Austausch des vorderen Displayrahmens am Nintendo DS Lite

Geschrieben von: Matthew Newsom
  • Kommentare: 68
Austausch des vorderen Displayrahmens am Nintendo DS Lite

Schwierigkeitsgrad

Mittel

Schritte

28

Zeitaufwand

20 - 55 Minuten

Einleitung

Hier wird der Austausch des vorderen Displayrahmens gezeigt.

  1. VAkqhUG2ctFuiKKh
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    • Drehe die Kreuzschlitzschraube am Akkufachdeckel heraus.

    • Die Schraube bleibt im Deckel hängen.

    • Heble den Deckel mit einem Spudger oder Fingernagel hoch. Entnimm ihn aus dem Gehäuse.

    A Phillips #000 (PH000) seems to give a more secure fit (no slipping) than the stated Phillips #00.

    Ritchie -

    This will be good for mods

    Matthew Bevins -

    I'm having a problem getting the screw to unscrew. I have the right Phillips ( it was included with all the stuff I got this) Any tips. it doesn't look like the screw is spinning but i haven't played my Nintendo DS Lite for 3 years.

    whittlegirls -

    bonjour j’ai une petite question pour vous fais trés longtemps que j’ai pas utiliser mon nintendo ds lite et quand je le branche il allume 1 fois orange après il s’enteint même s’il est brancher ça veux tu dire qu’il faut que je change de batterie ? Merci

    Marie-Julie Richer -

    Soit un changement de batterie, soit la carte-mère a peut-être un court-circuit :/

    Polaris -

  2. 25sZ5YeYaes4dCMx

    • Zwänge die Kante eines Spudgers zwischen der Seite des Akkus und dem Gehäuse. Heble nach oben um den Akku zu lösen.

    • Entferne den Akku vom DS Lite.

  3. TgU6hRLWjWFK4TCK
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    • Entferne mit der Spudgerspitze die Gummifüße des DS Lite.

  4. 5mujrSp3TuXlBfCh

    • Das untere Gehäuseteil ist mit verschiedenen Schrauben befestigt. Drehe sie heraus:

    • Zwei goldfarbene 4,3 mm Kreuzschlitzschrauben

    • Eine schwarze 3,9 mm TriWing Schraube

    • Eine 3,3 mm silberfarbene Kreuzschlitzschraube

    • Drei silberfarbene 5,5 mm TriWing Schrauben.

    Not mentioned is to remove the jumper/connector below the word "SLOT-2". Case WILL NOT separate otherwise.

    Kayla -

    In the separation step below, the third picture show the case with the jumper/connector removed.

    Kayla -

    I cannot remove the tri-wing screws.

    Zach Smith -

    Same to me. I tried opening the case by force. Broke several parts of the motherboard…

    Leon -

    I can't remove the final tri wing screw in the battery section and it looks like I grinded the screw out too much for any screwdriver to work.Is there anything I can do?

    Quintin Harbin -

    From what I know, the only solution is to drill the screw out with a very small-headed drill :/

    Polaris -

    How to remove a stripped screw

    Gena FM -

  5. wZxqpiHuTIdWhnk5
    wZxqpiHuTIdWhnk5
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    pSLANlQhrJj1jOZH

    • Setze die Kante eines Spudgers zwischen das oberen und unteren Gehäuseteil in der Nähe der oberen rechten Ecke des DS Lite.

    • Schiebe den Spudger vorsichtig die rechte Seite des DS Lite entlang, dabei öffnet sich ein Spalt.

    • Schiebe den Spudger weiter um die Seiten des DS Lite bis ein Großteil des Gehäuses getrennt ist.

    Don’t forget to remove the GBA cartridge placeholder before removing the backside

    Cees Jan de Boer -

    You forgot to mention to remove the battery compartment Phillips screw.

    nathan lowe -

  6. ogeB4h5PpuF5FBNh

    • Hebe das untere Gehäuseteil weg vom Game Boy.

    • Ziehe vorsichtig. Manche Geräte sind verklebt, wenn du zu stark ziehst kannst du den Einschaltknopf beschädigen.

    When you reassemble, make sure that you have the volume and power buttons in place, and make sure they are in the right position to line up with the switches on the motherboard. If they are not aligned, you risk snapping off the tiny switches on the motherboard (in which case, you are in for some soldering work).

    Eric -

    I should have read the comments first - broke off the power switch because I didn't know about aligning it. No way I can do soldering, guess it's for the dustbin :-(

    Emma -

    Whoops, remembered the power button but forgot the volume slider.

