Einbau einer zweiten Festplatte am MacBook Pro (13 Zoll, Ende 2011, Unibody)

Schritt 1

Entferne die folgenden zehn Schrauben:
Drei 14,4 mm Kreuzschlitz #00 Schrauben
Drei 3,5 mm Kreuzschlitz #00 Schrauben
Vier 3,5 mm Kreuzschlitz #00 Ansatzschrauben
Wenn du die kleinen Schrauben wieder einsetzt, neige sie ein wenig, wie auch das Gehäuse geneigt ist (sie gehen nicht gerade hinein).

How much weight can I save by removing the optical drive?

You can save a lot of weight if lets say your installing a solid state drive or putting in a second hard drive but if you know that you use the CD/DVD disc drive a lot then you might just want to leave the drive alone.

Marshall WahlstromHelgren - 14/09/15

Tip: Use one of those weekday pill holders to have a cheep way to store screws you remove and each day of the week can be for different sizes or parts. It has been handy to have (much less expensive than the magnetic mat.

Robert Wacker -

Hello, where can I buy the screws I need in case I lose one of them?

taylornya - 20/11/15

iFixit sells a kit: Macbook Pro Unibody (Anfang 2009-Mitte 2012) Schrauben-Set für das Gehäuse

Darrell Johnson - 25/12/15

I have one stripped screw... How opening without drill it?! Any suggestions please?

rodrigosady - 27/11/16

I also stripped a couple screws. I wasn’t able to open it up without drilling. After drilling the heads and removing the cover it was easy to hacksaw the tip and unscrew with a standard driver.

Michael Wilkens - 03/10/17

We have a guide for that!

Wie man eine rundgedrehte Schraube entfernt

Sam Omiotek - 30/03/21

My top tip - make sure you buy good quality Phillips screwdrivers and a magnetic holder. Cheap screwdrivers won’t get the screws undone safely. Without a magnetic holder you have no chance of getting the tiny crews in and out safely.

jeremyyoung - 12/11/18

A good Phillips 00 is your friend here. Also, when reinserting the screws, gently start anticlockwise and you wil feel a click at the start of the thread. This tells you you’re in the right place and less likely to cross-thread through force in the wrong place.

Iain Boyd - 29/01/21

I feel like these are 000 screws. Amazon sales describe them as such and my 000 screwdriver fits better

cam2000deluxe -

Before ordering a new Trackpad remove the existing battery and try clicking the Trackpad. If it clicks OK with the battery out the source of problem is likely a swollen battery, which should to be replaced even if it still works to some degree. From the side of the battery you will likely see the soft part of the battery bulging beyond the hard case.

Patrick Langvardt -

That’s absolutely correct as I can testify. With the battery removed I also adjusted the T6 set screw that adjusts the sensitivity of the trackpad click, evidently someone had cranked mine down tighter than the factory setting.

Gary Register -

Le quatrième paragraphe dans les instructions en français n’est pas correct : ce ne sont pas les 2 petites vis, mais les 7 petites vis qui sont inclinées. Et les 3 grandes sont bien verticales.

Degeorges - 24/12/21

Bonjour ! Merci de votre observation. J’ai corrigé la traduction. iFixit étant un wiki, n’hésitez pas à modifiez si vous remarquez une erreur :) Encore merci de votre attention et à bientôt !

Claire Miesch -

Tip: if you have a magnetic screw mat or similar, lay the macbook over the mat to make sure it catches any screws that may decide to fall of and hide under your table

Moritz -

Funny, it's not her hands that are doing the close ups. :)

Cinemated Man -

What's the difference between the shouldered and non shouldered screws? They look exactly the same to me.

MLNLRD -

Schritt 2

Löse mit den Fingern in der Nähe vom Ventilator die Gehäuse-Unterseite vom Hauptteil des Gehäuses.
Entferne die Gehäuse-Unterseite.

