MacBook Air 11" Anfang 2015 linken Lautsprecher austauschen

Geschrieben von: Sam Goldheart

Kommentare: 27

MacBook Air 11" Anfang 2015 linken Lautsprecher austauschen

Schwierigkeitsgrad

Mittel

Schritte

Zeitaufwand

Keine Schätzung

Einleitung

Hier wird der Austausch eines defekten linken Lautsprechers gezeigt. Bei normalem Gebrauch befindet sich dieser Lautsprecher auf der linken Seite des Laptops. Bei vielen Fotos siehst du ihn auf der rechten Seite, sei dir sicher, dass du am Richtigen arbeitest und auch das richtige Ersatzteil hast.

Werkzeuge

Ersatzteile

MacBook Air 11" (Mid 2013 to Early 2015) Left Speaker

Schritt 1

Schalte den Computer aus. Lege ihn auf eine weiche Oberfläche mit der Vorderseite nach unten.
Entferne folgende Schrauben:
Zwei 8mm 5-point Pentalobe Schrauben
Acht 2,5 mm 5-point Pentalobe Schrauben
Den speziellen Schraubendreher für die 5-point Pentalobe Schrauben findest du hier.

When you say:

Remove the following ten screws:

Two 8 mm 5-point Pentalobe screws

Eight 2.5 mm 5-point Pentalobe screws

Do the 8mm & 2.5mm dimensions refer to the LENGTH of those screws, or the size of the pentalobe? That is, are there other sizes of pentalobe drivers like there are for hex, phillips and torx? When only one dimension is provided, it is usually the socket/driver size, not the screw length, maybe since the length cannot be seen when the screw is installed.

Can I suggest that you clarify your instructions so folks are confident they are only in need of _one_ pentalobe driver?

Nerdily yours,

Larry (whose iPhone 4S can now get through a day without 6 recharges thanks to ifixit.com ;-)

larryleveen - 16/05/15

The 8mm and 2.5mm are the length of the screws. One pentalobe P5 screwdriver suffices for all the screws (P5 is implicitly the size of the pentalobe screw heads).

Michael Welham - 11/06/15

I sourced all the parts from ifixit, plus a magnetic project mat which I found to be very useful for organising the teardown and reassembly.

Allen - 04/08/15

The magnetic mat is

GERARD SZAREK - 30/06/18

Keep the 2.5mm tiny screws away from the MagSafe connector as they will be attracted and sucked in to the magnet.

Frank O'Carroll - 04/11/18

A tip an old bench tech taught me that has saved me many times: I put clear “Scotch” tape over the case screws as they became “free”. The tape kept them in place while I lifted the lid off, cleaned it etc.

Michael Mee - 18/11/19

Thank you for a really smart tip! I will be using that countless more times!

Lilljedahl - 24/11/20

I’m confused about internet recovery and installing MacOS. Is all of this done before placing in the new ssd card or after. I don’t have any files that I would like to safe/transfer, is all of this necessary, if I don’t do it before placing new ssd, will I still be able to instal/upgrade macOS afterwards.

It’s an old Mac and now it won’t start or charge, I know I will have to replace battery and put new battery first and turn on Mac before doing the ssd stuff. Since it won’t effing start.

I’m really clueless about backing up old ssd, since I don’t need any files, besides MacOS(software) ,and is that related to the ssd?

AMG - 17/05/20

The answer to your question: You need to insert your SSD into the computer before internet recovery. If you start the recovery before inserting SSD, it won’t affect the setup, you won’t damage anything. But your SSD will not be detected (as there isn’t one inserted.)

Also, a little tip: If you bought a used SSD, go into Disk Utility and format the drive with the highest security level to permanently remove all of the previous files.

Also a FYI: Internet Recovery will load up Mac OS X 10.9.5 Mavericks, so I would recommend making a recovery drive from a Big Sur (or desired version) through another Mac, and a USB. You can visit this support doc: https://support.apple.com/en-us/HT201372

Hope this helps! -Dan

danielwen - 10/02/21

I got a macbook air with a damaged and swollen battery. I could remove all screws, except one 2,5 mm screw. I’m afraid it got damaged while attempting to remove it, I have no grip with the P5 pentalobe screwdriver. How can I proceed?

Robert Hermans - 29/03/21

Hi Robert!

Try some techniques found in this stripped screw removal guide. Good luck!

Arthur Shi - 30/03/21

Hello I have a macbook air they are say they do not have parts for my laptop macbook air 11 inches 2013 mid need to replace battery which one to buy

vensilver -

Hello! This is the part you want—maybe we’re not able to ship it to you if you’re out of the United States. The battery in your MacBook Air should be the same for all 11” between mid-2011 to early-2015.

Arthur Shi - 18/08/21

The smaller screws went in more easily when I put back all the screws along the hinge edge first.

Rachel Slatkin -

Schritt 2

Zwänge deine Finger zwischen Display und Gehäuseunterteil und ziehe nach oben, damit es sich vom Air löst.