    I'll do it later.

    analbonghits -

    There is no way that the fact you have to line up the volume and power switch toggles upon reassembly is not in this guide. I just carefully followed this guide to replace the shoulder buttons but ruined my DS lite because I didn’t read these (practically hidden comments due to the design of the website) comments and broke the power switch. Thankfully there are 150 million DS I can buy second hand but “repeat the steps backwards” wasn’t sufficient in this repair. And that’s what this website is for.

    Ryan -

  7. D6jD6OGIIu5DcBNn
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    • Hebe beide Auslösetasten aus dem DS Lite.

    • Die Tasten werden von kleinen Stiften und Federn gehalten. Verliere diese Teile nicht.

    • Im zweiten Bild siehst du wie die Auslösetasten und ihre Teile für den Zusammenbau konfiguriert werden.

    Anything after step 7 is unnecessary if having to replace the left or right trigger button(s).

    Nate River -

    The second picture does not show the correct configuration of the button spring. It should be flipped. Look at the trigger on the left of the larger image; that is the correct configuration.

    wrekone -

  8. Mu2ZYeJKEcduVNJC

    • Hebe den Verbinder der WiFi Antenne mit dem flachen Ende des Spudgers gerade aus dem Sockel auf der WiFi Platine.

    There is absolutely no need to follow steps 8-13 if like me, all you needed to do was access the face buttons for cleaning/replacement. Once you have unscrewed the motherboard from the front casing you can just flip it up, making sure you take the front screen with it. You will have full access to the buttons and all of their contacts. No need to remove the wifi board and microphone cable, etc. Also, replacing the ribbon cables for the screen is especially frustrating. Avoid taking them out at all costs, if you can.

    James McCarthy -

    what is the "etc."?

    Rita Cao -

    For those replacing the bottom screen, you can just skip to step 13 and go from there. No need to remove the wifi board, antenna, etc.

    lowestseries -

  9. kJJ6hKr4VDWRNeyJ

    • Heble den Verbinder der WiFi Platine mit dem flachen Ende des Spudgers aus gerade aus dem Sockel auf der Hauptplatine.

    the i was working on had a different wifi connector. i thought a had broken it but the thing underneath it was just to balance it on the motherboard.

    BigD29853 -

    Do you have to put back in the WiFi board? As far as I know it does not require it to play games.

    Aiden Harlin -

    With the Nintendo servers now off, and all the games are playable without WiFi. That being said, I don’t know what is used for local multiplayer.

    Polaris -

  10. hsrcSov5XWaC2ETO

    • Trenne die rechte Kante der WiFi Platine mit dem flachen Ende des Spudgers von der Hauptplatine.

    • Die WiFi Platine ist an der Hauptplatine festgeklebt.

    • Entferne die WiFi Platine vom DS Lite.

    I took it apart successfully and I replaced the screen but I've put it back together and it the green light turns on for about 2seconds quiet dim, brighter for about 1 and then it turns off... I then took the wifi board out, and it turned on! What have I done to it and why doesn't it work with it and only without?!

    Brianlewis -

    Exact same symptoms for me : on boot up, green light would stay on for 1 second, then shut down. Without wifi, green light would stay on, but blank screens. In fact, it's because on boot up, DS will check if wifi is present, and stop if there is an error. Then, it checks for upper screen, and after that, for lower screen. If one of these is not responding, DS will turn off. I check my cables (upper screen) and DS started again with no problem.

    Alexandre -

  11. EiAqWNgllDKDFpXV

    • Heble den Verbinder des Mikrofonkabels gerade aus seinem Sockel auf der Platine.

  12. ZvMZyUpRH6jADfIi
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    • Im nachfolgenden Schritt musst du das Antennenkabel zwischen dem Cartridge-Leser und der Platine heraus ziehen. Sei dabei sehr sorgfältig, wenn du zu starken Widerstand spürst musst du anhalten um Schäden zu vermeiden.

    • Lege das Antennenkabel mit dem Verbinder nach oben zeigend weg von der Platine und halte es mit dem Spudger nach unten in den Spalt zwischen einigen Bauteilen auf der Platine.

    • Ziehe ganz vorsichtig am Kabel bis der Verbinder unter dem Cartridge-Leser ist.

    • Ziehe weiter, bis der Verbinder unter dem Leser heraus kommt.

    • Beim Zusammenbau wird sich das Kabel möglicherweise verbiegen und ist nicht leicht unter dem Leser entlang zu schieben. Wenn das so ist, dann fädle einen Faden erst unten entlang, binde ihn am Verbinder fest und ziehe ihn damit an den Hindernissen vorbei.