Schritt 3

Löse mit der Kante eines Spudgers den Akkuanschluss nach oben, weg vom Sockel auf dem Logic Board.
Es ist hilfreich, beide kurzen Seiten des Anschlusses gleichzeitig nach oben zu hebeln. Sei vorsichtig mit den Ecken des Anschlusses, da diese sehr leicht abbrechen können.

Is this step of removing the battery connector required?

manodh -

yes - as with disassembly of any electronic component you have to remove any power source. You don't want to accidentally turn the Mac on

khull -

Prying the battery connector off does not take much force. I did exactly what the guide suggested (walked it off back and forth) with the spudger without any problems. Just be very gentle, much like with anything inside laptops, they are very fragile and need to be worked with carefully. A+ instructions, battery replacement was a success.

aekinaka - 23/06/15

Be patient on disconnecting this one. It worked for me step by step, little by little.

Phil Wagner - 22/01/20

I used the nails of thumb and pointer finger simultaneously - worked pretty fine

Reinhard Kaune -

Schritt 4

Biege das Akkukabel vorsichtig weg vom Sockel des Logic Boards, damit es sich nicht aus Versehen beim Arbeiten wieder verbindet.

I put some tape between the connector and socket while working on the drive.

Stephen Smith - 04/01/17

That's a good tip

Anrothan - 17/01/17

Great tip, I did that too

Ahmed Mahran - 17/03/21

One other note: The screw heads fit flush with the curvature of the case -- which means that they aren't exactly horizontal. In other words, they aren't perpendicular to the table that the computer is resting on. Don't try to force them straight in vertically, because you'll risk cross-threading them. (nearly ruined one screw hole myself!)

lelandjordon - 03/08/17

On my MacBook Pro, the connector seems to be an integral part of the battery.

Jerry South - 16/02/21

I suspect it’s just like the special screwdriver required for seatbelts on cars – to discourage regular consumers from attempting repairs. Of course, this only encourages consumers to use the wrong tool to attempt to repairs

colleenthompson -

Dissambling my MacBookPro Premium Mid 2012 (i5-3210M 2.5Ghz) was easily, Careful with the screws, use screwdriver fitting exactly with the screws, you damage them very fast. Work very exactly, relaxed with time, consentration, good Tools and with feelings in your hands. Disconnect the Akku was easy if you take care, remove it to be safe, Two screws more, more space to work & haven`t to think about damaging someting. Apple use diffrent screws, you should have many difffrent scewdrivers. It is also good to clean everything inside, With time everything gets very dusty & dirty, don`t forget the sides and little fittings at the case. Use a pinsel, alcohol, soft peace stuff, it will look like new. If you have knowledge & experience, you can paint it in any colour or airbrushing for individualizing. You can also just polish it with a soft Politure (Sonax car Polish No1, NOT with wax or take an other light Politure you familiar & can do the job, A Laptop should serviced once a year, keeping it good working over years

Stefan Lindner -

First thing i do is open & cleanig everything inside,specially the cooling & fan, renew the thermal paste with an high quality product. Install the Nain System, clean up Bloatware and other unnecessary things, install standard software for daily use, additional change system components against better one (Edge to Firefox, Windows Media Player to VLC , an Office Suite and configuring everything for Data Protection, Privacy- & Indentety Protection, install Drivers from the component Manufactur (incedible effect, disable limitations, more functions, work better & faster, increasing performance, additional change the WiFi & Bluetooth Card to a better one a UMTS WWAN to an LTE Card, increase RAM with two Dual-Channel working SODIMMs, Use M2 or 2,5" SSD if no M2 Slot aviable) as System- and Software iDrive, a FAT32 formatted 32GB Partition to be safe of metaviruses comes with harmless downloads, and a big 2,5 HDD to store the user data. What does you guys think about this? Old Computer become a new life,

