Huawei P9 Display austauschen

Geschrieben von: Dominik Schnabelrauch
  • Kommentare: 62
Huawei P9 Display austauschen

Schwierigkeitsgrad

Schwierig

Schritte

15

Zeitaufwand

2 Stunden

Einleitung

Verwende diese Anleitung, um die Display deines Huawei P9 auszutauschen.

Bevor du anfängst dein Gerät auseinanderzunehemen , entlade den Akku auf unter 25%. Ein geladener Lithium-Ionen-Akku kann Feuer fangen und/oder im Falle einer versehentlichen Beschädigung explodieren.

  1. 4PyHbYrcjSvJWL1j
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    • Schalte zuerst dein Handy aus und nimm den SIM-Kartenhalter heraus.

    • Entferne die beiden Pentalobe P2 Schrauben unten neben der USB-Buchse.

    • Ist das Glas gesprungen, kannst du mithilfe von etwas Klebeband deine Augen vor Glassplittern schützen, und auch einen besseren Halt bekommen, um das Gerät zu öffnen.

    your supply kit -IFIXIT does not have a screw driver bit small enough to unscrew the two Pentalobe P2 screws for my Huawei Mate P9 pro

    phone. Where can I get help from ?

    Vincent Leung -

    Hi Vincent!

    Our Pentalobe P2 bits work perfectly in the Huawei P9. If you already have a driver handle that has a 4mm socket, you can use one of these bits in it and that should work fine. Otherwise, if you prefer the P2 screwdriver itself, you can find that tool here.

    I hope this helps!

    Kadan Sharpe -

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    • Hebe nicht nur das Display statt der ganzen Smartphone-Einheit heraus, du könntest dadurch das Display beschädigen.

    • Verwende ein iSclack oder Saugheber, um das Rückteil von der Displayeinheit zu trennen.

    • Wenn es dir nicht gelingt, die Smartphone-Einheit aus dem Rückteil herauszuholen, kannst du die Spudgerspitze in die Öffnung der Kopfhörerbuchse einsetzen und die Einheit nach oben drücken, bis ein Spalt zwischen der Einheit und dem Rückteil entstanden ist. Heble dann die Smartphone-Einheit mit dem Spudger aus dem Rückteil heraus.

    • Nimm das Rückteil noch nicht komplett ab. Das Kabel des Fingerabdrucksensors ist noch mit der Displayeinheit verbunden.

    If you cant get suction because of cracks in the screen, use wide tape to create smooth surface.

    Kent Alexander Johansen -

    If your screen is smashed, and nothing else will work (iSclack etc), you can get a thin blade between the casing and the screen assembly and the bottom. The screen assembly can then be pried out. I fought with mine before discovering this. Be careful of the broken glass.

    Rob Collins -

    I struggled to remove screen with suction cups due to damage to the back case. I used a jim to pry from bottom by usb c port, worked well.

    Philip Lloyd -

    Be very carrefull as it can open in one fell swoop !

    Jean-Marc Boisseau -

    On my model, I had 2 Little torx screws beside the USB port. If so, the screen won’t come out with them on.

    Lola Gillet -

    Interesting, sure those were 6-starred (Torx) and not 5-starred (Pentalobe) like mentioned in step 1?

    Tobias Isakeit -

    Are there any tips to help loosen the screen after taking the screws out? I brought in an extra person to help with the suction cup whilst I tried to pry the screen away with it still only moving at most 1mm (maybe less) and not enough to get any pry tools in. Ending up using quite a lot of force - far more than I think I should be to no success. As it stands I’m just ending up doing minor damage to the base of the screen/case.

    A Birch -

    Hey A Birch,

    just for the case, I mention — it’s important to pull out the SIM card tray, otherwise, it will block the opening procedure and you’ll damage your phone. In case the frame is damaged or bent you’ll need more force to open the phone. In general, the opening procedure should be fairly easy.

