MacBook Pro 15" Retina Display Mitte 2015 SSD ersetzen

Geschrieben von: Sam Goldheart
  • Kommentare: 146
MacBook Pro 15" Retina Display Mitte 2015 SSD ersetzen

Schwierigkeitsgrad

Mittel

Schritte

7

Zeitaufwand

20 - 30 Minuten

Einleitung

Diese Anleitung zeigt, wie du die Solid State Drive (SSD) in deinem MacBook Pro 15" Retina Display Mitte 2015 ersetzen oder upgraden kannst. Dieses MacBook Pro benutzt proprietäre Stecker am Speichermedium und ist deshalb ohne Adapter nicht kompatibel zu gewöhnlichen M.2 Laufwerken.

Führe, wenn irgend möglich, vor der Reparatur ein Backup deiner SSD durch. Mache dich dann vertraut mit der Wiederherstellung über das Internet, oder erzeuge ein bootfähiges externes Laufwerk, so dass du macOS auf dein neues Laufwerk installieren und deine Daten auf die neue SSD übertragen kannst.

Wir empfehlen sehr die Installation von macOS 10.14 Mojave (oder eine neuere Version von macOS), bevor du die originale SSD deines MacBook Air austauschst. Die meisten neueren SSD erfordern neuere Laufwerkstreiber, die es in macOS Versionen vor 10.14 Mojave noch nicht gab.

  1. 4IpJ4MbMOfcwDVDi

    • Entferne die folgenden P5 Pentalobe Schrauben, mit denen das untere Gehäuseteil am MacBook Pro befestigt ist:

    • Acht 3,1 mm

    • Zwei 2,3 mm

    The number of screws listed here is wrong on my model. I had four of the smaller size.

    anonymous 1286 -

    Just to add to my comment above (I can't edit it because it's anonymous), my MacBook Pro is a mid-2015 15in model 2.8GHz (A1398; EMC2881). For the bottom case it uses six 3.1mm screws, and four 2.3mm screws at the clutch/hinge side of the MacBook Pro. I tried using a 3.1mm screw at the clutch/hinge end, as described in the main article, and they don't fit. It has to be four 2.3mm screws.

    anonymous 1286 -

    The instructions below have you basically taking ALL of the guts out of case. I’ve been doing my own apple repairs since before ifixit was a thing and this one is a handful. My battery was swelling and I wanted to remove it before it burst or bent the case so I took it out without having a replacement and it occurs to me that aside from using the solvent (liquid) to remove the adhesive, you could probably do this only taking the trackpad ribbon out. I have mine reassembled now and will research the best battery to buy but I think installation will take about 5 minutes. See if you can slip a plastic gift card under the battery and wag/saw the adhesive out without the solvent before you go through all of this. It might work. Note, don’t bend or put too much stress on the battery and certainly don’t puncture it…

    br1ansk -

    Battery Recall for 15-inch MacBook Pro Retina mid-2015. Check Apple’s site for recalls, and put in your serial number. They replaced my swelling battery for free, regardless of warranty.

    Steve -

    As we are only replacing the battery, you can safely skip steps 6-26 and 28-48, no need to disassemble the computer to pull out the battery. Use nail polisher remover I was able to pull a super bloated battery out, without disassembling my MacBook.

    John Sikking -

    I qualified for the recall. These bloated batteries are dangerous! DO NOT, UNDER ANY CIRCUMSTANCES, PUNCTURE THE BATTERIES!

    Thanks for the heads-up on the recall.

    Datajockeys -

    I’m having a problem trying to get the screws off. I have a set of pentalobe screwdriver set. I found one screwdriver that fits perfectly on one set of screws, but I am unable to unscrew it. I tried using some force pushing the screwdriver into the screw, but nothing happens. Any suggestions?

    henry_k_wong -

    All the screws on mine are the same length for some reason.

    ccfman2004 -

    I would recommend the first step is: Run the battery down to ZERO before doing any next step. This reduces risk to you, people nearby, to the MBP and greatly reduces the risk of fire. Step 2 should be: Double-check that the battery is at zero.

    I like others listed below and on YouTube, disagree with these full tear down 70+ steps being the only focus. I get that I have to be careful not to get the acetone solvent near the speakers. I skipped 25+ steps by: tilting the MBP away from the speakers and using very little acetone solvent. More pressure with the plastic cards and only a few drops of solvent. While giving the full set of instructions is fine it should be very clear that you can (at the user’s own risk) do this.

    Kenneth Schleede -

    As above—I consider full disassembly to be far riskier to fragile cables and connectors than the risk for solvent spillage. I did steps 1-5 and 46-74. No issues. I HIGHLY recommend the iFixit magnetic Project Mat. It’s a white marker board surface gridded into squares and invaluable for labeling part sizes/steps in disassembly.

    philtrit -

    As above too. I benefitted from the advice. From step 51 onwards, I found a easier way using tip from China battery seller. Use a 2” width plastic scraper/plastic paint scraper to poke under the battery. Use moderate strength to poke and avoid rough handling of the battery so as not to puncture it. There is no need to pry the battery to avoid stressing it, just use a firm poking action under the battery and the double sided tape adhesive will yield. After 5 min of such poking, the entire battery pack can be removed without the hassle of pouring the adhesive remover from step 51 onwards. Get a scraper with a stronger handle so that it is more comfortable to poke.

    https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32889670...