Stefan Lindner -

I livein Austria, near Vienna, if someone needs help or anything else, i would be glad to help. I always searching old or broken devices to bring them to new live. I also searching for spare parts, specilly a Bottom & Side Case and a 256GB or higher NGFF Storage Card for a Sony Vaio Tab 11 SVT1144HE (2014), some 14,1" Displays for a HP Probook 440G5 (2016), Elitebook MT 43 Mobile Thin Client, (2011), Dell Vostro 3460 (2012) Lenovo Thinkpad T440s (2014), and a Logic Board for an Lenovo Ideapad 330-15ARR (2017, damaged by Water i think) and a Logic Bord for an Alienware 17R4 with i7-6870HX & Nvidia 1080 (2018, CPU dead, maybe there is a repair Guide or workaround to bring it back to Life). I need always 8GB or 16GB DDR3 and DDR4 RAM Storage (perfectly two ident one for Dual-Channel use for Laptops, M2 SATA 6GB/s and NVMe PCIe SSDs 500GB or more and 2,5"SSD or HDD with 1TB or more and 3,5" HDD with 4GB or above. If you have some of this or other useful parts and doesn`t need them, please make me an offer, maybe

2

Stefan Lindner -

an change something you need. This is not a Business what i do, it`s more a Hobby with challenging new Excercices.. Thats the best Point. Plase forgive me as a Newbie this very long Post in the wrong Section, but if you are start writing you cannot stop.... But now i have to come to an end and would be happy if someone wants to get in contact. My E-Mail is: udontknowme@gmx.at (the adress name is just a notice against Big Data and for Privacy Protection!

Stefan Lindner -

Schritt 5

Benutze das flache Ende eines Spudgers, um den Verbinder des AirPort/Bluetooth Flachbandkabels aus seinem Anschluss auf dem Logic Board zu hebeln.

N.B! Thank you very much all you here on iFixit! Some IMPORTANT notes. Be very careful BEFORE prying the connectors up and down. They are very fragile and the picture could actually be seen as showing a bending loading in their weakest direction, AROUND its slender axis. The connector is slender and inserted on the logic board, so the gentle "walking" up and down should be done ALONG their slender direction and WITHOUT touching the adjacent connectors. If bending is done around its axis the soldering comes apart and the cable is done and gone. Just happened. These flat cables are one of the weakest design spots in my experience. They are a major time, money and geist consuming reason for malfunction like Wi-Fi connection problems, HDD, SSD not found internally but externally from USB issues et al being found on different forums. Thanks again and again.

Greg - 16/06/17

Schritt 6

Entferne das Kamerakabel vorsichtig von seinem Anschluss auf dem Logic Board.
Obwohl von iFixit-Mitarbeitern nicht empfohlen, entscheiden sich einige Benutzer, diesen Schritt vollständig zu überspringen. Weitere Informationen hierzu findest du in den Schrittkommentaren.
Ziehe das Kabel parallel zur Seite des Logic Boards. Wenn du es nach oben ziehst, kannst du das Logic Board oder das Kabel selbst beschädigen.

I'd to disassemble my MBP two times because my SSD did not work properly in optibay. While doing it a second time, I omitted steps 6 and 8. It is really not necessary, but step 6 is really scary.

nicholas -

Do you even need to do this?? I've seen guides where they just leave those on and slide the superdrive out from underneath that module..??

Philip -

Yes, this is really no need. I left it there, and still can proceed.

maiyawmh - 13/09/16

I've replaced 4 dvd's with hdd's already, in different macbooks, so wasn't too fussed about #5. However; this time I broke the camera connector cable :(

The connector is stil in it's socket, and I can't get it out no matter what I try. My guess is that some of the glue that connects the socket to the logic board, got into the socket as well. Prying with a small screwdriver, pulling with a pair of tweezers... nothing works. And this mbp belongs to a friend who uses his camera a lot for skyping...

I hope we're still friends after I tell him.

The thing is; I think it might be possible to do the whole operation with that cable still in its sockets; if you pull the rest of the cable free of the fingers, you can probably fold it out of the way when you lift the dvd out.

puchelaar -

This is Sooo Unnecessary!! don't do it!

grant reynolds -

I actually found it necessary to do this step. If not done you can rip chord, if you read the wording carefully and do as it says it should not break.

