MacBook Pro (15 Zoll, Mitte 2010, Unibody) LCD austauschen

Geschrieben von: Andrew Bookholt
  • Kommentare: 94
MacBook Pro (15 Zoll, Mitte 2010, Unibody) LCD austauschen

Schwierigkeitsgrad

Sehr schwierig

Schritte

36

Zeitaufwand

3 Stunden

Einleitung

Spare Geld und tausche nur das LCD und nicht das komplette Display aus. Diese Anleitung passt nicht für entspiegelte Displays.

  1. cJVilSAppmEKRtFW

    • Entferne die zehn Schrauben, die das obere und das untere Gehäuse zusammenhalten.

    • Drei 13,5 mm (14,1 mm) Kreuzschlitzschrauben.

    • Sieben 3 mm Kreuzschlitzschrauben.

    • Schaue dir beim Ausdrehen der Schrauben genau an, wie sie leicht schräg herauskommen. Beim Zusammenbau muss das genauso sein.

    Step 1 (technically step 9 - replacing the base plate) Apparently one of my screws was a micron or two smaller than the others. This screw belongs to the hole above the optical drive, which is also apparently a couple of microns smaller than the others. It took seven attempts to figure which screw had originally been in that hole; all the other screws were too large, but fitted perfectly everywhere else.

    Bizarre much?

    Will -

    It might be a matter of how the screws are driven in, and not that they're slightly different sizes. When I reassembled my MacBook, a couple of the screws, including the one over the optical drive you mention, were hard to drive in and jutted up a little bit instead of sitting entirely flush. Swapping screws didn't help. The solution was to unscrew them and drive them in at a bit of an angle - perpendicular to the slightly curved surface of the back plate where the screw holes were, instead of fully vertical with respect to the ground the Macbook is sitting on. Doing it that way, the screws were easier to drive in and they all ended up flush in their holes. Didn't matter which screws they were. (I swapped a few around just to check after reading this.)

    Andrew Janke -

    I had no such screw issues. Either there are differences in manufacturing lots or I just got incredibly lucky during reassembly!

    xtophr -

    I discovered a great way of organizing the screws. I used an ice cube tray and added the screws in order, keeping the different kinds together. So when it came to reversing the steps, the screw order was an added control step to returning everything in its place.

    leonie -

    Great advise! Love it! :)

    Ririds -

    I used to do that and that worked really great until I bumped it by accident and the entire tray went on the rug! I spent the next day sorting things out.

    Now I use these:

    http://www.sciplus.com/p/50-114-CLEAR-PL...

    The lower ones 50 to a package. I mark them w/ blue tape. Often if it's part like the fans, or the optical drive I'll tape the screws into/near the holes where they belong. I did this a lot especially w/ the bottom screws from MBPs until I'd done so many I knew exactly where the longer ones went.

    Richard Sato -

    I wrapped the screws in a piece of blue masking tape and wrote the number on the little pouch I made. Then I stuck the blue tape pouches on the underside of the case bottom in order.

    Roscoe -

    I take double-sided tape, put that on a piece of paper, stick the crews to that, and label them.

    jelimoore -

    Best I've found is a bead sorting tray. They're like $5 at Wal-Mart and they have a lid that seals up and won't let them jump between containers.

    maccentric -

    I take a sheet of paper, pierce the screws through the paper, take a pen and box the screws and write out what step they belong to.

    Nils -

    @Will, in my case I had the same result as you did. As a reminder to myself the next time I need to open the computer, I put a dot of white paint on those two screw's head and a very, very thin ring of white on the very edge of each hole, that way I'll know they go into those two holes.

    Roger -

    Actually the four screws on the bottom were not threaded all the way up. I didn't check to see if the thread gauge was the same on them, but it wasn't until I had about four screws out (I didn't take them out in the order that the bottom all came out first) that I noticed a difference. I then took out the rest of the bottom ones to see if they matched the two that were already out that weren't threaded to the top. They did. So I went under the assumption that those were all bottom screws and when I put it back together everything went fine with no resistance.

    So there are three types of screws: Four for the bottom, three long ones as indicated and three others that might be slightly smaller than the bottom ones.

    wresnick -

    Hi,

    Although its more than a year since your contribution, I thought you might be amused to know that it is not just that the screws go in more easily when at an angle, Apple actually drilled and tapped the holes at a 15% angle. I too had tried to drive them in straight. An Apple "genius" - I was in for something else - clarified the design for me. It was done so that the screws lay flush on the angled part of the lower case. Nice design, but since Apple encourages DIY memory and drive changes, they could have mentioned this little ... trap.

    H Stahl -

    MacBookPro8,2

    Intel Core i7, 2,2 GHz, RAM 16 GB

    Mountain Lion

    May someone help me?

    I have installed the second drive with ssd 840 evo, but when I try to copy the file from the new drive to the main hd this in not allowed (errore -36)

    Piero -

    To my knowledge you can't transfer a single file more than 4gb. I advise compressing to a bunch of rars to split the file size and moving them individually

    1982sketcher -

    Hey everyone, here's the very best way to PERFECTLY organize your screws AND keep track of the order of the procedure: Get a piece of plain corrugated cardboard and a pen (I like using a Sharpie). For EACH step of the disassembly, draw a simple diagram of the layout of the computer on the piece of cardboard, with dots or Xs where the screws are located. Right after you remove each screw from the computer, poke a hole in the cardboard in its corresponding diagram position with your screwdriver and place the screw in that hole. If there are other non-screw related parts to be removed, you can add notes below each step diagram to remind you of where they go or how they should be placed. This cardboard method is great not only because your screws will not go flying or get mixed up by accident if bumped, but each screw goes EXACTLY back where it came from and you can keep the cardboard as a template for future use if necessary!

