Einleitung

Das Moto G7 ist mit einem 3000 mAh Lithium-Ionen-Akku ausgestattet. Wenn der Akku altersschwach geworden ist und seine Ladung rasch verliert, muss er eventuell ausgetauscht werden. Diese Anleitung zeigt, wie das geht.

Das gezeigte Modell ist ein XT1962-1, es sollte aber auch für die Modelle XT1962-4 und XT1962-5 funktionieren.

Vor der Reparatur muss das Gerät ausgeschaltet sein, Ladegerät, Kopfhörer usw. müssen abgetrennt sein. Halte die nötigen Werkzeuge und einen neuen Akku bereit.

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    • Benutze iFixit Öffnungswerkzeuge, um das Display sorgfältig vom Rest des Geräts zu lösen.

    • Versuche dich zunächst auf die Ecken zu konzentrieren, dadurch hast du es leichter die Plektren zwischen den Bildschirm und den Rahmen zu bekommen.

    • Es ist zudem empfehlenswert, das Gerät zunächst mit einem iOpener oder einem Heißluftfön zu erhitzen, um den Kleber weich zu machen.

    • Die Displayeinheit besteht aus Glas, sei also vorsichtig mit Glassplittern und Sprüngen im Glas, wenn du das Display anhebst.

    I just destroyed my screen by dividing it in two parts. You have to be extra careful to dig deep enough in the first step, so you lift the entire screen unit!

    Michael -

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    • Entferne alle Glas- und Klebereste um die Kanten herum mit dem Spudger.

    • Das Glas ist schwarz und auf den Kanten des Gerätes teilweise nur schwer zu sehen, pass daher auf deine Hände auf.

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    • Entferne drei 2,7 mm T3 Torx Schrauben von der Metallblende rechts vom Akku.

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    • Benutze einen Spudger, um vorsichtig die Metallblende zu entfernen, die mit den Schrauben befestigt war.

    • Eine weitere Metallblende ist unter der ersten versteckt. Entferne auch diese vorsichtig mit dem Spudger.

    This would also be a good place to disconnect the battery connector, which is right under the display connector.

    Daniel Kim -

    At this point, one could remove the battery. I don't see why the remaining steps are necessary.

    Kimball -

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    • Entferne die sechs 2,7 mm Torx T3 Schrauben vob der Metallplatte oberhalb des Akkus.

    • Zwänge einen Spudger zwischen den SD-Einschub und die Platte. Heble die Platte dann mit sanfter Gewalt hoch.

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    • Setze einen Spudger unter die rechte Seite des Steckers und trenne ihn ab.

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    • Trenne die beiden schwarzen und weißen Stecker links und rechts von der Kamera mit einem Spudger ab.

    • Entferne die Kamera vom Smartphone.

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    • Entferne den SIM-Karteneinschub mit einem geeigneten Werkzeug.

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    • Heble den Stecker des Fingerabdrucksensors mit dem Spudger hoch und löse ihn von der Hauptplatine ab.

    The circled part is not the connector, it’s the cable. The connector is just above what the picture shows.

    Rich Kosiba -

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    • Entferne die vier 2,3 mm Torx T3 Schrauben an der unteren und rechten Seite des Smartphones.

    Don’t forget to disconnect the ribbon cable above the screw second from the right!

    Daniel Kim -

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    • Setze den Spudger oberhalb des Akkus unter den Akku ein.

    • Heble die Hauptplatine behutsam aus dem Smartphone heraus.

    The microphone/speaker holds the motherboard in. There are no directions here to remove it. It’s still attached in Step 4 but gone in Step 5.

    1. In the lower left corner of the phone, there are three black T5 screws that need to be removed.

    2. Use your spudger to lift it out of the phone. There are no cables to detach. It has two contacts that press against the motherboard.

    3. There is a small white piece of plastic that sits at the edge of the motherboard. The part we just removed holds it in so there should be nothing attaching it to the phone now. Remove it.

    (Note: Step 8 of the guide for replacing the motherboard in this phone explains this step.)

    Rich Kosiba -

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    • Setze einen Spudger unter die Oberkante des Akkus ein und heble ihn vorsichtig hoch.

    • Wenn es nicht leicht geht, kannst du den Akku von der Rückseite mit einem iOpener erwärmen, damit der Kleber am Akku weich wird.

    • Benutze bei diesem Schritt kein Metallwerkzeug, damit der Akku nicht beschädigt wird, er könnte dann in Brand geraten.

Abschluss

Um dein Gerät wieder zusammenbauen, folge den Schritten in umgekehrter Reihenfolge.

Saba Jafroodi

Mitglied seit: 04/02/20

216 Reputation

16 Kommentare

I don’t know what phone you are replacing a battery on here, but it looks nothing like my Motorola G7, which has a JK50 battery in it. The JK50 is NOT interchangeable with the JG30 you have pictured here and available to order.

Jeanette Carey -

The Moto G7 has many variations, including the G7 Play and the G7 Power, which is the model that takes the JK50. These instructions are for the plain vanilla G7.