Robert Wacker -

After having initially skipped this step, I finally followed it. I couldn't find a way to move the airport / bluetooth assembly away otherwise, and in the end it's a pain to put the small screws back in. Didn't have any trouble unplugging the camera cable, but it is indeed scary because it looks pretty fragile.

I only skipped step 8, as it didn't seem necessary.

JoGersen - 10/01/15

I also broke my camera cable!!! And I just realized that removing that lovely cable was not necessary for the following steps!!! Thank you!

I dont know how to fix this problem and I asked it in this question: How can I fix broken camera cable

Please, help...

Yusuf - 15/02/15

I successfully skipped this step when removing the hard drive enclosure (I had already the dual drive running, but I needed to replace the drive in the optical enclosure. I also skipped steps 7, 8, and 11.

pauloau - 29/05/16

I have a blog post on my experience of performing the upgrade with a simple diagram showing how to skip step 6, 7, 8 and 11. (http://www.ocyedwin.com/?p=190)

Aderic Adsisco - 12/08/16

I tried to pull the cable, but it did not come off even with moderate force. So it stayed as it was, and I had no problems taking out the drive and putting in the new one.

Probably its best to skip this step.

cearnach - 04/12/16

I can't remove this so I skip it. I also skip 7,8,11 with no problem, just do it slow and carefully remove any parts.

Pat Ach - 29/01/17

Just did this. I elected to actually do this step and I’m glad I did. It was no big deal. Just pull straight back from the socket (not up or angled!) and although it was a little tight, it came out. I think it’s worth it not to possibly mess that cable up when you extract the drive. The drive itself does not lift up straight out- you have to work it out as there a few minor obstructions. At that point, it would be very easy to damage the camera cable. I took all the antenna cables off even those this guide only recommended taking off the long cable. This was due to an Apple repair video I had seen. This proved to be unnecessary and I should just have stuck with this guide’s recommendation. I did skip taking the woofer cable off towards the end of this guide as that seemed to be, and subsequently proved to be, utterly unnecessary. All in all, just moving slowly and carefully I managed this in 30 mins though next time will be faster, no doubt.

dave - 03/01/20

I did not perform step 6, 7, 8, 10 and 11. Once I performed step 9, I was able move the speaker housing to the right enough to get a long screwdriver to get to the ‘hidden’ screw underneath the housing and just removed the other two main screws holding in the drive in step 14. I did remove the HDD and holding backet prior to starting so I could slip the superdrive out and place the caddy back in the opposite direction. You just have to careful not to snag the wires when trying to remove the superdrive and and when slipping in the caddy. My Macbook is a MacBook Pro (13-inch, Mid 2012) and I only needed a Philips 00 screwdriver, and did not need to use a Torx screwdriver during any part of the upgrade.

Balvinder Gill - 27/02/21

Schritt 7

Bewege das AirPort-/Bluetooth-Flachbandkabel vorsichtig aus dem Weg, wenn du das Kamerakabel vom Kleber abziehst, der ihn am Subwoofer und an der AirPort-/Bluetooth-Klammer befestigt.
Entferne das Kamerakabel unter der Abdeckung , die in die AirPort-/Bluetooth-Klammer eingeformt ist.

This step is unnecessary, as is step 8. You can get the SuperDrive out and put the caddy in without pulling the cable out.

Steve - 03/06/14

I successfully skipped this step when removing the hard drive enclosure (I had already the dual drive running, but I needed to replace the drive in the optical enclosure. I also skipped steps 6, 8, and 11.

pauloau - 29/05/16

Confirmed for a second time: Steps 6, 7, 11 NOT NEEDED.

Alvaro Paiva Bimbo - 13/12/18

Schritt 8

Trenne mit der Spitze eines Spudgers das Antennenkabel, das dem Logic Board am nächsten liegt, vom Anschluss auf der AirPort-/-Bluetooth-Platine.
Befreie das Antennenkabel von der AirPort-/Bluetooth-Klammer.