    Emma Pn -

    Heads up as you go…we (husband/wife team) had a notebook that when screws/covers were removed, we marked the step # and actually taped the screws into the notebook noted by the step number. This was very helpful on reassembly and we knew we would be using the exact screw into the original screw hole.

    Ann Brainard -

    After replacing the batteries myself, I wouldn’t even consider doing it again. Not that it’s difficult to do—that’s not the issue. The issue is aftermarket batteries. I’ve been using notebooks for well over 30 years, and never had satisfaction with aftermarket batteries.

    Modern lithium batteries are an amazing technological feat, but a dangerous one. So even putting aside that I’ve never found any aftermarket batteries with quality anywhere near original, I learned “cheap” aftermarket lithium batteries are downright dangerous.

    After doing research into what’s involved with manufacturing lithium batteries, I know there are so many corners to cut, you’ll end up with junk regardless of what you pay.

    A week after replacing my batteries with those from iFixit, they showed clear signs of failure. Thank goodness iFixit refunded my money.

    After having Apple replace my batteries, everything is back to like-new. For my $199, I got not only excellent batteries, but a new keyboard and trackpad as well. That’s it’s done!!!

    AnnoniMoose -

    I found an Apple Support link that said MBP battery replacement was $199, but the 2 Apple Stores near my house would not provide any appointments. Instead, I scheduled an appointment with and “Apple Authorized Service Provider” & that repair center quoted about $750 to replace the battery.

    I refused, went home, & opened a chat with Apple Support.

    After a lengthy & painful chat session where the Apple tech didn’t want to provide a battery replacement quote (he feared other issues with the MBPr), he finally gave me an Apple price of just under $650 to replace the battery.

    Did you go into an Apple store, or mail it in? I’m struggling to reconcile a price of $199 to get a battery + keyboard + trackpad against what I was just quoted 2 weeks ago. The new track pad & keyboard might have been due to repair tech error. i.e. they trashed those repairing your batter & had to toss them in.

    Bartt.Shelton@gmail.com -

    I took mine in after being quoted for a $199 replacement of battery and keyboard, only to have the repair refused as they found a "water sensor" triggered and now I'm left with my AUD$5,000 laptop with messed up keys. Shame on me for not getting this repaired during COVID while under warranty. This is the first time I've truly been disappointed in Apple, but suppose it was bound to happen someday. I was quoted US$ 1479 to replace the battery and keyboard and the sensor (likely the logic board is replaced as well) if I were to send it in to the US repair center. Any chance these sensors can be triggered by humidity?

    C0RT -

    I 1000% recommend watching this video and performing the battery replacement without all these steps from this guide and without using the acetone solvent. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ImonCWcc... (15" inch Retina MacBook Pro A1398 Mid 2015 Disassembly Battery Replacement Repair)

    The video is narrated well and the guy goes slow and zooms in where appropriate. Instead of removing all components, he simply removes the track pad cable, battery cable, and unscrews two of the speaker screws on each side. From there, you can lift up the speaker arms where the video guy uses a thin pry tool to push through the sticky tape. No solvent is needed except for residual sticky stuff leftover.

    Instead of the thin pry tool, I just used the plastic cards that came with this ifixit kit. It takes a little force and wiggle/jiggle so take your time using the corner of the card to start.

    This method makes a difficult 2-3hr job into a much easier 1hr job.

    Spencer -

    +1 for this approach! I watched the video that Spencer mentioned. It took me a little over an hour, and it was stress-free. https://youtu.be/ImonCWcc1xk

    Chris Wicklas -

    Another +1 - I followed the video pretty exactly (after having already gone through steps 1-5 here). I'm not sure it's necessary to clean off the adhesive residue as thoroughly as he demonstrates in the video, but the instructions were clear and the end results were good - trackpad still working fine and new battery already charged to 50%.

    Jeff Zinn -

    Glad I read these comments before plunging into the iFixit instructions.

    +1 for skipping the iFixit instructions and using the youtube video linked by Spencer.
    I followed the instructions and had my battery replacement done succesfully.
    Instead of the metal spatula like thing he used - I used the plastic ifixit credit card things that came with my battery kit.
    It took about 15 minutes of wiggling under the battery to free it from the adhesive but it wasn't too bad.
    I did remove the residual adhesive as he indicated with isopropyl alcohol - but after finishing my installation I realized it was completely unnecessary. You can install the new battery over the residual gunk and skip that step.

    picardo -

    Yes! This YouTube tutorial works great and it was really easy to replace the battery. I needed about 75 minutes.

    Perform steps 1-5,

    Then skip to step 41.

    In 41 + 43 do not unscrew the red marked screws.

    In 42 an 45 just lift the speakers, do not remove them.

    Skip 44

    Up from 53, I did not use the glue remover, the plastic cards were enough.

    In step 63 watch out to start from the middle. This prevents you from peeling up the lower „platform“.

    Great job :-)

    weekendiac -

  2. 3ACAiQYIJd3tknWX
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    • Von der Kante, die dem Scharnier am nächsten liegt, hebst du das untere Gehäuseteil vom MacBook Pro weg.