    I can't for the life of me get this freaking antenna cable back when putting everything together, it keeps getting stuck under slot-1 ... how do you aid it through? I'm just pushing it through using the cable itself, but the connector gets stuck somewhere close to the other side and the cable pushing won't do anything but flex the cable.

    Peter Marquardt -

    I had some .015" solder that I fed through the other side and wrapped around the antenna cable to help guide it when I was feeding it back through.

    Josh McBroom -

    Fantastic guide, although you !@#$%^&* :P forgot to add that you need a Soldiering Kit at the LAST step, thanks..

    Nate River -

    I did mine without have to soldier, but then again I was cannibalizing the upper screen from one DS to another.

    Christopher Till -

    Tried to add this but unsure if it will stay but here is my advice for the cable feeding.

    When reassembling and attempting to feed the antenna cable back under the DS Lite game cartridge reader the cable will likely kink and be difficult to feed through.

    Therefore tie a piece of white cotton (or another visible colour) thread tightly around the cable, just below the connector. Then feed the cotton under the DS Lite game cartridge reader and through to the other side. Then gently guide the connector back through by pulling on the white thread and moving either up or down to clear obstacles.

    Joel Spencer -

    Attach a thread to the antenna wire BEFORE removing the antenna. Pull the antenna throught with the thread attached. After you get the antenna out, cut the thread from the antenna but LEAVE THE THREAD threaded thru the cartridge slot. Tape it to the cartridge slot so it doesn't fall out while you're working on the DS. After repairing, re-tie the thread to the antenna and use the thread to pull the antenna back thru to where it belongs. PULL GENTLY!

    J S -

    If u remove a bit material from the cover its actually possible to rout this cable over the game card slot.

    yKekS Yzz -

    Cable went right back thru for me! LOL!

    Kayla -

    What I do is run the antenna cable between my fingers to get it as straight as possible. Then I gently feed it under the cartridge slot slowly with the connector facing up. I stop at the slightest resistance and jiggle it back and forth to get it going again. Works every time.

    Deepak -

    it was ez until i tried to put it back >:(

    RealUmbreon440 -

  13. 5AXjtVOwOQpEHldY
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    • Klappe den Haltebügel am Verbinder des Bildschirms mit dem flachen Ende des Spudgers oder einem Fingernagel nach oben.

    • Achte darauf nur den Bügel selbst zu bewegen, nicht den Sockel.

    • Ziehe das Flachbandkabel zum Bildschirm mit der Spudgerspitze direkt aus dem Sockel.

    The little black ribbon clip broke off and now I can't put it back on. What do I do now???

    Peter Diaz -

    Same Problem here :( touc dosnt work anymore

    Christian Zimmermann -

    There should be an added caution remark when removing the ribbon cable from the connector. If the black clip breaks, you're screwed. I have found the connector on another website for about $6. Then the issue is having the right tools to remove the broken connector and soldering on the new one.

    Ted -

    How in the world do you get the ribbion cable back in there?

    brent buser -

    I think this is the most difficult step! You need to be most cautious here!

    Karsza M -

    This requires care to make sure the black clip does not break off. If it does, replacing that connector will be a microsoldering job likely to exceed the value of the board.

    It is also worth noting, that you can simply leave this connector as you found it and not remove the ribbon cable, and still complete this repair. Unless you intend to remove the lower LCD from the mainboard or if it is interfering with the microphone cable (white) routing, it will not be an issue.

    Leaving this connected will also help keep the lower LCD from flopping around when you remove the mainboard.

    Christian DeYong -

    This is tricky! I used my finger nail to open it since I was scared to put too much strenght with a spudger. Be really careful when moving the retaining flap. Just open it 90°, no more or you’ll breack it!

    Putting back the ribbon of the (new) touch screen was the hardest part. The ribbon was bent to the side and my fingers too big to grab it withouth bumping on the mother board.

    I finally found that holding the mobo with my left hand, looking at the ribbon from behind and pushing it with my index was more convenient, although my index was bumping on the retaining flap, thus partially closing it. After many trials and sweat, I finally inserted it and closed the flap! But the ribbon detached from te slot! :’( I put it back easily this time (after reopening the flap of course). And closed the retaining flap, pushing a bit harder this time, making sure I could feel a “click” confirming the proper closing. Don’t put too much strenght on it though!

    The slot to insert it is so tiny! Use a magnifying glass if you can.

    Guilhem Gobet -

    How do I reconnect the cable? Or should it be out?