I successfully skipped this step when removing the hard drive enclosure (I had already the dual drive running, but I needed to replace the drive in the optical enclosure. I also skipped steps 6, 7, and 11.

pauloau - 29/05/16

Based on the advice above, I tried to skip this step. Unfortunately, the way the wire wraps around the plastic caused it to break underneath when I lifted the optical drive out, and now I have another broken part.

lisaquatmann - 17/12/16

Yu can easily skip the step, just make sure you take care when removing/put away the AirPort/BT assembly in the next step, be gentle.

Lucian Onea - 21/04/17

I skipped this step and disconnected (the end that was not mentioned) accidentally from the machine, what can I do to repair it?

Ely - 10/07/21

Ce connecteur est très fermement fixéà la carte. Lorsque j'ai procédé comme expliqué ici, il s'est brisé !!!!

J'ai tenté de le recoller. Pour l'instant il semblerait que j'ai toujours du wifi. Ouf.

Je pense donc qu'il faut éviter cette étape si possible.

Pat Microbiom -

Schritt 9

Entferne folgende fünf Schrauben:
Zwei 10,3 mm Kreuzschlitzschrauben
Zwei 3,1 mm Kreuzschlitzschrauben
Eine 5 mm Kreuzschlitzschraube

Note the position of the little grounding rings when removing the red (10mm) screws. You'll have to make sure to re-seat them when reassembling!

James -

You are so right about making sure to put back the two metal rings when you screw back the two (red) 10.3mm screws. I missed putting back one of the rings and read your comment after I had installed the drive and closed the macbook. Everything was working fine, but I went back to open it an leave it just as it was, with both metal (one with a plastic/cloth material around it) plates/rings attached properly. So it is very important to make sure you put those two 10.3 mm screws back with the plates/rings that they hold, exactly as they were before you put it apart.

pachis2 - 30/10/17

I think you should remark when re-assembling the machine, you should pay attention to the metal clip in Step 9, the upper left screw position, it's easy to miss when assembling, because there are so many wires, and it may be very easy forgetting putting the metal clip back in place.

Fisher -

As far as the grounding ring goes, it slips back over the screw hole, be patient and gentle. You may have to finagle the airport board under it first and then lay the board flat and reattach the subwoofer. I will see if I can add a pic in the near future. But that the best way to describe it.

Robert Wacker -

FYI: These are #00 Phillips screws!

Rossi Macri - 01/03/21

Help! I think i stripped the screw head of the one encircled in yellow. What to do?

BJC - 09/05/21

Be weary of the cable when screwing in the Orange screw closest to the clutch cover. I pinched that cable and had to replace it.

Duck -

Schritt 10

Ziehe die AirPort-/Bluetooth-Einheit und den Subwoofer ungefähr mittig des optischen Laufwerks nach oben, bis sie sich voneinander lösen.
Bewege die AirPort-/Bluetooth-Einheit und den Subwoofer von der Oberseite des optischen Laufwerks weg.

The left part in the picture (the AirPort/Bluetooth assembly) is held down under a plastic tab that sticks out a tiny amount. Thus, it needs to be pulled very slightly towards the camera module in order to be able to lift out.

Darren - 09/04/17

Schritt 11

Befreie das rechte Lautsprecher- und Subwoofer-Kabel unter der Halterung in der Nähe der Seite des optischen Laufwerks.
Ziehe das rechte Lautsprecher-/Subwoofer-Kabel nach oben, um den Stecker vom Anschluss auf dem Logic Board zu trennen.

I will confirm for a third time, having just done this replacement yesterday morning: Steps 6, 7, 11 NOT NEEDED.

cjdow - 05/05/19

When I attempted to lift this cable out of the connector, the connector broke and separated from the board. I suggest not to do this step.

car rider -

Agreed. I skipped this step. No need to risk breaking a cable or connector if you don't have to disconnect it to get the optical drive out.

Alan Grassia -

Three things:

1. Thanks for this guide!

2. I don't understand the comments that this step (#11, disconnect the speaker cable from the logic board) can be skipped, given this guide is all about replacing a failed right speaker/subwoofer. Maybe this step was re-titled from its original post?

