Amazon Fire 5th Generation Screen and LCD Replacement

Geschrieben von: Amber Bunch

Kommentare: 55

Amazon Fire 5th Generation Screen and LCD Replacement

Schwierigkeitsgrad

Difficult

Schritte

Zeitaufwand

2 Stunden

Einleitung

Quite often the screen is the first thing to break on a tablet and the LCD panel is actually what senses the touch of the user as well as displays the images of the screen.

In order to perform this replacement you will need to use heat tools such as either the iOpener or a high heat gun so be aware of how to properly use these tools as well as proper safety gear to prevent injury or damage to the device.

Werkzeuge

Schritt 1

Ensure that your device is turned off.
Remove any micro-SD card that may be installed in the Fire. Failure to do so could damage the micro-SD card itself or the micro-SD card reader on the Fire.
While holding the device firmly, wedge the iFixit Opening Tool into the crease along the outer edge of the device (as shown in the image).
Slowly, grind the iFixit Opening Tool into the crease along the outer edges of the device until the entire back cover loosens.
Then, remove the back cover from the device.

Schritt 2

Pry the speaker from the case using the iFixit Opening Tool.
Lift the speaker up from the device to remove the speaker wires from their groove in the case.
Be careful not to pull the speaker wires from the motherboard.

Schritt 3

Desolder the speaker wires from the motherboard.
iFixit has a helpful guide explaining how to solder and desolder here: Wie man Lötverbindungen herstellt und entlötet

This step is completely unnecessary. The cords don't get in the way of the rest of the procedure. Feel free to disregard this step.

Jacob Dayley - 10/01/17

Schritt 4

The battery connector is located in the upper left corner of the Amazon Fire battery pack.
To disconnect the battery connector, use angled ESD precision tweezers to lift the cables up and out of their socket.
Make sure you pull the battery connector cables themselves out and not the actual socket. Doing this step incorrectly could result in breaking the connector entirely.

Schritt 5

Use a PH0 size Phillips screwdriver head to unscrew the five 2 mm screws on the motherboard. These screws are circled with red in the given image.
Ensure that you keep track of these screws once removed.

I found that PH00 worked better, but overall very good guide.

Gabriel Hassebrock - 08/01/19

Schritt 6

The LCD- Motherboard connector cable has a protective overlay that you must peel back with precision tweezers in order to expose the actual connector.
Gently pull down on the connector cable using precision tweezers in order to disconnect the cable.

Broke it at this part

N EO - 09/10/19

Pull black tab at connector upwards first, then flex cable can be pulled easily.

Anthony Bacenet - 19/03/20

YES. This detail right here NEEDS to be put in the main section. I did not see these comments until after finishing the job. I went to youtube to watch other videos to find out about the release action.

Ian - 27/08/20

Schritt 7

The LCD Digitizer on the Amazon Fire tablet has a locking cable connector that holds it in place on the motherboard.

The LCD Digitizer on the Amazon Fire tablet has a locking cable connector that holds it in place on the motherboard.
To remove the cable, use the iFixit Opening Tool to unlock the LCD Digitizer cable connector.
Once the wire connector is removed, use the iFixit Opening Tool to pry the entire LCD Digitizer away from the motherboard.
Remove any tape that may be covering the connector.

Schritt 8

The volume and power buttons must both be repositioned in order to remove the motherboard.

The volume and power buttons must both be repositioned in order to remove the motherboard.
To reposition the power and volume buttons, use the iFixit Opening Tool to pull the plastic casing upwards. Then, remove the casing completely.
Make sure that both the volume and the power buttons are free from the plastic casing before separating the motherboard from its case.
Be very careful when repositioning the volume buttons, since the fragile digitizer ribbon cable runs from the motherboard to the digitizer right next to the volume buttons. It is very easy to damage the ribbon cable while working in this area.

Schritt 9

The rear facing camera wire connector must be disconnected in order to remove the motherboard.
To remove the rear facing wire connector, insert the iFixit Opening Tool beneath the connector and wedge it upwards.

Schritt 10

Position the iFixit Opening Tool beneath the motherboard and pull upwards to remove the motherboard from its case.
Please handle the motherboard with gloves because skin oils can damage the connections on the board.

