MacBook Air 11" Anfang 2014 Akku austauschen

Geschrieben von: Miroslav Djuric
  • Kommentare: 39
MacBook Air 11" Anfang 2014 Akku austauschen

Schwierigkeitsgrad

Mittel

Schritte

5

Zeitaufwand

15 Minuten

Einleitung

Befreie dich von deinem Ladegerät, indem du den Akku austauschst.

Hinweis: Falls sich ein dünner Plastikfilm auf deinem Ersatzakku befindet, versuche nicht ihn zu entfernen. Er ist festgeklebt und schützt den Akku im Inneren des MacBooks.

  1. 2uMPhxrYSdfxumSQ

    • Schalte den Computer aus. Lege ihn auf eine weiche Oberfläche mit der Vorderseite nach unten.

    • Entferne folgende Schrauben:

    • Zwei 8mm 5-point Pentalobe Schrauben

    • Acht 2,5 mm 5-point Pentalobe Schrauben

    • Den speziellen Schraubendreher für die 5-point Pentalobe Schrauben findest du hier.

    When you say:

    Remove the following ten screws:

    Two 8 mm 5-point Pentalobe screws

    Eight 2.5 mm 5-point Pentalobe screws

    Do the 8mm & 2.5mm dimensions refer to the LENGTH of those screws, or the size of the pentalobe? That is, are there other sizes of pentalobe drivers like there are for hex, phillips and torx? When only one dimension is provided, it is usually the socket/driver size, not the screw length, maybe since the length cannot be seen when the screw is installed.

    Can I suggest that you clarify your instructions so folks are confident they are only in need of _one_ pentalobe driver?

    Nerdily yours,

    Larry (whose iPhone 4S can now get through a day without 6 recharges thanks to ifixit.com ;-)

    larryleveen -

    The 8mm and 2.5mm are the length of the screws. One pentalobe P5 screwdriver suffices for all the screws (P5 is implicitly the size of the pentalobe screw heads).

    Michael Welham -

    I sourced all the parts from ifixit, plus a magnetic project mat which I found to be very useful for organising the teardown and reassembly.

    Allen -

    The magnetic mat is

    GERARD SZAREK -

    Keep the 2.5mm tiny screws away from the MagSafe connector as they will be attracted and sucked in to the magnet.

    Frank O'Carroll -

    A tip an old bench tech taught me that has saved me many times: I put clear “Scotch” tape over the case screws as they became “free”. The tape kept them in place while I lifted the lid off, cleaned it etc.

    Michael Mee -

    Thank you for a really smart tip! I will be using that countless more times!

    Lilljedahl -

    I’m confused about internet recovery and installing MacOS. Is all of this done before placing in the new ssd card or after. I don’t have any files that I would like to safe/transfer, is all of this necessary, if I don’t do it before placing new ssd, will I still be able to instal/upgrade macOS afterwards.

    It’s an old Mac and now it won’t start or charge, I know I will have to replace battery and put new battery first and turn on Mac before doing the ssd stuff. Since it won’t effing start.

    I’m really clueless about backing up old ssd, since I don’t need any files, besides MacOS(software) ,and is that related to the ssd?

    AMG -

    The answer to your question: You need to insert your SSD into the computer before internet recovery. If you start the recovery before inserting SSD, it won’t affect the setup, you won’t damage anything. But your SSD will not be detected (as there isn’t one inserted.)

    Also, a little tip: If you bought a used SSD, go into Disk Utility and format the drive with the highest security level to permanently remove all of the previous files.

    Also a FYI: Internet Recovery will load up Mac OS X 10.9.5 Mavericks, so I would recommend making a recovery drive from a Big Sur (or desired version) through another Mac, and a USB. You can visit this support doc: https://support.apple.com/en-us/HT201372

    Hope this helps! -Dan

    danielwen -

    I got a macbook air with a damaged and swollen battery. I could remove all screws, except one 2,5 mm screw. I’m afraid it got damaged while attempting to remove it, I have no grip with the P5 pentalobe screwdriver. How can I proceed?

    Robert Hermans -

    Hi Robert!

    Try some techniques found in this stripped screw removal guide. Good luck!

