DualShock 4 Rechter Joystick Austausch

Geschrieben von: oldturkey03
  • Kommentare: 69
DualShock 4 Rechter Joystick Austausch

Schwierigkeitsgrad

Schwierig

Schritte

12

Zeitaufwand

30 Minuten - 1 Stunde

Einleitung

Hier ist ein DualShock 4-Controller, der bei beiden analogen Joysticks driftete. Ein Austausch der Joysticks löste das Problem.

Die Joysticks sind mit der Steuerplatine verlötet. du benötigst eine Lötstation, um diese Reparatur durchzuführen.

  1. IOo6WGYZYXe3FgxC

    • Entferne die vier 6,0 mm PH00 Schrauben, die die hintere Abdeckung am Controller befestigen.

    • Die Schrauben nicht mit Gewalt lösen, da dies die Gewinde dauerhaft beschädigen kann, wodurch die Entfernung unmöglich wird.

    Yo usé un Phillips #000, ya que el #00 quedaba grande y podía dañar el tornillo.

    Adolfo Gomez Toledo -

    A plain #0 works way better for me

    Jennica Tapia -

    I agree with Jennica, it's a #0 screw

    Peeter -

  2. aeEtZOsBKR5JMM2J
    aeEtZOsBKR5JMM2J
    6h5aVGV6O5ssymAd
    dRONJOXRHeSDdpFL

    • Das Gehäuse wird von vier empfindlichen Kunstoffclips zusammen gehalten. In dieser Anleitung siehst du besser, wo sie sind.

    • Die Clips halten die Nahtstellen zusammen. Wennn sie brechen, funktioniert der Controller trotzdem.

    • Beginne am linken Handgriff:

    • Quetsche den linken Handgriff um einen Spalt zu erzeugen.

    • Zwänge ein Öffnungswerkzeug in die Öffnung und schiebe es in Richtung Joystick.

    • Drücke das Werkzeug nach unten bis der Deckel abspringt.

    • Wiederhole das Ganze für den rechten Handgriff.

    Shoulders are where L1/L2/R1/R2 are, not the %#*@ handles. Confusing instructions.

    foxhoundunit89 -

    Quick tip: Be VERY careful at this step not to dislodge the tiny spring attached to the L2/R2 buttons. While removing the cover, it's easy to pull off either L2/R2 button. Inadvertently pulling off either button will also remove the tiny spring as well. While not too difficult to reassemble, it's not obvious where the spring goes as the spring is almost completely hidden along the side of the button (on the inside).

    I just successfully completed analog stick replacements for two controllers. I completed the first repair without any trouble but managed to dislodge (and almost lose) the spring on the second time around. Needless to say, I spent some time trying to figure out where the spring is supposed to go (no photos of this anywhere). By sheer luck, I figured it out on my own. :)

    Good luck and take your time--especially the first time!

    Michael Whang -

    couldn't have posted pics for me? :D

    kimsballs -

    Golden tip but I would add a thing or two.

    Most probably both triggers R1&R2 will stay in lower half of the pad case with springs hanging there.

    You must take them of their lower case sockets before assembly and fit them bellow L1&L2

    When you feel click when fitting them and spring works like on normal assembled pad you're done.

    If thats not the case do not try to assemble lower casing half as triggers will not work properly.

    Simon -

    if you lost the springs unfortunately, the triggers would still work but it is harder to get to the precise digital press. In other words you will have hard time to create a light press than a hard press.

    meaningless -

    My controller broke

    Gary -

    So what I seem to see a lot of sources fail to mention with this model (and promptly break without noticing) are the two plastic tabs attached to the front shell on either side of the headphone jack ; in order to properly pry that section open, all you need to do is lightly push those plastic tabs in, and the section should open up easily. That seems to be one of the main things that prevent people from prying the shell open.

    The updated models have the tabs as well, but aren’t as stubborn considering the bars between the shoulder buttons on those are inside as opposed to being a part of the shell.

    Hope this helps, and feel free to discuss, especially if you’re more familiar with the issue than me.

    Rifter -

    Thank you so much for mentioning exactly where the internal tabs are located, I couldn't for the life of me get into the controller otherwise.

    I found using two thin plastic guitar picks, the kind that bend more freely, worked very well to shimmy into place on either side of the headphone jack and pop the tabs to get the device to open.

    I did break a small piece from one of the teeth on the back half of the shell that inserts into the tabs, but I believe this was accidentally done before I came across your comment and was prying with a spudger willy-nilly.

