Motorola Droid Turbo 2 Akku austauschen

Geschrieben von: Arthur Shi

Kommentare: 89

Schwierigkeitsgrad

Mittel

Schritte

Zeitaufwand

30 Minuten - 1 Stunde

Einleitung

Nutze diese Anleitung, um den defekten oder leeren Akku deines Motorola Droid Turbo 2 auszutauschen. Wenn dein Akku aufgebläht ist, dann treffe entsprechende Vorsichtsmaßnahmen.

Entlade aus Sicherheitsgründen den alten Akku auf unter 25%, bevor du dein Smartphone zerlegst. Dadurch verringerst du das Risiko, dass sich der Akku entzündet, wenn er während der Reperatur versehentlich perforiert oder beschädigt wird.

Werkzeuge

Ersatzteile

Schritt 1

Schalte dein Smartphone vor der Reparatur aus.
Setze ein SIM Auswurfwerkzeug, ein SIM Auswurfbit oder einfach eine aufgebogene Büroklammer in das kleine Loch am SIM Einschub ein.
Drücke es hinein, um den SIM Einschub herausspringen zu lassen.
Entferne den gesamten SIM Einschub vom Smartphone.

Schritt 2

Erwärme einen iOpener und lege ihn eine Minute lang auf die Oberkante des Smartphones auf.
Ein Haartrockner, ein Heißluftgebläse oder eine Warmhalteplatte können auch benutzt werden, achte aber darauf, dass das Gerät nicht überhitzt wird - das Display und der Akku können durch zu viel Hitze leicht beschädigt werden.

After you heat the Iopener, lay the shiny side on the phone. With all the warnings of how hot it could get, I handled it with oven mitts. It wasn’t until I struggled for some time trying to get the back of that I grabbed the Iopener with my bare hand and found the the shiny side was still hot, but the textured side was quite cool. Apparently it has some insulating properties.

Gary Holstein - 31/10/20

Schritt 3

Setze ein Plektrum in einem Winkel an die rückseitige Abdeckung an und schiebe es kräftig drunter.
Je nach Alter des Smartphones kann das ziemlich schwierig sein. Zusätzliches Erwärmen mit dem iOpener kann hilfreich sein. Du kannst sehr vorsichtig mit einem Metallspatel einen Spalt für das Plektrum aufhebeln.

Use a heat gun to loosen adhesive prior top using spudger

chris.reinert - 28/10/17

If the Phone has the nylon back, there is a plastic layer that the material is attached. be sure to get the plastic layer beneath the nylon.

bludyone - 21/08/20

Don’t be fixated on the top edge. On my phone there was more space at the bottom edge to get the picks in, which allowed an easier start than the top.

Kyle - 15/11/20

Schritt 4

Schiebe das Plektrum an der Oberkante des Geräts entlang und trenne die Klebeverbindung auf.
Löse die Bereiche weiter innen mit dem Plektrum, vermeide es aber in der Zone um die Kamerablende hindurchzuschneiden.

It took me over an hour to pry the back cover off the phone. Don't give up – it can be done! It takes some time, heat, and persistence to wedge the blue picks under the back. And not knowing what is under there can cause stress! Bottom line - don't be afraid to apply pressure to the pick to break the seal between the back and the metal edge, and then you can slide the pick in under the back cover without breaking any electronics. I did not notice the blue plastic prying tool until after I wrestled the back off – I think that would have helped with the final peeling off stage.

Thomas Johnson - 05/12/18

Schritt 5

Wiederhole das iOpener Verfahren (Aufwärmen und Auftrennen) für die übrigen drei Seiten.
Achte darauf, auch auch tiefer hinein zu schneiden, da die Rückabdeckung mit breiten Klebestreifen befestigt ist.

Schritt 6

Wenn du die Klebeverbindung aufgetrennt hast, kannst du die rückseitige Abdeckung langsam vom Rahmen ablösen.
Entferne die rückseitige Abdeckung.
Benutze beim Zusammenbau diese Anleitung zum Festkleben der Rückabdeckung, um die vorgestanzten Klebestreifen korrekt anzubringen.