    Dominik Schnabelrauch -

    On this step, I found it hard as the screen and the motherboard are attatched, but instead just the screen is coming up, any tips for getting under and lifting up the motherboard + battery. (Trying to do a battery replacement). The screen with that wire on Step 15 for some reference :)

    Nathan T -

    Received my kit yesterday and now trying to remove the screen from the case with the suction tool. Having extreme difficulty and cannot even get a pick in to prise it off. Still trying…

    Alan Farrow -

    Found it easy to remove screen from case using the sucker while holding the edge of the case down using the blue spudger that came with the kit. Came off in seconds…

    Alan Farrow -

    If you have difficulty removing the display from the case, make sure to not just remove the screen. Apparently, if the case has received a knock or the motherboard is sticking to the case, it can be very, very difficult to move the motherboard as well as the screen.

    However, the whole screen and motherboard assembly needs to come out. If only the screen moves, chances are the ribbon cable that attaches it to the motherboard may get pulled out of its socket or may even get damaged. I suggest to not use excessive force on the display and be very careful when attempting to pry it open. You need to get a purchase on the whole screen/motherboard unit, not just the screen.

    Using a lever through the USB C port and the hole for the headphone jack may help to get the motherboard assembly moving. Be careful, though to not damage theses parts.

    I think the guide should be amended to point out the possibility of moving the screen only and its associated dangers.

    Thomas Kuehne -

    I found the screen/motherboard very difficult to move. I used the sucker (down near the USB/screw end) and the broad end of the spudger in the USB port (I was careful (I hope!) to not insert the spudger too far so I was just pressing against the case). It needed a lot of force and can away sunddenly but has left the fingerprint cable intact.

    I have looked at other comments and I had removed the 2 screws next to the USB port and the sim tray, it was just plain sticky.

    David Crane -

    I couldn’t remove the screen cause I was afraid to break it!! Also using two suction caps it was impossible to lift. I tried with a thin blade but nothing to do. Is there any “trick” to release it? Why is it so strengthly stuck? Please somebody give some suggests…

    Gabriele Greggio -

    Try to make sure to remove the SIM card tray and the screws at the bottom end of the phone before you try to lift the display, both block the display whilst removing the back cover. For the case that you’re using two suction cups instead of an iSclack, try to place them as close to the bottom edge as possible. For the case that the suction cups fall off easily, you can put a little water on them before pressing them on the phone. As you mentioned you can try using a blade/opening pick/jimmy as a lever during the removal procedure or you can use a tool like a spudger and insert it into the USB port to press the assembly out of the rear cover but take care to avoid damage to the port. The plastic clamps can sit really tight sometimes. In case the frame is damaged or bent you’ll need more force to open the phone.

    Dominik Schnabelrauch -

    PS I spent my money to buy battery and tool kit but if I can’t open it I wasted money believing in this “guide” that show all as a kind of easy DIY… actually it’s easier to make a damage bigger than repair!

    Gabriele Greggio -

    Heating the aluminium back of the phone with a hairdryer to about 60C helps. Aluminium expands more than twice as much as the glass which anyway remains cool away from the hairdryer. Then the suction pliers and the spudger through the 3.5mm audio jack hole finally did the trick. I was about to give up!

    J B Graham -

    I strongly agree with JB Graham : the fix should suggest to heat the phone if you encounter difficulty to open the case. I had to heat it a while until I could make the two parts move with the suction cups.

    pichel -

    I just replaced the battery of the Huawei p9. I had to open the phone using a thick, blunt needle using the headphone jack. After creating a gap, I carefully fulled the phone apart by my fingernails, with no problem whatsoever. No risk of damage doing it this way. Of course, you need to be carefull not to damage the contact pins inside the jack, but at least there is no risk of damaging the screen this way.

    I don’t understand why the suction cups are the preferred method to open the case. They just popped of by applying a scaring amount of force…

    Next time I will immediately use the headphone jack.

    M Brt -

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    • Trenne den Stecker des Fingerabdrucksensors mit einem Spudger ab.

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    • Ziehe den Stecker des Antennenkabels ab.

    • Entferne den Aufkleber, der oben auf der Schraube befestigt ist.

    By carefully removing the cable from the antenna, the solder broke and the connector remained attached to the cable.

    It was therefore not possible for me to reattach the cable during reassembly.