    If you buy the entire kit, make sure you use the opening tool! I cut both of my index fingers trying to slide it off.

    Catherine Nath -

    Additionally, this is an “opportunity” to clean the cooling fans - and any other obvious dust magnets - with a can of compressed air. On the laptop I worked on, the cooling fans had sufficient dust to not “spin” freely - showing signs of “drag”. After blasting each cooling fan with compressed air (including from the exhaust vent side, as hitting the fins alone wasn’t adequate), they both spin freely now. No obvious signs of battery swelling on mine, but lack of adequate airflow could have been a factor with original battery aging/failure.

    Zathras -

    Good opportunity to give a good clean out. Air duster and small clean paint brush on plastic surfaces to clean up essential vents and fans. You can load fan monitor and control software to see what your your system is doing and how it improves with a clean up.

    Robin Razzell -

  3. DT2pWi5FUTaKUDnr
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    • Das untere Gehäuse hat zwei Plastikstifte (rot), die in die Plastikklammern im oberen Gehäuse passen (orange).

    • Beim Wiedereinbau die Mitte des unteren Gehäuses vorsichtig nach unten drücken, um das Gehäuse wieder an die beiden Kunststoffklammern anzubringen.

    pretty hard to put it back, so I just remove the clips on the upper case....

    jamiegan835 -

    The trick to putting it back on is to guide your fingers to the same level as the clips, and then when you put the case down move your hand from the left side of the case to the right side of the case; applying pressure when you reach the area where the clips are.

    Aaron Freidus -

    Impossible to put those peds into the upper case clips! It just does not hold there, it fits but just does the ‘click’ sound and goes back. Is it possible to buy those clips as spare part? Thank you for help.

    Lopez Loku -

    Same for me. It just never clips, regardless of the precision and the amount of force I apply.

    Vadym Borodin -

    I also think I stripped the screws holding the clips in place. Does anyone know what screw characteristics should I look for as a replacement?

    Vadym Borodin -

    Bloated battery had already popped my clips.

    jecottrell65 -

  4. f5tSVDDMurTwTaYO

    • Ziehe den Aufkleber ab, der den Akkustecker abdeckt.

    You only need to remove the tape to the edge of the flap. This is enough to be able to pry the battery connector up.

    Aaron Freidus -

    +1 to above comment

    Andrew Saunders -

    Note that the photo is taken from the hinge side - the other way to the photo in step 3

    Toby Thurston -

    I chanced it, didnt disconnect the battery and all is well even after giving the insides a good vacuuming before changing the SSD.

    Dermot O Logical -

    It is just the top layer of tape that you want to lift, you need to seperate it from the bottom layer.

    Kelv -

    You don’t actually need to remove the tape or even peel it off at all. Just pull up the battery connector up with the tape still attached.

    AJ Lorenzo -

    pay attention that the macbook in this picture is presented the “wrong side”: if you accidentally remove the tape covering the trackpad cable and thereby also take the trackpad cable out of the zif-socket, your keyboard and trackpad won’t work anymore. putting the trackpad cable back into the (tiny) socket will fix the issue though.

    sam -

  5. Q4ZkDAWhUSCTyhAV
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    viOxgCPZueHIeVko

    • Hebe vorsichtig jede Seite des Akkusteckers an, um ihn aus seinem Anschluss auf dem Logic Board herauszuziehen.

    • Biege den Stecker in Richtung Akku zurück, und stelle sicher, dass der Akkustecker nicht versehentlich mit dem Logic Board in Berührung kommt.

    why is this necessary to remove a hard drive?

    Lawtay -

    @lawrencetaylor On any electronics repair, you need to disconnect all sources of power before you start. It’s a basic safety precaution and also removes the risk of accidentally shorting a connection somewhere (which can potentially kill your MacBook).

    Jeff Suovanen -

    I chanced it, didnt disconnect the battery and all is well even after giving the insides a good vacuuming before changing the SSD.

    Dermot O Logical -

    Picture doesn’t match the computer. Hard to tell which connector to disconnect

    James Mitchell -

    Hi James, are you sure you have the correct guide for your machine? Try using our MacBook Identification tool.

    Sam Goldheart -

    Habe den Akkustecker beim putzen abgemacht um keinen Stromschlag zu kriegen, jetzt wieder eingebaut. Nun habe ich folgendes Problem: Akku wird geladen, aber steigt niemals ueber % und manchmal geht er trotz Anschluss an das Stromnetz einfach aus. Hat da jemand eine Idee?

    paul -

    I used the identification tool and can confirm what James is seeing. The picture doesn’t match for this step. There is no piece with visible holes punched in it.

    Joshua McFarland -

    There is an extra piece of plastic on the connector, you might want to peel that off too. It’s not in the pictures.

    Ellie B -

    There is a battery cover with two T5 screws that must be removed before prying on the connector.

    Dennis Newton -

    Hi Dennis,

    Thanks for bringing this up! I’ll work on verifying this and adjust the guide as needed.

    Arthur Shi -

    My battery connector had another layer of plastic on it that I removed first

    Kelv -

    For an A1398, the screws on the adjacent cover were T6, not T5; one of the tips in the battery kit was suitable.