Getting this back cover off with 4 little picks is nothing less than Fake News. The picks (and a halberd spudger) were good for cutting through adhesive on the outer edges, but a fair amount of heat and several plastic “playing cards” were needed to get to the adhesive holding down the cover on the middle of the device. Be VERY CAREFUL as you near the charging coil…2 little connectors near the bottom right could be easily severed. Take your time, use heat and patience.

Jeana Morales - 15/10/19

Schritt 7

Setze ein Plektrum unter die Gummiabdeckung des Blitzsteckers, heble sie hoch und entferne sie.
Um die Abdeckung wieder einzusetzen, musst du sie zuerst passend aufsetzen, und dann mit den Fingern nach vorne drücken, bis sie hineinpasst.

The two plastic covers do not fit snugly in place, so after putting them back in place, use small bits of electrical tape to secure them before installing a new adhesive back cover. I tested my phone thoroughly before the last step, so that I would not have to buy a new cover if something didn't work.

Bill Koonce - 17/03/17

Schritt 8

Heble mit der Spudgerspitze die Gummiabdeckung über dem Stecker der Ladespule hoch.
Um die Abdeckung wieder einzusetzen, musst du sie zuerst passend aufsetzen , drücke sie dann mit den Fingern nach vorne, bis sie passt.

Careful! The cover popped off and flew 8 feet! (Over 2 meters!)

Kenneth Lacewell - 26/01/19

Absolutely true. Mine popped off and shot across the room. I was lucky to be able to find it.

Gary Holstein - 31/10/20

Schritt 9

Heble den Stecker zum Blitz mit der Spudgerspitze hoch und löse ihn ab.
Um Press-Fit-Verbinder wie diesen hier wieder anzuschließen, musst du ihn erst sorgfältig ausrichten und auf einer Seite herunterdrücken, bis er einrastet. Wiederhole das Ganze für die andere Seite. Drücke nicht in der Mitte. Wenn der Stecker falsch ausgerichtet ist, können die Kontakte verbogen und dauerhaft beschädigt werden.

Schritt 10

Heble den Stecker zur drahtlosen Ladespule mit der Spudgerspitze hoch und löse ihn ab.

Schritt 11

Entferne folgende Torx T3 Schrauben, welche den Mittelrahmen befestigen:
Dreizehn schwarze 3,1 mm Schrauben
Vier silbernfarbene 4,3 mm Schrauben
Bit-Einsätze passen nicht immer 100-prozentig. Wenn ein T4 nicht ganz passt, probiere es mit einem T3.

My phone (purchased 12/2015) has only 2 silver screws top and bottom (4 total), and they're also T3, not Philips.

With a Torx screw this tiny, it pays to take time to make sure that the driver is well seated before turning it. This will eliminate stripped screws. Also, I loosened each screw first, and then removed them. Breaking them free before turning them also helps prevent stripping.

Bill Koonce - 17/03/17

eitherway its a T4 torx in my phone. Double checked my bit. T-4 same for all these screws

Raymond Lewis - 27/01/18

T4 in mine as well. Stripped out a T3 bit figuring this out.

Shane Kennington - 13/02/18

They were all T3’s in the one I am repairing. Must be different depending on where it is manufactured.

James Blaine - 20/06/18

I recommend placing your phone down on a flat surface and then you can put good pressure straight down to remove the screws.

Leif Thorson - 06/09/18

One of the small screws was stripped. I used a 1/8” drill to eliminate the head - very . The mid-plane came off, and I finished removing the screw with a small pair of needle-nose pliers.

Larry Peterson - 07/10/18

the phone I opened used a T4 bit as well

Josef Bosnyak - 01/02/19

The screws in my phone were both sizes. I had to use the T3 and T4. A few of the screws would not take either bit (I had to use a dremel tool to strip it slightly so the T4 would fit it). Luckily, I had some replacements.

Beth - 22/02/19

At first I thought my toolkit only came with a T5, which was too large. Then I found the T3 bit in a ziplock back with an alcohol swab. It worked, but it had some slack, so my screws may have been T4, but I didn’t have that option.

Brian Martin - 17/03/19

The device I’m fixing now is T4. Stripped 2 heads and had to drill them out. Wish this walkthrough had a note that some are different so I would have double checked before I stripped them out.