    - zerø K

    zeroK -

    These instructions worked great for me. I ordered a replacement battery from Key Power (on Amazon) for my 15" Macbook Pro (mid-2010). Cost was $74 shipped.

    Battery came with 3 different screwdrivers to help with installation. I just needed the one size though, since my 2010 seemed to use all the same size screws.

    Thanks!

    Marcos -

    During re-assembling (put the screws back in), it is important to note that the 3mm threaded holes are not completely vertical, but bent a little bit such that the hole direction is rectangular to the tapered surface. The force of the screwdriver must point towards the direction of the hole. Otherwise the screw gets jammed

    kusi -

    There is a FOOLPROOF WAY TO ORGANIZE ALL SCREWS and other parts removed.

    Print the repair guide.

    Yes, the actual photo of the bottom of the laptop with the circles around the screws.

    When you remove the screw, tape it to the photograph.

    You will tape the screw to the exact location that you just removed it from.

    Same thing with any part you remove.

    splashzoneent -

    Thanks Splash!!! I used your suggested method, and it was perfect: kept all my screws, and i was able to, very easily, put them back in their correct place. I greatly appreciated your feedback. Thank you for sharing!!

    Tommy Kedar -

    Thank you!!! This worked fabulously - even the I.T. people at my workplace were excited as they never thought to do that before. Replacing the battery took about 10 minutes!

    nclarke36 -

    Worked like a charm! Took less than 20 minutes.

    It's Oct. 2015, and the fan cost me about $10. it was the same brand/model...

    SUNON MG62090V1-Q020-S99 .

    SOME TRICKS -

    1- no T6 screwdriver- was careful using needle nose players to loosen 2 screws protruding up, then use a small phillips to push real hard into the T6 slots, SLOWLY turn , also used a small flat head screwdriver (for eye glass repair) was able to grab thread on T6's, made a small mark with screw driver across the top so I could see when it started to turn.

    2- no spudger -made one; cut a little strip 1/2" x 1 1/2" of plastic. couldn't get it to slide under plug, there's an edge where plug fits. so lifted old fan out, pulled upward on the plug it popped right out with very little effort. I used my home made spudger to push the new plug into place.

    3- download free "Macs Fan Control" This is how I was alerted to the fan not working in the first place. Program shows temperature of all key components in the computer.

    cheers- Durango CO!

    Dgodrummer -

    Watch the video first, read the entire tutorial and all the comments before you start, and spread a white towel on the floor so you can find screws when you drop them. Watch this first -- http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qiBxhA29e...

    kevicoll409 -

    The link above is no longer available.

    Kristina Graham -

    I will be buying a battery from you and using your instructions. I just installed a new CD/DVD using your instructions and 1) I feel like I owe you something and 2) Although more expensive, I have the confidence your battery will work. My current battery is the original with 1399 cycles in 7.2 yrs. A tech buddy had bought me a replacement and I installed it. I had just installed a new OS and the kernel_task went going nuts, using 90% of the CPU. Hours on the phone with Apple did not resolve the issue. On a whim, I put the old battery back in and Voila! But I cannot risk my battery swelling and going south on me. I am also going to buy your installation tools. Yeah, I already have them. But you can never have enough tools…or beer. And you don’t sell beer.

    Pete Banks -

    The instructions say that I am removing PH00 screws. I found that my MBP, mid ‘12, Retina has pentalobe screws instead!

    jsandersonq -

    This laptop definitely originally shipped with Phillips screws—but, Apple has been known to replace Phillips screws with pentalobes when one of their devices is brought in for service. Sorry for the rude surprise! Fortunately the correct driver is easy to find nowadays. [Blatant self-promotion alert!] If you support free repair manuals, consider picking one up from iFixit. Good luck!

    Jeff Suovanen -

    Me, too, and it’s plausible that this machine has been serviced by Apple in the past, replacing the screws as Jeff Suovanen suggests.

    iFixit shipped a pentalobe bit with the kit, but it’s too large for the actual screws, so it looks like I now need to get another bit. But what size?

    Jeff’s link is to a driver with a P5 bit, and that page links to a P2 screwdriver, but since I don’t know what size I actually need (and I don’t have a micrometer to hand) I’m reluctant to buy two on spec.

    Norman Gray -

    (The bit in the kit appears to be a P6, so I’m inclined to order a P5 and see what happens)

    Norman Gray -

    You’re using the wrong repair guide. This guide is for the 2012 NON-Retina MBP. You have a Retina MBP. The stock case screws in the 2012 NON-Retina are all Phillips, just as the guide says.

    Steven Wymor -

    To keep track of screws, I used the suggestions above by taping a photo of the lower case to a piece of corrugated cardboard and inserting/taping the screws in place. Also, as some have noted, the screws go back in at a slight angle; they are angled toward the center of the unit.