    Nevertheless, I don't notice any malfunction after turning the phone back on: the WiFi and the 4g signal are good and I don't see any difference neither in terms of performance nor quality.

    Maxence Laurent -

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    • Entferne die beiden Kreuzschlitzschrauben #00, mit denen das Metallplättchen befestigt ist.

    • Dieses Plättchen, das den Akkustecker bedeckt, hat auf beiden Seiten einen kleinen Haken. Benutze eine Pinzette, um diese zu lösen und klappe das Plättchen vorsichtig nach oben weg, um es zu lösen.

    Removing the plate can be a bit difficult. It was stuck behind the other plate. It bended a bit while removing it, but it doesn't harm if it does.

    Steven -

    I actually couldn’t get this plate out: as mentioned by Steven there is a slight lip (shown on the photo - the tweezers are pointing to it) and this is under another plate above. That was just a minor complication, the real problem is that I couldn’t release the end of the plate nearest the edge, In the end I had to gently bend the plate up.

    David Crane -

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    • Nun kannst du den Stecker des Akkus lösen und ihn leicht zur Seite biegen.

    • Beim Model EVA-L09 klebt auf dem Akku eine NFC-Antenne.

    • Achte darauf, die Antenne nicht zu knicken oder reißen.

    • Wenn du den Akku nur ausbaust, um an das Display zu gelangen, kannst du die NFC-Antenne am Akku lassen.

    • Zum Zusammenbau musst du die NFC-Antenne an der gleiche Stelle wieder auf den Akku setzen, sodass die Kontakte zueinander passen.

    Just changed (05/2020) the battery on an EVA-L09 model and could not see an NFC antenna. There were no other cables leading to the battery unless it was integrated within the power ribbon somehow. Will have to wait and see after the first charge has finished to see if I still have NFC. No biggy as I never used it. Could really use a picture or some way to show where it should/could be. Thanks.

    Jimbo -

    It should look somewhat similar to the P9 lite NFC antenna seen in this guide: Huawei P9 Lite Akku austauschen

    Tobias Isakeit -

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    • Lege die beiden Enden der Klebestreifen frei, damit du gleich einen guten Halt hast.

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    • Die Batterie ist mit drei Klebestreifen befestigt. In der Mitte und an dem SIM-Einschub befindet sich eine abnehmbare Lasche zum Ziehen. Ein dritter Klebestreifen an der Seite des Buttons hat keine Lasche.

    • Ziehe die Klebestreifen so flach wie möglich und in einer gleichmäßigen Bewegung heraus.

    • Sollten die Klebestreifen reißen, kannst du sie mit einem iOpener ein wenig erwärmen und dann mit einem Spudger den Akku vorsichtig von oben herausheben.

    • Direkt unter dem Akku verlaufen zwei Flachbandkabel. Sei vorsichtig, damit du sie nicht beschädigst, wenn du mit dem Spudger den Akku löst. Im letzten Bild siehst du, wo die Kabel verlaufen.

    • Hebe den Akku langsam hoch, um ihn vom letzten versteckten Stück Klebeband zu lösen.

    • Ersetze beim Zusammenbau deines Smartphones den alten Kleber durch elastische Klebestreifen, doppelseitiges Klebeband oder vorgestanzte Klebestreifen.

    Hi, does the LCD Screen and Digitizer Assembly with frame come with new adhesive tabs or battery stickers? I read that if there are no stickers the battery could move and cause damage. Please let me know, i would like to be sure before i place my order.

    Javier -

    Hi Javier! The P9 display kit does have battery adhesive. It’s visible as two orange strips, which are the adhesive release liners. We’ll be sure to specify it better in the component list. Thanks for asking!

    Sam Goldheart -

    Merci mille fois à l’auteur de ce tuto qui est vraiment super

    Jean-luc 11/12/2018

    jean-luc maitay -

    Removing the battery was a bit hard. The tape broke, so it was not easy to remove the battery. I didn't use the Iopener to heat it. I finally succeeded to remove it.

    I do noticed that the battery was very flexible. Wondering if this means she's very old or is it normal after charging a lot of times, or is or maybe because it got humid (my phone is sometimes damped when I have it my shirt when cycling). Compared to the new battery it's a huge difference.