Matt Peacock -

Hi Matt,

Thanks for your feedback! So many people are having an issue with this—I’ve added a note to the step as you suggested.

Arthur Shi -

Schritt 12

Setze ein Plektrum in die Naht des Rahmens und verdrehe es leicht, so dass sich der Mittelrahmen vom Smartphone löst.

Schritt 13

Entferne den Mittelrahmen vom Smartphone.
Du kannst ein Klebeband über den seitlichen Tasten anbringen, damit sie während der Reparatur nicht herausfallen.
Wenn irgendwelche Tasten aus dem Mittelrahmen herausfallen, dann setze sie wie im Bild gezeigt wieder ein, bevor du den Mittelrahmen wieder einbaust.

The buttons will NOT "fall in" when reassembling, so it's important to remember to put them back. I found that putting them in the frame before replacing it is the only way. Check to see how they fit on the phone first, then drop them into their slots outside-in. The power button will fit only one way; the volume buttons should go in oriented as they fit best on the phone. Be sure to test them to make sure they click freely often! It's easier to readjust them before all those screws are back in.

Bill Koonce - 17/03/17

Going to make a small etch on the very bottom (as the phone is held portrait) of each button before beginning the project. A fine tip Sharpie might also work for some people.

Dan - 22/05/17

I have not done this yet but, try using a small bit of electrical tape to secure them to the mid-frame before removal

jerryj26 - 27/04/18

Yes, a small strip of tape on the mid frame to hold the buttons in place works great. Thanks for the idea. I simply put a piece over the buttons and onto the whole frame, then cut it carefully along the edge between the glass an mid frame when I separated the two piece. This held the buttons nicely in place and ready for reinstalling.

Rob Reynolds - 28/10/18

Be careful putting the mid-plane back on. The volume control innards were bent and straightening it back out took a lot of time - on phone #2.

Larry Peterson - 07/10/18

My contact wires got bent the first time I took a phone apart. I am pretty sure I bent them when I was prying the phone open (not while I was putting back together). Now I'm extra careful prying the phone open on the volume button side and it hasn't happened again.

Beth - 17/07/19

It sounds like people like the tape idea and it’s a helpful step, so I’ve added it into the guide step. Thanks for the comments!

Arthur Shi - 15/11/18

I tried taping the side buttons on but they slipped out anyway. Observe the photo to replace them in the proper orientation. It’s actually quite easy, and I’m not certain how effective taping them would ultimately be as it’s important to seat the slots over the tabs inside the body. You need to be an extraordinary taper to stick them in place such that they “presto!” drop in place when reinstalling the mainframe

Thomas Johnson - 05/12/18

I found that it helped a lot to put a screw in around the down volume button, when reassembling, to prevent the buttons from falling out. That is after you had popped the mid frame and the phone together. I also agree with using the electrical tape to prevent the buttons from falling out.

Michelle Dailey - 11/01/19

Schritt 14

Entferne vorsichtig die schwarze Graphitschicht vom Smartphone.
Obwohl sie eigentlich für den Normalgebrauch nicht unbedingt nötig ist, kannst du diese Graphitschicht beim Zusammenbau dennoch wieder einkleben, wenn sie noch in gutem Zustand ist.

I found that the black tape was like a bag--as I pulled it off, it filled with air, and the air did not escape when I put it back. I used the knife to make a small hole to let the trapped air escape.

Bill Koonce - 17/03/17

I’m pretty OCD and wanted to reuse the plastic bag, but when I pulled if off it got all twisted up, so I just tossed it. The instructions are correct that it is not necessary for normal operation - my phone worked just fine without it.

Thomas Johnson - 05/12/18

I found that pulling the bag off from the battery bottom corner worked best and didnt rip the bag

Josef Bosnyak - 01/02/19

Definitely pull it off from the bottom corner of the battery. That work so much better. It came off mostly intact and I stuck it to a piece of wax paper till I needed it.

Beth - 22/02/19

What exactly is the graphite for?

Felix Robinson - 15/06/19

Hi Felix,

Graphite layers like these are excellent heat conductors and are often part of the phone’s cooling solution. Without it, your phone may run warmer, but should be OK.

