MacBook Pro (15 Zoll, Mitte 2010, Unibody) oberes Gehäuse austauschen

Geschrieben von: Andrew Bookholt
  • Kommentare: 125
MacBook Pro (15 Zoll, Mitte 2010, Unibody) oberes Gehäuse austauschen

Schwierigkeitsgrad

Schwierig

Schritte

43

Zeitaufwand

2 - 3 Stunden

Einleitung

Zum Austausch des oberen Gehäuses muss fast jedes Bauteil im Inneren deines MacBook Pro (15 Zoll, Mitte 2010, Unibody) ausgebaut werden.

  1. cJVilSAppmEKRtFW

    • Entferne die zehn Schrauben, die das obere und das untere Gehäuse zusammenhalten.

    • Drei 13,5 mm (14,1 mm) Kreuzschlitzschrauben.

    • Sieben 3 mm Kreuzschlitzschrauben.

    • Schaue dir beim Ausdrehen der Schrauben genau an, wie sie leicht schräg herauskommen. Beim Zusammenbau muss das genauso sein.

    Step 1 (technically step 9 - replacing the base plate) Apparently one of my screws was a micron or two smaller than the others. This screw belongs to the hole above the optical drive, which is also apparently a couple of microns smaller than the others. It took seven attempts to figure which screw had originally been in that hole; all the other screws were too large, but fitted perfectly everywhere else.

    Bizarre much?

    Will -

    It might be a matter of how the screws are driven in, and not that they're slightly different sizes. When I reassembled my MacBook, a couple of the screws, including the one over the optical drive you mention, were hard to drive in and jutted up a little bit instead of sitting entirely flush. Swapping screws didn't help. The solution was to unscrew them and drive them in at a bit of an angle - perpendicular to the slightly curved surface of the back plate where the screw holes were, instead of fully vertical with respect to the ground the Macbook is sitting on. Doing it that way, the screws were easier to drive in and they all ended up flush in their holes. Didn't matter which screws they were. (I swapped a few around just to check after reading this.)

    Andrew Janke -

    I had no such screw issues. Either there are differences in manufacturing lots or I just got incredibly lucky during reassembly!

    xtophr -

    I discovered a great way of organizing the screws. I used an ice cube tray and added the screws in order, keeping the different kinds together. So when it came to reversing the steps, the screw order was an added control step to returning everything in its place.

    leonie -

    Great advise! Love it! :)

    Ririds -

    I used to do that and that worked really great until I bumped it by accident and the entire tray went on the rug! I spent the next day sorting things out.

    Now I use these:

    http://www.sciplus.com/p/50-114-CLEAR-PL...

    The lower ones 50 to a package. I mark them w/ blue tape. Often if it's part like the fans, or the optical drive I'll tape the screws into/near the holes where they belong. I did this a lot especially w/ the bottom screws from MBPs until I'd done so many I knew exactly where the longer ones went.

    Richard Sato -

    I wrapped the screws in a piece of blue masking tape and wrote the number on the little pouch I made. Then I stuck the blue tape pouches on the underside of the case bottom in order.

    Roscoe -

    I take double-sided tape, put that on a piece of paper, stick the crews to that, and label them.

    jelimoore -

    Best I've found is a bead sorting tray. They're like $5 at Wal-Mart and they have a lid that seals up and won't let them jump between containers.

    maccentric -

    I take a sheet of paper, pierce the screws through the paper, take a pen and box the screws and write out what step they belong to.

    Nils -

    @Will, in my case I had the same result as you did. As a reminder to myself the next time I need to open the computer, I put a dot of white paint on those two screw's head and a very, very thin ring of white on the very edge of each hole, that way I'll know they go into those two holes.

    Roger -

    Actually the four screws on the bottom were not threaded all the way up. I didn't check to see if the thread gauge was the same on them, but it wasn't until I had about four screws out (I didn't take them out in the order that the bottom all came out first) that I noticed a difference. I then took out the rest of the bottom ones to see if they matched the two that were already out that weren't threaded to the top. They did. So I went under the assumption that those were all bottom screws and when I put it back together everything went fine with no resistance.

    So there are three types of screws: Four for the bottom, three long ones as indicated and three others that might be slightly smaller than the bottom ones.

    wresnick -

    Hi,

    Although its more than a year since your contribution, I thought you might be amused to know that it is not just that the screws go in more easily when at an angle, Apple actually drilled and tapped the holes at a 15% angle. I too had tried to drive them in straight. An Apple "genius" - I was in for something else - clarified the design for me. It was done so that the screws lay flush on the angled part of the lower case. Nice design, but since Apple encourages DIY memory and drive changes, they could have mentioned this little ... trap.

    H Stahl -

    MacBookPro8,2

    Intel Core i7, 2,2 GHz, RAM 16 GB

    Mountain Lion

    May someone help me?

    I have installed the second drive with ssd 840 evo, but when I try to copy the file from the new drive to the main hd this in not allowed (errore -36)

    Piero -

    To my knowledge you can't transfer a single file more than 4gb. I advise compressing to a bunch of rars to split the file size and moving them individually

    1982sketcher -

    Hey everyone, here's the very best way to PERFECTLY organize your screws AND keep track of the order of the procedure: Get a piece of plain corrugated cardboard and a pen (I like using a Sharpie). For EACH step of the disassembly, draw a simple diagram of the layout of the computer on the piece of cardboard, with dots or Xs where the screws are located. Right after you remove each screw from the computer, poke a hole in the cardboard in its corresponding diagram position with your screwdriver and place the screw in that hole. If there are other non-screw related parts to be removed, you can add notes below each step diagram to remind you of where they go or how they should be placed. This cardboard method is great not only because your screws will not go flying or get mixed up by accident if bumped, but each screw goes EXACTLY back where it came from and you can keep the cardboard as a template for future use if necessary!

    - zerø K

    zeroK -

    These instructions worked great for me. I ordered a replacement battery from Key Power (on Amazon) for my 15" Macbook Pro (mid-2010). Cost was $74 shipped.

    Battery came with 3 different screwdrivers to help with installation. I just needed the one size though, since my 2010 seemed to use all the same size screws.

    Thanks!