    Kristina Graham -

    If your vision, like mine, is getting too fuzzy to be able to distinguish between a tiny Phillips screwdriver and a tiny Tri screwdriver, there’s an easy way. With a Phillips (or a Pozidrive) you can get two opposite wings to reflect the light from a lamp or window straight towards your eye at the same time. With a Tri (or Penta) you can only get one wing to reflect at a time, however much you twiddle it.

    Alan Waller -

    There’s a very easy way to avoid cross-threading a screw thread, any size.

    Put the screw into its hole and start by turning it gently, slowly BACKWARDS. When you hear a little “Click!” sound, the male thread has just passed the opening in the female thread and is in exactly the right position to enter into it correctly when you start to turn in the correct forward direction.

    Remember, all drivers except hex (Allen key) and TorX need pressure to avoid slipping out and damaging the head. So even when you want to turn it in with LOW moment/torque, keep the CONTACT PRESSURE high.

    Alan Waller -

    The keep the pressure on is on point. In my case once I loosened my first screw I thought I could relief my initial pressure. It was a mistake. I was doing the whole thing very slowly as a precaution. That helped me notice that the Phillips screw driver was sliding up out of the screw head. Not being sure why, I put pressure back on the screw driver until almost all the screw was out of the hole. Once out, I examined closely to find out that the threads have some sort of coating. It looks to me like some kind of locktite. Then I understood the importance of keeping the pressure on all the way through. It made me uneasy having to keep so much pressure on such tiny screws, but I found it was the only way to prevent damage to the “slots” on the heads. Anyway, all of them suffered some degree of damage, but I was able to successfully remove them and reinstall all of them back in their original holes.

    Martin Mejia -

    After reading this page on iFixit several times, I just could not face all the work of replacing the Logic Boards on two MacBookPro 2011s even if I was prepared to pay approx 400 USD (which I wasn’t). Then I read the reviews of a couple of folks who’d stripped down their machines and put their logic boards in the oven and, it worked! I wondered, if I just used my new Steinel Hot Air Tool (heat gun in my language) recently delivered from iFixit, on the logic board in-situ, without removing it? So I removed the battery, hard drive, and RAM and unplugged all the leads I could see WITHOUT removing anything else physically. Then using the 500 degrees set on the gun (setting 2) I ‘played’ the gun over the logic board for about 60 seconds on machine one with the restart problem (plus latterly, not completing start-up). Long story short… it worked! I spent a long time getting the s/w to load, but the commentary is too short to let me relate that part… ping me if I can help you do the same! blackaye@gmail.com

    Ian Black -

  2. S3X6juTLCvPG3qsj

    • Hebe das Gehäuseunterteil nahe beim Lüfter mit beiden Händen an und löse es so von den beiden Clips, die es mit dem Gehäuseoberteil verbinden.

    • Entferne das Gehäuseunterteil und lege es zur Seite.

    What is the maximum amount of RAM that can be installed in this MacBook?

    michael -

    16 GB is the max

    Bradon Kelley -

    I can’t get the back panel off !! Removed all 10 screws but the panel is still on. Not a quick easy lift like in the picture of videos on youtube what going on…are the hidden screws locking tabs?

    Tachyon -

    Solved the tabs were hard to get off to the point I thought I was going to bend the back case off before it would let go.

    Tachyon -

  3. 4GBlokQIPPVYILJT

    • Der Akku ist mit zwei 7,4 mm TriPoint-Schrauben am oberen Gehäuse befestigt. Drehe sie heraus.

    • Beachte: Bei bestimmten Reparaturen (z.B. der Festplatte) ist es nicht nötig, den Akku zu entfernen. Es verhindert aber versehentliche Kurzschlüsse in der Elektronik auf dem Logic Board. Wenn du den Akku nicht entfernst, sei besonders vorsichtig, da Teile auf dem Logic Board unter Strom stehen könnten.

    • Du musst nicht unbedingt den Schritten 3 bis 6 (Ausbau des Akkus) folgen, um die Festplatte auszutauschen. Es ist aber grundsätzlich empfohlen, Spannungsquellen zu entfernen, bevor man an Elektronik arbeitet.

    A 1/16th flathead screwdriver easily removes the tri-wing screws in this step. I could not find a Y0 Tri-wing driver at any local stores.

    Jon Daniels -

    I'd like to add that for me, a 1/16th flathead screwdriver did NOT allow me to remove the tri-wing screws holding the battery in place. After several careful attempts, it became obvious I was perilously close to stripping the screw(s), so I abandoned the attempt to unscrew the tri-wing screws with a flathead screwdriver altogether. As it turned out, I didn't need to remove the battery to do what I needed to do (keyboard replacement), but it would have been a whole lot easier had the battery been easily removable.

    dave -

    The Tri-wing screw driver is impossible to find in retail, amazon and ebay are great bets but they vary wildly in quality... I ordered two, and both were so cheap, and barely got the job done. It could be worth getting it here. When you do get it, make sure you push, the Y0 screws were very tight in my macbook, pressing hard prevents you from stripping the Y screw.

    Abe -

    I believe they are Y1 screws, no?