    Arthur Shi -

    Hello I have a macbook air they are say they do not have parts for my laptop macbook air 11 inches 2013 mid need to replace battery which one to buy

    vensilver -

    Hello! This is the part you want—maybe we’re not able to ship it to you if you’re out of the United States. The battery in your MacBook Air should be the same for all 11” between mid-2011 to early-2015.

    Arthur Shi -

    The smaller screws went in more easily when I put back all the screws along the hinge edge first.

    Rachel Slatkin -

  2. yuZ5Ls2UHZLyfewD

    • Zwänge deine Finger zwischen Display und Gehäuseunterteil und ziehe nach oben, damit es sich vom Air löst.

  3. iI44jvS3VB5gDqgf
    iI44jvS3VB5gDqgf
    cvTOwb4xAQgYAxI1

    • In diesem Schritt wirst du den Akku abtrennen, damit es während der Reparatur keinen Kurzschluss gibt.

    • Hebele den Akkustecker an beiden kurzen Seiten mit dem flachen Ende des Spudgers hoch, um ihn aus seinem Anschluss auf dem Logic Board zu lösen.

    • Biege das Akkukabel ein wenig vom Logic Board weg, so dass sich der Stecker nicht versehentlich wieder mit dem Anschluss verbinden kann.

    When reassembling the connector wire needs to be bent to fit.

    GERARD SZAREK -

  4. sIXbWDP2In2NMV1Y

    • Löse folgende fünf Torx T5 Schrauben, welche den Akku am oberen Gehäuse befestigen:

    • Zwei 5,2 mm Schrauben

    • Eine 6 mm Schraube

    • Zwei 2,6 mm Schrauben

    Be carful with the torque when reassembling, these screws seem able to go a little too far and crack through the plastic of the battery.

    Daniel Schlaug -

    To elaborate on Daniel’s comment, particularly the middle 6mm screw seems to have a lot of range and can be over-tightened. I stopped and backed it off a little when it appeared to be deforming the cell to the left.

    Jeff Snider -

    After replacing the battery (IF108-063-2) I found the trackpad click pressure to be noticeably higher. The plastic frame on the replacement bowed out some just above the logos below the center cells, pressing on the trackpad once the lower case was reattached. I used some gentle heat from a hot air gun (I used about 150º C) to soften the plastic and bend it back down. This reduced the pressure on the trackpad.

    Jeff Snider -

    I'm having the same issue. I got the -2 instead of -1 battery also for some reason. iFixit is this advised??

    Amanda Silber -

  5. fULdQUyCMwNXraXE

    • Wenn du am Akku arbeitest, vermeide es, die sechs offenliegenden Lithium-Polymer-Zellen anzufassen oder zu drücken.

    • Hebe den Akku an der Kante an, die dem Logic Board am nächsten ist, und entferne ihn aus dem oberen Gehäuse.

    • Wenn du einen neuen Akku einbaust, solltest du ihn nach dem Einbau kalibrieren:

    • Lade ihn auf 100% auf und lasse ihn noch weitere zwei Stunden laden. Benutze dann dein Gerät normal bis es sich von selbst ausschaltet. Vergiss nicht, rechtzeitig deine Arbeit abzuspeichern. Warte mindestens 5 Stunden und lade dann deinen Laptop ohne Unterbrechung auf 100 % auf.

    • Wenn du irgendwelche Probleme oder Ähnliches nach dem Einbau deines neuen Akkus feststellst, musst du unter Umständen die SMC deines MacBooks zurücksetzen.

    The instructions that come with the BRTONG replacement battery state the following:

    1) Discharge it to 2% (quite specific) and then charge to 100% at the first cycle after purchasing

    2) Do not discharge the battery pack to 0% as that will damage the battery pack and shorten its life (this does not specify WHEN not to do it. Only during the first cycle?)

    This is very different from the ifixit instructions above , but ifixit could be referring just to the calibration, which could be done AFTER the first cycle, and the manufacturer could be referring just to the first cycle, and not to the calibration. I am not sure what to do. But I guess I will follow the manufacturer instructions during the first (and second, to be safe) cycles, and THEN follow the ifixit instructions for calibration.