Arthur Shi - 17/06/19

Pulling from the bottom corner worked perfectly. Layer came off intact and I was able to re-use.

Lisa Hiler - 18/12/19

I think a new graphite layer should have been included in the kit. Virtually impossible to remove intact.

James Monk - 02/05/20

If you go slow, and keep you fingers as close to the phone as possible, it comes off easily. Don’t just work a corner loose and keep pulling from there. If you do the more you get pulled loose, the more it can stretch. Pull up a quarter inch or so an slide your fingers down and do it again. When you done the plastic won’t be stretched and it still has enough sticky to reuse it.

Gary Holstein - 31/10/20

Schritt 15

Entferne die zwei 4,2 mm T3 Torx Schrauben, welche die Metallhalterung des Akkus befestigen.
Entferne die Metallhalterung.

Mine were T3’s on the metal bracket. It’s gotta be a manufacturing thing. So weird

James Blaine - 20/06/18

My phone had odd, terrible screws. Some of them were half way between a T3 and T4

Beth - 22/02/19

Schritt 16

Heble den Akkustecker mit einem Spudger hoch und trenne ihn ab.

If you're going to use metallic tweezers, make sure not to touch any part of the connector when removing. I momentarily shorted a connection (sparks).

Michael Keyser - 26/11/17

Also when installing new battery, note battery does not fill up entire space so there is some discretion on positioning. In reference to above photo, make sure new battery is shifted slightly to right (towards top of phone) so as to not lay on top of circuit board below (left in photo). After reassembling mine the phone speaker would not work, so I took it apart again and figured out the battery connector harness was partially on top of the circuit board and interfering with needed electrical contact between the mid-frame and the circuit board. Easily fixed by adjusting battery position. Fortunately I had tested phone operation BEFORE reattaching back cover so this was an easy fix.

TERRY COSS - 05/11/18

Schritt 17

Setze ein Plektrum unter die lange Kante des Akkus auf der anderen Seite der Hauptplatine ein.
Setze ein zweites Plektrum an der gleichen Kante in der Nähe des ersten Plektrums ein.

This may seem silly, but I’d suggest inking an X on the old battery and setting it aside a good distance from your project when you remove it so you don’t get it mixed up with the new battery!

Thomas Johnson - 05/12/18

Good idea. I always do that.

Beth - 22/02/19

Schritt 18

Drücke fest und gleichmäßig auf die beiden Plektren, so dass sich der Akku vom Rahmen löst.
Wenn sich der Akku vom Rahmen ablöst, dann kannst du die beiden Plektren nach innen schieben, wobei du immer weiter nach oben hebelst.
Der Akku ist mit starkem doppelseitigem Klebeband am Rahmen befestigt. Um die Klebeverbindung zu schwächen, kannst du ein wenig hochkonzentrierten (90% oder mehr) Isopropylalkohol unter den Akku geben.
Verforme oder beschädige den Akku nicht, sonst können gefährliche Chemikalien austreten oder der Akku kann Feuer fangen.

My replacement battery came with the ribbon cable facing the wrong direction. I had to fold the black part over so the connector was oriented properly.

Bill Koonce - 17/03/17

They did that on purpose as reports of ripped battery ribbon cables were coming in, folding the "excess" solves that torsion!

Dan Lo Fat - 05/06/17

This step was one of the most difficult. The adhesive beneath the battery required extremely careful prying to slowly loosen it up. Lithium batteries are spooky enough as it is, without bending them for removal. Tread carefully on this step.

surfdaworld - 07/10/17

If its glued down like iphones are then use a length of dental floss or 2 to make it stronger. Loop it behind the battery then use it to saw through the glue.

Anthony shackman - 13/11/17

That's really smart.

Michael Keyser - 26/11/17

I don’t think I could have gotten dental floss behind my battery due to all of the tape. I just pried up on the side shown in the picture and worked the tool towards the center and up and down the side. I was afraid to break something trying to pry from the opposite side.

Tim Borow - 31/12/17

The poly bag will stretch out if you go too hard too fast, I actually punctured the outer bag and caught a whiff of super strong solvent, shat myself, and finished removing the bag over the concrete of my empty garage. No fire tho, thankfully. Use a credit cardto seperate the glue from the bag without having to pull it up so far.