Schritt 3

In diesem Schritt wirst du den Akku abtrennen, damit es während der Reparatur keinen Kurzschluss gibt.
Hebele den Akkustecker an beiden kurzen Seiten mit dem flachen Ende des Spudgers hoch, um ihn aus seinem Anschluss auf dem Logic Board zu lösen.
Biege das Akkukabel ein wenig vom Logic Board weg, so dass sich der Stecker nicht versehentlich wieder mit dem Anschluss verbinden kann.

When reassembling the connector wire needs to be bent to fit.

GERARD SZAREK - 30/06/18

Schritt 4

Löse folgende fünf Torx T5 Schrauben, welche den Akku am oberen Gehäuse befestigen:
Zwei 5,2 mm Schrauben
Eine 6 mm Schraube
Zwei 2,6 mm Schrauben

Be carful with the torque when reassembling, these screws seem able to go a little too far and crack through the plastic of the battery.

Daniel Schlaug - 27/02/16

To elaborate on Daniel’s comment, particularly the middle 6mm screw seems to have a lot of range and can be over-tightened. I stopped and backed it off a little when it appeared to be deforming the cell to the left.

Jeff Snider - 01/01/19

After replacing the battery (IF108-063-2) I found the trackpad click pressure to be noticeably higher. The plastic frame on the replacement bowed out some just above the logos below the center cells, pressing on the trackpad once the lower case was reattached. I used some gentle heat from a hot air gun (I used about 150º C) to soften the plastic and bend it back down. This reduced the pressure on the trackpad.

Jeff Snider - 01/01/19

I'm having the same issue. I got the -2 instead of -1 battery also for some reason. iFixit is this advised??

Amanda Silber -

Schritt 5

Wenn du am Akku arbeitest, vermeide es, die sechs offenliegenden Lithium-Polymer-Zellen anzufassen oder zu drücken.
Hebe den Akku an der Kante an, die dem Logic Board am nächsten ist, und entferne ihn aus dem oberen Gehäuse.
Wenn du einen neuen Akku einbaust, solltest du ihn nach dem Einbau kalibrieren:
Lade ihn auf 100% auf und lasse ihn noch weitere zwei Stunden laden. Benutze dann dein Gerät normal bis es sich von selbst ausschaltet. Vergiss nicht, rechtzeitig deine Arbeit abzuspeichern. Warte mindestens 5 Stunden und lade dann deinen Laptop ohne Unterbrechung auf 100 % auf.
Wenn du irgendwelche Probleme oder Ähnliches nach dem Einbau deines neuen Akkus feststellst, musst du unter Umständen die SMC deines MacBooks zurücksetzen.

The instructions that come with the BRTONG replacement battery state the following:

1) Discharge it to 2% (quite specific) and then charge to 100% at the first cycle after purchasing

2) Do not discharge the battery pack to 0% as that will damage the battery pack and shorten its life (this does not specify WHEN not to do it. Only during the first cycle?)

This is very different from the ifixit instructions above , but ifixit could be referring just to the calibration, which could be done AFTER the first cycle, and the manufacturer could be referring just to the first cycle, and not to the calibration. I am not sure what to do. But I guess I will follow the manufacturer instructions during the first (and second, to be safe) cycles, and THEN follow the ifixit instructions for calibration.

Fernando - 29/06/19

Discharging the battery all the way to zero does shorten the battery life slightly, but it’s necessary for a proper calibration. Without calibration, the 2% reading is kind of meaningless, since the system can’t get an accurate % reading until after calibration (that’s the whole point of calibration). I’d follow the iFixit instructions (which are also Apple’s instructions) and ignore whatever that battery vendor sent you. You can find more background on calibration here.

Jeff Suovanen - 01/07/19

just thanks!

liza - 20/10/20

What do I do with the old battery?

John Hammer -

Good question! Please take the old battery to an e-waste facility.

Arthur Shi -

Does it matter what OS is running on the computer during battery calibration? (my laptop is dual boot Linux and MacOS)

John Haiducek -

I’m putting in the new battery on a MacBook Air 11’ 2015 and the new battery has a black foam piece on top of the connector that seems to be glued on. Do I remove that?

Mark Marchant -

Schritt 6

Hebele den Stecker am Kabel zum I/O Board mit dem flachen Ende des Spudgers hoch und aus seinem Anschluss auf dem I/O Board.
Biege das Kabel weg vom I/O Board.

Schritt 7

Fädle das Kabel zum linken Lautsprecher mit der Spudgerspitze aus dem Einschnitt in der Kante des I/O Boards.

in my case, the non-original speaker replacement cable was not long enough to go into the notch cut, so I had to leave it loose but was kept in place by the I/O board cable connector, so all good in the end

Francesco - 04/01/20

Schritt 8

Hebele den Stecker zum linken Lautsprecher mit dem flachen Ende des Spudgers hoch und aus seinem Anschluss auf dem I/O Board heraus.
Achte darauf, unter den Drähten nach oben zu hebeln.

Schritt 9

Löse den linken Lautsprecher mit dem flachen Ende des Spudgers aus der Klebeverbindung zum oberen Gehäuse.
Hebele im oberen Gehäuse nur an Stellen aus blankem Aluminium . Wenn du im Bereich der Tastatur hebelst, könntest du die Tastatur und den Lautsprecher selbst beschädigen.