    Zathras -

    I need dis board hw much

    Ebuka Ofodile -

    After separating the battery connector, I took the addd precaution of placing a folded post-it between the connector bank and the socket.

    Matt Fisher -

    You can also use a plastic tool to hold back the battery connector. My connector was under the plastic tab and had no screws. You may need to check the build version as there are a number of A1398 versions.

    Robin Razzell -

    When you install the new battery, it may look like the holes in the connector need to be slid on to the connector toward the rear of the mac. I tried bending the cable to make it work. This could damage the cables. You really need only push directly downward on the connector, as you pulled up on it to remove it initially. It will pop into place with a little pressure, just make sure it's lined up properly.

    Jeffrey Andrews -

    I had to use quite a lot of pressure to make the connector on my new battery pop all the way down. I thought it was down already when it was only half way, as I was afraid to use too much force. Maybe it varies between different battery brands, but just make sure that the connector should go all the way down and not have a gap between the two parts.

    Magnus W -

    " …ensuring that the battery connector doesn't accidentally make contact with the logic board."

    You appear to assume that everyone knows which item is the logic board. I can attest that not everyone does. Clarity here would be helpful.

    Mark -

    If you don't know what the/a logic board is, you probably shouldn't be opening devices.

    Art Hackett -

  6. g2Vpkq6xURfZTHcp

    • Entferne die einzelne 2,9 mm T5 Torx Schraube. Sie befestigt die SSD am Logic Board.

    Bonjour,

    voila j’ai un soucis, après plusieurs tentative avec différente marques de tournevis impossible de la dévisser je ne comprends pas

    miss.reira -

    This one is T6 on my Mid-2015 MBP.

    dja -

    Managed to get the base screws out with a flathead screwdriver but wouldn’t hack it on these so waiting delivery on a set of torx screwdrivers from eBay £2.98

    Kelv -

    Blimey, they arrived quickly! The T6 driver fitted the screwhead best.

    Kelv -

    My T5 worked. Better have a T5 and T6 Andy just in case.

    Kenneth Fate Jr -

  7. KrPPMr2olWWrnf3y
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    • Hebe das Ende der SSD hoch genug an, um sie über den Lautsprecher direkt dahinter zu führen.

    • Hebe die SSD nicht zu hoch an, sonst können die Kontakte oder der Anschluss beschädigt werden.

    • Ziehe die SSD gerade aus ihrem Anschluss auf dem Logic Board.

    I changed my SSD to a Samsung EVO 970 2tb. Much improved.

    Dennis Newton -

    Ey Dennis , the Samsung EVO 970 2tb , works fine ? or it need and adapter?

    David S -

    My SSD (bought from ifixit) is very difficult to fit fully into the socket, is it normal? I had to push a lot to be able to put the screw, it is quite scary!

    The geniune SSD is far easier to fit to the socket.

    lionel -

    Many thanks!

    Mr Beago -

    All M2 SSDS need an adapter. Almost all recent SSDs are M2.

    Art Hackett -

    I tripped over Mr. Underfoot (dachshund) and dropped my beloved (and well bestickered) MBP. The fan will start but it doesn't seem to boot. I'm hoping I can recover data from the SSD. Question: I understand that Apple's connector is non-standard -- is there a reverse adapter I can use?

    Stephen Turnbull -

Abschluss

Um dein Gerät wieder zusammenzusetzen, folge den Schritten in umgekehrter Reihenfolge.

Tinte & Feder

Sam Goldheart

Mitglied seit: 19/10/12

457712 Reputation

80 Kommentare

So guys, I got a couple of questions:

1. Is this model (MBP Retina Mid 2015/MacBookPro11,4 ) really upgradable? https://www.datenreise.de/en/macbook-pro... says otherwise.

2. Samsung 850 EVO or Samsung 850 PRO would work with the model mentioned above?

Eduardo Delai Correa -

Yes, it is upgradeable. At the time that article was published there was no drive on the market that would work. Now there is. No the Samsung 850 EVO or Pro would not work. As far as I know OWC is the only one that produces an after market drive that is compatible.

Chris Matlock -

I couldn't find the SSD that Chris mentioned. Would you please point out the exact model?

Jerry Zhong -

It’s the OWC Aura Pro X2, you can get it all the up to 2TB.

Stephen Agnew -

I think you could purchase a pcie to M2 adapter and fit a Samsung 950 Pro in there. 960 Pro is coming out soon though with higher performance.

tonynca7 -

I also wanna try the 960 pro on, but I have read an article about the 3rd party SSD support which saying OS X deny to boot from a 3rd party NVME drive, you have to do some hack before you can use it. Is it true?

cyl19910101 g -

how i can upgrade mt MacBook pro with retina mid-2015 ?

is Samsung evo 850 fit with my computer

Thanks

Turki -

I own a rMBP 15 w/ radeon 15" (w/ the radeon gpu) and pleeassee correct me if I'm wrong but i gotta feeling my SM0512G might be on the brink of failure.I do realize the low probability of such but I'm quite the power user and i've also had some problems with macOS sierra which have led me to "gpt > destroy" the part map 3x.