    Marcos -

    During re-assembling (put the screws back in), it is important to note that the 3mm threaded holes are not completely vertical, but bent a little bit such that the hole direction is rectangular to the tapered surface. The force of the screwdriver must point towards the direction of the hole. Otherwise the screw gets jammed

    kusi -

    There is a FOOLPROOF WAY TO ORGANIZE ALL SCREWS and other parts removed.

    Print the repair guide.

    Yes, the actual photo of the bottom of the laptop with the circles around the screws.

    When you remove the screw, tape it to the photograph.

    You will tape the screw to the exact location that you just removed it from.

    Same thing with any part you remove.

    splashzoneent -

    Thanks Splash!!! I used your suggested method, and it was perfect: kept all my screws, and i was able to, very easily, put them back in their correct place. I greatly appreciated your feedback. Thank you for sharing!!

    Tommy Kedar -

    Thank you!!! This worked fabulously - even the I.T. people at my workplace were excited as they never thought to do that before. Replacing the battery took about 10 minutes!

    nclarke36 -

    Worked like a charm! Took less than 20 minutes.

    It's Oct. 2015, and the fan cost me about $10. it was the same brand/model...

    SUNON MG62090V1-Q020-S99 .

    SOME TRICKS -

    1- no T6 screwdriver- was careful using needle nose players to loosen 2 screws protruding up, then use a small phillips to push real hard into the T6 slots, SLOWLY turn , also used a small flat head screwdriver (for eye glass repair) was able to grab thread on T6's, made a small mark with screw driver across the top so I could see when it started to turn.

    2- no spudger -made one; cut a little strip 1/2" x 1 1/2" of plastic. couldn't get it to slide under plug, there's an edge where plug fits. so lifted old fan out, pulled upward on the plug it popped right out with very little effort. I used my home made spudger to push the new plug into place.

    3- download free "Macs Fan Control" This is how I was alerted to the fan not working in the first place. Program shows temperature of all key components in the computer.

    cheers- Durango CO!

    Dgodrummer -

    Watch the video first, read the entire tutorial and all the comments before you start, and spread a white towel on the floor so you can find screws when you drop them. Watch this first -- http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qiBxhA29e...

    kevicoll409 -

    The link above is no longer available.

    Kristina Graham -

    I will be buying a battery from you and using your instructions. I just installed a new CD/DVD using your instructions and 1) I feel like I owe you something and 2) Although more expensive, I have the confidence your battery will work. My current battery is the original with 1399 cycles in 7.2 yrs. A tech buddy had bought me a replacement and I installed it. I had just installed a new OS and the kernel_task went going nuts, using 90% of the CPU. Hours on the phone with Apple did not resolve the issue. On a whim, I put the old battery back in and Voila! But I cannot risk my battery swelling and going south on me. I am also going to buy your installation tools. Yeah, I already have them. But you can never have enough tools…or beer. And you don’t sell beer.

    Pete Banks -

    The instructions say that I am removing PH00 screws. I found that my MBP, mid ‘12, Retina has pentalobe screws instead!

    jsandersonq -

    This laptop definitely originally shipped with Phillips screws—but, Apple has been known to replace Phillips screws with pentalobes when one of their devices is brought in for service. Sorry for the rude surprise! Fortunately the correct driver is easy to find nowadays. [Blatant self-promotion alert!] If you support free repair manuals, consider picking one up from iFixit. Good luck!

    Jeff Suovanen -

    Me, too, and it’s plausible that this machine has been serviced by Apple in the past, replacing the screws as Jeff Suovanen suggests.

    iFixit shipped a pentalobe bit with the kit, but it’s too large for the actual screws, so it looks like I now need to get another bit. But what size?

    Jeff’s link is to a driver with a P5 bit, and that page links to a P2 screwdriver, but since I don’t know what size I actually need (and I don’t have a micrometer to hand) I’m reluctant to buy two on spec.

    Norman Gray -

    (The bit in the kit appears to be a P6, so I’m inclined to order a P5 and see what happens)

    Norman Gray -

    You’re using the wrong repair guide. This guide is for the 2012 NON-Retina MBP. You have a Retina MBP. The stock case screws in the 2012 NON-Retina are all Phillips, just as the guide says.

    Steven Wymor -

    To keep track of screws, I used the suggestions above by taping a photo of the lower case to a piece of corrugated cardboard and inserting/taping the screws in place. Also, as some have noted, the screws go back in at a slight angle; they are angled toward the center of the unit.

    Kristina Graham -

    If your vision, like mine, is getting too fuzzy to be able to distinguish between a tiny Phillips screwdriver and a tiny Tri screwdriver, there’s an easy way. With a Phillips (or a Pozidrive) you can get two opposite wings to reflect the light from a lamp or window straight towards your eye at the same time. With a Tri (or Penta) you can only get one wing to reflect at a time, however much you twiddle it.

    Alan Waller -

    There’s a very easy way to avoid cross-threading a screw thread, any size.

    Put the screw into its hole and start by turning it gently, slowly BACKWARDS. When you hear a little “Click!” sound, the male thread has just passed the opening in the female thread and is in exactly the right position to enter into it correctly when you start to turn in the correct forward direction.

    Remember, all drivers except hex (Allen key) and TorX need pressure to avoid slipping out and damaging the head. So even when you want to turn it in with LOW moment/torque, keep the CONTACT PRESSURE high.

    Alan Waller -

    The keep the pressure on is on point. In my case once I loosened my first screw I thought I could relief my initial pressure. It was a mistake. I was doing the whole thing very slowly as a precaution. That helped me notice that the Phillips screw driver was sliding up out of the screw head. Not being sure why, I put pressure back on the screw driver until almost all the screw was out of the hole. Once out, I examined closely to find out that the threads have some sort of coating. It looks to me like some kind of locktite. Then I understood the importance of keeping the pressure on all the way through. It made me uneasy having to keep so much pressure on such tiny screws, but I found it was the only way to prevent damage to the “slots” on the heads. Anyway, all of them suffered some degree of damage, but I was able to successfully remove them and reinstall all of them back in their original holes.