3. My (used) replacement part from iFixit (part IF163-029-1) for my mid-2012 Macbook Pro 13" was different than the OEM part in that the replacement part's cable exited the subwoofer enclosure from the "northeast" corner of the package, rather than the "southeast" corner of the package. This required a rerouting of the cable to a route *on top" of the subwoofer rather than below it, as a nearby boss prevented the original route. Also, I needed to completely remove the heat shrink that joined the subwoofer and right speaker cables together near the connector, as it prevented the radius necessary to route that portion of the wire. I have pics but I don't see how one can provide them in the comments.

ROBERT ANTHONY PASSARO -

Schritt 12

Benutze das flache Ende eines Spudgers, um den Verbinder des Festplattenkabels aus seinem Anschluss auf dem Logic Board zu hebeln.
Biege das Festplattenkabel vom optischen Laufwerk weg.

N.B! Thank you very much all you here on iFixit! Some IMPORTANT notes. Be very careful BEFORE prying the connectors up and down. They are very fragile and the picture could actually be seen as showing a bending loading in their weakest direction, AROUND its slender axis. The connector is slender and inserted on the logic board, so the gentle "walking" up and down should be done ALONG their slender direction and WITHOUT touching the adjacent connectors. If bending is done around its axis the soldering comes apart and the cable is done and gone. Just happened. These flat cables are one of the weakest design spots in my experience. They are a major time, money and geist consuming reason for malfunction like Wi-Fi connection problems, HDD, SSD not found internally but externally from USB issues et al being found on different forums. Thanks again and again.

Greg - 16/06/17

Schritt 13

Benutze das flache Ende eines Spudgers, um den Verbinder des optischen Laufwerks aus seinem Anschluss auf dem Logic Board zu hebeln.

Schritt 14

Entferne die drei 2,7 mm Kreuzschlitzschrauben, die das optische Laufwerk am oberen Gehäuse befestigen.

can i reuse this optical drive again

justcause3 - 25/09/15

Sure you can. Use it in anything. Stick it in a USB enclosure and carry it.

scottmilliken - 07/01/16

iFixit has a guide on How to Remove a Stripped Screw: Wie man eine rundgedrehte Schraube entfernt

Stripped Screw - 31/10/16

I stripped the top left screw and lost a few others, where can I buy replacements?

Ely -

top left screw is a nightmare

Fabian Cadiz -

Schritt 15

Ziehe das optische Laufwerk an seiner Kante, die dem Display am nächsten ist, nach oben und entferne es vom oberen Gehäuse.

Because I skipped steps 6, 7, 8, and 11. when removing the hard drive enclosure (I had already the dual drive running, but I needed to replace the drive in the optical enclosure, I found it easier to remove the enclosure by lift the side close to the battery and main HD and pulling it towards myself (towards main HD and battery).

pauloau - 29/05/16

Did the same, also because i skipped those steps. It worked, you just have to remove it gently.

Lucian Onea - 21/04/17

Schritt 16

Entferne das Kabel vom optischen Laufwerk.
Ziehe nur am Verbinder, keinesfalls am Kabel selbst!
Entferne die beiden schwarzen Kreuzschlitzschrauben #0, die die kleine metallene Halteklammer befestigen. Bringe diese Klammer an deinem neuen Laufwerk oder dem neuen Festplattengehäuse an.

If you wanna keep the optical for an external do you then need a new hard drive enclosure for the old optical bay?

Customer Service - 30/09/20

Nope! You just need one of these: USB-Kabel für optisches SATA-Laufwerk

Sam Omiotek - 26/03/21

Pro Tip: Do NOT use a #0 Phillips on these screws. They slip easily because the screw bit is too large. This can lead to slipping, stripping, and rounding of the screw.

#00 or even #000 Phillips screw bits are recommended. I used both and they fit much better in the actual screws.

Rossi Macri - 01/03/21

Use the largest bit that fits snugly and fills the screw head. In general, these guides are written for iFixit tool users, so if you’re using some other brand/kit, you’ll have to be a bit more careful about driver selection. The sizes are not very well standardized.