    Gently wiggling the front half of the shell containing the main portion of the electronics allowed me to release the triggers and open the controller the rest of the way.

    Fizzwidgy -

    Why is this guide about unlatching the plastic clips before forcing the halves apart, completely separate and just linked here? I missed it and now 3/4 of my plastic clips are broken. It should not be a separate guide, it should be in the main guide, it's only a couple pictures!

    retrorocket160 -

  3. 2x5OGtJKny4kfdMq
    2x5OGtJKny4kfdMq
    GLyJDACc4Yel1Vc2
    NnxoILTrl2FnxVDa

    • Zwänge das Öffnungswerkzeug in den Spalt zwischen den Gehäusehälften und drücke ihn nach unten um das Gehäuse in der Nähe folgender Knöpfe zu öffnen:

    • Teilen Knopf

    • Optionen Knopf

    • Nimm die Plastikdeckel auseinander, achte darauf, dass immer noch Flachbandkabel daran hängen.

    • Drei kleinere Teile fallen dabei oft ab. Damit du sie nicht verlierst, musst du für eine aufgeräumte Arbeitsfläche sorgen.

    • Zwei Federn an den Auslösern.

    • ein graue Verlängerung für den Reset Knopf.

    You can't just pull the casing halves apart. There is a plastic bar that is part of the casing and separates the L1 and R1 buttons from the L2 and R2 buttons. To get this loose, pull the casing outward perpendicular to the L and R buttons until you can slide the L2 and R2 buttons from behind the plastic bar.

    dzturbd -

    SO yesterday replaced the thumb stick on my controller, and now the R2 button is stuck, know any way to remedy this?

    ScootsMcgoots -

    I know you put a warning, but I lost the grey reset button extension. Any idea where to get a replacement part?

    miamiman77 -

    Hey, not even sure when you wrote this, but wanted to share my solution for this problem. I lost one of my reset button rubber pieces when I was doing a different repair, and found that a standard bamboo skewer is just about the perfect diameter to function as a replacement. Just cut it to the proper length and you should be able to get it in there and get your reset functionality back.

    tcbrekke -

    You don't really need it. A long paper clip will work fine.

    Ron Smith -

    I've removed and changed all buttons all seemed ok but now the options and share button don't work, as in when I pressed them down there is no longer a click (bounce) I'm certain it's back in the correct place and I don't think they can be put the wrong way up, does anyone have any advice please :)

    Rachel -

    My share button stopped 'clicking'. When I stripped the controller down I noticed a small copper coloured dimple on the motherboard was depressed instead of proud like the one for the options button. With bluetack I was able to pull it out but each time I tested it with my finger it clicked once and stayed depressed. I don't think there is a permanent solution to this as it's probably metal fatigue or similar so i put a tiny bit of blue tack overy the dimple so the plunger could push that bit further and hopefully pull it out each time. Seems to work as I reassemble the controller. Fingers crossed it holds out a while! I'd love to know if someone else had a different solution.

    The5HD -

    I had an extra part, and it wasn’t gray. Thank goodness for the picture of the black one. It’s rubbery. The small end should be inserted down towards the gold colored spot. It’s next to the word RESET on the mobo.

    J Coyote -

    When reassembling: If, like me, your R2/L2 buttons stayed with the bottom of the controller when you took it apart, it will be impossible to reassemble and get the tiny springs back in place.

    To remedy, remove the buttons, and attach them, with the springs correctly placed, to the top of the controller. There are two tiny grooves, one on the button, and one on the controller top, into which the spring fits.

    Jeff Human -

    Jeff, we owe you a six pack for this comment.

    James Goldie -

    Thank You!! The spring came out and I looked for a way to reinsert it. So I led a thread through its opening (so it couldn´t jump away), and compressed it with pliers. So it was easy to put it in.

    VauWeh -

    Jeff, you've been a wonderfully helpful Human. Thanks for the ingenious tip.

    Kris W -

    Thanks man i was struggling there

    Shut-_-Up -

    My controller broke

    Gary -

    Something is stopping me from opening it cause it cut both by splitting tools

    Josuke Higashikata -

    Mine was also really really resistant to being pried open. In the end, i did my best to loosen the entire gap at least once, then inserted along the middle bottom and used more force than i would have been comfortable with. The plastic on the edges is slightly shot now and it’s not as smooth a grip-feeling anymore, but it came apart fine and I didn’t break anything important. There is just a lot of surface for a friction fit like this and the joysticks keep pulling it back down, which in combination makes it really resilliant. In my case it also was exuberated by a minor soda spill along the right handle which ‘glued’ it together, and i imagine that can also happen just with use and ‘hand cheese’, especially on the outer edges. There is a lot of surface area to stick together there.