    Martin Mejia -

    After reading this page on iFixit several times, I just could not face all the work of replacing the Logic Boards on two MacBookPro 2011s even if I was prepared to pay approx 400 USD (which I wasn’t). Then I read the reviews of a couple of folks who’d stripped down their machines and put their logic boards in the oven and, it worked! I wondered, if I just used my new Steinel Hot Air Tool (heat gun in my language) recently delivered from iFixit, on the logic board in-situ, without removing it? So I removed the battery, hard drive, and RAM and unplugged all the leads I could see WITHOUT removing anything else physically. Then using the 500 degrees set on the gun (setting 2) I ‘played’ the gun over the logic board for about 60 seconds on machine one with the restart problem (plus latterly, not completing start-up). Long story short… it worked! I spent a long time getting the s/w to load, but the commentary is too short to let me relate that part… ping me if I can help you do the same! blackaye@gmail.com

    Ian Black -

  2. S3X6juTLCvPG3qsj

    • Hebe das Gehäuseunterteil nahe beim Lüfter mit beiden Händen an und löse es so von den beiden Clips, die es mit dem Gehäuseoberteil verbinden.

    • Entferne das Gehäuseunterteil und lege es zur Seite.

    What is the maximum amount of RAM that can be installed in this MacBook?

    michael -

    16 GB is the max

    Bradon Kelley -

    I can’t get the back panel off !! Removed all 10 screws but the panel is still on. Not a quick easy lift like in the picture of videos on youtube what going on…are the hidden screws locking tabs?

    Tachyon -

    Solved the tabs were hard to get off to the point I thought I was going to bend the back case off before it would let go.

    Tachyon -

  3. 4GBlokQIPPVYILJT

    • Der Akku ist mit zwei 7,4 mm TriPoint-Schrauben am oberen Gehäuse befestigt. Drehe sie heraus.

    • Beachte: Bei bestimmten Reparaturen (z.B. der Festplatte) ist es nicht nötig, den Akku zu entfernen. Es verhindert aber versehentliche Kurzschlüsse in der Elektronik auf dem Logic Board. Wenn du den Akku nicht entfernst, sei besonders vorsichtig, da Teile auf dem Logic Board unter Strom stehen könnten.

    • Du musst nicht unbedingt den Schritten 3 bis 6 (Ausbau des Akkus) folgen, um die Festplatte auszutauschen. Es ist aber grundsätzlich empfohlen, Spannungsquellen zu entfernen, bevor man an Elektronik arbeitet.

    A 1/16th flathead screwdriver easily removes the tri-wing screws in this step. I could not find a Y0 Tri-wing driver at any local stores.

    Jon Daniels -

    I'd like to add that for me, a 1/16th flathead screwdriver did NOT allow me to remove the tri-wing screws holding the battery in place. After several careful attempts, it became obvious I was perilously close to stripping the screw(s), so I abandoned the attempt to unscrew the tri-wing screws with a flathead screwdriver altogether. As it turned out, I didn't need to remove the battery to do what I needed to do (keyboard replacement), but it would have been a whole lot easier had the battery been easily removable.

    dave -

    The Tri-wing screw driver is impossible to find in retail, amazon and ebay are great bets but they vary wildly in quality... I ordered two, and both were so cheap, and barely got the job done. It could be worth getting it here. When you do get it, make sure you push, the Y0 screws were very tight in my macbook, pressing hard prevents you from stripping the Y screw.

    Abe -

    I believe they are Y1 screws, no?

    Mark -

    What worked for me was actually a set of needlenose pliers - the heads on those screws aren't flush, they actually stick out enough that it's possible to turn them from the outside. Caused some scuff marks on the finish of the screws but it's not like anyone's going to see them anyway!

    oboewan42 -

    A tri-wing screwdriver sold as 'for Nintendo Wii' marked 'HFA 360/ x50' did the job. I replaced the screws with standard-head M2x6mm metric screws (M2 = 2 mm thread, 6 mm length of threaded part). Exactly, I took them out of an old hard-disk (with torx head and slightly shorter).

    akronymus -

    I had a cheap Tri-wing screw driver. The one that comes with the “Newertech“ battery. It did not make the job and it rather damaged the screws. Panic! I decided to buy the screwdriver sold by ifixit, the German one, not the other. At any point did I want more surprises. Yes it’s pretty expensive, but equally useful even with the screws already damaged. Thanks guys!

    Raul Roman -

  4. NMFeoCZEm1vM2GSm

    • Löse mit der Fingerspitze vorsichtig die Ecke des Warnaufklebers, um eine verborgene TriPoint-Schraube freizulegen.

    • Entferne die letzte 7,4 mm TriPoint-Schraube, die den Akku am oberen Gehäuse befestigt.

    Is removing the battery necessary?

    bname -

    It is not strictly necessary. As mentioned above, removing the battery is the only way to be sure that no parts of the logic board are electrified. It is very easy to replace the hard drive without removing the battery, but it is safer to remove the battery first.

    Daniel Brauer -

    Note: removing the battery can cause a hitch with OS X 10.9 Mavericks installation to a blank drive, or at least it did for me.

    Disconnecting the battery makes the hardware clock reset to something like Jan 1, 2000. This causes the Mavericks installer to fail its self-check with the error message: "This copy of the Install OS X Mavericks application can't be verified. It may have been corrupted or tampered with during downloading."

    To fix this, you need to open up Terminal from the Utilities menu in the bootable OS X installer environment and use the `date` command to set your Mac's clock back to the correct time before proceeding with the "Install OS X" menu selection, as described here: http://blog.mconserv.net/2013/10/install...

    Andrew Janke -

    Thanks for that warning, Andrew.

    Max Fenton -

    Happened here too, thanks for the tip!

    Franco Bianchi -

    As a note, my Mid-2010 Unibody Macbook did not have this third screw, just two to remove the battery.

    Max Fenton -

    Can anyone answer this question. I cannot afford the entire 80 dollar repair kit listed here and the tools needed only list a spunger t6 and a phillips...it appears from some of these comments there are more drivers needed. I am afraid to do this anyway but not having the right tools off the bat will just make things more difficult while waiting for an order to come in...can someone list the exact tools I would need ? Any help would be appreciated...I am ready to order this but want to put in one order....ifixit, can you clear this up perhaps ?

    laurie -

    One of the most important tool you should get is the head strap magnifier with lighting, it will make your viewing and capable ability much more confident.

    James -

    Taking the battery out is the easiest part once you have the Tri-Wing screwdriver

    Tri-Point Y1 Schraubendreher

    Tao -

    And yes, taking the battery out does naturally make the hardware clock reset.... It's easily fixed. See Andrew Janke's comment above.