    Aiden -

    The microscopic flap came off in this step and I think you can’t ever put it back on, given you have no space to work with. This should really be explained better.

    Julien Vandermeersch -

    Yeah the instructions should clearly say don't bend the flap back more than 90 degrees. I recommend closing it as soon as you remove the ribbon cable so that it doesn't get caught on something and break while you're working on the board.

    Deepak -

    Has anyone had any luck replacing the retaining flap if it just falls out? Mines not broken, I just can't figure out how to get it back in.

    IslandGo -

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4vQQOG1h...

    aaron -

    This step permanently ruined my DS Lite. The pictures aren’t helpful at all.

    Leon -

    You don’t need to remove this flap if you’re not removing the touchscreen (and even so, you can do it later). The touch and LCD screen can come out with the motherboard, so this cable doesn’t interfere with the disassembly.

    George Marques -

    The cable won’t go back in, and got damaged whilst I attempted to put it in.

    Stevemmaahd -

    This step didn't warn that the black retaining flap is easily breakable. Not only can it come off easily but hinges can break off. Unknown if kapton tape will be able to hold this in or if this part can be ordered third party. Very stupid explanation of the step. Broke my digitizer permanently while only trying to make a minor repair. Looks like this is a common complaint and the guide should be immediately taken down, edited, and then only put back up when it is safe.

    Guide should have to explain how to mend or replace this part if it breaks since it's such a common problem.

    jen dickson -

    This cable is so difficult to get it back in.

    Max Playz -

  14. j2MOXL6muZXDPIYi

    • Die Platine ist mit zwei 3,4 mm Kreuzschlitzschrauben am Gehäuse befestigt. Drehe sie heraus.

  15. 1qvE3TcOXhg6quHC

    • Öffne das Display soweit, dass du mit dem Finger die Vorderkante der Platine heraus- und vom Gehäuse weg drücken kannst

    • Entferne nicht die Platine, sie ist immer noch mit dem oberen LCD über ein Flachbandkabel verbunden.

  16. FKaasnDRO1VN2mae
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    • Klappe den Haltebügel am Verbinder des Flachbandkabels zum oberen LCD mit dem flachen Ende des Spudgers oder einem Fingernagel hoch.

    • Bewege nur den Haltebügel selbst, nicht den Sockel.

    • Ziehe die Platine weg vom DS Lite und trenne dabei das Flachbandkabel zum oberen LCD von seinem Sockel auf der Platine.

    • Entferne die Platine vom Game Boy.

    • Nun kannst du in gleicher Weise den Haltebügel des Verbinders des unteren LCD öffnen und das untere LCD von der Platine trennen.

    this part on putting it back together is a straight nightmare, anyone got some tips on doing this quickly? i'm just getting a flickering bottom screen which is supposed to be an upper display connection problem, not sure if i'm getting the ribbon cable in deep enough. or an up close view of it in there so i know im not forcing it

    Corbin dallas -

    I don't think there's a quick way for this, but I can tell you that the piece at the end is supposed to fit in all the way, and stop when you get to the corners of the bottom of it. A better way to explain this: put it in until you no longer see the gold part of it, or until it reaches the orange part of it.

    SquidCake -

    After my first reassembly, the top screen was not working (bottom screen briefly flashind and DS turning off imediatly after swithcing on).

    I found out it is the top screen that is not connected correctly.

    You have to insert the ribbon until the part which is wider than the rest of the ribbon, almost bumps on the white connector.

    This was too difficult with just my (too big) fingers. I used the spudger to push the ribbon from behind and maintain it when closing the retaining flap. This is kinda tricky, but it worked!

    Guilhem Gobet -

    Guilhem's point is crucial - the ribbon connectors wider wings must be only a miniscule fraction away from the connector, or you'll get the flash screen of death. This is well worth checking especially as the later stages of manipulating the ribbon through the silver ring (if doing a full shell replacement) can make you feel like you're damaging the ribbon cable. Also check to make sure the black clip is fully closed, otherwise even the smallest movement during reassembly will pull it back out.

    Casey -

  17. UWmLFWg2y2gayEe6

    • Entferne die beiden 8,3 mm Kreuzschlitzschrauben die das obere Gehäuseteil an der Displayeinheit befestigen.

    These screws were a bit too tight, but I bet it's for a reason. You should probably put it back on as tightly as it was before.

    SquidCake -

  18. tboGaTiKoPmTqBCv
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    • Ziehe das obere LCD Flachbandkabel nach rechts durch den Schlitz im Gehäuse.