    Seleen Shadowpaw -

  4. jhmXq12QvXrVUe3t
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    s3ofOKmDPmTeHDO1
    cWqoWouAmSYSOnfE

    • Löse das Flachbandkabel an der Hauptplatine, welches die beiden Hälften des Controllers verbindet, indem du es mit deinen Fingern gerade herausziehst.

    • Beachte, dass die Ausrichtung des Kabels in die richtige Richtung zeigt, wenn du es wieder verbindest.

    • Nachdem du die beiden Teile getrennt hast, lege das Oberteil zur Seite.

    can you share the battery dimension?

    luxusmirajane -

  5. JFSegwJUdbwMfmMo
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    • Löse den Akkustecker vorsichtig mit einer stumpfen gewinkelten Pinzette, indem du diese an den Seiten des Steckers ansetzt.

    • Wenn der Stecker von der Hauptplatine gelöst ist kannst du den Akku herausheben.

    • Zu ruckartiges Herausziehen des Steckers kann die Plastikteile des Steckers verbiegen.

    For the replacement battery I found that the Turnigy 2000mAh 1S 1C Lipo w/ 2 Pin JST-PH worked perfectly while also being a budget option at only $2.54 USD before shipping. However ONLY INSTALL AFTER CHANGING THE POLARITY OF THE CONNECTOR, this can be done with a pin or craft knife with relative ease. After doing this the controller has doubled in battery life. It required no modification to the controllers internals only extra care to ensure the longer cables didn’t get pinched in reassembly.

    Ryan -

    Got the battery detached without warping the plastic grips/ prongs, but it won't stick back to the board on reassembly. Is there an adhesive i should use?

    Ferrum Phoxx -

    Ferrum Phoxx - Did you just remove the plug from the socket? By that, I mean you didn’t pull the socket it was in off of the board too? If you did pull the socket off as well, I think that would require resoldering the socket to the board first. Tricky, but someone with some soldering experience ought to be able to fix it for you.

    nowurgone -

    I had trouble with analoge, I fixed that but FPC (flat connector) on mainboard broken and I soldered new 12 pin FPC on mainboard again, but in reverse!

    then I put charging cable and the dualshock did not turn on , and I sensed that the dualshock is heating up, I remove charging cable as soon as possible.

    problem is this : negative and positive putted in reverse.

    I don’t kwow what happen if I solder new FPC in right position .

    Does it work or somethings going to out of service?

    sorry formy poor English language .

    regards,

    Hamed

    hamed1379 -

    I can’t pull the connector plug out of the socket. I’ve used my fingers, I’ve tried tweezers. I’ve been rocking it for 15 minutes but it won’t come out.

    marcus2159 -

    I found it difficult to unscrew the four screws on the back of my controller. I recommend a screwdriver that you can get a good grip on so you can turn it precisely.

    My battery came with a screwdriver but when I turned it the handle broke in half. The second screwdriver came from an old set I'd got at Harbor Freight or somewhere. The screws stripped the screwdriver! Then I thought to get the screwdriver from the iFixit kit I'd used to replace the battery in my Galaxy S6 a few years ago. This worked much better. I might just buy a set of screwdriver bits here since both the bits and handle are far better constructed than the cheap stuff I broke.

    Gary F -

  6. j5dvHtLN1CWIYwnU

    • Entferne die einzelne 6,0 mm Kreuzschlitzschraube die sich unter dem Batteriehalter befindet mit einem Schraubendreher #00.

    • Löse die Schraube mit viel Gefühl und nicht mit Gewalt. Du könntest sonst das Gewinde beschädigen, dann lässt sie sich garnicht entfernen.

    Hello. I got a new graffiti controller (without hardware) and i wanted to switch my parts in the graffiti one. I have a PS4 Controller. Not a slim. But it seems like my motherboard screw is on the other side.. its on the right side of the motherboard and my graffiti is on the left.. what controller do i need to fix this?

    TheTechnoMan -

  7. dBTsEZ1H1cwiwRBY
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    6HH2LEaDBslDCarl

    • Löse das Flachbandkabel vomTouchpad zur Hauptplatine mit einer stumpfen Pinzette. Das Kabel ist an der Platine mit einem Verbinder angeschlossen, den man zum Lösen bzw. Befestigen klappen muss. Beim Wiederzusammenbau musst du den Plastikeinsatz vorsichtig von der Platine abziehen und der Klappverschluss muss offen sein.