    It's a small hassle, compared to needing to possibly replace your logic board because a surge from your battery fried it.

    Tao -

    Ne trouvant pas de tournevis Y1, j'ai utilisé avec succès une pince électrique à bouts fins pour déserrer la vis puis j'ai terminé avec un tournevis plat très fin (1.5x35)

    Ivan Keller -

    new battery drains at the rate of about 10% a minute. i may have received a faulty one but i wouldn't have bought it if i knew what i know now.

    aozoren -

    Is this a battery from iFixit?

    Scott Dingle -

  5. LkGeCQKbOZF2TrpU
    LkGeCQKbOZF2TrpU
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    • Hebe den Akku an der Plastikzuglasche an und schiebe ihn von der langen Seite des oberen Gehäuses weg.

    • Versuche noch nicht, den Akku ganz zu entfernen.

  6. Td2TMHPIv4Pf3Y6b

    • Kippe den Akku weit genug vom Logic Board, um an den Akkuanschluss zu gelangen.

    • Ziehe den Akkuanschluss von seinem Sockel auf dem Logic Board und entferne den Akku vom oberen Gehäuse.

    • Ziehe den Anschluss aus der Mitte des Logic Boards.

    • Wenn du einen neuen Akku einbaust, solltest du ihn nach dem Einbau kalibrieren :

    • Lade ihn auf 100% und lasse ihn mindestens zwei weitere Stunden am Ladegerät. Ziehe den Stecker und benutze dein MacBook normal, um den Akku zu entladen. Wenn die Ladeanzeige am Minimum ist, dann speichere ab und lasse den Laptop an, bis er von selbst ausgeht. Warte wenigstens 5 Stunden und lade dann ohne Unterbrechung auf 100% auf.

    • Wenn dir nach der Installation deines neuen Akkus etwas Ungewöhnliches auffällt oder Probleme auftreten, kann es sein, dass du den SMC deines MacBooks zurücksetzen musst.

    I'm having the same problem as previous commenters: the battery now drains much faster. It's the original factory unit—I only replaced the HD, which is working great.

    Is there something I am missing with the battery reconnection? Maybe it's loose?

    I just want to make sure before I crack open my laptop again.

    cmalec722 -

    Fast battery drain problems might be due to a corrupted power manager circuit on the logic board. To reset it, remove the battery, press the power button for about 5-10 seconds, then reinstall the battery. I know the problem might have been partly due to removing the battery in the first place, but this is the procedure for resetting what might have gone wrong. It might also help to do a PRAM reset, by holding down Command-Option-P-R at power (not just from a restart), and let the Macbook chime twice after its initial powerup chime.

    johnsawyercjs -

    The spudger works well for detaching the connector.

    skat1140 -

    I’ve done a few of these and it should be noted this connector is a very firm fit. Using the flat end of the spudger to pry alternately at the protruding sides can be helpful.

    py -

    Buen tutorial, solo advertir una cosa: los tornillos de la batería (Tri-point), en mi caso estaban muy duros.. atención si se usan destornilladores baratos.. mucho cuidado porque puedes dejar el tornillo imposible de extraer..

    fserranolv -

  7. 2GPbQUrYJekKWwIi

    • Entferne die drei 3,4 mm T6 Torx Schrauben, die den linken Ventilator am Logic Board befestigen.

    • In einigen Modellen können diese T6 Torx Schrauben auch 3,1 mm lang sein.

    Je vais juste vous surprendre car je suis français.

    JI'll just surprise you because I am French .

    I understood the problem of the left fan. In fact the problem is with the design at Apple. The fan housing is too narrow vertically a few tenths of millimeters. This is why so many problems . The left fans deteriorate very quickly.

    The solution is very simple. Buy a new fan in China, it is the cheapest and level it's very fast delivery . Warning it comes fan already used but in good condition.

    The thing to do is to over- raise the fan does not rub and deteriorating. To do so just buy a zinc washer 3 mm diameter available from my local hardware store ( € 3 for 70 pieces ) and place it under the black screw fully right and top right . The over- elevation leads to no longer have friction effect.

    Thats ALL !!!

    olivierbartoli -

    on my screwdriver set, the T6 screw driver felt wobbly. It felt like I would strip the screw if not careful. So I used a T7 screw driver, and it was much more snug.

    Bryan Chun -

    Same here. T6 did not fit at all. Too small.

    Bummer. Will have to screw my MBP back together and get a T7 on Monday…

    Oliver Nielsen -

  8. 2JJkeLvDESBkeiZe
    2JJkeLvDESBkeiZe
    wmNMeOJLNpoOZTpK
    uXGsHQPdRCW5eGK6

    • Verwende das flache Ende eines Spudgers, um den Verbinder des linken Ventilators vom Logic Board zu lösen

    • Es ist hilfreich, den Spatel mittig unterhalb der Ventilatorkabeldrähte zu verdrehen, um den Stecker zu lösen.

    • Verbinder und Anschluss des Ventilators sind im zweiten und dritten Bild zu sehen. Passe auf, nicht den Plastikanschluss des Ventilators vom Logic Board abzubrechen, wenn du den Ventilatorstecker mit einem Spudger gerade nach oben und aus dem Anschluss hebst.

    • Das Layout des Logic Board in Bild 2 kann bei deinem Computer leicht anders aussehen, aber der Ventilatoranschluss ist der gleiche.

    I successfully removed my right fan, cleaned it and installed it back. But when it came to the left one I accidentally broke the connector from the logic board. Now I'm left with only one functioning fan. I'm using an external laptop fan. Do I have to replace the whole logic board or can it be fixed somehow? My temp is between 90-95 C when I run a heavy game.

    khalid alodan -

    I made the same mistake! Did you solve it?

    Rosario -

    In case anyone else accidentally breaks a fan connector, check the comment on step #14. It is basically the same connection, so that should work here.

    Relevant part of comment - “To replace it, I removed the socket, held it in place against the solder pads and ran a 750degF soldering iron across the pads. It's definitely reattached it, I'm not sure how good the electrical contacts are yet.”

    John -

  9. xMKfOIWvUcHXWSKH

    • Hebe den linken Ventilator aus dem oberen Gehäuse.

