iPhone 1st Generation Rear Panel Replacement

Step 1

Insert a SIM card eject tool or paper clip into the hole next to the headphone jack.
Press down on the paper clip until the SIM card tray pops out.

To remove the SIM, insert the end of a SIM eject tool or a small thin paper clip into the hole on the SIM tray. Press firmly and push the tool straight in until the tray pops out.

http://support.apple.com/kb/ht1438

neuronetix -

I put the SIM card back in, and the slide to unlock does not work.

dean - 26/02/15

The only carrier to accept this iPhone was AT&T, they have discontinued use of that baseband. Nobody else in the world except for early renegade reverse engineers such as Geohot can get the device to work as a really old iPod no use unlocking the device because the technology inside the most recently OEM sold/refurbed iPhone 1st gen fails universally. You should only buy a screen assembly and snap it onto the back and call it a dummy phone and put it in a museum.

Alexander Weinhart - 24/01/19

Step 2

Grasp the SIM card tray and slide it out of the iPhone.

Step 3

This image shows the two tabs and two catches located on the underside of the antenna cover. The two tabs at the top of the image must be pushed towards the black cover to release them.

YOU NEED TO PUT THE OPENER TOOL BETWEEN THE ANTENNA COVER AND THE DOCK CONNECTOR FIRST, THEN YOU WILL HAVE SPACE TO OPEN IT.. MY 2 CENTS

riversde -

You better lay off the caps.

lol SPLAAT - 02/08/16

Very hard to remove and the plastic is very fragile

Take care when removing

miguelvillela -

When you get stuck follow this guy guide

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sYHnr89HM...

miguelb -

Great Guide.

My dad banged his iPhone in a table after arguing with someone and got the aluminum cover next to the volume control bent in such a way as it got the volume control stuck in the max position. I used this guide to remove all parts out of the way so I can get the shape of that region and corrected it the "Han Solo" Way. It was an excellent opportunity to get the phone cleaned up as well

The biggest problem I had was screwing some of the screws back. The screwdriver that I had was not magnetized, so I used a little bit of superglue to bind the screw and the screwdriver until I had it screwed tightly.

The second biggest problem I had was that I lost a screw twice, but was lucky enough to find it quickly on the floor next to me.

I am very happy as I waited more than a month to get the confidence to get this iPhone repaired.

lantinian -

how do i know what part is in my phone? There are 2...

Ivanfrost -

Quote from Ivanfrost:

how do i know what part is in my phone? There are 2...

Once you have the phone apart and have gently unplugged the power ribbon, read the part number on the ribbon. If it's in the 821- family, you can safely use corresponding 821 headphone assembly. If it is the other part number, use the newer replacement. Many sites list both parts and let you order the appropriately numbered part. Otherwise (if you order the wrong part) it won't work or you'll have to [unnecessarily] hack the part to get it to work.

Steve -

Quote from Steve:

Once you have the phone apart and have gently unplugged the power ribbon, read the part number on the ribbon. If it's in the 821- family, you can safely use corresponding 821 headphone assembly. If it is the other part number, use the newer replacement. Many sites list both parts and let you order the appropriately numbered part. Otherwise (if you order the wrong part) it won't work or you'll have to [unnecessarily] hack the part to get it to work.

I bought the wrong one.... how do I hack it?

Rune Smistad -

My iPhone is very first model. It doesn't have any of the four tabs shown.

gameplayer2 -

The very first model does not have the four tabs. To open this version, use a plastic opener tool and push it into the middle of the tiny space between the rectangular dock connector and the antenna cover. Move the tool to the side and push it in a little deeper. A small gap should open up at the bottom of the antenna cover, where it meets the metal. Continue using the plastic opener tool in there, pushing it in and forcing it around the edge so that the antenna cover further separates. Then repeat this on the other side. To me it seems like a very brittle piece of plastic, so be careful. But now that it's loose at the bottom you can lift it with your fingers and work it off.

Alexander Ljungberg -

Step 4

Be sure to slide the metal spudger between the dock connector and the antenna cover, and not into the dock connector itself.
Insert a metal spudger into the slot between the dock connector and the antenna cover. Gently pry up near the two tabs to create a small gap between the antenna cover and the silver front bezel.

Take heed to the note about getting the spudger between the dock connector and the cover. The dock connector is black plastic, as is the antenna cover, so it's difficult to see any gap between them. Putting the spudger between the metal shielding of the connector and the plastic is incorrect.

Michael Lance -

Rens' duct tape technique (see comment in step 6 section below) worked very well. No need to risk breaking the antenna with a spudger.

jbshoe - 01/01/16

Step 5

Insert an iPod opening tool in the gap between the antenna cover and the front bezel. The wedge of the tool should be pointing towards the antenna cover. Slide the tool around the corner and up until you reach the metal backing.
Repeat the same procedure on the other side of the dock connector.