Jim Grybowski -

This is a careless incomplete guide. It skips crucial steps, like removing the speaker subassembly (which the photos clearly show was done but not even mentioned), the buttons connector, and last but not least the battery connector itself. I also have wound up with two mystery rubberized parts which fell out at two separate points in disassembly, which are also never mentioned and which I will now have to black-box to figure out where they came from.

Vulcan Tourist -

It also glosses over the reassembly, omitting it entirely in fact, thus failing to remind the reader, for instance, not to overlook the fingerprint reader’s connector when reinserting the motherboard and paying heed of the several tabs - and rubber parts which must be considered when reattaching that metal shield over the camera.

Vulcan Tourist -

Also not mentioned is any suggestion how to replace the original rubberized adhesive “gasket” that attaches the front glass, which is supposed to provide some waterproofness as well as adhesion. In my instance that was compromised before I even started: the battery inflated with gas and bowed the glass front outward. Thank goodness Corning has chosen to evolve Gorilla Glass to be more flexible rather than more scratch-resistant and more brittle, otherwise I’d have had a cracked front. (That battery inflation is now the second occurrence in a second Motorola phone; I am officially spooked of Motorola phones now.)

Vulcan Tourist -

@vulcantourist

Yep, about an hour ago my battery and screen just inflated & bowed as well. Should I open it now and disconnect or is it safe to wait till replacement? What adhesive is needed to re apply the screen?

seededcrown -

@seededcrown:

I’m uncertain whether I can obtain a 3rd party replacement for the screen’s gasket, or whether I’m expected to just use some form of gel adhesive. I really don’t want to do the latter, it’s inferior! Since I can’t commit to anything permanent, I’ve literally Scotch-taped the screen for now. :-/

The OLED display began suffering horribly from burn-in less than a year into ownership. That’s a bonus in addition to the battery near-exploding. I’d replace it with a non-Motorola 5G phone, but there’s no money at all to do it.

If I find a replacement for the gasket or conceive another solution, I’ll try to share my decision here. Please do the same if you find something first. If your degree of bowing is substantial already, I’d rush to get a new battery and install it ASAP, before the existing battery gets worse! I bought my battery from Amazon; I’d share a link, but I’m uncertain if that’s encouraged. I’m sure there are plenty of acceptable alternatives. Hopefully you get to avoid duct tape.

Vulcan Tourist -

How have you progressed with fixing your phone?

Vulcan Tourist -

This is apparently how you fix the display and front glass back in place: https://www.amazon.com/s?k=2mm+adhesive+.... It’s very narrow 2mm adhesive tape made for the purpose. I’m unsure whether it’s as effective at sealing out water as the original, but it’s not like we have a choice (aside from buying new phones).

Vulcan Tourist -

Definitely missing a few steps, such as removing the speaker and a little white/red plastic thing, detaching several of the small connectors, and reassembly (especially re-connecting those little connectors).

Stefan Lasiewski -

Inaccurate and misleading. Opening the case was the most difficult step - and - related to it, closing the case did not work. Unlike other phones that just click back the Moto G7 requires an adhesive to stay shut. The adhesive made it very difficult to open and without it, the phone stays partially open. The battery too is held in place with that same tight adhesive making it impossible to remove without bending the battery and risk damaging neighboring structures. I would not recommend replacing the battery on a Moto G7!

Jerry -

I tried one of the many adhesive 1mm tapes offered via Amazon, but it overstated its adhesive properties and it was insufficient to the task: ever since the battery replacement I've been having to repeatedly press down the front glass when it begins to bow itself loose. Recently I finally decided it was time to rectify that and bought some "B-7000" adhesive fluid via Amazon. The plastic tube has a syringe-needle-like applicator tip which should make it rather easy to apply it to the inner frame edge and hopefully reseal it finally.

Regarding the battery, yes, it's secured with very strong adhesive tape, but you CAN remove the battery with considerable care. I did it. That was not one of my several complaints about this poorly scripted guide.

Vulcan Tourist -

Guide worked great for me. I only had to remove the three screws for the battery connector and the six screws for the camera, and removing the camera was only really needed to make space for tools to pry out the battery. Mine was glued in like a MFer, and the tip about applying heat once I got a bit of a gap really made all the difference, my wife's hair dryer on low heat was plenty good enough.

There are a mind numbing number of variations of the Moto G(7) getting the exact model number from settings is crucial to getting the correct battery and instructions.

Phone booted right up, battery initially was like 15% after it booted, charged up to 100% while we were relaxing in the hot tub, now its off the charger. Battery vendor says it needs a few "cycles" to get full capacity, we'll see.

The factory battery was swelled up enough that opening the case had pretty much already happened, so far $23 for a battery sure beats $250+ for a new phone, this one still meets all my wife's needs. No issues closing it, the case helps alleviate the need for replacing the glue.

Wally Bkg -

This explanation assumes you are accessing the phone through the front glass. This is not what you would do just to change the battery where you would remove the rear panel.

Gary Cole -

Try Loctite Go2. You then should be able to use a little heat if opening is needed in the future.

Jim Metz -

Loctite 480 might be a better choice.

Vulcan Tourist -