To be perfectly honest , I'm sh*ttng my pants out scared of running smart mont or whatever 3rd party tool in order to check its current wear levels;

- given that last time i did (couple of months ago - before the whole macOS issues) the wear was at 67%....

There have been no noticeable signs of degraded performance...but sometimes when i boot him up there does seem to be some graphics issues (such as they watch/clock being blacked or greyed or the occasional odd flickering of system issues (they're kinda hard to describe).

not sure what to do. Looking to replace the ssd but the one sold by owc is quite inferior (spec-wise) in comparison to the original.

Any thouhgts/recomendations?

Thx!

milanf11 -

which SSD is recommended, the OWC or this one..http://store.mcetech.com/mm/merchant.mvc...

If there are an better after market SSD than the 2 listed please let me know

Manveer Dhillon -

Hello~

I want to change my Macbook pro 15" SSD

Is M.2(Pcie) Suitable for MacBook Pro 15" Retina Display Mid 2015?

If I use INTEL SSD is Suitable too? or it just can use SAMSUNG?

Thank you so much!!!!!!

IFIXIT is awesome!

hahaloveya20 -

Hi Everyone, I Seem to Be Having This Folder Icon with a Question Mark inside whenever I Try To Boot my Macbook Pro mid 2015 Edition. Could It be the 1TB ssd inside or Somethings else. Pls Someone should Help me. Thnx

Victor -

Hey try this solution that i’ve researched

Try checking the disk if it has a problem by holding command + r while holidng the power button.

After you see the Apple logo, release the power button, and keep holding the command + R.

Once you saw the macOS utilities open the disk utility and click your MacBook Pro’s SSD.

Check if the S.M.A.R.T status says that it’s “Verified”

*If the S.M.A.R.T status of your SSD has anything other than verified on your MacBook Pro, there could be a problem on your SSD or the SSD cannot be detected

*If the S.M.A.R.T status of your SSD is verified continue following these steps.

Nathan Ingalla -

In disk utility, click a drop down arrow on it, Click the OS partition and click First Aid.

If the First aid couldn’t fix the problem, wipe your boot drive by clicking the erase function on it and set the file system as MacOS Extended (Journaled) and click erase.

After the wiping is complete, connect your MacBook to the internet and exit disk utility.

Once you closed the Disk utility, click the reinstall macOS and wait the reinstallation

(Note: Installation time may depend on your Mac and Internet Speed.)

After the reinstallation is complete, you will need to set up your user account and re-enter your iCloud credentials if you have.

Nathan Ingalla -

Hi everyone, I also have this folder icon with the question mark inside.

@its_therealnate proposed to check the disk in disk utility but for me, the disk does not appear in disk utility.

I had to push very hard to put the SSD fully into the socket, I don’t know if it is normal.

When I put back the former SSD, everything is working well.

Could it be because I did not push the new SSD enough into the socket? I afraid to push more than I did.

lionel -

OK, need a part number (amazon would be great) for a compatible 1T & 512GB for my mid 2015 15" MB Pro...

Steven Machado -

Is disconnecting the battery necessary just for a HDD change? Or is it here for informational purposes only?

Rob Benton -

Rob Benton - Better be safe that sorry. Always disconnect the battery.

Oros -

Hi their if I follow the instruction above I will obviosly restart my mac within the Time Machine that I have already made. Is it simple afterwards I just have to follow presidure.??? Tanks for your Help ….Simon

simon -

Question would the Samsung 860 evo work?

Jason Rose -

Has anyone tried to use an M.2 EVO 860 with 2TB capacity from Samsung yet? Any experiences made so far? Does it work without problems with OS X Sierra? Any comments would be helpful.

Yorh Ekin -

EVO 860 is SATA, it will not work. Macbook pro needs nvme ssd. Just finish my upgrade using ADATA SX8200NP 960GB (ASX8200NP-960GT-C), and adapter is from Amazon, “Sintech NGFF M.2 nVME SSD Adapter Card For Upgrade 2013-2015 MacBook”. Both works like charm. Only issue is that SMART status is unavailable.

Hao Li -

@panzerkiller my 970EVO & Sintech setup is showing SMART status on DriveDx, but not on Disk Utility for some reason.

Shazz Mahfudz -

Hi,

It seems there are two options currently on the market:

OWC Aura OWCSSDAB2M05 or -10 for 500GB or 1TB versions, respectively, and

Transcend TS480GJDM850 for 500GB (or TS960) for 1TB versions.

Does anyone have experience with the speed of these? I read that they are 33-50% slower. I’m guessing using an M2 with adapter is also a solution but probably even slower.

And I guess all of these are about double the price of regular SSDs if my research is correct.

MacFlo -

would a Crucial® MX500 Solid-State-Drive M.2 fit in ? or what would the best ssd be?

theoctopusride -

I used the crucial P1 SSD 1TB PCIe and adapter board and installed the MacOS Mojave and WINDOW10, which functions properly

juan chang -

Hi

I have a MacBook Pro mid 2015. I swapped it’s original 1TB for a 2TB. Two models I tried works:

The Hat SSD I got for around $ 350 on Ebay

The Samsung 960 Pro M2, with a Synthech adapter. It’s about three times the price of the Hat SSD… But the Samsung is also close to twice as fast as the original Apple SSD on my Black Magic Disk Speed test.