Step 6

Grasp the antenna cover on either side and slide it up and away from the iPhone. This requires some force. If it does not come free, ensure that the antenna cover is lifted up enough to free the catches.

It was released very hard on my iPhone 2G but the problem comes when i have to put it back.

It remains a little more space between the dock and the Antena cover and maybe that's because the two tabs between the mic and the speaker are not entered under the gold board?

If someone knows please tell me how to put it back.

Thanks

infomihai -

There is a very easy way to remove the cover by simply sticking duct tape on it and pulling the tape away of the phone.

It will leave no marks and it didn't damage my antenna cover as much(my "chinese" repair tools were to weak).

rens -

Thanks, using the tape was quick and easy, no damage at all.

Roeland -

Brilliant. Works perfectly. 20 seconds of work.

koenatclaes -

Step 7

Remove the three Phillips #00 screws securing the rear panel to the iPhone.

Step 8

Getting the iPhone open is a challenging feat, so don't get discouraged. Take a deep breath and make sure you have plenty of time to get the job done.
The small square hole is the location to insert the dental pick in the next step.
Insert the pointed end of a heavy-duty spudger into the space between the gray metal bar and the rear panel. Pry the panel up enough until you can get the tip of the iPod opening tool into the seam between the front bezel and rear panel.

Step 9

Start removing the rear panel on the side with the buttons.
Slide the dental pick completely into the square hole. You may need to wiggle the tool and apply a good amount of force to get it to go all the way.

Dental pick??? which other tool can be used to replace it? thanks!

FanMac -

Where to buy one ?

can have a better picture how it looks like

elpaso750 -

Quote from soporte:

Dental pick??? which other tool can be used to replace it? thanks!

At Lowes (and probably Home Depot) you can buy a set of 4 tools from Kobalt for about $6. They look like small icepicks with differently bent tips. They are much stronger than the dental picks you get at the local chain drugstore.

phedin -

Step 10

Pry up the rear panel by pulling the dental pick counterclockwise in a quick motion. Apply force perpendicular to the plane of the display assembly. You may be afraid to go fast, but going slowly is more likely to bend the case.

Step 11

Use a spudger to free the rear panel from the iPhone along the corner and top.
The rear panel is still attached to the iPhone by the headphone jack cable, so don't entirely remove the rear panel from the iPhone just yet.

Step 12

Repeat the same procedure on the other side of the iPhone. Slide the dental pick completely into the square hole. You may need to wiggle the tool and apply a good amount of force to get it to go all the way.

Step 13

Pry up the rear panel by pulling the dental pick counterclockwise in a quick motion. Apply force perpendicular to the plane of the display assembly. You may be afraid to go fast, but going slowly is more likely to bend the case.
The rear panel is still attached to the iPhone by the headphone jack cable, so don't entirely remove the rear panel from the iPhone just yet.

Step 14

Make sure the phone is off before disconnecting the headphone jack cable.
Use a spudger to disconnect the headphone jack cable from the logic board.

Step 15

Remove the two Phillips #00 screws securing the on/off switch to the rear panel.

Step 16

Remove the following 3 screws:
Two Phillips #00 screws securing the vibrator to the rear panel.
One larger head and longer Phillips #00 screw securing the headphone jack to the rear panel.

Step 17

Grasp the metal screw plate attached to the on/off switch and lift slightly up and away from the rear panel. The button should come with the cable.
Gently peel up the on/off switch ribbon cable. Be sure to pull near where the ribbon cable is glued to the rear panel.

The on/off switch metal plate is attached to the case with two tiny screws that must be removed first

ifixit -

Step 18

The headphone jack is slightly recessed into the rear panel. First slide the headphone jack away from its housing and then lift it up slightly (only 1/4 inch or 1/2 centimeter) so that it is no longer in the rear panel.

Step 19

Grasp the headphone jack at the tip and gently lift up, pulling the vibrator out of the rear panel.

Step 20

Remove the two Phillips #00 screws securing the silent/ring switch to the rear panel.
Pry off the metal backing with the screw holes and save for securing the replacement switch.

Step 21

Grasp the silent/ring switch and lift it up to reveal the screw beneath.

I got everything out & back in, but now my silent switch is really inconsistent & so is the volume buttons. Anyone else run into this.

tjpoch -

Does reinstallation of the vibrator motor get it back working. If not, does the Gen 1 replacement headphone jack include a new vibrator motor?

BrooklynTed -

Quote from BrooklynTed:

Does reinstallation of the vibrator motor get it back working. If not, does the Gen 1 replacement headphone jack include a new vibrator motor?

Yes, i have bought two off ebay, they come with the silent switch, volume button, power, vibrate and headphone jack, they cost between $10-$15

Metalocalypse -