    Steven -

    Those batteries are allways soft. So, don‘t worry.

    Mathias -

    It will be easyer, if you remove first the mainborad and then the battery. That’s my experience after the repair of this phone.

    Albert Dreistein -

    Hi, what does it mean

    use the iopener for heating the stickers

    ?

    Does it mean that for this operation it is used a hot air gun? I watched the ifixit page of iopener, but I didn't see such a gun

    Pinuzza -

    Hi Pinuzza,

    you can find our iOpener here. It is a tool to gently loose adhesive with heat. A heat gun is a more radical way and should be used carefully. You can easily damage components by overheating them. Here is a guide how to use our iOpener.

    Dominik Schnabelrauch -

    @Dominik: First af all thank you very much for the reply and for the extremely detailed guide. I've seen many tutorials, and I put this as the best one, because it considers very important aspects, e.g. to be careful about the electronic components below the battery, the fact that there are 3 stickers, and so on. That said, I have some doubt about iOpener (the same item I had seen and referred to previously): I cannot distinguish 1) the item below the picks and on the left side of the screwdriver, 2) the item on the right side of the picks, 3) the item below the suction cup. Above all, I have an enormous doubt and curiosity about the fact that this tool allows an easy extraction of the battery even heating the stickers, i.e., what tool in the packet should it be the candidate for this purpose, and how?

    Pinuzza -

    (How can it heat?)

    Pinuzza -

    Perhaps can I heat biadhesive stickers using a plastic rod? Perhaps like primitives did, quickly rubbing blades of straw? If I don't understand exactly, I can't buy anything

    Pinuzza -

    @Dominik, I've just seen the iOpener guide you linked. However, I'm not able to understand: Have I to put all the items of the tool in a microwave? Why heat a screwdriver or the suction cup? I can't see how this could heat the adhesives: they are below, protected by battery.. how heat may reach them?

    Pinuzza -

    @Pinuzza you only need to place the iOpener in the microwave, not every tool that is needed for the repair. Heat up the iOpener as explained and it will save the heat. Place it on the areas where the adhesive sits underneath the battery/display/etc. Leave the iOpener in its place for at least two minutes so that the heat can reach the adhesive. This will work through the battery, display and/or a circuit board. This way you’ll loosen the adhesive, what makes the removal significantly easier.

    Dominik Schnabelrauch -

    @Dominik, okay now it’s more clear, but I can't understand exactly what is the iOpener in the image you linked (I think iOpener be the name of the entire tool). I see a black fabric case (with iOpener label) which seems to contain all the repair items.. is this the heater? Or the two transparent underneath rectangle?

    Pinuzza -

    Hi Pinuzza,

    the black fabric case you see in the picture is the iOpener. There’s a liquid in the fabric sleeve that saves heat. This is why you place the iOpener in the microwave to save heat there and then on your device to soften adhesive afterwards. All other parts in the picture are tools for repairing, prying and to cut adhesive. From left to right: screwdriver, 6 opening picks (flat tool to cut adhesive e.g. during a screen removal), blue flat battery blocker (is used if you can’t disconnect the battery in an easy way e.g. in an iPad you can slide it between the connectors), suction cup to pull up displays or rear covers, plastic card (bigger tool to cut adhesive in hard to reach areas e.g under bigger battery packs), the blue opening tool (to cut adhesive and prying tool), tweezers, spudger (all-purpose prying tool to cut adhesive and/or disconnect cables). In this guide you can see that you only place the iOpener in the microwave. All other tools are packed separately and not in the black fabric.

    Dominik Schnabelrauch -

    @Dominik, thank you very much for the detailed reply! Now it's all clear!

    (And compliments for the very well supplied and assorted store…and tutorials :)

    Pinuzza -

    Would be useful to see recommended points to place the spudger to lever out the battery. I used the corners at the top (i.e. at the edge where the plate I couldn’t remove!) and slowly forced out the battery (which did bend quite a bit).