    Be very careful when you detach the touchpad ribbon. You could disconnect the other end that is inside the touchpad. In fact I would recommend you use a plastic spudger to release the clips on the sides of the battery holder, and then lift the latch to the ZIF socket of the touchpad. If your touchpad is not working upon reassembly, then the other end of the ribbon cable my have came loose in the touchpad. Use a plastic opening tool to remove the back of the touchpad, and lift the brown latch of the ZIF socket and reinsert.

    Patrick -

    thanks for the advice

    TMC -

    currently doing this and have found the desoldering part the most difficult. i purchased a 40w solder on sale and attempted to remove with flux and wick to no avail. a buddy of mine tried with his station and no dice. at this point im thinking the contacts are lead? any advice?

    swammieslippyslappy -

    So the springs are annoying couldn't see were you talk about these as it's very fiddly to do the last step of putting it back together. Not just a reverse of taking it apart!

    Frank Theplank -

    I concur. The springs are the worst part of this job. It would be nice if someone edited this to add some tricks for reassembly.

    raysmalley -

    You just have to put the r2/l2 buttons on the top side. There's a space around that white rubber thing where you can just snap them in. So that you have all the shoulder buttons together before putting the 2 parts back together.

    Flow Von D -

    Tilt your controller and trigger so the triggers are pointing to the ground it stops the spring popping out so much place spring inside the trigger and clip on thats how i do it anyway :) the touchpad is my problem area replaced my stick covers and now it just doesnt work at all :(

    drwhatfunk -

    https://cdn0.vox-cdn.com/thumbor/9dWsZNn...

    Dallas Smith -

    Thank you for this recommendation. Made disassembly SO much smoother.

    jeninholland02 -

    What I did for the Springs was place the spring on the button. Turned the button to where the spring is up on top then attached the button to the controller this helps keep the spring in place as you reattach it that is really the only trick that I found to it.

    Matthew Luna -

    “The touchpad ribbon is connected to the motherboard by a connector that flips to tighten and loosen” —> Just fixed a controller I bought in 2017. There was definitely no flip connector there, the ribbon simply went in. I guesss the internals changed. So beware: don’t mess with the female connector on the motherboard if there’s no obvious flip switch.

    jonl -

    Thank you. I just broke a piece of the plastic because it will not flip. I could not figure it out and was wondering if the version in these demonstrations was different than mine. Thank you for addressing this.

    nearthecross -

    never had spring problem

    DARKMATTER -

    Just want to say big thanks to ifixit for mentioning the flap. It worked like a charm. I searched high and low on all the usual forums, Reddit, Youtube, you name it. Who knew it was as simple as flipping the flap and no one even thought of mentioning it until I found this website.

    leehmclara -

    I don't see a flap for the ZIF connector on the controller (CUH-ZCT2U) I'm working on, so I gently pulled it out with pliers. I may not have seen it, but I couldn't see a release mechanism.

    Shane -

  8. pGZDDMtHaRLKnOH1
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    • Hebe vorsichtig die Haupteinheit vom vorderen Gehäuseteil weg.

    • Die Vibrationsmotoren sind nur lose am Gehäuse befestigt. Du erleichterst das Trennen, wenn du an den beiden Enden unterstützst.

    • Wenn du die Haupteinheit entfernst darfst du sie dabei nicht umdrehen, sonst fallen die Tasten und ihre Abdeckungen heraus.

    Yeah, the factory solder job for those motors on the mobo is terrible. Every time I open these up, I add more solder to those joints just to be safe.

    Robert -

  9. 4RZyZZw4hY13Fmg6
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    • Wenn du den Controller ganz zerlegt hast siehst du folgende drei Teile vor dir:

    • Die Haupteinheit

    • Vorderes Gehäuseteil

    • Hinteres Gehäuseteil

    One day my R2 trigger refused to work all in a sudden. The second day it spread to my square button. I dissembled the controller to this step and found some liquid between the green motherboard and the black plastic holding it. I should not have bought a second-hand especially for a launch version. Anyways I cleaned it up and it still didn't work. I then went to ebay and bought a new motherboard. Basically it is a piece of delicate plastic like PCB. It is held in place by 3 plastic columns and 3 gaps for sliding underneath both triggers and the touch pad. Sorry for no pictures but a careful removal of the old one would give you the best illustration of how to put the new one back. First remove the rubber pads of the triggers, which allows you to slide in the PCB. Then there are another 2 small plastic columns at the back of the gap near the touch pad. There is no need to detach the rotors. A pair of tweezers would help greatly. My controller now works perfectly like new and thanks to the author.

    meaningless -

  10. RJZsy2UqiRSEnPn5
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    • Diese Lötstellen müssen entlötet werden. Da die Platine mit der Unterseite nach oben liegt vertauschen sich links und rechts. Wir haben eine schöne Lötanleitung.