    If you’re just looking to remove fluff that can block the fan outlets, you don’t need to disconnect fan power connector from the logic board header (Step 6) - the fans on my MacBook Pro kept spinning up to max speed (6200rpm) so I removed the three T6 Torx screws (Step 5) and carefully lifted the fan to oneside removed the fluff with a toothpick and replaced the fan and screws — repeated this for both left and right fans

    Kev Salmon -

  10. XYgKyyR4VJlGpVcv

    • Der rechte Ventilator ist mit drei Torx T6 Schrauben am oberen Gehäuse befestigt. Drehe sie heraus.

    on my screwdriver set, the T6 screw driver felt wobbly. It felt like I would strip the screw if not careful. So I used a T7 screw driver, and it was much more snug.

    Bryan Chun -

    Same here. T6 did not fit at all. Too small.

    Bummer. Will have to screw my MBP back together and get a T7 on Monday…

    Oliver Nielsen -

  11. cIwTbXbH4oEZIVHs
    cIwTbXbH4oEZIVHs
    IS5NusyQfhIBgSRZ

    • Heble den Verbinder des rechten Ventilators mit dem flachen Ende eines Spudgers aus seinem Sockel auf dem Logic Board..

    • Es ist praktisch, wenn du den Spudger unter den Drähten des Kabel ansetzt und der Länge nach verdrehst.

    • Entferne den rechten Ventilator vom oberen Gehäuse.

    There is no way to reconnect the fan cable. It looks like it was soldered onto the logic board. I disconnected it and can't reconnect it.

    Has this happened to anyone else.

    Vicki -

    Vicki, you tore the connector off the board. They can be re-soldered if you are very careful/skilled with a soldering iron, but that is not something that you should try to do if you haven't soldered SMD components before.

    rcoleskelton -

  12. GPVO4Ehoh1AETtlb

    • Hebe den Airport/Bluetooth Kabelverbinder mit dem flachen Ende des Spudgers aus seinem Sockel auf dem Logic Board.

    • Klappe das AirPort/Bluetoothkabel zurück, um das Logic Board nicht zu behindern

  13. O1PQny1T2ESKQwa5

    • Löse das iSight Kabel, indem du seinen Verbinder in Richtung der Öffnung für das optische Laufwerk hin ziehst.

    I was afraid to pull too hard, but wiggling it worked! :)

    Mark -

    This is NOT good advice, ifixit! You should never pull a cable but rather pull or push its connector. In this case, it went well for me the first time, but the second time I pulled the cable out of its connector and now my iSight camera is not working anymore. Thanks, ifixit. Not!

    Rather, use plastic (so you don’t short-circuit anything) tweezers or two tooth-picks or so and push the connector out of its socket.

    That’s actually who it’s described in Apples repair manual for this device that — I think — I also found on this webpage somewhere.

    So: PUSH, don’t pull!

    Colonel Task -

  14. oYGESTZdeZHMQFlk

    • Heble den Verbinder zum Kabel des optischen Laufwerks mit dem flachen Ende des Spudgers aus seinem Sockel auf dem Logic Board.

    • Klappe das Kabel zurück, um das Logic Board nicht zu behindern.

    hello i just installed a brand new logic board in my mac, in my mac i have replaced the cd drive with an second ssd - but when i turn the mac on, the OS cant find the second ssd, the cable is in (it clicks in) - does anybody know how to fix this or ?

    Best regards Mathias

    mathiastondering -

  15. SekMnRrwpFQ6sKfQ

    • Hebe vorsichtig den Verbinder des Subwoofers/rechten Lautsprecherkabels aus seinem Sockel auf dem Logic Board.

    Same problem as with step 11. I pried up the connector as shown and can't reconnect it. It looks like it may have been soldered to the logic board. How can this be fixed?

    Vicki -

    The only problem that I face on substituting the top case was when I tried to connect the subwoofer connector to the socket on the logic board. I did some tentatives but on the last the socket on the logic board I suppose unsoldered. Some suggestions?

    Thanks

    Paolo Sperati

    paolosperati63 -

    I did step 16 (disconnecting the hard drive cable) first and then came back to this step - worked for me

    Colin White -

    This connector is just like the ones used for the fans (but has a cushion-like protection over it). Just take it apart just like in steps 8 and 11.

    Andres Lartitegui -

  16. 3HPg13CsbrDBQBWx

    • Hebe mit dem flachen Ende des Spudgers den Verbinder der Festplattenkabels aus seinem Sockel auf dem Logic Board.

  17. RwWnMGTsxSQSvJIm
    RwWnMGTsxSQSvJIm
    wZ2SCGMbhBikwKQR

    • Entferne die beiden kurzen Kreuzschlitzschrauben, die das kleine EMI-Abschrimung am Logic Board befestigen.

    • Entferne die EMI-Abschirmung vom Logic Board.

    Mine was stuck to the Keyboard Ribbon Cable; needed an extra pull, but it's safe and should come off - it's not attached to anything. :)

    Mark -

  18. TTD4Myj2tc6ARsc1

    • Heble den Verbinder zum Trackpad mit dem flachen Ende des Spudgers aus seinem Sockel auf dem Logic Board.

  19. XfNU6hTFqSMgJRxL
    XfNU6hTFqSMgJRxL
    vAIFLSbGELD65Y1t

    • Klappe die Halteklappe des Verbinders des Tastaturflachbandkabels mit dem Fingernagel hoch.

    • Klappe nur die scharnierartige Klappe hoch, keinesfalls den Sockel selbst.

    • Löse das Flachbandkabel der Tastatur mit der Spitze des Spudgers aus seinem Sockel.

    How will I know I have inserted the keyboard ribbon successfully? After installing a new upper case I can't seem to get the keyboard ribbon to stay in its socket. Or does the EMI sheild hold it in place?

    Cem Catikkas -

    Ditto. It seems very tricky to reinsert the keyboard ribbon.