    Mark -

    What worked for me was actually a set of needlenose pliers - the heads on those screws aren't flush, they actually stick out enough that it's possible to turn them from the outside. Caused some scuff marks on the finish of the screws but it's not like anyone's going to see them anyway!

    oboewan42 -

    A tri-wing screwdriver sold as 'for Nintendo Wii' marked 'HFA 360/ x50' did the job. I replaced the screws with standard-head M2x6mm metric screws (M2 = 2 mm thread, 6 mm length of threaded part). Exactly, I took them out of an old hard-disk (with torx head and slightly shorter).

    akronymus -

    I had a cheap Tri-wing screw driver. The one that comes with the “Newertech“ battery. It did not make the job and it rather damaged the screws. Panic! I decided to buy the screwdriver sold by ifixit, the German one, not the other. At any point did I want more surprises. Yes it’s pretty expensive, but equally useful even with the screws already damaged. Thanks guys!

    Raul Roman -

  4. NMFeoCZEm1vM2GSm

    • Löse mit der Fingerspitze vorsichtig die Ecke des Warnaufklebers, um eine verborgene TriPoint-Schraube freizulegen.

    • Entferne die letzte 7,4 mm TriPoint-Schraube, die den Akku am oberen Gehäuse befestigt.

    Is removing the battery necessary?

    bname -

    It is not strictly necessary. As mentioned above, removing the battery is the only way to be sure that no parts of the logic board are electrified. It is very easy to replace the hard drive without removing the battery, but it is safer to remove the battery first.

    Daniel Brauer -

    Note: removing the battery can cause a hitch with OS X 10.9 Mavericks installation to a blank drive, or at least it did for me.

    Disconnecting the battery makes the hardware clock reset to something like Jan 1, 2000. This causes the Mavericks installer to fail its self-check with the error message: "This copy of the Install OS X Mavericks application can't be verified. It may have been corrupted or tampered with during downloading."

    To fix this, you need to open up Terminal from the Utilities menu in the bootable OS X installer environment and use the `date` command to set your Mac's clock back to the correct time before proceeding with the "Install OS X" menu selection, as described here: http://blog.mconserv.net/2013/10/install...

    Andrew Janke -

    Thanks for that warning, Andrew.

    Max Fenton -

    Happened here too, thanks for the tip!

    Franco Bianchi -

    As a note, my Mid-2010 Unibody Macbook did not have this third screw, just two to remove the battery.

    Max Fenton -

    Can anyone answer this question. I cannot afford the entire 80 dollar repair kit listed here and the tools needed only list a spunger t6 and a phillips...it appears from some of these comments there are more drivers needed. I am afraid to do this anyway but not having the right tools off the bat will just make things more difficult while waiting for an order to come in...can someone list the exact tools I would need ? Any help would be appreciated...I am ready to order this but want to put in one order....ifixit, can you clear this up perhaps ?

    laurie -

    One of the most important tool you should get is the head strap magnifier with lighting, it will make your viewing and capable ability much more confident.

    James -

    Taking the battery out is the easiest part once you have the Tri-Wing screwdriver

    Tri-Point Y1 Schraubendreher

    Tao -

    And yes, taking the battery out does naturally make the hardware clock reset.... It's easily fixed. See Andrew Janke's comment above.

    It's a small hassle, compared to needing to possibly replace your logic board because a surge from your battery fried it.

    Tao -

    Ne trouvant pas de tournevis Y1, j'ai utilisé avec succès une pince électrique à bouts fins pour déserrer la vis puis j'ai terminé avec un tournevis plat très fin (1.5x35)

    Ivan Keller -

    new battery drains at the rate of about 10% a minute. i may have received a faulty one but i wouldn't have bought it if i knew what i know now.

    aozoren -

    Is this a battery from iFixit?

    Scott Dingle -

  5. LkGeCQKbOZF2TrpU
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    • Hebe den Akku an der Plastikzuglasche an und schiebe ihn von der langen Seite des oberen Gehäuses weg.

    • Versuche noch nicht, den Akku ganz zu entfernen.

  6. Td2TMHPIv4Pf3Y6b

    • Kippe den Akku weit genug vom Logic Board, um an den Akkuanschluss zu gelangen.

    • Ziehe den Akkuanschluss von seinem Sockel auf dem Logic Board und entferne den Akku vom oberen Gehäuse.

    • Ziehe den Anschluss aus der Mitte des Logic Boards.

    • Wenn du einen neuen Akku einbaust, solltest du ihn nach dem Einbau kalibrieren :

    • Lade ihn auf 100% und lasse ihn mindestens zwei weitere Stunden am Ladegerät. Ziehe den Stecker und benutze dein MacBook normal, um den Akku zu entladen. Wenn die Ladeanzeige am Minimum ist, dann speichere ab und lasse den Laptop an, bis er von selbst ausgeht. Warte wenigstens 5 Stunden und lade dann ohne Unterbrechung auf 100% auf.

    • Wenn dir nach der Installation deines neuen Akkus etwas Ungewöhnliches auffällt oder Probleme auftreten, kann es sein, dass du den SMC deines MacBooks zurücksetzen musst.

    I'm having the same problem as previous commenters: the battery now drains much faster. It's the original factory unit—I only replaced the HD, which is working great.

    Is there something I am missing with the battery reconnection? Maybe it's loose?