Jeff Suovanen - 02/03/21

Schritt 17

Entferne den Abstandhalter aus Plastik aus dem Gehäuse des DVD-Laufwerks, indem du auf einer der beiden Seiten die Plastiklasche eindrückst und den Abstandhalter nach oben herausnimmst.

is it 9,5mm or 12,7mm for the caddy? My stuff macbook pro mid 2010, need advice what size is compatible. Thank you

Adi Purba - 13/04/21

All Macbooks use 9.5mm Optical Drive Caddy, also, If you’re wondering as well, the Optical Drive runs at SATA II speeds just like with the main hard drive area, so if you’re using a SSD, then it’s going to run at a slightly slower speed.

- PS5iscool - - 22/05/21

Schritt 18

Achte darauf, dass die Anschlüsse für die Festplatte nach unten zeigen, bevor du die Festplatte in das Gehäuse setzt.
Setze die Festplatte vorsichtig in den dafür vorgesehenen Platz in dem Gehäuse.
Halte das Gehäuse mit einer Hand fest und drücke die Festplatte mit der anderen Hand in die Anschlüsse im Gehäuse.

Okay it seems like some models of MacBook Pro have issues with a fast (6Gbit/s) SSD in the optical bay. Even though my Mac says it offers 6Gbit on both bays it simply didn't work in the optical bay. So I switched places between the two drives and everything seems to work. My Mac booted from the old HDD in optical bay automatically and then I cloned it afterwards and changed the startup disk to the new one. As said before, don't put a fast SSD in the optical bay!

Carl -

This is an extremely late response to an old comment, but… whatev’s. My 2011 MacBook Pro had that issue: the main (HDD bay) SATA operated at 6Gbit, and while the optical bay said it was 6Gbit, the “Negotiated Link Speed” was like 1.5Gbits regardless of what you put in it (I can understand 1.5Gbits for an optical drive, but not for an SSD). Some of the early 2012 models did the same thing, from what I understand, but that was corrected pretty early on; both my 13” and 15” 2012’s run at 6Gb/s on both SATA busses.

AJH -

It’s not wise to swop the optidrive for an HD as there is no physical protection. The caddy is only intended for an SSD.

Ben Ormerod - 28/08/20

Schritt 19

Wenn die Festplatte im Gehäuse sitzt, halte sie mit einer Hand fest und setze den Abstandhalter wieder in das Gehäuse ein.

Normally with the HD enclosure there come a set of screws. use these to screw down the HD in the enclosure since you need to flip it up side down to reinstall it into the MBP

Bart -

Schritt 20

Verwende zwei #1 Kreuzschlitzschrauben, um die Festplatte im Gehäuse zu sichern.

Where are these screws coming from? Were they part of the original optical drive?

Bradley DeHerrera - 23/09/20

The new enclosure should include these two Phillips screws.

Sam Omiotek - 11/01/21

Can someone show the step of removal process of hdd/SSD placed in the caddy? I am unable to revert this process. Do we have to apply back greater force to remove back the hard drive/SSD from the caddy?

Tarun Kumar Verma -

Gads, I wish they made a caddy where the optical drive was removable without having to remove the entire caddy. That is a major peeve of mine. Like… just mount it the other way! I don’t want to have to go through this entire process every time I upgrade the secondary drive.

AJH -

These screws seems to be located in different places on different enclosures. I had serious trouble getting the SSD that the previous owner of this MacBook installed out of the enclosure until I realized the screws holding the SSD in place were on the side and not on the bottom. In case anyone else has the same issue!

nessie1001 -

Schritt 21

Befestige die Öse vom DVD-Laufwerk mit zwei #0 Kreuzschlitzschrauben am neuen Gehäuse.
Verbinde alle Kabel, die du vom originalen DVD-Laufwerk entfernt hattest, mit dem neuen Gehäuse.