    GrooveStomp -

    I just did this - it is kinda tricky. The ribbon cable has a flap on top that is designed solely to help you coax the cable back into the socket....don't make the mistake I did and spend an hour trying to feed this flap through the socket. What worked for me was a combination of using the flap with my fingers and tweezers on the actual cable to reinsert it into the socket. Took a few tries, but I got the cable re-inserted, pressed down on the tiny locking thing, and the keyboard cable was in and secured.

    dave -

    Indeed, it is difficult to insert the keyboard ribbon cable. It will stop after about 1mm of insertion. It needs to go in quite a bit further. Angling it slightly, you may be able to get a corner to go in, then straighten the ribbon while applying forward pressure. I reassembled it a few times with that sinking feeling on startup before I realized that it wasn't really making contact!

    dennishodge -

    I've replaced the keyboard, so reinserting the ribbon was particularly tricky. After several failed attempts, here's what finally dawned on me... I took a piece of scotch tape, maybe an inch long. I folded on end on itself, maybe a quarter inch from the top. That left a sticky zone and a non-sticky zone on the tape. I taped it to the ribbon, and was able to use the tape and a "handle" to pull the ribbon into the socket. Afterwards, I carefully removed the tape without pulling the ribbon out of the socket.

    Bryan Chun -

    This was the hardest part for me. Be sure you flip the release flap up before removing or re-inserting.

    Jonathan Daiello -

    This might be obvious to some, but for those for whom it is not, this info is very important. First: only the ribbon is what needs to be pulled out (and inserted later on) not any of the black plastic casing. Second: before you try to pull the ribbon out, you need to flip up the release flap so its vertical (this is the thin black part that is located on the top edge of the black casing). If you don’t do this you will damage the casing or the ribbon or both.

    Greg -

    Vraiment dommage que ce point de blocage très sensible ne soit pas plus développer, il peut compromettre tout le travail et l’état de la machine, c’est la grosse erreur de ce tuto.

    Pour l’instant, je ne suis pas parvenu à retirer ce connecteur et je crains que l’impatience me fasse commettre une erreur irréparable.

    pc-design -

    the flap mentionned is the plastic part the most far to the ribbon, not the part where the finger seem to be pulling. The flap comes off easily.

    Paraita Wohler -

  20. QHFtcPpiHS61kHvF

    • Löse den Verbinder der Akkuanzeige mit dem flachen Ende des Spudgers aus seinem Sockel auf dem Logic Board.

    Can anyone tell me what the little gold-colored button or switch is on the left side of the cab let connector?

    michael crawford -

    On mine, the plastic tab was almost completely hidden under some fabric-like tape on top of connector.

    Make sure to grab only the glossy plastic tab and pull it up, which rotates upward a metal hinge on the removable part of the connector. That metal hinge is then used as a handle to pull the connector straight out (flat) toward MagSafe.

    I didn’t see the plastic tab, and first pulled up the tape. That caused the metal hinge to pop off. Upon close inspection, it was easy to see where the hinge attached at each end to the top assembly. whew!

    prreitz -

  21. wUQSufkBp5XlHxat
    wUQSufkBp5XlHxat
    DJtfFP1xHDfVqFvy
    Yco5WhRXy1DTRNVl

    • Fasse die Zuglasche aus Kunststoff, die an der Sicherung des Displaykabels befestigt ist, und drehe sie in Richtung der Seite mit der Stromeingangsbuchse am Computer.

    • Ziehe das Displaykabel aus seinem Sockel .

    • Ziehe das Kabel nicht hoch, da der Sockel sehr empfindlich ist. Ziehe parallel zur Oberfläche des Logic Boards.

    One of the chips in this image was covered in glue. when I flipped the data cable clip, the glue plus encased chip popped right off the board. Does anyone know what chip this is? Without it, my Mac plays the startup chime, but the screen is black. The backlight is on, but it just displays black.

    https://www.dropbox.com/s/befonnaz125fn9...

    Jon -

    I did the exact same thing. I still have the tiny chip. Is there a way to glue it back on or will I need a new logic board now?

    Louis Adams -

    There's a bracket / handle clip attached to the display port. I didn't know it was there and accidentally bent it off. Can't get it back on, but it seems to work OK without it.

    Bryan Chun -

    The pull tab has a small rectangular frame. I used this to gently pull out the plug with both hands, rather than pulling on the cable like in the photo. This worked well.

    Bryan Kring -

  22. YTojQMdSVoWiyVrE
    YTojQMdSVoWiyVrE
    JqngHRNTA6BKReHw

    • Klappe die Halteklammer am Anschluss des Flachbandkabels der Tastaturbeleuchtung mit der Spitze des Spudgers oder deinem Fingernagel hoch.

    • Achte darauf, dass du wirklich nur die scharnierartige Klappe, nicht den Sockel selbst hochklappst.

    • Ziehe das Flachbandkabel der Tastaturbeleuchtung aus seinem Sockel.

    I couldn’t see the flap as mine was already popped up. Try looking at it from the side to get a better view of the state of yours.

    Cyrille -

    broke it! be really careful

    zoharargaman -

    I did too. The whole connector actually popped off the board. Were you able to fix yours?

    Dylan -

    I posted a question on this as well. I have an Early 2013 Macbook Retina, and I accidentally popped off the flex cable connectors to the fans. From doing some research, it seems like you can solder it back on but I have no experience in that. Would anyone know where to start, and where to get the tools?

    Tif -

  23. LmMo5UIWC3T1ELDa

    • Drehe folgende Schrauben heraus:

    • Sieben 3,3 mm T6 Torx Schrauben, die das Logic Board am oberen Gehäuse befestigen.

    • Zwei 8 mm T6 Torx Schrauben, die das DC-In Board am oberen Gehäuse befestigen.

    • Entferne das Logic Board noch nicht! Es gibt noch Bauteile auf seiner Unterseite, die mit dem oberen Gehäuse verbunden sind und erst noch getrennt werden müssen.

  24. OpJpd5X4HTMLVTuk

    • Hebe die ganze Einheit mit dem Logic Board vorsichtig auf der linken Seite an und aus dem oberen Gehäuse heraus. Achte dabei darauf, dass sich die Ports nicht verfangen.

    • Entferne das Logic Board immer noch nicht ganz!

    I just took one apart that had some pretty strong adhesive holding the speaker onto the upper case. I had to slip a spudger underneath and pry it up, else it was going to overly bend the mobo before it would release.

    jkamis -

    My board was stuck to the bottom plastic. I had to gently release it by pushing the black plastic beneath the board down, while carefully moving the board upward.

    Jonathan Daiello -

  25. egJsJR41OofDsu4x

    • Hebe das Board soweit an, dass du mit einem Spudger das Mikrofon aus dem oberen Gehäuse hebeln kannst.