    I just want to make sure before I crack open my laptop again.

    cmalec722 -

    Fast battery drain problems might be due to a corrupted power manager circuit on the logic board. To reset it, remove the battery, press the power button for about 5-10 seconds, then reinstall the battery. I know the problem might have been partly due to removing the battery in the first place, but this is the procedure for resetting what might have gone wrong. It might also help to do a PRAM reset, by holding down Command-Option-P-R at power (not just from a restart), and let the Macbook chime twice after its initial powerup chime.

    johnsawyercjs -

    The spudger works well for detaching the connector.

    skat1140 -

    I’ve done a few of these and it should be noted this connector is a very firm fit. Using the flat end of the spudger to pry alternately at the protruding sides can be helpful.

    py -

    Buen tutorial, solo advertir una cosa: los tornillos de la batería (Tri-point), en mi caso estaban muy duros.. atención si se usan destornilladores baratos.. mucho cuidado porque puedes dejar el tornillo imposible de extraer..

    fserranolv -

  7. QnUpADakBKXbOaUC

    • Heble das AirPort/Bluetooth-Flachbandkabel vorsichtig mit dem flachen Ende des Spudgers aus seinem Anschluss auf dem Logic Board.

  8. enlx2dZp5lDIfGt2

    • Ziehe den Stecker des Kamerakabels gerade aus seinem Anschluss auf dem Logic Board heraus.

    • Ziehe das Kabel parallel zur Oberfläche des Logic Board in Richtung der Öffnung des optischen Laufwerks.

  9. O3cpKIBNEdD6FtEj

    • Löse die drei Antennenstecker mit der Spudgerspitze von der AirPort/Bluetooth Karte.

  10. TpE1c5dpVpEgmgVW
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    • Löse alle drei Antennenkabel aus ihren Kanälen in der AirPort/Bluetooth Halterung.

    • Fädle das Kamerakabel aus seinem Kanal in der AirPort/Bluetooth Halterung.

  11. 1gQLboELPJugsbpa

    • Entferne die folgenden beiden Kreuzschlitzschrauben, mit der die AirPort/Bluetooth Einheit am oberen Gehäuse befestigt ist:

    • Eine 3,8 mm Schraube

    • Eine 8,6 mm Schraube

  12. jbJ4Y1kEBwmpcIMM

    • Entferne die AirPort/Bluetooth Einheit vom oberen Gehäuse. Achte dabei darauf, dass sich keine Kabel verfangen.

  13. UF2SKWIqagKSueEb
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    • Entferne die 8,6 mm Kreuzschlitzschraube, mit der der Halter des Antennen-/Kamerakabels am oberen Gehäuse befestigt ist.

    • Entferne den Halter des Antennen-/Kamerakabels vom oberen Gehäuse.

  14. dExTq2ZZLeLxlCqi

    • Entferne zwei der drei 6 mm Torx T6 Schrauben, mit der die rechte Seite des Displays am oberen Gehäuse befestigt ist.

    • Es ist Absicht, dass das Display noch mit einer Schraube am oberen Gehäuse befestigt bleibt, das ist für die folgenden Schritte hilfreich.

  15. p2MCrTRiIZjwiNsO
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    • Fasse die Plastikzuglasche an der Verriegelung des Displaydatenkabels und kippe sie nach oben über den Stecker in Richtung der Seite am Computer mit der Gleichstromversorgung (DC-in).

    • Ziehe das Displaydatenkabel gerade aus seinem Anschluss auf dem Logic Board heraus.

    • Hebe das Displaydatenkabel nicht nach oben, der Sockel ist sehr empfindlich. Ziehe das Kabel parallel zur Oberfläche des Logic Board heraus.

  16. KYo2LBUis3jnWRyr
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    • Entferne die 8,6 mm Kreuzschlitzschraube, mit der der Halter des Displaydatenkabels am oberen Gehäuse befestigt ist.

    • Entferne den Halter des Displaydatenkabels vom oberen Gehäuse.

  17. hYWCDgZ4UxcL4OJr

    • Entferne zwei der drei 6 mm Torx T6 Schrauben, mit denen die linke Seite des Displays am oberen Gehäuse befestigt ist.

    • Es ist Absicht, dass das Display noch mit einer Schraube am oberen Gehäuse befestigt bleibt, das ist für die weiteren Schritte hilfreich.

  18. teUFUooOGhyGWrPT

    • Öffne das MacBook Pro so, dass das Display rechtwinklig zum oberen Gehäuse steht.

    • Stelle das geöffnete Gerät wie gezeigt auf den Tisch.

    • Halte Display und oberes Gehäuse mit der linken Hand zusammen. Drehe dann die verbliebene T6 Torx Schraube aus der oberen Displayhalterung.

  19. MHtI52DiWQbqHksJ

    • Achte darauf, das Display und das obere Gehäuse weiterhin mit der Hand zusammenzuhalten. Wenn du das nicht tust, kann das Display/obere Gehäuseteil herunterfallen und unter Umständen kann jede Komponente beschädigt werden.

    • Drehe die letzte verbliebene T6 Torx Schraube, die das Display noch am oberen Gehäuse befestigt, heraus.

  20. 1CJpMAF2aLbtChHF
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    • Fasse das obere Gehäuseteil mit der rechten Hand und drehe es leicht in Richtung Oberkante des Displays. Dadurch löst sich die obere Displayhalterung von der Kante des oberen Gehäuses.

    • Drehe das Display leicht vom oberen Gehäuse weg.

    • Hebe das Display hoch und weg vom oberen Gehäuseteil, achte dabei darauf, dass sich keine Halterungen oder Kabel verfangen.