    Fernando -

    Discharging the battery all the way to zero does shorten the battery life slightly, but it’s necessary for a proper calibration. Without calibration, the 2% reading is kind of meaningless, since the system can’t get an accurate % reading until after calibration (that’s the whole point of calibration). I’d follow the iFixit instructions (which are also Apple’s instructions) and ignore whatever that battery vendor sent you. You can find more background on calibration here.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    just thanks!

    liza -

    What do I do with the old battery?

    John Hammer -

    Good question! Please take the old battery to an e-waste facility.

    Arthur Shi -

    Does it matter what OS is running on the computer during battery calibration? (my laptop is dual boot Linux and MacOS)

    John Haiducek -

    I’m putting in the new battery on a MacBook Air 11’ 2015 and the new battery has a black foam piece on top of the connector that seems to be glued on. Do I remove that?

    Mark Marchant -

Abschluss

Um dein Gerät wieder zusammenzusetzen, folge den Schritten in umgekehrter Reihenfolge.

Tinte & Feder

Miroslav Djuric

156735 Reputation

13 Kommentare

Surprisingly easy for Apple.

Jake -

Pretty easy; good instructions. Had to fiddle a bit to get the battery back in with a good connection because the battery cable was stiff.

Battery passed Tech Tool Pro’s check.

Nancy D Morrison -

Had same problem getting battery connector in due to stiff cable (which was also a little bit to the right of the target). My solution was to first push the stiff battery cable wires down using a spudger, and then I was able to push the connector into place.

Kevin B -

La batterie du MacBook Air début 2014 est assez simple à changer, c'est même étonnamment simple compte tenu qu'il s'agisse d'un ordinateur Apple.

Le seul point auquel il faut faire attention et qui n'est pas précisé dans le tutoriel, c'est le rangement du câble de la batterie, il faut le plier correctement comme sur l'ancienne batterie afin d'être en mesure de pouvoir brancher la batterie à l'ordinateur une fois celle-ci revissée. Car le câble de la batterie vendue par iFixit est très rigide.

Brendan -

Is there any difference between Macbook Air 11” Early 2014 and Mid 2013 ??

Different battery type/shape maybe?

Dr.Beardface -

Easy as 1-2-3. Especially with the iFixit tool set. I have a MacBook Air Early 2014, which still works like a charm. And now with a new battery. Thanks guys!

KeinExperte -

Wow this was a breeze. Thanks iFixIt Team!!

Michael Smith -

Pretty easy to follow and put together. The new battery connector (from iFixit) seemed a little long and was slightly difficult to connect. It just needed a little wiggling to snap into place though.

Jordan Gundersen -

I agree with the other comments that it’s easy except for fitting the battery connector to the logic board. As others have said, pushing it toward the battery a bit to get a good bend in the cable solved the problem.

brjaffe -

This was easy. Danke schön!

Jane Dot W -

Has anyone else had problems with their trackpad having some play in it after battery replacement? Before battery replacement, my trackpad was solid (and regular and tap click both worked fine). After replacement, it needs to be pushed down ever so slightly before it engages (means when you go to do a tap click, the pad depresses a little bit, which it should not do). It is still solid closer to they keyboard, but has the play gradually increase as you move toward the front of the laptop). I also had some trouble with the cable being a bit stiff and hard to reconnect the battery as a result. Possible that the stiff cable is preventing proper fit and resulting in trackpad play?

Aaron -

I purchased a replacement battery and just completed the replacement. The battery that arrived for me has a thin plastic film on it, but not just on the individual cells as pictured in this note in the guide: "Note: If there is a thin plastic film on your replacement battery, do not attempt to remove it. It is glued on and protects the battery pack while it is inside the MacBook." Again, the plastic film on the battery I received looks different from what is pictured in the note I quoted above, and it also does not seem to be glued on. So, is the plastic film really something I should keep on the battery? How can I know for sure? Why aren't clear instructions on something like this included with the purchased product? It is not clear to me whether that plastic film is on the product simply for shipping purposes, or for actual use purposes.

Aaron -

I HAVE MACBOOK AIR MODEL A1466,is this battery fit my model

Khalid Alobiedat -