Jake B - 09/02/18

I used Isopropyl Alcohol (99%) and small bottle with needle to get under the edges of battery. Once I did the battery came off without any problems.

James Blaine - 20/06/18

I was so scared of puncturing and bending the battery. I slid a guitar pick under one edge (long side) and then wiggled a grocery store loyalty card under the battery. I took my time and it came out intact with no bending.

Beth - 22/02/19

Thanks for the dental floss and loyalty card tips. I slid a pick under to slightly lift then battery then used the loyalty card for the majority of the adhesive separation. Dental floss was the final step to move around the corners closest to the circuit board and wires.

Lisa Hiler - 18/12/19

Schritt 19

Entferne den Akku.
Verwende niemals einen verformten oder beschädigten Akku. Tausche ihn immer aus.
Setze einen neuen Akku so ein, dass die Kabelausgänge unten an der Seite der Hauptplatine sind.
Das Ausrichten des Akkus ist einfacher, wenn du ihn vor dem Befestigen zeitweise anschließt. Trenne den Akku wieder ab, bevor du mit dem Zusammenbau fortfährst.
Beseitige alle Klebstoffreste, welche verhindern könnten, dass der Akku gut am Rahmen anliegt. Benutze die Klebestreifen, welche dem Akkuset beiliegen, oder verwende etwas doppelseitiges Klebeband, um den Akku wieder am Rahmen festzukleben.

question for all yours guys after replacing your battery, is your phone charging fast like suppose to be?

Antoine Perez - 17/10/18

After replacing the battery, I charged my phone to 100% on an original Motorola charger (powered off, slow charge, overnight). I ran the battery all the way down (it lasted all day with heavy use), then charged it overnight again (powered off, original charger). After that, I tried to charge it with my fast charger and it will not recognize it at all. I also noticed when plugging it into the original charger, while powered on, it says it's charging by USB - that's trickle charging. I'm going to try wiping the cache to see if that helps.

https://forum.xda-developers.com/droid-t...

I have a Droid Turbo that I fast-charged for years without compromising the battery (I'm using it as a backup now and the battery is still fine).

Beth - 11/04/19

@Antoine Perez: I have never fast-charged any of my lithium-powered devices, as it tends to shorten battery life. All I can tell you is that the genuine LG Chem battery that I used as a replacement seems to be behaving exactly like the original. Source:

https://www.mobiledefenders.com/battery-...

Vulcan Tourist - 17/10/18

replaced battery, while doing initial recharge the phone buzzes and the battery icon comes on then goes back to the charge meter, Is this normal on a new battery?….

67oechsner67 - 28/10/19

I think this normally happens when your phone is charging but turned off.

Arthur Shi - 29/10/19

Abschluss

Befolge diese Anweisungen in umgekehrter Reihenfolge, um das Gerät wieder zusammenzusetzen.

Entsorge deinen Elektromüll fachgerecht.

War die Reparatur nicht so erfolgreich, wie erhofft? Schau mal bei der Motorola Moto Droid Turbo 2 Answers Community nach. Da findest du möglicherweise Hilfe (in Englisch).

Tinte & Feder

Arthur Shi

Mitglied seit: 03/01/18

218614 Reputation

30 Kommentare

Despite being careful, I lost one screw that seemingly disappeared as I tried to place it back. Even a rare earth magnet didn't find it. It would be nice to have spare screws.

Bill Koonce - 17/03/17

From whom would get those?

Dan Lo Fat - 05/06/17

Your neighbors Turbo 2…it would've up to you whether or not to tell the neighbors that you got them, lol. Everyone seems to have a junk phone around, open it up and find the closest matching one….. I be yet to find anyone that sells spare phone

Jack Gaites - 15/06/18

Replaced the battery, but now the display is pixelated on the right side. Any ideas? Need help ASAP.

Cameron Barringer - 23/06/17

The only thing that got me hung up on this was the volume button reassembly. I can't seem to get the volume button to work properly again.