  21. ZUHkrFANKCRoSIBF
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    • In den folgenden Schritten wirst du mit einem Heißluftgebläse den Kleber aufweichen, mit dem der äußere schwarze Rand des Frontglases am Display befestigt ist. Der Bereich mit Kleber ist auf dem zweiten Bild rot markiert.

    • Reinige vor Beginn der Reparatur das Displayglas mit einem angefeuchteten fusselfreien Tuch. Dadurch bleibt der Saugheber besser haften und du kannst hinterher Verunreinigungen leichter erkennen.

    • Fange in der rechten oberen Ecke mit dem Erwärmen des schwarzen Randes an. Stelle das Heißluftgebläse auf niedrige Stufe.

    • Richte die heiße Luft immer weg von der weichen Gummieinfassung um das Displayglas. Wenn du sie erwärmst, kann sie ein wenig schmelzen, so dass sie nicht mehr matt sondern glänzend aussieht. Wenn du sie berührst, kann sie dauerhaft verformt werden.

    • Durch die Wärmeeinwirkung kann sich eine Kondensationsschicht innen auf der Glasscheibe oder außen auf dem LCD bilden. Wenn die Glasscheibe vom Display getrennt ist, kann die Schicht mit Glasreiniger entfernt werden.

    Another caution is needed - the heat gun is capable of discoloring the LCD panel (giving uneven coloration) if it overheats. This is possible on the low setting. Proceed cautiously, heating in increments until the glass releases.

    Alden Stradling -

    I was wondering the same, is absolutely necessary to disassemble the screen to change the glass? Can I jump to step 21?

    caholzmann -

    To change just the glass I used a hair dryer it gives off enough heat to do the job. Stand the computer up on its cover with the key board standing up.start at a corner heat the adhesive as you go along. I Put credit cards in as I went along so the adhesive doesn't stick again. take your time . Its easy.

    Robert Lachman -

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    • Wenn die Scheibe warm genug ist, dann befestige einen kräftigen Saugheber in der rechten oberen Ecke der Glasscheibe.

    • Befestige den Saugheber nicht auf der Gummieinfassung um die Kante der Glasscheibe.

    • Um die Saugheber zu befestigen, welche wir verkaufen, bringe ihn zuerst mit dem beweglichen Griff parallel zur Glasscheibe an. Drücke den Saugheber leicht gegen das Glas und kippe den beweglichen Griff, bis er parallel zum anderen steht.

    • Ziehe die Ecke des Displayglases langsam und vorsichtig von der Displayeinheit hoch.

    • Wenn - wie im dritten Bild zu sehen - sich nur die Oberkante der Glasscheibe anhebt, dann wiederhole Schritt 1 und 2, bis du die Ecke des Displays anheben kannst.

    Sufficiently heated is a meaningless phrase here. Is it two minutes? Three? Fifteen? An hour? I have tried doing this for increasing amounts of time while avoiding doing damage to the machine, and nothing is working. Sufficient heating needs definition.

    Keith McComb -

    Hi Keith, the key here is that you want to warm the adhesive that's spread thoroughly behind the masked-black area of the glass around the screen to release, but not put enough heat at the rubber gasket that seals the closed top lid to the base. Too much heat, too soon, will deform the rubber. Too much and you'll never get the glass to release. The 2x that I have done this, however, even with sufficient (and significant) heat, I remember the glass taking a surprising amount of leverage to pull clear. A tactic: using your heat gun warm all the sides of the display from the front, in a circulating/racetrack fashion - about 20 rpm. After 30sec, focus on the left and top sides, seesawing from bottom left, to top left, to top right, and back. Do that at the same pace, about 5-10 passes. Then spend about 10 sec waving over the whole top left corner. That should get enough heat to enough places to help the glass separate to start placing picks, and you can continue to heat the margins as you progress.

    johnkimmel -

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    • Hebe die Ecke des Displayglases vorsichtig an, bis du einen Spudger zwischen ihm und der Displayeinheit einsetzen kannst.

    • Heble das Displayglas vorsichtig mit dem flachen Ende des Spudgers aus der Klebeverbindung zum Display heraus.

    • Heble das Glas einige Zentimeter von der oberen rechten Ecke aus an der oberen und seitlichen Kante hoch.

    Be careful with the spudger and the soft rubber strip around the glass. Since the rubber strip has been heated up by the heat gun, it is easily smushed and deformed by the spudger.

    Rob -

    Be patient and work slowly or else you will crack the glass like me.

    BillyRachel1 -

    I can not get the glass to come up despite two tries and dicsoloring the LCD with too much heat. Why can't I get the glass to budge at all?

    bollucks66 -

    It is better , instead of using the suction cup , to use small flat end spudger . The suction cup should be used first to detach the window from the gasket , not furthermore as it may brake the glass.

    Thierry de Montblanc -

    I didn’t have large suction cups and the small ones didn’t work for me. Instead, I used an opening tool to pry up the glass slightly and got a guitar pick under it. Then I slowly worked the pick around the top three sides of the glass, heating sections of glue as I went.

    Daniel Arnfield -

    I’ve managed to do it using hair dryer on max. First corner was though and took a lot of time to lift it. I decided to heat not only a corner but whole length and then it came off. I’ve put so much heat that was afraid I’ve damaged LCD, but it works fine. As BillyRachel1 said: patience is the way. In order to assemble it back I used old glue heated again. It’s easy but takes time.