Replaced the optical with hdd, as well as replaced the hard drive with an ssd. Now I get the circle with a line through it. But, when I hold the option key down, it gives me both hard drives, PLUS, the thumb drive I have in the USB port with a Mountain Lion installer. It even shows the recovery disks, but gives me the circle with the line when I choose one. Any help is appreciated.

claude -

Mate,

My mbp shipped with OS 10.8, and I had upgraded twice to 10.10

I've a 10.7 USB which upgraded my old MBP.

My plan today was to boot with my new ssd, my time machine back up and the Lion usb plugged in.

I would then click on the Lion usb, and tell it to put the OS and time machine back up on the ssd.

So I help down ALT and when it started it gave me the options of the usual Mac internal or the Lion USB.

I clicked Lion, but instead of taking me to the install options (Disk utility, restore from time machine etc etc) it gave me that grey circle with a diagonal line through it. The no entry sign - grey on grey - that I think you have.

Some googling said that it is because I was trying to usb a 10.7 install on a MBP that shipped 10.8

You can't go back, apparently.

So if any of the OSs are older than the mac you got, you will get this error. The grey in grey no entry.

I just cloned my HDD to my ssd (Carbon copy cloner free 30 day trial) using an external stat-usb3 wire and all is good.

Rory - 02/11/14

I have a 17" Macbook Pro6,1 unibody with an Intel Core i5, 2.53GHz. I was successful installing a 250GB SSD in the DVD bay, and I'm able to boot from it. I did this by first installing OS X 10.9.4 on the SSD mounted into an external HD case, testing the system to see if it would boot up into the SSD, then installing the SSD and carrier in the DVD drive bay. The system now boots up from the SSD with no problems. If you are having installation problems, I recommend trying this method.

roger hall - 26/07/14

I just have finished installing second SSD to my MBP (unibody 15` 2010).

First one was changed like one year ago. Samsung 500GB SSD. It is in my HDD bay and I'm running system from it.

Today I put a new Samsung 1TB 850 Evo 1 SSD in to my optic bay.

I encounter problem with SSD not recognized by Finder.

But It was recognized by Disk Utility.

What I did was I erase new SSD by Disk Utility. Then the new partition was created and now It has been seen by Finder.

So If you see it in Disk Utility just erased it.

Some extra info in under this link--> https://discussions.apple.com/docs/DOC-4...

Wish you all luck :)

rybafly - 13/06/15

My installation went great thanks to the guide. I did notice a small thing that might make a good tip, and that is to inspect all the visible screws. I saw one that was slightly raised, and when I poked around with the spudger, I found 2 more that had worked themselves out a bit. Its probably something super rare but at the age of these things, it wouldn't hurt to check.

Tineyi Chapisa -

Schritt 22

Wirf das alte Laufwerk nicht weg! Es kann mit Hilfe unseres SATA-Laufwerk USB Kabel immer noch verwendet werden.
Richte den SATA Anschluss des Kabels mit dem Anschluss am Laufwerk aus und stecke ihn ein.
Stecke den USB Anschluss in deinen Laptop und das Laufwerk ist bereit zur Verwendung.

There is a small metal button in the front of the drive and you can use that to eject the drive if you were wondering.

Joseph Landry - 13/02/17

Maybe that explain the eject button mechanism maybe….

- PS5iscool - - 22/05/21

Die neue SSD wurde durch das Laufwerk ersetzt aber leider wird jetzt die alte HDD nicht mehr erkannt. Hatte schon ein anderer das Problem?

Alexander Richter -

Einbau einer zweiten Festplatte am MacBook Pro (13 Zoll, Ende 2011, Unibody)

Einleitung

Werkzeuge

Ersatzteile

Schritt 1

Schritt 2

Schritt 3

Schritt 4

Schritt 5

Schritt 6

Schritt 7

Schritt 8

Schritt 9

Schritt 10

Schritt 11

Schritt 12

Schritt 13

Schritt 14

Schritt 15

Schritt 16

Schritt 17

Schritt 18

Schritt 19

Schritt 20

Schritt 21

Schritt 22

Tinte & Feder

Sam Goldheart

5 Kommentare