member since: 25/09/09

0 Reputation

4 comments

I'll second rafa74's comment: be VERY careful about putting too much stress on the TINY cable that connects the Home button to the rest of its assembly! I ripped mine as well. You have to slowly separate the Home button's plastic sub-assembly from the display module itself (with a kitchen knife, for example). Otherwise the moment you start parting the display module from the mid-board, you run the risk of tearing the Home button cable... it's far too easy.

ptfini -

This guide neglects to point out some very important things at the end of the removal process. For example, that the glass is glued to the phone, or which connectors have to come with the display assembly on the way out.

offscreenmodulation -

This is my first opening session and sounds great !!! Thanks I fix it

Xtophe Raillon -

I swapped motherboard + battery between 2 original iPhone models, but now on one the touchscreen won’t work even if the connector is attached. The flat looks PERFECT, that’s what bothers me the most, the connector looks also greet, same goes for the “slot” on the motherboard. What is going on? I needed to literarily detach the display assembly from the mid frame, tough, to also swap the 2 displays assemblies (long story). Do the touch for some reason won’t work until I put the bezel and all the screws? Thanks

Riccardo iDex -