Be aware that the OWC external boxes DO NOT WORK for SSDs other than OWC and Apple. You have to plug the SSD to the mother board to test them (Samsung + Synthech adapter work)

You also have to run either Mojave or High Sierra.

fcapeilleres -

does this SSD work with a macbook pro retina 15 inch 2015 model? Samsung MZ-76P2T0B/EU 2 TB 860 Pro Sata III 64L V NAND Solid State Drive

Its Riyana -

Hi guys! Will the Apple 256gb SSD that I pulled from my Mid 2015 Macbook Pro fit in a PCIe adapter card which I want to use in a Mac Pro 5,1? I read that the Apple slot on the MBP is proprietary which usually means no. But here is the card I am considering: '''https://tinyurl.com/y3mrr8tt'''

If not that card, can you recommend one?

Art Vandelay -

would a Samsung 970 PRO 1TB (MZ-V7p1T0BW) fit in ? ''I got the adaptor for the SSD. or what would the best SSD be?

I would know isn’t it have a chance will let the computer can not wake again after sleep mode? ( after reboot will to be normal ) after install the new SSD?

Dante Suen -

It's really helpful

Jeet singh

Jeet singh -

Hi. Is this for an A1502? My first MacBook repair but I’m sure I can do this. I see you sell the tools, ur do you sell the Retina display also? I believe it is the entire top half of laptops including g case.

Thanks.

Todd

Todd Taylor -

Hi Todd—The A1502 designation covers models from Late 2013 - Early 2015. You might want to start over here, select your specific model, and then click through to the appropriate guide. We do stock complete displays for most models. Good luck!

Jeff Suovanen -

SSD that works with this as a replacement: OWC Aura Pro X2, you can get it all the up to 2TB.

Stephen Agnew -

Anyone know where I could get that 2.9mm T5 screw?

Adam Hall -

“Finally, we strongly recommend installing macOS 10.13 High Sierra (or a later macOS)”

Does this mean we need a newer or older version than 10.13? I just did all this and upgraded to Catalina beforehand but now have a black screen and a circle with a line across. Do you know why this is the case?

Joaquin Beltran -

Sorry Joaquin, that is a confusing sentence! What we mean is “10.13 High Sierra or a newer version of macOS.” So yes, that includes Catalina!

The black screen you’re seeing means that the computer can’t find an operating system on your SSD. Did you already install the new SSD? If you did, then you can follow this Internet Recovery guide to install MacOS to the new drive.

Taylor Dixon -

Dear Sir.

I tried to install a WD blue M2.2280 1TB ssd M2.2280 on mac book pro 15” mid 2015 using a M2 to mac book 2013-2017 adapter

but it does not work. Inserted the new ssd the monitor does not turn on. so I restored the old ssd.

Do you have a solution?

best regards

lucio

Lucio Vittori -

Is there an SSD to SATA adaptor so that the original Apple SSD may be repurposed / used in a “regular” computer?

felix -

If you use the Trancend replacement ssd ( https://amzn.to/2OkTZhj ) it comes with an adapter where you can slide the old ssd (is a bit more expensive with the adapter ( or you can find a cheaper one on eBay)

OWC has the same adapter but I see that is not sold on the iFixit store

Oros -

Vous dites : “Avant de commencer, si possible sauvegardez votre SSD déjà installé. Puis, familiarisez-vous avec la récupération par internet ou créez un disque externe amorçable pour que vous soyez prêts à installer macOS sur votre nouveau disque et migrer vos données vers le nouveau SSD.”

Et si je ne souhaite pas réccupérer mes donées ? Dois-je absolument avoir un disque d’amorçage ?

aaa -

You can install an NVMe M2.2280 SSD into this MacBookPro11,5 with this Sintech adapter (Amazon link, which also lists compatible SSDs); I’ve got 4 units installed with the 970EVO 2TB chugging along happily for over a year now. Sintech has a newer, smaller adapter that I’ve ordered; will post the results once I’ve tested it.

Just make sure you’ve already updated to least High Sierra 10.13 (preferably Mojave 10.14) on the original SSD to install the NVMe drivers.

Shazz Mahfudz -

I purchase an OWC Aura Pro X2 SSD to replace existing SSD in Macbook mid-2015 w/ Retina running Catalina. When i swap the drive out and boot into internet recover the drive isn’t detected. What am i doing wrong?

Yaniv Schiff -

You are probably booted into the Mac OS that came with your Mac. Try Option-Command-R which should boot into Internet Recovery of the latest compatible version.

mdgm -

I just got my MacBook 15’ 2015! I want to upgrade it to make it the most powerful upgrade! Any recommendations! please help!!

Edward Rebollar -

Bonjour, ce tutoriel traite du remplacement du SSD pour ce type de MacBook, le meilleur emplacement pour ce genre de question est le forum, de plus, vous n’obtiendrez pas une versions très puissante (aux critères actuels) de votre machine en changeant le SSD. Les Macs étant peu modifiable, je ne peux que vous conseiller de commencer par voire si la puissance actuelle de votre machine ne vous suffit pas pour un usage quotidien…

Cajuteq -

Hi guys I have ;

MacBook Pro (Retina, 15-inch, Mid 2015) 2.2 GHz Quad-Core Intel Core i7 could I up grade to a 1 Tb SSD ?