    • Entlöte die Stellen mit Entlötlitze und Flussmittel.

    • Das dauert vielleicht ein Bisschen. Es hilft, wenn du während des Entlötens etwas am Joystick wackelst.

    I'm new to solder/desoldering but i've been unable to get the solder to really melt or come loose enough to remove during this step. i have a solder remover/sucker but alas no luck.

    any recommendations?

    James Napoli -

    You need heat, solder wick (skip the solder sucker, those never work for me;-) and lots of flux. Place flux on your wick and tin the tip of your soldering iron with solder as well.

    oldturkey03 -

  11. j6B2TtUrGadEMZgd
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    • Wenn viele Lötstellen frei sind kannst du den alten Joystick entfernen.

    • Achte darauf, dass sämtliche Löcher frei von Lötzinn sind. Du kannst sie gut mit medizinischen Nadeln oder kleinen Bohrern öffnen.

    • Setze den neuen Joystick in die Platine ein. Achte auf korrekten Sitz und dass die Kontakte sauber in die Löcher passen.

  12. THZCp2cwEdNjRTHZ
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    • Prüfe lieber zweimal, ob alles gut sitzt.

    • Verlöte alle Lötstellen.

    • Auf dem Foto ist die erfolgreiche Reparatur zu sehen. Jetzt muss nur noch alles mit Isopropylalkohol gereinigt werden.

Abschluss

Um dein Gerät wieder zusammenzusetzen, folge den Schritten in umgekehrter Reihenfolge.

Tinte & Feder

oldturkey03

Mitglied seit: 29/09/10

734536 Reputation

14 Kommentare

I just tried to remove both joystick and replaced them but unfortunately only one joystick works and that one that works it's stuck on and only moves in one direction.

Juan Hernandez -

I've not been able to actually get the solder out, would love any suggestions or tips.

James Napoli -

send me a couple of pictures on what your repair looks like thus far. Send them to my email. Click on my username and my email address is on my profile. Let's see what you got so far.

oldturkey03 -

This is a very difficult repair, what this guy didn't mention is you need a very expensive solder station with an electric solder sucker. The solder needs removing and it's nearly impossible without damaging the tracking.

Dave bolton -

You definitely need some soldering experience but the repairability is not that difficult. The soldering points are big enough for any cheap ($40) soldering iron can get too. As for removing them, it helps to use flux and also a soldering wick to absorb all the old solder. It is not easy but not the most difficult repair. P.S you do not need the expensive soldering stating with hot air etcetera. This works perfectly as it get hot beyond the required point to melt the solder

Eyob Grainge -

I've been repairing ps4 controllers along time and this isn't an easy fix. You need an electric solder sucker, to get all the solder out the holes with danagimv the tracking is near on impossible with a good solder

Dave bolton -

@dave2003 “what this guy didn't mention is you need a very expensive solder station with an electric solder sucker “, nope! All I used what a run-of-the-mill soldering iron and some soldering wick and flux. This is a straight forward repair that does not require any special tools!

oldturkey03 -

Can someone suggest a good soldering gun and soldering metal ?

mine is for very thin wires.

Animeiat A -

What is the best soldering gun yet affordable that I can use to solder this in place ?

mine only works for thin wires.

Animeiat A -

Pro tip: If the button works properly and you only need to fix 1 axis, you only need to remove the 3 pins that holds the potentiometer. You can snap off the potmeter from the metal casing of the stick and replace that part only if you have a compatible one but you need to be carefull, as there are multiple size of analog sticks with different potmeters on the sides and sometimes the shaft doesn’t match. But if you have multiple spares analog stick you can try to find a matching one.

Dukefazon -

I took the ps4 controller apart, and the video I was watching said to pop off the green things that are around the analog stick with white things inside them, they have tiny pieces on top and bottom, i’m missing that little peice, does that matter

tonya turner -

ジョイスティックを外した状態で

入力されている場合治りますか?

gogulu -

Link to purchase part takes you to N64 joystick part. Doesn't appear to be correct?

Stephen Hotchkiss -

Hey i know I might be to late to ask questions but what does flux do?

Sennahoj -