    On this step, the microphone was attached to the board so the whole unit lifted off easily.

    seandodd -

    Mine was too; it was part of the speaker assembly, a much better arrangement.

    maccentric -

    me too on model number A1286

    mid 2009

    15 inch

    Balloon Wrangler -

    I have a Mid 2010 15 inch and had one more connection in the corner that needed to be removed, so be careful!!

    Scott Hopper -

  26. IrYRPEX26EM1seMc

    • Ziehe das Logic Boards Port-Öffnungen weg und hebe die Einheit aus dem oberen Gehäuse.

    • Bevor du das Logic Board wieder einbaust, ist es am einfachsten, wenn du das Mikrofon in seine Öffnung im linken Lautsprecher wieder eindrückst, damit es an seinen Platz bleibt.

    • Um einen Schaden durch elektrostatische Entladungen zu vermeiden, achte darauf, dass das Logic Board während der Reparatur auf einer weichen antistatischen Oberfläche liegt.

    After prying off the mic from the top case and carefully lifting the logic board, I realized there was still a wire connected near the display connector, under the board. I was able to disconnect it but I'm wondering if I missed something or if this cable is missing from the instructions. The wire was connected under the board so it could not be disconnected before removing the board.

    Laurent Daudelin -

    This is the magsafe cable. Step 23 details removing the torx screws holding the magsafe board in place. If you remove the screws, you don't need to remove the cable.

    supersuade -

  27. PkpujMyEdERQjuBN
    PkpujMyEdERQjuBN
    CqAH5UDJpp1LWViU

    • Entferne die beiden Kreuzschlitzschrauben, mit denen die Festplattenhalterung am oberen Gehäuse befestigt ist.

    • Diese Schrauben bleiben in der Festplattenhalterung hängen.

    • Entferne die Festplattenhalterung vom oberen Gehäuse.

  28. tNsHO3tXCOTZAJrD

    • An der Festplatte ist eine Zuglasche angebracht. Hebe die Festplatte an dieser Zuglasche aus dem oberen Gehäuse heraus.

    • Versuche noch nicht, die Festplatte ganz zu entfernen, sie ist immer noch mit dem Festplattenkabel angeschlossen.

  29. MX4NKGQIVBAnVh5V
    MX4NKGQIVBAnVh5V
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    • Ziehe den Stecker der Festplatte aus seinem Anschluss an der Festplatte heraus.

    • Ziehe am Stecker, nicht am Kabel.

    • Entferne die Festplatte und lege sie zur Seite.

  30. e4Uy6g2MC6x6ZBVw

    • Entferne folgende vier Kreuzschlitzschrauben, mit denen das Kabel zur Festplatte/Infrarotsensor am oberen Gehäuse befestigt ist:

    • Zwei 2,5 mm Schrauben

    • Zwei 10 mm Schrauben

  31. lXFmmLYvhV3UB6ph
    lXFmmLYvhV3UB6ph
    SyqcxpyYWXPGedyr

    • Löse das Infrarotsensorkabel vorsichtig aus der Verklebung zum oberen Gehäuse.

    • Ziehe die Festplattenhalterung/Infrarotsensorfassung weg von der Seite des oberen Gehäuses.

    • Entferne das Festplattenkabel/Infrarotsensorkabel vom oberen Gehäuse.

  32. 13hSFQDLS6xIqZ4b

    • Hebele die drei Airport/Bluetooth-Antennenstecker mit der Spudgerspitze aus ihren Sockeln auf der AirPort/Bluetooth Karte.

  33. qKMjSEnLpF63pmlP
    qKMjSEnLpF63pmlP
    ILHTSRTMOSlZVvVD

    • Löse alle drei Antennenkabel aus ihren Kanälen im AirPort/Bluetooth Gehäuse.

    • Löse das Kamerakabel aus seinem Kanal im AirPort/Bluetooth Gehäuse.

  34. jHwH4yMOeuvBPT5C
    jHwH4yMOeuvBPT5C
    4MwK4cNUI1TZnE3w

    • Entferne die folgenden beiden Schrauben, mit denen die Airport Bluetooth-Fassung am oberen Gehäuse befestigt ist:

    • Eine 3,8 mm Kreuzschlitzschraube

    • Eine 8,6 mm Kreuzschlitzschraube

    • Entferne die AirPort/Bluetooth Einheit vom oberen Gehäuse. Achte dabei darauf, dass sich keine Kabel verfangen.

    I switched the colors denoting the 2 screws in this step. I can't speak for anyone else's, but in my MacBook Pro the screw on the left in the picture was twice as long as the screw pictured on the right. However, I guess I don't really understand editing on the site because my changes do not show up in the history or the document.

    Robert Ciaccio -

    Good catch! You didn't see your edits before because they do not take effect until an admin goes through and approves them to ensure the accuracy of the edit.

    Andrew Bookholt -

    Cool, thanks! Glad to help :)

    Robert Ciaccio -

    What can I do when the 3.8 screw is stuck? Any special trick to get it out?

    James Cauwelier -

  35. VfsbrpvHQvFP1DoK
    VfsbrpvHQvFP1DoK
    QUHEv1VTBYqiMRfv

    • Entferne die drei Kreuzschlitzschrauben, mit denen das optische Laufwerk am oberen Gehäuse befestigt ist.

    • Eine 4,5 mm Kreuzschlitzschraube, mit der die Halterung des optischen Laufwerks in der Nähe des Lüfters am oberen Gehäuse befestigt ist.

    • Zwei 2,5 mm Kreuzschlitzschrauben, mit denen das optische Laufwerk in der Nähe der Öffnung für das optische Laufwerk befestigt ist.

    • In manchen Fällen sind alle drei Schrauben 2,5 mm lang.

    • Entferne das optische Laufwerk vom oberen Gehäuse.

  36. Vd6avnDvkNXLNfxq
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    • Entferne die folgenden sechs Kreuzschlitzschrauben, mit denen der Subwoofer und der rechte Lautsprecher am oberen Gehäuse befestigt sind:

    • Zwei 3,2 mm Schrauben

    • Zwei 12,3 mm Schrauben

    • Eine 2,5 mm Schraube

    • Eine 8,3 mm Schraube

    • Entferne den Subwoofer und den rechten Lautsprecher aus dem oberen Gehäuse.