Edward STEVENS -

Yes you can but be careful to choose a compatible SSD, if you need help on this, please ask on the forum

Cajuteq -

Que tipo de adaptador sé requiere para que funcione en la MAC la SSD?, lo intente con uno que compre en amazon (https://www.amazon.com.mx/gp/product/B08...) para una SSD M2. ADATA SU650 y ni funcionó. La mac nunca reconoció el SSD

Eduardo -

Can I put the following SSD into the MacBook Pro (Retina, 15-inch, Mid 2015) with an adapter or is it too long then?

Intel 660p - Retail (1000GB, M.2 2280)?

Benjamin Martin -

hola… una consulta. tengo la macbook pro C02QM2SMG8WN . quiero cambiarle el disco y me serviría este que ofrecen en esta pagina. OWC Aura Pro X2 SSD https://es.ifixit.com/Tienda/Mac/OWC-Aur... . lo que no veo es el conector que mencionan se precisa como adaptador. también quiero consultarles si me puede servir este 970 EVO Plus NVMe M.2 SSD 1TB https://www.samsung.com/us/computing/mem... . Me pueden decir si este disco samsung me sirve y con qué adaptador? gracias

Juan Gallardo -

Would it be possible to use the NEW SSD in an external enclosure and migrate everything to it, First? Then install it into the laptop and place the factory SSD in the enclosure…? If possible, anything special I would need to do to make the OWC ‘bootable’ once placed into the laptop?

Christopher Ballard -

Hello, I have a MacBook Pro (Retina, 15-inch, Mid 2015) with a 500GB APPLE SSD SM0512G does it has a performance benefit to upgrade the SSD? Or only more storage? Thanks

Willem van Isselmuden -

Are there any steps I can do if I don’t have Mac OSX 13.0 or higher? My 2015 ssd crashed with Catalina on there which doesn’t support the newer drives. Any way to update with a crashed harddrive, or after having installed a new 1TB OWC drive? The OS on an external harddrive shows up when I boot it, but the new ssd doesn’t show up.

Thanks!

Daniel Worlock -

Catalina (10.15) is newer than High Sierra (10.13) so if Catalina was working with your old drive before it failed you should be good to go. If you were running an older Mac OS you may need to borrow or buy a second handle Apple OEM drive even a 128GB one would do to get the Boot ROM updated. You should install the latest Mojave/Catalina Security Update or Big Sur update to get a Boot ROM fix that fixes hibernation issues with 3rd party SSDs.

mdgm -

The SSD upgrade should follow the same method as the Late 2013 15” Retina model. The OWC Drives are more convenient because it is already using the same interface as the standard Apple drives. There are now multiple adapters available to install a standard NVMe SSD into the drive bay. Please note that for MacOS re-Installation, The internet Recovery installation method is not usable with these drive adapters but multiple drive clone software are available commercially. I am using one of the adapters with a Crucial 1TB NVMe SSD with my Late 2013 model. The current highest capacity NVMe SSDs are up to 8TB if you are willing to make the investment.

blackxeon -

Can I upgrade a 2015 a1398?

Greygoose II -

I’ve been trying to install an SSD into my MacBook Pro (Retina, 15-inch, Mid 2015). I ordered the hard drive that is recommended above. It doens’t work my computer will not recognize it. I just wasted $330.00! I expected better than this form iFix it. You just lost a supporter.

[deleted] -

@doc_skull Whining about it isn’t going to help your situation. This is not iFixit’s fault. You, and you alone are responsible for the operability of your machine and the risks that come associated with repairing or upgrading it whether that is under the advisement of a third party (i.e. iFixit) or against the advisement of a first party (i.e. Apple). iFixit has several disclaimers around the site informing you of this fact. If you’re having a hard time troubleshooting, it would be good practice in the future to include the model information of your machine and the hardware you are trying to install into it so that people in the community can use that information to help provide you with assistance where possible, again at your own risk. The methods and products used in this guide have been known to work successfully for most other users performing this upgrade. The likely culprit here is user error, or maybe even a faulty product- which a manufacturer’s warranty would likely cover- no money wasted there.

Pier DaPonte -

@pierdaponte I can’t tell if you are trying to insult me or provide me with useful information. Both perhaps? It seems like you feel the need to defend or correct something here? I am not sure why someone leaving feedback in a comment section designed for such purposes triggered you. If you have pointers on how I can get this to work then please send them my way. I stated what my computer model is and the hardware purchased is the hardware suggested in this article and sold by the site. If you don’t have a helpful suggestion then stop harassing me.

[deleted] -

I am not trying to insult you- though I can’t help if you feel that way. I’ve provided you with information as it pertains to the use of the site and the community features. Many in this section have provided a host of troubleshooting steps for their own problems and many may apply to you. You can do things like grab an external enclosure to check the validity of the disk, or try running first aid. I took issue with your comment of “I just wasted $330.00! I expected better than this form iFix it. You just lost a supporter.”, which comes off entitled and childish and implies that you are looking for someone to provide you an answer on a silver platter and don’t understand that this is a community and the guides and methods described here, once again, are performed at your own risk- meaning you have only yourself to blame and not iFixit if something goes wrong. Admittedly, I missed the model information when I skimmed your comment so I apologize for that. However, a single reply isn’t “harassment” as you claim.