Richard Drawdy - 01/09/17

Guide worked perfectly to replace the battery, but now my external speaker is not functioning. Opened it back up to test all connections and tested speaker also. Everything tests fine, but no external audio. Happy to have my battery life back, but very frustrated to lose audio.

surfdaworld - 07/10/17

I have the same problem with speakers not working. Did you find a fix?

james - 24/11/17

Same result. Any fix for speaker not working?

james - 24/11/17

Had the same problem. Found some of the tape from the new battery was keeping the loudspeaker from connecting to the motherboard. Ended up reinstalling the new battery higher in the battery compartment. After the battery was reinstalled, I removed the battery from the midframe and pushed it against the connector with the power on and music playing to test if I was getting sound. Once I was sure sound was playing, I reinstalled the midframe while pushing hard on the area with the speaker, and installed the screws closest to the speaker first. Works now.

dedkight - 09/02/19

I had to use a T3 driver for my screws. Re. the volume and power buttons, I placed mine into their slots and had them sticking out approx what they’d be with the phone assembled. Note: each button has a tiny notch on one end, the flat end that fits into the phone. The notches in each button should be placed so the notches face each other. Before installing the screws, test the buttons to see if they feel right. I bought from Harbor Freight a set of jewelers eye pieces with a variety of powers. I found the 10x power to be very helpful when re-seating the connections properly. Turn on the phone to be sure you have power and sound before finishing up with the back cover. I purchased a new back OEM back cover with adhesive on it. I cleaned all the old adhesive off the phone parts. Then wiped with alcohol just prior to installing the cover. I warmed up the inside of the phone and the new back cover with a hair dryer just a bit before placing it back onto the phone.

Puttputtinpup Isuzu - 14/05/18

I bought 3 android turbo 2 phones. one for myself, my wife and my son. The battery failed for my son first after 18 months, then my wife after 24 months and then for me after about 26 months. I don’t believe this is just coincidence. Just like VW corporation was dishonest about emissions and Apple was dishonest about their batteries, I believe Motorola has been dishonest and a class action suit should be filed against them also. I have a Tablet that I have owned for close to 8 years now. I have never replaced the battery in it and It still holds a charge for a whole day. My android Turbo 2 phone can stay on the charger all night, show a 100% charge, I can bring it up stairs, set it down for 5 minutes and then go back to use and the screen will go black on it the moment that I try to use it. Please contact me if you would also like to start a class action suit against Motorola. The corporations need to be honest. My e-mail is gjchapman1526@gmail.com

gjchapman1526 - 24/07/18

Hi we also had 3 turbo 2s. My first one had to be replaced within 6 mo. Now my 2nd ones port went bad & have to charge on a pad. But it won't do anything but go to dead battery screen. Both my husband & daughter's have been replaced but I have no warrenty left on mine. These are junk. I'm so mad . It showed a charge, but now goes from menu to dead battery. If you get around to a class action suit count me in. Chris thanks

Chris

gallionz53@gmail.com

cgallion - 30/07/18

not thrilled to do this, but my phone is slow, and super slow when turbo charging….AND, when I get down to like 35% battery and try to open an app or something else that’s strenuous, screen goes blank and dies. I plug it in, and it says charging at 35% (or whatever it died at).

Ryan Corneliusen - 27/07/18

I think some of these posters aren’t being very careful when prying off the plastic backing. It is very common to easily damage this stuff if you aren’t using a some sort of hot plate, or a pro with a heat gun. There are also small heat bags that your able to toss in the microwave.

otherworldhunter - 14/08/18

Mine too. Shuts down at 29%. Start day at 100%. I'm at 60% in 3 hours, 55% in 4.5 hours, and then shut down at 6.25 hours. Older phones were so much easier to change battery yourself.

Lance Wong - 29/10/18

The guide has been revised! Sorry for all the confusion!

Arthur Shi - 04/09/18

After replacing battery, the left half of the screen is grey so I cant see the icons, but it workks when i press in that area. Rechecked and reseated motherboard connections, no fix. Has anyone run into this and found solutions?. It's not really useable this way. Thanks

Andy - 30/10/18

My phone quite definitely uses T3 Torx screws. Either Motorola switched to different screws in different production runs or others are using the wrong drivers.