    Note: Don’t do this at home if you have cats otherwise you going to spend next hour or so trying to remove their fur from between glass and LCD. It’s because they all levitate after using hot air and just wait to stick to the screen again.

    To be honest hardest thing was replacing clutch cover, took me so much time and I eventually cracked it.

    D. K. Labudek -

  24. WYhocb5QTXJeqHvT
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    • Erwärme mit dem Heißluftgebläse den Kleber unter dem schwarzen Streifen am rechten Rand der vorderen Glasscheibe.

    • Bringe einen Saugheber an der rechten Seite der vorderen Glasscheibe an.

    • Ziehe die Glasscheibe hoch und trenne sie gleichzeitig mit dem flachen Ende des Spudgers von der Displayeinheit ab.

    • Arbeite so lange weiter, bis der rechte Rand der Glasscheibe komplett vom Display abgelöst ist.

    • Es kann hilfreich sein, wenn du mit einem Plektrum oder einem anderen flachen Werkzeug verhinderst, das sich die obere rechte Ecke wieder am Display festklebt.

    If you don't have a guitar pick, playing cards works too.

    Rob -

    I used old credit cards

    Robert Lachman -

  25. JJdSUU3FC4VWobTm
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    • Erwärme mit dem Heißluftgebläse den Kleber unter dem schwarzen Streifen am oberen Rand der vorderen Glasscheibe.

    • Bringe einen Saugheber am oberen Rand der vorderen Glasscheibe an und ziehe die Glasscheibe vom Display weg.

    • Arbeite weiter sorgfältig am oberen Rand entlang, wobei du beim Auftrennen des Klebers mit dem flachen Ende des Spudgers nachhelfen kannst.

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    • Erwärme mit dem Heißluftgebläse den Kleber unter dem schwarzen Streifen um die obere linke Ecke der vorderen Glasscheibe.

    • Bringe einen Saugheber in der oberen linken Ecke der vorderen Glasscheibe an.

    • Ziehe am Saugheber und heble vorsichtig mit dem flachen Ende des Spudgers die Glasscheibe aus der Displayeinheit heraus.

    • Wenn du die obere linke Ecke abgelöst hast, kann es hilfreich sein mit einem Plektrum oder einem anderen flachen Werkzeug zu verhindern, dass sich die Glasscheibe wieder mit der Displayeinheit verklebt.

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    • Erwärme mit dem Heißluftgebläse den Kleber unter dem schwarzen Streifen am linken Rand der vorderen Glasscheibe.

    • Bringe einen Saugheber an der linken Seite der vorderen Glasscheibe an.

    • Ziehe die Glasscheibe hoch und trenne sie gleichzeitig mit dem flachen Ende des Spudgers von der Displayeinheit ab.

    • Arbeite so lange weiter, bis der linke Rand der Glasscheibe komplett vom Display abgelöst ist.

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    • Nachdem nun die obere, rechte und linke Kante der Glasscheibe abgelöst sind, kannst du die Oberkante der Glasscheibe langsam anheben und vom Display wegdrehen.

    • Befreie, wenn nötig, die Unterkante der Glasscheibe mit dem flachen Ende des Spudgers aus der Klebeverbindung zur Displayeinheit.

    • Bevor du die Glasscheibe wieder befestigst, musst du die Innenseite de Glasscheibe und das LCD erst gut reinigen. Fingerabdrücke oder eingeschlossene Staubkörnchen sind später sehr störend sichtbar.

    If you will be reusing the glass, with new adhesive, then you will want to remove the old adhesive. This is a bit of a pain, as alcohol doesn't work, and you need to be careful to avoid damaging the black screen border, which is black paint on the back (adhesive) side of the glass.

    To remove the adhesive, note that it is actually a thin film with rubber cement on both sides. First, use a razor to carefully pull up one corner of the film and gently peel it off of the glass. If you are gentle and slow, the underlying adhesive may also come off; if not, then rubbing with your finger or a hard rubber eraser will do the trick.

    griscom -

    what to do when new glass starts to peel after a week ?

    labig -

    If this is a rubber cement based glue, then would rubber solvent / thinner like N-Heptane help the removal process without damaging the black paint ?

    Sandman619 -

    Don’t remove glue. Just reuse it by heating and sticking it again.

    D. K. Labudek -

  29. cYIS2jRBXoYmJHcd
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    • Setze ein Plastiköffnungswerkzeug zwischen Glasscheibe und Kamerahalterung ein und schiebe es um die Kamerahalterung herum, bis sie sich ablöst.

    • Vergiss beim Zusammenbau nicht, die Kamerahalterung an der neuen Glasscheibe festzukleben.

    This step is only needed if replacing the glass. If you are only replacing the LCD, there is no need to do this step

    Rob -

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    • Beim Ausbau der Glasscheibe kann das Kamerakabel an der Glasscheibe kleben bleiben, so dass es beim Abheben der Scheibe von der Kameraplatine abgetrennt wird. Wenn das Kamerakabel bei dir noch angeschlossen ist, kannst du diesen Schritt überspringen.

    • Bevor du das Kabel wieder anschließen kannst, musst du erst das Stück Klebeschaumstoff über dem ZIF-Verbinder des Kamerakabels mit der Spudgerspitze ablösen.