Thanks for the information, very useful. Does anyone know how the power button works? wiring? I am thinking of replacing it with a small push button. Mine broke. Thanks in advance, Jorge

Jorge Daetz - 10/01/19

Schritt 11

Because heat is required to remove the screen and LCD, it is advisable to remove the battery entirely as well.
It is important to be very careful and use little force in this step. Too much force can damage the battery. A damaged battery can lead to an electrical fire or explosion of the battery.
Carefully and slowly work the iFixit Opening Tool down the edge of the battery pack. Angle the tool to pry it up.
When you have successfully lifted the battery pack up on one side or corner, carefully wedge the iFixit Opening Tool under the pack about 1/2" and work around the rest of the sides.
Be careful not to bend the battery pack.

I am not understanding why the battery needs to be removed if you are only replacing the glass. I’m sure there is a good reason. Could you explain?

Marchair McNeil -

The LCD and digitizer are adhered to the plastic frame of the tablet. Heat is what is needed to soften the adhesive, via an iOpener, heat gun, hair dryer, or hot plate LCD remover. However, heat can cause batteries to be damaged or catch fire. So it is advisable to remove the battery first.

blackbear847 -

When I did this repair, I was able to get the battery out, but the corners were quite bent. So I used a glue stick like a rolling pin and carefully rolled the bend out of the battery.

blackbear847 -

Schritt 12

Use a heating tool such as an iOpener or Heat gun around the edges of the Amazon Fire's glass screen. The iOpener may take longer to use. However, a heat gun can warp the plastic if used incorrectly.
As you heat the edges, use a separator tool such as a guitar pick to lift the glass panel up and hold it up as you work around the device.
Do not use a separation tool on the top edge of the device where the front camera would be; the digitizer cable is located in this location and can easily be severed. Instead, work in a U shape until you have 3 sides lifted from the frame
Be patient with this step because it can be very time consuming and remember to use proper safety gear when using a heating device.

!#^&@@ off, You motherlovers failed to mention the ribbon cable on the left side connected to the LCD. I worked the 3 sides exactly like the directions and avoiding the top edge. But my LCD ribbon cable to Digitizer was ruined as I folded the 3 removed edges to the top…..Straight Bull…Directions should have stated that…You should have mentioned to only remove bottom and right side(being careful to avoid ribbon cable to the leftside while removing the screen) instead of working in a U. That's false info…Somebody owes me an LCD.

Don Moon -

Schritt 13

Note the digitizer cable coming through to the back as it may be hard to see! Carefully thread this piece through its slot and separate the glass panel from the device frame.
If you are simply trying to replace a broken screen, you may stop here in this guide and reverse the steps to reassemble your Amazon Fire.
Try to preserve as much of the double-sided foam adhesive as possible, since you will need it to reinstall the replacement screen.

What about the 2 magnets in the plastic frame they came out when pulling out digitizer not sure if they have a specific way of going back in. Help plz

David Miller - 27/08/17

Schritt 14

To remove the LCD panel, flip the device over and detach the LCD digitizer cable from the frame if they have become stuck together.
You can use the iFixit Opening Tool to separate the LCD panel from the adhesive and it should come out of place with ease.

Abschluss

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

Tinte & Feder

Amber Bunch

Mitglied seit: 10/02/16

1369 Reputation

44 Kommentare

So....... what's that Glass panel part number?

Aaron Miller - 05/09/16

Where can I get the Digitizer? It appears to me (from your guide) the screens (Digitizer and LCD) DO in fact, separate. It does seem odd to me, from being in the industry for so long, that the digitizer has a polarizer attached to it. That polarizer is usually adhered to the LCD screen and that usually suggests that the repair part would call for a screen assembly.. Not just a digitizer. Can you attach some more pictures of the digitizer and the connector itself to clarify? Also, If you know where to order the part domestically and can you post a link? Thank you! Great guide BTW.

interstone696 - 20/10/16

If the speaker and wire (twisted red&white) are removed from the case (step 2 above), then you won't need to desolder the connection to the motherboard (step 3 above). Just leave it soldered and remove with motherboard (step 10 above).

Terry Roberts - 03/11/16

....or desolder connection and leave the speaker & wire in the case, if you like to "play with powertools?" ;-)

Terry Roberts - 03/11/16

Why remove the battery? It was by far the most tricky operation and exposed the battery to damage prying it out with a flat tool. Any puncture of the plastic jacket qoulds mean instant death to the battery and if any metal tool in contact, a fire hazard. BTW where do you get a replacement digitized for the 7inch 5th generation Kindle?

graham foulkes - 03/11/16

Ordered mine from here: http://www.ebay.com/usr/guan_lcd took about 2.5 weeks, maybe more. Replaced my digitizer following this guide and the other one on this website. Everything went fine until I turned the tablet back on and I ended up with a rainbow haze over the screen. Screen is responsive like new, but I really can't see anything, Hope I didn't get a defective component

Angello - 21/12/16

The rainbow haze is likely due to leaving the plastic protection from the inside of the replacement screen. It can be difficult to see. I had the same problem but levered up the screen and it was sorted. The screen light is refracted by the plastic coating I assume.