Vulcan Tourist - 31/10/18

Thank you sooooooo much, it worked like a charm for me. I’m feeling so happy!

vfontanela - 21/11/18

Success! All T3 screws.

The power button felt as though it would not depress as I reassembled. I pulled the mid-frame apart once more and found that the power button had interfered with its flex cable upon assembly and pushed it out of position. What seemed to work best for me was to have the power button protruding out of the case slightly more than it would be normally. Then carefully install the mid-frame button side first, the power button should draw itself in as you snap the mid-frame into place, and ensure proper operation before closing up the device.

For those that lost external audio. I experienced this as well and found a solution to my problem. With the mid-frame removed, there are two very small gold connectors for the external speaker. Look at the mid-frame speaker contacts and find where they make contact with the board. These gold pins may not be making solid contact. Carefully bend them upward VERY slightly. Re-test, bend a bit more if needed, and ensure it works before completing assembly.

matarazz - 04/12/18

I had a lot of trouble with the pre-cut adhesive for the back cover. When I tried to peel the lining off of one side, it came off of both sides and tangled. Is there a trick to applying it?

Kenneth Lacewell - 29/01/19

Hey Kenneth,

Sorry to hear that! I’ll update the guide soon to include some adhesive application steps.

Arthur Shi - 31/01/19

Here is a guide to properly apply the pre-cut adhesive.

Motorola Droid Turbo 2 Rear Cover Adhesive Guide

Arthur Shi - 04/02/19

Tried to unscrew a T3 with a T4 screwdriver before I knew what I was doing…. Kit came with a T4 and T5 screw bit, no T3. Screw is stripped, and now I can’t even use an actual T3 screwdriver. Is there a way to remedy this?

Zachary Kim - 11/02/19

Hey Zachary,

I’m really sorry to hear that! I’ve forwarded your comment to customer service. Meanwhile, you can try some stripped screw removal methods shown here:

Wie man eine rundgedrehte Schraube entfernt

Which screw did you strip? If it is a frame one in Step 11, you can as last resort carefully cut around it. The remaining working screws should hold the frame in place.

Arthur Shi - 12/02/19

Amazingly, this project went just fine. After heating up the iopener twice to get it really hot, I was able to get the back off, and everything else went swimmingly. Almost couldn’t believe it when everything worked when I was done. And now instead of losing 10% battery every 15 minutes, I am on track to get more than a day from a single charge.

Brian Martin - 17/03/19

Worked great, thank you. I used the cardboard parts trays to hold and organise the screws while performing the work. Testing the phone before gluing the back cover on is helpful if troubleshooting is required. I used extra alcohol wipes to help clean off old adhesive. I would recommend having extra available before starting the work. A head mounted magnifier is not required but a really good idea for old guys like myself who cant see the small stuff as well as we once did. Work in a realy well lit space. I do these tiny things on an old cutting board in the kitchen. The sunlight is much better than my workbench lighting. Overall, I found the quality of the parts, bundled tool kit and instructions provided a better experience than almost any professional ‘engineering change order’ of repair kit that I have encountered. Thank you!

David Pries - 14/07/19

Mine will not turn on at all

Teffany Stipe - 14/03/20

I have no complaints here, the guide had ever necessary step, good photos and very concise explanations. The toolkit had every necessary tool and then some. I definitely took my time with this, I couldn’t afford to ruin this phone. I took about 30 minutes just taking the back off, but once that was done, everything else was just follow the steps.

I would offer one suggestion to the guide: the kit comes with a big piece of double sided tape with a lot of cut outs in it, meant to be what “glues” the back cover back on as your last step. I stupidly took both sides off the tape first, and then tried to put it on. It ended up a giant wad of useless tape sticking to itself.

Strip the protective plastic off *one side* of the tape first and stick it onto the phone, THEN peel off the other side.

Other than that everything went well. Screen is fine, sound still works, cameras work, buttons (pain in the butt to put back in) work. I have a usable phone again :D

I can’t stress this enough: TAKE YOUR TIME and you’ll be aight.

Paul W Tenny - 07/07/20

For what it’s worth, you’re better off just buying another phone, preferably one that doesn’t come with a defective battery.

Gone Forgood - 16/02/21