  37. Pdoceqbx3HtHXN6a
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    • Entferne die 8,6 mm Kreuzschlitzschraube, mit der die Halterung des Antennen-/Kamerakabels am oberen Gehäuses befestigt ist.

    • Entferne die Halterung des Antennen-/ Kamerakabels aus dem oberen Gehäuse.

  38. SEAUAOTSj13yyi5s
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    • Entferne die einzelne 8,6 mm Kreuzschlitzschraube, mit der die Halterung des Displaydatenkabels am oberen Gehäuse befestigt ist.

    • Entferne die Halterung des Displaydatenkabels vom oberen Gehäuse.

  39. iZIIN2H6bSVHV1qD

    • Entferne zwei der drei 6 mm Torx T6 Schrauben, mit denen die rechte Seite des Displays am oberen Gehäuse befestigt ist.

    • Eine Schraube haben wir absichtlich noch dringelassen, das erleichtert das weitere Vorgehen.

  40. yuhET1oTaAJKcRBt

    • Entferne zwei der drei 6 mm Torx T6 Schrauben, mit denen die linke Seite des Displays am oberen Gehäuse befestigt ist.

    • Eine Schraube haben wir absichtlich noch dringelassen, das erleichtert das weitere Vorgehen.

  41. cqbM4W4CdETLrp1l

    • Öffne das MacBook Pro so, dass das Display rechtwinklig zum oberen Gehäuse steht.

    • Stelle das geöffnete Gerät wie gezeigt auf den Tisch.

    • Halte Display und oberes Gehäuse mit der linken Hand zusammen. Drehe dann die verbliebene T6 Torx Schraube aus der oberen Displayhalterung.

  42. vwyQypDuSUlh2XF1

    • Achte darauf, das Display und das obere Gehäuse weiterhin mit der Hand zusammenzuhalten. Wenn du das nicht tust, kann das Display/obere Gehäuseteil herunterfallen und unter Umständen kann jede Komponente beschädigt werden.

    • Drehe die letzte verbliebene T6 Torx Schraube, die das Display noch am oberen Gehäuse befestigt, heraus.

  43. CtGOM3rkqk2rDioi
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    • Fasse das obere Gehäuseteil mit der rechten Hand an und drehe es leicht in Richtung Oberkante des Displays. Dadurch kommt die obere Displayhalterung vom Gehäuse frei.

    • Drehe das Display leicht weg vom Gehäuse.

    • Hebe das Display hoch und weg vom oberen Gehäuseteil, achte dabei darauf, dass sich keine Halterungen oder Kabel verfangen.

Abschluss

Um dein Gerät wieder zusammenbauen, folge den Schritten in umgekehrter Reihenfolge.

Tinte & Feder

Andrew Bookholt

578335 Reputation

8 Kommentare

In my experience, re-inserting the battery connector to the mobo is a pain with the battery in place. There is very little room to maneuver the connector and reconnect it - after several very careful attempts, I got the connector back on, but next time I'm removing the battery.

dave -

Great, easy repair (at least for me).

I only had problems with a 2.5 mm phillips screw, the one holding the right speaker assembly from the side. I needed to use a drill to drill it from the center away.

So 100% success, 1 screw less.

jacopochiapparino -

I am having a heck of a time reinserting this keyboard ribbon cable. The first time I powered up, only the left side of the keyboard worked. I tried reinserting, and all further attempts have resulted in no keyboard response at all. The ribbon is starting to "dogear" a tiny bit in the corners, so I am hesitant to try my current technique too many more times. I'd really like to do this correctly. Has anyone had luck slightly removing the logic board to aid in getting a better angle on inserting the cable? Any help would be appreciated!!!

rylandkoopus -

A number of these steps are unnecessary to replace the upper case. For example, there is no reason why the hard drive needs to be removed. After getting to the steps where the upper display hinges are removed, I couldn't see any reason why the logic board needed removal. My advice would be to disconnect the battery. Then perform Step 21 (disconnecting the display cable). Then perform Step 32 (disconnect Airport/Bluetooth antenna cables). Then proceed to Step 37 and complete the guide from there. If you encounter any part that's in your way (perhaps the edge of the logic board might prevent the upper display case from being pulled away from the lower case), just go back through this guide and follow the directions to remove only that particular part. But just be aware that quite a few steps in this guide are not necessary, and it is certainly not true that "Replacing the upper case requires removal of nearly every component inside your MacBook Pro 15" Unibody Mid 2010."

Chris Dahler -

The hard drive and logic board are installed in the upper case. How could you not remove them? You'd be rebuilding your computer with the new upper case, without a logic board or keyboard. You aren't confusing the upper case for the display, are you? This guide is about replacing the top case, which is the part where the keyboard is, not the display.

John M -

The high quality hardback leather construction minimizes potential damage to your laptop from knocks and scratches, and the vintage book design disguises it, reducing the chance of theft. http://bestapplecases.com/best-macbook-p...

nuna -

Fantastic guide, thanks!

I'd suggest adhesive for reaffixing the sticky strips but not sure what kind would be best, mine had just enough old glue attached to them.

There was a tiny padded mesh chunk (maybe em shielding?) stuck to the back of the keyboard that did not have enough sticky stuff left on it, I did not put this into the new case as I wasn't sure if it had been glued with conductive or nonconductive adhesive and didn't want to risk it coming loose and shorting something.

If you have the time to post re-assembly steps they would be very useful.

Thanks again.

naomijarvis -

Hello there,

allow me one question. I have a C2D 2.66 SD MacBook Pro 15", Mid 2009.

a few months ago, it fell and in result the case is damaged in the corner, but it works fine! although dust accumulation is noticeable and common.

A couple of days ago, I found a business opportunity, a Mid 2010 i5 15" Macbook Pro, which seems to have all the cases in good condition. I'm thinking it could be a good opportunity to refurbish mine, by replacing all my cases with the cases from this one.

So my question is: Can I replace my Mid 2009 Macbook Cases with the ones from this Mid 2010? Although it's an i5 instead of a C2D...?

I know the batteries differ... apparently mine is 73 W h Li-Poly, the other is 77.5 W h Li-Poly...

can anyone help please?

Thank you

ChristianLoeffler -