Andy Sampson - 23/08/17

PS: There's foam padding under the original digitizer, the replacement (same serial number) doesn't have the same foam padding, and it does't come with adhesive strips

Angello - 21/12/16

hallo,

für Amazon Fire 7 5. Generation ist die Seriennummer SV98LN auf dem Gehäuse angegeben. Doch danach gekaufte Digitizer funktionieren nicht in jdem Fall in einem solchen Gerät. Kann ich alo nicht nach dieser Model-Nr. kaufen?

Peter Faulstich - 17/10/19

where can i order the lcd screen

Exantus lala - 28/01/17

Do you really have to desolder the speaker wires?

Nocturnal Podcasts - 08/02/17

hi, just changed my cracked screen, I removed all the sticky adhesive glue from the plastic frame and put the new screen down, but sadly what do I need to help keep it in place? the new screen didnt come with any adhesive :( many thanks

mark - 25/03/17

Lacking anything better on hand, I used rubber cement. Wish me luck.

Brian Byrd - 02/12/17

I used double-sided tape, cut to 5mm width. Worked for me

mrkfiore - 10/12/17

I used double-sided tape to hold down the digitizer. No more shattered screen and works perfectly.

mrkfiore - 10/12/17

I would use thin double sided tape, or even something like B7000 or E8000

blackbear847 -

all done to spec, picture looks good but no touch response??

jack-elynch - 26/03/17

Does any one know where the Digitizer can be ordered from (apart from ebay) are Ifixit not going to stock this part? I know Amazon allways change parts and are a nightmare but someone somewhere must have bought the surplus stock from the factory making them? Thanks

James Caza - 05/04/17

So yeah, I never desoldered that baby speaker :) just sticked him on the motherboard while away :D

For the removal of the digitizer, I had no means to heat whatsoever.... but didn't need it;

I got to grab a corner the hacking-way: I melted a 3mm hole on the plastic to get a tool under the screen :) and that was it (if a little smooth jack-like hole doesnt scare you, it's a real shortcut)

Then to get around more easily I added a bit of heat, but... just rubbing the screen with my fingers for 30secs was enough ! (really hot ! ouch !)

Very nice guide anyway, full of good advice !

Truci Lionhertz - 24/06/17

Where can I buy the screen and lcd? I live in the Phil

precyranopa - 27/06/17

Do you have to desolder the speaker when replacing a broken screen reply with email blackmask184@gmail.com

Richard Rodriguez - 01/12/17

No, I didn’t. Just be careful with the speaker and wires.

mrkfiore - 10/12/17

I’m with mark, changed a cracked screen, but there is no mention of what to do about glueing down the new screen. Otherwise great tutorial.

Brian Byrd - 02/12/17

do you use adhesive to hold down the screen email me at blackmask184@gmail.com

Richard Rodriguez - 04/12/17

When replacing a screen can you use adhesive strips or uv glue and does it matter which one we do. blackmask184@gmail.com

Richard Rodriguez - 04/12/17

I used double-sided tape

mrkfiore - 10/12/17

Really helpful guide. But really how do you keep the screen down without a adhesive. Also I damaged the LCD screen in the process of removing the damaged touch screen. Guess the heat affected the LCD screen. Be careful on that one.

karthikeyan km - 06/01/18

I just can't see how any of you did this without bending the battery?

The steps and tips are great. However without a new battery I can't tell if it's OK.

The battery bent despite great care…

Ducatis - 06/01/18

do you sell LCD of these unit cause my screen has broken.thank u

Julia mariz - 16/01/18

These steps helped tremedelously. I only had a few problems. Number 1 it’s harder then it looks to seperate the old lcd screen from the frame. Use tape on shattered screen to prevent more shards from happening and being broken up. Be careful. Number 2 there’s nothing holding the new screen to the frame. Make sure you have something to make it stick or use glue. I used double sided tape. Number 3 make sure you order the right screen for your kindle.