Pier DaPonte -

If you are using Internet Recovery make sure that you are using at least High Sierra. Older Mac OS than High Sierra won’t see the SSD.

If you hold down Option-Command-R you should be presented with Internet Recovery for the latest compatible version of Mac OS for your Mac provided that you installed 10.12.4 or later at some point in the past.

mdgm -

Ive got a question. My MacBook logic board broke on me . If I put my old SSD in another MacBook, would it work or does it need to go with the original logic board? thx

Someone from Japan -

You shouldn’t have any problem using your old SSD in another computer, just follow the SSD replacement guide for whichever laptop you are installing it into.

You should connect the old SSD externally and transfer any important data onto a backup drive first. Then follow this guide to install a new operating system onto the old SSD.

Sam Omiotek -

So, if I go with the OWC 1G (IF123-133-3), and I have OS 10.13.6, will I be able to use Time Machine to restore? I have a boot drive made with Drive Genius. Thanks in advance

acm332 -

That should work. If not, use this guide to install a new operating system onto the old SSD, then use Time Machine to restore your data.

Sam Omiotek -

THIS MIGHT HELP SOME PEOPLE!! This is for everyone how has the problem that after installing the new ssd card and then when they are in internet recovery mode that you can’t get a internet connection and it goes back to the same page and wants you to choose a network again.

I bought the OWC Aura Pro X2 which is 960 gigabyte (1 terabyte) and had this problem, what I did was to buy a adapter so that I could use a ethernet cable as internet connection instead.

I bought Apples Thunderbolt-to-Gigabit Ethernet-adapter which solved the problem and got me through to the internet recovery menu with time machine backup, disk utility exc.

Now everything is working great. :)

anton_fest -

I put M2 SSDs into MacBook Pro’s with an adapter. Never had a problem. BUT you MIGHT need the original SSD back in for a firmware upgrade/update. Sometimes it only works with the original/Apple branded SSD.

Alex May -

I bought a Kingston PCIe NVMe M.2 and n NVMe compatible adapter. All fit well but the mac doesnt find the drive in recovery mode. Can somebody tell me if this drive should work?

ramón -

I just updated my Mid-2015 MacBook Pro to 2TB of internal storage and realizing the new 2021 MBP’s are out of my price range for a bit. So why not give this one a boost. It still works great otherwise but I was always running out of space on the original 500 gig internal drive.

I went with a Samsung NVMe 970 EVO Plus and using the proper interface adaptor it worked great and fit like it was made for the machine.

And while having such ample space is great, I think the bigger and unexpected boost came from this drive being WAY faster than the original drive. Before I did the swap, I ran some speed tests and was getting 1500 Mbps read and 300 Mbps writes. But with the new drive it’s more like 3,500 Mbps each way! The machine feels like a new machine even though it’s just a clone of the old one onto the new drive. I’m just blown away.

One note about the guide here. Where it tells you to peel back the tape to get to the battery connector, you only need to pull it back slightly. I tried taking the entire thing off.

Thomas Tomchak -

Did you have to update the firmware on the 970 EVOPlus? I understand the newer ones come with the latest firmware already.

Kelvin John -

Hi your useing samsung 970 plus can you tell me the make and where you got the adapter from to use on my mbp thanks mike

mike jones -

****It’s time for a novice question.****

So, I’m upgrading the SSD on a Retina mid-2015 MacBook Pro 2.2 GHz Quad-Core Intel Core i7. Am I correct in understanding that the difference between the two SSD’s listed by iFixit is that the $399 Samsung is a SATA drive, and the adapter that’s been mentioned is for the SATA? If not, I’m hoping someone could clarify. I just want to be sure the OWC Aura Pro X2 SSD I ordered wasn’t a mistake. I hope to hear back soon, and thanks!

Don Gilbert -

The OWC Aura drive you ordered is designed to fit Apple’s proprietary interface, and should work fine with your machine without the need for an adapter. Good luck with your repair!

Sam Omiotek -

Hallo, wissen Sie wo man so eine 2,9 mm T5 Torx Schraube (bei Schritt 6) einzeln kaufen kann? Meine ist nicht mehr auffindbar :(

Thea Rosenberg -

Very easy to do it, Nice tuto as usual

Ivan Corbet -

It really worked. After disconnecting the battery, I opened the Disk utility and it was there int internal SSD, but I had to erase it selecting MAC OS Journaled. Then it showed to reinstall. Using the Internet Recovery for the EMC2835 MacBook Pro 13”it selected the Monterey OS from Internet.Thanks for the tip here!

humberto -

Does anyone know how I can get data off this type of SSD? My USB to SATA is too large, and I’m struggling to find specs for the type of SSD pictured above…

claire.barnes -

SSD is really easy to replace (Samsung 970 EVO with Sinntech ssd nvme adapter)

Performances get a huge boost with a brand new disk + clean install

Mac User -

Hi, is this:

SAMSUNG 980 PRO SSD PCIe 4.0 NVMe Gen 4 M.2

compatible with macbook pro mid-2015?

Thank you!

MSaif -