    • Drücke das Kabel durch den Schlitz nach unten.

  19. DqgPQinnQNbUFiiH
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    • Hebe langsam das obere Gehäuseteil weg vom Display, achte darauf, dass sich kein Kabel verfängt.

  20. IKExxZyEmFVPMouY
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    • Wenn das obere Flachbandkabel frei vom oberen Gehäuse ist dann kannst du die Antenne und WiFi Kabel durch die Öffnung im oberen Gehäuse ziehen.

    • Entferne das obere Gehäuseteil vom DS Lite.

  21. WuUxOUaQJRbqORtX
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    • Die vier Schrauben am vorderen Displayrahmen sind mit Kunststoffdeckeln verdeckt. Entferne sie mit Hilfe einer Stecknadel.

  22. U5NdmxAmNuBe2AmG

    • Drehe die vier 3,4 mm Kreuzschlitzschrauben heraus, mit denen der hintere Displayrahmen am vorderen Displayrahmen befestigt ist.

  23. VRJmvAxBLvO24PrZ
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    • Hebele die beiden Gummipuffer mit der Kante eines Spudgers aus dem vorderen Displayrahmen.

  24. ydRNpFhoPiKQNBXw
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    • Schiebe den hinteren Displayrahmen mit beiden Händen vorsichtig nach oben.

    • Er wird sich dabei nur etwa 2 mm verschieben lassen.

    I wish I would have read this guide instead of watching videos that did not show this part. Because of this the rear bezel's tabs got deformed and now i can't put it back on. Trying to remove those tabs and just screw it in once its in place

    Vinnesia League -

  25. gMYBWXq5ZXrT3vur
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    • Setze einen Spudger in den Spalt zwischen vorderen und hinteren Displayrahmen und hebele die beiden auseinander.

    • Hebe den hinteren Displayrahmen weg vom Display.

  26. 4GtWq4JFDQw4EMMM
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    • Löse beide Lautsprecher mit der Spudgerspitze aus ihrem Sitz und lege sie auf die Rückseite des LCD.

    • Die Lautsprecher haben Magnete, die sie zusammenhalten, so sind sie für weitere Arbeiten aus dem Weg.

  27. udIYQcLQSoPBKeN5
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    • Fange in der oberen rechten Ecke an das LCD langsam mit beiden Händen aus dem vorderen Displayrahmen zu lösen.

    • Fahre am oberen und linken Rand des LCD fort.

    • Zum Schluss kannst du das LCD vom Rahmen abziehen.

    • Entferne das LCD noch nicht ganz. Das Flachbandkabel ist immer noch durch den Displayrahmen durchgeführt.

    For those putting the DS back together,be ABSOLUTELY SURE that the metal tube used for the hinge is positioned so the gap is 100% front facing, otherwise when opening and closing the lid it it can chew up the ribbon cable, wrecking all your hard work

    luv2nil8 -

    Any recommendations for where to get a good functioning LCD replacement?

    Quintin Harbin -

  28. J42NA6b2FAXhF6ut

    • Der vordere Displayrahmen ist frei.

    Showing the ribbon cable being coiled and removed would have been a good addition. Otherwise great job.

    James Crawford -

Abschluss

Um dein Gerät wieder zusammen zu setzen folge den Schritten in umgekehrter Reihenfolge.

Tinte & Feder

Matthew Newsom

Mitglied seit: 06/01/10

38178 Reputation

4 Kommentare

Final step is missing on pulling the ribbon through front bezel caused me to break cable. Thanks a lot ! DS is ruined

smithsats -

Final step is missing ribbon removal but paying careful attention, you can roll the cable up and pull it through. Remember to never be forceful!

Jimmy Speegle -

If you’re planning on a full disassembly (e.g. full shell replacement) this is the best guide to help.

Casey -

There’s a few steps missing at the end. After separating the lcd screen adhesive from the front bezel, you need to run the wifi, mic, and lcd ribbon cables through the hole to remove the screen completely (be careful with this, take out the mic and wifi cable first, then gently roll the lcd ribbon cable until it fits through the hole). If you’re replacing the front bezel, You’ll want to take the metal ring on the bottom left, and the hinge piece on the bottom right (when looking at step 28 image). They should both come out easily especially the hinge piece, assuming a broken hinge. Those need to be put on the new bezel. There is a small piece of plastic in the hinge piece, don’t lose it! It can come out leave holes where the power indicator light is. Make sure that piece of plastic is in the hinge piece before putting it in the new bezel, it requires some force to put in AND take out!

Michael Rodriguez -