Paula B - 12/03/18

I just finished replacing my screen & digitizer. It was easier to order the whole thing on Amazon. Did a tablet repair once before and did severe the cable. Now I just buy the screen and digitizer already together. These directions were very helpful. Especially since no other website showed how to get the digitizer out. No need to desolder the battery. Just pry it up, it’s only in the spot with 2 sided tape under it. Make sure to use plenty of 2sided tape on the frame so the screen will stay down once you set it back in.

sngbird00 - 12/03/18

I (a mom with absolutely no tech background) just finished replacing a cracked screen *toot*. Thank you so much for the instructions! However, I never was able to remove the motherboard or the battery. They were very firmly glued down. So, if you’re only replacing the screen, the only things you really need to disconnect seem to be the digitizer and the volume buttons (because they get in the way of the digitizer). Getting the glass off was a pain in the a$$, maybe because I was using a hairdryer lol. But I found that putting pieces of paper underneath the glass as I went along made it much easier.

Again, thank you so much for the instructions. I definitely could not have done it without them! My son is elated to have his tablet back.

ksschuber - 13/07/18

So, just to be clear, you only removed the volume button and just pried everything up?

Randall Douglas - 21/10/18

Hi,

My Tablet (Amazon fire 7) woeks well. touch works but LCD is just black. Under the sun light I can see booting logo, clock, battery and some details but there is no light on display?!! I am looking for a display if anyone has ! Please contact me by email: vaziritabar@hotmail.com

www.vaziritabar - 02/08/18

Where can I just order the shell? My digitizer is good… but my son cracked his plastic case to smitherines around the edges… leaving shards of plastic and big gaps! I need it in blue….

forbiddenclay - 05/11/18

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0792V...

I went with this digitizer. It worked. The P/N on the box is:X001OF8VT3 The screen comes with new adhesive strips

clean the old adhesive off the frame. There is enough to reattach the LCD also. It’s a little sheet of 3M300LSE double sided tape strips.

Stick them down to the plastic and then remove the brown release tape.

The tools pictured are essential! I bought this kit.

https://www.amazon.com/Zacro-Opening-Spu...

The ribbon cables for the digitizer and LCD both have little pop up retainers that hold the ribbons in. The LCD ribbon is a ##&&% to get in.

Everything the instructions say to do, you you need to do. The only exception is the speaker wire.

There were two protective covers on the back of the digitizer, be sure to get them both. Leave the front one on till way last!

The battery is only attached around it’s perimeter. It can be pried out around the edges.

This procedure is right on! Thanks

geoff - 10/02/19

Hi, can anyone help or advise I’ve changed the cracked screen put it all back together, When I switched it on I had the rainbow flare ( took apaprt again to take of screen protector on the inside of new screen) Now when it switch it on i’ve got grey stipe lines across the screen , checked all the connections, they look ok . What have I missed anyone know

jo-anne72 - 09/03/19

I have this too minus the rainbow flare. I have the wide gray stripe and the only cause I can find is a very minor scratch on the black covering down the left side of the LCD. It feels like there might be a micro scratch right next to the scratch in the black tape. I wonder could this be the cause.

Rongwey - 02/09/19

Edit is not an option so I re-post. After fiddling with the LCD connector, the gray bar is gone but the display remains white with no picture. I can hear the startup sound . This makes me think there’s no damage to the LCD as I’d thought but may be a bad connection. Something else I can’t see without a microscope. Either way, I’ve ordered a replacement LCD and will say if this fixed it making the white screen absolute damage.

Rongwey - 02/09/19

hallo,

es gibt:

Kindle Fire 7" (2015 5th Gen) Model SV98LN glass/touch digitizer

und

AMAZON FIRE TABLET 7, 7TH GEN SCREEN REPLACEMENT SR043KL

beide gibt es mit Gummirahmen innnen und ohne diesen Gummirahmen - was muss ich beim Kaufen des Digitizer als Unterschied beachten?

p-faulstich@web.de

Peter Faulstich - 04/01/20

Solo ha faltado sangre de unicornio para poder arreglar esta tablet de amazon, es lamentable que los fabricantes hagan estas cosas tan complicadas de reparar que no te queda mas remedio que comprar una nueva.

cravedinastone - 06/07/20

so I have replaced the LCD screen and the digitizer and everything is working good however I have all these hazy looking colors when I move the thing so I opened it up again and took off the other paper the was inside on the digitizer and put it back together than I could not see anything The lcd is working great but cant figure out where that color is coming from and I read everyone else’s comments about the covering but when I remove mine than nothing shines through help please! kids tablet

Cynthia Duffey - 21/05/21

Where can I get a blue replacement LCD and digitizer?

blackbear847 -

Can't I just have iFixit do this delicate procedure for me and I pay them? Nor I or my husband are tinkers. I'm afraid I will get stuck and mess this up. Let me know. Thanks!

MillieP99 -