    • Klappe den Sicherungsbügel am ZIF-Verbinder des Kamerakabels mit der Spudgerspitze hoch.

    • Schiebe das Kamerakabel in seinen Anschluss auf der Kameraplatine hinein und klappe den Sicherungsbügel mit der Spudgerspitze herunter, so dass das Kabel wieder gut im ZIF-Verbinder gesichert ist.

    • Klebe das Stück Schaumstoff wieder am Anschluss des Kamerakabels fest.

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    • Schiebe die Verschlussabdeckung zur rechten Kante des Displays hin.

    • Die Verschlussabdeckung kann etwa 7 mm weit verschoben werden und stoppt dann. Verschiebe sie nicht zu weit nach rechts.

    • Wenn du die Verschlussabdeckung wieder einbaust, dann achte darauf, dass sie auch über die Bauteile, die von der Unterkante herausstehen, ca 7 mm nach rechts bis zur Endposition am Display hinausgeht.

    Do you necessarily need to remove the glass before you can remove the clutch cover?

    aye oh -

  32. xAWfCPnQQruJOUKf
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    • Beginne ganz links und rüttle die Verschlussabdeckung entlang ihrer langen Achse, während du sie gleichzeitig vom Scharnier des Verschlusses abziehst.

    • Arbeite von rechts nach links und löse weiter vorsichtig den Verschluss entlang der Unterkante der Displayeinheit ab.

    • Hebe die Verschlussabdeckung von der vorderen Blende ab und lege sie zur Seite.

    • Du musst beim Einbau der Verschlussabdeckung die Öffnung aufweiten, wenn du sie über die kleine schwarze Zierblende schiebst, welche das offene Ende der Verschlussabdeckung nach dem Einbau schließt. Die Zierblende hat kleine dünne und empfindliche Kunstoffärmchen, die sie im rechten Scharnier des Verschlusses halten.

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    • Entferne die sechs 2,9 mm Kreuzschlitzschrauben, mit denen das LCD an der vorderen Blende befestigt ist.

    Hey guys, I need to get the part where the screws are on, whats its name or where could I find it? That part on my Computer broke.... Do you guys think its possible to guet it somewhere?

    diegoantegr31 -

  34. tyeff6iOHEwWEANM

    • Ziehe das LCD zur Oberkante der Displayeinheit hin, so dass die Platine entlang ihrer Unterkante aus ihrer Vertiefung in der Aluminium-Displayeinheit herauskommt.

    • Es kann helfen, wenn du mit einer Hand das Displaydatenkabel durch den Kanal in der Aluminium-Displayeinheit führst, während du mit der anderen Hand das LCD zur Oberkante des Displays ziehst.

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    • Löse das Stückchen Klebeband vom Stecker des Displaydatenkabels an der Kante nahe des LCDs ab.

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    • Klappe die dünne Metallklammer, welche das Displaydatenkabel in seinem Anschluss auf dem LCD sichert, mit der Spudgerspitze hoch.

    • Ziehe das Displaydatenkabel gerade aus seinem Anschluss auf dem LCD heraus.

    • Hebe das LCD aus der Displayeinheit heraus und lege es zur Seite.

    • Wenn du das LVDS/Displaydatenkabel austauschen willst, dann fädle es einfach aus seinem Ausschnitt in der Displayeinfassung heraus.

    Danke für das Bereitstellen der Anleitung dadurch konnte ich mein MacBook nach 12 Jahren Einsatz, für die nächsten Jahre fit machen.

    Thanks you for providing this Manuel. It helped me, after 12 year of use to make my MacBook fit for the coming years.

    Albert Zweistein -

Abschluss

Um dein Gerät wieder zusammenbauen, folge den Schritten in umgekehrter Reihenfolge.

Tinte & Feder

Andrew Bookholt

578335 Reputation

6 Kommentare

Everything in this guide is simple, except for tearing the glass plate off. I tried with a hairdryer (1200 Watt) first, without success. Then I used a hot air gun (at 400 deg. Celcius, about 750 Fahrenheit). It worked like a charm, but my rubber edge is somewhat shiny, and in one area there's a fingerprint now. Nevertheless, this operation saved me 400 Euros and I'm happy I did it.

arnebakker -

I followed the guide and it worked very well. However, after heating the glass for removal I found the lower right corner to be the easiest. Then I used an old credit card to separate the glass from the frame by sliding it around. The hardest part was installing the new LCD panel and glass because of dirt particles and fingerprints. Great tutorial and guide.

RodriguezAlberto -

For each step in the disassembly process, put the different screws into different shotglasses. Don't leave the screws lying around your desk unless you are a pro.

On a piece of paper, write the step #, and place the shotglass on it. If you have cats who might knock over your shotglasses, label them (the shotglasses, not the cats) using a piece of scotch tape. Then put them where they will not get destroyed by mischievous felines like a roll of toilet paper when you forget to close the bathroom door.

Read all comments in this section; they helped me a lot. DISCLAIMER: I am an idiot, and I confused the shotglasses containing cable restraints. I then spent about an hour trying to figure out where I'd gone wrong before I realized that the restraint in the photo was not the one in my hand. No wonder my father always gives me that look of disappointment when he sees me. Good luck!

Robert Burt -

Thank you ifixit for making this sound easy. I just shattered my display.

fatlard1993 -

Think you from algeria

fouad hamdouche -

where is the backlight inverter?

firminle -