    David Crane -

    These phones are now about 3 or 4 years old and the adhesive has had time to bake pretty hard. Of course the tabs break off as described. Without the iOpener I used a hair dryer on low fan, hi heat intermittently for about 5 minutes and used three spudgers under the battery using the guide picture of the ribbon cables under the battery to choose the safe places for the spudgers. You have to shift them as you ease it out as the small ribbon cable weaves to the centre. Like others have said, the battery bent and distorted to an alarming amount and I was glad I had discharged it to almost flat following the guide.

    J B Graham -

    Replacing a dead battery in 2020. Sticky tabs snapped of course. I lifted the battery up ever so slightly with a long flat spudger/spade so I could get the fine tweezers in there a grab as much as I could. Seems to be the top half inch/1.5cm that’s baked and brittle. The rest came out with no fuss.

    I have the EVA-L09 model but could not find an NFC antenna so… kinda hoping for the best once I’m done charging. Could there be a photo added of one if at all possible?

    Jimbo -

    Si vous n’avez pas de iOpener, vous pouvez utiliser une poche de gel chaud/froid pour les contusions (ex Actipoche)

    If you don't have an iOpener, you can use a hot/cold gel pouch for bruises (ex Actipoche)

    Karine JALLEY -

    Merci a ce tutto qui est vraiment tres bien mis a part que pour ouvrir le tellephone la ventouse ne suffit pas il faut utiliser un spatule (spudger) en faisant appui par la prise usb c et pour decoller la batterie il faut prendre une pince car elle est vraiment collé fort sinon vraiement tres bien ce tutto!!

    boos -

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    • Entferne die anderen fünf Kreuzschlitzschrauben #00 vom Motherboard.

    • Löse das Motherboard Flexkabel sowie das Kabel zur Lautstärkeregelung und zur Einschalttaste.

    Achtung! Ich habe vergessen, links das Kabel von den seitlichen Knöpfen zu entfernen! Ersatz kostet 100€ ca…

    Michael Schwarz -

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    • Löse den Stecker des LCD-Kabels.

    • Nun kannst du das komplette Motherboard leicht entfernen.

    • Praktischerweise werden sowohl die Front- als auch die Rückkamera gleich mit dem Motherboard entfernt.

    • Entferne den Ohrhörer-Lautsprecher (beachte den Klebstoff darunter).

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    • Erhitze den oberen Teil des Glases mit einem Heißluftgebläse oder einem iOpener.

    • Der verwendete Klebstoff ist sehr hartnäckig und verlangt Geduld und eine sanfte aber stetige Kraftanwendung.

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    • Ist der Klebstoff weich genug, kannst du von der Rückseite her durch die Kameraaussparung zwischen Rahmen und Display gelangen.

    • Platziere eine Plastikkarte oder zwei Plektren unter die Displayblende ganz oben zwischen Bildschirm und Rahmen. Dies verhindert ein erneutes Zusammenkleben.

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    • Nimm ein Opening Pick (Plektrum)und führe es ca. 1,5mm tief an beiden Seiten entlang bis nach unten, um den Rahmen vom Display zu trennen.

    • Du merkst einen etwas stärkeren Widerstand am unteren Bereich, wo das LCD endet.

    • Halte dort an und nimm dir etwas Zeit, um die Stelle nochmals zu erhitzen.

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    • Wenn der Klebstoff weich genug ist, kannst du mit dem Opening Pick um die untere Ecke fahren.

    • Arbeite dich am unteren Rand entlang.

    • Lasse das Pick auf einer Seite stecken und drehe das Display um.

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    • Auf der Rückseite löst du das Flachbandkabel der Displayeinheit vom Rahmen.

    • Nun kannst du das Display vom Rahmen abnehmen.

    • Prüfe, ob du auch nichts verloren hast, wie zum Beispiel die Gummimuffe oben hinter dem Lautsprechergitter.

Abschluss

Arbeite die Schritte in umgekehrter Reihenfolge ab, um dein Gerät wieder zusammenzubauen.

Tinte & Feder

Dominik Schnabelrauch

Mitglied seit: 23/11/16

167773 Reputation

14 Kommentare

While the guide shows pictures along the process it doesn't really give the whole picture.

Just one example: as a repair guide, you could easily expect the display to be cracked and you can no longer use a suction cup to open it up.

A bigger issue is that the guide doesn't show steps up to the replacement part listed.

An incomplete guide while still providing enough information to help someone with experience in repairs.

Seth -

ifixit sent me screen and digitizer without the metal frame. is there a way to remove the metal frame and add it to the replacement screen? does ifixit sell screen and digitizer with the metal frame?

david cech -

you guys are killing me... first you sell the display without the frame even though your instructions clearly show the frame and now it is exactly the same story with a middle frame screen... why it is not part of your display package since it is necessary for the replacement and once again showed in instructional video?

david cech -

Hello David, I am very sorry for the confusion. The guide was not congruent with the spare part in the shop. Having a display assembly with the frame already attached would be more convenient and an easier repair. Though the display without the frame is a bit cheaper but makes the guide more complex (hence the rating "difficult").

What instructional video do you mean? Is it for another device?

Tobias Isakeit -

Please sir let me know if I replace the only screen is it not effect to battery. Because someone told me if I have replace screen it should need whole cover with battery . Please tell me is it true or not

Anurudda Weerasekara -

Hello Anurudda, When replacing the display you need to take out the battery (and everything else mounted on the back of the display). But you can put it back in afterwards. You do not have to replace the battery with a new one.

Tobias Isakeit -

I’m done with the tutorial and it worked… well, partially.

If the strips of the Battery can’t be completely removed, you got heavy problems to get the battery out. I got no grip with my fingers, so I try to Lever the battery with a sprudger. I accedentily punctured it, so I needed a new one. (another 20$ for me) :(

One week later, I got the new battery and a new Display Unit (the first one was without the Frame and i struggeled to seperate the Screen andthe old Frame. So I bought the new one and done the rest of the repair.

The Problem now, is that the phone doesn’t fit in the backcase anymore and I Need to press the Phone into the case from time to time.

Another Thing is, that the touch has it’s Problems now, cause is doesn’t regonize my Thumb or the frontside of my finger, while the side of the finger is regonized by the Phone.

Don’t know, what it caused. Maybe you know an answer for that.

Mick Trompke -

I too had an issue with the battery, however contact cleaner eats the adhesive and makes it much easier to remove with the spudger. In regards to your touch issues i would think its possibly a poor/faulty part and a new one may fix that issue.

Matthew Hurley -

I have replaced my screen and had a problem getting the battery out and bent it slightly it now turns off at 60% charge! also as Mick has said the phone does not clip fully back into the rear housing, it is the edge that has the lock and volume buttons. Anyone know how to make it stay in place?

Jake Breakwell -

Same problem here, genuine new screen (140€!!) doesn’t clip fully in the housing !! Had a prof. technician do the work. After first new screen i had continuously shutdowns out of the blue, even while charging or sleep mode (up to 6x a day, very annoying when you depend on Waze for work!!). Screen didn’t clip back at the connector side. Complained about it, tried factory reset, apps uninstalled, still shutdowns. Tried to explain him that the screen works as a heatsink for the CPU and if it’s not properly clipped it doesn’t touch the CPU (pink heat paste) for cooling and it might thermal shutdown for overheat protection, but he didn’t believe me. I asked for another new screen, NO MORE SHUTDOWNS, but still the same problem with the housing (it’s even worse after 3 attempts). Technician says the housing is slightly bent… but no matter how hard i look, i don’t see it, even when i place the phone on a flat surface. Anyone a solution for this?

Christophe Tribolet -

OK, so i found out what caused my screen not to fit in it’s case… There were already rubbers installed on the new one where the earspeaker and camera are located. Especially the prox. detector had a big one. It was the technician who forgot to remove them !! I used the iSclack, wich is great for opening smartphones… just squeeze and open it goes. The pro tech toolkit comes very complete with everything you might need.

Christophe Tribolet -

Hiya,

I've just replaced the screen of my phone and it works properly on the main page but I can't scroll. Do you have an idea what's the problem?

Thanks a lot

torokzoltan108 -

Why will it not power on

Sabrina Stults -